Canada’s Favorite German Budget Wines - Wine Diva Best Buys of 2010 List

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Nik Weis from Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Berlin

Canada’s Wine Diva just issued her annual TOP 100 Best Buy List; in fact, in 2010 the Top 100 Best Buy List comprises 110 wines. These 110 are wines from around the world, available in the Canadian market, and under CAN$20, that have scored at least 89/100 points the Wine Diva’ sister site WineScores.ca. These wines have been chosen because they represent value and quality.

The Wine Diva is Daenna Van Mulligen, a Vancouver based wine writer and publisher of WineDiva.ca and WineScores.ca. She has a weekly wine segment on Terry David Mulligan’s radio show The Tasting Room Radio and contributes to Taste Magazine and FoodVancouver.com as well as making regular appearances on City TV.

Five German wines are on the Wine Diva’s 2010 Top 100 Best Buy List. In the following, I have compiled Daenna Van Mulligen’s tasting notes of these wines and have supplemented them by my own observations on the winemaker.

St. Urbans-Hof Riesling, Mosel Germany, 2008

Wine Diva: This estate Riesling is a fragrant bouquet of meyer lemon, honey, spring blossoms and slate. Nicely weighted and lively on the palate with flavours of green apples, lemon drops and honey. It is off-dry but with nicely balanced acidity and has a sweet, juicy finish.

Lovely.

©copyright 2010 Daenna Van Mulligen, Wine Diva reviewed - July 26th, 2010

Christian G.E. Schiller: A rather young wine estate that was established about 50 years ago. It is now owned and run by the founder’s grandson, Nik Weis. In the 2010 Feinschmecker ranking, one of Germany’s 16 five star wine estates. Most of the elegant, fine and light wines are exported. 30 hectares.

www.urbanshof.com

Schloss Reinhartshausen Dry Riesling Rheingau Germany, 2008

Wine Diva: A mouth-watering Riesling, any time of the year and certainly one of my picks during the 2010 Vancouver Wine Festival!

Green apple peel and peach stone aromas, slate and brisk citric notes rounded out with honey and spring blossoms. The palate is crisp - zingy lemondrops, white fruit and steely minerality. This is not your grandmother's Riesling!

A great summer sipper, perfect with creamy potato salad or sushi, hollandaise and aioli sauces.

©copyright 2010 Daenna Van Mulligen, Wine Diva reviewed - April 23rd, 2010

Picture: Schloss Reinhartshausen

Christian G.E.Schiller: At the Castle’s present location stood in the 12th century the ancestral seat of the knights of Erbach. Princess Marianne of Prussia from the Royal House Oranien-Nassau bought the Castle and the estate in 1855. In 1957, Schloss Reinhartshausen – at the time still in Prussian ownership - was transformed into a hotel. Today, hundreds of years of tradition in craftsmanship combined with modern techniques of wine-making lay the foundation of Schloss Reinhartshausen high quality standards. 80 hectares.

www.schloss-reinharthausen.de

Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling, Rheinhessen Germany, 2009

Wine Diva: Alluring aromas of peach and tart green apples, citrus blossoms and slate with hints of tangerine. The plate is vibrant, sweet and tart with plenty of honey, minerality and crisp white fruit. It's off-dry but has lovely balance between sweetness and acidity with a silky texture, the finish is long and mouth-watering.

Pair with spicy, chilled noodles, sushi or rich, creamy dips.

Good value!

©copyright 2010 Daenna Van Mulligen, Wine Diva reviewed - April 27th, 2010

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Fritz Hasselbach from Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim

Christian G.E.Schiller: In 1890, the banker Carl Gunderloch purchased the Gunderloch manor house in Nackenheim in the Rhine valley. As the story goes, he used to trek from Gundersblum, his place of birth, to his bank in Mainz. On these journeys he carefully observed how the sun played off the hills along the Rhein Terrace. Based on these observations he purchased vineyard property that appeared to collect sunlight most efficiently and founded the Gunderloch Estate. Today, the Estate is still in the hands of the Gunderloch family, with Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger, a descendent of Carl Gunderloch, and her winemaker husband Fritz Hasselbach in charge. My wife and I used to go by bike from Mainz to the Gunderloch Tavern on Sunday afternoon to eat a "Spundekaes" (a regional speciality) with a couple of glasses delicious Gunderloch wines. 14 hectares.

www.Gunderloch.de

Loosen Bros. "Dr L" Riesling, Mosel Germany, 2009

Wine Diva: A favorite of many Riesling drinkers the Dr L has appealing notes of crisp green apple and lemondrops, honey blossoms and slate. It walks the fine balance between sweetness and balanced acidity - it's crisp and engaging with plenty of citrus and bright white fruit flavours.

A wine that will pair with a multitude of dishes: Asian cuisines, potato salad, holiday turkey or ham and creamy cheese and quince crostini.

©copyright 2010 Daenna Van Mulligen, Wine Diva reviewed - November 11th, 2010

Christian G.E.Schiller with Ernst Loosen in New York City

Christian G.E.Schiller: Weingut Dr. Loosen, in the Mosel valley, is run and owned by one of the most entrepreneurial German winemakers, Ernst Loosen. In the 2010 Feinschmecker ranking, it is one of Germany’s 16 five star wine estates. Dr. L is Weingut Dr. Loosen’s entry level wine, one of the best sold, if not the best sold German wine in the world. In addition to producing outstanding wines in Germany, Ernst Loosen makes the famous Eroica in Washington State. 22 hectares.

www.drloosen.de

Balthasar Ress Rheingau Riesling, Germany, 2009

Wine Diva: Great Value. You can expect delicate floral notes, lemon drops, apple peel and hints of stone fruit and slate. On the palate it is juicy, it has a kiss of sweetness offset by lively acidity. Crisp apple and citrusy flavors dominate the palate with a clean, zesty finish.

Pair with your holiday ham or turkey dinners or year round with spicy Asian-inspired dishes.

©copyright 2010 Daenna Van Mulligen, Wine Diva reviewed - October 8th, 2010

Christian G.E.Schiller with Christian Ress in Berlin

Christian G.E.Schiller: In 1870, Balthasar Ress set up a restaurant with its own wine business on the main street of the village of Hattenheim in the Rheingau. Within five generations, the Ress family business has developed into one of the leading wine estates of the region and a global player in the wine trade. A considerable portion of its wines are exported to markets around the world, including Canada. Today, Christian Ress is at the helm of the estate. 46 hectares.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

1.International Riesling Symposium

Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch

Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

The 100 Best German Winemakers 2010 – Handelsblatt online and Vinum

Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

Vancouver, the Olympic Winter Games 2010 and Canada's Wine

German Winemakers in the World: Johann Schiller - the father of Canada's wine industry

Eiswein in Germany and Ice Wine in Canada

200 Years of Wine Making in Ontario, Canada

Marianne Wine Estate: South African Wine with a French Soul

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Franck Malassigné, General Manager at Marianne Wine Estate

Marianne Wine Estate close to Stellenbosch is not yet on the radar of many lovers of South Africa wine, but – I am sure – will soon be. Marianne Wine Estate produces wine on South African soil with a French soul. I visited Marianne Estate a few months ago. I was shown around by Franck Malassigné, the General Manager at Marianne Wine Estate, and Bertus Basson, Assistant Winemaker at Marianne Wine Estate.

Relaxing and Dining at Marianne Wine Estate

Marianne Wine Estate is situated at the foothill of the Simonsberg outside the town of Stellenbosch. Though close to the town of Stellenbosch, the Simonsberg is unmarked by urban development and its foothills are carpeted by vineyards. Some Simonsberg vineyards are in Stellenbosch and the rest in Parl. We stayed overnight, in a spacious, comfortable African-styled apartment, surrounded by citrus orchards and vineyards. There is also a comfortable Manor house and a scenic swimming pool area with braai facilities. It was great fun to enjoy scenic walks, laze at the swimming pool, taste the estate wines on a large terraces with picture-postcard views of Table Mountain and enjoy regional South African cuisine in the waterside restaurant Olivello - among the vines.

Marianne, a national emblem of France, is a personification of Liberty, Equality and Fraternity (Brotherhood). The symbol of Marianne has very ancient origins. On her head, Marianne wears a special cap. This cap is called a "Phrygian cap" and was worn by freed slaves during the Roman era. It showed that they were Roman citizens and free. During the French Revolution in 1789, the figure of a woman dressed as a warrior wearing the "Cap of Liberty" came to symbolize the idea that freedom was worth fighting for. People suggested that as this symbol represented the freedom of the common people, it should bear the name most given to women of the common people - Marie-Anne. This later became "Marianne". Her statue holds place of honor in town halls and law courts. She symbolizes the "Triumph of the Republic".

Marianne Wine Estate

Marianne Wine Estate markets itself with the slogan: South African terroir with a French savoir faire. It is a rather new estate, with the Frenchman Christian Dauriac the driving force behind it. Christian Dauriac has been making wine in Bordeaux for 30 years. He owns Château Destieux, St Émilion Grand Cru Classé, Château La Clémence, Pomerol and Château Montlisse, St Émilion Grand Cru. He visited South Africa in 2002, an investor group bought the property in 2004 and he became the head consultant for Marianne Wine Estate. Michel Rolland is consulting for Marianne Wine Estate. Andre van den Berg has been the viticulturist at Marianne Estate for 7 years now. 80% of the wine output is exported to Europe, mainly to France.


Pictures: Marianne Wine Estate

Winemaking Philosophy

Marianne Wine Estate is a property of 36 hectares. The vineyard area totals 18 hectares. The vines were originally planted in 1997, but the vineyard has been modified in recent years. The current breakdown is a s follows: Sauvignon Blanc 1.8 hectares; Merlot 3.9 hectares; Cabernet Sauvignon 4.60 hectares; Pinotage 3.5 hectares; Shiraz 4.1 hectares.

Red winemaking process: Manual harvest, storage of the berries in cold room (12°) during 24 hours. Sorting of the bunch, destemming, sorting of the berries. Franck Malassigné says: “ We focus a lot on sorting. We do 2 sortings in the cellar. Only 5 other winemakers do this in South Africa.” Maceration, fermentation in oak tank (French), manual pushing and pump over during fermentation. Aged 18 to 20 month in oak barrels (French). 100% new for the Shiraz, 30% new for the Merlot, 40% new for the Cabernet Sauvignon. They replace 60% of the barrels by new ones each year.



Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Assistant Winemaker Bertus Basson

White winemaking process: Manual harvest, storage of the berries in cold room (12°) during 24 hours. Sorting of the bunch, destemming, sorting of the berries, fermentation in stainless steel tank.

The Wine Portfolio

SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007

• VARIETALS: 100% Sauvignon Blanc,
• HARVEST: 31st January 2007
• WINEMAKING: (gravity, no pumping)
• Manual harvest, storage of the berries in cold room (12°) during 24 hours.
• Direct press. Cold fermentation in stainless still tank.
• TASTING NOTES: Tropical nose with passion fruit and green fig. Zesty & refreshing. Franck Malassigné says: “We focus is on the tropical style”.

PINOTAGE 2004

• VARIETALS: 100% Pinotage
• HARVEST: Between the 4th and 8th of March 2004.
• WINEMAKING: (gravity, no pumping)
• Manual harvest, storage of the berries in cold room (12°) during 24 hours. Sorting of the bunch, desteaming, sorting of the berries. Maceration, fermentation in stainless still tank. Aged 14 to 18 month in oak barrels (French).
• TASTING NOTES: Ripe banana, plum and red berry notes. Rich and round with a fine long finish.
• MÉDAILLES ET DISTINCTIONS: ABSA TOP10 Pinotage 2007, Gold Medal - Michelangelo International Wine Awards 2007, John Platter Wine Guide 2007: 3 STARS, Commended Medal - Decanter World Wine Awards 2007

MERLOT 2005

• VARIETALS: 100% Merlot
• HARVEST: 15 - 21 March 2005.
• WINEMAKING: (gravity, no pumping)
• Manual harvest, storage of the berries in cold room (12°) during 24 hours. Sorting of the bunch, de-steaming, sorting of the berries. Maceration, fermentation in oak tank (French). Aged 18 to 20 months in oak barrels (French).
• TASTING NOTES: Rich, ripe plum on the nose backed by lavender notes. Soft, well-rounded. Long, ripe fruited finish.
• AWARDS: John Platter Wine Guide 2007: 2 1/2 STARS, VERITAS: Bronze medal

DESIRADE 2004

• VARIETALS: 2/3 Merlot, 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon,
• HARVEST: 15 March - 6 April 2004.
• WINEMAKING: (gravity, no pumping)
• Manual harvest, storage of the berries in cold room (12°) during 24 hours. Sorting of the bunch, de-steaming, sorting of the berries. Maceration, fermentation in oak tank (French). Franck Malassigné says: “We try hard to get as much tannin as we can from our red grapes.”
• TASTING NOTES: A classic Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. Plums, blackberries, licorice & cassis flavor. Bold red with an explosion of fruit.
• AWARDS: Silver Medal - Michelangelo International Wine Awards, WINESPECTATOR: 89/100

FLOREAL 2004

• VARIETALS: 1/3 Shiraz, 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1/3 Merlot
• HARVEST: 15 March - 6 April 2004
• WINEMAKING: (gravity, no pumping)
• Manual harvest, storage of the berries in cold room (12°) during 24 hours. Maceration, fermentation in oak tank (French). 100% new for the Shiraz, 30% new for the merlot, 40% new for the Cabernet Sauvignon
• TASTING NOTES: A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Vanilla essence from the oak extraction enhances the ripe fruit.
• AWARDS: WINESPECTATOR: 88/100, John Platter Wine Guide 2007: 3 STARS

SHIRAZ 2005

• VARIETALS: 100% Shiraz
• HARVEST: 23rd March 2005.
• WINEMAKING: (gravity, no pumping)
• Manual harvest, storage of the berries in cold room (12°) during 24 hours. Sorting of the bunch, desteaming, sorting of the berries. Maceration, fermentation in oak tank (French). Aged 20 month in oak barrels (French). 100% new
• QUANTITIES: Only 1200 bottles of this wine were produced (4 barrels)
• TASTING NOTES: Spicy attractive nose. Vanilla, blackberry, dark chocolate and licorice. Full and smooth, sweet-fruited finish.
• AWARDS: John Platter Wine Guide 2008: 3 1/2 STARS

schiller-wine - Related Articles

In the Plane: Wine on South African Airways from Johannesburg to Livingstone in Zambia (Victoria Falls)

Queen Elizabeth II Gives State Banquet in Honor of President Zuma - Neither English Sparkler nor South African Wine Served

New World Wine Producer South Africa

Boekenhoutskloof – Producer of Sensational Premium Wines as well as Good Value Table Wines in Franschhoek

Lunch with Raphael Dornier in Stellenbosch

Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Devon Rocks - A Boutique Producer of Pinotage in South Africa

Wining, Dining and Relaxing with the Chocolate/Coffee Pinotage at Diemersfontein Wine and Country Estate in Wellington, South Africa

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon With South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace

I had met Jean Trimbach at the Sofitel Restaurant in Washington DC at a winemakers dinner last year and was very happy to see him again at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace. I was also happy to meet Anne Trimbach, the daughter of Jean’s brother Pierre, for the first time.

After Maison Trimbach, my next appointment was with Maison Leon Beyer in Eguisheim. Interestingly, Jean Trimbach reported that a few weeks ago former French President Valery Giscard D'Estaing was on a wine tasting tour in Alsace; he had two wineries on his list: Maison Trimbach and Maison Leon Beyer! Good Choice.

Alsace

Alsace is one of the several world class French wine regions, which produces many excellent still and sparkling, red and white wines, but above all it is highly appreciated for its unoaked, dry and crisp white wines. They tend to be different from those in the other parts of France: Higher in acidity, sometimes really sour, but always a pleasant experience to have them in the glass. And they go very well with the Alsatian food, which is also unique in France. The famous choucroute you find only there in France. But of course, you find it also in neighboring Germany, for example in Frankfurt am Main. Compared with Germany, which also is famous for its world class dry wines, Alsace wines tend to be drier, more full-bodied and higher in alcohol. Finally, sweeter white wines and red wines play only a minor role in Alsace, but they have a very good sparkling wine, the Cremant d’Alsace.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach

Alsace sits in the northeast corner of France, sheltered by the Vosges mountains to the west and hard against the German border to the east. The vineyards reach from around Wissembourg in the north to Mulhouse, 70 miles south. Some 12 million cases are produced annually from 32,000 acres of vineyards.

Alsace is a fascinating amalgam of the German and French. The end of the 30 Years’ War in 1648 gave Alsace to France. In 1871, at the end of the Franco-Prussian War, Alsace was taken by Germany. After World War I, it was once more part of France — until 1940, when Germany reclaimed it. With the defeat of the Nazis in 1945, Alsace became French yet again — and so it has remained. Wine production in Alsace traces its beginnings to the early centuries of the Roman Empire, when the Romans conquered Alsace and introduced wine.

Picture: Trimbach Riesling Alsace Reserve 2008, #62 in the 2010 Wine Spectator Top 100

One of the most intriguing characteristics of Alsace wines is that they are bottled under their varietal names, unlike virtually all other French wines. Four grape varieties are considered to be the best:(i) Riesling – like in Germany, the most celebrated grape; (ii) Muscat – often used to produce sweet wines in France, the Alsace version is bone-dry; (iii) Pinot Gris and (iv) Gewurztraminer –Alsace's signature grape. Three other white grape varieties are also grown: (i) Sylvaner – A high-yielding grape, producing a refreshing wine, often used for blends, (ii) Pinot Blanc and (iii) Chardonnay – used only for sparkling wine. In addition, Alsace does have a little red wine made from the Burgundy grape, Pinot Noir. The Alsatian red wines tend to be quite lightweight, but can be delicious and interesting.

Alsace produces wines under three different appellations: (i) Appellation d'Origine Contrôlées (AOCs) for ¾ of the white, rosé and red wines, (ii) Alsace Grand Cru AOC for white wines from certain classified vineyards and (iii) Crémant d'Alsace AOC for sparkling wines. Alsace makes noble-sweet wines, but does not have the same reputation as Germany or Austria for its noble-sweet wines. I like the Edelzwicker from Alsace, which is blend and an easy to drink day to day wine.

Since the creation of the Grand Cru AOC in Alsace, a number of winemakers have however shunned the system. Maison Trimbach is one of the most notable names to do so. The issue Maison Trimbach has with the Grand Cru AOC is that in their view the Grand Cru vineyards in a number of cases have too extensive boundaries.

Maison Trimbach

“All French 3 star Michelin Restaurants carry Trimbach wine” says Jean Trimbach. This is really impressive and clearly shows what the name Maison Trimbach stands for today: Wines of the highest quality.

Maison Trimbach’s wine-making history goes back to 1626, when Jean Trimbach was recognized as a citizen of Riquewihr in Alsace. From then on, the Maison Trimbach became renowned for its wines. However, it was not until the turn to the 20th century, when, under the leadership of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach, business really took off. Since then, Maison Trimbach has remained a family run business, based in Ribeauville, just a few miles north of Riquewihr, were it all began almost 400 years ago.

Picture: Anne Trimbach

Jean and Pierre Trimbach, the 12th generation, are now in charge, with Pierre looking after the wine making side and Jean after the selling and marketing side of it. The next generation is already involved. Anne, Pierre’s daughter, is with Jean in the marketing branch; inter alia, she is in charge of the facebook and twitter activities.

Winemaking Philosophy

Maison Trimbach's vineyards are all situated around Ribeauvillé, where the soils are mainly limestone (Ribeauvillé, Hunawihr, Bergheim, Rorschwihr, Riquewihr and Mittelwihr). The best sites include the Grands Crus Rosacker, Osterberg and Geisberg, but as indicated above, Maison Trimbach is one of the winemakers in Alsace that are staying away from the Grand Cru AOC system, while Maison Trimbach’s Clos Ste Hune, a grand cru, is arguably the finest wine of Alsace.

Picture: Jean Trimbach and Annette Schiller in the Cellar of Trimbach

In terms of grape varieties, the emphasis is on Riesling, but Maison Trimbach also grows all other classic Alsatian grape varieties, such as Gewuerztraminer “My family is totally committed to Riesling, Riesling is really the king of Alsace for many reasons, in fact, Riesling is the king of the white grapes in the world” says Anne Trimbach. “From 1626 until today, Riesling has been made in the same traditional, pure, clean, dry style” Anne continues.

Jean explains Trimbach’s wine making philosophy: “In the vineyard, the vines are cared for with a restricted approach to the use of chemicals, including insecticides and fertilizers. We ferment at 20 to 21 degrees Celsius in stainless steel tanks and large, wooden barrels. It does not really matter, if a wine is fermented in a tank or a barrel. It is more a question of fitting our needs with what is available. The barrels are smaller than the tanks and therefore the wines we produce in smaller quantities tend to end up in the wooden barrels. We never use new oak. We never do malolactic fermentation. As a rule, we bottle very early to preserve the freshness and the fruitiness. This is what Alsace is all about. The wine then matures in the bottle. The same principle as vintage port. We release wine often only 5 years later. Sometimes we wait up to 10 years.”

Picture: Jean Trimbach in front of the Gewuerztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2005, which was bottled in 04-2006 and will be released in 2011

The Trimbachs let their wines age in the bottles in the cellar during several years before they release them on the market, especially the grand cru wines, such as the Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile. Wines are tasted frequently and released when deemed appropriate. In fact, the Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2002 was released after the 2003 because the younger wine was felt to be ready sooner.

Maison Trimbach is very export-oriented with more than 85 percent of the production being exported. It is both a domaine and negociant, thus it produces wine sourced from own vineyards (40 hectares) and from lease contracts (60 hectares).

The 2010 Vintage

Jean Trimbach was very upbeat about the 2010 vintage: “2010 is a very good vintage, except for the volume. Volume is down by 30%. But volume does not really matter, provided you are not down every year. 2007, 2008 and 2009 were good years in terms of volume and exceptional years in terms of quality.” He continued: “In 2010, the sugar in the grapes and the acidity were rather high. These will be fresh wines with a good ripeness.”

The Maison Trimbach Wine Portfolio

Jean took us through the whole Maison Trimbach wine portfolio. The Trimbach wines come in 4 quality groups: (i) the Classic range, (ii) the Reserve range, (iii) the Reserve Personelle range and (iv) the Prestige and Collection wines.

Trimbach Classic

This is the Trimbach entry level range. These wines represent the traditional, dry, crisp Alsace white wine style and come as Trimbach Pinot Blanc, Silvaner, Gewuerztraminer and Riesling.

I tasted the Riesling 2008 Classic: very fruity and savory with racy acidity, nicely balanced, slightly mineral finish.

Trimbach Reserve

The Reserve wines are made from sections with mostly old vines. These are more complex wines than the Classic wines and can age longer. The Reserve wines come as Muscat, Riesling, Gewuerztraminer, and Pinot Gris. Maison Trimbach is not particularly known for red wines, but they do produce a Pinot Noir Reserve as well as a Pinot Noir Reserve Personelle.

I had the Riesling 2008 Reserve: the Reserve, from old vines grown on limestone, was pure, crisp and intense with a fabulous fruitiness and limestone minerality.

Trimbach Reserve Personelle

The wines of the Reserve Personelle range are from the best terroirs of the estate and not produced every year. These wines will keep for years. There are 3 Reserve Personell wines: (1) the Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile, (2) the Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre and (3) the Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle. They are clearly recognizable because of their golden labels.

The Cuvée Frédéric Emile is probably the best known Trimbach wine. It is one of the finest wines of Alsace, if not one of the world's greatest white wines. Cuvée Frédéric Emile bears the name of the most significant person in the 400 year’s history of Maison Trimbach.

The 2005 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile was a bone dry and mineral Riesling, white flowers and steely citrus peel on the nose, pink grapefruit and pineapple on the palate, with an exceptional creamy mouth feel, the finish is rich, earthy and long, coming from the grands crus Geisberg and Osterberg, both clay-limestone soils, the 2005 Riesling Cuvee Frédéric Emile has a great ageing potential.

Maison Trimbach also produce excellent Gewurztraminer, with the highest expression of the variety being the Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre.

The Gewuerztraminer 2004 Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre is a classic Ribeaupierre, which shows pure fruitiness and freshness, classic lychee aromas and white flowers, followed by grapefruit and Asian spices, the finish is long.

Trimbach Prestige and Collection Wines

This group comprises the Riesling "Clos Sainte Hune", the Vendanges Tardives wines and the Sélection de Grains Nobles wines, made from Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewuerztraminer.

The Clos Sainte Hune is an exceptional terroir, exclusively planted with Riesling, located in the heart of the Grand Cru Rosacker, in Hunawihr. This Clos totals 1.67 hectares and has been in the propriety of the Trimbach family for more than 200 years.

I had the honor of tasting the Clos Sainte Hune 2005: The calcary soil allows the Clos Sainte Hune Riesling to develop a wonderful concentration of fruits, the 2005 has a steely, long finish, it has the potential to become one of the legendary Clos Sainte Hune vintages. The 2005 has not yet been released; there are 7000 bottles only.

Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) wines have white labels. They are restricted to four grape varieties, Muscat, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. Vendanges tardives grapes tend to be over-ripe and often affected by noble rot (botrytis cinerea). They are always very sweet and rich, balanced by a fruity acidity. Available now: Riesling 2002 Vendanges Tardives, Pinot Gris 2000, 1999 et 1997 Vendanges Tardives, Gewurztraminer 2003 Vendanges Tardives, Gewurztraminer Vendages Tardives 2001 et 1999.

Selection de Grains Nobles wines are even sweeter and richer than vendange tardive wines. They are harvested very late and the botrytised grapes are literally being picked one by one. They go very well with Foie Gras or very rich meals and desserts. These rare nectars have an enormous aging potential. Available now: Riesling 2001 Sélection de Grains Nobles, Pinot Gris 2000 et 1994 Sélection de Grains Nobles, Gewurztraminer 2001 et 1989 Sélection de Grains Nobles.


schiller-Wine: Related Postings

The World Class Wines of Alsace

1. International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

In the glass: Hugel et Fils wines at the cuisine des emotions de Jean Luc Brendel at Riquewihr in Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Jean Trimbach and the Wines of Maison Trimbach in Washington DC

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

In the Glass: 2007 Leo Hillinger HillSide Unfiltered With Weingut Hillinger's Michael Hoeffken

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Michael Hoeffken from Weingut Leo Hillinger

I met Michael Hoeffken from Weingut Leo Hillinger, Burgenland, Austria, recently in Vienna in Austria. I think he is more of a salesman, but he told me (and his calling card confirmed this) that he is also an assistant winemaker at Weingut Leo Hillinger. Anyway, he is a very nice, charming guy and he introduced me to Hillinger’s new HillSide wine.

Weingut Leo Hillinger in Burgenland

Weingut Leo Hillinger is in Jois in the Neusiedlersee area in Burgenland. Burgenland is one of Austria’s 4 wine regions – Lower Austria, Styria, Burgenland and Vienna. For many years it was a bit on the margin, although it has a log wine growing tradition. Burgenland belonged to Hungary until 1921 when it was annexed to Austria post WWI. It is a melting pot of Magyar, Slavic and Austrian cultures. Many of the towns have two names, one Croatian or Hungarian and the other name Austrian.

The vineyard area of Burgenland totals 14.000 hectares and comprises 4 areas: (1) Neusiedlersee: At the edges of the vast and shallow Lake Neusiedl, a variety of grapes are grown on 9,100 hectares of vineyards, including world-famous noble sweet wines. (2) Neusiedlersee-Hügelland: At the foot of the Leithagebirge and west of Lake Neusiedl, a variety of grapes are grown on 4,150 hectares of vineyards, including the renowned Ruster Ausbruch. (3) Mittelburgenland: On 2,100 hectares of vineyards, one red grape variety plays the leading role: Blaufränkisch and 4 towns are the wine-growing area´s main producers: Deutschkreutz, Horitschon, Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt. (4) Südburgenland: One of Austria´s smallest wine-growing areas, where excellent terroir wines are produced from 500 hectares of vineyards, which are situated mainly on the Eisenberg, with Blaufraenkisch being the typical red wine.

Picture: Austria's Wine Regions

The Hillinger family has been producing wine for several generations. Leo Hillinger took over in 1990. At the time, the Weingut was tiny with only one hectare of vineyard area. Under Leo’s stewardship the winery has seen a phenomenal growth. Today, the vineyard area totals 46 hectares, of which 26 hectares are in Jois in the Neusiedlersee region, and another 20 hectares in and around Rust in Neusiedlersee-Huegellland. 60% of the area is planted with red varieties - Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah - and the remaining 40% are planted with the white varieties - Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. In addition, grapes are sourced from contract growers with another 70 hectares of vineyards. Weingut Leo Hillinger is today one of the top names in Austria.

2007 Hillside Unfiltered

Grape varieties: 80% Syrah, 10% Blaufränkisch and 10% Merlot
Alcoholic: 14% alc. vol.
Residual sugar: 0,5 g/l
Acidity: 5,2 g/l
20 months in oak barrels

Tasting notes: Intense ruby in the glass, spicy aromas with dark berries on the nose, good structure, juicy, ripe fruit on the palate, very creamy, hint of coffee, smooth finish, a delicious wine.

The 2007 HillSide Unfiltered retails for about $ 25 in the US. For more information, see Klaus Wittauer's Select Wines.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Picking and Drinking Gruener Veltliner with Ewald Gruber sen. and jun., Weingut Gruber, Weinviertel, Austria

Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Willi Klinger Leads Tasting of Austria's Undiscovered Stars at EWBC 2010 in Vienna

Lunch with Silvia Prieler, Weingut Prieler, Schuetzen am Gebirge, Austria

Chef Martin Weiler Suggests Amazing Food to Go With Gruener Veltliner

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2010

Producing Wines in Austria and Hungary - Franz and Franz Reinhard Weninger

Best German White Wines – Capital July 2010 Ranking

The German monthly magazine Capital published in its July issue – for the 16th time - its prestigious list of the best German white wines – of the last vintage.

24 Different Categories – Dry, Noble Sweet and Fruity Sweet Rieslings and Other Wines

There are 24 different categories, with the grape variety (Riesling, Silvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc), style (dry, noble sweet and fruity sweet) and ripeness of grapes at harvest (QbA, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese or Eiswein) the determining factors. The judges – mainly sommeliers from top restaurants - awarded 3 prizes (First, Second, Third Place) in each of the 24 categories. Thus, the list includes 75 wines (in 3 categories 4 prizes were awarded).

17 of the categories are dry wines, 3 are noble sweet wines and 4 are fruity sweet Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese wines.

The list reflects very well the state of German white wine production. On the one hand, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein wines, made from botrytized or frozen grapes. The grapes that go into these wines have at the time of harvest such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce lusciously sweet wines. But apart from these exceptions, grapes harvested in Germany, a country at the northern frontier of winemaking, have normal sugar content at the time of harvest and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented. 17 of the 24 categories are thus dry wines.

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. There are principally two ways for making wine sweet that do not have enough sugar. First, you do not let the fermentation run its course and stop it. As a result, you get delicious sweet and low level alcohol wines. Second, you let the wine fully ferment to a normal alcohol level and then add Suessreserve which is sterilized juice to achieve the desired level of sweetness. These fruity sweet wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US. 4 of the categories are these fruity sweet Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese wines.

Riesling

11 of the 24 categories are Rieslings. Of course, Riesling is the king of German wine. But there are other grapes, which are popular in Germany. These other white grape varieties are largely absent from the export markets.

Red Wine Boom

This is a contest confined to Germany’s white wines. But there is a red wine boom in Germany. The share of red wines in terms of production has increased from 10 percent in the 1980s to about 35 percent now in Germany. Of course, given its location, the German red wines tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, in the international scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this has changed. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world. The red wine boom has not yet reached the US and it is very difficult to find these wines in the US.

Grosses Gewaechs Wines

A few years ago, the VDP, Germany’s elite winemakers, introduced the concept of Grosses Gewaechs wines. Grosses Gewaechs refers to a top dry wine from a top vineyard. Grosses Gewaechs wines is the best Germany has to offer in terms of dry wines. The Grosse Gewaechs label is thought to resemble the Grand/Premier Cru designation in neighboring France. Here and there, these wines are dry. As a rule, Grosses Gewaechs Wines are bottled as QbA wines, although they have to be at a minimum Spaetlese wines and are mostly Auslese wines. This gives the winemaker the possibility to chaptalize in order to increase the alcohol content in the wine, if desirable. Finally, the Rheingau does not use this concept, but the concept of Erstes Gewaechs, which basically means the same.

These Grand Cru Wines are a bit difficult to find on the list, but they are there. The Rieslings Grosses Gewaechs wines can be found under Riesling QbA Premium, the second category. That they are the best Riesling dry wines on the list becomes clear, when you look at their prices – it is the highest on the list, except for the noble-sweet wines.

Sauvignon Blanc Winners

For the first time, Sauvignon Blanc was included in the tasting. The three best Sauvignon Blanc wines were the wines of Wöhrwag (Württemberg), Hensel (Pfalz) and Hofmann (Rheinhessen).

Sauvignon Blanc produced in Germany was a few years ago completely unheard of. If we would drink a Sauvignon Blanc in Germany, we would turn to the Bordeaux or Loire wines. Today, Sauvignon Blanc is becoming a well established grape variety in Germany, although it is still a niche wine. Its stronghold are the Rheinhessen, Baden, Wuerttemberg and Pfalz regions.

Sauvignon Blanc originates from the Bordeaux and Loire regions in France. It is now planted in many of the world's wine regions. Around 80,000 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc are estimated to be planted worldwide, with the largest concentrations in France and New Zealand. Sauvignon Blanc is well established now in Germany after its introduction 10 years ago, but still only a niche wine. Germany's total vineyard area is about 100.000 hectares, of which some 600 hectares are planted with Sauvignon Blanc. Some 500 producers in all German wine regions, with the exception of Sachsen, Mittelrhein and Ahr, produce Sauvigon Blanc wines. The largest areas are in the Pfalz (224 hectares), Rheinhessen (130 hectares), Baden (82 hectares) and Württemberg (27 hectares).

The Most Successful Winemakers

The most successful winemakers were Weingut Robert Weil (Rheingau) with six wines on the list, Weingut Korrell (Nahe ) with 5 wines, Weingut Graf von Schönborn with 4 wines , Weingut Karl Pfaffmann (Pfalz) and Weingut Josef Rosch (Mosel) with 3 wines each and Weingut Matthias Müller (Middle Rhine), Weingut Spiess (Rheinhessen), Weingut J. Geil Erben (Rheinhessen), Weingut Am Stein, Weingut M. Fröhlich (both Franken) and Weingut Manz (Rheinhessen) with 2 each wines.

In terms of regional distribution, Franken, with 15 wines, was the most successful region, followed by the Pfalz with 13 wines, the Mosel with 11 wines and the Nahe with 10 wines. 7 of the top wines of the tasting were from Rheinhessen, 6 from Baden, 2 from the Mittelrhein and and 1 from Württemberg.


schiller-wine - Related Postings

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

1.International Riesling Symposium

Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch

Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

The 100 Best German Winemakers 2010 – Handelsblatt online and Vinum

Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2011

Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

Lusciously Sweet Rieslings - Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium

In the Glass: 2009 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken and 2009 Riesling Kiedricher Graefenberg Spaetlese, both Weingut R. Weil, Kiedrich, Rheingau

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon With South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

Picture: Stellenbosch Big Easy Bar Keeper Sithembele Gumede Serving a Glass of Rust en Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

I had a Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - and South African oysters - at the Restaurant and Wine Bar “Big Easy” in Stellenbosch.

The Big Easy in Stellenbosch

The Big Easy is arguably the best place in Stellenbosch to taste the wines Stellenbosch. It serves more than 170 wines from Stellenbosch and surrounds to complement their excellent food. You find in particular the wines of the Big Easy co-owners Jean Engelbrecht (Rust en Vrede and Guardian Peak Wines), Johann Rupert (L’Ormarins), Paul Harris (Audacia) and Ernie Els (Ernie Els wines) well represented.

The Big Easy Restaurant and Wine Bar is in La Gratitude in Dorp Street Stellenbosch. La Gratitude was built in 1798 by the first Reverend of Stellenbosch and boasts a blend of Cape Dutch, Georgian and Victorian architecture. Golf star Ernie Els lent his nickname to the restaurant and wine bar, which is featuring memorabilia and photos of him. The brasserie-styled eatery offers classical food that smacks of local flavour, created by local born chef Simone Rossouw. Starters range from R45 to R70, mains from R75 to R170 and desserts from R45.

Oysters in South Africa

I had oysters (Crassostrea gigas) with Cabernet Sauvignon sauce - an unusual, but very delicious combination. The Japanese oyster Crassostrea gigas forms the mainstay of the South African oyster farming industry. It has now been cultured along the South African - and Namibian - coast for 30 years. Over the last century, oysters have been extensively moved around the globe and, although originating in the north west Pacific, the Crassostrea gigas presently has established populations on all major coastlines of the Northern Hemisphere (with the exception of the Atlantic coast of North America) as well as on the coasts of Tasmania, southern and eastern Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. Around 4 million oysters are currently produced annually in South Africa; the Namibian oyster production amounts to 6 million oysters per year, with about 70 per cent exported to South Africa.

Picture: Oysters With Cabernet Sauvignon Sauce

Rust en Vrede

Through centuries there were periods when wine was produced, but for the last 33 years Rust en Vrede has specialized in producing red wine with the focus on Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Rust en Vrede was established in 1694 by the then Governor of the Cape, Willem Adrian van der Stel. It was originally made up of a larger property but in the early 1700’s was divided into two whereby the original section remained as Rust en Vrede. The first house on the estate was built in 1780 followed by the cellar in 1785. In 1790 the larger manor house was built. At the end of 1977 the Engelbrecht family took residence on Rust en Vrede. The Engelbrecht family has been grape growers since the early 1700’s and by moving to Rust en Vrede, became wine producers for the first time. Rust en Vrede is now headed by Jean Engelbrecht. Rust en Vrede produces only 20 000 cases of wine per year on its 55 hectares of land, of which 65% is exported to more than 30 countries around the world.

President Nelson Mandela selected Rust en Vrede to be served at the 1993 Nobel Peace Prize dinner in Oslo, where he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. In 2000, Rust en Vrede became the first South African winery to be included on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of the World list.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Technical notes: The Rust enVrede vineyards are situated on north facing slopes, hence the slightly warmer and more moderate climatic conditions. Situated in close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, cool sea breezes help reduce the vineyard temperatures during the summer months, extending the ripening period and thus allowing for big, well-structured wines to develop. The vineyards are carefully trellised and the canopy is managed in a way to ensure optimum phenolic ripeness of the grapes. Two ‘green harvests' are done annually whereby the crop is reduced to between 6-8 tons per hectare to intensify flavors. Fermented is in open top fermentation vats. The wines are aged in French 300 liter barrels for 18 months. The Cabernet clones (6) are kept separate throughout vinification, each getting a unique treatment of yeast and wood. After 18 months, the different clones are blended, bottled and left to mature for at least 18 months before release.

Tasting Notes: Dark ruby in the glass, lead pencil and cigar box aromas are dominant with a subtle hint of toffee, dark cherry aromas are also prevalent on the nose, good struture, big in stature with a prominent oak spice character on the palate, notes of tobacco and liquorice on the finish, this wine shows the potential to age superbly.

schiller-wine - Related Articles

In the Plane: Wine on South African Airways from Johannesburg to Livingstone in Zambia (Victoria Falls)

Queen Elizabeth II Gives State Banquet in Honor of President Zuma - Neither English Sparkler nor South African Wine Served

New World Wine Producer South Africa

Boekenhoutskloof – Producer of Sensational Premium Wines as well as Good Value Table Wines in Franschhoek

Lunch with Raphael Dornier in Stellenbosch

Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Devon Rocks - A Boutique Producer of Pinotage in South Africa

Wining, Dining and Relaxing with the Chocolate/Coffee Pinotage at Diemersfontein Wine and Country Estate in Wellington, South Africa

New Hampshire, USA: Cheese ….and Lobsters and Oysters … and Wine!

In the Glass: 2009 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken and 2009 Riesling Kiedricher Graefenberg Spaetlese, both Weingut R. Weil, Kiedrich, Rheingau

Pictures: Wilhelm Weil and the Robert Weil Estate in Kiedrich, Rheingau, Germany

Congratulations to Weingut Robert Weil on having their 2009 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken named a Wine Spectator Top 100 wine for 2010 in the US and on having their 2009 Kiedricher Graefenberg Spaetlese named Best Spaetlese of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011) in Germany. The Turmberg is pretty dry with a normal level of alcohol and the Graefenberg is pretty sweet with a low level of alcohol – and both are German world class Rieslings from adjacent vineyards and the same vintage.

2009 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken

Here’s what the Wine Spectator says: A pungent, aromatic white, with gooseberry, peony and spice on the nose. Racy and vividly flavored, with citrus intensity and a laserlike finish. A bit extreme, yet full of personality and a sense of place. The Turmberg was rated #81 in the 2010 Top 100.

Kiedricher Turmberg

The Kiedricher Turmberg (“tower hill”) vineyard right next to the Kiedricher Gräfenberg vineyard, rated as a 1. Lage (grand cru). The German wine law of 1971 incorporated Turmberg into the Gräfenberg, but in 2005 it was reinstated as an individual vineyard.

2009 Kiedricher Graefenberg Spaetlese

Here is what Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011 says: A basket of tropical fruits, vibrant play of the animating acidity and ripe mangos, great Spaetlese with a fantastic finish. The Graefenberg was selected a Spaetlese of the Year 2011.

Kiedricher Graefenberg

The Kiedricher Graefenberg is a renowned vineyard, first documented in the 12th century. As the adjacent Turmberg vineyard, it is classified as a 1. Lage (grand cru).



Pictures: The Wines of Weingut Robert Weil Tasted in Kiedrich

Kiedrich in the Rheingau

It is remarkable: For its entire length of nearly 560 miles, the Rhine flows north with one exception – a 28-mile stretch where the river changes its course. Here, it flows to the west, thereby enabling both the river and the vineyards facing it to bask in the warmth of the sun all day long. This is the Rheingau, one of the medium-size German wine regions. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

Picture: The Rheingau With Kiedrich

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines to take back to his estate in Virginia.

Weingut Robert Weil

Founded in 1875, Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich is currently the Rheingau’s #1 estate and among Germany’s top 10 estates. Four generations and over a century ago Dr. Robert Weil, who was a Professor of German at the Sorbonne was forced to leave Paris because of the Franco-Prussian War (1870/1871). He subsequently joined his brother August in the Rheingau and established the Robert Weil winery. Contacts throughout the world and the production of great wines brought rapid growth to the estate. Today the estate is managed by Wilhelm Weil, who owns the winery jointly with Suntory from Japan. With 75 hectares under vine, it is one of the largest estates in the Rheingau. The vineyards are planted 99% with Riesling and 1% with Spätburgunder.

Two Outstanding Wines Teach us a Lot About How German Wine is Made

Both wines are outstanding wines, made by an outstanding producer, from two top vineyards that are adjacent to each other. My hunch is that the grapes for both wines were harvested at basically the same level of ripeness. But one wine is pretty dry and the other wine is pretty sweet. Why?

Well - not because in one vineyard there was a lot of sun and in the other one was no sun. The fundamental difference is how they were vinified. The Turmberg was fully fermented , is pretty dry and has 13% of alcohol. The Graefenberg was not fully fermented so that what we have in the glass is a wine that is low in alcohol (8.5%) and high in sugar.

The VDP, of which Weingut Robert Weil is a member (in fact Wilhelm Weil is the VDP President of the Rheingau) has introduced for its members the rule, that only sweet-style wines can carry the predicate labels Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese. Dry wines, even if they are harvested at Kabinett, Spaetlese or Auslese level do not carry the predicate labels Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese, but are marketed as Qualitaetswein besonderer Anbaugebiete (QbA). QbA wines – in contrast to predicate wines – can be capitalized within certain limits. Furthermore, under German law – but not in Alsace and Austria – winemakers can add sweetreserve – sterilized juice – to the wine in order to increase and fine-tune the level of sweetness in the wine.

So, my hunch is that the grapes for both wines when harvested were very similar in terms of ripeness. The Turmberg was fully fermented and possibly a bit chaptalized to increase the alcohol level of the wine. By contrast, the Graefenberg was stopped during fermentation and some of the sugar that was in the grapes remained in the wine. In addition, the winemaker was allowed to add sweetreserve. I do not know if Wilhelm Weil did this. If he did, then he added just a little bit to finetune the wine. The main factor behind the sweetness is that the fermentation was stopped. Alternatively, he could have let the fermentation run its course and then added more sweet reserve. This would have then been a wine with the alcohol level of the Turmberg and the sweetness of the Graefenberg.

For those, who are not so much interested in technical details, just forget the above and enjoy Wilhelm Weil’s wines – both wines, sweet or dry, are world class wines.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

1.International Riesling Symposium

Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch

Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

The 100 Best German Winemakers 2010 – Handelsblatt online and Vinum

Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2011

Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

Lusciously Sweet Rieslings - Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium

Producing Wines in Austria and Hungary - Franz and Franz Reinhard Weninger

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Franz Reinhard Weninger at Weingut Weninger in Austria

I had the pleasure to spend a couple of hours with Franz Reinhard Weninger in Horitschon in the Mittelburgenland region in Austria. Franz Reinhard is the son of Franz Weninger, who made the name Weninger famous in the wine world. “Weninger is one of the most highly regarded wineries in Austria (Falstaff, March 2005)”.

We spent time in the vineyards and at the winery of Weingut Weninger in Horitschon. Although the plan is that Franz Reinhard will eventually take over the Weingut Weninger in Burgenland, for the time being, Franz Reinhard manages a winery in Hungary, just across the border, which his father Franz founded a few years ago. Also, Franz co-founded a winery with Attila Gere a few years ago in Hungary. So, of course, we focused on the Weingut Weninger in Burgenland, but did not lose sight of the other two Weninger estates.

Burgenland

Burgenland is one of Austria’s 4 major wine regions – Lower Austria, Styria, Burgenland and Vienna – which was for many years a bit on the margin, although it has a log wine growing tradition. Burgenland belonged to Hungary until 1921 when it was annexed to Austria post WWI. It is a melting pot of Magyar, Slavic and Austrian cultures. Many of the towns have two names, one Croatian or Hungarian and the other name Austrian. The vineyard area of Burgenland totals 14.000 hectares and comprises 4 areas:

Picture: The Wine Regions of Austria

Neusiedlersee: At the edges of the vast and shallow Lake Neusiedl, a variety of grapes are grown on 9,100 hectares of vineyards, including world-famous noble sweet wines.

Neusiedlersee-Hügelland: At the foot of the Leithagebirge and west of Lake Neusiedl, a variety of grapes are grown on 4,150 hectares of vineyards, including the renowned Ruster Ausbruch.

Mittelburgenland: On 2,100 hectares of vineyards, one red grape variety plays the leading role: Blaufränkisch and 4 towns are the wine-growing area´s main producers: Deutschkreutz, Horitschon, Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt.

Südburgenland: One of Austria´s smallest wine-growing areas, where excellent terroir wines are produced from 500 hectares of vineyards, which are situated mainly on the Eisenberg, with Blaufraenkisch being the typical red wine.

Mittelburgenland

Blends of Blaufraenkisch with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and matured in small new oak barrels put Mittelburgenland on the map in the 1990s. Then, premium wine production shifted away from blends to 100% Blaufrankisch wines. Mittelburgenland DAC was the first wine in Burgenland to be given DAC status - 100% Blaufränkisch matured in stainless steel or used barrels and casks that do not impart new oak flavours (Classic). Mittelburgenland Reserve DAC is also 100% Blaufränkisch from Mittelburgenland, but may be matured in new oak.

Although Blaufränkisch is the main variety (55% of the vineyard area is planted with Blaufränkisch), Mittelburgenland also produces dry white wines, including Welschriesling and Chardonnay, and other red wines, such as Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Weingut Weninger in Mittelburgenland, Austria

The Weninger family has been making wine for generations in Mittelburgenland, but used to sell the wine in barrels. This changed in 1982, when Franz Weninger started to bottle his wine. At that time, the vineyards totaled only 7 hectares. But the Blaufränkisch, Franz Weninger made in the first year, caught the attention of Austrian and foreign wine drinkers. From there one, the way was only upwards for the Weninger wines, both in terms of quantity and quality. Today, the size of the estate in Miitelburgenland has increased to 30 hectares and Franz Weninger is ranked among the top Austrian winemakers.

Franz Weninger’s way of working is based on the principle of exerting as little influence on the growth of the plants as possible. Converting to a bio-dynamic production method in 2006 was thus a logical step toward coming closer to nature and improving quality. Franz Reinhard says: “ The winemaker can only bring out in the cellar what is already in the grape. The soil, the water, and the environment are key factors. And these factors vary from vineyard to vineyard. This is why we moved to bio-dynamic production methods and why we make such an effort to find the right grape variety for the different soils.”

"In terms of winemaking” says Franz Reinhard, “the trend is to less oak. We like used oak. Vinification takes place in wooden fermentation vats of 4000 liters and we use only yeasts from our own vineyards. Spontaneous fermentation is easier in wood.”

The Vineyards

Hochäcker site: This rock-hard, ferruginous clay horizon is the best soil for Blaufränkisch and Merlot. The oldest vines on the site are roughly 80 years old. The wines that come from here age well and are full of character.

Kirchholz site: The Kirchholz site is directly adjacent to the Hochäcker site. The soil here is lighter and more porous. This site has also been dedicated to Blaufränkisch, which grows on vines older than 35 years.

Raga site: Zweigelt takes root best in less heavy, loamy soils. And Merlot appreciates the proximity to the Raga woods and deep, friable brown soil.
Kalkofenboden site: This southern exposure provides the ideal conditions for Pinot Noir; the soil is rich in lime and called rendsine.

Dürrau site: Even in very dry times, there is still water on the Dürrau site; the disadvantage is that the roots have to push their way through the heavy, loamy soil – a job cut out for Blaufränkisch vines.

Saybritz site: For several years Franz Weninger has been making wine from the Saybritz site in southern Burgenland. The 0.6 hectares belong to relatives. The extremely steep slope is mainly planted with 35-year-old vines of the Blaufränkisch variety.

The Weninger Wine Portfolio

The wines start at Euro 6 for the entry level wines and go up to Euro 49 for the Duerrau ex-winery. Most of the wines are red wines. About 70$ of the output is sold in Austria, the remainder is exported, with Japan being a strong market.

St. Laurent: The storybook Burgenland wine: ruby red color, intensive aroma of black cherries and cherries. Even young, it already shows complexity and good density.

Picture: The Wines Of Weingut Weninger in Austria

Zweigelt: Characteristic of the younger type of this variety. Fruity, harmonious, velvety, with cherry notes on the nose.

Zweigelt Raga: Aged for 11 months in barriques, this is a fruity wine with sour cherry and plum aromas and light, sweet woody notes. A lively balance between fruit and acidity and a delicate mineral spice give this Zweigelt extraordinary potential.

Blaufränkisch Horitschon: A classic central Burgenland wine, aged in large oak barrels, ruby red, intensive flavor, lively on the palate with a long finish.

Blaufränkisch Hochäcker: This wine is an example of what the predominant grape variety in central Burgenland is capable of bringing forth: very old vines, rigorous selection, and aging in oak barrels (at least one year) produce an elegant, complex wine with a long finish.

Blaufränkisch Saybritz: The Saybritz site is located in southern Burgenland on the Eisenberg hill. The grapes used to make this Blaufränkisch come from vines of an average age of 40 years.

Blaufränkisch Reserve: The modern counterpart to the classic Hochäcker, made from a selection of the best grapes from the oldest vineyards. 15 months in the barrique give it a new dimension without adulterating the typical local character of the grape variety. A wine to be aged, best drunk between the 3rd and 7th year.

Merlot: Originally planted as the predominant grape for cuvées, this international variety soon developed a uniquely independent character in these deep loamy soils and since 1995 has been processed as a varietal wine. In the nose it is fruity and elegant; on the palate, harmonious and velvety. The wine is aged for 18 months in new barriques.

Cabernet Sauvignon: Grown on the Hochäcker and Raga sites and aged in French barriques for 18 months.

Veratina Cuvée: Derived from the names of his daughters Verena and Martina, this is Franz Weninger’s best cuvée. Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, and Merlot have been blended into a tantalizing work of art. The structure and tannins of the Blaufränkisch, the soft, melted caramel of the Merlot, the chewy voluminous character of the Zweigelt – a full-bodied wine of massive dimensions. Best drunk between the 3rd and 8th year.

Blaufränkisch Kirchholz: This wine is characterized by a dark ruby-pomegranate color, a clear, spicy Blaufränkisch fruit with distinctive mineral notes. Vinified from grapes produced by over 30-year-old vines grown on a terrain of clay-loam soil mixed with sand and gravel. Fermentation (spontaneous) and further aging in 2-year-old barriques yields a wine that is full-bodied on the palate with a pronounced fruity flavor of plums and blackberries and striking tannins!

Blaufränkisch Dürrau: Franz Weninger vinified his Blaufränkisch grapes from the Dürrau site as a single-site wine for the first time in 1999. The wine represents the rough-and-ready Blaufränkisch grape variety, robust, rich in extracts, superb tannins, and a strong smoky, woody flavor. Exceptionally dark, ruby-pomegranate color, intensive blackberry aromas, the juicy fruitiness of black cherries give this dense wine, which is very typical for this region, its distinctive quality.

Pinot Noir Kalkofen: This southern slope is known for its warm, chalky soil. Franz Weninger vinifies the grapes grown here to produce a barrique-aged Pinot Noir with plenty of fruit and a pleasant caramel-woody aroma.

The Weninger Weingut in Balf, Hungary

In 1997, after the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, Franz Weninger founded another winery in the region, in the village of Balf, just across the border of Austria, at the southern end of Lake Neusiedl, in the wine region of Sopron in Hungary. “It was one of the first modern wineries in Hungary” says Franz Rheinhard.

Picture: Map of Hortischon and Balf

Predominantly red wine is cultivated on the more than 1,900 hectares of vineyards between Lake Neusiedl and the Sopron mountains – a zone where Pannonian and subalpine terrrains converge. The foothills of the Alps bring coolness, the lake stores warmth, and the ground willingly submits to cultivation.

The winery is now managed by Franz Reinhard Weninger. Franz Reinhard was born in 1979 and grew up on his parents’ wine estate in Mittelburgenland. After graduating from enology school in Klosterneuburg, he did internships at Schloss Sallegg (Italy), Kendall-Jackson’s Vinwood Cellars, California (USA), and the Mundrakoona Estate (Australia). In 2000, he took over the Balf estate. In 2006 the Hungarian wine magazine Borbarat ranked Franz Reinhard Weninger as number seven in its list of best Hungarian wineries.

The winery totals 22 hectares. About 60 % of the wines are sold in Hungary. As in Burgenland, the grapes are grown following bio-dynamic principles. “What is the main difference between Austria and Hungarian wine” I asked? “They use less sulfur and more oxidation in Hungary than in Austria’ says Franz Reinhard.

Spern Steiner: The Spern Steiner site (14 hectares) once belonged to the Church of Sopron. In the town chronicles it was always mentioned as the finest and most precious vineyard in the region. This terrain has been used for viticulture for roughly 400 years. Rich in gneiss and mica schist, the rare mineral composition of the soil on this site provides a particularly exciting basis for Kékfrankos. These particular vines were planted back in the 1960s and the roots of this variety reach deep into the rock, break it down, and draw the minerals into the plant.

Picture: The Wines of Weingut Weninger in Balf, Hungary

Frettner: The 8 hectares of vineyards on the Frettner site lie at the edge of an oak woods and feature excellent loamy soils. The old rock of the mountains between the foothills of the Alps and Lake Neusiedl have transformed themselves into brown soils with deposits of extremely weathered bedrock. The soil here is very deep and is rich in humus and lime deposits. Due to its proximity to the woods, cold air blows over the vineyards and keeps the grapes constantly cool.

The Weninger and Gere Weingut in Villany, Hungary

In 1992, Franz Weninger teamed up with Hungarian winemaker Attila Gere and founded the Weninger and Gere Weingut in Villány in Hungary. Since then, they have been producing fine red wine on 13 hectares of land in Villány, the southernmost wine region in Hungary, situated near the Croatian border. Franz brought new technical know-how. The region enjoys both a Mediterranean and continental climate. The wines are deep, dark and powerful. They have become extremely sought after in Hungary, and only a small amount is exported.

Cabernet Franc: Smoky-spicy red wine of Cabernet Franc grapes, easy to drink.

Cuvée Phoenix: Massive cuvée. A wine that ideally combines an impulsive southern temperament with modern elegance.

Pictures: The Wines of Weingut Weninger/Gere in Hungary

Kopár: This is the emblematic wine of the winery. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, it is only made in the best years with selected grapes from the premium slopes of Villány (Kopár, Csillagvölgy, and Konkoly). It is aged for 16-20 months in new Hungarian oak barrels.



schiller-wine: Related Postings

Picking and Drinking Gruener Veltliner with Ewald Gruber sen. and jun., Weingut Gruber, Weinviertel, Austria

Wine ratings: Austria's best red wines - 2010

Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Willi Klinger Leads Tasting of Austria's Undiscovered Stars at EWBC 2010 in Vienna

Lunch with Silvia Prieler, Weingut Prieler, Schuetzen am Gebirge, Austria

Chef Martin Weiler Suggests Amazing Food to Go With Gruener Veltliner

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2010

A Rich Selection of Hungarian Wines at the Hungarian Embassy in the US

Tokaji: Depressing and Encouraging News from Hungary

Wine Bar: The Wine Bar by Bazilika, Budapest, Hungary