Thursday, August 31, 2017

Wine Dinner at one of Frankfurt's Best Restaurants - Weinsinn, Germany

Picture: Dinner with Friends at Weinsinn in Frankfurt (1 Star Michelin/ 16 Points Gault Millau)

In Frankfurt, Annette and I are members of a group of wine and food aficiniados that meets about once a month in a top restaurant. In August, we had dinner at Weinsinn.

There were six of us. We had 7 bottles of wine. We all had 4 courses. We spent Euro 175 including tax and tip per person.

See also:
Lunch and Beaujolais at Weinsinn in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Sauvignon Blanc in Austria – A Comparative Tasting with Falstaff's Peter Moser at Weinsinn in Frankfurt, Germany

Picture: Arriving at Weinsinn

Weinsinn

New York Times

By PETE WELLS - October 22, 2013: When young lovers dream of a romantic European dinner in a back-street hideaway packed with locals, those back streets tend to be in Paris or Florence, not Düsseldorf or Nuremberg. When thrill-seeking diners book long-distance travel to taste some pathbreaking chef’s strange new inventions, their planes land in places like Barcelona or Copenhagen, not Leipzig or Dresden.

Although the 2013 Michelin Guide paid lavish attention to Germany, awarding 3 stars to 10 restaurants there, neither those restaurants nor their chefs are household names in any country but their own. When Germany flexes its economic muscle, other countries jump to attention. When it shows off its gastronomic power, they shrug.

Pictures: Owner and General Manager Mathias Schreiber and Chef André Rickert

Anytime the world seems to have made a secret pact to ignore a subject, curious minds grow even more curious. So off I went last month on a brief but industrious eating tour of Germany. I traveled to three of the cities foreigners are most likely to visit, Munich, Frankfurt and Berlin, making reservations in relatively new restaurants. None of them were especially luxurious or expensive compared with the rarefied dining rooms that are catnip to the Michelin Guide.

German chefs tend to play a long game, honing their craft in the same kitchen for decades. Coming from New York, where chefs will put a restaurant on their résumés after working there free for a few weeks, I was deeply impressed by the German dedication to putting down roots. But I was especially interested in seeing where the country’s restaurant scene may be going next, so I restricted myself to places that had opened since the start of this decade.

Pictures: Chef André Rickert

Around the same time, my colleague Frank Bruni was pursuing a similar assignment in China, following similar rules. Unlike me, he stuck to the rules. I bent them to write about a very good meal I had in Frankfurt at Weinsinn, which opened at the end of 2009. My rationale: In its first months, Weinsinn was a wine bar, and didn’t begin to evolve into a restaurant until it hired its current chef, André Rickert, the following year.

Mr. Rickert has a modernist’s skill set and a modernist’s talent for combining the serious and the playful. Look what he does to ratatouille. Even its fans have to admit that the dish, a lump of stewed vegetables mired in a tar pit of olive oil, is usually no great beauty. Mr. Rickert’s version is a colorful, bright, edible garden, a field of couscous across which he plants black olives, shards of feta, a bright green mound of basil ice cream and warm cherry tomatoes that dissolved into sweet pulp on my tongue like berries in a pie.

The ingredients were strewn all across the plate, but the flavors were firmly rooted. That was the case, too, with a dessert of late-summer damson plums that appeared in three guises: stuffed into a tender dumpling, frozen into sorbet and poached with cinnamon syrup.

Weinsinn is compact, with only 35 seats in two small dining rooms. So is Mr. Rickert’s menu of three appetizers, three main courses and three desserts. The wine list, on the other hand, goes on for page after page, although there is a simpler way. We asked the sommelier, Jens Gabelmann, to choose for us. He sized up our table at a glance and brought us just the wine we might have asked for if we had been able to put our wishes into words.

Weinsinn is perpetually full but not a scene; all the action is on the plates and in the glasses. The owners, Matthias Scheiber and Milica Trajkovska, his wife, say they borrowed the idea of serving serious food and drink for reasonable prices in a lively, informal room from French places like La Régalade.

“The bistronomy movement does not exist in Germany,” Mr. Scheiber said. Traditionally, he continued, restaurant cooking in his country isn’t taken seriously unless it “comes out of hotels” with highly formal dining rooms.

Pictures: The Last Guests

Michelin (1 Star)

Kein Wunder, dass diese Adresse so gefragt ist: Hier geht es lebhaft zu, stimmig die moderne Einrichtung, wirklich toll die ausdrucksstarke und angenehm geradlinige Küche! Und dazu gibt es über 200 Positionen Wein.

Gault Millau (16 Points)

Im Weinsinn findet man schnell zum Leichtsinn. Lockere Atmosphäre, unkomplizierter Service, beherzte Küche und gute Weinkarte wirken nun mal animierend – entsprechend lebhaft ist der Gästezuspruch für André Rickerts roten Gazpacho mit Flusskrebs oder seine Interpretation der thailändischen Tom Kha Gai-Suppe per Kabeljau im Limettensud mit Kokos. Völlig stimmig auch der roh marinierte Cobia-Barsch mit…

Culinary Insights

...And Germany? There seems to be some hope for food enthusiasts looking for a excellent fare at reasonable prices as two Amador disciples have begun to cook in a neo-bistro manner, André Rickert at Weinsinn in Frankfurt and Christoph Kubenz at Schaumahl in Offenburg (where no Frankfurter would normally set a step, but it’s worth it). But, and that is gratifying, they are not pure copyists of the French, but very distinct and unique protagonists of a maybe developing German bistronomic scene… Let’s see how Rickert is doing lately at Weinsinn…

André Rickert has undergone his initial apprenticeship at Thomas Bühner when the latter was still cooking in Dortmund. In the following years he became an Amador disciple, lately being part of Caro Baum’s team at the formidable Amesa in Mannheim. His cooking or better plating clearly speaks the Amador ‘language’ in that dishes are plated in a modern, precise and transparent manner to let the main product be in focus whereas all other ingredients are perfectly proportioned and balanced. Clearly, in a bistro-style ambiance like Weinsinn one cannot serve cutting high-end dishes like at Amador or Amesa but he comprises only to some extent and most visitors are pleasantly surprised to see such a modern cuisine in a wine bar...

Dinner


3 Gänge € 65 / 4 Gänge € 75 / 5 Gänge € 85 / 6 Gänge € 95
3 course € 65 / 4 course € 75 / 5 course € 85 / 6 course € 95

Greetings from the Chef


Vorspeisen
Starters

Mariniertes Kalb/ Kopfsalat / Pfifferlinge / Parmesan
Veal / chanterelles, lettuce, parmesan


Lachs / Gurke / Avokado / Rettich
Salmon / cucumber, avocado, raddish


Zwischengericht
Entremet

Meeresfrüchteravioli / Tomate / Basilikum
Sea food ravioli, tomato, basil


Hauptgerichte
Main dishes

Atlantik Rotbarsch / Fenchel / Safran / Paprika
Redfish / fennel, saffron, pepper


Lammrücken / Erbse / grüner Spargel / kleines Ragout
Saddle of lamb / pea, green asparagus, ragout


Greetings from the Chef


Dessert
Desserts

Himbeere / Pfirsich / Sauerampfer / Vanille
Raspberry / peach, vanilla, sorrel


Schwarzwälder Kirsch / Schokolade / Kirschwasser / Sorbet
Black Forest Cherry / chocolate, kirschwasser, sherbet


oder
or

Käse
cheese

Greetings from the Chef


The Wines

Mathias Schreiber: Our wine list now comprises more than 250 entries, including numerous big names, but also valuable insider secrets, thanks not least to the current generation of German winemakers.

We chose the following 6 wines, all German except for the last bottle. Le Reysse, however, is German-owned.


Weinsinn is Moving

Most likely, this was my last dinner at the Weinsinn at its current location. Weinsinn is closing its doors at its current location at the end of September and will reopen a few weeks later in the Weserstrasse, close to the Willy Brandt Platz. The 27 written on a blackboard at the bar of the Weinsinn at the night we were there indicated the number of remaining evenings left at the current location.

Picture: Weinsinn is Moving

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt, Germany

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home: Sparkling Wines of the World

Salon Tasting at Schiller‘s Home: Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, Vintage 2014 (2017)

Lunch and Beaujolais at Weinsinn in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Sauvignon Blanc in Austria – A Comparative Tasting with Falstaff's Peter Moser at Weinsinn in Frankfurt, Germany

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt, Germany

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine - Frankfurter Apfelweinlokale die noch selbst Keltern, Germany

The Best Restaurants in the Greater Frankfurt am Main Region, Germany

Wine in Frankfurt am Main? - Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt, Germany

Wednesday, August 30, 2017

Winemaker Dinner at Proof with Fred Merwarth, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, and Chef Austin Fausett, Washington DC, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller, Fred Merwarth, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, Chef Austin Fausett and Christian Schiller

Fred Merwarth, co-owner and winemaker of renowned Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in the Finger Lakes Region, was in Washington DC. Annette and I attended a winemaker dinner with Fred Merwarth at trendy restaurant/ wine bar Proof in downtown. Chef Austin Fausett built a super five-course tasting menu paired with the estate's beautiful wines, introduced by Winemaker Fred Merwarth.

Pictures: Proof

See also:
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA

Pictures: Fred Merwarth, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, with Chef Austin Fausett and Annette Schiller

Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard

Hermann Wiemer has been a viticulture and winemaking pioneer in New York since he emigrated from Bernkastel, Germany in the 1960s, and the winery today remains a leader in the Finger Lakes for both wine production and vine propagation.

Picture: Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, Christian Schiller and Hermann Wiemer at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle. See: The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA. For Weingut Clemens Busch, see: With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany. For Hermann J. Wiemer, see: German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes, USA

Picture: Fred Merwarth, Hermann J. Wiemer Vienyard, and his Wife in Seattle at the 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle. See. The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Hermann was born to make wine. His mother’s family had over 300 years of winemaking experience in the Mosel, and his father was responsible for restoring vines in that region after World War II. Hermann grew up learning to graft vines by hand with his father before attending prestigious German winemaking and viticultural institutions.

Pictures: Chatting before th Tasting

Since 2007, the winery has been run by Hermann’s longtime apprentice Fred Merwarth and the agronomist Oskar Bynke. Fred works to further Hermann’s vision by precise and thorough vineyard management and winemaking, while Oskar focuses on winery operations.

Pictures: The Wine-pairing Dinner

The wines of Hermann J. Wiemer are stunning, pure Rieslings that speak of Seneca Lake with more than a little reference to the Mosel. The grapes are grown in three distinct estate vineyards that take advantage of the various microclimates and aspects of the western shore of Seneca Lake. The original 1976 vineyard, HJW, is where the winery resides. The Josef and Magdalena vineyards are about 10 miles north and differ greatly in slope, soil, and vine age. From the Dry Riesling which blends the vineyards together to the single vineyard offerings, Hermann J. Wiemer deserves a place amongst the great wines of not only America but also the world.

See also:
Ranking 12 Rieslings: Finger Lakes (USA) versus Germany
Celebrating the Release of the Finger Lakes 2011 Riesling in Washington DC, USA

Pictures: Proof General Manager Morgan Fausett and Proof Chef Austin Fausett with Christian Schiller

The Dinner


Sweetbread & Sweet Corn Eloté
Cuveé Brut, 2011, Finger Lakes, New York


Garlic Soup
green onion, spot prawns, pumpkin seed oil
Dry Riesling, 2015, Finger Lakes, New York


Skate Wing
cauliflower risotto, capers, sultanas, bergamont sauce
Gewurztraminer, 2016, Finger Lakes, New York


Heirloom Tomato Panzanella
beef consummé, benton's ham, red onion, parmesean
Riesling, Magdalena Vineyard, 2015, Finger Lakes, New York


Smoked Porchetta
Anson Mills rosemary polenta, ragu sauce
Cabernet Franc, 2015, Finger Lakes, New York


Coconut Panna Cotta
hibiscus caviar, kiwi & pineapple sorbet
Riesling, "Noble Select," Magdalena Vineyard, 2015


Thanks

Thanks Morgan, Austin and Fred for world class service, food and wine.

Pictures: Bye-bye

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home: Sparkling Wines of the World

Salon Tasting at Schiller‘s Home: Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, Vintage 2014 (2017)

Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA

German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes, USA 

Ranking 12 Rieslings: Finger Lakes (USA) versus Germany

Celebrating the Release of the Finger Lakes 2011 Riesling in Washington DC, USA