From June 16 to July 3, 2025, Annette and I spent time in wine country Italy, by car.
For an overview of the whole trip. go here: Wine Country Italy - Lake Como, Tuscany, Alto Adige - in the Summer of 2025
First Stop: Villa Almana in Cernobbio at Lake Como, Lombardia
Lake Como Travel: Lake Como, locally known as Lago di Como or Lario, is one of Italy’s most magical destinations - a place where alpine beauty meets Italian elegance.
Located in Lombardy, just north of Milan, this stunning lake has always enchanted travelers with its deep blue waters, dramatic mountain scenery, postcard-perfect towns (like Como, Bellagio, and Varenna) and villas (Villa Balbianello, Villa Melzi, etc.).
Shaped by ancient glaciers and known for its distinctive “Y” form, Lake Como is the third-largest lake in Italy and one of the deepest in Europe.
Northern Italy's Lakes: Garda, Como, Maggiore (Everett Potter's Travel Report)
To see another side of northern Italy, beyond its well-known cities
like Milan, Venice, and Turin, travel to the country’s Lakes District.
Reaching from Piedmont to the Veneto, the main laghi—Como, Maggiore, and Garda—offer stunning settings and new ways to learn about Italy’s richly layered past.
Throughout
history, the lakes’ position close to the Alps made them strategic
prizes for empire builders; their beauty, blending Alpine and
Mediterranean scenery, ensured their status as holiday boltholes for
generations of elites. Julius Caesar came and conquered Lake Como;
thousands of years later, George Clooney appeared, adding a new luster
to the area. Although Como may be the best known, it’s only part of the
Italian lake experience. There’s Maggiore and Garda, along with a
variety of smaller lakes to visit, with each destination presenting a
distinct vibe, micro-climate, and localized cuisine.
Franciacorta and Bardolino
There are 2 wine region with international relevance in the area:
wine-searcher: The Franciacorta wine region is located in the Brescia province, in
the hills immediately southeast of the foot of Lake Iseo.
Although relatively unknown in global terms, Franciacorta is widely regarded as Italy's finest sparkling wine. Due respect is still paid to the traditional and better-known classics Moscato d'Asti and Prosecco, but these lighter-hearted styles are aimed at straightforward enjoyment rather than complexity or finesse.
wine searcher: Bardolino is a light red wine made on the eastern shores of Lake Garda, in the Veneto region of north-eastern Italy. Its DOC title was granted in 1968.
Wines made in the original, traditional vineyard areas, close to the lakeside town of Bardolino itself, are designated as Classico. The slightly more robust, stronger Bardolino Superiore wines were granted independent DOCG status in 2001.
Like its more famous neighbor, Valpolicella, the wine is made from a blend of Corvina and Rondinella.
Villa Almana
Breathtaking panoramic view over lake Como, infinity pool, olive trees
and beautiful flowers in the garden, sunset on a terrace with a glass of
good Italian wine… Sounds tempting, doesn’t it? Then you are very
welcome to Villa Almana - a place to relax and become a true aesthetic
lover.
We stayed 2 nights at Villa Almana in Cernobbio, at the top of the hills.
Boat Trip to Como
Apero in Rovenna, a little village further up the hills.
Wine on the Terrace of Villa Almana
Wine Country Italy - Lake Como, Tuscany, Alto Adige - in the Summer of 2025
From June 16 to July 3, 2025, Annette and I spent time in wine country Italy, by car.
For an overview, go to: Wine Country Italy - Lake Como, Tuscany, Alto Adige - in the Summer of 2025
Postings
Wine Country Italy - Lake Como, Tuscany, Alto Adige - in the Summer of 2025
From June 16 to July 3, 2025, Annette and I spent time in wine country Italy, by car.
First Stop: Villa Almana in Cernobbio at Lake Como, Lombardia
Villa Almana
We stayed 2 nights at Villa Almana in Cernobbio, at the top of the hills.
Boat Trip to Como
Apero in Rovenna, a little village further up the hills.
Wine on the Terrace of Villa Almana
Second Stop: Bolgheri (Tuscany)
This was an organized group tour, led by wine journalist Giuseppe Lauria.
Relais di Biserno
We stayed 4 nights at Relais di Biserno, which is part of Tenuta di Biserno.
Day 1 in Bolgheri
We drove from Lake Como du Bolgheri, checked in, relaxed at the pool and had dinner at La Tana del Pirata in Marina di Castagneto Carducci.
Dinner at La Tana del Pirata in Marina di Castagneto Carducci
Day 2 in Bolgheri
Breakfast at Relais di Biserno
Tenuta Argentiera
The flagship Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore is a blend typically
of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a small portion of Cabernet Franc.
Ventaglio wine-searcher average price: Euro 315
Winery tour and tasting.
Lunch
Osteria Magona
Michelin: Amidst vineyards and the renowned cypress avenue, Osteria Magona is a
must-visit for meat enthusiasts and Tuscan regional cuisine aficionados.
Impeccable are the famous soups, from ribollita to pappa al pomodoro,
alongside gnudi and fresh pastas. The wine list offers ample room to
various Bolgheri labels.
We run into Marco Balsimelli, the new Production Director of Ornellaia
and Masseto, following the departure of Axel Heinz.
La Macchiole
La
Macchiole was founded in 1983 by a young couple, Eugenio Campolmi and
Cinzia Merli. They released their first vintage in 1987, with the first
release of the flagship Paleo released in 1989.
At the time,
Paleo was a Bordeaux blend, but in the 1990s, La Macchiole began to move
toward making varietal wines. Campolmi passed away in 2002, and the
estate has been run by Merli since.
Vineyard tour, cellar tour and tasting.
Tenuta del Nicchio: Il Nicchio and Lodovico
We went for dinner to Locanda dell' Aioncino, close to the Relais di Beserno. Preceding dinner was a tour of the Lodovico vineyard of Tenuta del Nicchio with Michela of Tenuta del Nicchio. At the dinner table we then tasted with Michela the two flagship wines of Tenuta del Nicchio, the latest project of Lodovico Antinori and his daughter Sophia, the 2021 Lodovico (Euro 500) and the 2021 Il Nicchio (Euro 280).
Lodovico Vineyard
Tasting 2021 Lodovico (Euro 500) and the 2021 Il Nicchio (Euro 280) at Locanda dell' Aioncino with Michela of Tenuta del Nicchio
Dinner at Locanda dell' Aioncino
Day 3 in Bolgheri
Tasting the Wines of Tenuta di Biserno at Relais di Biserno
Tenuta San Guido
Tenuta San Guido is much better known by the name of its most famous wine – Sassicaia. It is located in the Tuscan region of Maremma, and is has its own single-estate DOC appellation (Bolgheri Sassicaia) applied to its flagship label.
Sassicaia, one of the original Super Tuscan wines, is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon with a small amount of Cabernet Franc. It is known for its supple texture, elegance and perfume.
Lunch at Enoteca San Guido
Ornellaia
Ornellaia is one of the foremost producers in the Bolgheri appellation on the coast of Tuscany. It is particularly known for making one of Italy's most famous and expensive wines, which shares the same name.
The
company was founded in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori, with the
first vintage in 1985. From 2002 to 2005 the estate was co-owned by
Robert Mondavi and Marchesi De Frescobaldi but, since 2005 Frescobaldi
has owned it outright, along with the now separate estate Masseto.
Vineyard tour, cellar tour and tasting.
Dinner at La Pinetta (1 Star Michelin)
Michelin: By car you drive through a pine wood and practically reach the water's
edge, facing a horizon of beach, sea and waves, to the left you’ll
notice a small low house that almost looks like an ordinary beach
establishment: actually, it is the historical fish restaurant of the
Zazzeri family, Daniele in the kitchen and Andrea in the dining room.
Always true to themselves, without any need to look for sudden modern
changes of direction, the simplicity of the cuisine, which matches the
vintage style of the rooms, is their absolute direction, both in the
pairings and in the ultra-classic cooking techniques; as long as the
quality of the fish (mostly local) and the comforting quality of the end
result remain unchanged, it will always be a pleasure to recommend this
place above the fashions.
Day 4 in Bolgheri
Grattamacco
Lunch at La Tana del Pirata in Marina di Castagneto Carducci
7- course Dinner on a Long Table in the Streets of Bolgheri
Third Stop: Chianti Classico
We spent 4 days in the Chianti Classico Region.
Day 1 in Chianti Classico
We drove from Bolgheri to Chianti Classico.
Villa de' Ricci Rignana/ Fattoria di Rignana
We stayed 3 nights at Villa de' Ricci Rignana/ Fattoria di Rignana, close to Greve and Panzano, which used to be one unit but was devided recently due to family issues.
This
place is truly a paradise. Tucked away from towns, it’s a little escape
in the rolling hills. The whole villa is very clean and welcoming. And
there is a tasty restaurant on the property so you don’t have to leave! (Trip Advisor)
La Cantinetta di Rignana Ristaurante
La Cantinetta di Rignana Ristaurante is part of the Rignana complex. It is a wonderful restaurant with a breathtaking view. We had dinner twice there (and would have had dinner three times there, but they close on Tuesdays).
Day 2 in Chianti Classico
Greve
Badia a Coltibuono
Barone Ricasoli
Villa de' Ricci Rignana/ Fattoria di Rignana
La Cantinetta di Rignana Ristaurante
Day 3 in Chianti Classico
Fattoria di Rignana
Tasting and cellar tour with owner/ winemaker Cosimo Gericke.
Nina in Chianti: Rignana is a charming winery on the north-western edge of Panzano in
Chianti, on the border with Barberino Tavarnelle. This idyllic vineyard
is not only known for its breathtaking location, but also for its
excellent wines. Cosimo Gericke, the current owner, took over the winery
from his father at the end of the 1990s. He acquired the winery at the
end of the 1960s and laid the foundations for the outstanding wines that
characterize Rignana today. Cosimo continues this tradition with great
passion and dedication.
Antinori nel Chianti Classico Winery
The Antinori family has been making wine since 1385, when Giovanni di
Piero Antinori became a member of the Florentine Winemakers’ Guild. The cutting edge Antinori nel Chianti Classico Winery in the Tuscan heartland opened in 2012 after 7 years of construction. Using locally sourced materials, it blends into the landscape both
visually and environmentally: surrounded by olive groves and oak trees,
its roof covered in vineyards, the building appears as two graceful
slits in the hillside; within, gravity-flow vinification and naturally
cool cellars reduce energy consumption. It forms the headquarters of
Marchesi Antinori.
Isole e Olena
Fattoria Nittardi
Badia a Passignano
Dinner at Locanda di Poggio al Sole
Fourth Stop: (Brunello di) Montalcino and (Vino Nobile di) Montepulciano
Azienda Agricola Le Ragnaie
We stayed 2 nights at Azienda Agricola Le Ragnaie, a leading producer of Brunello di Montalcino, 3 or so miles away from the village of Montalcino.
Day 1
Azienda Agricola Le Ragnaie
Altesino
Argiano
Castello Banfi
Ristorante Sala dei Grappoli and Chef Dominico Francone (1 Star Michelin)
Pieve di Santa Restituta (Angelo Gaja)
Dinner in Montalcino at La Sosta Bistrot and Wine Bar
Day 2
Montepulciano
Cantine Conducci in the Center of the Village of Montepulciano
Our host was Luca De Ferrari, who showed us around.
Poliziano
Dinner in Montalcino at Teverna Grappolo Blu (Bib Gourmand Michelin)
Michelin: Accessed via a steep, narrow flight of steps, this restaurant boasts a
traditional and friendly ambience. The cuisine is traditionally Tuscan
(pici pasta with ragu and tripe are among the most popular dishes on the
menu), while the interesting wine list includes a selection of Brunello
wines arranged by year, as well as some top-quality vintage options
which will delight wine-enthusiasts. The owner oversees the informal yet
attentive service.
Fifth Stop: Lana in Alto Aldige
We drove from Montalcino in Tuscany to Lana in Alto Aldige and checked in at Hotel im Tiefenbrunn in Lana. we stayed there for 3 nights.
Hotel Im Tiefenbrunn in Lana
Day 1 in Alto Adige (Lana)
Weinkelterei Meran
Before dinner, we had a glass of sparkling wine at the Weinkelterei Meran.
Dinner at Restaurant Sissy (1 Star Michelin)
Michelin: Situated just outside the pedestrianised area of beautiful Merano, the
main dining room of this restaurant has a welcoming feel and is
decorated in attractive Art-Nouveau style. Here, owner-chef Andrea
Fenoglio divides his time between the kitchen and front of house so that
he can take time to chat with guests. His cuisine has solid classic
foundations, with a good choice of dishes on the à la carte, plus a
surprise tasting menu (Settepiatti ) which changes every year (as does
the ceramic tableware on which it is served!). The cuisine is comforting
and full of generous flavours, to which Fenoglio adds a light modern
touch with his carefully chosen accompaniments and presentation.
Whatever dish you choose, you can be sure of finding the perfect wine
pairing for your meal on the skilfully constructed wine list.
Day 2 in Alto Aldige (Lana)
Meran
Up in the Mountains (by Car)
Up in the Mountains (by Cable Car and Chair Lift)
Light Dinner at Hotel im Tiefenbrunn in Lana
Day 3 in Alto Aldige (Lana)
Brixen
Kloster Neustift
Falstaff: Kloster Neustift is one of the oldest wineries in the world, as wine was
already being produced here in 1142. Sylvaner, Kerner, Müller-Thurgau,
Riesling and Veltliner can be found in the Brixen valley basin at
altitudes of 600 to 850 meters. Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio and
Sauvignon Blanc are also cultivated. Blauburgunder, Rosenmuskateller and
Vernatsch grow in Girlan, Lagrein and St. Magdalener in Bozen. The best
grapes from the Stiftskellerei are used for the "Praepositus" wines,
while the grapes for two single-vineyard wines made from Sylvaner and
Pinot Noir grow in Neustift and Girlan.
Dinner in the Mountains at Restaurant Appolonia (Bib Gourmand Michelin)
Michelin: Following a road that twists and turns uphill, surrounded at first by
vineyards and fruit trees and then by woodland, you climb to an altitude
of 900m to reach this restaurant run by the Geiser family, who have
been serving simple yet delicious regional (and Italian) cuisine here
for three generations. With a focus on seasonal ingredients from the
Alto Adige, the menus feature specialities such as potato rosti with
beetroot, baked pumpkin, broccoli and porcini mushroom cream, as well as
home-made tarts and sorbets. The beautiful views take in Terlano in the
middle of the valley and the majestic Dolomites (including Sciliar,
Catinaccio and Latemar) in the distance.
Day 4 in Alto Adige (Bozen)
Parkhotel Laurien in Bozen
In the morning we drove from Lana to Bozen and checked in at the Parkhotel Laurien, right in the center of Bozen.
Bozen
Klosterkelterei Muri Gries in Bozen
Muri-gries: MURI-GRIES is more than a winery. Within its historical walls, the daily
round is guided by monastery life in combination with work in a busy
cellar and the work on its own 35-hectare wine estate with vineyards in
the best locations in and around Bolzano. History brought all this
together more than a century ago. The routines in the vineyard and the
cellar have always gone hand in hand. The work involved is highly
specialized. At MURI-GRIES, the driving force is the desire to keep
learning and continually enhance the quality of every single wine.
Ice Cream at Avalon
Since 1981, Paolo Coletto has been producing 100% handmade ice cream! 🍨
Without the use of powdered milk, artificial flavours, artificial colours or hydrogenated vegetable fats. The Avalon ice-cream parlour awaits you with over thirty different flavours, each prepared with extraordinary care and passion. Almost all of them are gluten-free, with a large selection of lactose-free and vegan flavours.
Come and enjoy a unique experience!
Toma by Lisa
Toma by Lisa became our favorite wine bar in Bozen, close to ...
...the well-known Fischbaenke.
Dinner at Restaurant Lowengrube (Michelin-listed)
Michelin: This building has been home to a restaurant since the 16C, making it one
of the oldest in Bolzano. Today, it houses an elegant restaurant that
serves a combination of traditional Alpine cuisine and classic Italian
dishes with a contemporary twist, such as carbonara tortelloni filled
with parmesan cream and crispy bacon. The attractive wine cellar boasts a
selection of approximately 1 000 wines from the region and elsewhere in
Italy, as well as a choice of labels from further afield.
After dinner, the sommelier showed us the impressive wine cellar.
Last Glass of Wine of the Day at Parkhotel Laurien
Day 5 in Alto Adige (Bozen)
Firadori (wine-searcher)
Foradori is a wine estate in the Dolomites region of northern Italy, particularly known for its red wines from the Teroldego
variety. The estate dates back to 1901, and has been owned by the
Foradori family since 1939. Elisabetta Foradori has made the wine since
1984, and currently oversees the estate although children Theo, Myrtha and Emilio Zierock are progressively taking a more active role in the family business.
The
overall estate covers 24 hectares (59 acres) of owned and eight
hectares (20 acres) of leased vineyards in multiple small plots around
the Campo Rotaliano plain in the dramatic Trento-Alto Adige region, roughly 100km (60 miles) north of Verona.
Roughly three-quarters of the Foradori vineyards are planted with the red Teroldego. The rest are planted to Manzoni Bianco, with small amounts of Nosiola and Pinot Grigio.
Foridori's vineyards have been farmed biodynamically since 2002 and were certified biodynamic by Demeter in 2009.
All of Foridori's wines are released as IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti. The range is led by two Teroldego cuvées: Foridori and Granato.
Foradori
is sourced from around ten hectares (25 acres) of vineyards on sandier
soils, and is aged in oak and cement tanks for 12 months. Granato, which
means pomegranate, comes from four hectares (10 acres) of old pergola
vineyards on more stony soils, and is aged in wood for 15 months.
The
estate also makes four other Teroldego wines which are aged on their
skins in amphorae, and varietal wines from Manzoni Bianco, Nosiola and
Pinot Grigio.
Foradori's winemaking follows a philosophy of minimal intervention, which includes the use of indigenous yeasts,
no temperature control and bottling without filtration. Production
reaches around 160,000 bottles per year, over half of which is the
Foradori cuvee.
Since 2014, the wines have been made by Foradori's son Emilio Zierock.
Alois Lageder
wine-searcher: Alois Lageder is a renowned wine producer in Alto Adige,
Italy's northernmost wine region. The estate was established in 1823
and has been family owned and operated since. It makes a wide range of
wines from both native and international grape varieties, including Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Schiava and Lagrein.
The estate consists of around 110 hectares (272 acres) of vineyard land across the region, including plots in Magrè, Cortaccia, Bolzano,
San Michele and Appiano. This diversity of vineyard, which covers a
vast range of exposures, soils, and mesoclimates, means that Alois
Lageder can have a wide range of grape varieties, depending on the
terroir of the individual site.
The main range includes three
product lines. The top wines (Masterpieces) come from some of Lageder's
best vineyard sites. The selection features mostly single variety wines,
though the intriguing Casòn duo are a Viognier-Petit Manseng, and a Tannat-based red blend.
To mark the 30th anniversary of the Löwengang Chardonnay and
Cabernet wines, special editions were bottled. These are blends of the
2013, 2014 and 2015 vintages.
Below this sits a range of
single-vineyard wines from other vineyard sites, known as Compositions.
There are around eight whites and three reds.
Thirdly comes the
Classical Grape Varieties line of whites and reds, plus a rosé made from
Lagrein. Most, but not all are monovarietal bottlings. The grapes are
sourced from across the estate.
Alois Lageder also owns a pair of subsidiary brands, Riff and Terra Alpina. The company works with partner growers to source the fruit for these wines.
Cantina Kurtatsch
Weingut Hofstaetter
Elena Walch
Manincor
tasteatlas.com: Manincor is a family-owned winery located in Kaltern, in the Alto
Adige (South Tyrol) region of Italy. The estate's history dates back to
1608, and it is currently managed by Count Michael Goëss-Enzenberg and
his wife Sophie, who took over in 1991.
The
winery spans approximately 50 hectares of vineyards, cultivating
varieties such as Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Lagrein,
Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Manincor is dedicated to biodynamic
farming, believing that maintaining natural balance is essential for
producing high-quality wines.
The winery's
cellar is uniquely situated beneath the vineyards, minimizing
environmental impact and allowing for gravitational wine flow during
production. This combination of traditional values and modern technology
enables Manincor to craft wines that truly reflect the character of
South Tyrol's terroir.
Light Dinner at Toma by Lisa
Day 6 in Alto Adige
Kellerei Terlan
Dolomites
Dinner at Restaurant Voegele in Bozen (Bib Gourmand Michelin)
Michelin: This restaurant is a Bolzano institution. It is a typical inn whose
origins are lost in the mists of time, and is still furnished in
traditional Biedermeier - style. The menu focuses on regional cuisine,
with an occasional hint of the Mediterranean.
Post-dinner Wine at Toma by Lisa
Last Wine at Parkhotel Laurien
Day 7 in Alto Adige (Bozen)
Final breakfast before returning home to Frankfurt.
I live in the greater Washington DC (US) and Frankfurt am Main (Germany) areas and write about wine. I am a member of the FIJEV (International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers). Before starting to write about wine in 2009, I was for almost 30 years an economist at the International Monetary Fund (IMF). I am currently in Washington DC.