Austria
2023 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, May 28 -
Thursday, June 08, 2023. We toured Austria for 12 days, starting and
ending in Vienna: Wien, Wagram, Carnuntum, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wien.
For
international wine lovers the Wachau is probably the best known wine
region in Niederösterreich, specializing in dry Riesling and Grüner
Veltliner. It is a tiny sub wine region and the westernmost wine
producing region with only 3% of Austria’s wine production. It is
incredibly beautiful. The steep terraced vineyards straddle the Danube
river for about 16 kilometres. The Wachau came up with its own
classification system for their dry wines: Steinfeder for wines up to
11.5% alc, Federspiel for wines between 11.5-12.5 % alc, and Smaragd for
wines with a minimum of 12.5% alc. The Wachau is a UNESCO world
heritage site. The Kremstal is sandwiched between the Wachau and the
larger Kamptal.
At Weingut F.X. Pichler, we were received by Lucas Pichler. The visit consisted of a cellar tour and a seated tasting in the modern tasting room with a breathtaking view.
Weingut F.X. Pichler wines are widely available in the USA through Peter Weygandt.
Weingut F.X. Pichler, Dürnstein, Wachau, Niederösterreich
This family estate was founded in 1898 in Oberloiben and has since developed a reputation as one of the best Grüner Veltliner and Riesling specialists world-wide. In 1928 Franz Pichler sen. started to diligently study the quality of vineyards and individual vines and started to create his own clones. He wrote down his observations in a small notebook. Then he identified the best vines in each vineyard and choose to grow new vines from these plants for replanting. He continued to do this until 1952 and this Massal selection laid the foundation stone for the extraordinary quality of the F.X. Pichler wines.
Franz Xaver (FX) took over the estate in 1971 and his son Lucas joined the winery team in 1996, taking over winemaking at the estate in 1999. Since 2009 Lucas Pichler and his wife Johanna, who comes from a winemaker family in Germany’s Rheinhessen wine region, are at the helm of the estate.
Winery F.X. Pichler has 55 acres of vineyards, most of them in very steep terraces following the Danube river in the most famous sites in Loiben and Dürnstein. Robert Parker once described the estate as follows: ‘the Château Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbercht, of the Wachau’. In September 2022 wine critic James Suckling awarded the F.X. Pichler Riesling, Wachau, Ried Kellerberg 2021 with 100 points.
Icons of Precision: F.X. Pichler
Superlative Riesling and Grüner Veltliner from a stellar 2021 Austrian vintage.
Lucas Pichler surveys icons in the making.
This week, we’re
returning to Austria’s stellar 2021 vintage and the magical Wachau, this
time represented by the inimitable wines of F.X. Pichler.
If a thorough understanding of the land is the key to unlocking the
secrets of terroir, then Franz Xavier (F.X.) Pichler and his son Lucas
have certainly found it. The Pichler family is known around the world
for their singular focus on making wines that are precise, authentic
interpretations of the region’s varied landscape.
The family’s success is based on a fairly straightforward philosophy:
move the grapes as little as possible, make no mistakes, avoid fining,
and mature the wine according to variety and character.
The hallmarks of F.X. Pichler wines have all been heightened by the
exceptional 2021 harvest: clean and concentrated flavors and aromas, a
densely structured palate, and long aging potential. These are certain
to be iconic wines from an already iconic producer, and they are a
pleasure to drink from day one.
The Pichler family estate was
founded in 1898, but it was undoubtedly F.X.’s father—also Franz—who set
the standard for the family’s drive to produce excellent wines.
Starting in 1928, Franz senior diligently recorded his observations on
the growth and quality of the estate’s individual vines in a notebook, a
practice he continued until 1952. This meticulousness allowed him to
take cuttings from the best producing vines—in particular, Grüner
Veltliner—to replant in new vineyards, a practice known as selection
massale.
When F.X. took over in 1971, the estate had just a
modest three hectares of vines in Dürnstein but was already known as a
specialist in Grüner Veltliner. The family’s quality-conscious practices
have continued to this day, with the estate producing exceptional wines
from 20 hectares of distinctive sites divided equally between Grüner
Veltliner and Riesling.
Around 35 percent of the vines grow on
steep, bedrock terraces with dry stone walls that can only be worked by
hand. It is here where decades of intuition have been honed to transform
these special sites into remarkable wines.
Special attention is
given to employing sustainable approaches. In 2020, the estate’s
practices from harvest to bottling were certified sustainable by the
Austrian Winegrower’s Association. The family is also in the process of
transitioning to organic viticulture and expects to become fully
certified from the 2022 vintage.
Since 2009, the daily management
of the estate has been overseen by F.X.’s son Lucas and his wife
Johanna, but F.X. and his wife Rudolfine remain actively involved and
are frequent presences in the vineyards and the cellar. “We want to make
wines that are a true reflection of the year, the soil and the specific
microclimate of the Wachau. Every wine should be unique and
distinctive,” says F.X.
Beginning where it all started with
Grüner Veltliner, the F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Loibner 2021 is on
the lighter end of the textural spectrum but with no loss of
distinction. Produced from vineyards comprised of alluvial sand and
gravel soils along the Danube River, this wine is elegant in structure
and full of bright acidity and aromatic fruit character.
One of
the oldest vineyards in the Wachau, Klostersatz was once cultivated by
monks from Bavarian and Salzburg monasteries. It has a remarkably deep
soil composition of fine sand and gravel that is ideal for Grüner
Veltliner. The F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Loibner Ried Klostersatz
2021 is nimble on the palate with notes of yellow and green apple,
yellow tropical fruit, gentle minerality, and the signature Veltliner
note of white pepper. A delightful representation of both the variety
and the site.
From predominantly younger, organically farmed and
terraced mountain vineyard plots around the village of Dürnstein, the
F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Dürnsteiner 2021 is sleek and inviting.
Bright notes of meadow grass, green apple, and crushed stone form a
textural frame that conveys a lively energy right through to a saline
finish.
Loibenberg is one of the steepest and largest continuous
single vineyard sites in the region. The austere bedrock soils capture
warmth during the day and radiate heat back into the vineyard at night,
resulting in rich, bold, and elegant wines. The F.X. Pichler Grüner
Veltliner Ried Loibenberg 2021 is intense, mineral rich, and juicy,
throwing grassy and herbal notes that complement a lingering palate of
mineral and flint.
At the very eastern end of the Wachau is
Steinertal, a site that starts as a rift and broadens into a
south-facing amphitheater. The site capture plenty of sunshine and a
nearby forest sends in a nocturnal breeze to cool things down, a
slow-growing process that yields flavorful grapes. The F.X. Pichler
Grüner Veltliner Ried Steinertal 2021 is elegant and rich with notes of
papaya, passion fruit, pineapple, and star fruit, buffeted by smoky
stone overtones. Velvety and round on the palate, with fine acidity and a
subtle spiciness on the finish.
Kellerberg is arguably the best
single vineyard in the Wachau, with steep inclines, barren bedrock
terraces, and an exceptional microclimate. Early morning sunshine
facilitates grape ripening and at night, cool air from the surrounding
woods help retain aromatic freshness and provide complex texture and
finely nuanced minerality. The Grüner Veltliner Ried Kellerberg 2021 is a
luscious portrayal of fruit that is deftly dealt with the typical light
touch of the estate. Notes of honeydew melon, plums, overripe apricots,
mango, passion fruit, flint, and a hint of tobacco leaf. Juicy on the
palate but with plenty of finesse and balance. Precise minerality and a
lively acidity leans into a very long and spicy finish.
On the
Riesling side of the estate, we return to the deep and gravely soils of
Klostersatz, from which the F.X. Pichler Riesling Ried Klostersatz 2021
shows off a fine bouquet of yellow fruit, a hint of stone fruit, and
delicate green tobacco spiciness. On the palate, juicy and complex with
mineral nuances and a very good lengthy finish.
From the steep
and rocky terraces of Loibenberg, the F.X. Pichler Riesling Ried
Loibenberg 2021 is highly complex and subtly lush, with notes of
just-ripe stone fruit and mango that are accompanied by flint and wet
stone. Precisely balanced on the palate, with taut acidity that’s
countered by ripe fruit and mineral freshness.
Full of racy
freshness, the F.X. Pichler Riesling Ried Steinertal 2021 is a pure
expression of the comparatively cool Steinertal site: barren and sandy
topsoil over a gneiss base. Aromas of lemon, grapefruit, and white peach
present a warm welcome. A lively palate is ready with an embrace of
citrus fruit, stone fruit, green apple, subtle herbal notes, and echoes
of wet stone.
And from the storied and rocky terraces of
Kellerberg, the F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Ried Kellerberg 2021 is a
wine of striking character. On the nose, ripe stone fruit, Mirabelle
plums, pineapple, flinty wet stone, a hint of blossom honey, and herbal
spice. An intricate structure on the palate of ripe fruit, wet stone,
flint, subtle spice, and bright acidity. A mineral-driven and lengthy
finish reflects the weather-beaten and barren soils and plenty of
promise for the future.
Find more details about these wines
below, including tasting notes and pricing. Click on a wine to place an
order, or shop the Icons of Precision: F.X. Pichler collection on our
website.
As always, if you have any questions or would like to place an order
with our team, please call 202.362.9463 or email us.
Cheers,
Peter Weygandt & Warren Leonard
Weygandt Wines
Vintage 2011 Tasting with Lucas Pichler, Weingut F.X. Pichler, at the Koenigsmuehle in Rheinhessen, Germany
Pictures: Vintage 2011 Tasting with Lucas Pichler, Weingut F.X. Pichler, with Dirk Wuertz at his Koenigsmuehle in Rheinhessen, Austria/Germany
Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler
Arriving
Introduction
Cellar Tour
Tasting with a View
Bye-bye
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - Published and Forthcoming Postings
ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North
Announcement: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - 12 Days: May 28 - June 08, 2023
The Wines of Austria -
Presentation by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2021
American Wine Society National Conference in Atlantic City
Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner
Summary: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria
Dinner at an Iconic Beisl in Vienna: Griechenbeisl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour of the
Monastery/ Palace Klosterneuburg and of the Weingut Klosterneuburg, with
Wine Tasting - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz at Plachutta in der Wollzeile,
Vienna. Plachutta is more than a Restaurant: it is a Vienna Institution -
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
After Dinner Drinks at Vis-a-Vis Wine Bar, Vienna - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vienna: Viaker City Tour and Tour of Schloss Schönbrunn - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Die Seejungfrau in Jois at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leo Hillinger, Burgenland, with Jakob Scharner, Diplom-Sommelier - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Netzl, Carnuntum, with Franz, Christine and Christina Netzl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Mole West at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and
Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Umathum, Burgenland, with Joseph Umathum - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
2 Nights at Schloss Halbturn at Lake Neusiedl: Sekt Reception and two Dinners - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steindorfer, Burgenland, with Ernst and Roland Steindorfer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Light Lunch at
Gránátos Étterem at Esterházy Kástely in Fertöd, Hungary: Hungarian
Goulash Soup and Esterházy Cake - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
At the Liszt House in
Raiding, where the Great Pianist, Romantic Composer and Conductor was
Born - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Straka, Rechnitz, Burgenland, with Thomas Straka - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
High-end Sleeping and
Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, Burgenland, with Julia Wachter - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Jalits, Burgenland, with Mathias Jalits - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at
Weingut Neumeister, Straden, Vulkanland, Steiermark, with Christoph Neumeister - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner with a View at Weinrefugium Brolli, Steiermark - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sattlerhof, Steiermark, with Justė Sattler - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark, with Maria Wohlmuth - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
"Brettljause" and Wine at Buschenschank Trummer, Weingut Trummer, with Jürgen Trummer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Polz, Strass, Südsteiermark, with Sommelier Philipp Heidenbauer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Tement, Steiermark, with Sommelier Andy Bodor and Manfred and Heidi Tement - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
"Steierisches Backhendl"-Lunch at Weingut Tement/ Restaurant Magnothek, Südsteiermark - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Gustav Mahler, Sinfonie Nr. 3, at Graz Opera, Steiermark - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
In Eisenstadt, Burgenland: Tour at Haydn House, Lunch at Restaurant Henrici, Tour at Esterhazy Castle - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
At Loisium Wine &
Spa Resort Langenlois, Kamptal: Impromptu Steininger Sekt Reception with Eva Steininger and Klaus Wittauer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy
WineTours
Wine-pairing Dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmeyer (14.5/20 Points Gault Millau) - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steininger, Kamptal, with Brigitta Steininger - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, with Alwin Jurtschitsch - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Austrian Beer and Wiener Schnitzel at Fiakerwirt in Langenlois - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, with Markus Huber - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Tegernseerhof, Wachau, with Owner/ Winemaker Martin Mittelbach - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein, Wachau - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
at Weingut Nigl with Martin Nigl and Wine-pairing Dinner at Restaurant Nigl (14/20 Points Gault Millau) with Chef Bertram Nigl, Senftenberg,
Kremstal - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Matthias Hager, Kamptal, with Doris Hager
Lunch at Gasthaus Gutmann, Zöbing, Kamptal
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, with Stefan Tabery
2 Days in Dürnstein, Wachau, at Hotel Richard Löwenherz
Farewell Dinner at Café Central in Vienna