Monday, October 31, 2016

The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC

Picture: Annette Schiller at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC with the German Wine Society (DC Chapter): The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling

After a long absence, the German Wine Society (GWS - Washington DC Chapter) returned to Old Europe Restaurant in Georgetown.

Annette Schiller, President of ombiasy WineTours and long-standing member of the GWS, conducted a tasting entitled: “The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling.”

Pictures: Carl Willner, President of the German Wine Society (DC Chapter) Opening the Event

Annette presented 3 red wines, 1 Sekt (sparkling wine) and 6 dry and 1 “halbtrocken” white wines from 10 out of the 13 wine regions in Germany. The tasting also included 2 Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru GG wines.

Germany is increasingly becoming known as a serious red wine producer; Germany is the #3 producer world-wide of Pinot-Noir (= Spätburguder).

Germans have always been obsessed with sparkling wines: 1 out of 4 sparklers produced in the world is consumed in Germany; and Germany is home to the second largest sparkling wine producer world-wide.

Germany is known for its Rieslings. Yes, it is the #1 Riesling producer world-wide, but it is also the #1 Pinot-Blanc (Weissburgunder) and #2 Pinot-Gris (Grauburgunder) producer. And, today, most of the white wines produced in Germany are dry.

All presented winemakers, Annette knows personally. She has visited all of them on one of the wine tours to Germany (Germany-East, Germany-South and Germany-Nord). Annette shared memories from these visits.

Pictures: The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC

In terms of food, Cindy O. Herold, Chef and Owner of Old Europe Restaurant, spoiled us with a sumptuous Wine Tasting Buffet, composed of a variety of typical German dishes:

* German bread basket presented with “Kräuterbutter”-garlic herb butter and “Schmalz”,
* assorted cheese platter with house made “Obazda”-Bavarian style beer cheese,
* fresh fruits and crackers,
* “Bunte Schnittchen”-assorted cold cut canapes presented with deviled eggs,
* “Fleischpflanzl”-Bavarian style bite size meatballs garnished with cornichons,
* “Kartoffelpuffer”-potato pancakes served with apple sauce and sour cream,
* Germany’s most loved sausages: Bratwurst, Bauernwurst, Weißwurst, Knockwurst and Debreziner Wurst presented with sauerkraut, apple red cabbage, mustard trio and Berlin style curry ketchup,
* petite chicken Schnitzel “Wiener Art”-Vienna style served with warm German potato salad,
* “Apfelstrudel mit Vanillesoße”-apple strudel served with vanilla sauce. There will be coffee serviced with the dessert course.

Old Europe is located in Georgetown at 2434 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington DC.

Pictures: The Outstanding German Food of Chef/ Owner Cindy O. Herold

The Wines

Pictures: The Wines

APERITIF WINE

2014 Riesling trocken, Weingut Schauss, Nahe

Pictures: 2014, Riesling trocken, Weingut Schauss, Nahe

RED

30 or 40 years ago, German red wine accounted for only about 15 percent of German wine output. Today, we are well over 35 percent. And not only the vineyard area planted with red grapes has expanded dramatically, but also the quality has improved considerably. Today, German red wine can compete with any red wine in the world, I believe. As a result, German red wines are increasingly appearing in the international wine market. Of course, given its location, they tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse.

2014 Spätburgunder, Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss, Ahr

The Ahr valley north of the 50 °latitude is unquestionable the northernmost region for producing top Pinot-Noirs. The secret lies in an ideal micro-climate found in the narrow canyons along the river with their very special geological conditions, and south-facing slopes. Wine making along the tiny Ahr river goes back to Roman times. There is no other wine region in the world with such a high concentration of Spätburgunder/ Pinot Noir (86%).

Picture: 2014 Spätburgunder, Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss, Ahr

Picture: Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr

See also: Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

2012 Spätburgunder, Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Schloss Proschwitz, Grosse Lage, GG, Sachsen

Annette Schiller: This region tickles all your senses with its unique voluptuous baroque architecture, a rich history, its wealth of art, and love of all the good things in life.

What it is not so well-known for is its wine. Bordering Poland and the Czech Republic, Sachsen is one of Germany’s small wine regions (360 hectares) and disappeared from the wine map during the communist period.

Picture: 2012 Spätburgunder, Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Schloss Proschwitz, Grosse Lage, GG, Sachsen

During the communist times from 1945 until reunification in 1989, wine production was nationalized, and winemaking took place in huge VEB (volkseigener Betrieb / company owned by the people) wineries. The output, the bottle count was imposed on the VEB by the State, and therefore quality could not play a major role. After the iron curtain came down, family wineries were founded, and the winemakers pursued quality with a vengeance.

The three main grape varieties are Müller-Thurgau, Riesling and Weissburgunder but many others are grown in smaller quantities, including Grauer Burgunder, Spätburgunder, Roter Traminer, Kerner, Dornfelder, Goldriesling, Scheurebe and a rarity, Dunkelfelder. The wines are mostly dry (trocken). Most of the wine produced in Sachsen is consumed in the region.

Picture: Wine Pairing Dinner at Lippe'sches Gutshaus, Schloss Proschwitz, with Prinz zur Lippe

See: Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

2012 Lemberger, Weingut Schnaitmann, Gutswein, Württemberg

More wine is consumed in Württemberg (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?” Yet, the wines of Württemberg are very difficult to find outside of Germany. This is changing slowly, as the world is discovering the outstanding German red wines.

Picture: 2012 Lemberger, Weingut Schnaitmann, Gutswein, Württemberg

Picture: Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

SEKT

Not well known, Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One of four bottles of sparkling wine produced in the world is consumed in Germany. Sparkling wine produced in Germany is called Sekt. Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range. In addition to Sekt, Germany produces semi-sparkling wine, which is called Perlwein. But the production of Perlwein is small.

2012 Riesling Sekt, Extra Brut, Sekt- und Weingut F.B.Schönleber, Rheingau

Picture: 2012 Riesling Sekt, Extra Brut, Sekt- und Weingut F.B.Schönleber, Rheingau

Picture: Dinner with Ralf Schönleber, Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau

See: Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralph and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

WHITE and DRY

When you travel outside of Germany and check the wine lists of restaurants and retail stores in terms of German wines, you easily get the impression that Germans are hooked on sweet wine. It is the fruity-sweet Riesling style that is so popular in the world and that many equate with German wine and the German’s preference for wine. But this is faulty. Germany drinks dry. Like the rest of the world.

I estimate that 95% of the wine consumed in Germany is dry and sweet-style wines are niche wines in Germany. This is pretty much in line with the consumption patterns in the rest of the world. But the delicious low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings that German winemakers are able to produce, are unique in the world and popular everywhere.

2014 Riesling, Weingut Robert Schätzle Schloss Neuweier, Gutswein, trocken, Baden

Weingut Schloss Neuweier, although not well known in the US, is a very special, premium wine producer in Baden, with a long history. The export share of Weingut Schloss Neuweier is negligible, which is typical for the Baden region. But this may change for Weingut Schloss Neuweier in the future and was not like this in the past. Its Mauerwein (Wall wine – from a terraced vineyard on the hill behind the castle) was one of Queen Victoria’s favorites. It had won an award at the International Exhibition of Philadelphia in 1876 and was on the airship Graf Zeppelin’s maiden flight.

Picture: 2014 Riesling, Weingut Robert Schätzle Schloss Neuweier, Gutswein, trocken, Baden

Picture: In the Cellar with Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier

See: Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015) 

2013 Riesling, Alte Reben, trocken, Weingut Von Oetinger, Gutswein, trocken, Rheingau

Achim von Oetinger is an old buddy of Annette and me. Based in Erbach in the Rheingau, which is 45 minutes away from Frankfurt by car, we see him regularly at events when we are in Germany. I have asked him several times: When will your wines be available in the USA. His answer was always the same: I am too small. I do not have enough wine for getting involved in exports to the USA. Against this background, I was thrilled when Arrowine, a leading wine store in the Washington DC area, started to bring Achim von Oetinger's wines to the US.

Achim von Oetinger is one of the new stars of the Rheingau. It is not without reason that he was Stuart Pigott’s Discovery of the Year 2015. See: Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2014)

Picture: 2013 Riesling, Alte Reben, trocken, Weingut Von Oetinger, Gutswein, trocken, Rheingau

Picture: Annette Schiller and Achim von Oetinger

See: Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger – Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

2013 Riesling, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Weingut Von Winning, Erste Lage, trocken, Pfalz

Terry Theise: The fact that this estate is crafting some of the very best dry wines in Germany is no fluke, rather a result of nearly obsessive winemaker Stefan Attman’s commitment to both dedicated cultivation of Deidesheim and Forst’s best sites and meticulous work in the cellar. Under the same ownership and winemaking team, the Dr. Deinhard label is designated for fruity styles vinified in stainless steel while the Von Winning label is reserved for the Grosses Gewächs sites vinified dry and in wood.

Picture: 2013 Riesling, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Weingut Von Winning, Erste Lage, trocken, Pfalz

Von Winning maintains some of the oldest parcels in Grosses Gewächs vineyards smattered across Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. Attman’s every decision is informed by great enthusiasm and experiences at estates in the Cote d’Or and abroad. For example, Attman’s newer vines are planted at a very high vine density- 9500 vines per hectare, as opposed to the more typical less than 5000. This creates competition amongst the vines, forcing the roots to grow deep, naturally reducing yields. Attman has adopted the single cane trellising system, prevalent in Burgundy, and Grosses Gewächs wines ferment in 500mL French barrels. Von Winning practices organic and sustainable viticulture.

Picture: At Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim, Pfalz

See: Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

2013 Weissburgunder, Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte, Weingut Lützkendorf, Grosse Lage, GG. Saale-Unstrut

The Saale-Unstrut wine region sits on 51st latitude and is Germany’s northernmost wine region, located in the valleys of the Saale and Unstrut rivers, an area of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). The oldest record of viticulture dates back to the year 998 during the reign of Emperor Otto III.

Picture: 2013 Weissburgunder, Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte, Weingut Lützkendorf, Grosse Lage, GG. Saale-Unstrut

Weingut Lützkendorf was founded at the dawn of the 19th century and existed until 1959 when the GDR authorities nationalized the property and integrated the estate into the government run Agricultural Cooperative. In 1991, after the reunification of the two German States the vineyards were returned to the family. Uwe Lützkendorf reestablished the winery, revamped the vineyards, and built new production facilities in Bad Kösen.

To listen to Uwe Lützkendorf , and also to his fellow winemakers in this former GDR area, recounting their stories of reviving an economic and agriculture waste land after German reunification, is living history and worthy of a spy thriller.

Picture: Tasting with Uwe Lützkendorf

See: Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

2011 Scheurebe, Randersacker Sonnenstuhl, Weingut Schmitt's Kinder, Spätlese trocken, Franken

Franken, located in the northern part of Bavaria, is boasting a long tradition and some fine terroirs (mostly shell limestone and Keuper, a kind of marl). Its two leading grape varieties are Riesling and Silvaner. Typically, Franken wine comes in the distinctive, dumpily-rounded Franken “Bocksbeutel” wine bottle. The bottle’s unusual shape dates back to at least the 16th century. The Bocksbeutel may only be used for Franken wines. In Germany, it is a sign of excellence, while in the US, many consumers link this kind of bottle shape to lower quality wine.

Picture: 2011 Scheurebe, Randersacker Sonnenstuhl, Weingut Schmitt's Kinder, Spätlese trocken, Franken

Picture: In the Vineyard with Martin Johann Schmitt

See: Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

2012 Riesling, Enkircher Steffensberg, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Mosel 

The Big Glue: Immich-Batterieberg is one of the oldest wineries in the Mosel traced back to the year 911. In 1495, the Immich family purchased the property, producing traditional dry and off-dry wines under their name for almost 500 years. After filing for bankruptcy in 2007, the estate was reacquired in 2009 by Gernot Kollmann and two Hamburg based investors. Since taking over, the wines are once again produced in a dry or off-dry style, with sugar levels depending on each site, each vintage. All of the Cru wines are once again being vinified separately in old oak barrels; spontaneous fermentations are the norm and chaptalization, re/de-acidification or any other intervention during vinification is forbidden. Sulfur is added in low doses and only before bottling. 80% of the vines are un-grafted and over 60 years old, and everything is worked organically (though not certified).

Picture: 2012 Riesling, Enkircher Steffensberg, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Mosel

Picture: Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, and Annette Schiller at Rieslingfeier 2016 Gala Dinner in New York

See: Post-Rieslingfeier and Pre-Big Glou Dinner with 3 Top Winemakers from Germany at BToo in Washington DC: Clemens Busch, Immich-Batterieberg and Koehler-Ruprecht, USA

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Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralph and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger – Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Post-Rieslingfeier and Pre-Big Glou Dinner with 3 Top Winemakers from Germany at BToo in Washington DC: Clemens Busch, Immich-Batterieberg and Koehler-Ruprecht, USA



Saturday, October 29, 2016

Announcement: Annette Schiller Leading 2 Tastings of German Premium Wines at the Annual Meetings of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

Picture: The 2016 American Wine Society Annual Meetings

Annette Schiller, President of ombiasy PR and WineTours and member of the American Wine Society, will lead two German wine tastings at the forthcoming Annual Meetings of the American Wine Society. The tastings are sponsored by ombiasy WineTours and the wine producers whose wines are being presented or their US importers.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, in Seattle. We will Taste a Weingut Fritz Haag Wine at the Saturday Session. See: The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

The 2016 American Wine Society Annual Meetings will take place on November 2 - 5, 2016, at the Hilton Orange County in Costa Mesa, South of Los Angeles.

More than 600 members from all over the USA are coming to this 3-day event, filled with tastings, seminars and presentations.

Picture: Vineyard Tour with Rainer Schnaitmann, Weingut Schnaitmann, Württemberg. We will Taste a Weingut Schnaitmann Wine at the Friday Session. See also: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

The American Wine Society

The American Wine Society was founded in 1967 as a non-profit, educational, consumer-oriented organization for those interested in learning more about all aspects of wine. On October 7, 1967, around 200 grape growers, home winemakers, and wine lovers gathered at Dr. Konstantin Frank’s vineyard on Keuka Lake near Hammondsport, NY for the AWS’ initial meeting.

Picture: Christian Schiller Tasting with Kai Schätzel at Weingut Schätzel. We will Taste a Weingut Schätzel Wine at the Friday Session. See: A New Fixture in the Reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein - Visiting Kai Schaetzel and his Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

In December of the same year, the thirteen charter members, led by Founder Dr. Konstantin Frank, met to determine the organization structure of AWS and elect officers. Now in its 49th year, the American Wine Society is the largest consumer based wine education organization in North America. Membership is open to anyone interested in wine and over 21 years of age.

Picture: Annette Schiller, David Schildknecht and Hannsjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz. in New York. We will Taste a Weingut Ökonomierat Rebhalz at the Friday Session. See also: Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

In the early days, AWS members were located primarily in the eastern part of the country. As the society grew , we established chapters throughout the eastern U.S., then into the south and Midwest, and finally into western states. Today, the American Wine Society has over 5,000 members in 45 states and 120 chapters across the U.S.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Winemaker Christian L. Stahl. We will Taste a Weingut Christian Stahl wine at the Friday Session. See also: Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany

Each November the Society hosts hosts a three-day national conference with two full days of educational seminars, nearly 49 to choose from. Winery owners, wine educators, and renowned wine makers are selected to present sessions during this national event. In addition, a program educating members to become AWS certified wine judges is conducted on the day preceding the seminars.

Picture: Dinner with Ralf Schönleber, Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau. We will Taste a Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber Sekt at the Friday Session. See also: Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralph and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Los Angeles: The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society (Annual Meetings in Los Angeles)

Friday, November 4, 2:30 pm
American Wine Society Annual Meetings 2016
Los Angeles
AWS members only

Germany is increasingly becoming known as a serious red wine producer; Germany is the #3 producer world-wide of Pinot-Noir (= Spätburguder).

Germans have always been obsessed with sparkling wines: 1 out of 4 sparklers produced in the world is consumed in Germany; and Germany is home to the second largest sparkling wine producer world-wide.

Germany is known for its Rieslings. Yes, it is the #1 Riesling producer world-wide, but also the #1 Pinot-Blanc (Weissburgunder) and #2 Pinot-Gris (Grauburgunder) producer. And, today, most of the white wines produced in Germany are dry.

More than 70 people have signed up for this event, where Annette will present: The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry.

Picture: Visit, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe. We will Taste a Weingut Schloss Proschwitz Wine at the Friday Session. See also: Visit, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Annette will pour 6 wines. The wines are sponsored by the winemakers and by the US importer of German wines, Rudi Wiest.

Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann, Württemberg (Rudi Wiest)
Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz (Rudi Wiest)
Weingut Christian L. Stahl, Franken
Sekt- und Weingut F.B. Schönleber, Rheingau
Weingut Schloss Proschwitz - Prinz zur Lippe, Sachsen
Weingut Schätzel, Rheinhessen

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Rudi Wiest, Rudi Wiest Selections, in Mainz. Rudi Wiest Selections sponsored the Rainer Schnaitmann and the Ökonomierat Rebholz wines. See: 2016 VDP Trade Fair Weinbörse - Vintage 2015 - in Mainz: Schiller’s Report

Los Angeles: The New Classification of German Wines – the VDP Classification

Saturday, November 5, 9 am
American Wine Society Annual Meetings 2016
Los Angeles
AWS members only

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 is the standard classification system in Germany and many winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the VDP producers and more generally, the producers of premium wines in Germany.

Picture: Christian Schiller, Martina Weil, Annette Schiller Wilhelm Weil at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala. We will Taste 2 Weingut Robert Weil Wines at the Saturday Session. See also:
Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

In a nutshell, the VDP is moving to a classification system that resembles very much the classification system in the Bourgogne. The classification of the VDP puts the terroir principle at the center of its classification approach. With the latest modifications of 2012, the absolutely finest vineyards are called Grosse Lage (for the 2011 vintage still called Erste Lage) and dry wines from these super top vineyards are called Grosses Gewächs. Grosses Gewächs wines are the finest dry wines from Germany’s finest vineyards.

Pictures: At Weingut Wittmann with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserat-Wittmann. We will Taste 2 Weingut Wittmann Wines in the Saturday Session. See also: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

We will taste wines from each category of the new classification. The wines are sponsored by Dr. Loosen Bros., the US importer for: Dr. Loosen (Mosel), Villa Wolf (Pfalz), Robert Weil (Rheingau), Wittmann (Rheinhessen), Maximin Grünhaus (Mosel) and Fritz Haag (Mosel).

We will have 6 wines: 3 wines from the highest quality level (Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru) and 1 wine from each of the other 3 quality levels:

Gutswein/ Estate Wine: Weingut Fritz Haag
Ortswein/ Village Wine: Weingut Robert Weil
Erste Lage/ Premier Cru: Weingut Robert Weil
Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru: GG Weingut Wittmann
Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru: GG Weingut Dr. Loosen
Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru: Spätlese Dr. Loosen

See also:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Picture: The German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2013 at Weingut Dr. Loosen. We will taste 2 Weingut Dr. Loosen Wines at the Saturday Session. See also: Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

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2016 VDP Trade Fair Weinbörse - Vintage 2015 - in Mainz: Schiller’s Report

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Friday, October 28, 2016

A Bordeaux Feast in Washington DC: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2016) USA

Picture:  Bordeaux Festival in Washington DC: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2016)

Calvert and Woodley: Our annual Fête du Bordeaux dinner is here! This year's Fête du Bordeaux introduces the soon-to-be-released 2014 vintage, but also features wines from 2009, 1996 and others. The 2014 vintage is a good, if not very good, vintage with many excellent wines. We were quite happy when we tasted them in 2015 and again earlier this year. They're still quite young, obviously, but they show plenty of promise. The dinner will be Wednesday, October 26th at the Park Hyatt in Washington, DC.

Pictures: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2016)

US Wine Retailer of the Year 2012, Ed Sands and his son Michael Sands put on again a fantastic evening with an amazing selection of ultra-premium Bordeaux wines and the food of Blue Duck Tavern Chef Franck Loquet at the Fête du Bordeaux Dinner 2016.


Pictures: Ed and Michael Sands of Calvert and Woodley with Annette Schiller

This year‘s special guests were:

Picture: Cécile Loqmane, Marketing and Communication Manager, representing Château Figeac

Picture: Technical Director Marielle Cazaux, representing Château La Conseillante

Picture: Owner Lilian Barton-Sartorius, representing Châteaux Léoville Barton and Langoa Barton

Picture: Owner Jean-Charles Cazes, representing Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez

Ombiasy WineTours

Annette Schiller visits Bordeaux once a year with a group of not more than 12 people on her ombiasy tour of Bordeaux. For 2017, she has added a second tour, an ultra-premium high-end tour with a smaller group. During the past 3 ombiasy tours to Bordeaux, we always visited Château Figeac, the last time just a few months ago. See here: Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

We visited Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez and met owner Jean-Charles Cazes on the ombiasy WineTours to Bordeaux in 2013. See here: Tour and Tasting at Château Lynch-Bages in Bages, Bordeaux, France

We have not yet visited Châteaux Léoville Barton and Langoa Barton as we always visited one of the two other Léoville châteaux, Château Leoville Poyferre.

Annette already agreed with Technical Director Marielle Cazaux that in 2017, the ombiasy WineTour to Bordeaux will include a visit of and tasting at Château La Conseillante.

For more details, see:  Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: Tasting at the Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2016)

Château Léoville-Barton and Château Langoa Barton

The Barton family, the current owners of Château Léoville-Barton and Château Langoa Barton, are able to trace their Bordeaux roots all the way back to 1722. That was the year that Thomas Barton left Ireland for Bordeaux. Like many successful owners, Barton started out as a Bordeaux negociant.

The first foray into ownership for the Barton family was in St. Estephe, with Chateau Le Boscq in 1745, which was awarded Cru Bourgeois status in 1932. In 1995, the Barton family sold it to Dourthe.

Also in 1745, the Barton family partnered with another powerful Bordeaux family to form a Bordeaux wine negociant company, Barton and Guestier. It was controlled by the Barton family until the Seagram Group got control in 1986. Today, Barton and Guestier is part of the international wine and spirit company Diageo.

The next major purchase for the Barton family took place in 1821. That was the year they bought Chateau Langoa Barton. Following the purchase of Langoa Barton, they bought a second St. Julien estate: Culled from the vineyards of Château Leoville Las Cases, that estate became Chateau Leoville Barton, a deuxième cru en 1855. Interestingly, because no wine making facilities came with the purchase, they were forced to make the wines at Château Langoa Barton. Until today, production of both wines takes place at Langoa Barton.

When Ronald Barton, who had inherited the family’s property from his father, who was tragically killed in a hunting accident in the 1920's, died without an heir in 1986, his nephew Anthony took control of the family properties. Anthony had already moved from Ireland - where the family maintains a home - to Bordeaux in 1951.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Lilian Barton-Sartorius at Ruth Chris Steakhouse in Washington DC. See: A Vertical Blind Tasting of Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton plus the 2011 Chateau Mauvesin-Barton with Lilian Barton-Sartorius in Washington DC, USA

Château Léoville-Barton

Château Léoville-Barton is a Deuxième Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Julien appellation.

There are now 47 hectares of vineyards at Château Léoville-Barton, planted with 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Vinification is performed in the cellar at Langoa-Barton, as there is in fact no château at Léoville-Barton.

The grand vin is Château Léoville-Barton, the second wine is La Reserve de Léoville-Barton. Total production is 20.000 cases.

Château Langoa-Barton

Château Langoa-Barton is a Troisième Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Julien appellation.

Located along the banks of the Gironde river, Langoa-Barton has 15 hectares under vine: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot.

About 7,000 cases of Château Langoa-Barton are produced.

In September, 2011, the Barton family purchased an additional Bordeaux estate, Château Mauvesin in Moulis.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Lilian Barton Sartorius and Mélanie Barton Sartorius in Washington DC at the UGCB Tasting in 2014

Château Lynch Bages and Château Ormes de Pez

Jean-Charles Cazes, the grandfather of the Jean-Charles we met, purchased Château Lynch Bages and Château Ormes de Pez in St. Estèphe on the eve of the Second World War. Lynch Bages and Ormes de Pez have been run by the Cazes family ever since.

Until Jean-Charles Cazes took over in 2006, his father, Jean Michel Cazes, was at the helm of the family empire. He was a very influential personality in Bordeaux. Before returning to Pauillac in 1973 to take over the family's insurance and wine interests, Jean-Charles was for 10 years a manager, based in Paris.

In addition to the Cazes family wine interests, from 1987 to 2000, Jean-Michel Cazes developed AXA Millésimes, the wine properties department of the insurance company AXA. French insurance companies are required to invest in French property. Their assets in Bordeaux include Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Château Suduiraut, Cantenac Brown (recently sold) and Chateau Petit Village Abroad they own Quinta do Noval, a Port producer in the Douro Valley in Portugal, and the Tokay producing Disznókő estate in Hungary.

In 2006, after 33 years in charge of the Cazes family interests, Jean-Michel Cazes stepped down, handing over management of the family interests to his son Jean-Charles Cazes. Born in 1974, Jean Charles grew up at Lynch Bages, the last of four children, and the only son.

Jean-Charles Cazes assumed overall responsibility for management of the renowned Cazes family estates and winemaking operations, extending from Bordeaux to southern France and including joint ventures in Portugal and Australia, including the Bordeaux chateaux of Lynch-Bages, Ormes de Pez and Villa Bel-Air; the Michel Lynch brand of Bordeaux varietals; L'Ostal Cazes and the Circus line of wines from the Languedoc; a distribution company, JM Cazes-Selection; Xisto, a joint venture with the Roquette family in Portugal's Douro Valley; and Tapanappa, a joint venture in South Australia undertaken with the Bollinger family of Champagne fame and pioneering Australian winemaker, Brian Croser.

Jean-Michel Cazes continues to lead the wine and tourism division of the family’s activities, notably Château Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac converted into a hotel and a restaurant of two Michelin stars.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Château Lynch-Bages with Jean-Charles Cazes. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Lynch-Bages in Bages, Bordeaux, France

Chateau Lynch Bages

Chateau Lynch Bages is a Fifth Growth in the village of Bages, just southwest of Pauillac. Jean-Charles Cazes was able to purchase Lynch Bages in 1939.

The vineyards total 90 hectares, with 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The white wine vineyard, planted on 6 hectares, is located to the west, with vines 20 years old on average, it’s composed of 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 32% Semillon and 15% Muscadelle.

Lynch Bages produces 3 wines:

Chateau Lynch Bages, AOC Pauillac, 5th Grand Cru Classe, 25,000 cases.

Echo de Lynch Bages, AOC Pauillac, 10,000 cases, often a blend of 50 to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 to 30% Merlot and 15 to 20% Cabernet Franc.

Blanc de Lynch Bages, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 4,000 cases. They begun making white wine in 1990.

Chateau Ormes-de-Pez

Château Les Ormes-de-Pez is in the Saint-Estèphe appellation. In the 2003 listing that was later annulled, Château Les Ormes-de-Pez was classified as one of 9 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels. It belongs to the group of six former Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel (Château Chasse Spleen, Château Les Ormes de Pez, Château de Pez, Château Potensac, Château Poujeaux and Château Siran) that have decided to remain outside the Cru Bourgeois Classification.

The vineyard area, divided into two blocks north and south of the village of Saint-Estèphe, extends over 33 hectares, with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. The annual production is 15,000 cases.

Ormes de Pez was purchased by Jean Charles Cazes in 1927.

Château Figeac

Château de Figeac is one of the 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B Châteaux in Saint-Emilion. Its prominent neighbor is Château Cheval Blanc. The vineyards of Château de Figeac border the Pomerol appellation vineyards and thus the vines grow on a very different terroir than the rest of the Saint-Emilion vines. The Figeac wines show a more “Left Bank” character than the rest of the Saint-Emilion wines.

Because of its fine gravel based soil (which is uncommon in the Right Bank), Merlot accounts only for 30 % of the plantings (which is very low by Saint Emilion standards). The Château Figeac Grand Vin is dominated (70%) by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in equal parts. Château Figeac is known as the most Médoc of the Saint Emilion chateaux.

Château Figeac is an old estate. It takes its name from a Roman called Figeacus who built a villa here. Today, one can still see a water-supply system dating from the Gallo-Roman period, foundations of buildings from the Middle Ages and defensive walls along with the remains of a Renaissance chateau incorporated into its structure.

Pictures: At Château Figeac with General Manger/ Technical Director Frédéric Faye. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Until the late 18th century, Château Figeac had been in the hands of one family for almost 500 years. With almost 200 hectares, Château Figeac was one of the largest wine estates at the time, but parts were sold and the estate was subdivided several times until 1892, when the Manoncourt family purchased Château Figeac. (A sizable chunk which was purchased by the Ducasse family in 1832 formed the nucleus of what would eventually become Cheval Blanc.)

For most of the past 70 years, Château Figeac was been associated with Thierry Manoncourt, who took over the management of the property in 1946, and his wife Marie-France; Thierry Manacourt passed away in 2010. It was under his leadership that Château Figeac rose to the front ranks of Saint-Émilion estates. In 1992, Thierry Manacourt divided the business between his 4 daughters, bestowing the larger share on his eldest daughter, Laure.

Château Figeac tends to harvest early with a view of retaining freshness. After Haut Brion and Latour, Château Figeac was the third estate in Bordeaux to introduce stainless steel tanks; there are now 20 temperature controlled vats, 10 in oak and 10 stainless steel. Since the mid-1970s, Figeac has been aged in 100% new oak. The time spent in new oak varies according to the vintage character. The 1997 vintage was aged 12 months, while the 2009 vintage saw new oak for 18 months.

The following wines are produced: Château Figeac (Saint-Emilion - Premier Grand Cru Classé B), La Grange-Neuve de Figeac (second wine) and Chateau Petit-Figeac (bought in 2002 as most of the vineyard was in the middle of their Château Figeac vineyard. The wine is now made at Château Figeac). In total, the Figeac estate amounts to 54 hectares of which 40 are planted with vines. Annual production is 10 000 cases.

The family also owns two other wineries: the nearby Château La Fleur-Pourret (4, 5 hectares, Château La Fleur Pourret was part of Château Figeac many years ago, also bought in 2002), and Château de Millery (just over 1 hectare), in the southern sector of St.-Emilion known as St.-Christophe des Bardes.

Pictures: At Château Figeac with Technical Director Frédéric Faye. See also: Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

For many years, Madame Manancourt's son-in-law, Comte Eric d'Aramon, was the DG of Château Figeac, but he was removed in 2013, when the Manoncourt family appointed Jean-Valmy Nicolas as Joint Managing Director and Frédéric Faye as Manager of Château Figeac.

Jean-Valmy Nicolas (a graduate of France’s HEC business school) is a co-owner of Chateau La Conseillante in Pomerol and a professional at an investment company in Paris.

Frédéric Faye (an engineering graduate of Bordeaux’s ENITA), has been at Château Figeac since 2002, when he began as Vineyard Manager before being promoted to the post of Technical Manager. He now has overall management of the vineyard and the wine-making, as well as the sales of the wines.

As part of these changes, in March 2013, Michel Rolland signed a consulting contract with Château Figeac, with the aim of bringing it up to Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Château La Conseillante

Berry Bros. And Rudd: Château La Conseillante is amongst the crème de la crème of Pomerol producers. It can trace its history back to 1735 and has been in the hands of the Nicolas family since 1874.

La Conseillante's 13 hectares of vineyards are located on a plateau in eastern Pomerol on the boundary with the St-Emilion appellation. Its vineyards border those of L`Evangile, Petit-Village, Vieux Château-Certan and Cheval Blanc.

La Conseillante is a blend of 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. The grapes are harvested by hand and are then fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. The wine is then aged in small oak casks (90% new) for 18-20 months. It is bottled unfiltered.

Executive Chef Franck Loquet

Franck Loquet joined Park Hyatt Washington in November 2015 as the new executive chef. Prior to joining Park Hyatt Washington Chef Loquet served as the executive chef for the Hotel Sofitel Lafayette Square since July 2011. He relocated to the United States from Paris, France where he worked for world-renowned chef Alain Ducasse from 2008 to 2011.  His culinary experience includes working at multiple one and two-star Michelin restaurants throughout Europe including Ze Kitchen Galerie in Paris, cooking with William Ledeuil, winner of the "Chef of the Year 2010" by the Gault Millau guide; Midsummer House Restaurant in Cambridge, England under Chef Daniel Clifford; and at Inverlochy Castle in Fort William, Scotland.

Named one of the finest restaurants in Washington, DC by Zagat, The Washington Post, and Washingtonian, Blue Duck Tavern features creative American cuisine crafted from the region’s seasonal ingredients. The centerpiece of the open restaurant is a wood-burning. Touches of dark oak, blue burlap, handcrafted furnishings and rustic wood tables create a warm atmosphere. The restaurant also features a private Chef’s Ttable seating up to 18 guests. Blue Duck Tavern has 1 star in the Michelin Guide.

Picture: Chef Franck Loquet

Champagne Reception

Chef's Selection of Passed Hors d'oeuvres
Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne ($169)

Pictures: Champagne Reception

Picture: Rudger de Vink of RdV with his Wife and Annette Schiller

Picture: Marlene RedDoor, Lilian Barton-Sartorius, Lilian Barton-Sartorius, Châteaux Léoville Barton and Langoa Barton, and Michael Sands

Picture: Marielle Cazaux, Château La Conseillante, and Annette Schiller

Picture: Marielle Cazaux,  Château La Conseillante, and Annette Schiller with Bob and Lynette

Picture: Marlene RedDoor, Mark Dryfoos and Cécile Loqmane, Château Figeac

 Picture: Christian Schiller and Cécile Loqmane, Château Figeac

The Dinner

You could order all the wines at the event at a special price. The regular Calvert and Woodlye are given in brackets.

Pictures: Michael Sands Opening the Dinner and Introducing the Specail Guests

First Course

Pan-Seared Scallops with Orange Purée, Smoked Potato, Apricot and Fennel


Blanc de Lynch-Bages 2015 ($47)


Second Course

Porcini Tortellini with Chestnut Purée, Fontina Cheese, Sage, Chicken Jus


Petit-Figeac 2014 ($40)
Château Ormes de Pez 2014 ($35)
Château Figeac 2014 ($119)
Château La Conseillante 2014 ($139)
Château Langoa-Barton 2014 ($59)
Château Lynch-Bages 2014 ($119)
Château Léoville-Barton 2014 ($90)


Third Course

Seared Duck Breast with Black Truffle Jus, Plumped Currants, Black Berries and Pickled Plums


Château Figeac 2009 ($299)
Château La Conseillante 2006 ($169)
Château Langoa-Barton 2006 ($70)
Château Lynch-Bages 2006 ($159)


Fourth Course

Short Rib with Carrot Purée, Duck Fat Carrots, Coriander Crumble, Pearl Onions


Château Figeac 2004 ($159)
Château La Conseillante 1996 ($179)
Château Lynch-Bages 1996 ($269)
Château Léoville-Barton 1999 ($139)


Dessert

Canelé with Chestnut Mousse, Candied Chestnuts, and Wine Gelée


Château Suduiraut 2005 ($99)


Coffee

schiller-wine - Related Postings

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Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

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Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France  

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Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

A Vertical Blind Tasting of Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton plus the 2011 Chateau Mauvesin-Barton with Lilian Barton-Sartorius in Washington DC, USA

Tour and Tasting at Château Lynch-Bages in Bages, Bordeaux, France