#DWCC : Comunicatore Digitale della settimana – Wine Blogger of the Week: Christian Schiller

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Cantina Sociale de Soave Winemaker Giancarlo Piubelli at the BYOB Night at 2013 Digitale Wine Commncations Conference in Spain

Last week, I was Cantina Sociale de Soave’s Wine Blogger of the Week. Cantina Sociale de Soave released the following posting on its blog, including my video assessment of a vertical of Rocca Sveva Soave Classico Superiore, which had been taped during the Digitale Wine Communications Conference in Logroño, Rioja.

Here is the video.

And here is the text: "Christian Schiller è un wine writer, ha un blog che si chiama schiller-wine.blogspot.it e fa parte della FIJEV (International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers)... Prima di diventare un #winelover era un economista al Fondo Monetario Internazionale.

Christian G.E. Schiller and Cantina Sociale de Soave Winemaker Giancarlo Piubelli  at 2013 Digitale Wine Commncations Conference in Spain

Giancarlo Piubelli at Cantina Sociale de Soave

Giancarlo Piubelli is one of the winemakers of Cantina Sociale di Soave. In particular, he is in charge of the Rocca Sveva Soave Classico Superiore, one of Cantina Sociale di Soave’s premium wines. I was happy to meet Giancarlo again in Logroño, after our first encounter in 2011 during a visit of Cantina Sociale di Soave, following the EWBC 2011 in Brescia.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Winemaker Giancarlo Piubelli at Cantina Sociale de Soave
For the 2013 Digitale Wine Communications Conference, see:
The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja, Spain

For the 2011 European Wine Bloggers Conference, see:
A Visit of Cantina di Soave, Soave, Italy
Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont
Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Meeting Winemaker and Owner Massimo “Max” di Lenardo from Friuli, Italy and Tasting His di Lenardo Vineyards Wines

In the Glass: 3 Easy Drinking Wines from the Soave Region in Italy

Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA

The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Meeting the Winemakers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, Soave, Italy

The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja, Spain 

EWBC 2011 in Italy: Tour d'Horizont Postings on schiller-wine and Videos by Other Participants

Picture: Dinner with Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti at Badia a Coltibuono - for more see: Wining and Dining at Badia a Coltibuono in Tuscany with Wine Makers and Owners Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, Italy

Held in beautiful Brescia, in the northern part of Italy, about an hour east of Milan by car or train, and sponsored by the Franciacorta Producers’ Consortium, the 2011 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) took place on October 14 and 15, with optional pre-conference events on October 13 and wine region excursions from October 17 to 19. Wine bloggers and wine industry professionals joined together to discuss the convergence between the culture of wine and the internet and to taste and enjoy Italian wine and food during 5 days full of lectures, seminars, wine tastings, and vineyard visits. 34 different countries were represented by the 216 participants.

You find here the links to 3 overview postings on schiller-wine and to a number of video postings uploaded by other EWBC participants.

Overview Postings on Schiller-Wine

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy

EWBC 2011: Videos by Other Participants

EWBC 2011 Wrap Up - uploaded by Vrazon

"Faces & Places" EWBC 2011- uploaded by The WineHub

Kit & Audrey EWBC 2011 video.mov - uploaded by WineMarcom  

EWBC 2011 BYOB - uploaded by billbrettboy 

Dario The Butcher of Chianti Classico - uploaded by Joe Becerra 

Visit to Il Mosnel Winery - uploaded by igsegovia 

Onne Wan delivering the Christmas spirit at EWBC - uploaded by ViiniTV  

Wine Blogger Dance Off - Spain vs Finland at #ewbc - uploaded by thirstforwine 

Chianti Classico Explained by Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti of Badia a Coltibuono - uploaded by BeemanTV 

EWBC 2011 - Christian Schiller wine blogger for Soave - uploaded by ilSoave

How Recioto di Soave - a Dessert Wine - is Made: In Le Sponde Room of the Coffele Winery in Soave, Italy

Pictures: Le Sponde Room of the Coffele Winery in Soave

I recently had the opportunity to see first-hand how Recioto di Soave is made – in “Le Sponde” room of the Coffele Winery in Soave.

Following the EWBC 2011 in Brescia, I went with a number of fellow-bloggers on a day trip to Soave, guided by Elisabetta Tosi . We visited 3 wineries – Balestri Valda, Coffele and Cantina Sociale di Soave and met a group of winemaker – Soavecru - in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, where we had lunch with them and tasted their wines.

This is the sixth and last posting in a series of postings on Soave:

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Meeting the Winemakers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, Soave, Italy

A Visit of Cantina di Soave, Soave, Italy

Recioto di Soave is a Raisin Wine

Normally, wine is dry: the sugar, naturally present in grape juice, is transformed into alcohol and carbon dioxide by the action of yeasts during fermentation - the sugar content of the must declines, while the alcohol content increases and the carbon dioxide disappears. Fermentation, however, stops naturally, when the alcohol has reached a certain level – around 15%. Thus, any sugar that is still in the must at that point of fermentation remains in the finished wine and makes the wine sweet. But this happens only under very special circumstances. Even in hot climate countries, the sugar that is in the grapes at harvest disappears completely as a result of fermentation. Thus, normally, wine is dry. But …. there are many wines that are not dry. How do wine producers do this?

Picture: Coffele Winery

There are a number of different approaches that wine producers use around the world: One is to remove water by air drying the grapes (raisin wine). Northern Italy is home to a number of raisin wines, where the grapes are dried on straw, on racks, or hung from the rafters.

For more see: Normally, Wine is Dry. But there are Many Sweet Wines in the World. How is Sweet Wine Made?

Pictures: Le Sponde Room and View of Vineyards

Recioto di Soave falls into the group of raisin wines. It is the raisin white wine from around Verona, made from the Garganega grape used in Soave. It is the first wine from Veneto to have obtained the D.O.C.G. appellation. Recioto di Soave can come as Bianco (normale), Classico (from the classical zone) and Spumante.

Dry and Sweet Raisin Wines

In Italy, the generic name for these wines is passito. The method of production is called rasinate (to dry and shrivel). Vin Santo is the raisin wine made in Tuscany.

Raisin wines are typically sweet wines, but do not have to be sweet. For example, the raisin wines from the blend of red wine grapes typical of Valpolicella can come as dry or sweet: If fermentation is complete, the result is a (dry) Amarone della Valpolicella; if fermentation is incomplete, the result is a (sweet) Recioto della Valpolicella.

Recioto di Soave at Coffele Winery

Coffele’s vineyards in Soave are located in Castelcerino, in the hills north of Soave in the traditional Classico region. In this 25 hectare vineyard, they cultivate Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave, as well as Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The house in Castelcerino has been restored, and a large grape-drying room added, which we had a chance to visit and where we could observe first-hand how Recioto di Soave is produced

The Coffeles were  not there when we visited the room, but a representative explained to us: “After many years of experimentation, we have chosen to return to the traditional Veronese system of drying where the grapes are attached to a vertical framework and left to dry for many months, from September sometimes even until April. We are the first in our area to do this.

This system is much more expensive and requires a lot more space, but the results are far better as the grapes are dried to a higher quality when compared to other drying systems. As a result of this, in 2003 we built a fruit loft or ‘fruttaio’ so as to be able to study this process in more detail. The location is a result of a deliberate choice.

Picture: George M. Taber being interviewed in Le Sponde Room

See more: Meeting American Wine Journalist/Writer George M. Taber (who was Present at the 1976 Judgment of Paris Tasting), USA

The room was built on a ridge (Sponde) of a hill where there is never any fog and, where we have noticed over the years, has good air circulation. Taking advantage of these optimal conditions, we then looked into a software system that would automatically regulate the opening and closing of the large windows, so that only through the movement of air, we obtain the best level of humidity and temperature within the fruit loft (fruttaio).

This allows an ‘appassimento’, which is more natural (also the characteristics of the winter will pass to the wine) and allows a considerable saving in energy as we are able to do without humidifiers and air conditioners.”

schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Italy's Top Wines - 2011 Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia Wine Guide

Meeting Winemaker and Owner Massimo “Max” di Lenardo from Friuli, Italy and Tasting His di Lenardo Vineyards Wines

In the Glass: 3 Easy Drinking Wines from the Soave Region in Italy

The Wines of casa 236 in Italy – Peter Schiller

In the Glass: 2010 Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia IGT, Attems, Italy

Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA

The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Meeting the Winemakers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, Soave, Italy 

A Visit of Cantina di Soave, Soave, Italy

Meeting American Wine Journalist/Writer George M. Taber (who was Present at the 1976 Judgment of Paris Tasting), USA

Normally, Wine is Dry. But there are Many Sweet Wines in the World. How is Sweet Wine Made?

A Visit of Cantina di Soave, Soave, Italy

Pictures:  Christian G.E. Schiller with Winemakers Luigino Bertolazzi (above) and Giancarlo Piubelli (below)

Following the EWBC 2011 in Brescia, I went with a number of fellow-bloggers on a day trip to Soave, guided by Elisabetta Tosi . We visited 3 wineries – Balestri Valda, Coffele and Cantina Sociale di Soave and met a group of winemaker – Soavecru - in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, where we had lunch with them and tasted their wines.

This is the fifth in a series of postings on Soave:

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Meeting the Winemakers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, Soave, Italy  

The final posting will be:

How Ricioto di Soave is Made

The Soave Zone

Soave is a white wine produced in the surrounding area of the fascinating middle age villages of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone, between the picturesque cities of Venice and Verona in the eastern part of the province of Verona in Italy’s Veneto region.

The majority of the vineyards are in the hills. Beautiful centuries-old castles, churches, bell towers, and aristocratic villas are all part of the rich history and traditions of this area, and indicative of the region’s principal product, Soave wines. There are about 3000 growers and 120 wineries, ranging from boutique producers making wine from tiny plots to a few large cooperatives, which make credible wine at attractive prices.

Many of the vineyards are comprised of basalt rock or volcanic stone, which explains the minerality in the wines, while other sites are more dominated by calcaire (limestone). Given the excellent drainage of hillside vineyards, yields are naturally low, which provides more deeply concentrated wines which can age for many years.

Christian G.E. Schiller with Winemaker Luigino Bertolazzi

Soave has developed a reputation of producing simple, crisp wines which pair very well with Italian but also other food. Soave wines tend to have low acid. It is one of the top selling wines in Italy, exported all over the world.

The prevailing grape is the Garganega, the fifth most planted white grape in Italy. Soave must contain at least 70 percent of Garganega, and the rest can be Trebbiano, but Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco are also allowed.

Classification of Soave Wines

All Soave wines – as all Italian wines – belong to one of the following 4 quality levels.

(1) Vino da Tavola (VDT): A very basic wine, made for local consumption; the bottle label does not indicate the region or grape variety. This is the wine you typically get served in a Pizzeria or Trattoria in Italy, when you ask for the “house wine”. Simple, cheap and decent. I can tell, sitting late in the evening at a Piazza in Soave and eating Pizza with a Vino da Tavola, served in a 1 liter jug, is just great.

(2) Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): Wines that are considered to be of higher quality than simple table wines, but which do not conform to DOC and DOCG regulations. In the case of Soave, the label would only indicate the region, Veneto. So, you would not recognize it as a Soave. Sometimes, these are premium wines of winemakers who dropped the DOC/DOCG designation and instead carry the broader Veneto IGT designation, allowing them to try to improve quality by using nontraditional grapes, blends, viticultural practices or vinification techniques that are not allowed under the DOC and DOCG standards.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Fellow Blogger and Tour Organizer/Guide Elisabetta Tosi in Soave

(3) Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC). Soave is currently the largest DOC appellation in Italy, with 15,500 acres of vines. There is Soave DOC and Soave Classico DOC. Soave Classico DOC can only come from the Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone communes. The Soave zone produces approximately 40 million bottles of Soave DOC wine every year and 15 million Soave Classico DOC wine.

(4) Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). DOCG wines are a tick higher in terms of quality requirements than DOC wines (maximum yield for example), which is the highest category in Italy's wine-classification system. About 13,000 acres of vine of the 15,500 acres of the DOC appellation also qualify for DOCG.

There are 2 Soave DOCG appellations: The Soave Superiore DOCG and the Recioto di Soave DOCG.

The Soave Superiore DOCG production zone is in the hillside sites, outside of the communes of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. If aged for a minimum of 2 years, the wine can be labeled as Riserva.

Second, there is Recioto di Soave DOCG, which can come as Bianco (normale), Classico (from the classical zone) and Spumante. These are sweet-style straw wines, where the grapes are dried indoors in open plastic containers for from four to six months, during which they lose over 50% of their moisture, followed by a long, slow fermentation, often in small barrels.

Straw wines are typically sweet wines, capable of long life, but do not have to be sweet. For example, the straw wines from the blend of red wine grapes typical of Valpolicella can come as dry or sweet: If fermentation is complete, the result is a (dry) Amarone della Valpolicella; if fermentation is incomplete, the result is a (sweet) Recioto della Valpolicella. Fermentation may stop for several reasons including high alcohol.

An Anchor for Winemaking in Soave: Cantina di Soave

Pictures: Cantina Borgo Rocca Sveva in Soave

The Cantina di Soave was founded in 1898 and is today one of Italy’s most prestigious wine producers. With 6,000 hectares of vineyards, the winery not only boasts an impressive past, but exhibits today a dynamism that is expressed in a wealth of initiatives and novel challenges. Piece by piece, Cantina di Soave has succeeded in assembling over time an illustrious mosaic of winemaking facilities and vineyards that now extends far beyond its territory of Soave, home of the celebrated Soave wine, to include the Garda area and the hills of Valpolicella, the domain of Amarone.

Faithful to its tradition of constant growth and to careful attention to the distinctive characteristics of each single growing area, Cantina di Soave has created over the years a rich portfolio of vineyards dedicated for the most part to growing the area’s native grape varieties, in particular the Garganega grape, which produces Soave, and Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella, which yield Valpolicella, Ripasso, and Amarone. The winery’s goals are to further develop the varieties’ quality potential and to contribute to their long tradition, to which Cantina di Soave feels itself strongly bound. As the latest pearl in its already-precious strand, the winery has acquired the Montecchia di Crosara cellar, whose standard-bearer, Durello, is produced from the indigenous Durella grape.

The 6 Sites of Cantina di Soave

HISTORICAL HEADQUARTERS IN VIA ROMA, SOAVE - Operating since 1898, this is Cantina di Soave’s historic original headquarters, located within the circuit of the city walls.

ADMINISTRATIVE OFFICES, VIALE VITTORIA, SOAVE - Cantina di Soave’s administrative offices and winemaking facility, opened in 1962, occupies 40,000 sq.mt; most of Cantina di Soave’s wines are made and packaged here.

CANTINA DI CAZZANO DI TRAMIGNA - Located in Valpolicella, the Cazzano di Tramigna winery produces exclusively red wines, and in accord with a policy of specialisation, carries out the appassimento (natural semi-drying of the grapes) process for red wines, including Ripasso and Amarone.

CANTINA DI BORGO ROCCA SVEVA - The winery in Borgo Rocca Sveva, the historically-important hamlet restored to pristine magnificence in 2003, produces, matures, and packages the ROCCA SVEVA wines, Cantina di Soave’s ultra-premium wine line. In its caves too matures EQUIPE 5, the vintage-dated classic-method spumante. One of Borgo Rocca Sveva’s most striking features is its underground ageing cellars, a fascinating, 2,000 sq.mt.-system of caves that honeycombs the rock formations beneath the Castello di Soave. These unique passageways naturally maintain a constant temperature and humidity year-round, perfect conditions for the storage and ageing of the most valuable wines.

Pictures: The Cellar of  Cantina Borgo Rocca Sveva

CANTINA DI ILLASI - Joining forces with the historic Cantina di Illasi was in accord with a policy of improving and rationalising wine production in the hill areas of Valpolicella. The 2005 union made it possible to establish a large production facility to the east of Verona, which can handle 47% of the Valpolicella DOC, with economies of scale that lead to obvious benefits for costs.

CANTINA DI MONTECCHIA DI CROSARA - The acquisition of this cellar in Montecchia di Crosara satisfied the need for large-scale production capability, which is indispensible today if one is to remain competitive and to exercise influence in markets around the globe. This union enabled Cantina di Soave, already one of Italy’s foremost vertically-integrated winery cooperatives, to strengthen its position within the Italian and European wine markets, and to become the main producer of Lessini Durello (with 70% of Lessini Durello DOC).

CANTINA DI SOAVE, USA BRANCH - In 2009, Cantina di Soave USA opened in Boston, Massachusetts, thus ensuring the Verona-based producer an important, front-line presence in the American market; its goal is the re-launching of the wine denominations traditional to Verona, including Soave, Valpolicella, and Amarone, where Cantina di Soave occupies a leading role.

The Cantina di Soave Wine Portfolio

Soave Superiore Classico DOCG
Castelcerino

Grapes: Garganega 80%, Trebbiano di Soave 20%.
Origin: Castelcerino vineyard.
Fining: in stainless steel tanks for 9 months followed by 3 months in the bottle.

Soave Classico DOC

Grapes: 100% Garganega.
Origin: from the historic Classico zone, which lies between the quaint medieval town of Soave itself and the Monteforte d’Alpone.
Fining: in stainless steel tanks.

Bardolino Classico DOC

Grapes: Corvina and Molinara 70%, Rondinella 30%.
Fining: in stainless steel tanks for 6 months.

Valpolicella superiore DOC

Grapes: Corvina 70%, Molinara and Rondinella 30%.
Origin: the vineyards are situated in the DOC Valpolicella area.
Fining: the wine is aged in large oak barrels for at least 10 months and is then refined in bottle for 4-6 months.

Valpolicella superiore DOC
Ripasso

Grapes: Corvina 70%, Molinara and Rondinella 30%.
Origin: The vineyards are situated in the DOC Valpolicella area.
Wine making Ripasso is the refermentation of Valpolicella on the lees of Amarone.
and fining: The result is a much greater concentration of flavours and aromas, producing extra body and pleasant smoothness. Ageing is 30% in barriques and 70% in large oak barrels for 12-18 months, and 6 months fining in the bottle.

Amarone della Valpolicella DOC

Grapes: Corvina 70%, Molinara and Rondinella 30%.
Origin: the vineyards are situated in the DOC Valpolicella area.
Wine making the hand picked grapes dried for at least 3 months. After crushing and
and fining: fermentation, the wine ages in large oak barrels from Slavonia for at least 24 months and is then refined in bottle for 12 months.
Alcohol content: 14.5% vol.

Amarone della Valpolicella DOC

RiservaGrapes: Corvina 70%, Molinara and Rondinella 30%.
Origin: the vineyards are situated in the DOC Valpolicella area.
Wine making the hand picked grapes are dried for at least 3 months. After crushing
and fining: and fermentation, the wine ages in large oak barrels from Slavonia for at least 48 months and is then refined in bottle for 12 months.
Alcohol content: 15% vol.

Garda Chardonnay DOC

Grapes: 100% Chardonnay.
Fining: in stainless steel tanks for 5 months.
Alcohol content: 12.5% vol.

Garda Cabernet Sauvignon DOC

Grapes: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Fining: the wine is aged in 225 litre barriques for at least 12 months, followed by
refining in the bottle for 6 months.
Alcohol content: 13% vol

Lycos bianco delle Venezie IGT

Grapes: Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave.
Fining: in barriques for 12 months followed by refining in the bottle for 12 months.
Alcohol content: 13% vol.

Fulvo Rosso delle Venezie IGT

Grapes: Corvina, Croatina.
Fining: in barriques for about 20 months and 6 months in the bottle.
Alcohol content: 13% vol.

Recioto di Soave classico DOCG Recioto di Soave classico DOCG Mida

Grapes: 100% Garganega.
Wine making the grapes are dried for at least 3 months. 50% aged in steel tanks, 50%
and fining: in barriques for 12 months.
Alcohol content: 12.5% vol.

Recioto di Soave classico DOCG Mida

Grapes: 100% Garganega.
Wine making the grapes are dried for at least 3 months. 50% aged in steel tanks, 50%
and fining: in barriques for 12 months.

Vino da Tavola

Alcohol content: 12.5% vol.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Italy's Top Wines - 2011 Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia Wine Guide

Meeting Winemaker and Owner Massimo “Max” di Lenardo from Friuli, Italy and Tasting His di Lenardo Vineyards Wines

In the Glass: 3 Easy Drinking Wines from the Soave Region in Italy

The Wines of casa 236 in Italy – Peter Schiller

In the Glass: 2010 Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia IGT, Attems, Italy

Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA

The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Meeting the Winemakers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, Soave, Italy

Meeting the Winemakers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, Soave, Italy

Pictures: The Members of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone

Following the EWBC 2011 in Brescia, I went with a number of fellow-bloggers on a day trip to Soave, guided by Elisabetta Tosi. We visited 3 wineries – Balestri Valda, Coffele and Cantina Sociale di Soave and met a group of winemaker –Soavecru in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, where we had lunch with them and tasted their wines. This posting is about the lunch and the wine tasting with the Soavecru group.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Elisabetta Tosi in Brescia

This is the fourth in a series of postings on Soave:

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Forthcoming postings include:

A Visit of Cantina di Soave, Soave, Italy

How Ricioto di Soave is Made

The Soave Zone

Soave is a white wine produced in the surrounding area of the fascinating middle age villages of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone, between the picturesque cities of Venice and Verona in the eastern part of the province of Verona in Italy’s Veneto region.

The majority of the vineyards are in the hills. Beautiful centuries-old castles, churches, bell towers, and aristocratic villas are all part of the rich history and traditions of this area, and indicative of the region’s principal product, Soave wines. There are about 3000 growers and 120 wineries, ranging from boutique producers making wine from tiny plots to a few large cooperatives, which make credible wine at attractive prices.

Many of the vineyards are comprised of basalt rock or volcanic stone, which explains the minerality in the wines, while other sites are more dominated by calcaire (limestone). Given the excellent drainage of hillside vineyards, yields are naturally low, which provides more deeply concentrated wines which can age for many years.

Soave has developed a reputation of producing simple, crisp wines which pair very well with Italian but also other food. Soave wines tend to have low acid. It is one of the top selling wines in Italy, exported all over the world.

The prevailing grape is the Garganega, the fifth most planted white grape in Italy. Soave must contain at least 70 percent of Garganega, and the rest can be Trebbiano, but Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco are also allowed.

Classification of Soave Wines

All Soave wines – as all Italian wines – belong to one of the following 4 quality levels.

(1) Vino da Tavola (VDT): A very basic wine, made for local consumption; the bottle label does not indicate the region or grape variety. This is the wine you typically get served in a Pizzeria or Trattoria in Italy, when you ask for the “house wine”. Simple, cheap and decent. I can tell, sitting late in the evening at a Piazza in Soave and eating Pizza with a Vino da Tavola, served in a 1 liter jug, is just great.

(2) Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): Wines that are considered to be of higher quality than simple table wines, but which do not conform to DOC and DOCG regulations. In the case of Soave, the label would only indicate the region, Veneto. So, you would not recognize it as a Soave. Sometimes, these are premium wines of winemakers who dropped the DOC/DOCG designation and instead carry the broader Veneto IGT designation, allowing them to try to improve quality by using nontraditional grapes, blends, viticultural practices or vinification techniques that are not allowed under the DOC and DOCG standards.

 (3) Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC). Soave is currently the largest DOC appellation in Italy, with 15,500 acres of vines. There is Soave DOC and Soave Classico DOC. Soave Classico DOC can only come from the Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone communes. The Soave zone produces approximately 40 million bottles of Soave DOC wine every year and 15 million Soave Classico DOC wine.

(4) Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). DOCG wines are a tick higher in terms of quality requirements than DOC wines (maximum yield for example), which is the highest category in Italy's wine-classification system. About 13,000 acres of vine of the 15,500 acres of the DOC appellation also qualify for DOCG.

There are 2 Soave DOCG appellations: The Soave Superiore DOCG and the Recioto di Soave DOCG.
The Soave Superiore DOCG production zone is in the hillside sites, outside of the communes of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. If aged for a minimum of 2 years, the wine can be labeled as Riserva.

Second, there is Recioto di Soave DOCG, which can come as Bianco (normale), Classico (from the classical zone) and Spumante. These are sweet-style straw wines, where the grapes are dried indoors in open plastic containers for from four to six months, during which they lose over 50% of their moisture, followed by a long, slow fermentation, often in small barrels.

Straw wines are typically sweet wines, capable of long life, but do not have to be sweet. For example, the straw wines from the blend of red wine grapes typical of Valpolicella can come as dry or sweet: If fermentation is complete, the result is a (dry) Amarone della Valpolicella; if fermentation is incomplete, the result is a (sweet) Recioto della Valpolicella. Fermentation may stop for several reasons including high alcohol.

Wine Tasting and Lunch with the Wine Makers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone

We stopped in Monteforte d’Alpone for lunch with the Soavecru members and a tasting of their wines. Soavecru is an association of 16 small producers. The time we spent with the Soavecru producers was exceptionally memorable, because of the music, the wines and the food.

Pictures: Monteforte d’Alpone

Soavecru

What is Soavecru? From the material which was distributed: “Soavecru stands for terroir. Each producer participates in the project only with his or her finest vineyards, those situated in the hillier areas of the Soave Classico and Colli Scaligeri subzones, with the aim of establishing a new image for the denomination. The association’s primary objective is to highlight these vineyards’ special characteristics, so as to push for a more favorable perception of Soave wine and also promote greater segmentation of the Soave wines. 

Ours is a new approach because we have chosen to create a strong synergy between small producers who are united by a love for their area. We wish to transmit the passion and quality that we put into our work which, over the course of time, has given added value and significance to the Denomination. Moreover, our desire is to pass on a healthy, well-conserved environment to our children. We want to demonstrate, through everyday operations which are open to all, that one can adopt practices in both the vineyard and winery which are ever more environment-conscious. ”

What are the ingredients of Soavecru’s formula? They are: only estate-owned vineyards in top-quality areas; only methods with little or no impact on the environment; lots of research in the winery, in order to reduce the use of additives as much as possible; and lots of education and training in order to perfect the new model of Soave. The real secret of the members’ recipe, though, is in sharing their experiences, so as to create a team spirit that has never really existed before in the zone.”

Piano Music 

When we entered the amazing Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, we were greeted by fantastic piano music.

Pictures: Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone

Lunch with Soavecru Members

We then had lunch with the Soavecru members. It was delicious. I had several plates of risotto, which was of a taste that at least I do not get often.

Pictures: Lunch with the Soavecru Members

Walk Around Wine Tasting

We had a chance to meet the Soavecru members and taste their wines. I talked a bit with Allessandro Danese from Corte Moschina. Corte Moshina produces about 80.000 bottles of wine annually, of which about 50% is exported to the US.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Allessandro Danese from Corte Moschina.

Soavecru Members

Here is a complete list of the members of the Saovecru Association.

Balestri Valda
Via Monti, 44
37038 - Soave - Verona
045 7675393
info@vinibalestrivalda.com
http://www.vinibalestrivalda.com/

Corte Adami
Via Circonvallazione Aldo Moro, 32
37038 - Soave - Verona - Italia
Tel. e Fax +39 045 7680423
info@corteadami.it
http://www.corteadami.it/

Corte Mainente
Viale della Vittoria, 45
37038 - Soave - Verona – Italia
Tel/Fax: 045 7680303
info@cortemainente.com
http://www.cortemainente.com/?lang=it

Corte Moschina
Via Moschina, 1
37030 - Roncà - Verona
Tel: 045 7460788
info@cortemoschina.it
http://www.cortemoschina.it/

El Vegro
Via Santa Croce, 105
37032 - Monteforte d'Alpone - Verona
Tel: 0456100807
biondiroberto@inwind.it

Gini Sandro e Claudio
Via Giacomo Matteotti, 42
37032 - Monteforte d'Alpone - Verona
Tel: 045 7611908
info@ginivini.com
http://www.ginivini.com/

Le Mandolare
Via Sambuco, 180
37030 - Brognoligo di Monteforte - Verona
Tel. +39 045 6175083
info@cantinalemandolare.com
http://www.cantinalemandolare.com/

Montetondo
via San Lorenzo, 89
37038 - Soave - VR - ITALIA
Tel. +39 045 7680347
info@montetondo.it
http://www.montetondo.it/

Portinari Umberto e Maria
Via Santo Stefano, 2
37030 - Brognoligo di Monteforte - VR
Tel: 0456175087
portinarivini@libero.it

Soc. Agr. Fattori Giovanni
Via Olmo, 6
Terrossa di Roncà - Verona
Tel. +39 045 7460041
info@fattorigiovanni.it
http://www.fattorigiovanni.it/

Tenuta di Corte Giacobbe "Dal Cero"
Via Moschina, 11
37030 - Roncà – VR
Tel. +39 045 7460110
info@vinidalcero.com
http://www.vinidalcero.com/ita/soave/corte_giacobbe.htm

Tenuta Solar di Bolla Egidio
Via Dante, 125/a
Monteforte D Alpone - Verona
Tel. 045 6100050
tenuta_solar@libero.it
http://www.tenutasolar.com/

Terre dei Monti
Via Micheletti, 28
37032 - Monteforte d'Alpone - Verona
Tel. 045 6175469
info@terredeimonti.com
http://www.terredeimonti.com

Vicentini Emanuele e Agostino
Via Cesare Battisti, 62
37030 - Colognola ai Colli - Verona
Tel. 0457650539
http://www.vinivicentini.com/

Villa Canestrari
Via Dante Broglio, 2
37030 - Colognola ai Colli – Verona
Tel. +39 045.7650074
info@villacanestrari.com
http://www.villacanestrari.com/


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Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Laura Rizzotto at Balestri Valda in Soave

Following the EWBC 2011 in Brescia, I went with a number of fellow-bloggers on a day trip to Soave, guided by Elisabetta Tosi . We visited 3 wineries – Balestri Valda, Coffele and Cantina Sociale di Soave and met a group of winemaker – Soavecru - in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, where we had lunch with them and tasted their wines.

This is the third in a series of postings on Soave:

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

The Soave Zone

Soave is a white wine produced in the surrounding area of the fascinating middle age villages of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone, between the picturesque cities of Venice and Verona in the eastern part of the province of Verona in Italy’s Veneto region.

The majority of the vineyards are in the hills. Beautiful centuries-old castles, churches, bell towers, and aristocratic villas are all part of the rich history and traditions of this area, and indicative of the region’s principal product, Soave wines. There are about 3000 growers and 120 wineries, ranging from boutique producers making wine from tiny plots to a few large cooperatives, which make credible wine at attractive prices.

Many of the vineyards are comprised of basalt rock or volcanic stone, which explains the minerality in the wines, while other sites are more dominated by calcaire (limestone). Given the excellent drainage of hillside vineyards, yields are naturally low, which provides more deeply concentrated wines which can age for many years.

Picture: The Soave Castle

Soave has developed a reputation of producing simple, crisp wines which pair very well with Italian but also other food. Soave wines tend to have low acid. It is one of the top selling wines in Italy, exported all over the world.

The prevailing grape is the Garganega, the fifth most planted white grape in Italy. Soave must contain at least 70 percent of Garganega, and the rest can be Trebbiano, but Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco are also allowed.

Classification of Soave Wines

All Soave wines – as all Italian wines – belong to one of the following 4 quality levels.

(1) Vino da Tavola (VDT): A very basic wine, made for local consumption; the bottle label does not indicate the region or grape variety. This is the wine you typically get served in a Pizzeria or Trattoria in Italy, when you ask for the “house wine”. Simple, cheap and decent. I can tell, sitting late in the evening at a Piazza in Soave and eating Pizza with a Vino da Tavola, served in a 1 liter jug, is just great.

(2) Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): Wines that are considered to be of higher quality than simple table wines, but which do not conform to DOC and DOCG regulations. In the case of Soave, the label would only indicate the region, Veneto. So, you would not recognize it as a Soave. Sometimes, these are premium wines of winemakers who dropped the DOC/DOCG designation and instead carry the broader Veneto IGT designation, allowing them to try to improve quality by using nontraditional grapes, blends, viticultural practices or vinification techniques that are not allowed under the DOC and DOCG standards.

Picture: Balestri Valda Vineyards

(3) Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC). Soave is currently the largest DOC appellation in Italy, with 15,500 acres of vines. There is Soave DOC and Soave Classico DOC. Soave Classico DOC can only come from the Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone communes. The Soave zone produces approximately 40 million bottles of Soave DOC wine every year and 15 million Soave Classico DOC wine.

(4) Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). DOCG wines are a tick higher in terms of quality requirements than DOC wines (maximum yield for example), which is the highest category in Italy's wine-classification system. About 13,000 acres of vine of the 15,500 acres of the DOC appellation also qualify for DOCG.

There are 2 Soave DOCG appellations: The Soave Superiore DOCG and the Recioto di Soave DOCG.

The Soave Superiore DOCG production zone is in the hillside sites, outside of the communes of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. If aged for a minimum of 2 years, the wine can be labeled as Riserva.

Second, there is Recioto di Soave DOCG, which can come as Bianco (normale), Classico (from the classical zone) and Spumante. These are sweet-style straw wines, where the grapes are dried indoors in open plastic containers for from four to six months, during which they lose over 50% of their moisture, followed by a long, slow fermentation, often in small barrels.

Straw wines are typically sweet wines, capable of long life, but do not have to be sweet. For example, the straw wines from the blend of red wine grapes typical of Valpolicella can come as dry or sweet: If fermentation is complete, the result is a (dry) Amarone della Valpolicella; if fermentation is incomplete, the result is a (sweet) Recioto della Valpolicella. Fermentation may stop for several reasons including high alcohol.

Balestri Valda

Our first stop was at Balestri Valda, just over the hill from Soave, a small family estate, founded and managed by Guido Rizzotto. Balestri Valda has 20 hectares of land planted mainly with Garganega (70%) and Trebbiano di Soave (30%). The total production of Balestri Valda is about 50,000 bottles.

Picture: Laura Rizzotto

We were received by Guido’s daughter, Laura Rizzotto.

Wine Making Philosophy

Laura explained: “Our management practices are an expression of our respect for our vineyards and the environment. Pruning, thinning, bunch selection; everything conforms to the idea of living in harmony with the vine. We harvest by hand, as tradition commands, when the grapes reach their peak, a fleeting moment that is carefully ascertained by daily testing.

Pictures: Touring Balestri Valda

Then the focus of attention moves to the cellar. This is where our wines are created and gently age, where flavor and bouquet reach perfection. The "red" cellar is where ancient culture and modern technique meet and melt. So next to pneumatic presses that gently press the grapes, and steel fermentation and storage vats stand fine oak barrels and barriques.”

Wine Portfolio

SOAVE CLASSICO – Laura: “This is the true lord of this land. The "Classico" appellation gives it a special quality reserved only for the wines made from grapes harvested and vinified in the Soave and Monteforte d'Alpone areas.”

Picture: The Wines of Balestri Valda

LUNA LONGA – a white wine

SENGIALTA - from the Sengialta vineyard, aged for 6 months in large Slavonian wood barrels. Laura:”excellent with rice dishes and with grilled fish.”

SCALIGIO – named after the Scaligera family who governed Verona in the early 1300s.

RECIOTO DI SOAVE – A Passito from Soave. Laura: “Its name comes from the term "rece", which in the dialect of Verona means the "ears", i.e.e. the upper lobes of the bunch where the grapes are ripest.”

SOAVE BRUT - a brut sparkling wine.

RECIOTO DI SOAVE SPUMANTE DOCG – Laura: “it originates from the best and ripest bunches of Garganega, naturally dried until February. Thanks to it's delicate sweetness and characteristic almond taste, it's perfect with every dessert. Serve it cold, about 7-8°C.”


schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Italy's Top Wines - 2011 Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia Wine Guide

Meeting Winemaker and Owner Massimo “Max” di Lenardo from Friuli, Italy and Tasting His di Lenardo Vineyards Wines

In the Glass: 3 Easy Drinking Wines from the Soave Region in Italy

The Wines of casa 236 in Italy – Peter Schiller

In the Glass: 2010 Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia IGT, Attems, Italy

Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA

The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy