Monday, September 20, 2021

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Picture: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Château Desmirail is another château owned by a member of the Lurton family (the fourth on this tour). Lucien Lurton acquired this property in 1980 and passed it on to his son Denis - a lawyer by profession - in 1992. Before that the château changed hands several times: the château belonged to the Desmirail family until just before the 1855 classification, when it was purchased by Monsieur Sipière, the estate manager at Château Margaux. It was under his ownership that Desmirail was classified as a Troisième Grand Cru Classé. In the early 20s century the property was owned by Robert de Mendelssohn, the nephew of the famous German composer. Shortly before the outbreak of the Second World War it came into the ownership of Château Palmer until 1980. Today, Château Desmirail belongs to the group of the „under the radar“ châteaux.

Denis Lurton was our host. We had a light lunch at Château Desmirail. Before lunch, Denis showed us around and conducted a tasting with us.




Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

History

Denis Lurton: The name DESMIRAIL has been associated with wine production in the Médoc region since the end of the seventeenth century. Jean Desmirail, a lawyer in Bordeaux's parliament, gave his name to the property when he received it as part of his wife’s, Demoiselle Rausan du Ribail dowry.

The château belonged to the Desmirail family until just before the 1855 classification, when it was purchased by Monsieur Sipière, the estate manager at Château Margaux. It was under his ownership that Desmirail was classified as a Troisième Grand Cru Classé (third growth).



Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

At the beginning of the twentieth century the property was briefly owned by Robert de Mendelssohn, the nephew of the famous composer, before being acquired by Martial Michel, a glove maker from the north of France. Michel went on to sell the château shortly before the outbreak of the Second World War to Château Palmer.

The Château Palmer company owned the property for several years before selling it to Lucien Lurton, an iconic figure in the Bordeaux wine world, in 1980.

In 1992, Lucien Lurton passed on his properties to each of his ten children. Denis, one of the older children and a lawyer by profession, took over the management of Château Desmirail. Today Denis is taking his father's work even further, modernizing the wine making facilities and putting all of his energy into the development of this Grand Cru Classé.










Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

3 Different Vat Rooms

Denis Lurton: Desmirail's remarkable winery buildings date from the end of the nineteenth century, and reflect various architectural styles. There are three vat rooms, corresponding to different periods in the property's history.

- At the end of the nineteenth century, an invention arrived that revolutionized vat rooms: the Médoc Vat Room, which operates by gravity. A remarkable example was built at Desmirail; typical of the period, it consists of an exceptional roof structure in the shape of the inverted hull of a ship, and then underneath there are cast iron pillars (emblematic of the industrial era). This room has held four oak casks since 1999.

- In 1997, Denis Lurton invested in a modern stainless steel vat room, with vats of various capacities to enable vinification on a plot-by-plot basis.

- During the 2010 harvest, a smaller vat room was inaugurated, consisting of oak vats, reserved mainly for the vinification of the older plots.

The property is also equipped with three cellar rooms, displaying a combination of traditional architecture and modern features, they are used to store barrels of the First and Second wine.

In the modernisation of these facilities, Denis Lurton and Technical Director Pierre Lafeuillade have been able to optimize and customize the existing buildings while at the same time preserving their original character.


Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

The Birth of the Wine

Denis Lurton: Harvests: Each wine is the result of a year's work in the vineyard. The grapes are hand-picked by a team of sixty people. After being transported to the vat room, the bunches are de-stemmed and the grapes are sorted and crushed, before being vinified on a plot-by-plot basis. This vinification of each parcel enables an expression of the diversity of the terroir and of the individual grape varieties.

Vinifications: Two types of vat are used for vinification: oak and stainless steel. The wooden ones are preferred for the older plots. Traditional vinification techniques are employed, with steady, gentle extraction, adapted to each grape variety.

Blending: The pivotal stage in the creation of each vintage is the blending wich is carried out in November. The owner, assisted by the technical director and the consultant oenologist, Jacques Boissenot, select which vats will be used to make Desmirail (the First wine) and Initial de Desmirail (the Second wine). The decision is based on a consensus between the team at the property and the oenologist, who brings his experience and an external eye.

Maturing: The wines are matured in barrels for about a year. For the Grand Vin, the percentage of new barrels varies depending on the vintage but is never less than 30 %. Approximately every three months, the wines are racked in order to clarify them. Finally, after a year, the wines are blended in the wooden vats and given a final clarification with egg white.

Bottling: This takes place at the château about twenty months after the harvest.

The Wines

We tasted 2 wines, the grand vin 2012 and the second wine, also 2012.



Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Lunch

Following the winery tour we enjoyed a light lunch with matching Desmirail wines at the château.







Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Bye-bye


Pictures: Bye-bye

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux – A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, with Daley Brennan, Business Development Manager, Eastern USA - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément (in 2013), Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Tour and Tasting at Château Canon-La-Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, with Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux

Tour and Tasting at Château Belles-Graves, Appellation Lalande de Pomerol, with Sylvain Garoste, Maître de Chai (Cellar Master) - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch at Restaurant La Table de Catusseau, Bib Gourmand in the Guide Michelin, in Pomerol - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with Technical Director Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Château Troplong-Mondot, Appellation Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé B - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and General Manager Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Gazin, Appellation Pomerol, with Owner Nicolas de Bailliencourts - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé, with Owner and Winemaker Bérénice Lurton and Chef à Domicile Florence Camaly - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Reynier, Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers, with Owners/ Winemakers Marc Lurton and Agnès Lurton - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Plateau de Fruits de Mer in Blaye - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Vineyard Walk and Tasting in the Chai at Château Bel-Air La Royère, Appellation Blaye-Côtes de Bordeaux, with Owner/ Winemaker Corinne Loriaud - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm in Grand Piquey/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Blending Exercise at Château La Tour de Bessan, Margaux, Cru Bourgeois, with Owner/ Winemaker Marie-Laure Lurton - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France 

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafite-Rothschild, Appellation Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owners Basile Tesseron and Michel Tesseron - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Phélan-Ségur, with General Manager Véronique Dausse and Winemaker Fabrice Bacquey - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Technical Director Jean-René Matignon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Wine-Pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Tour and Family Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Philippe Blanc, Managing Director - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Tour and Tasting at Château Durfort-Vivens, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Durfort-Vivens, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Winery Tour and Dinner at Château Bouscaut, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, with Owner Sophie Cogombles-Lurton and her Husband Laurent Cogombles 
 

 

Wednesday, September 15, 2021

Dinner at L’ Ecume in Frankfurt, with Chef/ Owner Alexandre Sadowczyk - 45th Wedding Anniversary, Germany





Picture: Dinner at L'Ecume

Annette Schiller and I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at L'Ecume in the Nordend yesterday. We celebrated our 45th wedding anniversary. Chef and owner Alexandre Sadowczyk is French. He came to Frankfurt in 2014. L’Ecume is his first own restaurant, a small bistro that could be in the 7th arrondissement in Paris, where we used to live. 

Alexandre Sadowczyk wants to offer fusion cuisine, French flair with a local twist. Reflecting his roots, Alexandre Sadowczyk`s wine list is dominated by French wines and in particular strong in terms of Champagnes. 

Alexandre Sadowczyk started his career in Frankfurt at Lafleuer (2 stars Michelin) and also worked at Weinsinn (1 star Michelin). 

The menu is small. This month there are 9 items on it. You can choose between any of them, starting with 4 courses for Euro 65. Annette and I both took the 5 courses menu with accompanying wines (for Euro 45). Between the two of us, except for the meat course, we were able to taste all courses on ther menu. 



Pictures:  Chef and Owner Alexandre Sadowczyk and Chef de Restaurant/ Sommelier David John Zisow

L'Ecume is listed in the Michelin Guide, but not (yet) in the Gault Millau Guide. I would put L'Ecume at 15 points in terms of the Gault Millau Guide rating system. The food reminded me very much of bidlabu (15 points) and SchauMahl (15 points). 

Yesterday, we were dining with 6 other people in the restaurant. Chef de Restaurant/ Sommelier David John Zisow, a compatriot from the Washington DC area, took very good care of us. 

Menu



Aperitif



Maïs Limette - Avocado
Sardine en Escabèche Eicrème - Hollunder - Senfgurken  



Aubergine Pflaume - Kapern
Tomate Feigen - Burrata 



Meeräsche Grüner Erbsen - Cantaloup Melone - Rosemarin



Tête de Moine Käse Apfel - Minze
Pfirsich Pistazie - Salbei




  „Frankfurter 7 Grüne Kräuter“ 


Petits Fours


45th Wedding Anniversary




schiller-wine - Related Postings

Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2019) 

The Michelin-starred Restaurants in Frankfurt/ Germany (Michelin Deutschland 2020)

Wine Dinner at one of Frankfurt's Best Restaurants - Weinsinn, Germany

Salon Tasting at Schiller‘s Home: Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, Vintage 2014 (2017)

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzenstein - Nils Henkel in the Rheingau, with Nils Henkel, Chef of the Year 2017 (Der Feinschmecker), Germany

Wine Pairing Dinner at 1 Michelin Star Restaurant Reisers am Stein and Tasting and Tour at Weingut am Stein Ludwig Knoll, with Winemaker Franziska Schömig - Germany-East Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture, History - Berlin, Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen, Württemberg, Franken

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Zufriedenheit in Naumburg, with Chef Robert Klaus and his Excellent Food, and Uwe Lützkendorf, Weingut Lützkendorf, and his World-class Wines - Germany-East Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture, History - Berlin, Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen, Württemberg, Franken

Dinner with Felix Graf Adelmann, Weingut Graf Adelmann, at Burg Schaubeck in Kleinbottwar, Württemberg - Germany-East Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture, History - Berlin, Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen, Württemberg, Franken

Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Iconic Restaurant in Collonges­ au­ Mont­ d’Or, France - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dining and Wining on Boulevard Montparnasse in Paris: La Rotonde, Le Dôme and La Coupole, France – Pre-Bordeaux Wine Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dining at Günter Seeger NY, a Temple for Natural Cuisine and German Wine in New York: Brilliance and Simplicity on the Plate and Ultra-premium Dry Red and White Wine from Germany in the Glass

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, 1 Star Michelin, Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Promenade au Fleckenstein: Dinner at L'Auberge du Cheval Blanc (2 Stars Michelin) in Lembach, Alsace, with Chef Pascal Bastian - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen