Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Künstler – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Wine Tasting with Stefan Traub at Weingut Künstler in Hochheim

While I were drinking wine for dinner at home with my parents, I got serious about wine, when I studied and taught at the University of Mainz in Mainz between 1973 and 1983. I was joined on that path by my then girlfriend and later wife Annette, who I met and got married to in Mainz.

Picture: Gunter Künstler and Annette Schiller in Wiesbaden

Picture: Gunter Künstler and Christian Schiller in Hattenheim

Picture: The Late Franz Künstler and Annette Schiller in Hochheim

Hochheim, where Weingut Franz Künstler is based, is very close to Mainz and my wife and I developed a special relationship with the winemakers of Hochheim, when we lived in Mainz. That was boosted by the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim – a wine brotherhood – whose founding members Franz Künstler, my wife and I are.

Against this background, the visit of Weingut Künstler in Hochheim during the Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) was a very special one. Gunter Künstler, who currently runs and owns Weingut Künstler, was not around but in Berlin at a major VDP event.

We were ably hosted by Stefan Traub and we met winemaker Rolf Schlegel in the vineyard during our vineyard visit.

We started out with a walk in the vineyard, just across the street of the Künstler Estate. Stefan then showed us around in the winery, where they were just bottling. The visit ended with an amazing tasting of the Künstler wines.

Hochheim

Hochheim is at the eastern edge of the Rheingau, well know around the world for its Riesling wines. Moving from Hochheim to the west, the fairly flat, dimpled landscape evolves into progressively steep slopes. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines in Hochheim to take back to his estate in Virginia.

Pictures: Vineyard Tour

Weingut Franz Künstler

Weingut Franz Künstler is one of Germany’s world class wine producers. It has 5 F’s (out of 5) in the Feinschmecker WeinGuide ranking. The estate is currently owned and run by Gunter Künstler, who took over from his father Franz a number of years ago. Basically, until the late 1980s Franz was in charge and from the early 1990s on, the Künstler wines were made by Gunter. Before founding his own winery in 1965, Franz Künstler worked for other wineries in Hochheim for 15 years.

The wine growing tradition of the Künstler family can be traced back to Southern Moravia in 1648. After the Second World War, the Künstlers had to leave their home in what is now the Czech Republic and the head of the family, Franz Künstler, laid the foundations in Hochheim for what was to become one of the most successful family businesses in the Rheingau.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

I remember very well the small row house in Hochheim that was the initial home of the Kuenstler winery. And I remember very well the wonderful tastings we had at the Kuenstler estate. All my life I have been buying Künstler wines and there is quite a number of Künstler bottles in my wine cellar in McLean, Virginia.

Gunter Künstler bought the Geheimrat Aschrott'sche Erben wine estate in Hochheim in 1996 and in doing so acquired a major share in the very best vineyard locations in Hochheim (12 hectares). A few years ago, as another giant leap, the Künstler estate moved into the former Burgeff Sektkellerei, just at the entrance of Hochheim, when you come from Mainz. It is very impressive.

Most recently, Gunter Künstler started a cooperation with a winemaker in Rüdesheim and began to offer wines from vineyards in Rüdesheim. This cooperation, however, is coming to an end.

The vineyard area totals 40 hectares in the Domdechaney, Herrnberg, Hölle, Kirchenstück, Reichestal, Stein and Stielweg (Hochheim) as well as Weiß Erd (Kostheim), excluding vineyards in Rüdesheim. Riesling accounts for the bulk of it (33 hectares) but there is also Spätburgunder, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Winemaking: Gunter Künstler, Rolf Schregel
Marketing: Gregor Breuer, Monika Künstler, Stefan Traub
Production: 20000 cases

Pictures: Wine Tasting

The Wines we Tasted

In the USA, Gunter Künstler just changed the importer (I reported about this here: ) and is now part of the Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Portfolio. We tasted the wines on the list below ... and a few more.

2009 Riesling Sekt brut
2013 Hochheimer Stilweg Riesling Alte Reben trocken
2012 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Alte Reben trocken
2013 Kostheimer Weiss Erd Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG trocken
2013 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG trocken
2008 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Erstes Gewächs trocken
2012 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG trocken
2013 Grüner Veltliner trocken
2012 Chardonnay Kalkstein
2013 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spätlese

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim: Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Künstler)

Weingut Franz Kuenstler, Hochheim, Rheingau, Joins Terry Theise Portfolio, USA/Germany

Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013

Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84

Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany

Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma

World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler

Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Weingut Franz Kuenstler, Hochheim, Rheingau, Joins Terry Theise Portfolio, USA/Germany

Picture: Gunter Kuenstler and Christian G.E. Schiller at Restaurant Kronenschloesschen in the Rheingau (2013)

Last year, at one of the larger wine tastings in Germany, Gunter Kuenstler, Weingut Franz Kuenstler in Hochheim, Rheingau, told me that he was in the process of changing his American importer. He had already terminated the contract and was looking for a new importer. We talked a bit about his motives and options. This year, at the Weinboerse in Mainz, Gunter told me that he had decided to join the portfolio of Terry Theise.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Kuenstler in Hochheim (2013)

The German Terry Theise Portfolio

Terry Theise is one of the leading importers, if not the leading importer of German wine in America. He has a large portfolio, comprising 40 German winemakers or so, including Doennhoff, Kruger-Rumpf, Diel, Selbach-Oster, Mueller-Catoir, Von Winning, to name a few.

Among the vast number of his followers, he has gained something like a cult status. He publishes a thick catalogue once a year with extensive comments. In addition to the compendium of exciting wine reviews, the Terry Theise’s annual catalogue is a very good introduction to German wine, both to the basics and to the current trends and issues.

Pictures: The late Franz Kuenstler with Annette Schiller at a Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim Tasting (2009)

His wines are imported by Michael Skurnik, an importer and distributor of fine wines based in Syosset, New York. Terry also imports Austrian wine and Champagnes, including excellent grower Champagnes.

Picture: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller with Gunter Kuenstler at Weingut Franz Kuenstler (2009)

If you want to learn more about Terry, the Washington Post carried an excellent article about him some time ago. See here.

2008 James Beard Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
2005 Food & Wine Magazine Importer of the Year

A few comments on the German Portfolio of Terry Theise: First, there are no red wines, although they now account for 1/3 of the German wine output. Terry is clearly focusing on Germany’s white wines. Second, nor have I seen a category for sparkling wines; for sparklers, you have to go to his excellent portfolio of Champagnes, including many grower Champagnes. Third, Terry is known for having a preference for sweet-style wines, as far as German white wines are concerned, although his portfolio also includes dry wines. Remember, Terry also imports Austrian white wines and they are all dry. Fourth, his portfolio does not include any noble-sweet wines (Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein).

See also:
Terry Theise: German 2013 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany
Terry Theise: 2012 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany
Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2011 Vintage, Germany, USA
2011: Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2010 Vintage
Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

Weingut Franz Kuenstler

Weingut Franz Kuenstler is one of Germany’s world class wine producers. It has 5 F’s (out of 5) in the Feinschmecker WeinGuide ranking. The Wine Estate is currently run by Gunter Kuenstler, who took over from his father Franz a number of years ago. Basically, until the late 1980s Franz was in charge and from the early 1990s on, the Kuenstler wines were made by Gunter. Before founding his own winery in 1965, Franz Kuenstler worked for other wineries in Hochheim for 15 years.

Pictures: Gunter Kuenstler and Gregor Breuer at Weinboerse in Mainz, Germany (2014). See also: 2014 Weinboerse in Mainz – The VDP Producers of the 2014 ombiasy Germany North Tour

The wine growing tradition of the Künstler family can be traced back to Southern Moravia in 1648. After the Second World War, the Künstlers had to leave their home in what is now the Czech Republic and the head of the family, Franz Künstler, laid the foundations in Hochheim for what was to become one of the most successful family businesses in the Rheingau.

I remember very well the small row house in Hochheim that was the initial home of the Kuenstler winery. And I remember very well the wonderful tastings we had at the Kuenstler estate. All my life I have been buying Kuenstler wines and there is quite a number of Kuenstler bottles in my wine cellar in McLean, Virginia.

Gunter Künstler bought the Geheimrat Aschrott'sche Erben wine estate in Hochheim in 1996 and in doing so acquired a major share in the very best vineyard locations in Hochheim (12 hectares). A few years ago, as another giant leap, the Kuenstler estate moved into the former Burgeff Sektkellerei, just at the entrance of Hochheim, when you come from Mainz. It is very impressive.

Pictures: Annette and Monika Kuenstler (2013)

Most recently, Gunter Kuenstler started a cooperation with a winemaker in Ruedesheim and began to offer wines from vineyards in Ruedesheim. This cooperation, however, is coming to an end. In the future, you will not see any wines from Ruedesheim in the Kuenstler portfolio.

Picture: Annette and Gunter Kuenstler in Wiesbaden (2013)

The vineyard area totals 37 hectares in the Domdechaney, Herrnberg, Hölle, Kirchenstück, Reichestal, Stein and Stielweg (Hochheim) as well as Weiß Erd (Kostheim), excluding vineyards in Ruedesheim. Riesling accounts for the bulk of it (29 hectares) but there is also Spätburgunder, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Winemaking: Gunter Künstler, Rolf Schregel
Marketing: Gregor Breuer, Monika Künstler
Production: 20000 cases

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Weingut Franz Kuenstler)

Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013

Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84

Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany

Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma

World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler

Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Posting (Terry Theise)

Terry Theise: German 2013 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany

Terry Theise: 2012 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany

Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2011 Vintage, Germany, USA

2011: Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2010 Vintage

Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

A Date with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and the 2013/2014 German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany

German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner and I met for the first time at the October tasting of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim. As a member of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim since it was founded more than 30 years ago, I always try to come to the monthly events, when I am in the Frankfurt am Main area. Sabine Wagner had just been chosen as one of the two German wine princesses who will support the 65th German Wine Queen, Nadine Poss from the Nahe wine region, over the course of her 12 months reign. By attending the event, she wanted to express her gratitude to the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim for actively campaigning for her. By chance, we were sitting next to each other at the event, but did not have a lot of time to talk to each other. However, there was enough time to agree on a date where we could talk more about my suggestion to come over to Washington DC for a number events to promote German wine.

A Date at Weinhaus Bluhm

We met at Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, my favorite wine tavern in Mainz. Mainz in the wine region Rheinhessen in Germany is, along with Bilbao in Spain, Bordeaux in France, Cape Town in South Africa, Christchurch in New Zealand, Firenza in Italy, Mendoza in Argentina, Porto in Portugal and San Francisco in the US, one of the 9 wine capitals in the world. But there is not a single wine bar in Mainz, as I know them from London, New York City, Berlin or Washington DC. However, there are a large number of wine taverns in Mainz. Typically, wine taverns do not have an elaborated list of wines, nor do they serve fancy and sophisticated food. They serve local wines, at very reasonable prices, typically from a handful of local winemakers that you do not find in the wine guides such as the Gault Millau. There is one exception: Weinhaus Bluhm.

Pictures: Sabine Wagner, Annette Schiller (Wine Tours by ombiasy), Christian G.E. Schiller, Silvia and Roland Ladendorf

See more on Wine Tours by ombiasy:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013
American Whiskey Producers in Germany 

Starting with the setting and atmosphere, Weinhaus Bluhm is a dark, a bit smoky, very basic tavern. It looks today the same as it looked when I first set foot into the Weinhaus Bluhm as a student of macro-economics at the Johannes Gutenberg University in Mainz. The furniture is functional, used, a bit worn down. Weinhaus Bluhm offers a feeling of well-being and it has a lot of charm. In the summer, you can sit on the cobble stone road outside the tavern on communal benches. It cannot get better. The food at Weinhaus Bluhm is simple and good. It does not reach out for some sophistication, as some of the other wine taverns do. It stays at the more basic range, but at the highest quality level.

Pictures: Weinhaus Bluhm, Saturday, 4 pm

When it comes to the wines, however, Weinhaus Bluhm really stands out. It is a class of itself. Nowhere else in a wine tavern in Mainz, you can get wines of German wine stars like Weingut Klaus Peter Keller or Weingut Kruger Rumpf or Weingut Teschke. Owner and Host (“Wirt”) Manager Roland Ladendorf is a wine aficionado and extremely knowledgeable about the wine scene. And what is most important, you can get a fair number of his world class wines by the glass.

Pictures: Roland Ladendorf and Christian G.E. Schiller at Weinhaus Bluhm

I had a delicious Spundekaes – a regional cheese speciality - and a few glasses of wine, all selected by Roland Ladendorf. My wife Annette had a Fleischwurst. And Sabine had a Handkaes.

Pictures: Handkaes, Spundekaes, Fleischwurst

See here for more on Weinhaus Bluhm:
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany
Rediscoverd: Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany - A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Becoming a Wine Queen and Wine Princess

Sabine explained to me a bit how it works and how she moved up so quickly. The German Wine Queen (German: Deutsche Weinkönigin) is the representative of the German wine industry. She is elected for a period of one year. In 1931, the first German wine region, the Pfalz, crowned its own wine queen. Because the Palatine Wine Queen was Germany's only wine queen, she automatically represented the German wine industry in general as well as the Palatine wine region until 1939, and then again, from 1947 until 1949.

Since 1950, the German Wine Queen has been elected in a separate competition. Each year, every German wine region selects its regional wine queen. From these regional wine queens, the German Wine Queen is chosen the following year. Until 1999, it was a condition that the candidates had to be single - they could be neither married nor divorced - and had to come from a family of winemakers. Since 2000, the candidates who apply have only had to have "clear and strong ties with German wines."

Pictures: With the 2013/2014 German Wine Princess Ramona Diegel from Rheinhessen in Mainz

For more:
Impressions from the Mainz Wine Market 2013, Germany
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Selection is no longer based so much on good looks and dancing skills today; more important, in addition to a knowledge of oenology and winemaking technology, quick wit and eloquence are required as well as proficiency in foreign languages and a knowledge of the export business.

In the first round, the regional wine queens faced a rigorous oral examination with questions about viticultural and winemaking techniques, as well as wine labelling, packaging and marketing, from a panel of 80 judges. Six candidates go to the second and final round, a televised "gala" attended by 1,300 guests and watched by more than a million viewers, where the 18- to 25-year-olds have to demonstrate they can field questions on wine-making spontaneously.

Pictures: With the 2012/2013 German Wine Queen Julia Betram in New York

See also:
The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

During their one-year term of office, the Wine Queen and Wine Princesses advertise German wine at trade fairs, wine festivals and other events. Wine Queen competition is arranged by the German Wine Institute (DWI) in Mainz.

Wine Princess Sabine Wagner

Sabine Wagner was born and grew up in Hochheim, the famous wine village in the eastern part of the Rheingau. Unusually, her parents are not winemakers. Often, wine queens and wine princess came from a winemaking family. In 2009, Sabine was elected Wine Princess of Hochheim. She stayed in that function for 2 years before being elected Wine Queen of Hochheim in 2011. In 2012, Sabine became a candidate for the regional wine queen, the Rheingau wine queen, and was elected. She told me that she was a bit of an underdog in the election but won the contest.

Pictures: Talking

In 2013, Sabine went with 12 other regional wine queens through the challenging selection process for the national wine queen. She did not make it to the very top, but came out of the selection, with her colleague from Rheinhessen, as wine princess. Nadine Poss from the Nahe wine region was crowned the 65th German Wine Queen. She will be supported in her role by wine princesses Sabine Wagner from the Rheingau and Ramona Diegel from Rheinhessen.

Sabine studies International Wine Business at the Geisenheim University in the Rheingau. She is in her 5th semester and will have a one year break.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Rediscoverd: Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany - A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

American Whiskey Producers in Germany 

Wine in Mainz on Saturday Morning: Marktfruehstueck – Farmer's Market Breakfast, Germany

Wine Tavern Beichtstuhl in Mainz, Rheinhessen, Germany

Celebrating Riesling and my Birthday at Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

Winemaker Eva Vollmer is Germany’s Discovery of the Year 2010

In the Glass: Mirjam Schneider's 2007 Merlot No.2 from Rheinhessen, Germany

Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany