Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria, with Owner/ Winemaker Josef Maier - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Pictures: Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria, with Owner/ Winemaker Josef Maier - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) which took place in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019, included 2 wine tours: Tour Burgenland and Tour Lower Austria (Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wagram).

Pictures: The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019: Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, Professor Astrid Forneck, University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences (BOKU) Vienna, Willi Klinger, Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Christian Schiller - Professor Karl Storchmann, AAWE, Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours - Christian Schiller, Herwig Jamek, Weingut Jamek, Wachau, Professor Karl Storchmann, AAWE

During the Tour Lower Austria (Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wagram) my group (there were 4 groups) visited Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau and Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal. Herwig Jamek was our host at Weingut Jamek.

I am preparing 5 postings:

Vienna, Economics and Wine: The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019Vienna, Economics and Wine: The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sommer, Donnerskrichen, Burgenland, Austria, with Leo Sommer - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Esterházy, Trausdorf and der Wulka, Burgenland, Austria, with Mag. Gerald Rouschal - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Tasting in the Vineyard at Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau, Austria, with Herwig Jamek - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria, with Josef Maier - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Tour Lower Austria - Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wagram

On the last day, we went on a day trip to the Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal and Wagram, all smaller sub-regions of Niederösterreich/ Lower Austria. We were divided into 4 groups.

We all had lunch togather in Dürnstein.

My group visited Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau, before lunch and Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, after lunch.

Picture: Tour Lower Austria - Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wagram

Kremstal

wine-searcher: Kremstal is a small, prestigious wine district at the very heart of Austria's top winemaking zone. On either side of it lie the aristocracy of Austrian wine regions; to the northeast is Kamptal, to the southwest, Wachau. As implied in its name, Kremstal centers around Krems-an-der-Donau, a historic wine town on the Danube river 35 miles (55km) northwest of Vienna. The district's vineyards produce world-class Riesling, and characterful, full-bodied Zweigelt, but the flagship Kremstal wine style is rich, round, aromatic Gruner Veltliner.

The majority of Kremstal's vineyards are located on the northern side of the Danube. Starting right at the river's edge, they stretch up into the rolling hills above Krems, northwards as far as Stratzing and eastwards to Gedersdorf. Beyond these two points, the vines belong to the Kamptal district.

Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria, with Josef Maier

Owners: Ilse & Josef sen. Maier and Maria & Josef Maier

bluedanubewine.com: 400 Years in wine. Ilse Maier’s mother’s family has lived in the hilltop village of Oberfucha since the 16th century where the family began in agriculture and brickworks. In the 17th century, Maria Theresia, archduchess of Austria, granted the property owner, whose name was Geyer, a concession to transport wine on the Danube in trade with Hungary and other regions along the river. The ship on the wine label refers to this trade. Today, the winery is housed in a 16th-century structure built of brick, with cellars beneath it constructed between the early 1300’s and the late 1700’s. Among these, the “French cellar” where Napoleon’s army stored their wine rations during a battle in nearby Wagram.

Pictures: At Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria

In 1986, after studying agriculture in Vienna and spending time in San Rapael, Argentina, Ilse joined her father in wine production. Today her som Josef is in the lead.

Geyerhof organically farms roughly 20 hectares located on the hillsides around the winery. Promotion of beneficial species, sowing of nitrogen-absorbing plants, use of compost and rock flour for plant nutrition, and abstaining from the use of all pesticides, insecticides, botrytis and weed control substances as well as soluble mineral fertilizer are all standard practices.

Pictures: Vineyard Tour at Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria, with Owner/ Winemaker Josef Maier

Loess and alluvial soil east of the winery (Gaisberg and Rosensteig), primary rock to the northwest (Steinleithn and Kirchensteig), and loamy soil to the south (Hoher Rain). 60% of the vineyard area is planted to Grüner Veltliner, 20% to Riesling, and the balance to Zweigelt, Weissburgunder, Chardonnay, and Gelber Muskateller. Recent clonal selections came from the famous Knoll vineyards. Asked if biodynamic viticulture has ever seemed to be a next step, Ilse says she doesn’t believe it to be necessary—bio is not a “step up” from organic, just a different approach.

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria, with Owner/ Winemaker Josef Maier

Fruit is handpicked and strictly sorted in the vineyard. Healthy clusters are pressed whole, and the must is intentionally oxidized in the press tray resulting in deeper flavors and greater age-ability. Wines are fermented and aged in 3,000 liter temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria, with Owner/ Winemaker Josef Maier

The slow, even fermentation never exceeds 22 °C. A small percentage of whites and the red wine are aged in neutral oak tanks or barrels. Spontaneous fermentation is preferred, but never at the expense of quality. Malolactic fermentation is avoided in the whites. No other additions are used except for sulfur before bottling. Wines remain on the lees until just before settling, gentle filtration and bottling.

The Wines we Tasted

We tasted 7 wines.

Weingut Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Ried Hoher Rain 1988

Weingut Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner StockWerk 2018 Kremstal DAC

Weingut Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Ried Rosensteig 2018 Kremstal DAC

Weingut Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Ried Hoher Rain 2018 Kremstal DAC

Weingut Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Ried wildwux 2018 Kremstal DAC

Weingut Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Ried Steinleithn Erste Lage 2016 Kremstal DAC

Weingut Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Gutsresrve 2011

Evening: Pina Bausch Dance Theater Group Performance at the Burgtheater

We ended the Vienna trip with a most impressive performance of Pina Bausch's Dance Theater Group at the Burgtheater (Masurca Fogo/ 1989).

During intermission I had a Grüner Veltliner of Weingut Mayer am Pfarrplatz (where we went the night before) as my last Austrian wine before flying out the next morning.

Pictures: Pina Bausch Dance Theater Group Performance at the Burgtheater

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Tasting in the Vineyard at Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau, Austria, with Herwig Jamek - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Pictures: Tasting in the Vineyard at Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau, Austria, with Herwig Jamek - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) which took place in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019, included 2 wine tours: Tour Burgenland and Tour Lower Austria (Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wagram).

Pictures: The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019: Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, Professor Astrid Forneck, University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences (BOKU) Vienna, Willi Klinger, Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Christian Schiller - Professor Karl Storchmann, AAWE, Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours - Christian Schiller, Herwig Jamek, Weingut Jamek, Wachau, Professor Karl Storchmann, AAWE

During the Tour Lower Austria (Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wagram) my group (there were 4 groups) visited Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau and Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal. Herwig Jamek was our host at Weingut Jamek.

I am preparing 5 postings:

Vienna, Economics and Wine: The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019Vienna, Economics and Wine: The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sommer, Donnerskrichen, Burgenland, Austria, with Leo Sommer - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Esterházy, Trausdorf and der Wulka, Burgenland, Austria, with Mag. Gerald Rouschal - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Tasting in the Vineyard at Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau, Austria, with Herwig Jamek - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Vineyard and Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, Austria, with Josef Maier - The 13th Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Vienna, Austria, July 14 – 18, 2019

Tour Lower Austria - Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wagram

On the last day, we went on a day trip to the Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal and Wagram, all smaller sub-regions of Niederösterreich/ Lower Austria. We were divided into 4 groups.

We all had lunch togather in Dürnstein.

My group visited Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau, before lunch and Weingut Geyerhof, Furth bei Göttweig, Kremstal, after lunch.

Picture: Tour Lower Austria - Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wagram

Wachau

wine-searcher: Wachau is a small but important wine district on the Danube River in northern Austria. It follows the Danube for roughly 20 miles (33km) until Krems-an-der-Donau, the fifth-largest city in Lower Austria and the commercial hub for Wachau and its neighboring districts Kremstal and Kamptal. One of Austria's most famous and respected wine regions, Wachau is known for its full-bodied, pepper-tinged Grüner Veltliner and rich, steely Riesling.

Most Wachau vineyards are located on steep (often terraced) hillsides above the Danube – a naturally sunny location where warm summer temperatures are stabilized slightly by the river below. The most flavorful Wachau wines come from vineyards perched on sun-drenched, south-facing terraces.

Wachau's steep, sweeping, vineyard-lined riverbanks could easily be mistaken for those of Germany's Mosel, even if the wines could not: classic Wachau Rieslings taste richer, riper and more tropical than their counterparts from the cooler, wetter Mosel. They have much more in common with the richest Rieslings of Alsace and Pfalz.

Wachau Grüner Veltliner is arguably the most iconic of all Austrian wine styles in the modern day. Racy, aromatic and intense, these wines are marked by zesty citrus notes and a chlorophyll-tinged zing of white pepper. Neighboring Kremstal and Kamptal are the only other regions on Earth capable of producing Grüner Veltliner like this.

Wachau lies outside of Austria's DAC classifications: instead, the terms Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd are commonly found on bottles of white Wachau wine. This three-tier wine-style classification was developed by the region's producers as a way of communicating the style of their wines, beyond region and grape variety. Steinfeder wines are the lightest: fresh and tangy, with a maximum of 11.5% ABV. The term means "stone feather", and is the name of a wispy, feather-like grass that grows on Wachau's stony terraces. Federspiel wines are the middleweight category (11.5–12.5% ABV), with the racy, precise, elegance of a hunting falcon; federspiel means "falconry". Smaragd wines are the richest and fullest-bodied, with a minimum of 12% ABV. Smaragd translates literally as "emerald" but refers here to a distinctive, emerald-green lizard which basks on the warmest of Wachau's sun-baked stone terraces.

Tasting in the Vineyard at Weingut Jamek, Joching, Wachau, Austria, with Herwig Jamek

The visit of Weingut Jamek was a very special and impressive one. We met at the estate but then immediately walked to Ried Kaus, where we had a tasting of the Jamek wines in the vineyard Klaus with  breathtaking view of the Danube River Valley.

winesolutions.com: The late Joseph Jamek is known in the Wachau and greater Austria as the pioneering leader of quality wine production and the father of the modern-day style of dry Wachau wines. For those not familiar with Jamek, especially my fellow Americans, you can think of him like Robert Mondavi and what he did for the Napa Valley. Jamek came to be a winemaker later in his life, but it was still early times for modern vini and viticulture in the Wachau. Jamek’s first single vineyard wine was the 1959 Ried Klaus Riesling bottled in 1960. In the Wachau at the time of Jamek’s rise, the Wachau was not known for dry wines and loaded the sweet wines they already made with a sugar additive that boosted the sweetness level even further. Dry wines existed but were mostly for personal consumption according to a few people I spoke to on my visit.

Pictures: Walking to Ried Klaus

Joseph had a keen palate for fine and dry wines and decided that was the style of wine he wanted to pursue, which today is now the dominant style of wine made throughout the Wachau and all of Austria in regards to Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. Today his legacy lives on with his family farming and tending to 27 hectares of vines in the Wachau, one of the largest landholders in the region.

We met the good Dr. Herwig Jamek, grandson-in-law of Joseph, in the reception house that houses the wine tasting room and the restaurant. He asked what I wanted to see, graciously allowing me to select the details of the visit. Vineyards, of course, were first and then I asked to see the remaining parts that bring the wines to life and tell the story of Jamek.

Being a father himself of 4 girls, one which was a similar age to Camille, was a happy coincidence. Herwig already had a car seat in his van that we hopped into to see the vineyards. Camille took to him pretty easily handling and adjusting the car seat for her and off we went. We drove down the Danube a few minutes and then took a small road that wound up the terraces to the crown jewel of Joseph Jamek, Ried Klaus. This was my first encounter with one of the special “Ried” vineyard designations that look like a small religious monument at the foot of specific vineyards. Think of “Ried” as a high-quality designation like Cru, or more specifically Grand Cru.

The gate of Achleiten and looking up through the gate to the Achleiten vineyard, maybe the most famous “Ried” or Cru vineyards in the Wachau.

Pictures: Tasting in the Vineyard with Herwig Jamek

Klaus was my first look at serious Wachau vines, terraces and grape bunches of Riesling and Gruner Veltliner. The upper portion of Ried Klaus is hard rock gneiss for the Riesling and the lower portions are a mix of gneiss with loess and other more alluvial soils keen for Gruner Veltliner. Adjacent to Ried Achleiten, Ried Klaus faces south, south-east looking down river to Kremstal and across to Mautern and then upriver west to Spitz.

We meandered down a few terraces to a set of terrace walls Herwig wanted to show me as they were in the midst of being rebuilt from a landslide. This was very important and extremely informative as it showed how back breaking the work is to maintain and build these walls.

Pictures: Christian Schiller, Annette Schiller, Karl Storchmann and Herwig Jamek

What happened was the wall buckled and gave way from years of pressure and ultimately rainwater in a storm that built up behind the wall. The portion that broke was composed of masonry binding with cement between the rocks that made up the bricks of a thinner wall. This terrace method has been mostly abandoned as the cement allows no flexibility or drainage under stress and the walls tend to break like a levee. Instead, what we now see are walls that are deeper front to back with longer or wider stones. To seal them smaller stones are wedges in like stoppers to effectively lock the rocks in place. This allows for water drainage so the pressure on the wall is much less. Maintenance is required for some upkeep but the work an effort over time is less.

Back at the Weingut, we toured the winemaking facilities and cellars, adorned with ornate carvings on the large wood tanks that adorn many Wachau Weingut. We saw the family home and the original restaurant that started it all decades ago as one of the early marriages of wine and food that are so common here.

Amongst the family was a heart-warming gesture, they were providing a home for a Syrian refugees family displaced by the terrible war ravaging that country. I was already a fan but this just made me like Jamek so much more.

We finished the visit with a wonderful lunch in the main restaurant which is also the family home on the upper floors. It is here we tasted the wonderful portfolio of wines, tasting the best Federspiel Gruner Veltliner of the trip and one of the best Weissburgunder that had a little age and showed the stuffing to be a long-term ager. Herwig showed us the original Riedel wine glasses that Joseph had commissioned specifically for his wines which really now the gold standard of style in the Wachau. True and original wine antiques they were delicate with a long and medium-sized flit bowl, which a short stem.

I was so excited and enamored with the visit and a little late to get Camille back for her nap I forgot to buy some wines which was a huge mistake as they are not easy to find here back in the US.

Should you be in the Wachau I can’t recommend a visit to Jamek more. You can even stay at the property in a few of the apartments that are fairly priced and nicely appointed.

A bientot!

-Tom

The Wines we Tasted

We tasted 9 wines.

Weingut Jamek, Vierblatt, Gelber Muskateller Federspiel 2018
Weingut Jamek, Ried Achleiten, Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2018
Weingut Jamek, Ried Achleiten, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2018
Weingut Jamek, Ried Achleiten, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2017

Weingut Jamek, Ried Hochrain, Weissburgunder 2017

Weingut Jamek, Ried Pichl, Riesling Federspiel 2018
Weingut Jamek, Ried Klaus, Riesling Federspiel 2018
Weingut Jamek, Ried Klaus, Riesling Smaragd 2017

Weingut Jamek, Ried Klaus, Riesling Beerenauslese 2017

Bye-bye

Thanks Herwig Jamek for an extraordinary tasting.

Picture: Bye-bye

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