Dr. Réka Szemerkényi, who was appointed Ambassador of Hungary to the United States in 2015, invited for a wine dinner with Ádám Juhász of Juhász Testvérek Pincészete, Eger, to the Hungarian Embassy in Washington DC and about 80 people accepted the kind invitation, including Annette Schiller and me.
It was an elegant, formal sit-down dinner with 10 tables. The evening started at 6:30 and ended shortly before midnight. We had a great time. It began by Ádám Juhász of Juhaszvin Winery leading a tasting of 7 wines, during which he provided useful information on Juhász Testvérek Pincészete and commented extensively on the wines we tasted. For the tasting we were served delicious Hungarian Salami, Ham, Foie Gras and Cheese to go with the wines. Following the tasting, we had excellent Hungarian Goulash and a Hungarian Dessert.
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete is a young and successful producer in Hungary. Its wines are not yet available in the US. Juhász Testvérek Pincészete is looking for importers and distributors in the US. Shoot me an e-mail if you are interested and I will establish contact with the winery.
Hungary has a Long History of Winemaking
Wine was introduced to Hungary by the Romans. During the Turkish occupation beginning in the early 16th century, displaced Serbs brought the red Kadarka grape to Eger, which was the basis for the red wine blend that later became known as Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood). It was also during the Turkish occupation that the Tokaj region became known for dessert wines, harvested late to encourage noble rot.
After the Ottoman Empire ceded Hungary to the Austrians in 1699, the Germanic influence was felt with the introduction of grape varieties such as Blauer Portugieser. From 1882, the phylloxera epidemic hit Hungary hard. The 20th century saw the introduction of modern grapes such as Zweigelt. Under Communism quality was neglected in favor of industrial production.
Since 1989, when the Berlin wall came down, there has renewed interest and a lot of new investment in winemaking in Hungary. In general, red grapes have been on the rise. The most important whites are Furmint and Hárslevelü (the grapes of Tokaj), along with Riesling, Welschriesling (Olaszrizling in Hungarian, and no relation to German Riesling) and Zöld Veltlini (Austrian Grüner Veltliner).
Hungary’s Wine Regions
Hungary has 22 designated wine regions, in all 4 corners of the country. Some people consider the red wines from Szekszárd and Villány in southern Hungary to be the cream of the crop. Around Lake Balaton, you will find the Balatonfelvidék, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Balatonboglár, and Badacsony regions. Further to the North, the Somló hills and Sopron region also offer fine wine.
Tokaji is the best known wine region of Hungary. Noble-sweet Tokaji has been Hungary’s crowning glory for hundreds of years. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, noble-sweet Tokaji was a cherished wine enjoyed by the European Courts, including Louis XIV of France, Peter the Great, Elizabeth of Russia, and Frederick the Great; it graced the wine glasses of Beethoven, Schubert, and Hungary’s native son Franz Liszt.
Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Joseph Bock in Villany, see: Expanding his Empire: Winemaker Josef Bock in Villany, Hungary and: Wine and Cheese at Bock Bisztro in Budapest, Hungary and: Dining and Wining at the Josef Bock Winery Restaurant in Villany, HungaryThe vineyards of the Tokaji region were classified long before Bordeaux, already in the 1700s, with vineyards grouped into 3 categories depending on the soil, sun exposure and potential to develop noble rot. A royal decree in 1757 established a closed production district in Tokaji and the classification system was completed in 1772.
Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Istvan Stephan Spiegelberg in Somlo, see: The Wines of Istvan Stephan Spiegelberg in Somlo, Hungary
Ádám Juhász: The historic Eger Wine Region is one of the biggest and most respected one in Hungary – stretching along on about 5300 ha land in viticulture on the southern slopes of the Bükk Mountains reaching the northern fringes of the Great Hungarian Plain. Due to its exceptional climatic potentials, nearly all authorised varieties are cultivated here.
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Erhard and Evelyne Heumann in Villany, Hungary, see: Welcome to the US – Erhard Heumann and his Heumann Wines from Villany-Siklos in Hungary and: Visiting Erhard and Evelyne Heumann and their Heumann Wines in Villany in HungaryIn order to guarantee top quality wines in production, they have to meet the expectations of strict regulations and as a result AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) varieties are produced, the flagship wines of which namely are Egri Bull’s Blood and its white wine match Egri Csillag of outstanding reputation. These efforts have won prestige awards for Eger Wine Region in both national and international wine challenges.
Grape Varieties
Jancis Robinson: If Hungarian whites, which comprise about 60% of the country's output, can be said to share a characteristic it is that they are relatively full-bodied and a have a certain Magyar fire or spice. Reds are less distinctive but made with increasing competence, as witness offerings from the likes of Malatinszky and Gere. Young Kékfrankos can be particularly juicy and appetising, while some vintages (Hungary's weather can vary considerably from year to year) yield some fine Pinot Noir fruit. Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc are starting to shine, especially in Villány in the south.
The country's legacy of native vine varieties is distinctive, rich and diverse, encompassing light-skinned grapes such as Ezerjó, Furmint, Hárslevelű, Irsai Olivér, Juhfark, Kéknyelű and various Muscats. Olaszrizling is the Welschriesling of Austria, Szürkebarátis the Hungarian name for France's Pinot Gris, Tramini is Traminer and the grapey Leányka is originally from Transylvania.
Oxidative Fermentation
When I visited Budapest for the first time after the wall came down, I was surprised by the extent of oxidation experienced in many Hungarian wines; I did not like it. I came across several times a dry Tokaji wines, with a distinctive note of oxidation. Initially, I thought the wine was faulty. But then I learned that some wine makers in Hungary use a vinification method whereby the wine is exposed to air during fermentation, as the Sherry from Spain, and adopts a distinctive style. This style is clearly not appreciated on the international market, but I found it interesting to experience this taste in Budapest.
None of the Juhász Testvérek Pincészete wines were made in this oxidative style and I appreciated this.
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete was founded in 1996 by the Juhász brothers Attila and Péter. In the last 2 decades, Juhász Testvérek Pincészete has expanded markedly. Today the vineyard area totals 300 hectares of which 100 hectares are owned.
Ádám Juhász: Our winery is situated in the meeting point of two completely different land formations, where exceptional features are facilitated both for cultivating grapes and producing wines by the microclimatic diversity and abundance of sunshine of the Bükk Mountains and the Great Hungarian Plain. The iconic wines produced here are an obvious result of the thousand year old viti- and viniculture of the region.
Our Cellar
Ádám Juhász: Welcome to one of the highest prestige traditional family run cellars in Eger Wine Region! The first vineyards dating back to the times of our gandparents on the most favourable slopes for viticulture established the basis for our family run estate winery. Our winery situated in Eger Kőlyuk Cellar Line officially opened its doors in 1996 – where volcanic rhyolith tuff soils optimize circumstances to store our wine oaks and to mature our wines. We find it most important to supply our customers with the maximum of our attention and care from the first moment of planting our grapes throughout the whole procedure of vinification and bottling until you can enjoy the delights of wine tasting of our varieties.
Our Estate
Ádám Juhász: The total of our 300 ha estate incorporates the premium slopes stretching around Eger, and neighbouring Egerszalók, Demjén, Andornaktálya and Maklár. The authorised varietals in our cultivation include Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Frank, Pinot Noir, Portugieser, Zweigelt, Blauburger and Merlot, which are presented as single variety wines on our offer, yet these also supply as base varietals for our flagship prestige wine: Egri Bull’s Blood. Our white wine selection is based on Muscat Ottonel, Welschriesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot gris and Leányka (Maiden). These also serve as a base for Egri Csillag – prestige white AOP cuvée. We are most proud of two of our premium slopes: Paptag (10 ha) and Gesztenyés (6 ha). These two slopes supply us with top quality winegrapes for the highest prestige wines in our production.
The Winery
Ádám Juhász: In vinification we keep oriented towards meeting the expectations of up-to-date challenges and try to find the shortest way to adjust to the market indicated demands – still we find it equally essential to preserve local traditions in wine making. Our reductive wine making technology results refreshing and invigorating white and rosé wines preserving the primary aromas and the fruity character of the grape berries. Nevertheless some of our red wines go through traditional vinification in vats leaving enough potentials in extended skin contact and gentle pressing. Our winery functions in accordance with hightest standard food hygienic expectations and authorised by ISO and HACCP certifications.
Our Philosophy
Ádám Juhász: Grapes and wines define our lives, therefore we are committed to contribute to the success of our wines with the share of our mind and spirit invested and we feel happy to see our efforts reflected in the final outcome.
Our goal is to find the best matching vineyards for the cultivation of different varieties, aiming the lowest possible yields to keep up with the highest standards. We go for the most modern technology and the gentlest process in vinification, the optimal ageing time for our wines, the best quality oaks in maturing – all to achieve the highest ever standard quality wines of uniquely featured characters. The undoubted proof of satisfaction is rewarded by national and international prestige awards our wines win in succession.
Ádám Juhász
Ádám, at 26, is the Head Winemaker of Juhász Testvérek Pincészete. Before taking over from his father and his uncle, he graduated from the University of Budapest, then studied in Montepellier, Bordeaux, Geiseheim with an EU scholarship, and worked in New Zealand and South Africa.
The Wines Ádám Juhász Poured
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete Muscat Ottonel 2015
Ádám Juhász: Hint of honey on the nose. A lively, crisp, fresh wine.
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Ádám Juhász: With the 2015 vintage we have changed the style of this wine. It is now made in the New Zealand style. Early harvest. Fast crushing. 24 hours soaking.
Nice greenish color. Notes of green spices, cut grass, gooseberry on the nose. A fresh white wine with crisp acidity. Green spices in the aftertaste.
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete Olazrizling 2014
Ádám Juhász: Straw yellow color. Apple and pear notes with a hint of green spices on the nose. Citrus, apple, lemon aromas on the palate. Some almond notes in the aftertaste.
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete Egri Bikavér 2011
Ádám Juhász: At the end of the 1980s, this was a very popular, low quality, inexpensive wine. Things have changed with the new winemaker generation, which has rebuild the fame and quality of the Egri Bikavér.
There are 4 grape varieties, with the Blaufränkisch dominating (40%). Long skin contact of at least 14 days. Aged for 18 months in barrel (large barrels and second year barriques).
Nice ruby color. Notes of cherry, sweet spices, vanilla, wet earth on the nose. Powerful on the palate with peppery notes and well integrated tannins.
Awards – the Egri Bull’s Blood vintage 2011 achieved Silver Medal reputation for our winery in the Olympics of Wines in Bordeaux.
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete Paptag Cuvée Superior 2011
Ádám Juhász: Only produced in good years. Flagship wine of the estate. Always a Bordeaux-style blend. The 2011 is 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. Aged for 20 months in new barrels (small barrique and large).
Ruby color. Notes of sweet spices, smoke, vanilla on the nose. A full bodied wine with round acidity on the palate, with ripe and soft tannins. Long aftertaste.
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete Gesztenyés Superior 2012
Ádám Juhász: This is a single-vineyard wine from the Gesztenyés vineyard, which is planted with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (in 1998). This wine is 100% Merlot. Extended skin maceration. Aged for 24 months in barrique barrels.
Deep ruby color. Notes of plum and cherry coupled with coffee and chocolate on the nose. Very concentrated on the palate. Nice acidity. High tannins. Sweet, long, velvet aftertaste.
Awards - Our Gesztenyés Superior wine was awarded Grand Gold Medal in Magyar Bormustra (National Wine Challenge) in 2015, which was successfully repeated in the challenge of VinAgora. The same wine won Bronze Medal in Challenge International du Vin in Bordeaux.
Juhász Testvérek Pincészete Egri Cabernet Franc Grand Selection 2011
Ádám Juhász: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 24 months in barrique barrels (60 first year and 40% used).
Very dark color, almost black. Sweet spices, chocolate, vanilla notes on the nose. A full bodied wine with soft tannins on the palate. Long lasting aftertaste.
Awards – our Egri Cabernet Franc vintage 2011 achieved Silver Medal reputation for our winery in the Olympics of Wines in Bordeaux.
The Dinner
Stone Tower Winery in Virginia
We happened to sit next to Kristi Huber, Co-Founder of Stone Tower Winery in Leesburg Virginia, which Ádám Juhász was scheduled to visit the following day.
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