A week earlier, I was at Steins Traube for a similar evening:
Bollinger (Champagne) and Weil (Rheingau): Spectacular Winemaker Dinner at Steins Traube (1 Star Michelin) in Mainz, with Cyril Delarue (Bollinger Family), Wilhelm
Weil, Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai and Chef Philipp Stein, Germany
(October 2024)
This time, we were honored by the presence of
Hubert de Boüard from Saint-Émilion, who presented his Château Angélus
wines, which retail for several hundred of US dollars per bottle (the
current wine-searcher average price in US$ is 407), and of H.O. Spanier
from Rheinhessen, who presented his Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier wines,
including 3 vintages of the ultra-premium C.O. Liquid Earth, the first
German dry Riesling that is sold via the Place de Bordeaux; the current
wine-searcher average price in US$ is 204).
Guiseppe Lauria, editor-in-chief of the Weinwisser, was also there.
Château Angélus
Château Angélus is an iconic estate, sitting in the middle of a natural amphitheatre on the south-facing
hillside of the famous footslope „pieds de côtes“, just half a mile from
the village of Saint-Emilion.
Château Angélus has been owned by the de Boüard de Laforest family since
1909, when the Domaine de Mazaret was bequeathed to Comte Maurice de
Boüard de Laforest.
The name refers to the three Angelus bells audible from the vineyards,
coming from the chapel at Mazerat, the church in Saint-Martin de Mazeret
and Saint-Émilion.
Château Angélus consists of 23.4 hectares with a grape variety of 51% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon.
The estate also produces a second wine, Le Carillon de l’Angelus. The
annual production averages 10,000 cases of the Grand Vin and 1,000 cases
of the second wine.
In June 2012, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, was named Executive Manager.
The family of Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal has been making wine in Saint
Emilion for nine generations.
Classification
In the
classification of 2012, Château Angélus was promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé A. Four estates were in that top group - Angélus,
Ausonne, Cheval Blanc,
Pavie.
The 2022 St. Emilion classification has faced some controversy and Angélus - along with other prominent estates, including Ausone and Cheval Blanc, withdrew from the process. There are now only two estates classified as Premier Grand Cru Classé A: Figeac and Pavie.
Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, Jean-Bernard Grenié and Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal
Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal is the daughter of Hubert de Boüard de
Laforest, who joined the family business at Angélus in 1976. Until she
took over, Château Angélus had been run - for several decades - by
Stephanie’s father Hubert de Boüard de Laforest and her uncle
Jean-Bernard Grenié, who we met in Washington DC. Initially, Hubert de
Boüard de Laforest worked under his uncle, but he became the #1 in 1985.
Starting with the 1988 vintage, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest rapidly
changed things at Château Angélus. He was one of the first Bordeaux wine
makers to embrace fermenting in open top vats and conducting malolactic
in small barrels. In the vineyard, he lowered yields. He began aging
wines in new oak barrels.
Today, fermentation takes place in a combination of temperature
controlled stainless steel vats, concrete and open top, oak vats at 28
to 32° degrees Celsius. Everything in the cellar moves by gravity flow.
After malolactic fermentation in barrel is completed, the wine is aged
in 100% new, French oak barrels for between 18-24 months.
In addition to progressive winemaking, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest also
has embraced new kinds of marketing, including movie product placement.
Angélus has made appearances in three dozen films, including “Casino
Royale” in 2006 and “Passion” last year.
The de Boüard de Laforest family also owns other estates in the Right
Bank including Chateau Bellevue and Chateau Daugay in St. Emilion and La
Fleur de Bouard in Lalande Pomerol. In fact, the tasting took place at
Chateau Bellevue, which is in walking distance from Chateau Angélus.
Château Angélus - Visits and a Tasting
Annette and I have visited Angélus twice on a Bordeaux by ombiasy WineTours trip:
See:
Visiting a “Holy” Construction Site: Château Angélus in Saint-Emilion, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
and have enjoyed a tasting with Jean-Bernard Grenié, organized by Panos Kakaviatos:
See: Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA
Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier
Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot are among
Germany's wineries that have reached world-class status. They are owned
and run by the winermaker couple H.O.Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot.
It was only in 1993 that H.O. Spanier founded Weingut
Battenfeld-Spanier in Hohen-Sülzen at the southernmost tip of the
Rheinhessen Wonnegau region. Weingut Kühling-Gillot can look back to a
longer history. It is located in the north of the Rheinhessen region,
close to Mainz. Carolin took over the winery from her parents after she
finished her studies at Geisenheim University.
Since their marriage, Carolin and H.O. have reorganized and streamlined
the operations of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot
two wineries quite a bit.
There is no wine made in Bodenheim at Weingut Kühling-Gillot any more.
The winemaking facilities of both Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut
Kühling-Gillot are in Hohen-Sülzen.
H.O. takes the lead in terms of winemaking for both wineries and Carolin
is more active on the administrative and marketing side of both
wineries.
Carolin and H.O. have constructed a lovely tasting room in Bodenheim at
Weingut Kühling-Gillot which is the central place for selling and
marketing the wines of both Weingut Kühling-Gillot and Weingut
Battenfeld-Spanier. You cannot buy wine of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier in
Hohen-Sülzen, but only in Bodenheim.
Carolin and H.O. live with their children in Hohen-Sülzen in a posh
villa just next to the winemakng facilities of Weingut
Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot.
This is where we were received the last time by Carolin Spanier-Gillot for a tasting
of both Weingut Kühling-Gillot and Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier wines. The
outlay of the villa allows for receiving guests in an intimite way,
which is not possible in the tasting room in Bodenheim.
See:
Steins Traube - Michelin
Thanks to the commitment of the Stein family, what began in the early
20C as a village tavern has evolved over the decades into a modern
restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine. Owner and head chef Philipp
Stein represents the sixth generation at the helm. His outstanding
culinary talent is such that there is no need for ostentation or
gimmicks in his dishes. What may, at first glance, seem simple is
actually exceedingly complex in terms of flavour and harmony, yet
accessible for all that. His dishes demonstrate a restrained elegance,
but he is also able to draw on a bolder sense of innovation when he
deems it necessary. Choosing where to sit is not easy, because the smart
and modern yet cosy interior is just as inviting as the beautiful inner
courtyard. Friendly service comes courtesy of Alina Stein, your cordial
young hostess.
Chef Philipp Stein
Philipp Stein was borne in Mainz,
where his parents were the fifth generation to own and run the Steins
Traube restaurant. In 2019, at the age of 29, Philipp and his wife Alina
took over the family restaurant, after a period of renovation. Alina
Stein manages the service in the Steins Traube restaurant.
After
working with Dirk Maus, at the Ente in Wiesbaden, with Dieter Müller and
at Waldhotel Sonnora, in 2014, Philipp Stein took up his first position
as head chef at the Favorite restaurant in Mainz. In the same year, he
was awarded a Michelin star and became the youngest Michelin-starred
chef in Germany in that year.
Philipp and Alina Stein met at the Favorite restaurant, where Alina
holding the position of restaurant manager.
Since 2017 Philipp Stein he has been a regular television chef on the
ARD program ARD-Buffet.sommmelier.podigee: Kein Sprungbrett, ein Trampolin muss Maria Vizsnyai unter den Füßen
gehabt haben, so schnell wie sie sich in die Top 50 der besten
Sommeliers Deutschlands katapultiert hat.
Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai
Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai had just returned from Düsseldorf
from the Rolling Pin Convention, where the new list of Germany's top
100 chefs and top 50 sommeliers had been released. Bravo, Maria, she
made it to #11 on the 2024 List of Top 50 German Sommeliers (Rolling
Pin).
sommelier.podigee.io: Kein Sprungbrett, ein Trampolin muss Maria Vizsnyai unter den Füßen
gehabt haben, so schnell wie sie sich in die Top 50 der besten
Sommeliers Deutschlands katapultiert hat.
Maria Vizsnyai: Sommeliere zu sein ist für mich mehr als ein Beruf. Das Foto
in den Weinbergen ist ja sehr passend gewählt. Mein Job ist mein Hobby
und meine große Leidenschaft!Mein Ziel ist es, all die verschiedenen
Facetten von Terroirs, über die Charakteristik des Jahrgangs bis hin zur
Philosophie des Winzers, welche der Wein widerspiegelt, zu zeigen und
unseren Gästen transparent und authentisch zu vermitteln.
Arriving
Zum Aperitif
Garnelen-Curry-Croustillant
Kalbstatar-Tartelette mit Mango-Miso-Mayo
2010 Grande Cuvée Blanc de Blancs, Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier
Begrüssung
Menü
Erster GangCarpaccio von Roter Wildgarnele
Purple Curry - Helles Ponzu - zweierlei Kürbis
Sot-l'y-laisse von der Maishenne - Hühnerkeulen-Buttermilch-Praline
2020 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Frauenberg Riesling GG aus der 5-Liter-Flasche
Zweiter Gang
In Käuteröl gegarter Atlantik Adlerfisch
Lauwarmer Kohlrabisalat - Senfkörner - Saublingskaviar
Gebratener Blumenkohl - Nussbutterschaum
2017 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling Kreuzberg Versteigerungswein
2019 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling Kreuzberg Versteigerungswein
2021 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling Kreuzberg Versteigerungswein
Dritter Gang
Konfierte Keule vom Stubenküken
Waldpilzsud - Liebstökel - Burgundertrüffel - Buchenpilze
2014 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling C.O. Liquid Earth
2016 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling C.O. Liquid Earth
2019 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling C.O. Liquid Earth
Vierter Gang
Gebratene Brust von der Challans Ente
Hibiskus-Haut - Gänseleberroyal - Rote Beete - Brombeerjus
2015 Carillon d`Angélus
2015 Carillon d`Angélus
Fünfter Gang
Rücken vom US Prime Beef unter der Pfefferkruste
Serrano-Bohnen - Rinderzungen-Jus
Rosmarin-Bérnaise - Pommes rissolées
2014 Château Angélus
2015 Château Angélus
Sechster Gang
Gereifter Brillat Savarin
Perigord Trüffel - Portweinreduktion - karamelisierte Haselnuss
2006 Château Angélus
2011 Château Angélus
Dessert
Crème von Vanille und weisser Schokolade
Trockenaprikose - Karamelleis - Flugmango - Five-Spice-Ganache
2015 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling Auslese Frauenberg
Petit Four
Bye-bye
Die Weine
"Absacker" (After Dinner Drinks)
Gute Nacht
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