A Rich Selection of Hungarian Wines at the Hungarian Embassy in the US

Picture: Budapest in the Summer of 2009

I was very thrilled when I received an invitation from the Hungarian Ambassador to the US requesting the pleasure of my company to an Hungarian wine tasting event at the Embassy. The Ambassador was offering us the opportunity to taste some of the best Hungarian wines available on the US market.

Hungary has a Long History of Winemaking

Wine was introduced to Hungary by the Romans. During the Turkish occupation beginning in the early 16th century, displaced Serbs brought the red Kadarka grape to Eger, which was the basis for the red wine blend that later became known as Bull's Blood. It was also during the Turkish occupation that the Tokaj region became known for dessert wines, harvested late to encourage noble rot.

After the Ottoman Empire ceded Hungary to the Austrians in 1699, the Germanic influence was felt with the introduction of grape varieties such as Blauer Portugieser. From 1882, the phylloxera epidemic hit Hungary hard. The 2oth century saw the introduction of modern grapes such as Zweigelt. Under Communism quality was neglected in favour of overcropping, pasteurisation, and industrial production.

Picture: Istvan Kiss, General Manager of Tokaji Kereskedohaz Zrt. and Christian G.E. Schiller

Since 1989, when the Berlin wall came down, there has been a lot of new investment, particularly in Tokaj and renewed interest in the traditional varieties. In general, red grapes have been on the rise. The most important whites are still Furmint and Hárslevelü (the grapes of Tokaj), along with Riesling, Welschriesling (Olaszrizling in Hungarian, and no relation to German Riesling) and Zöld Veltlini (Austrian Grüner Veltliner).

Hungary’s Wine Regions

Hungary has 22 designated wine regions, in all 4 corners of the country. Some people consider the red wines from Szekszárd and Villány in southern Hungary to be the cream of the crop. I am a fan of the Joseph Bock wines from there. Around Lake Balaton, you will find the Balatonfelvidék, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Balatonboglár, and Badacsony regions. Further to the North, the Somló hills and Sopron region also offer fine wine.

Tokaji is the Best Known Wine Region

Noble-sweet Tokaji has been Hungary’s crowning glory for hundreds of years. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, noble-sweet Tokaji was a cherished wine enjoyed by the European Courts, including Louis XIV of France, Peter the Great, Elizabeth of Russia, and Frederick the Great; it graced the wine glasses of Beethoven, Schubert, and Hungary’s native son Franz Liszt.

The vineyards of the Tokaji region were classified long before Bordeaux, already in the 1700s, with vineyards grouped into 3 categories depending on the soil, sun exposure and potential to develop noble rot. A royal decree in 1757 established a closed production district in Tokaji and the classification system was completed in 1772.

Noble-sweet Wines

Mother Nature, under non-special circumstances, produces dry wines in the vineyard. All the sugar in the grapes at harvest disappears during fermentation and no sweetness remains in the wine. There are, however, plenty of sweet wines made around the world. There are different techniques to make a wine sweet. One of them is to let the noble rot suck the water out of the grape, so that the degree of sugar in the grapes is extra-ordinary high.

Picture: Attila Toth, Agricultural Secretary at the Hungarian Embassy in Washington DC and WSET Certified Wine Educator Jason Whiteside

Another technique is used in Portugal to make Port wine. Port wine is made sweet by adding alcohol to the fermenting must so the fermentation stops and the sugar of the grapes remains in the wine. What you get, is a wine with lots of alcohol and remaining sweetness in the wine.

Botrytized Noble-sweet Wines

Botrytis cinerea is the key to the success of many of the world’s most famous noble sweet wines. Also known as noble rot, Botrytis cinerea is a fungus that under the right conditions attacks already-ripe grapes, shrivelling them, concentrating the sweetness and acidity. The grapes end up looking disgusting but they make profound sweet white wines.

Noble sweet wines made on the basis of noble rot are produced in a number of countries. The most famous ones are the Sauternes in France, the Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese in Germany and in Austria, the Austria Ausbruch and the Tokaji from Hungary. No doubt, the first noble rot wines were created by accident - both the Hungarians and the Germans have similar stories of how the harvest was delayed for some reason, but the over-ripe grapes were vinified anyway and then the resulting wine found to be delicious.

Noble-sweet Tokaji

A noble-sweet Tokaji is typically a blend of botrytised (aszu) and non-botrytised grapes. There are different levels of sweetness in the noble-sweet Tokaji wine. The more aszu grapes are blended into base (not- botrytised) grapes, and the sweeter the aszu grapes are, the sweeter the final wine will be.

Picture: Award-winning Embassy Chef Viktor Merényi

To indicate the sweetness of the Tokaji wine on the label, the Hungarians have developed the puttonyos classification system. A puttony is a traditional wooden hottes. Generally, noble-sweet Tokaji wines range from three to six puttonyos. Since joining the EU, wine with one or two puttonyo(s) is no longer allowed to be bottled.

3 puttonyos = 60 grams of remaining sugar per liter
4 puttonyos = 90 grams of remaining sugar per liter
5 puttonyos = 120 grams of remaining sugar per liter
6 puttonyos = 150 grams of remaining sugar per liter

In addition the rare Aszú Eszencia wines contain more than 180 grams of remaining sugar per liter and the Eszencia wines more than 400 grams of remaining sugar per liter.

What is interesting is that Hungarian Tokaji wines are classified according to the level of remaining sweetness in the wine, while German and Austrian noble-sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein are classified according to the sugar level in the grape at harvest.

Once mixed, the Tokaji must undergoes a slow and cool fermentation which can take several months or even years to complete. A practice unique to Tokaji wines is to allow a degree of oxidation to occur during fermentation. In fact, the amount of oxidation often becomes the hallmark of the producer’s unique style.

Picture: The Wines we Tasted

When I was in Budapest last year, I was surprised by the extent of oxidation experienced in many Hungarian wines; I did not like it. In fact, when I spent a week in Budapest earlier last year, I came across several times a dry Tokaji wines, with a distinctive note of oxidation. Initially, I thought the wine was faulty. But then I learned that some wine makers in the Tokaji region still use a vinification method whereby the wine is exposed to air during fermentation , as the Sherry from Spain, and adopts a distinctive style. This style is clearly not appreciated on the international market, but I found it interesting to experience this taste in Budapest.

What we Ate and Drank

WSET Certified Wine Educator Jason Whiteside, DWS, presented the wines, while the Hungarian wine industry and the participating wineries werel be introduced by Agricultural Attaché Attila Tóth. Food pairing was prepared by award-winning Embassy Chef Viktor Merényi.

The Food

Pan Fried Scallop Served with Brown Bread and Cheese Air Foam

Goose Liver Brulee Served with Celery Marmalade

Blue Cheese Coated Grape with Pink Peppercorn and Almond

Veal Cheek Cooked in Red Wine Served with Buttered Potato

Cantaloupe “Caviar” Served with Oven Dried Ham and Fresh Pear

Crispy Sweet Cracker with Tokaji Wine Foam and Dark Chocolate Ganage

The Wines

Törley Grande Cuvée 2008

Wine region: Etyek-Buda, Winery: Törley, www.torley.hu, Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International,joern@monarchiamatt.com, Retail price range: 15 $

Tasting notes: Clean on the nose, flavors of toast and mineral on the palate, refreshing finish.

Tokaj Kereskedöház Tokaji Furmint 2009

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Tokaj Kereskedöhaz, www.tkzrt.hu Awards: Decanter Hungary – Best value, Contacts in the USA: Vinum Tokaj, International, 1-714-794-4840 attila@drinktokaji.com, Retail price range: 8-9 $

Tasting notes: Fresh and fruity on the palate, with mouth-watering acidity, good structure, very approachable.

Disznókö Tokaji Furmint 2007

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaji, Winery: Disznókö, www.disznoko.hu, Awards: Wine and Spirits International – Winery of the Year 1997 ; Winery of the Year, Hungary 2005, Contacts in the USA: Vintus, info@vintus.com, 1-914-769-3000, Retail price range: 15$

Tasting notes: Straw yellow in the glass, attack of peach and apricot, couple with minerals on the nose, good acidity, long, mineral, briny finish.

Alana Tokaji Furmint 2006

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Alana-Tokaj, www.alana-tokaj.com Contacts in the USA: Allison Tonkin, 801-503-7693, friends@alana-tokaj.com Retail price range: 18-22 $

Tasting notes: Wave of quince notes on the nose, rich and concentrated on the palate with loads of fresh peach and nectarines, a bit of residual sugar which rounds out the body.

Dobogó Tokaji Furmint 2006

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Dobogó Pincészet, www.dobogo.hu Awards: Decanter Hungary – Best Furmint of 2006, Retail price range: 14 $

Tasting notes: 100 % Furmint, fermented partly in oak and partly in stainless steel, a lot of honey notes and a bit of petrole on the nose, spicy, wet stone and foral aromas on the palate, long finish.

Nobilis Hárs 2008

Variety: Hárslevelü, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Nobilis, www.tokajnobilis.hu, Retail price range: 18 $

Tasting notes: Fermented in oak barrels with native yeast and aged in 50 % new and 50 % 2-3 years old barrels for 6 months, attack of peaches and melon on the nose, a very perfumed wine, floral aromas, vanilla and honey on the palate, a very distinctive and memorable wine.

Patricius Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2008

Variety: Yellow Muscat, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Patrícius, www.patricius.hu Contacts in the USA: Blue Danube Wines, frank@bluedanubewine.com, Retail price range: 18.95$

Tasting notes: Wave of orange and lemon on the nose, crisp, fruity and clean on the palate, good acidity, with just a touch of residual sugar.

Heumann Kékfrankos 2007

Variety: Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch), Wine region: Villány, Winery: Heumann Pincészet, www.heumannwines.com Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com Retail price range: 20-25$

Tasting notes: Medium dark ruby in the glass, vanilla, plums, raspberries on the nose, a full-bodied wine, mouth filling with fruity aftertaste.

Takler Noir Gold 2006

Variety: Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch), Wine region: Szekszárd, Winery: Takler, www.takler.com Awards: Winemaker of the Year, 2004 Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com Retail price range: 25-30$

Tasting notes: Dark red, almost black in the glass, raspberries and wet stone on the nose, a full-bodied wine, cherry and smoky oak on the palate, long finish.

Picture: The Tables were Nicely set-up for the Tasting

Heumann Cabernet Franc 2007

Variety: Cabernet Franc, Wine region: Villány, Winery: Heumann Pincészet, www.heumannwines.com, Awards: Topwine, X. Pannon Bormustra, 2009 Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com Retail price range: 20-25$

Tasting notes: Dark ruby in the glass, vanilla and spices on the nose, a full-bodied wine, dark chocolate and plums on the palate, with a creamy texture, fine structure, long finish.

Heumann Cuvée 2007

Variety: 50 % Cabernet Franc, 20 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 % Merlot, 10 % Portugieser Wine region: Villány Winery: Heumann Pincészet, www.heumannwines.com Awards: Topwine - Pannon Bormustra Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com, Retail price range: 20--25 $

Tasting notes: Dark ruby in the glass, liquorice nose, blackberries, chocolate and spices on the palate, concentrated and full bodied, good structure and well integrated tannins, long aftertaste.

Heumann Terra Tartaro 2007

Variety: 40 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 % Cabernet Franc, 30 % Merlot, Wine region: Villány Winery: Heumann Pincészet, www.heumannwines.com Awards: Topwine Pannon Bormustra Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com Retail price range: 25-28 $

Tasting notes: Dark ruby in the glass, cassis, underpinned with a fine smell of tobacco and chocolate on the nose, a full-bodies wine, very well integrated tannins acidity structure, an elegant yet powerful wine, long finish.

Gere Kopár 2006

Variety: 52 % Cabernet Franc, 46 % Merlot, 2 % Cabernet Sauvignon Wine region: Villány Winery: Gere Attila Pincészete, www.gere.hu Awards: Winemaker of the Year 1994 Contacts in the USA: Blue Danube Wines, frank@bluedanubewine.com Retail price range: 59.95 $

Tasting notes: Dark red in the glass, attack of dried roses, cedar and cigar smoke on the nose, a full-bodied wine, good structure, a wine that can hold up with the finest from Bordeaux

Takler Regnum Proprietor’s Reserve 2002

Variety: 45 % Merlot, 25 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 % Cabernet Franc, 10 % Kékfrankos Wine region: Szekszárd Winery: Takler, www.takler.com Awards: Winemaker of the Year 2004 Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com, Retail price range: 60 $

Tasting notes: Dark ruby in the glass, flavors of berries and cherries co-mingle with chocolate and coffee on the nose, a full-bodied wine, luscious in the mouth, with green paprika and sweet pepper on the palate, long finish.

Gróf Degenfeld Fortissimo 2008

Variety: Furmint, Hárslevelü, Muscat Lunel, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Gróf Degenfeld, www.grofdegenfeld.hu, Contacts in the USA: The Country Vintner, 1-800-365-9463, Retail price range: 30-35 $

Tasting notes: Straw yellow in the glass, wave of spiced corn typical of Hárslevelü on the nose, medium-bodied wine, good acidity, notes of honey and pineapple on the palate.

Tokaj Kereskedöház 4 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú 1991

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Tokaj Kereskedöhaz, www.tkzrt.hu Awards: Vinitaly – Grand Menzione, 2000, 2003; Concours Mundial de Bruxelles 2000 – silver; International Wine and Spirits Competition, London – silver, Contacts in the USA: Vinum Tokaj International, 1 -714-794-4840 attila@drinktokaji.com, Retail price range: 25 $

Tasting notes: Dark golden in the glass, this 4 puttonyos, furmint-based aszú has a sugar content of 117 g/l, is produced from grapes grown in one of the best classified vineyards of Tokaj, the Szarvas-dülö.

Patricius 5 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú 2000

Variety: Furmint, Hárslevelü, Wine region: Tokaj Winery: Patrícius, www.patricius.hu Awards: Wine Spectator 94 points, in Top 100 Wines of 2009; Vinagora International Wine Challenge 2004, Budapest Gold Medal; Decanter World Wine Awards 2006, London Silver Medal; Japan Wine Challenge 2006, Tokyo Silver Medal Contacts in the USA: Blue Danube Wines, frank@bluedanubewine.com Retail price range: 49.95 $

Tasting notes: Dark golden in the glass, the wine announces in its fragrance and taste the apricot and peach hues of the aszú grape, sugar, acidity and alcohol create an elegant balance, smooth structure, long finish.

Alana Tokaj 6 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú 2005

Variety: Zéta, Yellow Muscat, Hárslevelü Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Alana-Tokaj, www.alana-tokaj.com, Contacts in the USA: Allison Tonkin, 801-503-7693, friends@alana-tokaj.com, Retail price range: 90-100 $

Tasting notes: Intensely fragrant, with notes of citrus, honey and essence of muscat fruit, framed by fresh floral touches, viscous and concentrated body, ultrasweet yet extraordinarily elegant, built on a mouthwateringly zesty tangerine core; long, 45+ second finish, fascinating and hedonistic, a Tokaji par excellence.



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The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Picture: Assaggi Chef Domenico Cornacchia and Christian G.E.Schiller

The Giro d’Italia is one of the world’s most famous cycling races. The 2010 Giro d’Italia, the 93rd edition of the Giro, started off in Amsterdam today, on May 8. A few days ago, Chef Domenico Cornacchia of Assaggi Osteria in McLean, Virginia organized a tasting of Italian wines that follows the route of the 2010 Giro. What a great idea!!

The 2010 Giro d’Italy

The 2010 Giro covers much of the Italian peninsula, and runs counter-clockwise from its start in Amsterdam to the finish in Verona. The Giro rolls from Piedmont on the northern border with France to the Amalfi Coast, then travels across to the Adriatic Coast. From Bitonto, the Giro travels north along the Adriatic and passes through l’Aquila in a commemoration of the earthquake which caused widespread destruction in the city. Then, it’s on to Venezia and the Monte Zoncolan near Italy’s northern border. The final week lingers in Trentino and Lombardia in the north near Switzerland before the final time trial in Verona.

Fausto Coppi

This year, the Giro celebrates the career of Fausto Coppi, with a stage in Novi Ligure, Piedmont. Coppi is Italy's greatest cycling hero. At the same time, he was dogged by tragedy and conflict, from being born into a poor farming family to his premature death from malaria 40 years later. One aspect of that life was his affair with Giulia Locatelli, referred to very seldom by her name, but more simply and detachedly as the "White Lady". They had a child together. The press ate up the scandal as the relationship became public, in a deeply Catholic country where adultery was punishable by prison. It was a liaison so influential to the nation that the Vatican intervened and asked Fausto Coppi return to his wife and family.

Picture: Fausto Coppi

Italian Wine

Italia is home of some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Etruscans and Greek settlers produced wine in the country long before the Romans started developing their own vineyards. Two thousand years later, Italy is world leader in wine, accounting for about 20% of world wine production. Italians also lead the world in wine consumption by volume, 59 liters per capita, compared with 8 litres per capita in the US. Wine is grown in almost every region of the country.

The Classification System

Italy's classification system has 4 groups of wine, with 2 falling under the EU category Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR) and 2 falling under the category of table wine. The 4 classes are:

Table Wine: (1) Vino da Tavola (VDT) - a basic wine, made for local consumption; the bottle label does not indicate the region or grape variety. (2) Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) - this appellation was created in 1992 for wines that were considered to be of higher quality than simple table wines, but which did not conform to the strict wine laws for their region.

QWPSR: (3) Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and (4) Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). Both DOC and DOCG wines refer to zones which are more specific than an IGT, and the permitted grapes are also more specifically defined. Presently, there are about 120 IGT zones, 310 DOC and 30 DOCG appellations.

Wine Regions

There is wine everywhere in Italy, from the Alps in the North to Sicilia in the South, clustered into 20 wine regions, which correspond to the 20 administrative regions. The about 30 DOCG wines are located in 13 different administrative regions but most of them are concentrated in Piedmonte and Tuscany.

The Piedmonte area of northwestern Italy is further divided into the two popular regions of Barbaresco and Barolo. The predominant grape there is the Nebbiolo.
Northeastern Italy has the Veneto area. Soave and Valpolicella are two important regions that produce many local varieties.

The large area in central Italy is Tuscany and is known for Chianti. The Sangiovese is the predominant red grape in Tuscany. The Chianti area of Tuscany is a large geographic area that is divided into eight zones. Each zone has a Chianti DOCG that regulates the Chianti made in that zone.

In Italy’s South are Puglia and the island of Sicily. The Negroamaro grape is widely grown in this area.

Italy’s Grapes

There are several hundreds of indigenous grapes in Italy. The following is a list of the most common and important ones.

Rosso/Red

Sangiovese - Italy's claim to fame, the pride of Tuscany. It produces Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino. Sangiovese is also the backbone in many of modern-styled blends with Bordeaux varietals, typically aged in French oak barrels, to produce a wine for the world market: high-alcohol, fruity and jammy.

Nebbiolo - The most noble of Italy's varietals. Nebbiolo is difficult to master, but produces the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco. Traditionally produced Barolo can age for fifty years-plus, and is regarded by many wine enthusiasts as the greatest wine of Italy.

Montepulciano - The grape of this name is not to be confused with the Tuscan town of Montepulciano; it is most widely planted on the opposite coast in Abruzzo. Its wines develop silky plum-like fruit, friendly acidity, and light tannin.

Barbera - The most widely grown red wine grape of Piedmont and Southern Lombardy, most famously around the towns of Asti and Alba, and Pavia. Barbera wines were once considered as the lighter versions of Barolos. But this has changed. They are now sometimes aged in French barrique, intended for the international market.

Corvina - Along with the varietals rondinella and molinara, this is the principal grape which makes the famous wines of the Veneto: Valpolicella and Amarone.

Nero d'Avola - Nearly unheard of in the international market until recent years, this native varietal of Sicily is gaining attention for its plummy fruit and sweet tannins. The quality of Nero d'Avola has surged in recent years. Trader Joe’s sells a very good Nero d’Avola at a very reasonable price.

Dolcetto - A grape that grows alongside Barbera and Nebbiolo in Piedmont; a wine for everyday drinking.

Bianco/White

Trebbiano - Behind cataratto (which is made for industrial jug wine), this is the most widely planted white varietal in Italy. It is grown throughout the country, with a special focus on the wines from Abruzzo and from Lazio, including Frascati. Mostly easy drinking wines.

Moscato - Grown mainly in Piedmont, it is mainly used in the slightly-sparkling (frizzante), semi-sweet Moscato d'Asti.

Pinot Grigio - A hugely successful commercial grape, known as Pinot Gris in France and Grauburgunder in Germany. Produces crisp and clean wines. Typically mass-produced wine in Italy.

Arneis - A crisp and floral varietal from Piedmont, which has been grown there since the 15th century.

Garganega - The main grape varietal for wines labeled Soave, this is a crisp, dry white wine from the Veneto wine region.

Wine Tasting at Assaggi

The Wine Tasting followed the Giro’s course by sampling the wine varietals from the region, town or place the 2010 Giro traverses during the 2000 mile race. We tasted 16 wines, like the Giro – very fast. There was not much time to reflect and take adeaquate notes. Still, it was a lot of fun in a very lively atmosphere. I felt a bit like in a Osteria in Milano.

Picture: The 2010 Giro'Italia

After the Dutch party with the

(1) Gewurztraminer from H. Lun (beautiful nose, good acidity, lingering finish) the Giro returns to Italy, touching down in Piedmont with

(2) Gavi Vigna del Lago 2008 from Laura Valditerra (crips, fresh, lots of spices on the nose) and the

(3) Barbera d’Asti Bricco del Uccellone 2001 from Braida (dark violet, expressive nose with spices, licorice, plenty of fruit, good acidity, nicely balanced, 91 points The Wine Advocate). The Giro continues its southward journey with two stages running from Carrara with

(4) Valgiano Rosso 2004 (60% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 20% Syrah, wave of blackberry and plum on the nose, a full-bodied wine, round tannins, a long, chocolaty and mineral character, 91 points Wine Spectator) from Tenuta di Valgiano to Montalcino with

(5) Brunello di Montalcino 2004 Donna Olga. Then there is a running stage with

(6) Ferro e Seta 2004 (50% Cesanese and 50% Sangiovese) from Villa Siomone-Costantini in the Appenino not far from Roma. The Giro returns to the flat lands with two stages for the sprinters from Frosinone to Cava de’Tirreno with

(7) Kerres 2005 (100% Piedirosso) from I Pentri, and Avellino to Bitonto with

(8) Quarantale 1998 (Negro Amaro and Malvasia Nera) from Rosa del Golfo, which passes through Campania to the Adriatic Coast. As it heads deeper into Abruzzo, the Giro races over bumpy territory in the earthquake country around l’Aquila, which hosts the finish of a hilly 256 kilometer stage with

(9) Dante Marramiero 1998 (100% Montepulciano CRU, one of the 3 wines that cost more than $1000 a case) from Marramiero. Then the Giro races north through Porto Recanati and Cesenatico with

(10) Conte Guido 2000 (Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon). From Cesenatico, there’s a transfer to Ferrara in Emilia-Romagna with

(11) Magnificat 1997 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, opaque purple in the glass, viscous and oily with never ending legs, thick and concentrated, long finish, 90 points The Wine Advocate ) from La Palazza Drei Doná and the final week of the Giro is a hilly affair through Venezia with

(12) Amarone Case Vecie 2004 from Brigaldara (one of the 3 wines that cost more than 1000 $ a case, almost 17% alcohol, notes of dark blueberries, spices and herbs on the nose, a full-bodied wine, lingering notes of sweetness round out the long finish, 94 points The Wine Advocate), Friuli with

(13) Tato 1999 (a barrique-aged blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, a new world style wine, purple in the glass, graphite and black currant on the nose, a full-bodied wine, good acidity, nice finish, 90 points The Wine Advocate) from Sant’Elena, Trentino with

(14) Mason 2003 (100% Pinot Noir, attack of ripe berry and earthy notes on the nose, a full-bodied wine, good structure, long finish, 90 points Wine Spectator) from Manincor, and Lombardia with

(15) Ai Suma (100% Barbera d’Asti CRU, the most expensive wine of the tasting, aged in 100% new oak, very much new world style, inky in the glass, notes of chocolate and berry jam on the nose, a full-bodied wine, dense, lush on the palate, lingering finish, 94 points The Wine Advocate). For the final stage, the Giro skips its traditional finish in Milano, thanks to a dispute with the City Council in the northern city. Instead, the 2010 Giro finishes with a 15 kilometer time trial in Verona with the amazing

(16) Recioto della Valpolicella 2001 from Monte Faustino (15% alcohol, with noticeable sweetness).

What a ride! We enjoyed tasting a comprehensive array of 16 different wines from some of Italy’s finest producers from 11 different Italian regions (Piedmont, Tuscany, Lazio, Campania, Puglia, Abruzzo, Marche, Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Friuli, Trentino).

Italian Dinner

Following the tasting, we enjoyed a 4 course Italian dinner, prepared by Assaggi Osteria's renowned chef/proprietor Domenico Cornacchia and paired with wines from the Bartali, Icario and Fontalpino wineries.

Finti Ravioli di Pesce Spada con verdurine e colatura di Alici
Mock Swordfish ravioli of vegetables, greens and “colatura di Alici”
Wine pairing: Vermentino Lugure, Sardus Pater , Sardegna
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lasagnette Verdi con ragu’ d’Anatra e Porcini
Spinach Lasagnette with porcini mushrooms and Duck Ragu
Wine pairing: Gaglioppo, I Greco, Calabria
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Spalla D’Agnello con erbe e limone, carciofi alla menta e fave al prosciutto
Roast Spring Lamb shoulder with lemon, and herbs, mint artichokes, and fava beans with prosciutto
Wine pairing: Nero d’Avola, Caruso e Minini, Sicilia
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Semifreddo al Gorgonzola con croccante alle noci
Gorgonzola nougat with walnut crisp
Wine pairing: Orvieto Passito Calcaia Muffa Barberani, Umbria

Dominico Cornacchia, Dominic Nocerino and Giovanni Cesaratto

Domenico Cornacchia is the chef at and owner of Assaggi Osteria. He was corporate executive chef and partner at Café Milano, for more than 15 years. For those who love Italian cuisine, Assaggi Osteria features homemade pasta, fresh seafood, veal and scrumptious beef.

Picture: Domenico Cornacchia and Christian G.E. Schiller

Dominic Nocerino led the tasting. Dominic is the founder and owner of Vinifera Imports. Vinifera Imports represents a number of the most celebrated producers in Italy's greatest wine growing areas. Dominic's knowledge, understanding, and enthusiasm added immensely to this event. Giovanni Cesaratto is co-owner and the Maitre d’Hotel of Assaggi Osteria. He very ably orchestrated the whole event.

Assaggi Osteria, Virginia
http://www.assaggiosteria.com/

Vinifera Imports, New York State
http://www.viniferaimports.com/





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The Wines of Chateau La Caminade in the Cahors, France - Malbec from its Birthplace

Picture: Dominique Resses and Christian G.E.Schiller

Importer Ed Addiss, owner of Wine Traditions, was joined by Dominique Resses from Cahors at a wine tasting on April 17 at Rick’s Wine and Gourmet in Alexandria, Virginia.

The South West of France

The South West is a wine region in France covering several wine-producing areas situated respectively inland from, and south of, the wine region of Bordeaux. These areas, which have a total of 16,000 hectares of vineyards, consist of several discontinuous wine islands. The brandy-producing region Armagnac is situated within the Gascony, one of the wine islands.

Even though Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc are grown in certain parts, the South West remains first and foremost a veritable mosaic of ancient grape varieties, unique to the region, including the red grape varieties Négrette, Duras, Tannat (now also the signature grape of Uruguy), Malbec (now also the signature grape of Argentina) and the white grape varities Colombard (at some point very popular in the US), Mauzac, Manseng, Courbu and Baroque.

Picture: The Wine Regions of the South West of France

The South West of France is also known for a its delicious regional cuisine: Foie gras, Jambon de Bayonne and Cassoulet, to name a few.

There are 18 AOCs, 20 Vins de Pays, with the following the best known appellations, from the south-west up to the north-east:

• The Pyrenean Piedmont: Irouléguy, Jurançon
• The Gascogne Basin: Côtes de Gascogne, Madiran, Saint Mont
• The Garonne Basin: Gaillac, Fronton, Côtes du Brulhois
• The Lot Valley: Cahors
• The Aveyron: Marcillac

Cahors

Cahors wines have a long history. The wine industry was developed by the Romans, who planted vines in Cahors even before they got to Bordeaux. The “ black wine” of Cahors reached its heyday in the Middle Ages, when they were on the table at the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine with Henry II of England in 1152. But Bordelais winemakers saw the Cahors wines as a competitor to their own wines and introduced taxes and levies that hindered Cahors’ export out of Bordeaux, and, in turn, its reputation. In addition, in the late-19th century, phylloxera nearly destroyed the wine business in Cahors. The vines recovered eventually. Things looked pretty bleak until 1971, when Cahors achieved AOC status.

The dominant grape variety in AOC Cahors wines is Malbec, which must make up a minimum of 70% of the wine, with Merlot and Tannat making up the rest. Cahors wines are notoriously tannic when young, benefiting greatly from aging.

Malbec, Cahors and Argentina

Cahors is the birthplace of Malbec. Yet, in America, if you know Malbec, it is probably because of its transfer to Argentina in the late 19th century. Argentinian Malbec is very popular in the US now and Cahors tries to piggyback on the popularity of Argentine Malbec in the U.S. The Cahors region is waving its flag and reminding people that Malbec came from somewhere else before it hit Argentina, and that Cahors would like some attention. Some producers, including Dominique Resses, are even starting to put the word "Malbec" on their labels.

La Caminade

This estate has been around since well before the French Revolution, resting in the hands first of the clergy and then, since 1895, in the hands of the Resses family. The Resses family, with others, has been instrumental since the 1950s in the rebirth of Cahors as a major wine-producing region.

What we tasted

2007 Mission La Caminade Cahors $9.99

Tasting notes: Medium garnet in the glass, smoked meats coupled with cassis and black cherry on the nose, a medium-bodied wine, in the mouth the wine has a supple leathery quality, with some stony minerality that gives way to more cassis and black cherry notes with a dusty finish.

2006 Château La Caminade "La Commandery" $19.99

97% Malbec and 3% Tannat; leafs are thinned and yield is limited to a maximum of 40 hectolitres per hectare; and grapes are 100% destalked and sorted fallowed by a long maceration and maturation in oak barrels of which 50% are new each year.

Tasting notes: dark red in the glass, hints of stones and smoke with black cherries and cassis on the nose, a full-bodied wine, with nuances of damp earth, black currant, smoke and licorice on the palate,”La Commandery” is a textbook Cahors.

Chateau La Caminade, Cahors, France
http://www.chateau-caminade.com/

Rick’s Wine and Gourmet, Alexandria, US
http://www.rickswine.com/

Wine Traditions
3604 Ridgeway Ter
Falls Church, VA 22044-1308
Phone: (703) 333-2853

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The Wines of Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley, US

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dan Duckhorn

The Wines of Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley, US

At Pearson's in Washington DC, I had the pleasure of participating in a Duckhorn Vineyards tasting with Owner and Founder Dan Duckhorn.

Duckhorn Vineyards

Duckhorn Vineyards is a 20.000 cases winery based in St. Helena, California. Margaret and Dan Duckhorn started Duckhorn Vineyards in 1976 with eight investors. Though they have often made outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon, they are best known for Merlot, a variety that they helped pioneer in Napa Valley. In 2007, GI Partners, a private equity firm, purchased a controlling interest in Duckhorn Wine Company at a valuation believed to exceed $250 million.

Today, along with its three production facilities, Duckhorn comprises seven vineyards comprising 168 acres in Napa and four vineyards totaling 153 acres in Anderson Valley. The Napa properties are located in five different appellations: the (proposed) Calistoga AVA, Howell Mountain, St. Helena, Yountville and Napa Valley. In addition to the Duckhorn, Paraduxx and Goldeneye brands, the company also has two second labels: Decoy, which uses fruit not included in Duckhorn; and Migration, made with grapes from the Anderson Valley properties. Prices for the brands range from about $30 for Decoy up to $95 for single-vineyard Duckhorn Cabernets. The company currently has 75 employees.

Dan Duckhorn

For over thirty years, Dan Duckhorn has been a leader in the Napa Valley wine community. A native of northern California, Dan earned his Masters in Business Administration in 1962 from the University of California at Berkeley. In 1976, Dan and his wife Margaret co-founded Duckhorn Vineyards with a small group of friends. Influenced by what he had learned on a journey to France, Dan decided that the Napa Valley was ideal for the cultivation of Bordeaux varietals. Going against the grain of what other local producers were doing, Dan decided against producing Chardonnay. Instead, he made the decision to focus his passion and resources on the production of a world-class Napa Valley Merlot. Though many other wineries were using Merlot as a blending grape, Dan pioneered the crafting of a premium stand-alone Napa Valley Merlot. Dubbed "Mr. Merlot" by Frank Prial of the New York Times, Dan is a highly respected leader in the wine industry.

The Wines we Tasted

DUCKHORN DECOY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009

Winery Notes: "Since 1982, Duckhorn Vineyards has been crafting a Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc that has become a benchmark for the varietal in North America. Expanding on this rich winemaking tradition, Decoy Sauvignon Blanc allows our winemaking team the opportunity to explore a different expression of Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Made using grapes from top independent growers, our Decoy Sauvignon Blanc is fermented exclusively in stainless steel to preserve its lively aromas and bright flavors. The result is an enticing wine that highlights vibrant citrus and lemongrass layers." $20

DUCKHORN DECOY PINOT NOIR 2008

Winery Notes: "Building on the traditions established by our acclaimed Goldeneye and Migration Pinot Noirs, Decoy Pinot Noir continues Duckhorn Wine Company's exploration of the depth and diversity of Anderson Valley winegrowing. Decoy Pinot Noir allows our winemaking team to highlight a distinctly plush and approachable expression of Pinot Noir that is crafted for more youthful enjoyment. The resulting wine offers bright red-fruit flavors of Bing cherry, raspberry and cranberry, alongside hints of toasty oak." $30

DUCKHORN DECOY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007

Winery Notes: "This appealing Napa Valley bottling highlights the complexity of the Cabernet Sauvignon varietal. Since 1978, Duckhorn Vineyards has been producing Cabernet Sauvignon that embodies the flavorful complexity of Napa Valley winegrowing and offers classic Cabernet elements of currant, cherry, plum and olive." $30

DUCKHORN DECOY ZINFANDEL 2008

Winery Notes: "Our Paraduxx winemaking team has been crafting a world-class red blend using Napa Valley Zinfandel since 1994. Decoy Zinfandel allows us to explore this robust and appealing grape as a stand-alone wine. It offers the concentration and complexity that has made the Napa Valley famous, while highlighting classic Zinfandel elements of raspberry, strawberry jam, white pepper, cedar and spice." $30

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006

Winery Notes: "A complex blend of grapes from the greater Napa Valley and seven of its acclaimed appellations, this wine also incorporates a significant amount of fruit from our Estate vineyards. The result is a wine that strikes an effortless balance between dark fruit, oak and tannins. Classic Cabernet elements of black currant, dark cherry, plum and raspberry are accentuated by more subtle layers of mint and black olive. Though a big, structured and age-worthy wine, the tannins are beginning to soften, framing both the fruit and the oak-inspired vanilla and cocoa notes." Wine Spectator 91 points. $70

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS HOWELL MOUNTAIN MERLOT 2004

Winery Notes: "In 1880 the St. Helena Star contended that Howell Mountain "would be to California what Medoc is to France." In 1983, Howell Mountain was approved as a viticulture appellation, confirming what the turn-of-the-century growers already knew about the uniqueness of the region. We believe that this wine will be the Medoc of our portfolio. This is a well-balanced wine with medium weight, beautiful texture, bright acid, and integrated, supple tannins. The aroma is elegant, with elements of earth, black cherry, vanilla and clove, accompanied by a slightly meaty character. On the palate, the wine is layered with rich fruit flavors, most notably blueberry, blackberry, and plum, and accented by subtle notes of lavender and sage." Wine Enthusiast 90 points $80

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS THREE PALMS VINEYARD MERLOT 2006

Winery Notes: "Three Palms Vineyard is legendary in the world of California Merlot and for good reason. A hot site with free-draining soils, Three Palms consistently delivers focused red fruit flavors balanced by an austere minerality, which contributes to elegant aging potential. The 2006 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot delivers all the vibrant fruit one would expect, with layers of red currant, raspberry and black cherry underscored by elements of piecrust, strawberry, caramel and wet stone. The tannins are dry and elegant, leading to a long, jammy finish." $90

GOLDENEYE GOWAN CREEK VINEYARD 2006

Winery Notes: "Gowan Creek is the home to our new winery and offers a perfect mid-valley winegrowing location that combines warmer Anderson Valley elements with coastal fog and cooling influences from the northern end of the valley. As a result, this wine is a classic expression of Pinot Noir, with signature aromatics, lush extraction and rich texture. The nose displays the wild blueberry and blackberry layers that have come to define Gowan Creek, supported by notes of loganberry, char, black pepper and dried meats. On the palate, the attack is immense, the tannins long and the acidity persistent, all combining to create a wine with sumptuous, dark- fruit-driven complexity." Wine Enthusiast 94 points $90

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley
http://www.duckhorn.com/DuckhornDNN/

Pearson’s, Washington DC
http://www.pearsonswine.com/




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China’s Wine Boom: Is Jeannie Cho Lee the New Robert Parker?

Picture: Jeannie Cho Lee, MW

Will the American Parker Story Repeat itself in China?

Many people say, China’s wine industry is now there were America was 50 years ago. In the last 50 years, we have seen a wine revolution and boom in America and a lawyer from the Washington DC region emerging as the most influential wine critic in the world, guiding the American consumers with their enormous purchasing power in the choice for buying a wine and having an enormous impact on wine making around the globe.

While being very popular and highly appreciated in the US and elsewhere, Parker is very much disliked in Europe. Many Europeans feel that European winemakers have changed the style of their wine to please Parker and to get high scores from him. Parker, in their view, was also detrimental to a diversified range of wine styles. Everyone was moving towards Parker’s taste. Because, when he gave high scores to wine, 200 million American wine consumers would by the wine.

Will the same happen again with China? Will a Chinese wine expert emerge as leader of the large and growing purchasing power of the new generation of wine consumers in China? Who will be the Chinese Robert Parker? Will there be another Parker effect?

The Parker Effect

The Parker effect – European wine producers were changing the way they had been making their wine for ages with the view of pleasing Mr. Parker and achieving high points in his ratings – had two root causes.

First, the globalization of the wine market. Bordeaux wine were not only shipped to London any more but around the world, including to America and Japan, where affluent consumers started to drink wine.

Second, these affluent consumers were new in the wine business. Before World War II, there was no wine in America – the period of Prohibition. After World War II American military personnel observed diners in other countries enjoying daily wine with their meals, and they brought this concept back to their own homes. The sale of gourmet cookbooks rose, wine tastings became popular as a new kind of social event and wine became a symbol of culture and status.

The American Wine Boom and the Unsure American Wine Drinker

In 1968, consumption of table wine finally surpassed that of dessert wines in the US. And by 1972, wine consumption was 340 million gallons, or about 8 liters per person, which was three times the figure before prohibition. A wine revolution had begun in the US.

But American wine consumers were unsure. Wine was a new thing. They had not gone through the school I had gone through in Europe – daily wine on the table and wine consumption during the lunch and dinner with my family, but were not sure what to buy, and were looking for guidance. They had not started to drink wine at home for lunch or dinner early on in their lives. They had not had a father or mother who taught them what a good and what a bad wine was. This guidance gave them Robert Parker and thus became the most influential and powerful wine drinker in the world.

This guidance could have given them somebody like the Brit Hugh Johnson. But they did not trust him. They wanted an American.

The Chinese Wine Boom and the Unsure Chinese Wine Drinker

Aren’t we in China in a similar situation?

The wine industry in China is developing at a remarkable pace. China could become the world’s largest producer of wine in 50 years time, experts predict.

China has a long tradition of producing all kinds of wine, but produced practically no vinifera wine before the economic reforms of the early 1980s. It now ranks 6th in terms of production, ahead of Australia, Germany, South Africa and Chile, almost at par with Argentina, which is in 5th place. The top four producers are France, Italy, Spain and the US.

The renowned Pauillac estate Chateau Lafite Rothschild, partnering with CITIC, China's largest state-owned investment company, is in the process of setting up a winery in China to produce grand cru wines there.

In terms of consumption, China was the eighth largest wine consumer last year, behind leader Italy, France and the United States in the top three spots. One of the main features of the China wine market, as supposed to western markets, is the predominance of red over white wine. Around 85 per cent of the wine drank in China is estimated to be red. However, as more Chinese women develop a taste for wine, white wine drinking is expected to rise relative to red wine.

At 0.4 liters per person a year, wine consumption is still quite low by international comparison. In France, where wine is culturally embedded, people drink 50 liters a year with consumption in Australia, another major wine producing nation, 25 liters and in the United States 15 liters. If China's per capital wine consumption was to only increase slightly because of the scale of the population it could easily shift the center of gravity of the world's wine industry.

Imports are small but growing. Consumers in China have very limited knowledge about wine. It is very difficult for them to assess the quality of either branded or even non-branded wine. Consumers still find the process of buying imported wine difficult because even in international supermarkets like Carrefour or Tesco there is little information on the label to tell them what the wine is.

Jeannie Cho Lee

Most likely, Chinese consumers will increasingly look for guidance when to buy wine. That guidance may be provided by somebody like the the Korean-born, Hong Kong-based Jeannie Cho Lee . She is a Master of Wine and the first Asian, among 300 wine experts around the globe, to have been awarded this prestigious title by the Institute of Masters of Wine in London. The recognition has landed Lee, currently a wine consultant to Singapore Airlines, sixth place on CNN Hong Kong's "20 People to Watch" list. Now, she's come up with a book. "Asian Palate" is the first comprehensive work to match Asian cuisine with wine. See here.

Picture: Jeannie Cho Lee's New Book

Regardless of whether it will be Jeannie Cho Lee, who will become the new Robert Parker or not, it will be an Asian, or more likely a Chinese who will provide guidance to the Chinese consumer the way Parker did for the Americans. It will not be a European or American for the same reasons as it was not a European who would guide the American consumers.

The taste of this person will play a huge role in the shaping up of the global wine market. Just as Robert Parker with his enormous purchasing power of the Chinese consumers, looking for guidance, in the back.

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The Wines of Veramar, Virginia, US

Pictures: Map of Virginia and Christian G.E.Schiller with Jim Bogaty

The Wines of Veramar, Virginia, US

Veramar, Social Media and Wine

Taking social media a notch further, Veramar Vineyard of Berryville, Virginia, extended an invitation to wine bloggers to come to their winery for a tasting and a tour of the winery. Veramar Vineyard runs two wine blogs and connects with wine and Web 2.0 enthusiasts, like me, on Twitter, Facebook and Flickr. I was a bit disappointed that only 3 wine blogs were represented: Virginia Wine Dogs, Northern Virginia Magazine, Gut Check and me.

We had a wonderful tasting and an exciting tour of the winery, the latter with Jim Bogaty, one of the owners; if nothing else, he is a fantastic story teller. Jim’s son and winemaker Justin Bogaty lead the tasting of excellent wines, providing a wealth of information, including Virginia labeling regulations and distinctions between Veramar and other vineyards during the tasting.

Virginia

Picture: Thomas Jefferson

Virginia is the fifth largest wine industry in the US, following California, Oregon, Washington State on the west coast and New York State on the east coast, with nearly 200 wineries and 2,500 acres of vineyards. Over the past 50 years, Virginia wines have experienced a tremendous development - to elegant and balanced, mostly European vinifera-based wines.

One thing that is not well known in Europe is the struggle in America in the past centuries to find the appropriate grapes for winemaking. In the original charter of the thirteen colonies was a royal commission to pursue three luxury items that England was unable to provide for itself: wine, silk, and olive oil. Every colony made attempts to satisfy the requirements of its charter. Despite many years of failure, the early Americans persisted in their efforts. A big step forward was made in 1740 when a natural cross pollination occurred between a native American grape and a European vitis vinifera. Other successful crossings followed. Today, European vinifera grapes dominate wine production.

Picture: Jim Bogaty

As far as white wines are concerned, the European vinifera grapes Chardonnay and Viognier are the leading varieties today. Increasingly they are made “naked” or with little oak only, with the objective of retaining natural acidity and freshness. For hybrid varieties, Seyval Blanc is still popular, but resembles now the fresh and crisp wines from France’s South West. Vidal has become the backbone of the artificially frozen ice wine, which I am not a great fan of. This is an approach, which kind of simulates the frost in the vineyard in the wine cellar. It was developed by the French. Instead of waiting for mother nature to produce frosty temperatures in the vineyard, the winemaker subjects the grapes to frosty temperatures in the cellar and presses them while frozen.

As far as red wines are concerned, there was a shift from straight varietal wines to blends. And blends have gone from being dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with a significant amount of Petit Verdot. The latter grape may well be Virginia’s future signature style in this category. There is an increasing focus on neutral oak and clean, vibrant fruit, mirroring the evolution of Virginia white wines. Tannat, Uruguay’ signature grape from the South West of France, is showing up in more Virginia wines, usually as a blend.

Finally, Virginia is increasingly impressing with its sparkling wines; the one from Claude Thibault was served at President Obama’s first state dinner a few months ago.

Shenandoah Valley

Veramar Vineyards is located in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley, about an hour's drive west of Washington, D.C, tucked between the Blue Ridge Mountains on the east and the Allegheny Mountains to the west, from the West Virginia line in the north to the James River in the south. Some of Virginia’s best wineries are there. On the trip from Washington D.C., one can also divert to an historic plantation or Civil War battlefield.

The Virginia Shenandoah AVA is geologically different from other Virginia wine growing regions. Limestone is plentiful in Shenandoah’s west-side hills, where dense clay-based soils combine with relatively plentiful spring rainfall to make it possible for some vines to be dry-farmed without supplemental irrigation. September, October and the first half of November are typically rain-free and warm, giving Virginia Shenandoah AVA vines the advantage of time to produce fully mature fruit, while the overnight cooling keeps the grapes’ acid chemistry in balance.

Veramar Vineyards

Picture: Jim Bogaty in the wine cellar

Veramar is a family run winery, founded by Della and husband James Bogaty; their son, Justin Bogaty, is the winemaker. It was established in 1999. The estate is comprised of 100 acres, with 12 acres currently planted with grape vines. Seyval Blanc is the most widely planted varietals, with 5 acres under cultivation. Norton is the next largest planting, with 3 acres, followed by Cabernet Franc (2 acres), Chardonnay (2 acres). The primary soil type consists of loamy clay overlying limestone shale. All wines are aged in American, French or European oak barrels. Production is on average three tons of fruit per acre, which is equivalent to 5000 cases; with this output, Veramar is a mid-size winery in Virginia.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Justin Bogaty

What we Tasted

2008 Seyval Blanc $32

A French hybrid grape well known both for its resistance to cold weather.
Tasting notes: Green hues hint at cool climate, a nose that is markedly fruity with melon and green apple, a full-bodied wine, a delicate and pleasant palate, good acidity, long finish.

2008 Estate Club Chardonnay Shenandoah Valley $35

The grapes are whole clustered pressed, which, justin explained, produces a superior juice. The juice is then settled and racked to Virginia French oak barrels for fermentation. The wine undergoes full malolactic fermentation and monthly batonage (hand-stirring of the lees). After fermentation, the wine ages in the oak barrels for about 10 to 11 months before bottling.

Tasting notes: An attractive, light straw-yellow color, complex and woody nose, with hints of pineapple, on the palate honey and toasty notes, combines an elegant mouth feel with richness, showing deep layers of ripe fig, honeydew melon and light oak.

NV, Tres Blanc $30

Tasting notes: A lovely blend of Viognier, Riesling, and Vidal Blanc, this fruity wine displays floral and subtle citrus notes on the nose, on the palate rich and mouth-filling, with notes of white peach, the fruit runs in an unbroken line through to the finish.

2008 Estate Club Cabernet Franc Free Run $39

Justin explained that free-run means that the grape juice runs feely with no pressing; the grapes press on their own and by their own weight.

Tasting notes: Deep ruby color; clean, attractive, ripe, subdued blackberry, cherry fruit, with cocoa, some toasty, smoky hints; good flavors, similar to nose, woody; fairly well-balanced; medium body; gripping tannins; long, pleasant finish.

2008 Veramar Estate Club Ameritage $38

Tasting notes: The Ameritage is elegant and stylish, cherry and blackberry notes on the nose that continue on the palate with a touch of toasty oak and vanilla, finishing with fine grain tannins that linger. The blend is extremely complex and bold, much like a French Bordeaux.

2006 Cabernet Franc $32

Unfiltered. There was no process to remove sediments.

Tasting notes: Dark-red in the glass, the nose opens with sweet, dark fruit aromas and rounds out with a hint of vanilla and oak, black cherry, blackberry and touch of cinnamon aromas carry through to the flavors, a full-bodied wine, the palate is full of dark fruit supported by supple tannins that are long and fine.


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Dinner in McLean, Virginia - What We Ate and Drank

Picture: The Morning After

We had a dinner at our house in McLean, Virginia. We were 8 people. Here is what we ate and drank. Benjamin and Annette Schiller did the cooking; in addition Fuad Issa cooked the Syrian dish.

Aperitif

Food: German Knaeckebrot with Avocado Salsa

Wine: NV Taittinger, Brut Reserve, Champagne, France, US$ 35

Wine: NV Veuve Cliquot-Ponsardin, Brut, Champagne, France, US$ 35

Tasting Notes: These are classic, fine Champagnes, but the Taittinger came out slightly ahead, with layers of pears and white peaches on the nose, lots of fine bubbles, earthiness and wet stone notes on the palate, and a creamy finish, true masterpiece in each sip.

First Course

Food: Green Leaf Salad with Salmon, Roasted Fennel, Olives, Grapefruit and Tamarind Dressing

Wine: 2006, Albermarle, Rose, Kluge, Virginia

Picture: President Thomas Jefferson

Virginia is the fifth largest wine industry in the US, following California, Oregon, Washington State on the west coast and New York State on the east coast, with nearly 200 wineries and 2,500 acres of vineyards. Over the past 50 years, Virginia wines have experienced a tremendous development - to elegant and balanced mostly European vinifera-based wines.

One thing that is not well known in Europe is the struggle in America in the past centuries to find the appropriate grapes for winemaking. In the original charter of the thirteen colonies was a royal commission to pursue three luxury items that England was unable to provide for itself: wine, silk, and olive oil. Every colony made attempts to satisfy the requirements of its charter, but made only limited progress. The problem was that on the one hand there were the native American grapes. All these native American grapes were cold tolerant and disease and pest resistant, but not well suited for wine making, due to their coarseness, high tannins, and "foxy" flavors. On the other hand, the vitis vinifera which settlers brought from Europe, were well suited for wine making, but uniformly did not survive long enough to produce a crop.

Despite many years of failure, the early Americans persisted in their efforts. And they had some success. First, they planted several different native varietals in the same vineyard and over time some natural mutations occurred; the results from some of these hybrids were far better than any of the unadulterated natives. A big step forward was made in 1740 when a natural cross pollination occurred between a native American grape and a European vitis vinifera. Other successful crossings followed.

Only native American grapes and hybrids were grown in Virginia half a century ago. Today, the picture is quite different. European vinifera grapes dominate wine production.

Tasting Notes: Albemarle is the county in Virginia where wine connoisseur and American President Thomas Jefferson grew up. A fresh, crisp rose from one of Virginia’s premier wine producers; a French winemaker in the Provence could not have made it better. US $ 15.

Second Course

Food: Sea Scallops with Green Vegetables and Pomegranate Seeds

Wine: 2001 Riesling Gold-Quadrat, Sybille Kuntz, Mosel, Germany

Sybille Kuntz is an astonishing winemaker who has been present in the American market with dry Rieslings for a number of years now. She is on the wine list of many top Restaurants like Keller’s Per Se and Nobu in New York City.

Tasting Notes: This is an ultra-premium quality wine. Pale yellow, greenish in the glass; hint of honey, suggesting that some of the grapes were botrytised, wet stone and slate on the nose; elegant, generously textured and full bodied wine with marked acidity on the palate, lasting finish.

Here is what Sybille Kuntz says about the Gold-Quadrat: Grapes are selected from the most mature and oldest vineyard sites of the Estate and these old vines, planted in the 1920s, have low yields and small berries with intense flavor profiles. We take great care to pre-pick the steep Riesling vineyards several times. Only the healthy and most mature grapes remain on the vines. The grapes continue to ripen until they reach a natural potential alcohol level of 11-11,5 % by vol . From these very ripe and golden yellow grapes we make the much celebrated: Gold-Quadrat.

I bought 2 cases of this wine at a steeply discounted price in Washington DC about half a year ago. Why was the wine on the market at a steep discount? I guess part of the explanation is that the retailer found it difficult to sell the wine to the American customers, as it is a wine from the vintage 2001 already. In my view, the wine has nicely settled down in the bottle during the past years. It has not yet started to age, but has become a ripe, mature, great wine. To compare the wine with women, I would say, the wine is like the beautiful Catherine Zeta-Jones, who just turned forty, well established in her life, married to Michael Douglas, mother, very attractive and sexy. But American customers appear to prefer Sienna Miller (who I saw in a Show on Broadway in New York--an outstanding performance in "After Miss Julie", a Strindberg classic), she is in her early 20s, stunning look, very sexy, but still searching for her place in life, with great prospects.

Wine: 1990 Bacheracher Posten, Riesling , Spaetlese trocken, Bastian, Mittelrhein, Germany

Tasting Notes: A bone dry 20 years old Spaetlese trocken from 2 grapes Gault and Millau producer Fritz Bastion, which I bought many years ago at his wine tavern in Bacharach in the Rhine valley. His wines have a high acidity level and we had a hard time drinking them when they were younger. The wine has aged very well and presents itself with amazing freshness; can easily be put away for another 5 to 10 years.

Third Course

Food: Seared Fois Gras with Fig Sauce and Fresh Dates

Wine: 1998 Nightingale, Botrytised, Napa Valley, Beringer, USA

2/3 Semillion and 1/3 Sauvignon Blanc; the juice for this wine was fermented and aged in small French Nevers oak barrels for 19 months; sugar prior to fermentation was 35 Brix and residual sugar in the finished wine is 125 grams per liter; 14,2 % alcohol

Jacob Beringer, the founder of Beringer, left his home in Mainz, Germany, in 1868 to start a new life in the U.S., enticed by his brother, Frederick, who had sailed to New York five years earlier and wrote home constantly of the grand opportunities to be found in the vast new world. New York did not appeal to Jacob, however. He had enjoyed working in wine cellars in Germany when he was younger and had heard that the warm, sunny climate of California was ideal for growing wine grapes. So in 1870 he traveled by train from the East Coast, first to San Francisco and then on to Napa Valley . To his delight, he discovered rocky, well-drained soils similar to those in his native Rhine Valley. The volcanic soil was ideal for growing the same grapes found in Europe 's great winemaking regions. Best of all, the hills could be dug out to provide storage and aging tunnels that would maintain the constant temperature needed to produce fine wines. Jacob and Frederick together bought land in 1875 and set about making wines that compared to the best in Europe . In 1876, they founded the Beringer Winery.

Tasting Notes: This very special wine, in a small bottle, offers a golden hue and features aromas of apricot nectar, crème brulee, vanilla and honey. Rich flavors of butterscotch, stone fruit and spice, with just a slight hint of cigar box, coat the mouth and linger for a long, luxurious finish. We drank 2 bottles of this delicious wine. US$ 40

Fourth Course, prepared by Fuad Issa

Food: Walnut Chicken with Aleppo Peppers (Aleppo is a large city in the North of Syria, where Fuad Issa was borne)

Wine: 1996 Barbera d’Alba, Alba, Piedmont, Pio Cesare, Italy


This is the wine bottle which was at the origin of the wine dinner. Bob, Lynette, my wife and I met the owner of Pio Cesare, Pio Boffa, a few weeks ago and I remembered that I still had a Barbera from the mid 1990s in my cellar somewhere.

The province of Piedmont is in the northwestern corner of Italy, located in the foothills of the Alps forming its border with France and Switzerland. The most well known wines from the region are Barolo and Barbaresco. They are made from the Nebbiolo grape. While Turin is the capital of the Piedmont, Alba and Asti are at the heart of the region's wine industry.

For five generations, the Pio Cesare family has now been producing Piemontese wines in its ancient cellars, located in the center of the town of Alba. The cellars walls date back to the Roman Empire period. Pio Cesare ownes more than 50 hectares of vineyards. In addition, Pio Cesare has fostered long term relationships with growers and manages all aspects of viticultures in these vineyards. The name of this estate is derived from the name of its founder, Cesare Pio, who set up this now long established family business in 1881. It remains in the family, with Pio Boffa, the great grandson of the founder, at the helm.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Pio Boffa at Teatro Goldoni in Washington DC

Tasting Notes: Ruby-red in the glass, cherry and red currant on the nose, a full-bodied and complete wine with notes of chocolate mint and mushrooms on the palate, a herbal-fruity finish of some length.

Main Course

Food: Lamb Chops with Red Beet Mousse and Celery Mousse

Wine: 2005 Clos Apalta, Limited Release, Casa Lapostolle, Chile

Wine Spectator Wine of the Year 2008 with 96 points; 6000 cases made; a blend of Chile’s distinctive Carmenere variety with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon; rich and velvet; U$75


Casa Lapostolle, established in 1994, was originally a joint French and Chilean operation, until the French side bought out the Chilenian partners. The Marnier-Lapostolle family, the French half of the original partnership, are best known for their Grand Marnier Liqueur, although they also own the Chateau de Sancerre in the Loire Valley. Casa Lapostolle is now a sizable operation with an amazing 300 hectares, about the size of the smaller German wine regions, planted up with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere. Michel Rolland consults exclusively for Casa Lapostolle in Chile. Clos Apalta is Casa Lapostolle’s premium cuvee.

Tasting Notes: A blend of 80% Merlot and Carmenere, with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark ruby red in the glass with thick legs, a bit restrained on the nose, a full-bodied wine, with a creamy mouthfeel, long lasting finish.

Wine: 1995 Chateau Hourtin-Ducasse, Haut Medoc, Cru Bourgeois, France

Chateau Hourtin-Ducasse is located in Saint-Sauveur at the edge of the Pauillac commune. Its name undoubtedly comes from the juxtaposition of those of two of its former owners, Mr. Hourtin (18th century) and Mr. Fleury-Ducasse (19thcentury). The Chateau was acquired in 1976 by Mr. Marengo.The property includes approximately 30 hectares, including 25 devoted to the vine.

Tasting Notes: Dark red in the glass, notes of dark plum and cassis on the nose, a 15 years old wine that displays an amazing freshness on the palate, with blackcurrant, cedar, and dark fruits, drying finish.


Cheese

Humbold fog, California
Cowgirl Red Hawk, California
Aged Capot Cheddar, Vermont
Hirtenkaese, Bavaria, Germany
Blue Cheese, cow milk, Wisconsin

When you talk in Paris with a Frenchman about cheese made in the US and tell him that there are now excellent such cheeses made by very devoted and knowledgeable cheese makers, he will not believe you. But there is a rapidly expanding production of great artisanal cheeses in the US, though starting from a very low level. Cheese will probably never play the role in an American household it plays in a French household. The typical French grew up in a household where in the evening his or her mother would serve a four courses meal---crudites as starter, main plate, cheese and dessert, with a glass of wine of course, or two. The French have it in the Jeans. He or she knows so much about good food, including cheese. In the US, it is very different. Cheese is eaten as topping for Pizza or for the cheeseburger or similar food. But America is changing. Some Americans have started to show serious interest for high-quality cheese and artisanal cheese makers are springing up across the country.

Wine: 2004 Barolo, Alba, Piedmont, Pio Cesare, Italy

In the past, Barolos used to be very tannic, and they needed a lot of time to soften up. This was so because fermenting wine sat on the grape skins for at least three weeks, extracting huge amounts of tannins; then it was aged in large, wooden casks for years. In order to meet the international taste, which preferred fruitier, more accessible styles, the "modernist" winemakers cut fermentation times to a maximum of ten days and put the wine in new French barriques. The results, said “traditionalists", were wines that weren't even recognizable as Barolo and tasted more of new oak than of wine.

Tasting notes: Dark red in the glass, notes of black tea, strawberry, cassis and tobacco on the nose, full-bodied powerful Italian red wine, that will not soon be forgotten, lush and juicy on the palate, leaning more to the new style. In the Wine Spectator 2008 list, where the Casa Lapostollo was the Number One wine, this one was among the top 10 wines, 94 points, US$62

Dessert

German Quark with Cassis
Mousse au Chocolat

Wine: 1999 John Hancock, Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Stanley Brothers, Australia

Tasting Notes: A juicy and jammy New World Shiraz wine from Barossa Valley, which has already aged a little bit.

Digestive: Asbach Uralt, Germany

In Europe, for generations, Asbach Uralt Brandy has been savored and appreciated by connoisseurs of fine brandies. But it is in no way any way near the great Cognacs or Armagnacs from France. A German day to day Brandy

Picture: The bottles




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