Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Georg and Stefan Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim

I met Georg Rumpf - the young and energetic winemaker of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe region in Germany - for the first time at a presentation of the VDP wine producers of the Nahe, Rheinhessen and Ahr regions in Mainz, Germany in 2010. Then, after a tasting of German wines in Washington DC, lead by Phil Bernstein from MacArthur Beverages (the tasting covered 4 winemakers of the Therry Theise Portfolio and one of them was Weingut Kruger-Rumpf), George invited me to come over to his winery the next time I was in Germany.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Phil Bernstein in Washington DC

I gladly accepted Georg's invitation. In fact, since the invitation at the beginning of this year, I visited Weingut Kruger-Rumpf twice, I also met Georg’s father, Stefan Rumpf, and had dinner at the lovely Kruger-Rumpf country restaurant, which is part of the Kruger-Rumpf Estate and run by Georg's mother Cornelia. Further, my wife Annette and my daughter Katharina went to the winery for the autumn wine presentation and got a special cellar tour by Georg. My wife struck a deal with Georg and bought 4 old barrique barrels for our party cellar in Frankfurt am Main. We will soon go back to pick up the barrels and to have dinner again at their wonderful country restaurant.

I visited Weingut Kruger-Rumpf twice in the last couple of months. The first time, Georg had to reschedule because of an American client. But since I had scheduled a visit of Schlossgut Diel, which is just a stone throw away from Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, for the same day, we went there anyway and had a wonderful dinner at the lovely Kruger-Rumpf country restaurant. Georg and Stefan Rumpf were sitting next to us with the American client and were so kind to share with us some of the noble-sweet wines they were tasting. The second time - after a tasting with German Pinot Noir Star August Kesseler in Assmannshausan - was for our official appointment, where Georg rolled out the red carpet for me.

Picture: Stefan and Georg Rumpf Tasting with an American Client

I also brought a Kruger-Rumpf Riesling to the “Bring-Your-Own-Bottle” opening night of the 2011 European Wine Bloggers Conference (along with a Riesling from the Finger Lakes, USA), where I wanted to pour two of my favorite Rieslings from the two countries where I live.

Pictures: At the European Wine Bloggers Conference 2011 in Brescia, Italy

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf

“In our family, viniculture has been tradition since 1708 - a tradition that we have been cultivating in our vineyards as well as in our manor house which was built back in 1830” said Georg. The estate is located in Münster-Sarmsheim in the Nahe region in Germany.

Pictures: Weingut Kruger-Rumpf

Stefan Rumpf, Georg’s father, brought Weingut Kruger-Rumpf up to where it is today: After completing his studies in agricultural sciences, including stints in Californian wineries, and conducting research at the Geisenheim research institute, Stefan Rumpf took over the estate from his parents in 1984. Up until then, the wines were sold almost entirely in bulk. Stefan Rumpf changed this and started to bottle his wines and to market the bottles himself. Less than 10 years later, in 1992, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf was invited to join the VDP, the about 200 German elite winemakers, a clear sign of what Stefan Rumpf had achieved over the course of just 8 years.

Today, the vineyard area totals 22 hectares and the annual production is 14.000 cases. Georg Rumpf has taken over the winemaking aspect of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, while his father is now more focusing on sales and general management.

The top sites are: Münsterer Dautenpflänzer (slate with sandy loam); Münsterer Pittersberg (slate); Münsterer Rheinberg (weathered quartzite and sandy loam); Binger Scharlachberg Rheinhessen (Rotliegend and porphyry).

Grape varieties: 65% Riesling, 10% each of Silvaner and Weissburgunder, 5% each of Chardonnay, Grauburgunder and Spätburgunder. In fact, Kruger-Rumpf was the first estate in the Nahe region to plant Chardonnay.

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf has 3 (of) 5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. It took 1st place in the DER FEINSCHMECKER Deutscher Riesling Cup 2008.

In the US, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf is imported by Terry Theise.

In the Vineyard with Georg

When my wife and I arrived at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, the first thing Georg did, was to invite us for a tour of his vineyards. “Our vineyards are steep. They are located in a narrow side valley of the Nahe and in Rheinhessen, safe from wind and rain. In a small area, the steep slopes of our vineyards offer a wide range of different soil types. Deeply rooting vines get their minerals from the lower soil layers and bin them within their grapes” Georg explained in the car.

Pictures: With Georg in the Vineyards

At some point of the tour, where the Nahe river flows into the Rhine river, we had an extraordinary view of the Rhine valley with the vineyards of Ruedesheim on the other side of the Rhine river (including the vineyards of J. Leitz), the vineyards of the Mittelrhein area in some distance, the Rheinhessen region beginning on the other side of the Nahe river and we in a Kurger-Rumpf vineyard in the Nahe region. It was a gorgeous day. I will never forget this magic moment with Georg Rumpf.

Pictures: A Magic Moment with Georg in the Vineyards

We visited all the vineyards of Kurger-Rumpf, or at least saw them from a distance, like the Binger Scharlachberg on the other side of the Nahe river:

Münsterer Pittersberg - Großes Gewächs, 5.5 ha, largest site of the winery, Soil: Devon-slate, wine: Riesling with citric like aroma and well balanced acidity.

Münsterer Dautenpflänzer - Großes Gewächs, 1.7 ha, heart of Kapellenberg, highest-class site of the winery, Soil: quartzite alteration with loess clay, Grape variety: Riesling, Scheurebe, Wine: fruity, consistent wine.

Münsterer Rheinberg - 1.9 ha, Soil: predominantly quartzite and slate, Grape variety: Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Wine: diverse wines.

Münsterer Kapellenberg - 4 ha, all around Dautenpflänzer site; most diverse site of the winery, Soil: quartzite alteration with loess clay, Grape variety: Riesling, Pinot Blanc.

Dorsheimer Burgberg - 0.8 ha, particularly good microclimate through site in form of an amphitheatre, Soil: clay soil with slate and quartzite, Grape variety: Riesling, Wine: delicately balanced Riesling wine with discreet fruit aroma.

Binger Scharlachberg (Rheinhessen) - 1 ha, only site located in Rheinhessen; the name of the site arose from a high ferrous oxide part within the stone which colors the soil red, Soil: quartzite alteration with slate, Grape variety: Riesling, Wine: fruity, very complex wine.

Pictures: With Georg in the Vineyards

“White wine is our specialty as Riesling grows on 70 % of our steep slopes by the Nahe. We are especially proud of our 50 year old Riesling vines at our sites Münsterer Pittersberg and Münsterer Dautenpflänzer. Silvaner and Pinot Blanc take up 10% of our vineyards each. The different Pinot varieties (Pinot Gris, Pinot Madeleine and Pinot Noir) as well as Chardonnay, Scheurebe, and Gewürztraminer complete our assortment” said Georg.

Pictures: With Georg in the Vineyards

In terms of farming, the guiding principle is sustainable vineyard practices. “You can’t improve wine in the cellar, only make it worse,” Georg’s father Stefan said later. “At least ninety percent of the quality of a wine comes from the raw material you harvest.” And “Our grapes ripen in sunny, steep hillsides safe from wind within the Nahetal and Rheinhessen region. What we care about is a strong crop reduction in the vineyard as well as a gentle treatment of the grapes. In order to guarantee best quality, we harvest our grapes by thorough hand picking. Afterwards, we grant our wine sufficient time and rest in the cellar.”

In the Wine Cellar with Georg

After the vineyard tour, Georg showed us around in the winery, which has some very traditional parts, like the ancient wine cellar and then stunning modern parts, like the tasting room.

Picture: Kruger-Rumpf Winecellar

Later during the tasting, Georg explained to me that he and his father are searching for the perfect balance

- perfect balance with mother nature through gentle and natural farming in the vineyard;

- perfect balance with the development of the grapes by manually harvesting only fully ripe grapes during several passages through the vineyard;

- perfect balance in the wine cellar by as little intervention as possible in the fermentation and aging process of the wine.

Dinner at the Country Restaurant

One of the (many) assets of Weingut Kruger Rumpf is the lovely country restaurant, which is part of the winery. It is run by Georg’s mother Cornelia. It opened its doors in 1994. They call it a wine tavern, but for me it is a country restaurant. Whatever you call it, it is a lovely place, where you can have a great time with traditional, upscale cuisine and Kruger-Rumpf wines in the cozy atmosphere of a family-run country restaurant .

Pictures: The Krueger-Rumpf Weinstube and Stefan and Cornelia Rumpf

The rooms are decorated with appropriate accessories depending on the season. Painted stucco ceilings, historic tiled stoves, wooden floors, warm wall paint as well as furniture in country-house style provide for a comfortable living room atmosphere. The bright rooms are located on the ground floor of the manor house.

In addition, there is an idyllic garden. Especially during the summer, the garden restaurant of the winery provides you with the opportunity to enjoy the evening in a cozy al fresco atmosphere with a hearty meal and a good glass of wine. In fact, we did the tasting with Georg in the garden restaurant.

Pictures: Modern Art in a Traditional Weinstube

For special events, there also is a Gewölberaum for 90 people and a Tafelraum for 20 people. Finally, the courtyard provides space for up to 200 people.

Pictures: The Delicious Food in the Weinstube

Cornelia Rumpf said: “Among the most favorite classics of our guests are our braised hog jowls with green beans and roast potatoes as well as our Winzerschmaus with green salad, which is cheese and bacon in a potato-bread dough. Depending on the season, we replenish our menu with typical seasonal dishes.”

What Georg Poured

The Kruger-Rumpf Portfolio comprises about 40 different wines. About 20 of them are Rieslings, ranging from a simple “Literwein” to (dry) Grosses Gewaechs wines and (noble-sweet) icewines. Then, there are less than 10 other white grape varities, with the focus on Burgundy grapes. The remainder is comprised of red wines (Pinot Noir) and bubblies.

Pictures; Christian G.E. Schiller and Georg Rumpf in the Garden Restaurant

Weingut Krueger-Rumpf sells 70% of its production in Germany and exports the remaining 30%. Accordingly, “80% of the wines we produce are dry wines” said Georg “ and 20% are fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines.”

Terry Theise’s Kruger-Rumpf portfolio comprises 9 wines. His selection reflects very well the American market: there is no red wine and only one of the 9 wines is a dry wine, all others are fruity- sweet and noble sweet.

Here are the wines, I tasted with my (CS) and Terry Theise’s (TT) comments (which I put for the wines that are imported into the US by Terry Theise). For the complete Terry Theise selection and what else he wrote about Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, see here.

2010 Kruger-Rumpf, Weisser Burgunder, trocken

CS: fresh, clean and crisp, mostly fermented and aged in stainless steel.

2010 Kruger-Rumpf, Weisser Burgunder “S”, trocken

CS: “S” means selection. It shows white fruit on the nose with floral, with pear notes and a hint of vanilla, rich on the palate, with more spices and a bright finish. Fermented and aged in large oak barrels. Kruger-Rumpf also makes Pinot Gris, a Chardonnay and white Pinot Noir, which I did not taste.

2010 Kruger-Rumpf Riesling SCHIEFER, trocken

CS: Smooth and rounded on the palate with layered fruit, minerality and good acidity.



2010 Kruger-Rumpf Riesling QUARZIT, trocken

CS: I lovely wine for every day consumption. I bought a case of it and took it with me to the “Bring-Your-Own-Bottle” opening party of the European Wine Bloggers Conference 2011 in Brescia, Italy. In the “Terroirweine” compartment, Georg makes a dry SCHIEFER and a dry as well as a sweet-style (feinherb) QUARZIT (see below)

2010 Muensterer Riesling, trocken

CS: With bright aromas of peach, pear, chalk and slate minerality, quite lush on the palate, fruity, minerally and clean, a hint of natural spice with lovely acidity and lingering finish.

2010 Binger Riesling, trocken

CS: Crisp green apple aromas with undertones of herbs, refreshing on the palate, good acidity.

2010 Muensterer Kapellenberg, Riesling trocken

CS: Upfront, ripe stonefruit and pear aromas.

2009 Dautenpflaenzer Riesling Grosses Gewaechs

CS: Dautenpflaenzer (and Pittersberg) are the top grand cru vineyards of Kruger-Rumpf; quartzite alteration with loess clay.

TT: They feel this is the best GG they have made. I’m tempted to agree. The overall effect is stern, but the heavy tread lands a deep blow of terroir, smoke, lemon and violet, with a stony-earthy foresty length. The wine isn’t easy, but lovers of a certain craggy austerity will find a rare pleasure.

2010 Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling SCHIEFER, feinherb

TT: From the GG Pittersberg. If you want to know why he cannot use its name on the label, write to VDP, La-La-land, “Twisted In Knots” cul-de-sac. They’ll explain. This wine is effectively dry, that’s to say that any normal sentient taster would find it acceptably dry if dry were what he insisted upon. There’s a classic slatey fragrance with notes of quince and balsam; a tangy palate with a pleasing gingery sourness and smoky length.

2010 Muensterer Rheinberg, Riesling Kabinett

CS: Rheinberg is the steepest of the three “Erste Lage” vineyards, on weathered quartzite and dusty loam – “similar to Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck” according to Georg.

TT: Ah, 97˚ Oechsle. I mean, good grief. Since it is a Spätlese, and a “star” Spät at that, it needs more RS than in lighter vintages. There’s some tonka-bean sponti aromas; a large-scaled tangy appley palate, granular and fibrous. You get a 1-2 class upgrade to a lovely (and not all that sweet) Spät.



2010 Muensterer Dautenpflaenzer, Riesling Spaetlese

TT: I sometimes wonder whether any Scheu sneaks into this wine; it’s so exotic, and they have Scheu in the site…and this ’10 is salty and lovely and oh-so-slightly grassy, and again it’s green, Chartreuse and verbena, a whipsaw of steel, mint, quince and smoke; determined yet also gracious.

2010 Binger Scharlachberg, Riesling Spaetlese

CS: Scharlachberg is located in Rheinhessen, across the Nahe river, soil: quartzite alteration with slate.

TT: Only 400 liters (about 42 cases) were made. Nearly 100˚, a sponti, whole-cluster pressed; a rapturously flowery aroma, with another hint of grass; on the palate a surprising whomp of stern power on the back; the fruit is green again but there’s an orchid-y kelpy kick of yuzu below the giddy floral high notes. Not an easy wine, but it’s one of those your mouth isn’t quite big enough for.

2010 Kruger-Rumpf, Scheurebe Spätlese

TT: The cat has to peek out from amidst the thickets this year, but the wine is like a paperweight in its concentration of substance and weight; really piney and limey and Riesling-like – but this will change, and its inner Beelzebub will emerge.

2009 Muensterer Pittersberg, Riesling Auslese

TT: At this point this was only the second Auslese (other than Catoir) I let myself select. I told myself I had to be overwhelmed. And wow, this is sensational, a momument of Nahe-Riesling; 56-year-old vines, 122° Oechsle with 25% botrytis, and the reputation of ’09 will rest on wines like this, a swollen mass of apples and crushed rocks and walnut- extract; infinitely rich but not blatantly sweet; salty, like a tarte flambée with slices of apple.

2009 Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Eiswein “Goldkapsel”

TT: First offering. These are both astonishing wines, and you owe it to yourself to see what the real thing is actually like. All due respect to the Canadians, but it’s too easy, and it shows in the wines. The “lighter” of these – at 180˚ - is a fascinating elixir, salty and malty and wintergreeny, an essence of Pittersberg that will age elegantly; these are not sugar-heavy acid-freaky Eisweins. The Goldkap is of course riper and richer yet amazingly still transparent, albeit massively plummy yet still brilliant; has a fat and salt sweetness like a cidery miso brine you use for pork-belly.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

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The 100 Best German Winemakers 2010 – Handelsblatt online and Vinum

Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

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Wrap-Up: 4 Extraordinary Riesling Tastings at the 1. International Riesling Symposium at Schloss Rheinhartshausen in the Rheingau in Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

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Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

Picture: Dennis Cakebread and Christian G.E.Schiller

Picture: Gary Gondelman, Chef Driss Zahidi and Christian G.E.Schiller

My down-the-road bistro when I am in McLean, Virginia - EVO Bistro - was the site of a fun vintner dinner hosted by Dennis Cakebread. Chef Driss Zahidi of EVO offered a delectable menu paired with the fabulous Cakebread Cellars wines. Gary Gondelman from Kobrand Corporation led skillfully through a very enjoyable evening. Kobrand Corporation is a marketer of fine wines and spirits, such as Cakebread Cellars; in addition, the firm owns many of the brands in its portfolio.

Cakebread Cellars is a small producer of top wines in the Napa valley, where America’s finest wines come from.

American Wine

The US is the fourth largest wine producing country in the world following France, Italy, and Spain. The US has produced wine for over 300 years. It is the home of several native species of grape, but it was the introduction of the European Vitis vinifera that led to the growth of the American wine industry. Today, all 50 States make wine, although not all States grow their own fruit.

California

California accounts for nearly 90 percent of the American wine production. Here are the main wine regions:

Picture: The Wine Regions of California

The first wineries were established by missioneries in the South of California. The Gold Rush in the mid-19th century brought waves of new settlers to California. The wine industry moved to the northern parts of California and took hold in the Sonoma and Napa regions. The late 19th century saw the advent of the phylloxera epidemic which had already ravaged European vineyards. Fortunately the remedy of grafting resistant American rootstock was well known and the Californian wine industry was able to survive. At the turn of the 20th century, nearly 800 wineries existed in California and worldwide recognition seemed imminent, when Prohibition hit the industry in 1920. By the time that Prohibition was repealed in 1933 under President Franklin Roosevelt, only 140 wineries were still operating in California.

Californian re-entered the international stage at the 1976 Judgment of Paris wine competition, when Californian wines beat out French wines in both red and white wine categories. Today, there are more than 1,200 wineries in the State, ranging from small boutique wineries to large corporations. In general, by German or French standards, American wineries are large.

Napa Valley

Napa Valley is widely considered to be the top wine region in America and one of the best in the world. By the end of the 19th century there were already more than 140 wineries in the area. Of those original wineries several still exist today including Charles Krug Winery, Chateau Montelena and Beringer. In 1965, Napa Valley icon Robert Mondavi broke away from his family's Charles Krug Estate to found his own. This was the first new large scale winery to be established in the valley since Prohibition. In addition to large scale wineries, Napa Valley's boutique wineries produce some of the world's best wines. Today Napa Valley features more than 300 wineries.

Cakebread Cellars is one of the smaller, fine wineries in Napa valley, founded by Jack Cakebread, just a few miles north of Robert Mondavi. At age 43, Jack Cakebread embarked on a new career, winemaking, when he bought the Rutherford ranch from family friends. His first pursuits were on his family's orchard ranch and as partner with his father in Cakebread's Garage. While in the Air Force in North Africa, he developed an interest in photography. He undertook photographic studies under the master of landscape, Ansel Adams, and established Cakebread Photography. A 14-year photographic career followed, pursued simultaneously with the family auto repair business.

Picture: Gary Gondelman and Dennis Cakebread

To Cakebread Cellar's original 22 acres, an additional 12, adjacent to the original property, were added in 1982. In 1985, 11 more acres in the Rutherford area were acquired. In 1987, the purchase of the 25-acre River Ranch brought total acreage to 75, all of which in the Rutherford appellation. In 1999, an acquisition added substantial vineyard acreage on Howell Mountain. In addition, Cakebread draws on 400 acres of vineyards over which the Cakebreads exercise full control.

Dennis Cakebread

Dennis Cakebread is a UC Berkeley graduate. He started his working career doing audits at banks. He ended his banking career as an EVP/CFO before starting work at his family winery in 1987. He is now a co-owner and SVP Sales and Marketing.

EVO Bistro

EVO Bistro is both my down-the-road Wine Bar in McLean, Virginia, and my favorite Restaurant and Bistro in the Washington DC area. It combines an unpretentious French-Mediterranean atmosphere with top wines from around the world, both the old and the new world, and delicious French, Moroccan and Spanish tapas, prepared by Chef Driss Zahidi, who I know from the days of the tiny Corner Bistro on Old Dominion.

Picture: Chef Driss Zahidi and Christian G.E.Schiller

Picture: Zakaria Echchami

One thing I like in particular is the automated wine tasting station, in the picture behind Driss Zahidi and me, where you can serve yourself from a range of about 40 wines. You pick a glass, select a wine, place your glass under the spout corresponding with the wine you want to enjoy, press a button, and out comes a perfectly-metered one, three or five ounce pour. EVO's eno-system always includes a couple of top wines that cost several hundreds of dollars a bottle; at one or three ounces, they become affordable.

What Dennis Cakebread and Chef Driss Zahidi Served

Passed hors d'oeuvre

Mini crab cakes with lemon aioli
Ahi Tuna in mini fillo cups
Scallops, sesame seeds & passion fruit

2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley

Technical notes: Grape variety: 100% Chardonnay; Alcoholic Content: 14.5%; Vineyards: 100% Napa Valley; Total Acidity: 0.63g/100ml; pH: 3.65; Harvest Dates: September 4 - October 1, 2008; Fermentation: 92% French Oak & 8% stainless steel; no Malolactic; Barrel-aging: 8 months in French oak, 36% new, with periodic stirring of the lees.

Winemaking notes: After night-harvesting and whole-cluster-pressing the grapes, 92% of the juice was fermented in French oak barrels and 8% in stainless steel tanks. Because the 2008 vintage produced fruit with tremendous varietal intensity and exceptionally well-balanced flavors, the only winemaking intervention required was to select the right barrels to highlight the wine’s lovely natural attributes. The Chardonnay spent eight months aging in French oaks barrels, 36% new, with periodic stirring of the yeast lees to further enrich texture and flavor.

Tasting notes: medium gold in the glass, butter, green apple and spices on the nose, a medium- to full-bodied wined, moderate acidity, creamy, not too oaky, ripe apple and pear flavors on the palate, long, crisp, finish, an elegant California Chardonnay.

First Course

Blue Point Oyster trio; Raw with pomegranate sorbet,
fried with Crabmeat & blood orange aioli,
Baked with Orgonzola blue cheese

2008 Sauvignon Blanc

Technical notes: Grape variety: 90% Sauvignon Blanc 6% Semillon 4% Sauvignon Musque; Alcoholic Content: 14.4%; Total Acidity: 0.62g/100ml; pH: 3.43; Harvest Dates: 8/12/2008 through 9/15/2008; Fermentation: 82% Stainless Steel, 18% French Oak; Barrel-aging: 85% Aged 5 months in French Oak.

Winemaking: The Sauvignon Blanc grapes were night-harvested at cool temperatures to preserve their fresh, vibrant flavors and achieve an ideal balance of sugar and acidity. After the grapes arrived at the winery, the whole clusters were immediately pressed to maximize varietal character while minimizing the extraction of astringent compounds from the skins. In 2008, 67% of the juice was tank-fermented and aged in neutral French oak barrels; 18% was fermented and aged in barrel; and 15% was tank-fermented with no oak aging.

Tasting notes: medium gold in the glass, attack of ripe pomelo, pineapple, melon and apple on the nose, a medium- to full-bodied wine, good structure, grapefruit and kiwi on the palate, long finish. A dry, crisp and fruity wine that paired very well with the wonderful trio of Oysters prepared by Chef Driss Zahidi. More on Oysters and Wine here.

Second Course

100% all natural quail breast wrapped in apple wood smoked bacon,
fresh foie gras, vanilla sea salt and black berry sauce

2007 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley

Technical notes: Grape Variety: 100% Pinot Noir; Alcohol Content: 14.9%; Appellations: 100% Estate Anderson Valley; Total Acidity: 0.55g/100ml; Harvest dates: September 18-27, 2007; pH: 3.68; Barrel Aging: 15 months in French oak, 45% new.

Winemaking: Each of the six Anderson Valley Pinot Noir clones were fermented separately to optimize their distinctive personalities, using a proportion of native yeasts from the vineyard (22% in 2007) to foster additional complexity. Prior to fermentation, each lot received a three-day cold soak to gently extract color and tannin while accentuating Pinot Noir’s fruit-forward personality. In true Burgundian fashion, the juice fermented in open-top tanks with gentle, manual punch-downs of the cap. Once fermentation was completed, the wines macerated on the skins for another two weeks, with daily assessments of color and tannin development. After draining the wines from the skins, they were transferred to French oak barrels, 40% new. The component wines were blended in the spring, 2008 and the blend was barrel-aged for another seven months.

Tasting notes: light ruby in the glass, a shower of lovely floral notes on the nose combined with notes of black cherry, earth and chocolate, a full-bodied wine, good acidity with seamlessly integrated tannins and dark berry, plum and currant fruit on the palate, long, chocolate-y finish, a feminine wine.

Third Course

Wagyu beef with Morel mushrooms, grilled pineapple,
Moroccan couscous and truffle sauce

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

Technical notes: Grape Variety: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon 16% Merlot 4% Cabernet Franc 2% Malbec; Vineyards: Napa Valley; Alcohol content: 14.2%; Harvest dates: October 3 through 27, 2006; Total acidity: 0.65g/100ml; Fermentation: Stainless Steel; pH: 3.71; Barrel aging: 20 months in French oak, 35% new.

Winemaking: After crushing and cold-soaking the grapes for 24-36 hours to enhance extraction, the juice from each vineyard lot was fermented separately in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, at warm temperatures, to fully extract color and flavor. Typically, fermentation completes in seven days, with the new wines left to macerate on the skins up to three additional weeks to maximize color and flavor extraction. Cool years like 2006, however, can result in Cabernet Sauvignons with elevated tannins; so evolving tannin levels were closely monitored during fermentation, using both quantitative and sensory analysis to determine the optimum maceration time for each lot. In 2006, each component of our Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon aged six months in French oak barrels, 35% new, with the lots chosen for the final blend aged another 14 months in barrel before bottling in July, 2008.

Tasting notes: clear purple red in the glass, attack of cassis, blackberry and boysenberry coupled with cedar, black tea and sweet oak scents on the nose, a big, concentrated wine, good structure, black fruit and lots of black pepper with hints of black tea on the palate, long, savory finish.

Fourth Course

Poached pear in red wine with raspberry sorbet and chocolate sauce

2006 Zinfandel, Red HIll, Lake County

Technical notes: Grape Variety: 100% Zinfandel; Alcohol Content: 14.7%; Vineyards: Red Hills - Lake County; Total Acidity: 0.61g/100ml Harvest dates: September 1- 7, 2006; pH: 3.84; Fermentation: stainless steel tanks; Barrel Aging: 15 months new & seasoned French oak barrels.

Winemaking: Each of our three Zinfandel clones at Snow’s Lake was harvested and fermented separately. After a short, warm fermentation in stainless steel tanks to fully extract color, flavor and tannins, the wines remained on the skins for another two weeks to further enhance color and flavor extraction while softening tannins. After pressing the wines off the skins, the lots were transferred to French oak barrels, 37% new, where they aged before the final blend was assembled in May, 2007. The wine then aged another eight months in barrel before bottling in January, 2008.

Tasting notes: dark red in the glass with never ending legs, a lavish nose of black plum and blackberry fruit with licorice and vanilla notes, a full-bodied intense wine, smooth tannins, chocolate and black pepper notes on the palate, hot finish.

EVO Bistro, McLean, Virginia
http://www.evobistro.com/

Cakebread Cellars, Napa Valley
http://www.cakebread.com/

Kobrand Corporation, New York
www.kobrandwine.com



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The Wines of Sequoia Grove in Napa Valley, US

Picture: Michael K. Trujillo and Christian G.E.Schiller

Michael K. Trujillo, President and Director of Winemaking of Sequoia Grove from Napa Valley came to the East Coast and I had the opportunity to taste his wines at Evo Bistro in McLean.

American Wine

America has produced wine for over 300 years. The US is the fourth largest wine producing country in the world following France, Italy, and Spain. The US is the home of several native species of grape, such as the Vitis labrusca, but it was the introduction of the European Vitis vinifera that led to the growth of the American wine industry. Today, all 50 States make wine, although not all States grow their own fruit, with California, Washington State, Oregon, New York State and Virginia being the top wine producers.

California

Nearly three-quarters the size of France, California accounts for nearly 90 percent of the American wine production. If California were a separate country, it would be the world's fourth-largest wine producer.

The first wineries were established by the Franciscan missioneries in the South of California. The missionaries used the Mission grape from Latin America, which was a grape of very modest quality.

The Gold Rush in the mid-19th century brought waves of new settlers to California, increasing the demand for wine. The wine industry moved to the northern parts of California and took hold in the Sonoma and Napa regions. The late 19th century saw the advent of the phylloxera epidemic which had already ravaged European vineyards. Fortunately the remedy of grafting resistant American rootstock was well known and the Californian wine industry was able to survive. At the turn of the 20th century, nearly 800 wineries existed in California and worldwide recognition seemed imminent, when Prohibition hit the industry in 1920. By the time that Prohibition was repealed in 1933 under President Franklin Roosevelt, only 140 wineries were still operating in California.

Then came the post World War II wine boom.Wine became again a symbol of culture and status. By 1972, wine consumption was about 8 liters per person, which was three times the figure before Prohibition. Californian re-entered the international stage at the 1976 Judgment of Paris wine competition when Californian wines beat out French wines in both red and white wine categories. Today there are more than 1,200 wineries in the State, ranging from small boutique wineries to large corporations. In general, by German or French standards, American wineries are large.

Napa Valley

Napa Valley is widely considered to be the top wine region in America and one of the best in the world. By the end of the 19th century there were already more than 140 wineries in the area. Of those original wineries several still exist in the valley today including Charles Krug Winery, Chateau Montelena and Beringer. In 1965, Napa Valley icon Robert Mondavi broke away from his family's Charles Krug Estate to found his own. This was the first new large scale winery to be established in the valley since Prohibition. In addition to large scale wineries, Napa Valley's boutique wineries produce some of the world's best wines. Today Napa Valley features more than 300 wineries.

Sequoia Grove

Sequoia Grove is situated in one of the most highly valued parts of the Napa Valley. The winery’s famous neighbors include Opus One and Beaulieu Vineyard. Contemporary winemaking on this historic piece of land dates to 1980, when the winery was bonded. In 1978, Jim Allen bought the property and began planting Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, and Chardonnay; he released his first wine in 1981.

Allen has retired and the winery is now fully in the hands of Michael Trujillo, who had worked at his side practically since the beginning. Michael Trujillo now answers to the Kopf family of New York and Connecticut, who also own part of Domaine Carneros, the St. Francis Winery (Sonoma County), and Louis Jadot in Burgundy.

Sequoia Grove produces around 35,000 cases of wine per year, with about 25,000 of those being Cabernet Sauvignon. Depending on the variety, fermentation is carried out in oak, stainless steel, or a combination of both. Total oak cooperage of 60,000 gallons is comprised of small and large French and some American oak (which is used only to age Cabernet Sauvignon). All wines are bottle-aged at least one year, with the estate reserve bottling held longer prior to release.

Michael K. Trujillo

Michael K. Trujillo first started his career in agriculture in the ranch country and farmland of Southern Colorado, where he grew up. In 1982 he took an entry level job with the winery he is now president of and rose steadily though the ranks until reaching the position as winemaker and then, beginning with the 2002 vintage, president as well.

What Michael Poured

Sequoia Crove, 2007, Chardonnay, Carneros, $27

The grapes come from the Carneros District in Napa Valley. Mike explained that they buy fruit from the Beckstoffer vineyards, the Haire vineyards and Ghisletta Vineyard. Grapes were harvested between September 14 and 26 with an average Brix of 24.5; Acidity: 6.7 g/L Alcohol: 14.2%%

Tasting notes: pale, straw-colored appearance in the glass, the nose is delicate and steely, with notes of wet stone, honeysuckle, apricot, and almond, a full bodied wine, ripe pear flavors come through on the palate, which is light and fresh with a hint of marzipan and minerality that dominates the lingering finish, this Burgundian-style Chardonnay is an excellent example of a good balance of French restraint with California sunshine.

Sequoia Crove, 2006, Cabernet Sauvignon, $32

Vineyard notes: 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 % Merlot. Grapes come from vineyards managed by our well-regarded growers in the Napa Valley from the northern St. Helena appellation all the way southeast to the Atlas Peak hills. Some are also from our own estate vineyards in Rutherford. - Brix at harvest: between 23 and 26.8 - Harvest date: September 25- November 1, 2005

Winemakers notes: Winemaking practices: - Hand-sorted fruit - 1-2 day cold soak - Inoculated with an assortment of French yeast strains - Small batch fermentations - Pumpovers 2-3 times per day - Malolactic fermentation in barrels - Racked four times before bottling

Tasting notes: Deep red in color in the glass, attack of blackberry notes with underlying layers of cedar and black pepper on the nose, a full-bodied and well-balanced wine with rich flavors and fine-grained tannins, good acid and tannin structures

Evo Bistro

Evo Bistro is both my down-the-road Wine Bar in Mclean, Virginia, and my favorite Restaurant and Bistro in the Washington DC area. It combines an unpretentious French-Mediterranean atmosphere with top wines from around the world, both the old and the new world, and French, Moroccan and Spanish tapas.

Picture: Evo Bistro's Michelle behind the bar

Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley, California
http://www.sequoiagrove.com/sequoiagrove/index.jsp

Evo Bistro, McLean, Virginia
http://www.evobistro.com/

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The Wines of Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley, US

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dan Duckhorn

The Wines of Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley, US

At Pearson's in Washington DC, I had the pleasure of participating in a Duckhorn Vineyards tasting with Owner and Founder Dan Duckhorn.

Duckhorn Vineyards

Duckhorn Vineyards is a 20.000 cases winery based in St. Helena, California. Margaret and Dan Duckhorn started Duckhorn Vineyards in 1976 with eight investors. Though they have often made outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon, they are best known for Merlot, a variety that they helped pioneer in Napa Valley. In 2007, GI Partners, a private equity firm, purchased a controlling interest in Duckhorn Wine Company at a valuation believed to exceed $250 million.

Today, along with its three production facilities, Duckhorn comprises seven vineyards comprising 168 acres in Napa and four vineyards totaling 153 acres in Anderson Valley. The Napa properties are located in five different appellations: the (proposed) Calistoga AVA, Howell Mountain, St. Helena, Yountville and Napa Valley. In addition to the Duckhorn, Paraduxx and Goldeneye brands, the company also has two second labels: Decoy, which uses fruit not included in Duckhorn; and Migration, made with grapes from the Anderson Valley properties. Prices for the brands range from about $30 for Decoy up to $95 for single-vineyard Duckhorn Cabernets. The company currently has 75 employees.

Dan Duckhorn

For over thirty years, Dan Duckhorn has been a leader in the Napa Valley wine community. A native of northern California, Dan earned his Masters in Business Administration in 1962 from the University of California at Berkeley. In 1976, Dan and his wife Margaret co-founded Duckhorn Vineyards with a small group of friends. Influenced by what he had learned on a journey to France, Dan decided that the Napa Valley was ideal for the cultivation of Bordeaux varietals. Going against the grain of what other local producers were doing, Dan decided against producing Chardonnay. Instead, he made the decision to focus his passion and resources on the production of a world-class Napa Valley Merlot. Though many other wineries were using Merlot as a blending grape, Dan pioneered the crafting of a premium stand-alone Napa Valley Merlot. Dubbed "Mr. Merlot" by Frank Prial of the New York Times, Dan is a highly respected leader in the wine industry.

The Wines we Tasted

DUCKHORN DECOY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009

Winery Notes: "Since 1982, Duckhorn Vineyards has been crafting a Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc that has become a benchmark for the varietal in North America. Expanding on this rich winemaking tradition, Decoy Sauvignon Blanc allows our winemaking team the opportunity to explore a different expression of Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Made using grapes from top independent growers, our Decoy Sauvignon Blanc is fermented exclusively in stainless steel to preserve its lively aromas and bright flavors. The result is an enticing wine that highlights vibrant citrus and lemongrass layers." $20

DUCKHORN DECOY PINOT NOIR 2008

Winery Notes: "Building on the traditions established by our acclaimed Goldeneye and Migration Pinot Noirs, Decoy Pinot Noir continues Duckhorn Wine Company's exploration of the depth and diversity of Anderson Valley winegrowing. Decoy Pinot Noir allows our winemaking team to highlight a distinctly plush and approachable expression of Pinot Noir that is crafted for more youthful enjoyment. The resulting wine offers bright red-fruit flavors of Bing cherry, raspberry and cranberry, alongside hints of toasty oak." $30

DUCKHORN DECOY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007

Winery Notes: "This appealing Napa Valley bottling highlights the complexity of the Cabernet Sauvignon varietal. Since 1978, Duckhorn Vineyards has been producing Cabernet Sauvignon that embodies the flavorful complexity of Napa Valley winegrowing and offers classic Cabernet elements of currant, cherry, plum and olive." $30

DUCKHORN DECOY ZINFANDEL 2008

Winery Notes: "Our Paraduxx winemaking team has been crafting a world-class red blend using Napa Valley Zinfandel since 1994. Decoy Zinfandel allows us to explore this robust and appealing grape as a stand-alone wine. It offers the concentration and complexity that has made the Napa Valley famous, while highlighting classic Zinfandel elements of raspberry, strawberry jam, white pepper, cedar and spice." $30

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006

Winery Notes: "A complex blend of grapes from the greater Napa Valley and seven of its acclaimed appellations, this wine also incorporates a significant amount of fruit from our Estate vineyards. The result is a wine that strikes an effortless balance between dark fruit, oak and tannins. Classic Cabernet elements of black currant, dark cherry, plum and raspberry are accentuated by more subtle layers of mint and black olive. Though a big, structured and age-worthy wine, the tannins are beginning to soften, framing both the fruit and the oak-inspired vanilla and cocoa notes." Wine Spectator 91 points. $70

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS HOWELL MOUNTAIN MERLOT 2004

Winery Notes: "In 1880 the St. Helena Star contended that Howell Mountain "would be to California what Medoc is to France." In 1983, Howell Mountain was approved as a viticulture appellation, confirming what the turn-of-the-century growers already knew about the uniqueness of the region. We believe that this wine will be the Medoc of our portfolio. This is a well-balanced wine with medium weight, beautiful texture, bright acid, and integrated, supple tannins. The aroma is elegant, with elements of earth, black cherry, vanilla and clove, accompanied by a slightly meaty character. On the palate, the wine is layered with rich fruit flavors, most notably blueberry, blackberry, and plum, and accented by subtle notes of lavender and sage." Wine Enthusiast 90 points $80

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS THREE PALMS VINEYARD MERLOT 2006

Winery Notes: "Three Palms Vineyard is legendary in the world of California Merlot and for good reason. A hot site with free-draining soils, Three Palms consistently delivers focused red fruit flavors balanced by an austere minerality, which contributes to elegant aging potential. The 2006 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot delivers all the vibrant fruit one would expect, with layers of red currant, raspberry and black cherry underscored by elements of piecrust, strawberry, caramel and wet stone. The tannins are dry and elegant, leading to a long, jammy finish." $90

GOLDENEYE GOWAN CREEK VINEYARD 2006

Winery Notes: "Gowan Creek is the home to our new winery and offers a perfect mid-valley winegrowing location that combines warmer Anderson Valley elements with coastal fog and cooling influences from the northern end of the valley. As a result, this wine is a classic expression of Pinot Noir, with signature aromatics, lush extraction and rich texture. The nose displays the wild blueberry and blackberry layers that have come to define Gowan Creek, supported by notes of loganberry, char, black pepper and dried meats. On the palate, the attack is immense, the tannins long and the acidity persistent, all combining to create a wine with sumptuous, dark- fruit-driven complexity." Wine Enthusiast 94 points $90

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley
http://www.duckhorn.com/DuckhornDNN/

Pearson’s, Washington DC
http://www.pearsonswine.com/




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