Following the 2011 European Wine Bloggers Conference in Brescia, I spent 3 days in a beautiful and exciting location: In the Chianti Classico region in Tuscany, at the invitation of the Chianti Classico Consortium. We visited several wineries and tasted perhaps as many as 70 different wines from Chianti Classico producers, both big and small.
While in Tuscany, I dined and wined (1) with the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium at the Santa Maria Al Prato Convent in Radda in Chianti, at (2) Badia a Coltibuono, at (3) Castello di Brolio, where Bettino Ricasoli came up with the original Chianti Classico blend, at (4) Castello di Ama, where we saw an amazing Contemporary Art Collection, at (5) Vignemaggio, where Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa was borne, at (6) Dario Cecchini’s Solo Cicca Restaurant in Panzano and (7) at Caparasa, with Chianti Classico niche wine producer Paolo Cianferoni.
This is the fourth in a series of postings. I have already posted:
Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont
Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy
Dining and Wining where the Royals Eat: Dario Cecchini’s Solo Cicca Restaurant in Panzano – the Butcher of Chianti Classico
Sienna, Florence and Chianti Classico
The Chianti Classico region covers an area of approximate 100 square miles between the city of Florence in the north and the city of Siena in the south.
Historically, the Chianti Classico zone is where the production of Chianti started. In 1716, Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued an edict legislating that the 3 villages of the Lega del Chianti, the village of Greve and a 2 mile hillside north of Greve as the only officially recognized producers of Chianti. This delineation existed until the 1930s when the Italian Government expanded the zone. Subsequent expansions throughout the twentieth century would bring the Chianti zone to cover almost all of Tuscany. The original zone of the edict of Cosimo III de' Medici would eventually be considered the heart of the Chianti Classico region.
The Chianti Classico zone is a truly unending source of culture, scenery, architecture, gastronomy and wines. Here lie the lines of defense of the two Republics, Siena and Florence, which have scowled at each other through its woods and vineyards for centuries. Interspersed with the countryside are castles: some are still occupied by the noble families whose ancestors built them in the feudal middle ages; others - ruined, perhaps in battle centuries ago, and abandoned - still dominate their hilltops with proud arrogance. There are numerous hill towns and hamlets, villas and farmhouses, guarded by sentinel cypresses, by people who may make their living tending the vineyards, or have already made more than a living and have retired to beautiful old houses. Be aware that the British, German, Dutch, Swiss, French and Hong Kong have bought up much of the Tuscan landscape. They too have become wine makers with a vengeance.
Sangiovese - the Soul of Chianti
Sangiovese is the signature grape of Chianti. It is the soul of Chianti wine. The Sangiovese grape, like the Pinot Noir, is not an easy grape variety, but has the potential of producing world class wines.
Since 2006, the use of white grape varieties such as Malvasia and Trebbiano has been prohibited in Chianti Classico. The share of Sangiovese can range from 80% to up to 100%, with the remainder either other native red grapes, like Canaiolo and Colorino, or international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Wines that do not comply with these rules – of which we tasted a number during the trip - cannot be sold as Chianti Classico, though produced in the same area.
The Caparsa Estate
With 12 hectares of vine, the Caparsa Estate is a small winery close to Radda in Chianti. Of the potentially about 60.000 bottles of wine, it markets only 20.000 bottles and sells the rest in bulk. Chianti Classico niche wine producer Paolo Cianferoni explained: "We only bottle a third of our production making only a Riserva. 2/3 of our production is sold to large companies, so we have 20,000 bottles to sell. These are sold either locally or exported to small importers. If I had to sell all my grapes as bottled wine, I would have to change the whole structure." As in many vineyards of the area, olive oil is also proudly produced.
Paolo Cianferoni and his partner Gianna have been running Caparsa since 1982. A hands-on man, Paolo's hands are everywhere at once, planting, picking, labeling, bottling, pricing, selling. Gianna works along side Paolo, indulgent of her husband's restlessness. Together they live their lives in harmony with the environment, Italian peasant culture, the world of wine and their 5 children.
History
The Cianferoni family bought the estate in 1965. Initially it was run by Paolo's father – Reginaldo Cianferoni – a professor of economics and politics at the University of Florence. The estate for many centuries was the property of one of the greater noble families of Radda in Chianti who entrusted the estate to the share-cropping contract (division of the products half and half between the land-owner and the peasant families who worked the estates.
The Wine Portfolio
Drawing on vines growing at an altitude of 450 meters, the Caparsa Estate produces several different wines.
Chianti Classico Doccio a Matteo Riserva – one of the two flagship wines; always made as Riserva; matured in barriques; bottled 27 months after harvesting; 100% Sangiovese; he currently sells: 1999, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007.
Chianti Classico Carpasino – the second flagship wine, mainly Sangiovese, but also Canaiolo and other grapes; depending on the year made as Riserva; matured in casks and barrels; he currently sells 1998, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007.
The two flagship wines are not filtered and the estate’s production philosophy emphasizes special respect for the environment. Paolo: "We have been certified since 2005. My father used chemicals. I moved towards organic viticulture in stages. Organic viticulture encourages complexity, while the use of herbicides etc. simplifies wines. The problem with biodynamics is that it has a priest!"
Vino Rosso di Caparsa - a tavolo (table) wine made from Sangiovese,Canaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvasia. It is light on the mouth and the pocket. Sold in 5 liter bottles for Euro 13 per bottle.
Vino Bianco di Caparsa - a white wine mix of 50% Trebbiano and 50% Melvasia using only the first pressed juice (no skin). Sold in 5 liter bottles for Euro 13 per bottle.
Vin Santo – Paolo made a vin santo in 1997 and still has it in his portfolio.
Vendemmia Tardiva – Paolo made late harvest wine in 2003; the grapes were affected by noble rott.
Paolo does not produce Super Tuscan wines.
Paolo Poured 2 Wines
Paolo poured two vintages of Chianti Classico Doccio a Matteo Riserva us, the 2007 and the 2000. Both are delicious; inaddition, the 2000 showed how well Chianti Classico wine can age.
Chianti Classico Doccio a Matteo Riserva 2000
98% Sangiovese + 2% Colorino; Maturazione: 16 mesi in fusti da 225 e 550 litri di rovere Allier. Fermentazione: Spontanea, con lieviti autoctoni, per circa 14 giorni.
Bright garnet color; classic cherry nose with hints of leather and spices, soft textured mouthfeel, fruity finish, very attractive and elegant.
Chianti Classico Doccio a Matteo Riserva 2007
90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino, 5% Ancelotta; Maturazione: 2 anni in Tonneau di 500 litri di Troncais, Allier, Vosges, Americano, Ungherese. Fermentazione: Spontanea, con lieviti autoctoni, per circa 12 giorni.
Purple color, vibrant fruit, more structured with firmer tannins than the 2000.
schiller-wine: Related Postings
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Italy's Top Wines - 2011 Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia Wine Guide
Meeting Winemaker and Owner Massimo “Max” di Lenardo from Friuli, Italy and Tasting His di Lenardo Vineyards Wines
In the Glass: 3 Easy Drinking Wines from the Soave Region in Italy
The Wines of casa 236 in Italy – Peter Schiller
In the Glass: 2010 Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia IGT, Attems, Italy
Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA
The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna
Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont
Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy
Christian G.E. Schiller’s Views on Soave – a Video Interview
Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy
Dining and Wining where the Royals Eat: Dario Cecchini’s Solo Cicca Restaurant in Panzano – the Butcher of Chianti Classico
Un report perfetto! Grazie, Christian!
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