Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Wine Maker Arndt Koebelin at K+M Gutsweine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Arndt Koebelin and Bernd Klingenbrunn

Wine Maker Arndt Koebelin came to Frankfurt am Main, Germany, to present his wines at K+M Gutsweine.

K+M Gutsweine

Frankfurt am Main in Germany has a number of very good wine stores. Among them are the 2 K+M Gutsweine wine stores, both owned by Bernd Klingenbrunn and Armin Mauer, at Hamburger Allee 37 and Gluckstrasse 20. Stuart Pigott: “"Bernd Klingenbrunn und Armin Maurer sind ehrgeizige Weinhändler, die ihrem eigenen Geschmack und ihrer Vorstellung von gutem Wein trauen und ein eigenständiges D-, A- und F-Sortiment aufgebaut haben. Meine wichtigste Weinhändler-Entdeckung des letzten Jahres in Deutschland!" (Stuart Pigott, kleiner genialer Weinführer 2009).  Bernd and Armin have a very personal selection of wines from only winemakers they have a personal relation with. One of them is Eva Vollmer, last year’s Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland Discovery of the Year, Weingut Eva Vollmer. Another one is Arndt Koebelin, Weingut Koebelin, who they discovered in 2006. Arndt Koebelin visits K+M Gutsweine in Frankfurt on a regular basis to present his new wines. I was lucky to participate in his last presentation.

Pictures: Bernd Klingenbrunn and Armin Mauer during the Weingut Arndt Koebelin Tasting.

Baden

Baden is Germany’s most southerly and - with 16,000 hectares (39,300 acres) under vine – third largest wine region. Despite its size and the quality of its wines, it is not well known outside of Germany, because it exports very little.

From north to south, Baden spans approximately 200 kilometers, and is primarily situated on the right bank of the Rhein river. On the left bank is Alsace in France. Lying primarily in the Rhine rift with the protection of Vosges Mountains to the west and the Black Forrest to the east, Baden’s climate is the warmest in Germany Baden is divided into nine districts.

Baden is known for its Pinot wines, both white and red, which account for more than half of Baden’s wine output. Riesling plays only a minor role. By far the most commonly cultivated single variety is Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) with nearly forty percent of the total vineyard area. Muller-Thurgau, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Chasselas are the main white varieties cultivated, but none more widely than Muller-Thurgau.

In Baden - like in Wuerttemberg - the wine industry is dominated by wine co-operatives; they account for 85% of the region's production. This explains the low export share. Private winemakers are the exception.

Weingut Arndt Koebelin

Arndt Koeblin started his own winery in 2005, when he took over his parents’ estate in the Kaiserstuhl region of Baden. Before that, he was the head winemaker of the Winzergenossenschaft (wine co-operative) Durbach. He also did internships in New Zealand and in Burgundy. 2005 was Arndt’s first vintage. Since the 2006 vintage, he has been an essential part of the K+M Gutsweine portfolio.

Pictures: Arndt Koebelin and Bernd Mauer

When Arndt took over from his parents, he knew he had to change quite a bit. Importantly, he built a new winery. Today, Weingut Arndt Koebelin is based just outside of Eichstetten. It is a modern, state-of the art operation. Arndt also switched to organic farming in the vineyard. The vines are up to 40 years old.  

The Wines Arndt Poured

The Weingut Arndt Koeblin wine portfolio is dominated by Pinot varities – as Gris, Noir and Blanc: Grauburgunder, Spaetburginder and Weisser Burgunder. But Arndt also makes some Riesling and Rivaner. Here are the wines Arndt poured in Frankfurt.


2010 Rivaner Kabinett trocken 6.20 Euro

2008 Gutensberg SR trocken (K+M Exklusiv)

2009 Spaetburgunder QbA trocken im Holzfass gereift 10.20 Euro

The special microclimate of the vineyard (at night cool temperatures and quick drying off of the grapes by the morning sun), bordering a forest, contributes to fresh, highly aromatic Pinot Noirs with a good structure.

2008 Spaetburgunder trocken S *** im Barrique gereift 15.30 Euro

2007 Spaetburgunder MAGNUM trocken S *** im Barrique gereift, 1.5 ltr. 31.90 Euro

2010 Grauer Burgunder Kabinett trocken 8.90 Euro

2010 Grauer Burgunder *** Selection Spaetlese trocken 13.50 Euro

Arndt’s white wines are all harvested in very small containers. The most is moved via gravity and without pumping. Arndt also lets the most sit for 24 hours at 3 degrees Celsius with the objective of stabilizing and harmonizing the flavors in the grapes before fermentation. After the most is pressed, it spends another night at 3 degrees Celsius. Only then the fermentation starts with natural yeasts. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks and for the Pinot Gris "S" in barrels.

N.V Pinot Sekt brut Privat Cuvee 13.50 Euro

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