Thursday, November 5, 2015

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)

Picture: Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem

This is my list of my favorite wine places in Beaune. It includes not only wine bars, i.e. places where you go for a glass of wine and perhaps some cold cuts, but also some restaurants with a strong wine list.

Picture: Hotel Dieu in Beaune

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

I have been to Beaune many times over a span of several decades. When my wife Annette Schiller decided to include a Bourgogne wine tour in her portfolio of the ombiasy wine tours, I compiled an initial list of my favorite wine bars in Beaune, which I updated following the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015). 

For an overview of the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), see:
Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

The next tour is scheduled for 2016, see:
Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller in Beaune

Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem

2 Place Ziem

Wine Bar

Belle sélection de vins nature de toutes régions et de plus classiques mais non moins jolies cuvées bourguignonnes, le tout servi par l'ancien tebancier du Square, Alex, un garçon jovial et connaisseur dans un endroit plutôt exigu mais chaleureux ! Impatient d'y retourner avec mes comparses !

Pictures: At Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem with Owner Alex Meuriot and Winemaker/Owner Andrew Nielson of Le Grappin, a Cult Wine

La Dilettante

11 Rue du Faubourg Bretonnière

Wine Bar

Jameson Fink: I can think of no place more charming and laid-back than La Dilettante in Beaune, especially when you have a free and leisurely afternoon available. Simple chalkboard menus for wine and food. Who can resist a 2010 Lafon Macon-Uchizy for 5 euros? Your savory food selections consist of an assortment of meats and cheeses, a salad, and a soup.

Linda Watkins:La Dilettante (+33 3 80 21 48 59), with its cosy ‘bodega’ ambience, is the latest venture by ‘Lolo’, formerly of the much-lauded Caves Madeleine bistro. Wines include hard-to-find gems from all over France, complemented by organic food.

Pictures: At La Dilletante with Owner Lauren Brelin

Les Vins de Maurice

8 rue Fraisse

Wine Store and Wine Bar

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane: Les Vins de Maurice has become a gathering place for lovers of natural wine in Beaune, the strategically-placed town in the centre of Burgundy. We first heard about it from Alice Feiring, who in turn had learned about it from Fanny Sabre, the young Burgundian winemaker.

The wine list has been put together by Maurice, the owner, and it is an extensive selection from many parts of France, with particular strength in Burgundian cuvees.

You can select a bottle from the cave and they will open it for a modest surcharge on takeaway prices. You can then order from the short selection of dishes which include excellent charcuterie and cheeses but also beautifully made savoury and sweet tarts.

Pictures: At La Maison de Maurice with Maurice Marle

Le Bar du Square

26 Boulevard Maréchal Foch

Wine Bar

Not drinking poison in Paris (February 2012): If I still entertain ideas about residing in Beaune someday, it's largely due to a very memorable nightcap my friend J and I shared with winemaker Axelle Machard de Gramont and her friend E at Bar du Square, an unassuming bar du coin that early last year came under the proprietorship of the lively and well-connected Romain Escoffier, son of the owners of nearby bistro-legend Ma Cuisine. Perhaps semi-inadvertently, he's created the most sophisticated bar concept I've ever encountered, an establishment that would be the toast of Paris or New York or London, were wine supply channels ever to change to allow its successful replication in those cities.

The concept is simple: a killer, bargain-filled Burgundy list, without a restaurant attached. Instead, there's an electric guitar lashed to the bar taps, and the Kinks on the stereo.

On a Tuesday night, pushing midnight, there were no less than three generations of locals enjoying the atmosphere.

Un petit bar à vin très sympa, idéal pour partager un moment avec des amis, mais aussi rencontrer de nouvelles têtes. Un lieu convivial où le patron, Romain, sait mettre l'ambiance ! Il change sa carte de vins très souvent et on aime se poser à une des tables pour refaire le monde. Spécialisé en vins, certes, mais on y trouve aussi d'autres alcools, dont des spiritueux ou bières. Cognacs à la demande, petit lieu très chaleureux pour boire un verre.

Pictures: At Le Bar du Square

Le Bistrot Bourguignon

8 rue Monge

Bistrot and Wine Bar

Linda Watkins: In Beaune, the town’s oldest wine bar, Le Bistro Bourguignon (+33 3 80 22 23 24), is a bustling bohemian affair that features more than 20 wines by the glass.

Burgundyeye: The Bistrot Bourguignon is open at lunchtimes and in the evenings from Tuesday to Saturday and has a large range of wines available, either by the glass or by the bottle. Jean-Jacques Hegner offers a selection of some of the best domaine names from Burgundy and elsewhere of which about 20 by the glass from Chablis, Côte de Beaune, Côtes de Nuits and Mâcon. The wines sold by the glass are constantly evolving. Chef Benoît Roux offers a delicious, traditional and regional cuisine influenced by new flavours to tempt and excite your taste buds.

Picture: Bistrot Bourguignon

Maison du Colombier

1 Rue Charles Cloutier

Linda Watkins: Having sold his Michelin-starred restaurant Le Jardin des Remparts, Roland Chanliaud is now the owner and chef of Maison du Colombier ‘gastro-bar’, where patrons can explore his epic wine list on a terrace facing the lovely Notre Dame basilica.

According to Bernd Klingenbrunn , wine retailer in Frankfurt, Germany, Maison du Colombier has the best wine list in Beaune.

Picture: Maison du Colombier (Photo: Linda Watkins)

Au But du Monde

7 rue Faubourg Madeleine

New wine bar in Beaune, with links to the Ma Cuisine Restaurant (see below). I only passed by.

Pictures: Au But du Monde

Ma Cuisine

Passage St Helene

Restaurant

Recommended by Mosel Star Winemaker Nik Weis.

Not drinking poison in Paris: With its heartbreakingly long wine list, its brisk service, its richly satisfying menu, Ma Cuisine succeeds by any standard. Only later was I to understand that the restaurant's success stands out yet further in Beaune, where curiously enough there are not many good restaurants.

Ma Cuisine accordingly is sort of the lifeblood of the town. Every Burgundy winemaker, importer, major collector and retailer passes through the dining room a few times a year, it seems.

Justburgundy.com: It is invariably busy and being small this means a bustling atmosphere rather than sedate calm. It is also usually full, so booking is advisable. Just off one of the main squares, under an archway and down a small side-street, you will find this small family run restaurant of one large room with some 20 tables. The food is varied and excellent and the wine list is extensive. It only opens four days a week, being closed on Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday. As the owner explained to us, he enjoys doing other things too!

L’Oiseau de Vignes

31 Rue Maufoux

Restaurant

Loiseau des Vignes is a restaurant in the heart of the capital of wine tourism which offers an entire list of rare wines by the glass.

These 70 white and red wines are mainly Burgundy labels selected by Eric Goettelman, the Loiseau Group’s executive head sommelier: ‘The wine list features both young hopefuls and also established wines. We have also selected some attractive wines from wine merchants Jadot, Drouhin, Bichot, Bouchard… However, the real surprise is that we can supply, when available, famous wines which cannot normally be found. Wines produced by people like Jean-François Coche-Dury, Bonneau du Martray, Comtes Lafon, Domaine Raveneau, to mention but a few. This unique selection means that anyone can sample a rare wine or simply taste new wines. The price per glass ranges from 5 € to 45 €.

Loiseau des Vignes uses the Enomatic® system, an item of cutting-edge equipment which allows very fine vintages to be served by the glass, in the best conditions at the appropriate temperature, preserving all their qualities.

Pictures: Loiseau des Vignes

La Part des Anges

24 bis rue d’Alsace

Restaurant and Wine Bar

Burgundyeye: La Part des Anges is a wine bar and restaurant featuring contemporary cuisine and an excellent choice of wines. This restaurant stands out for its classy style and the relaxed atmosphere. This is the meeting point for chic Beaune. The food, refined and inventive, is often Mediterranean in style, the wines are chosen from among the best in Burgundy and other regions of France. Staff and owners are friendly and professional. Let the party begin!

Tripadvisor: A busy town centre restaurant in mainly pedestrian area. Not cheap, but a good menu and excellently prepared and served food. A huge wine list - if that's your thing!

Pictures: La Part des Anges

Auberge Bourguignonne

4 place Madeleine

Restaurant

Not a wine bar, but a traditional, small hotel and restaurant that serves classic French food. “What takes Auberge Bourguignonne from 3 to 4 stars is the cheese course. The best in the city! Unlike any other restaurant, they wheel over a giant board of cheeses, ranging in ages, flavors and consistencies, and ask "what would you like".

The tables are small, the service a bit slow and the food very good for the money. We've eaten here three or four times.

They also have a little lounge area where you can just have a glass of wine.

Pictures: Auberge Bourguignonne

Schiller’ Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA  
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of the Abbey of Cluny and Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch and Winetasting at La Table de Olivier in Pouligny Montrachet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Mestre - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Visit: Musée de l’Hospice de Beaune with Karoline Knoth, M.A.

Domaine A-F Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier 

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and  Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

3 comments:

  1. Focusing on fresh-from-the-farm meat and vegetables produced within a 100km radius of Beaune, this cosy little restaurant changes its menu daily. Reserve ahead for a private table, or enjoy a more convivial experience at the long shared table backed by wine racks.

    Caves Madeleine 6 rue Faubourg Madelein - cosy little wine centered restaurant with communal table

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  2. Judith Schultze We go every year to Burgundy, and are currently here--some favorites: in Beaune, Caves Madeleine, La Lune, Caveau des Arches, La Cibolette; in Puligny-Montrachet, a Le Montrachet; in Chassagne-Montrachet, Ed.Em; in Nuits St George, Le Cabotte; in Chambolle-Musigny, Le Chambolle; in Gevrey-Chambertin, Chez Guy

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  3. Bernd Klingenbrunn eating Abendessen at Caves Madeleine Beaune with Barbara Brendel.

    ReplyDelete