Thursday, July 7, 2016

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Picture: Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem in Beaune

This is a list of my favorite wine venues in Beaune. It includes 3 groups of wine places: First, proper wine bars, i.e. places where you go for a glass of wine and perhaps some cold cuts; second, bistros, brasseries and restaurants with a bar, and third, restaurants with a strong wine list.

This is an update of my earlier posting: Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)

Picture: Hotel Dieu in Beaune

Bourgogne Tours by ombiasy WineTours

I have been to Beaune many times over a span of several decades. When my wife Annette Schiller decided to include a Bourgogne wine tour in her portfolio of the ombiasy wine tours, I started to visit Beaune more frequently.

For an overview of this year's Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours, see: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

The next Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours is scheduled for May 25 to June 4, 2017.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller in Beaune

Wine Bars

Le But du Monde

7 rue Faubourg Madeleine

New wine bar in Beaune. Probably the best wine bar in Beaune currently. Impressive wine list. Owned and run by Fabienne Escoffier, who, with her ex-husband Pierre Escoffier used to own and run Ma Cuisine (see below).

Trip advisor: Super bon moment pour une dégustation de Bourgogne par deux bordelais ! Accueil, cadre, ambiance, musique parfaits, sans parler des vins merveilleux et de l'assiette de charcuterie fromages très copieuse et très bonne. Parfait, ne changez rien.

Pictures: Le But du Monde with Annette Schiller and Fabienne Escoffier

Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem

2 Place Ziem

A very small and intimate place. Cosy. Limited, but very interesting list of wines.

Belle sélection de vins nature de toutes régions et de plus classiques mais non moins jolies cuvées bourguignonnes, le tout servi par l'ancien tebancier du Square, Alex, un garçon jovial et connaisseur dans un endroit plutôt exigu mais chaleureux ! Impatient d'y retourner avec mes comparses !

Picture: Owner Alex Meuriot

Pictures: At Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem with Winemaker/ Owner Andrew Nielson of Le Grappin, a Cult Wine

Pictures: Owner Alex Meuriot and Vincent Boyer of Domaine Boyer-Martenot in Meursault, and Rachid Agag, Les Ventes d'Anges in Belgium (Domaine Boyer-Martenot Importer)

Picture: Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem

La Dilettante

11 Rue du Faubourg Bretonnière

Jameson Fink: I can think of no place more charming and laid-back than La Dilettante in Beaune, especially when you have a free and leisurely afternoon available. Simple chalkboard menus for wine and food. Who can resist a 2010 Lafon Macon-Uchizy for 5 euros? Your savory food selections consist of an assortment of meats and cheeses, a salad, and a soup.

Linda Watkins: La Dilettante (+33 3 80 21 48 59), with its cosy ‘bodega’ ambience, is the latest venture by ‘Lolo’, formerly of the much-lauded Caves Madeleine bistro. Wines include hard-to-find gems from all over France, complemented by organic food.

Pictures: At La Dilletante with Owner Lauren Brelin

Les Vins de Maurice

8 rue Fraisse

Maurice is a champion of natural wine. A very intimate wine bar. There is also a wine store and there are 4 large guest rooms.

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane: Les Vins de Maurice has become a gathering place for lovers of natural wine in Beaune, the strategically-placed town in the centre of Burgundy. We first heard about it from Alice Feiring, who in turn had learned about it from Fanny Sabre, the young Burgundian winemaker.

The wine list has been put together by Maurice, the owner, and it is an extensive selection from many parts of France, with particular strength in Burgundian cuvees.

You can select a bottle from the cave and they will open it for a modest surcharge on takeaway prices. You can then order from the short selection of dishes which include excellent charcuterie and cheeses but also beautifully made savoury and sweet tarts.

Pictures: At La Maison de Maurice with Maurice Marle

Les Mille et une Vignes

61 Rue de Lorraine, 21200 Beaune, France
Closed Sunday and Monday, Open Tuesday-Saturday from 11:00am-2:00am

Trip Advisor: I don’t know if “quaint” is the right word for it, probably “quirky” is more appropriate, but if you want a quick drink it is perfect. This is not a classy place, by any means, but the staff (one very nice your lady who spoke good English) is very accommodating and works hard. The atmosphere is naughty nautical? Clotheslines inside with ladies underwear hanging off it, one big picnic table for enjoying your wine communally. It was fun, it was comfortable, it was small, but has an outdoor patio.

Trip Advisor: Voilà une bonne adresse à Beaune pour boire un coup. Un bon choix de vins à bon prix, y a moyen de grignoter un bout. Une ambiance chaleureuse et familiale. Fiesta assurée, surtout lors de la vente des vins en novembre.

Pictures: Les Mille et une Vignons and Owner/ General Manager Marine Sevestre

Bistros/ Brasseries/ Restaurants with Bar Area

Le Bar du Square

26 Boulevard Maréchal Foch

Le Bar du Square used to be a winebar, but has recently changed its approach and has become more a restaurant/ brasserie

Picture: Table du Square

Not drinking poison in Paris (February 2012): If I still entertain ideas about residing in Beaune someday, it's largely due to a very memorable nightcap my friend J and I shared with winemaker Axelle Machard de Gramont and her friend E at Bar du Square, an unassuming bar du coin that early last year came under the proprietorship of the lively and well-connected Romain Escoffier, son of the owners of nearby bistro-legend Ma Cuisine. Perhaps semi-inadvertently, he's created the most sophisticated bar concept I've ever encountered, an establishment that would be the toast of Paris or New York or London, were wine supply channels ever to change to allow its successful replication in those cities.

Un petit bar à vin très sympa, idéal pour partager un moment avec des amis, mais aussi rencontrer de nouvelles têtes. Un lieu convivial où le patron, Romain, sait mettre l'ambiance ! Il change sa carte de vins très souvent et on aime se poser à une des tables pour refaire le monde. Spécialisé en vins, certes, mais on y trouve aussi d'autres alcools, dont des spiritueux ou bières. Cognacs à la demande, petit lieu très chaleureux pour boire un verre.

Pictures: At Le Bar/ Table du Square

Le Bistrot Bourguignon

8 rue Monge

Linda Watkins: In Beaune, the town’s oldest wine bar, Le Bistro Bourguignon (+33 3 80 22 23 24), is a bustling bohemian affair that features more than 20 wines by the glass.

Burgundyeye: The Bistrot Bourguignon is open at lunchtimes and in the evenings from Tuesday to Saturday and has a large range of wines available, either by the glass or by the bottle. Jean-Jacques Hegner offers a selection of some of the best domaine names from Burgundy and elsewhere of which about 20 by the glass from Chablis, Côte de Beaune, Côtes de Nuits and Mâcon. The wines sold by the glass are constantly evolving. Chef Benoît Roux offers a delicious, traditional and regional cuisine influenced by new flavours to tempt and excite your taste buds.

Pictures: Bistrot Bourguignon

Brasserie Le Carnot

18 Rue Carnot

Traditional French brasserie, next to Le Bistrot Bourguignon. Open 7 days a week from morning to midnight.

Pictures: At Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune with Owner Denise Marabito

Maison du Colombier

1 Rue Charles Cloutier

Linda Watkins: Having sold his Michelin-starred restaurant Le Jardin des Remparts, Roland Chanliaud is now the owner and chef of Maison du Colombier ‘gastro-bar’, where patrons can explore his epic wine list on a terrace facing the lovely Notre Dame basilica.

According to Bernd Klingenbrunn , wine retailer in Frankfurt, Germany, Maison du Colombier has the best wine list in Beaune. Peter Wasserman agrees: Le Colombier IS the best wine bar in Beaune with THE best list hands down.

Picture: Maison du Colombier

Wine-centered Restaurants

Ma Cuisine

Passage St Helene

Not drinking poison in Paris: With its heartbreakingly long wine list, its brisk service, its richly satisfying menu, Ma Cuisine succeeds by any standard. Only later was I to understand that the restaurant's success stands out yet further in Beaune, where curiously enough there are not many good restaurants. Ma Cuisine accordingly is sort of the lifeblood of the town. Every Burgundy winemaker, importer, major collector and retailer passes through the dining room a few times a year, it seems.

Justburgundy.com: It is invariably busy and being small this means a bustling atmosphere rather than sedate calm. It is also usually full, so booking is advisable. Just off one of the main squares, under an archway and down a small side-street, you will find this small family run restaurant of one large room with some 20 tables. The food is varied and excellent and the wine list is extensive. It only opens four days a week, being closed on Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday. As the owner explained to us, he enjoys doing other things too!

Pictures: Ma Cuisine

Caves Madeleine

6 rue Faubourg Madeleine

Opposite of Au But du Monde.

Wall Street Journal: … It's a cozy, unpretentious place that looks a lot like many other small bistros in France, with two crucial distinctions: its wine selection and its proprietor, Laurent Brelin, aka "Lolo," who looks like a taller, more-handsome Jack Black.... There is no actual wine list; diners simply look over the bottles on the shelves and hand their selections to Lolo. The wines—and the prices—are nothing short of remarkable, as with the 2008 François Raveneau Valmur Chablis for a mere €73 (about $98), plus a €6 corkage charge. There were red Burgundies from great producers like Frédéric Mugnier, Méo-Camuzet and Marquis d'Angerville at equally reasonable prices … … Alison, in turn, was much impressed by the food, which was simple and unpretentious but very good (roasted cod, ravioli, leeks vinaigrette). The wine, meanwhile, was stunning—not to mention the best wine deal of my dining life. "I don't want to eat anywhere else," Alison said when dinner was over. "And I don't want to drink anywhere else," I replied.

Peter Wasserman commented on Facebook after I had released the posting: Lolo has not owned or operated the Caves Madeleine for 3 years. The food is amazing and the wine list very good.

Pictures: Caves Madeleine

L’Oiseau de Vignes

31 Rue Maufoux

Loiseau des Vignes is a restaurant in the heart of the capital of wine tourism which offers an entire list of rare wines by the glass.

These 70 white and red wines are mainly Burgundy labels selected by Eric Goettelman, the Loiseau Group’s executive head sommelier: ‘The wine list features both young hopefuls and also established wines. We have also selected some attractive wines from wine merchants Jadot, Drouhin, Bichot, Bouchard… However, the real surprise is that we can supply, when available, famous wines which cannot normally be found. Wines produced by people like Jean-François Coche-Dury, Bonneau du Martray, Comtes Lafon, Domaine Raveneau, to mention but a few. This unique selection means that anyone can sample a rare wine or simply taste new wines. The price per glass ranges from 5 € to 45 €.

Loiseau des Vignes uses the Enomatic® system, an item of cutting-edge equipment which allows very fine vintages to be served by the glass, in the best conditions at the appropriate temperature, preserving all their qualities.

Pictures: Loiseau des Vignes

Auberge Bourguignonne

4 place Madeleine

A a traditional restaurant that serves classic French food. And: It is open on Sundays.

Trip advisor: What takes Auberge Bourguignonne from 3 to 4 stars is the cheese course. The best in the city! Unlike any other restaurant, they wheel over a giant board of cheeses, ranging in ages, flavors and consistencies, and ask "what would you like".

They also have a little lounge area where you can just have a glass of wine.

Pictures: Auberge Bourguignonne

Schiller’ Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar 

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at the Iconic L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges-­au-­Mont­ d’Or

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully­Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­ Morgon, Beaujolais, with Madame Descombes

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Owner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot

Visit of Château de Rully and Tasting of the Château de Rully Wines with Count Raoul de Ternay

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune, with Michel Prunier

Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet, Côte de Beaune: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes

Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet

Visit of the Hospice de Beaune

Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune

Tour of the Ancient Cellars and Tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune

An American in Burgundy: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny ­lès­ Beaune with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel

Charcuterie and Cheese Paired with 12 Burgundy Wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune with Maurice Marle

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-­Saint­-George, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-­George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger­-Belair in Nuits­-Saint­-George with Thibault Liger-­Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Spots in Chablis

Champagne – An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots 

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé­ sur ­Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims


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