Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France

Picture: Christian Schiller in Chablis

Possibilities to drink wine – in order to buy wine, to drink a glass or two in a wine bar or to have a bottle in a restaurant during a meal – are more limited in the village of Chablis than I thought before visiting Chablis. But Chablis-Village is small with a popuation of only less than 3000.

Here is the outcome of my research. The lists includes (1) restaurants with strong wine lists, (2) wine bars and (3) wine tasting facilities.

Chablis

Chablis is part of the Bourgogne wine region, but wines from Chablis are usually referred to by their own name. Chablis is halfway between Paris and Beaune. The medieval village of Chablis is at the center of the Chablis wine region. Of course, the wines from the region dominate the wine lists of Chablis, but you also find a large selection of other wines from the Bourgogne. See also: Pure Chablis – A tête-à-tête Dinner in Washington DC at Marcel’s with Chablis Wine Board President and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, USA/France

Pictures: Chablis-Village

Bourgogne Tours by ombiasy WineTours

I have been to Chablis a few times, always related the Bourgogne Tours by ombiasy WineTours, run by my wife Annette Schiller.

For an overview of this year's Bourgogne and Champagne Tour by ombiasy WineTours, see: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

The next Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours is scheduled for May 25 to June 4, 2017.

Pictures: Wine Pairing Lunch, Vineyard Walk, Cellar Visit, and Tasting at Domaine Jean-­Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis, with Jean-Marc Brocard. See: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Hostellerie des Clos

Hostellerie des Clos is the best restaurant in town. In my view, it is at the level of 1 star Michelin, but does not have a star, although it used to have one. The wine list is impressive.

Clive Coates (My Favorite Burgundies, 2013): For those travelling in the region: The Hostellerie des Clos has always been the place to stay. One Michelin star food and simple but perfectly adequate and modestly priced bedrooms. I dined there twice on my recent visit. The food was even finer than I have found it to be in the past. Bravo to Mr. Vignaud and his team.

Pictures: Dinner at Hostellerie des Clos. See: Dinner at the Hostellerie des Clos in Chablis (Chef: Michel Vignaud), France

Trip Adviser: Return the Star - Michel Vignaud used to have one Michelin star when he ran the restaurant a few years back. He then turned over the restaurant to become manager of the hotel, and the restaurant lost its star. Michel Vignaud is back in the kitchen, and the dinner showed it. The depth of the wine cellar and fair pricing is staggering. We have been to this hotel and restaurant 12 times. Our tables have ranged in size from three to 12 guests. We always have great meals, superb wines, and great service. Our last visit included 8 folks that had a wide range of menu items. Everyone was totally pleased with everything that was served. At the end of the meal, the chef came out and visited. He remembered us from earlier visits and told us that hotel was going to be renovated soon. We will always make an effort to stay and eat at this place whenever we are near Chablis.

Fil de Zinq

Fil de Zinq is the other top restaurant in town, but a step below Hostellerie des Clos. Fil de Zinq has arguably the best wine list in town. In addition, it has a bar area, where you can sit at the counter and just have a glass of wine.

Lefooding.com: A wine cellar that’s overflowing with Chablis (Fèvre, Raveneau, Dauvissat, Drouhin, De Moor…), Irancy (Richoux, Quentin…), Auxerre (Goisot, Morin) and other Burgundy wines, ranging from €20 a bottle to €1,300 for a 2008 Romanée-Conti Richebourg. This big dining room with stonewalls, whitewashed rafters and a central bar that spans the Serein River, is run by a young but experienced team: Ryo Nagahama, who used to work for Robuchon and Alléno, takes care of the savory dishes; Vanessa Chang, a former pastry chef at Pierre Hermé, does the desserts; and Fabien Espana works the room. They pull off some very nice highs, along with a few lows: the appetizers were good (egg, shrimp, peas or asparagus, parmesan and bulgur), the main courses less so (Clavisy lamb, carrots and romanesco cabbage or duck, lemons and young garlic, which was overcooked), but the desserts made up for that (praline and caramel millefeuille, or chocolate slivers, vanilla cream and berries). Wines by the glass €4-9. Formula €27-32, set menu €53. // M.L

Michelin Guide: A Japanese chef who has worked at Robuchon and Alléno, and an excellent pastry chef (his wife): from starter to dessert, the duo hit the spot with their professionalism. It has a neo-bistro cooking style, creative use of ingredients, and panache! Local wines take pride of place, and the charming setting is an old mill spanning the river. Bib Gourmand: good quality, good value cooking.

Pictures: At Fil de Zinq with Fabien Espana

Bar Chablis

A simple café/ brasserie where the locals hang out.

Trip advisor: First came here 15 years ago and have been coming back every other year. The place has hardly changed and it still feels the same. The best thing is to sit on the terrace, order a nice glass (or two) of Chablis premier cru, have a little snack and look around... Life can be so simple! Food wise the place is not special, it's really the bar (and thereby the Chablis) it's all about. And that's how it should be.

Picture: Chablis Bar

Bistro des Grand Crus

Just down the road of the Hostellerie des Clos. It is a fine bistro, operated by the people of the Hostellerie des Clos.

Saveur: This is the place to sample simple, old-fashioned, bistro-style Burgundian classics like oeufs en meurette or escargots de Bourgogne, especially when paired with a well-priced bottle of chablis by Vincent Dauvissat. 10 rue Jules Rathier

Picture: Bistro des Grand Crus

S. Charles

S. Charles is the best tasting room in town. It is mainly a wine store, but you can taste the wines (if you want to buy) or taste and pay for them if you do not want to buy. S. Charles closes at 6 pm.

Lonely Planet: English-speaking owners Arnaud and Guillaume run this combination wine shop, tasting room and self-proclaimed oenobistro, where you can enjoy 3cl sampler glasses (€1.25 to €4.75) or full 12cl glasses (€5 to €19) of Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines accompanied by local cheeses, charcuterie, snails and other snacks (€5 to €15) .

Pictures: At S. Chablis with Owner Arnaud Valour

Tasting Room of Albert Bichet

A number of Chablis producers have tasting rooms in Chablis. I like the one of Albert Bichet, but the tasting room of Jean Marc Brocard and the tasting room of William Fevre (next to the Hostellerie des Clos) are also recommended. See also: Meeting Matthieu Mangenot, Managing Director of Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, France and Tasting His Wines

Pictures: Château Long-Depaquit of Maison Albert Bichot

Schiller’ Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne
Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar 

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at the Iconic L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges-­au-­Mont­ d’Or

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully ­Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­ Morgon, Beaujolais, with Madame Descombes

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Owner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot

Visit of Château de Rully and Tasting of the Château de Rully Wines with Count Raoul de Ternay

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune, with Michel Prunier

Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet, Côte de Beaune: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes

Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet

Visit of the Hospice de Beaune

Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune

Tour of the Ancient Cellars and Tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

An American in Burgundy: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny ­lès­ Beaune with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel

Charcuterie and Cheese Paired with 12 Burgundy Wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune with Maurice Marle

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-­Saint­-George, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-­George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger­-Belair in Nuits­-Saint­-George with Thibault Liger-­Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Spots in Chablis

Champagne – An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots 

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé­ sur ­Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Pure Chablis – A tête-à-tête Dinner in Washington DC at Marcel’s with Chablis Wine Board President and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, USA/France

Meeting Matthieu Mangenot, Managing Director of Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, France and Tasting His Wines

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France 



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