Wednesday, January 25, 2017

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France - An Update

Picture: Christian Schiller at L'Envers du Decor

I regularly visit St. Emilion, on the annual Bordeaux Tour by ombaisy. St. Emilion is a very magic place, a medieval village, full of narrow, steep streets. In 1999, the town was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, due to the uniqueness of its territory and some of the monuments that can be visited in the medieval village, first of all the Monolithic church with its bell tower, the Europe's largest underground church carved into the rock.

See here:

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Pictures: St. Emilion

St Emilion's history stretches back to Roman times, when the Roman ruler Decimus Magnus Ausonius founded a small property here in the 4th century, when the Romans controlled Gaul (France). Ausonius’ name has been immortalized in the famous St-Emilion winery, Chateau Ausone.

St Emilion's founding father was a Benedictine Monk called Emilian. Emilian spent the last decades of his life creating a large cave in which he lived until his death in 787. His work was taken over by the Monks who continued to create a vast network of caves, catacombs and eventually the Church that stands today. After Emilian´s death, the settlement continued to prosper and grew into an important outpost of the Aquitaine province in the 12th century. St Emilon's peaceful existence was shattered during the Hundred Years War, a conflict between England and France for control of the French throne and control of her territories, which engulfed France from the mid-1400s. After the conflict ended, St Emilion enjoyed a peaceful existence, which lasted until the French Revolution in 1789.

The 1800s were a great time for Bordeaux's winemakers, as their produce was finding massive favour across Europe fuelling a newfound era of prosperity for St Emilion's many chateaux.

See also:
Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France
The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Wine Bars

This is an update of an earlier posting: Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France, 2014

There is only a very limited number of wine bars in St. Emilion. Here are my favorites.

Chai Pascal

37, Rue Guadet

My #1 wine bar in St. Emilion. Chai Pascal is a small, relaxed place, with lovely wines and a limited but interesting food menu. Note that there is only one chef in the kitchen.

Pictures: Christian and Annetter Schiller at Chai Pascal with Catherine Papon-Nouvel

Pictures: Charcuterie and Fromage at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion. See: Charcuterie and Fromage at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Chai Pascal is run by Pascal Fauvel, and Catherine Papon-Nouvel, the owner of three St. Emilion chateaux: Château Gaillard, Château Petit Gravet Ainé and Clos Saint Julien. Catherine’s wines are of course on offer but also many of her colleagues’ wines.

L'Envers du Decor

11, rue du Clocher

Owned by winemaker Francois de Ligneris (ex-owner of Chateau Soutard) this lively wine bar and bistro has a great list of interesting wines, with many by the glass. A favorite with locals who sit at the bar for wine by the glass or eat there. Locals call this place an "institution".

Pictures: L'Envers du Decor

The outdoor setting in the courtyard is lovely, especially on a warm summer night.

Le Bouchon

3 place du Marche

Not a wine bar, but still included in the list. The Bouchon is located in the central square of St. Emilion where it occupies a large outdoor space. The food is average, but the wine list is quite serious, including an impressive list of Tertre Rotebeuf wines. Foremost, it is a great location during a warm summer night for a magical moment in the heart of St. Emilion.

Pictures: At Le Bouchon

Lard et Bouchon

22, rue Guadet

Restaurant and wine bar in a medieval cellar.

Pictures: Lard et Bouchon

Le Bistrot des Vignobles

Rue de la Porte Bouqueyre

Picture: Le Bistrot des Vignobles

Logis de Cadene

3 Place du Marché au Bois

The Logis de Cadene is owned by the Boüard de Laforest family of Château Angélus. A Saint-Emilion institution: Founded in 1848, Logis de la Cadène is one of the oldest restaurants in Saint-Emilion and over time has become a true institution revered by passing visitors as well as regular locals.This family-run restaurant has played such an intimate part in the history of Saint-Emilion. It was always a favourite of the Boüard de Laforest family living in nearby Château Angélus since 1782, and they ended up acquiring it in summer 2013.

Guide MICHELIN 2016:Truffes en risotto lié au parmesan ; homard et volaille en fricassée, légumes de printemps croquants et émulsion d'ail nouveau... Le chef, Alexandre Baumard, met à profit le meilleur du terroir pour composer une cuisine fine et inventive, qui évolue au fil des saisons. Agréable terrasse aux beaux jours.

Belle carte des vins.

Pictures: Logis de Cadene

Terrasse Rouge

1 La Dominique

Domaine de la Dominique

A restaurant of Nicolas Lascombes

europeanbestdestinations.com: Saint-Emilion is not a sleepy village frozen in time. The largest wineries compete to offer visitors a unique unprecedented experience. This boldness has resulted in the realization of some great projects such as this fabulous restaurant designed by the famous French architect Jean Nouvel on the domaine de la Dominique. This is surely a perfect marriage and an incredible architectural boldness where modernity and authenticity form a very successful unique whole.

By climbing to the first floor where the restaurant is located, you will soon understand why this place is called La Terrasse Rouge (the Red Terrace). Much of the terrace is covered with beautiful red and shiny pebble glass. With the vineyards in sight, this incredible landscape is the perfect introduction to this very well equipped and welcoming restaurant.

Nowadays, restaurants are often too noisy and poorly soundproofed; here, however, thanks to modern design, you will not be disturbed by your neighbours; enjoy a generous traditional and refined cuisine in complete tranquility in this beautiful setting. For coffee or digestif, enjoy the terrace and the incredible views of the vineyards.

Gault/Millau: (12/20)  Le restaurant du domaine, installé sur le toit de son chai répond à une nouvelle tendance des châteaux bordelais, d’ouvrir leur grilles à une clientèle de connaisseurs prête à déguster, le regard posé sur les vignobles environnants. Le cadre est confortable et adapté à la dégustation d’huîtres, de caviar, de viandes à la braise ou à la broche. Les desserts de la Terrasse, fromages affinés ou chocolat, café gourmand et tartare de fruits terminent un repas simple et adapté. La cave fait écho à son environnement.

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Schiller’s Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne
Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, Washington State, USA - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA (2013)
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar 

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