Nicolas Rossignol, Owner and Winemaker at Domaine Rossignol in the Bourgogne, was in town (Washington DC) and I had the pleasure to wine and dine with him at Evo Bistro, my „cantine“ just a few miles away from my home in McLean, Virginia.
The evening was orchestrated by Laurant Lala, from Elite Wines, Importer and Distributor of the wines of Domaine Rossignol and Chef Driss Zahidi, Owner and Chef of Evo Bistro.
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
Nicolas Rossignol is one of the best examples of a new generation of Burgundy wine makers whose great wines lie in the future rather than the past, entering the fray in 1994. Born in 1974, he represents the 5th generation of vine growers on the soils of Volnay. After completing his technical formation at the enology school in Beaune, Nicolas put his knowledge into practice, staging at Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay, Domaine Louis Latour in Ardeche and Domaine Vieux Telegraphe in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Anxious to learn other farming and winemaking techniques, he went to work in South Africa at Domaine Boschendal Stellenbosch in 1995, followed by Château Cardonne, owned by Château Lafite-Rothchild in Bordeaux.
Upon his return home to his family’s Domaine (Rossignol-Jeanniard) Nicolas began vinifying in 1994. However, it was not long before he started his own Estate. In 1997, he acquired approximately 7.5 acres spread over the communes of Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Aloxe-Corton and Pernand- Vergelesses. In 1998, he increased his vineyard holdings by about 3.5 acres.
Today, Nicolas makes wine from his own 17 acre estate, as well as from his fathers's vineyards.
Pinot File: Nicolas Rossignol is one of the best examples of the new generation of winemakers in Burgundy. The wines go through a long fermentation (4 weeks, during which 1 to 2 weeks of cold pre-fermentation). He uses moderate amounts of new oak. The wines are bottled without fining or filtering.
Christopher Massie on Wine: The wine-making style Nicolas prefers can be best described as “sophisticated” – to borrow a term from Allen Meadows of Burghound, who describes these wines precisely as such. Towards producing wines of classic proportions, offering intense levels of the purist fruit as well as silky tannins and laser-focused transparency, he utilizes whole clusters during fermentation. Nicolas prefers the sweetness this method imparts to the finished wines (ala Jayer), but also stresses that this method must be avoided in vintages where the stems are not ripe.
Bergman’s Bourgogne: Nicolas Rossignol has a firm grip on Volnay and Pommard, the two villages just south of Beaune. There are few cellars in Burgundy where you can taste seven Volnay premier crus and eight Pommard premier crus. In addition to these there is also a handful of village wines from both villages. Instead of blending the small parcels and just label it Volnay premier cru Nicolas Rossignol prefers to bottle everything separately.
But Nicolas Rossignol's wine portfolio is not only about Volnay and Pommard. It is practically all red, but on top of all the Pommards and Volnays there are wines from Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton.
See also: Winemaker Dinner with Nicolas Rossignol, Domaine Rossignol in the Bourgogne, at La Bergerie in Alexandria, Virginia
Importer and Distributor: Elite Wines
In 2002, Laurent Michel Givry, a native of Toulouse, France and a veteran of the wine industry, started Elite Wines with small, eclectic, and yet good valued wines from France and Spain. Right from the beginning, he was very successful with his concept. Today, the portfolio includes a large number of French and Spanish wines as well as Australian, New Zealand, Argentine, Chilean, German and American wines.
Chef Driss and Evo Bistro
Evo Bistro is the place to taste and experience wine, while enjoying fabulous food in a relaxed atmosphere. Owner Chef Driss Zahidi offers French-Mediterranean-style cuisine with a vast selection of wines available by the glass or bottle.
The recent winemaker dinner with Christian Stahl from Germany that Annette Schiller organized also took place at Evo Bistro.
2018 Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours
We will not stop at Domaine Rossignol during this year's ombiasy tour to the Bourgogne, but Annette and Nicolas have agreed to include Domaine Rossignol in the 2018 Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours.
The Dinner
Reception
Crudités, Raw Vegetable Salad
Oeufs en Meurette, Quail's Egg Poached in Red Wine
Escargot Croquettes, Green Aioli
2014 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Bourgogne Rouge
First Course
Homard-Escargot Vol-au-Vent |
Puff Pastry filled with Lobster and Snails, Wild Mushrooms, Golden Potato, Cream Sauce
2013 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Savigny Les Beaune
The Wine Advocate: The 2013 Savigny-les-Beaune Village is actually a blend of all Nicolas Rossignol’s vineyards, both premier and village cru. It has a focused bouquet with floral black fruits and a touch of seaweed – quite complex and engaging already. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, a brisk line of acidity and a grippy and quite masculine finish. I think blending everything together was a good move.
Second Course
Caille Coq-au Vin
Quail Coq au Vin Style, Creamy Polenta, Chorizo, Jerusalem Artichokes
2013 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Beaune 1er Cru "Clos de Roy"
Le Figaro – Vin: Le célèbre Premier Cru Clos du Roi se situe à l'extrémité nord du vignoble de Beaune, à la lisière de Savigny-lès-Beaune. Son sol argilo-calcaire et son exposition parfaite, au sud autant qu'à l'est, en font un terroir de prédilection pour le pinot noir.
Nicolas Rossignol vendange à la main dans des petites cagettes de 8 kg pour ne pas abîmer les fruits avant un tri minutieux, une vinification traditionnelle et un élevage en fûts de chêne pouvant aller jusqu'à 20 mois pour bien exprimer la cuvée. Selon les millésimes, la proportion de bois neuf peut aller jusqu'à 50%.
Il en résulte un Premier Cru intense, puissant, riche et taillé pour des gardes supérieures à 10 ans.
Third Course
Coeur d'Entrecote de Boeuf
Petite Filet Mignon, Potato Gratin, Oyster Mushrooms, Peppercorn Sauce
2013 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Pommard "Les Vignots"
The Wine Advocate: The 2013 Pommard les Vignots, which lies next to Lalou Bize Leroy’s plot, includes 30% whole cluster since it was the only Pommard not damaged by hail. It has a sensual black cherry and cassis-scented bouquet: neat ‘n tidy. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity and a chewy but pure and economical finish. Easy-drinking Pommard, no more, no less.
Fourth Course
Boeuf Bourguignon
Black Angus Short Ribs, Brussels Sprouts, Pomme Robuchon "Creamy potatoes", Red Wine Sauce
2013 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Volnay, 1er Cru "Clos Des Angles"
Vinous - Antonio Galloni: Healthy medium red. Aromas of cherry, pepper and flowers. Soft, approachable red berry flavors are complicated by a saline quality and perked up by a peppery element. The dusty tannins will not stand in the way of drinking this wine young, with some time in a decanter. Rossignol says the 2011 is a better bet today and advises holding this for a year or two. -- Stephen Tanzer
Café Gourmand Petits Fours Coffee
Thanks ... and See You in Burgundy
Thanks Nicolas Rossignol, Chef Driss and Laurent Lala for an outstanding evening. I am looking forward to tasting these wines at Domaine Rossignol in the Bourgogne, where they come from.
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