Friday, January 10, 2020

Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé, with Owner and Winemaker Bérénice Lurton and Chef à Domicile Florence Camaly - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Pictures: Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé, with Owner and Winemaker Bérénice Lurton - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Following a visit of Château Gazin in Pomerol in the morning, we drove to Château Climens in Barsac-Sauternes for a vineyard tour, cellar tour and wine-pairing lunch with Owner/ Winemaker Bérénice Lurton.

Château Climens is an Appellation Barsac-Sauternes Première Grand Cru Classé Estate, owned and run by the charming Bérénice Lurton, who was our host. First, she took us to her vineyards. Bérénice works in the vineyard according to biodynamic principles and in 2011 Château Climens received the biodyvin certification. Then she showed us the facilities that are being used to prepare the products she needs for the treatment of the vineyars as well as the winemaking facilities including the barrel cellars.

By then it was time for lunch. We sat down with Bérénice in the dining quarters of Château Climens for an apperetif before moving to the table for a very nice wine-pairing lunch with Bérénice Lurton.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Climens

Château Climens was first mentioned in 1547. Since then only five families called Climens their home, with the Lurton family being the last owner when Lucien Lurton bought the estate in 1971 (The Lurtons are one of Bordeaux's great wine dynasties. With more than 2,500 acres in the region, they are collectively Bordeaux's largest holder of wine-producing land. The family members own more than 20 châteaux and manage several well-known properties.). In 1992 Bérénice Lurton, Lucien Lurton’s youngest daughter took over the reins at Château Climens. The estate sits on the highest point in the Barsac appellation – a bit north of Sauternes - and is surrounded by 75 acres of vineyard. The vineyard is entirely planted with Sémillion -unusual for a Sauternes- that gives the Climens wines its racy complexity and freshness. Bérénice works in the vineyard according to biodynamic principles and in 2011 Château Climens received the biodyvin certification.

Château Climens

The estate was founded in 1547 by Guirault Roborel. In 1855, in the year Château Climens was classified a Premier Cru, Henri Gounouilhou, owner of an influential Bordeaux daily newspaper, bought the property. He used his influence in the media to boost the public’s recognition of Château Climens. Additionallly, Henri Gounouilhou improved the quality of the Climens wines to such a degree that Château Climens for some years challenged Château d'Yquem as the top estate in Sauternes. The vintages 1929, 1947 and 1949 were described by Alexis Lichine to surpass Château d'Yquem as "lighter, with less vinosity and body, yet miraculously subtle."

In 1971, Lucien Lurton bought the estate, along with Château Doisy-Dubroca. It has been run by his daughter, Bérénice Lurton, since 1992. The Lurton family has done a wonderful job, continuing to improve on the already excellent quality reached under Gouonouilhou’s ownership. One specific step taken by the Lurton family was to remove all Muscadelle vines. Thus, today the 30 hectare estate is composed of 100% Semillon, unlike most Sauternes estates that incorporate a small portion of Sauvignon Blanc. There is one only vineyard and it is unchanged since growing of grapes started in the 16th century.

Château Climens also produces a second wine named Cypres de Climens. Château Climens is located in the south of the Barsac appellation, just outside the small village of La Pinesse.

Pictures: In the Vineyard of Château Climens with Bérénice Lurton

Winemaking

The poor limestone soil and damp morning weather is exactly how the estate got its name. When Climens is translated from the local dialect, it means unfertile, poor land.

The average age of the vines is 35 years. Yields are low, averaging 12 hectoliters per hectare. In some years the yield can drop as low as 8 hectoliters per hectare. This makes for an intensely aromatic and concentrated wine.

Pictures: In the Barrel Cellar of Château Climens with Bérénice Lurton

During the entire harvest period each day’s harvest is sent to the winery where it will be vinified separately. The fermentation is controlled at 27 degrees Celsius and will last between 15 and 21 days. Once the ideal level of alcohol is reached (13.5%), the wine receives a thermal shock, quickly dropping the temperature down to 3 degrees Celsius, which halts the fermentation. The wine is then sent to barrel where it will be aged in 30% new oak. After 22 months of aging, the tasting team will taste all the individual wines and decide on two separate blends. The first and superior blend will be destined for the first label, Château Climens. The second tier blend, although still high in quality, will be bottled as the second label, Cyprès de Climens. About 30,000 bottles of the first label are produced and between 10,000 and 15,000 bottles of the second label.

Noble Rot

At Château Climens the mornings are humid with fog and the afternoons are sunny. This provides the perfect conditions for the development of the botrytis cinerea. In order for all of the botrytised grapes to be harvested, the estate will conduct between 5 and 6 runs through the vineyard, each lasting 3 to 8 days, to ensure that only the botrytis infected grapes are picked.

Pictures: Noble Rot

Biodynamic

Château Climens is the first classified noble-sweet wine estate in Bordeaux to go biodynamic, with the assistance of Jean-Michel and Corinne Comme, who also consult for Château Pontet-Canet. Château Climens is aiming to be certified iodynamic in 2014.

Bérénice Lurton: “I believe passionately that biodynamics is the right way for us to go. We want to go back to our roots at Climens and help our wines find their own balance. Biodynamics brings life and vibrancy to the wines.”

Biodynamics can be difficult in the Bordeaux region. It is not the warmest area and there is a large amount of humidity from the Atlantic Ocean as well as the large rivers. So various vineyard problems have to be treated such as mildew and millederange.

Pictures: Drying Horsetail, Bracken, Bay Leaves and other Plants for Biodynamic Treatment

Wine-pairing Lunch with Bérénice Lurton

Aperitif

We sat down with Bérénice in the dining quarters of Château Climens for an aperitif. All the wines served during lunch including the aperitif were noble-sweet Château Climens wines.

Aperitif wine: 2016 Cyprès de Climens
Wine-searcher average price in US$:25

Bouchées Apéritives

Pictures: Aperitif

Lunch

Following the aperitif we moved to the dining room for lunch.

Pictures: Wine-pairing Lunch

The Menu

We had 3 courses and 3 wines, all Château Climens.


Saint-Jacques au Noir de Bigorre, copeaux de vieux parmesan
Oeuf cocotte revisité, au foie gras et aux champignons bruns

Château Climens 2012
Wine-searcher average price in US$: 81


Comme un wok: levure de porc à l'ail et au soja, sauté de courgettes et cocos de paimpol

Château Climens 2008
Wine-searcher average price in US$: 73


Gratin de fruits d'eté, rochers coco minute

Château Climens 2005
Wine-searcher average price in US$: 126


Café


Chef à Domicile Florence Camaly

Thanks Chef Florence Camaly for a wonderful lunch.

Pitures: Chef Florence Camaly and Bérénice Lurton

Bye-bye

Bye-bye Bérénice


Pictures: Bye-bye

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux – A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, with Daley Brennan, Business Development Manager, Eastern USA - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément (in 2013), Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Tour and Tasting at Château Canon-La-Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, with Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux

Tour and Tasting at Château Belles-Graves, Appellation Lalande de Pomerol, with Sylvain Garoste, Maître de Chai (Cellar Master) - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch at Restaurant La Table de Catusseau, Bib Gourmand in the Guide Michelin, in Pomerol - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with Technical Director Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Château Troplong-Mondot, Appellation Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé B - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and General Manager Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Gazin, Appellation Pomerol, with Owner Nicolas de Bailliencourts - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé, with Owner and Winemaker Bérénice Lurton and Chef à Domicile Florence Camaly - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Reynier, Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers, with Owners/ Winemakers Marc Lurton and Agnès Lurton

Lunch at Restaurant La Marina in Blaye

Tour and Tasting at Château Bel-Air La Royère, Appellation Blaye-Côtes de Bordeaux, with Owner/ Winemaker Corinne Loriaud

An Afternoon with Owner/Winemaker Corinne Chevrier-Loriaud at Chateau Bel Air La Royere in Blaye, Bordeaux, France

Tour and Tasting at Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm in Grand Piquey/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Blending Workshop at Château La Tour de Bessan, Appellation Margaux, Cru Bourgeois

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Blending Exercise at Château La Tour de Bessan, Margaux, Cru Bourgeois, with Owner/ Winemaker Marie-Laure Lurton - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France  

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafite-Rothschild, Appellation Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owners Basile Tesseron and Michel Tesseron

Tour and Tasting (from Barrel and Bottle) at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Grand Cru Classé St-Estèphe, with Owner Basile Tesseron - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2018, France

Tour and Lunch at Château Phélan-Ségur, with General Manager Véronique Dausse and Winemaker Fabrice Bacquey

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Technical Director Jean-René Matignon

Wine-Pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

Tour at Cooperage Berger & Fils with Simon Grelier, Managing Director

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc

Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Philippe Blanc, Managing Director

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Tour and Tasting at Château Durfort-Vivens, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Durfort-Vivens, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Winery Tour and Dinner at Château Bouscaut, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, with Owner Sophie Cogombles-Lurton and her Husband Laurent Cogombles 

No comments:

Post a Comment