Germany "From Berlin to Frankfurt" 2023 (Saale Unstrut, Sachsen, Franken, Württemberg) by ombiasy WineTours took place from Monday, June 19, 2023 to Thursday, June 29, 2023.
We spent our last night and had the last dinner at "Zum Alten Rentamt Gräflich von Neippergischer Gasthof und Hotel", which is part of the von Neipperg castle complex, which also includes the winery, Weingut Graf Neipperg. A "Rentamt" is the financial administration office of monarch, church or baron - here: of the von Neipperg family.
The von Neipperg family is an Austrian/ German noble line dating back to the Holy Roman Empire. Members of this dynasty always played important roles in European history and politics.
Established in the 12th century in Germany's northern Württemberg Valley, the von Neipperg earldom comprised some thirty villages and market towns, including Schwaigern, which remains the family seat to this day. The family has made wine in Germany since the 13th century, and viticulture has never stopped being a central part of their life. Karl Eugen Erbgraf von Neipperg is the current head of the von Neipperg family; he is also in charge of Weingut Graf Neipperg.
Today, the "Zum Alten Rentamt Gräflich von Neippergischer Gasthof und Hotel" is a restaurant and hotel, owned and run since 2004 by Sabine (service) and Christian (kitchen) Pilz.
We stayed a night there and had a wonderful dinner there, with von Neipperg wines, both from Germany and France.
This time, we did not visit Weingut Graf Neipperg, but have done this before. We also have visited several times Graf Stephan von Neipperg in St. Emilion at Château Canon La Gaffelière.
Von Neipperg Wines in Germany and France
Famous all over the world among red wine lovers is Count Stefan von
Neipperg in St. Emilion who runs (among others) Château Canon La
Gaffelière and La Mondotte, which were promoted to the extremely closed
circle of Premiers Grand Crus Classés in the new St. Emilion
classification a couple of years ago.
Not so well known is the fact that Count Stefan von Neipperg is
descendant of the German von Neipperg family in Württemberg. He grew up
in Schwaigern at the von Neipperg castle and Weingut Graf Neipperg.
Count Stefan’s older brother, Karl Eugen Erbgraf von Neipperg, the head
of the von Neipperg family, is in charge of Weingut Graf Neipperg.
Am schönsten Platz der Gemeinde Schwaigern, zwischen der historischen Stadtkirche und dem Rathaus, stehen Hotel und Restaurant. In dem denkmalgeschützten Fachwerkhaus erwartet unsere Gäste der Charme von gepflegter Gastlichkeit.
So individuell, wie die Namen der zwölf Zimmer ("Mädelekammer", "Zum Höfele guck" etc.) ist auch die Einrichtung. Alle Zimmer sind ausgestattet mit neuen Bädern, teils auch mit Antiquitäten. Ebenso selbstverständlich ist moderner Komfort wie TV und der kostenlose W-LAN-Zugang zum Internet.
Die Küche im Alten Rentamt ist traditionell - und doch immer wieder neu und anregend. Mit ihren hervorragenden Gerichten und erstklassigen süddeutschen Spezialitäten gehört sie zu den besten Häusern der Region. An sonnigen Tagen bietet die Terrasse einen romantischen Aufenthalt im Freien. Genießen Sie, alleine oder zu zweit.
Spezialitäten aus heimischer Küche und erlesene Tropfen aus den gräflichen Weinkellern
Stimme (2004): Früher", erzählt der inzwischen 83-jährige ehemalige Geschäftsführer des gräflichen Guts Jürgen Thurow, "früher ist die gesamte Hautevolee aus Heilbronn ins Alte Rentamt gekommen." Der Heilbronner Kulturring habe berühmte Schauspieler nach Schwaigern geholt oder Sänger. "Am Wochenende standen die Gäste vor der Tür und haben gewartet, bis wir aufmachen." Denn das Alte Rentamt habe nach dem Krieg gastronomisch "allein auf weiter Flur gestanden".
Geschichte und Geschichten wurden bei der feierlichen Neueröffnung des Schwaigerner Restaurants und Hotels lebendig. Die Pächterfamilie Pilz empfängt in dem Fachwerkgebäude aus dem 16. Jahrhundert, das so eng mit der Familie der Grafen von Neipperg verknüpft ist, ab sofort wieder Gäste.
Die Nachkriegsidee seines Vaters Josef-Hubert sei es ja eigentlich gewesen, eine Besenwirtschaft auf der Burg Neipperg zu eröffnen, so Hausbesitzer Erbgraf Karl-Eugen von Neipperg. Aber daraus sei nichts geworden. Stattdessen habe das Alte Rentamt vor 55 Jahren erstmals seine Türen geöffnet.
Seit die letzte Pächterin Heidi Schmeling sich dann vergangenen Sommer aufs Altenteil zurückgezogen hat, habe bei ihm des öfteren spät abends neben seinem Bett das Telefon geklingelt. Die Anrufer hätten ein Zimmer oder einen Tisch im Alten Rentamt reservieren wollen. Nicht nur für ihn selbst, sondern auch "für Schwaigern ist es wichtig, dass sich hier wieder etwas tut", so das Resumée des Grafen.
Nach Lehr- und Wanderjahren in der Gastronomie seien seine Frau Sabine und er "auf der Suche nach einem ruhenden Pol gewesen, um sich niederzulassen", so Pächter Christian Pilz. "Wir sind in Schwaigern von Anfang an mit offenen Armen empfangen worden und fühlen uns nicht als Fremde hier."
Ein Besuch im Alten Rentamt
Tripadvisor (2022): Ein Besuch im Alten Rentamt ist ein kulinarisches Highlight. Wenn man das historische Gebäude betritt, ahnt man noch nicht, welche innovative Küche sich hinter den alten Mauern verbirgt. Gekonnt und leidenschaftlich zaubert Christian Pilz in seiner Küche aufregende Kreationen auf den Teller und seinen Gästen ein zufriedenes Lächeln ins Gesicht. Seine Frau Sabine schmeißt charmant und umsichtig den Service und beweist viel Fingerspitzengefühl bei der Weinempfehlung. Nach einem rundum hervorragenden Abendessen und einem kurzweiligen Plausch mit den freundlichen Gastgebern ist es von Vorteil, wenn man die Option, direkt im historischen Hotel zu übernachten, nutzt. Der anschließende Tag beginnt mit einem ordentlichen Frühstück. Ein Abstecher nach Schweigern zu diesem Hort der Gastlichkeit lohnt sich in jedem Fall und zieht zurecht Gäste aus einem weiten Einzugsgebiet an. Lediglich bei der Einrichtung wünscht man sich den ein oder anderen modernen Akzent.
Weingut Graf Neipperg is in Schwaigern in Württemberg. Bernd Supp has been responsible for the winery since 1992.
The vineyards comprise 30 hectares of vines, a large part of it in the Neipperger Schlossberg and the Schwaigerner Ruthe. In terms of red grape varieties, Lemberger (30%) dominates; Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Trollinger are also planted. In terms of white grape varieties, Riesling (24%) dominates; Müller Thurgau, Muscatel and Traminer are also plated. About 40% of the vineyards are steep slopes, which are cultivated using the vertical terraces approach.
The Counts of Neipperg are said to have brought Lemberger to Germany in the 17th century. In any case, it was from here that the high-quality grape began its advance at the start of the 20th century. As a German red wine, it can effortlessly achieve the caliber of its international counterparts as a deep-colored, well-structured wine with powerful tannins.
Weingut Graf Neipperg’s focus is on traditional grape varieties of the region, vinified dry, and aged in one of the estate’s enormous casks in the castle cellar. The house also feels traditionally committed to the white specialties Muskateller and Traminer.
The von Neipperg Family in Germany, Austria and France
Proprietor Count Karl-Eugen zu Neipperg is a descendant of an Austrian / German noble line dating back to the Holy Roman Empire. Members of this dynasty always played important roles in European history and politics, and have been making wine since the 12th century.
The first record of the Count von Neipperg goes as far back as the 12th century.
Looking back, there are many major historical figures in the von Neipperg family.
Count Eberhard-Friedrich von Neipperg epitomises the family's devotion to both military pursuits and winemaking. Imperial Field Marshal at the Austrian court, he was famous for having defeated the Turks at Timisoara in 1667. He was also responsible for introducing the famous Austrian grape variety Blaufränkisch (Lemberger) at his vineyard estates. This variety continues to enjoy prominence in the family vineyards.
Adam-Adalbert von Neipperg, is undoubtedly the family's most famous ancestor. A legendary soldier, nicknamed "the German Bayard" by Madame de Staël, he is most often depicted with an eye patch hiding a wound received at the Battle of Doelen in 1794. A devoted enemy of Napoleon, he used his diplomatic talents to contribute to the emperor's downfall. In 1814, Franz II, Emperor of Austria, asked Adam-Adalbert to court Napoleon's wife, Marie-Louise. Adam-Adalbert married her shortly thereafter. Their marriage produced three children, which prompted Chateaubriand to say that Adam-Adalbert "had dared to lay his eggs in the eagle's nest".
The family tree of the present Counts von Neipperg goes back to Adam-Adalbert's first marriage to Countess Paula de Treviso. It was during this troubled time that the von Neipperg holdings were annexed by the Duke of Württemberg, who had been proclaimed king. The family nevertheless managed to hold on to some of their land. At this juncture, the von Neippergs devoted most of their energy to winegrowing, while continuing to be involved with their country's political affairs.
See also:
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany
The von Neippergs in France
Count Joseph Hubert von Neipperg branched out in 1971 and acquired 4 St. Emilion estates: La Mondotte, Château Canon-La Gaffelière, Clos de l'Oratoire, and Château Peyraud. Since 1984, Count Joseph Hubert’s son Count Stephan has been in charge of these 4 estates. Moreover, he expanded the family’s French holdings further and also entered into a joint venture in Bulgaria.
Stephan Graf von Neipperg was borne at the family estate in Schwaigern. As a young man, he had no intention of getting involved in wine. He studied politics and business administration in Paris. Later, after having decided to change course, he also studied winemaking in Montpelier.
Pictures: The Brothers Karl Eugen and Stephan, with his Wife Sigweis, and Annette Schiller at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf
In 1983, Stephan Graf von Neipperg Neipperg moved with his German wife
Sigweis to St. Emilion and at Château Canon La Gaffelière. At that
point, the French holdings of the von Neipperg family consisted of the
four estates his father had bought in 1971. Since then Stephan Graf von
Neipperg he expanded the family’s French holdings further and also
entered into a joint venture in Bulgaria. He has become one of the Right
Bank's most successful winemakers.
Wine-pairing Dinner at "Zum Alten Rentamt Gräflich von Neippergischer Gasthof und Hotel" (2023)
Germany "From Berlin to Frankfurt" 2023 (Saale Unstrut, Sachsen, Franken, Württemberg) by ombiasy WineTours (Released and Forthcoming Postings)
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