Wednesday, March 6, 2024

Fine de Claire, #3 Oysters from Cancale, the Oyster Capital of Brittany, and a 2022 Domaine Henry Pellé, Menetou-Salon, Saugnon-Blanc in Tours, Loire Valley, France (February 2024)





I am an oyster lover. I eat Virginia oysters on the half shell regulary, when they are available. Typically, I buy them at the local supernarket in a bag containing a dozen oysters for less than US$10, shuck them myself at home, put on a record from my extensive LP collection and eat them with a dry white wine from my cellar.



Occasionally, I eat oysters from the East Coast.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Oyster Guru Jon Rowley in Seattle tasting oysters and oyster wines: West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA
 
When in Europe, of course, I love to go to "une huîtrerie" when in Paris, but most of my oyster consumption is accounted for by oysters from the Bordeaux region. In fact, a visit of an oyster producer is part of the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours and I have written a piece about my favorite oyster/ seafood places in Bordeaux.
 
 
Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller at L' Embarcadere with a Plateau des Fruits de Mer (for 2). See: Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France 
 
This time, exploring the Loire Valley for the forthcoming Loire Tour by ombiasy WineTours, I had Fine de Claire, #3 Oysters from Cancale, the Oyster capital of Brittany, and a 2022 Domaine Henry Pellé, Menetou-Salon, Saugnon-Blanc.
 
See: Announcement: Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours (Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024)
 
Oyster Producers in the World

With an annual production of 5 million tonnes, China is by far the largest producer of oysters in the world, accounting for 85 percent of world output. The following 5 countries combined produce just 0.5 million tonnes: Korea (300.000), Japan (150.000), USA (150.000), France (75.000), Philippines (40.000).

Just 50.000 tonnes of oyster production are internationally traded. This is due to the very nature of oyster, which are highly perishable and potentially risky for human health if not properly handled.  

France

With over 2,000 miles of coastline, France is the largest producer of oysters in Europe. In France, the oyster has been beloved by kings and peasants for thousands of years and today, the French continue to love these salty and briny treats from the sea. At bistros and brasseries around the country, you’ll find raw oysters on the menu–and many believe French oysters to be the best in the world.  

In France, on both the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts, oysters are grown in marshes and estuaries. Oysters thrive in saltwater and brackish water where changing tides help the mollusks grow strong shells. Many of France’s oysters come from shallow bays or lagoons.  

In France, there are two kinds of oysters grown. The Belon is a native variety that used to dominate output but now makes up only about 1-2% of the oyster industry in France. Oyster production in France - as everywhere else in the world - is dominated today by the Pacific oyster.  

Grade is important to the French when it comes to oysters. There are three rankings, according to maturity, and therefore meatiness: starting with Fine de Claire, progressing to Spéciale de Claire, and culminating with the much esteemed Pousse en Claire.

Size is the other important component to consider. In France, oysters are costed by weight, and the number assigned to an oyster indicates its size. Oysters are numbered between 1 and 5; the higher the figure, the smaller the oysters. No.3 is the most common size of oyster to appear on a restaurant menu.

While oysters are farmed throughout France, Normandy and Brittany are especially known for oysters, with the city of Cancale (near Mont St. Michel) dubbed “The Oyster Capital of Brittany.”  There are numerous French regions famed for their particular oysters. Normandy produces the much-loved pulpy Isigny oyster, the nutty Saint-Vaast and the sweet Utah Beach. Brittany is celebrated for its firm and salty Cancale, its bracing Belon, and its plump and juicy Paimpol. Also look out for oysters from Arcachon Bay, which are originally wild, and oysters from the central west coast hubs of Île de Ré and Marennes-Oléron.

A French oyster eatery is called une huîtrerie. (It’s quite a mouthful to say, but once you get the hang of it, the word rolls all around the mouth like the juiciest of molluscs.) A huîtrerie serves its oysters freshly shucked — sometimes done so right in front of you — and its menu of options can at first be mind-boggling.

Cancale

Cancale, across the bay from Mont St-Michel, dubbed the "Oyster Capital of Brittany”, is home to 2.8 square miles of oyster beds ( 7.3 square kilometers) which harvest 25,000 tons of oysters each year. The large production is attributed to the high quality of plankton in Mont Saint-Michel Bay.

Some 30-40 companies produce oysters in the bay. Total production in the bay amounts to 5,000 tonnes of Pacific oysters and 1,000 tonnes of Belon oysters.

Fine de Claire

A Fine de Claire is an oyster that has undergone its last “affinage” in the 'claires'. These claires, which are connected to the open sea, are shallow closable ponds in the past used mainly for the production of salt. The taste has a higher liquid content and a delicate salty taste. The treatment gives them a less salty and iodic taste than if they come straight from the sea, and earns them the “fine” label, recognised by the EU’s protected geographical indication (PGI) category.

Les Parcs Saint Kerber and Tsaskaya Oysters
 
The oysters we had were from the producer "Les Parcs Saint Kleber", sold under the Tsarskaya name. Apparently, the Tsars of Russia were avid consumers of Cancale oysters, and it was in honour of this fact that in 2004 the “Tsarskaya” oyster was born.

Les Parcs Saint Kleber: Oyster Tsarskaya from Saint Kerber are beautiful oysters that have been aged between 3 and 6 months. The name of the oysters are in tribute to the Russian czars that first introduced this delicacy in Brittany and as such, are farmed exclusively in Cancale. Upon contact on the palate, one will notice how briny the oysters are. Strong notes of the sea and sea mists are observed. Upon chewing the flesh, a pleasant and refreshing sweetness is released contrasting the strong saltiness of the oyster.

Tsarskaya Oysters



 
Fine de Claire, #3 Oysters from Cancale



 
2022 Domaine Henry Pellé, Menetou-Salon, Saugnon-Blanc
 

Domaine Pellé

Our Domaine takes its roots in Morogues, a village at the far eastern end of the Loire Valley. Our cellars are close to the village centre, nestling below our beautiful “Les Cris” red grape vineyard. In each of our vineyard plots in the neighbouring Menetou-salon and Sancerre appellations, we observe Mother Nature, cherishing and working with her so that she gives us her very best in return. In this part of the world, we think, make and drink wine; sharing ideas, a glass of wine or two, and the taste of our land, with our friends and customers. These lines are written by the current generation but they apply to Domaine Pellé from its very beginning. Over time, the world has accelerated but nature has stayed faithful, determining the work of the winemaker, year after year, with each new season. With the same devotion to his craft, the winemaker still slips through the cellar door late at night to check on the wines, only now he is wearing sneakers not clogs!

  • Appellation: Menetou-Salon
  • Owner: Paul-Henry & Anne Pellé
  • Winemaker: Paul-Henry Pellé
  • Varieties Grown: Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir
  • Age of Vines: 42 hectares. Age of vines: 20-60 years old.
  • Altitude: 300-350 meters above sea level. Clay-limestone soils, more precisely Kimmeridgian marls
  • Farming Methods: Organic conversion Biodynamic




 
Fine de Claire, #3 Oysters from Cancale, the Oyster capital of Brittany, and a 2022 Domaine Henry Pellé, Menetou-Salon, Saugnon-Blanc




 
Les Halles de Tours 

Oliver`s Travels: The Loire Valley is a fertile powerhouse, producing large quantities of wheat and vegetables, as well as other gastronomic goods such as cheese and perhaps most importantly, wine. If you plan on getting some use out of your villa’s kitchen, you’ll need to stock the pantry with provisions. Do you shop at this large food market in Tours. Meat, seafood, freshly baked bread, plump fruit, potent cheeses, aromatic spices… this market stocks everything you need to put your newfound French cooking skills to use.






Tours 
 





LOIRE VALLEY: Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024 
 
Annette Schiller: What comes to your mind when you hear ‘Loire Valley’? Of course images of glorious Châteaux pop up in your mind. Yes that is true and we will visit some iconic château and dig deep into France’s history. However, during this wine tour we also discover a magnificent, but often overlooked French wine region and one of the most exciting best kept secrets of excellent, high quality wines at very reasonable prices. The Loire Valley wine region is a vast area and consists of several distinct wine regions, each with its own characteristic grapes, appellations, and wine style. We take you on a journey from the Atlantic Ocean to the Auvergne mountains to explore this unique region. We learn to appreciate “Sancerre”, "Pouilly-Fumé", “Vouvray", “Chinon”, as well as many other not so familiar appellations.

See: Announcement: Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours (Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024) 









  
   

 
Postings on Schiller-wine Related to the Upcoming 2024 Loire Trip by ombiasy WineTours
 
This is the 10th in a series of postings on Schiller-wine related to the 2024 Loire Valley Trip by ombiasy WineTours in June.
 
A Journey Through The Loire Valley - Seminar at the 2023 American Wine Society National Conference in St. Louis/ Missouri/ USA led by Annette Schiller

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie at Historic Brasserie Cigale in Nantes, Loire Valley, France (February 2024)
 
Announcement: Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours (Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024)
 
Salons des Vins - all with a Focus on Natural, Organic, Biodynamic and Low-intervention Producers in the Loire Valley and elsewhere in France and Europe - in February in Angers and Samour, Loire Valley, France (February 2024)
 
 
Announcement: "The Wines of the Loire Valley" presented by Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society/ Northern Virginia Chapter on March 8, 2024
 
Visiting Natural Wine Producer Liv Vincendeau - Domäne Vincendeau in Rochefort sur Loire/ Anjou (February 2024) 
 
 
 
Moon - Monks - Michelin: Overnight stay and 1-star Michelin Dinner at the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud, with Chef Thibaut Ruggeri (February 2024)

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