Saturday, August 10, 2024

Visit of Château de Chambord: "An Epitome of what Human Art can Produce" said Charles V. (Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire of German Nations) - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours









2024 Loire by ombiasy Wine Tours, led by Annette Schiller, took place from Sunday, June 9 to Thursday June 20, 2024. The tour started in Nantes and ended in Sancerre.
 
We spent an whole afternoon at Château de Chambord, including a horse and prey show. The vast area of Château de Chambord also includes a winery and vineyards. This time, we did not visit the winery and did not taste the wines of Château de Chambord, but Annette and I did it on our pre-tour trip and I wrote about it here:  
 
Château de Chambord - Not only a Famous Loire Palace, but also an AOC Cheverny Wine Producer

Château de Chambord

Château Chambord was built by François I. in the 16 th century. It is the largest and most known Loire Château and also the most unusual one. With its 400 rooms, it never served as a residential palace, but rather as an impressive backdrop for State Visits. 

Charles V., Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire of German Nations, commented after a stay: “an
epitome of what human art can produce.”

Lonely Planet

If you only have time to visit one château in the Loire, you might as well make it the grandest – and Chambord is the most lavish of them all, and the most visited. It’s a showpiece of Renaissance architecture, from the double-helix staircase up to the turret-covered rooftop. With 426 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and 77 staircases the sheer scale of the place is mindboggling – and in the Loire, that’s really saying something.

Begun in 1519 by François I (r 1515–47) as a weekend hunting retreat, it quickly grew into one of the most ambitious – and expensive – building projects ever undertaken by a French monarch.

Construction was repeatedly halted by financial problems, design setbacks and military commitments (not to mention the kidnapping of the king’s two sons in Spain). Ironically, when Chambord was finally finished after three decades of work, François found his elaborate palace too draughty, preferring instead the royal apartments in Amboise and Blois. In the end he stayed here for just 72 days during his entire 32-year reign. A French-style formal garden opened in 2017.

Château de Chambord
Francethisway.com

Château de Chambord is the largest of the Loire castles and also the most visited. The chateau is situated in the eastern part of the Loire Valley, a short distance east of Blois.

Originally built as a 'hunting lodge' for King Francois I - his 'main' royal palaces can be seen at the Château d'Amboise and the Château de Blois - Chambord is a magnificent sight both when viewed from outside and when enjoying a tour of the opulent interiors. The castle was designed and built to excel, and it does that grandly: even the Loire River is said to have been diverted to make a bit more space for its construction!

Château de Chambord was built in the first half of the 16th century, in what is known as the 'French renaissance' style. It has a central structure, with large towers on each corner and a mulitude of smaller towers and structures, which itself forms part of a larger structure - a second square that incorporates the main chateau, two further substantial corner towers, and a large enclosed courtyard.

This layout suggests that the castle follows a medieval defensive structure - which it does broadly - but Chambord never played, or was intended to play, any kind of defensive role.

The castle at Chambord was built as a hunting lodge, although after spending more than two decades having the castle built, Francois I himself only actually spent seven weeks in the castle, when he was hunting in the region. A King's hunting party consisted of around 2000 people, making the logistics of a visit very complicated. Since the castle was more or less unused, it also remained unfurnished and of course unheated at that time.

The roofline of Château de Chambord has numerous turrets that give it its distinctive 'skyline': these are the tops of the staircases and chimneys inside the chateau. The central round tower is the cupola for the immense double helix staircase, the design of which is sometimes attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, and is very impressive. Apparently Francois I required a roof that reminded him of Constantinople!

After the death of Francois I in 1547 the castle remained in a state of abandon for almost 100 years, at which point Gaston d'Orleans was given the castle by his brother, King Louis XIII. He started major renovation works, which were subsequently carried on by King Louis XIV who also had the immense stables built, sufficient to house the several hundred horses that were needed for a royal hunting trip.

Despite all this work and expense, Louis XIV (the Sun King) also abandoned the castle after a few years, from 1685.

Chambord castle had a couple more periods of occupation over the following century, both relatively brief, and by 1750 it was once again in a state of abandon. While the revolution spared the structure it did result in the furnishings that had been added during the renovation works to be sold, and the castle remained empty until the early 19th century.

A French miltary leader was then given the property by Napoleon - he died soon after and his widow sold the castle to the Duke of Bordeaux, who soon after got exiled from France. Another forty years on and Chambord was pressed into service as a hospital during the 1871 Franco-Prussian war. Yet again the decades that followed led to the castle changing hands on occasion, and being occupied for some periods.

In the middle of the 20th century the castle passed into government ownership and was subsequently renovated: when you visit and see the extraordinary size and grandeur of the structure it is remarkable to remember that Chambord has stood empty for the large majority of the last 550 years.

In recent decades a great deal of work has been carried out on the castle, now under the control of the French State, and it is now a major tourist attraction in the region. Apart from the splendours of the building itself you can also admire a fine collection of furnishings, works of art and tapestries, and a small interesting collection of horse-drawn carriages.

Arriving


Château de Chambord

















Horse and Prey Show





Château de Chambord - Not only a Famous Loire Palace, but also an AOC Cheverny Wine Producer

François I began with the construction of the château in 1519. That same year, a royal decree shows that he brought 80,000 vines from Beaune in Burgundy to be planted in the Loire Valley.  

Until 1950s, a dozen farms operated on the estate. But there was no winery. This has changed recently, with the creation of a 40 acres vineyard and the convertion of the Ormetrou farm in a winery.

In June 2015, the National Estate of Chambord replanted the "François I Vineyard”, 500 years after its introduction in Val de Loire. The grape varieties chosen were those from the region of Romorantin, in memory of François I, who brought the fruit of the vine to Val de Loire in 1519. Plantation entailed two phases: While 15 acres were planted in June 2015 (5 acres of pre-phylloxera Romorantin and 10 acres of Pinot Noir), 20 acres were added in 2016 and 2017 (pre-phylloxera Romorantin plants, Gamay and Pinot blanc).

The first Chambord harvest took place in September 2018, covering four hectares. Seventy-five hectoliters of the pinot noir gamay blend and twenty-six hectoliters of the Romorantinvariety were harvested at that time. The first bottles were sold in March 2019, for the 500-year vintage.

The Chambord winery is located in the old buildings of the Ormetrou farm, near the vineyards. The buildings, made up of two barns, one dating from the 17th century, and the other from the early 19th century, were renovated to accommodate 14 stainless steel vats and some oak barrels from Chambord’s forest.

The rehabilitation was completed the first trimester of 2022, after one year. A tasting room had been set up in the former dwelling house, with a magnificent view of the château.

The wines being produced now are:

• a red wine, a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay (about 84% Pinot Noir and 16% Gamay, in accordance with the “AOC Cheverny” specifications),

• a white wine made from the Orbois variety blended with the Sauvignon variety (about 60% Sauvignon and 40% Orbois, in accordance with the “AOC Cheverny” specifications),

• a white wine made from a single historical grape variety called Romorantin.

The Marionnet family, owner of Domaine de la Charmoise and experts for ungrafted vines, is involved in the restoration project of the Chamord vineyards. The Marionnet family has owned the Domaine de la Charmoise since 1850. The winery is nestled in the Loire Valley, more precisely in the village of Soings, 30 km south of Blois, and 25 km south from the beautiful Château de Chambord. Henry and his son Jean Sebastien craft unique wines from ungrafted varietals. They own the oldest single vineyard in France: a 180 years old pre-phyloxera Romorantin plot from which the Cuvée Provignage Vin de France is made from.
 








When Annette and I visited the Salons des Vins in Angers earlier this year, we run into the winemaker of Château de Chambord and tasted the Château de Chambord wines. Then at Château de Chambord, we also went to the vineyard and the winery.  

See: Salons des Vins - all with a Focus on Natural, Organic, Biodynamic and Low-intervention Producers in the Loire Valley and elsewhere in France and Europe - in February in Angers and Samour, Loire Valley, France (February 2024)



Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours: Already Released and Forthcoming Postings
 
Announcement: Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours (Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024)
 
Stopover in Frankfurt: 3 Nights at Zur Mainlust Desche Otto in Frankfurt/ Schwanheim - From Washington DC (USA) to Nantes (France) for 2024 Loire by ombiasy WineTours, led by Annette Schiller
 
Pitstop at Le Petit Sommelier, Standard (10.5/ 20 Gault&Millau) Food and Worldclass Wine List, Just Opposite of Gare Monteparnasse in Paris - From Washington DC (USA) to Nantes (France) for 2024 Loire by ombiasy WineTours, led by Annette Schiller    

Dinner at L'Océanide (Bib Gourmand Michelin) in Nantes - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at L'Instinct Gourmand in Nantes, with Owner/ Chef Sylvain le Bras - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Tour of Old Town Nantes - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Iconic Brasserie La Cigale in Nantes - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour, Tasting and Light Lunch at Vignobles Günther Chéreau, Château du Coing, in Saint Fiacre-sur-Maine, with Owner Véronique Günther-Chéreau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Two Domaines under one Roof: Visit at Domaine Gadais Père et Fils and Domaine de la Combe/ Pierre-Henri Gadais in Saint Fiacre-sur-Maine, Muscadet Sévre et Maine, Pays Nantais, with Owner/ Winemaker Christoph Gadais - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Les Petits Près of Chef Samuel Albert (Top Chef France 2019) in Angers - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Château d’Épiré, AOP Savennières, Anjou, with Owner/ Winemaker Paul Bizard - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Barrel Tasting and Salon Tasting at Château des Vaults, Domaine du Closel in Savennière, Anjou, with Owner/ winemaker Evelyne de Pontbriand - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

 
Guided Visit of Château Angers and the Apocalypse Tapestry (UNESCO) - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
 

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domäne Vincendeau in Rochefort-sur-Loire, Anjou, with Owner/ Winemaker Liv Vincendeau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with a Light Lunch at Domaine de la Soucherie in Beaulieu-sur-Layon, Anjou - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant L’Essentiel, Michelin-listed and Nestled at the Foot of Saumur’s Fairy-tale Castle - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Visit at the UNESCO-classified L’ Abbey Royale de Fontevraud in Fontevraud - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch in the Courtyard of Saumur's Fairy-tale Castle Château de Saumur - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting, Cellar Tour and Vineyard Tour at Domaine des Roches Neuves in Varrains, Anjou, with Next Generation Owner/ Winemaker Louis Germain and Agathe Germain - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Maison Bouvet-Ladubay in Saumur, with Owner Juliette Monmousseau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Cave M. Plouzeau in Chinon, Touraine, with Owner/ Winemaker Marc Plouzeau his Château de la Bonneliére Wines - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

At Domaine Bouchardière in Cravant les Côteaux, Touraine: Tasting the Wines of Domaine Bouchardière and Domaine de la Haut Olive, Cravant les Coteaux, Chinon and Panzoult, Touraine - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Menu du Jour Lunch at Bar-Restaurant Le Bistrot du Marché of Hotel Le Lion d'Or in the Center of Chinon - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine François Cazin, Le Petit Chambord, in Cheverney, Touraine, with François Cazin - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

3-course "Bistronomique" Dinner at Restaurant Brut Maison de Cuisine in Blois, with Owner/ Chef Adrien Delafoy - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Brazilier in Thoré-la-Rochette, Côteaux Vendômois, Touraine, with Owner/ Winemaker Benoît Brazilier - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

3-course Lunch at Le Moulin du Loir in Vendôme - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit of Château de Chambord: "An Epitome of what Human Art can Produce" - Charles V. (Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire of German Nations) - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Tour of Château Royal de Blois - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Sunday Lunch at Restaurant La Croix Blanche (Bib Gourmand Michelin), with Owner/ Chef Jean-François Beauduin - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Visit of Château du Clos Lucé and the Leonardo-da-Vinci Park in Amboise - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner, Overnight-stay and Breakfast at Château de Pray in Amboise - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours.

Visit at Denis Meunier in Vernou-sur-Brenne, Touraine - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit at Domaine des Aubuisières, Bernard Fouquet, in Vouvray, Touraine - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Visit of Château Chenonceau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner and Overnight-stay at Auberge du Bon Laboureur in Chenonceau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Pellé in Morogues, Menetou-Salon, with the Export Manager Pauline Guillot - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Fluteau in Morogues - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Extensive Tasting at at Domaine Alphons Mellot in Sancerre, with Alphons Mellot - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine de Vrillères, SCEA in Sury-en-Vaux, Sancerre, with Kevin Lauverjat - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Tinel-Blondelet in Pouilly-sur-Loire, with Marlène and Annick Tinel - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours 

Lunch at Restaurant/ Affineur Romain Dubois in Chavignol, with Gilles Dubois - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Henri Bourgeois in Chavignol - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Wine-pairing Dinner at Le Clos du Maréchal with the Wines of Vignobles Berthier, with the Owner/ Winemaker Clément Berthier and the Chef/ Owner Nathanael Fromant - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Last Meal of the Tour: At La Coupole in Paris - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

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