Monday, January 13, 2025

Focus on "Natural Wine": Meeting Alice Feiring at Le Moderne Wine Bar of Romane Vallon in Toulon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours



     
     



Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours led by Annette Schiller took place from October 13 - October 23. The tour started in Lyon and ended in Châteauneuf-du-Pap/ Avignon. There were 8 of us including Annette and me. 

The Rhône Valley is one of the oldest wine regions in France, and the second largest after Bordeaux. The Greeks introduced viticulture in the 4th century BC. Later the Romans came and brought viticulture to a different level. Since then the world has discovered Rhône wines and some of the most famous wines come from the Rhône Valley. The vineyards are located on both sides of the river. The Rhône Valley is divided into two distinctively different regions: the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône. 
 
For an overview see: Overview: Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours led by Annette Schiller - Facebook Day-by-day Postings

We had a quite busy day:

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Caveau Ferraton Père & Fils in Tain L’Heremitage, with Jerome Nuss - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Yves Cuilleron in Chavanay, Northern Rhône, with Thibaut Jager - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Next to Maison Guigal: Lunch at Le Bistro de Serine in Ampuis - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour at Maison Guigal and Guigal Tasting at Château d’Ampuis, with Kim Conley - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Back in Tain L'Hermitage in the evening, Annette and I went to Toulon on the other side of the Rhône river and discovered Le Moderne, a wine bar focusing on "natural wines" opened by @Romane Vallon and her husband Cyprien de Lageneste recently. 

There we bumped into Alice Feiring, the famous American "natural wine" journalist, book author and facebook friend of mine. Her most recent book is "To Fall In Love, Drink This: A Wine Writer's Memoir" (2022, Simon and Schuster).

Le Moderne/ Le fooding.com

A wine bar? A cave à manger? A café? Romane Vallon and Cyprien de Lageneste decided not to choose when they took over Le Moderne, a relic from the 1970s on the village rambla of Tournon-sur-Rhône. From the first espressos at eight o’clock in the morning, to late-afternoon glasses of pastis, not to mention the half-pints of beer at noon, they’ve really got it all! But the true passion of these wine-loving wanderers remains popping open bottles: she wears a oenologist’s hat, and he vinifies natural grapes under the Vindiou label. Feel like raising a glass on the terrace? There are local wines that won’t hurt your wallet (Le Murmure de l’Eau, a white blend from Ardèche winemaker Étienne Seignovert at €4 a glass, a Crozes wine from the owner at €35 a bottle), sharp choices from a little further away (a Fleurie produced by Guy Breton at €38, an Arbois white from Stéphane Tissot at €42), and if you’re in the mood to spend some big bucks, a few carefully-chosen nectars (a 2019 Greffieux-Bessards Crozes Hermitage produced by Bernard Faurie for €97, an extremely rare Saint-Joseph from Pierre Gonon at €76). And to go with all those libations, they offer up a beautiful array of tapas: locally raised, free-range pulled pork, classic pâté en croûte with pistachios, Saone River trout gravlax paired with marinated zucchini, bellota ham cured for 48 months, and a classic cheesecake to round things out (plates ranging from €4.50 to €14). // Adrien Nouviaire 

Vindiou: Cyprien De Lageneste & Thomas Junique

Vindiou are the two friends Thomas and Cyprien, who met while winemaking and learning in the Bordeaux. After that they traveled the world together and one wish kept running through their minds, making wine together, local wines from small plots of land, hidden treasures... with minimal intervention. They were lucky enough to use Thomas' grandparents' barn for this purpose and even more fortunate that this barn is located in the north of the Rhone valley. All wines are whole bunch fermented, foot-stamped, hand-pressed and fermented with our own yeasts. Then matured in 2 to 4 year old Burgundy barrels and stainless steel

Alice Feiring/ Punch

I really didn’t think anyone would listen, but I had to write about it,” says Alice Feiring, the author of a 2001 exposé printed in The New York Times that uncovered the widespread practice of employing additives in wine-making. “I guess I was more of a whistleblower than a writer.”

Since that landmark article published nearly two decades ago, Feiring’s wine writing has only continued to garner attention through her contributions to magazines like Time and World of Fine Wine, the launch of a bimonthly natural wine-focused newsletter, The Feiring Line, and seven books she’s authored on the topic. “I didn’t just have opinions, I had something to say,” she states.

But growing an audience for natural wine writing wasn’t always a guarantee. In 2001, she pitched a guide to the growing movement, only be told the subject was “too fringe and never going to happen,” she recalled recently in a phone conversation. Times certainly have changed, however, and last week saw the release of Natural Wine for the People, published by Ten Speed Press, which covers everything from Feiring’s eight tenets of great wine to must-know producers and regions.

Beyond offering a comprehensive handbook to the evolving natural wine frenzy, Feiring hopes her latest book will engender a degree of tolerance between hardline supporters and critics (i.e. pro-sulfur additives) of the craft. “It’s super important to remember that this was never a dogmatic movement. It’s an aspiration, an ideal,” she explains. “Natural wine is not a style of wine—that’s like saying it’s no different than Napa Valley Cabernet. It’s a process and a philosophy. It comes in all shapes, sizes and weights—not all of it is cloudy and fizzy. And it doesn’t all taste like apple cider vinegar, either.”

Alice Feiring/ wikipedia

Alice Feiring is an American journalist and author, for several years a wine and travel columnist for Time magazine,[1] and known as an advocate for "natural wine".[2]

In addition to contributions to publications such as The New York Times,[3] New York Magazine, San Francisco Chronicle, LA Times, Condé Nast Traveler and Forbes Traveler, her blog "The Feiring Line" (formerly: "Veritas in Vino")[4] is considered one of the best in its specific category,[5] and her voice described by Mike Steinberger as part of a new wave of "real flowering of high-quality wine journalism". In 2011, Feiring was selected as "Online Communicator of the Year" by the Louis Roederer International Wine Writer Awards.[6] On Sept. 30, 2020, Feiring was named a Knight of the French Order of Agricultural Merit.[7]

Her first book, published in May 2008,[8] The Battle for Wine and Love: Or How I Saved the World from Parkerization, described as "an opinionated look at the fight to preserve authenticity and diversity in wine", due to its perceived "declaration of war" against critic Robert Parker found some controversy well before its date of release.[9] Reviewing the book, Eric Asimov later wrote, "Ms. Feiring is an uncompromising judge of wine and people who can no more stomach a lover’s preference for a wine she abhors than she can the presence of a microwave in her kitchen."[10] Feiring's critical statements against California wine as "overblown, over-alcoholed, over-oaked, overpriced and over-manipulated"[11] have also sparked controversy.[12][13][14]

In 2011, Feiring published Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally.[15] Her 2016 book For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey Through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture,[16] explores the wine of Georgia.[17] In 2017, Feiring published The Dirty Guide to Wine: Following Flavor from Ground to Glass.[18][19] She also wrote Natural Wine For The People: What It Is, Where to Find It, How to Love It released in August 2019.[20] Her most recent book is "To Fall In Love, Drink This: A Wine Writer's Memoir" (2022, Simon and Schuster).

Walking over to Tournon-sur-Rhône


 
Le Moderne





           

        




 
Vindiou
 
      
       

 
Alice Feiring
 





 
Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours - Postings on schiller-wine (Published and Forthcoming):
 

Arriving in Lyon: Saucisson Sec, Saint-Marcellin Cheese and a Bottle of Rhône Rouge at Le Broc'Bar for Dinner - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Sunday Morning Stroll on the St. Antoine Market on the Banks of the Soane River Market in Lyon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Meet&Greet (+ Introduction to the Rhône Valley Region) at Grand Hôtel des Terreaux in Lyon and Guided Sightseeing Tour of Lyon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

"Menu Tradition" at Grand Café des Négociants - Created in 1864 - in Lyon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

At the Foot of the Hermitage Hill and Tasting at Maison M. Chapoutier in Tain l’Hermitage - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch with a View of the Hermitage Hill at Brasserie Route N7 in Tain l’Hermitage - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Quick Stop at Valrhona, the Famous Chocolate Producer, in Tain l’Hermitage - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet, Croze-Hermitage, with Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

3-course Dinner at Restaurant Le Quai in Tain L’Hermitage - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Caveau Ferraton Père & Fils in Tain L’Heremitage, with Jerome Nuss - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Yves Cuilleron in Chavanay, Northern Rhône, with Thibaut Jager - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Next to Maison Guigal: Lunch at Le Bistro de Serine in Ampuis - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour at Maison Guigal and Guigal Tasting at Château d’Ampuis, with Kim Conley - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Focus on "Natural Wine": Meeting Alice Feiring at Le Moderne Wine Bar of Romane Vallon in Toulon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting in the Cellar at Cave Sébastien Blachon in Saint-Jean de Muzols, Northern Rhône, with Sébastien Blachon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting from Barrel and from Bottle at Domaine Alain Graillot in Pont-de-l’Isère, Northern Rhône, with Maxime Graillot - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

High-end Wine Pairing Lunch at La Grand Table Maison Chabran, with Chef Louis Chabran and Legend Michel Chabran - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

High-end Tasting at Paul Jaboulet Aîné in Tain-l’Hermitage, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Alary in Cairanne, Southern Rhône, with Jean Etienne Alary and Senior Boss Denis Alary - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours 

Tasting at Domaine Chaume-Arnaud in Vinsobres, Southern Rhône, with Valérie Chaume-Arnaud and Virginia Fréguin - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Le Mesclun in Séguret, with Artist Chef Christophe Bonzi - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Domaine Saint Gayan in Gigondas, Southern Rhône, with Owner/ Winemaker Christian-Yves Carré de Lusançay - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Domaine de Cabasse, Séguret - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine des Pasquiers in Sablet, Southern Rhône, with Jean Claude, Philippe and Perrin Lambert - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting in the Front-yard at Domaine La Ligière in Beaumes-de-Venise - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

3-course Lunch at Restaurant Auberge Saint Roch in Beaumes-de-Venise, with the Husband and Wife Team Johann and Isabelle from Corsica - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting in the Cellar at Domaine La Martinelle in Lafare, Ventoux, with Owner/ Winemaker Corinne Faravel - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Charcuterie and Cheese Dinner with Rosé Wines at Hôtel Le Mas de l’Oulivié, Les Baux de Provence - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Olive Trees Tour, Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Mas de Gourgonnier in Mouriès, Alpilles, with Owner/ Winemaker Eve Cartier - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

3-course Lunch at Le Mas Teulière in Maussane-les-Alpilles - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Van Gogh and the Romans: Sightseeing in Arles - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch with a View at Restaurant Les Terrasses at the Pont du Gard - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Avignon - Town of the Popes: Guided Tour of the Palace of the Popes and of Pont Saint-Bénézet - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Light Dinner in Avignon at the Palace of the Popes - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine du Pègau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Owner/ Winemaker Laurence Féraud and Winemaker Andreas Lenzenwöger (from Austria) - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Vignobles Alain Jaume, Domaine Grand Veneur in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Hélène Jaume and Chef Axel Thomas - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Berthet-Rayne in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Owner/ Winemaker Laure Berthet-Rayne (Laure Capeau) - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours 

Light Dinner in the old part of Avignon near "Les Halles", the Central Food Market - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Bottleing and Tasting at Château de Ségriès in Lirac, with Owner/ Winemaker Henri de Lanzac - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting Château de Beaucastel Wines at Boutique Famille Perrin in the Village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at La Mule du Pape in the Center of  Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Château Gigognan in Sorgues, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Head Winemaker Jenna Le Lay - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Michelin-star level Wine-pairing Dinner at Hôtellerie du Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Chef Hugo Loridan-Fombonnet - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

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