Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines (2013)

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Count Stefan von Neipperg, #2 on the Wine Spectator Top 100 List 2013, in St. Emilion at Château Canon La Gaffelière in September 2013

Each year, Wine Spectator editors survey the wines reviewed over the previous 12 months and select the Top 100 wines, based “on quality, value, availability and excitement”. Here is this year’s list. The 3 numbers below each wine are the vintage, rating and price in US dollars. Whatever you think about the list, one thing is sure, it moves the market.

1 Cune Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva
2004 95 $63
2 Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion
2010 96 $103

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Count Stefan von Neipperg  at Château Canon La Gaffelière in St. Emilion

See:
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany
A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux 

Château Canon La Gaffelière was one of the stops at the Bordeaux Wine Tours in 2012 and 2013, organized by Annette Schiller, and will probably also be included in the upcoming Bordeaux Wine Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours in 2014:

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

3 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Evenstad Reserve
2010 95 $65
4 Hewitt Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford
2010 95 $92
5 Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa Valley
2010 95 $75
6 Giuseppe Mascarello & Figlio Barolo Monprivato
2008 95 $110
7 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
2010 97 $120
8 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2010 96 $120
9 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve
2010 96 $135
10 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
2010 95 $135
11 Reynvaan Syrah Walla Walla Valley Stonessence
2010 98 $70
12 Turley Zinfandel Paso Robles Dusi Vineyard
2011 95 $42
13 Croft Vintage Port
2011 97 $93
14 Bedrock The Bedrock Heritage Sonoma Valley
2011 95 $37
15 Olivier Ravoire Gigondas
2011 94 $33
16 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe
2008 94 $42
17 Alexana Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Revana Vineyard
2010 94 $42
18 Poggerino Chianti Classico
2010 93 $25
19 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
2012 93 $33

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller and Anthony Hamilton Russell at the Winery in South Africa

See:
Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

20 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos
2007 95 $40
21 Le Macchiole Bolgheri
2011 93 $30
22 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva
2004 94 $35
23 Seghesio Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Cortina
2010 94 $38

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Pete Seghesio Jr. in Washington DC

See:
Zinfandel and Other "Italian" Wines of Seghesio Vineyards in California

24 Livio Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino Pertimali
2008 94 $55
25 Epoch Estate Blend Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles
2010 93 $40
26 Álvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses Velles Vinyes
2011 93 $40
27 Spring Valley Uriah Walla Walla Valley
2010 94 $50
28 Domaine de l'A Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2010 93 $34
29 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja White Viña Gravonia Crianza
2003 93 $36
30 Lagier Meredith Syrah Mount Veeder
2010 94 $48
31 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Carneros Hyde Vineyard
2010 95 $65
32 Bodegas Hidalgo Gitana Manzanilla Jerez La Gitana
NV 91 $19
33 Ravines Riesling Finger Lakes Dry
2012 91 $17
34 Bodegas Valdemar Rioja Inspiración Selección
2010 91 $20
35 Château du Retout Haut-Médoc
2010 91 $18
36 Bodega Norton Malbec Mendoza Reserva
2011 92 $20
37 Quinta do Passadouro Douro
2010 91 $25
38 Mollydooker Two Left Feet McLaren Vale
2011 92 $25
39 Viña Herminia Rioja Excelsus
2009 93 $18
40 Château de Haute-Serre Malbec Cahors White Label
2010 92 $24
41 Red Heads Studio Shiraz McLaren Vale Barrel Monkeys
2011 91 $20
42 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Uco Valley Reserve
2011 91 $24
43 Godelia Godello Bierzo Selección
2010 91 $14
44 Viña Koyle Carmenère Colchagua Valley Royale
2010 91 $26
45 Château Doisy Daëne Barsac
2010 94 $58

Picture: Co-owner Jean Jacques Dubourdieu and Rachel Martin, Boxwood Winery in Virginia, in Washington DC

See:
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

46 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley Reserve
2010 94 $60

See:
American Wines with German Roots

47 Viña Santa Rita Triple C Maipo Valley
2008 93 $40
48 Greywacke Pinot Noir Marlborough
2011 93 $39
49 Failla Chardonnay Sonoma Coast
2011 92 $34
50 COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico
2010 92 $35
51 Charles Smith Riesling Columbia Valley Kung Fu Girl Evergreen
2012 90 $12

52 Paringa Shiraz South Australia
2010 90 $11
53 Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Trocken Wachau Terrassen
2011 90 $13

Picture: Heinz Frischgruber, Domäne Wachau, at the 4th International Riesling Symposium in Seattle

See:
Austria at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

54 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
2010 93 $45
55 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir Oregon
2011 90 $18
56 Robert Eymael (Mönchhof) Riesling QbA Mosel
2011 90 $17


Picture:  Robert Eymael (Mönchhof) was one of the stops in the Mosel Valley during the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours, organised and led by Annette Schiller (in the middle)

See:
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

57 L'Ecole No. 41 Syrah Columbia Valley
2010 91 $25
58 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
2010 91 $29
59 Donum Pinot Noir Carneros
2010 95 $72

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Anne Moller-Racke at the Donum Ranch in Carneros

See:
Visiting Anne Moller-Racke and her Donum Estate in California: Old World, Terroir-driven Winemaking in the New World

60 Astrolabe Pinot Noir Marlborough Province
2010 92 $28
61 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
2007 92 $38
62 Concha y Toro Syrah Buin Marqués de Casa Concha
2010 91 $22
63 Hourglass Merlot Napa Valley Blueline Vineyard
2010 94 $75
64 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Rockaway Single Vineyard
2010 94 $75
65 Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Spätlese Mosel Graacher Himmelreich
2011 93 $42

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Katharina Pruem at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany

See:
JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

66 Macarico Aglianico del Vulture Macari'
2007 92 $25
67 Natacha Chave Crozes-Hermitage Aléofane
2010 92 $35
68 Chateau Ste. Michelle Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills Horse Heaven Vineyard
2012 90 $15
69 Boutari Naoussa
2009 90 $18
70 Marcassin Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Marcassin Vineyard
2007 96 $125
71 Ashbourne Sandstone Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
2008 93 $25
72 Shafer Relentless Napa Valley
2010 95 $72
73 Achával-Ferrer Malbec Mendoza Finca Mirador
2011 96 $125

See:
The Wines of Argentina's Cult Winemaker Achaval-Ferrer

74 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Garys' Vineyard
2011 93 $55
75 Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Arbois Pupillin Vieilles Vignes
2009 93 $49
76 M. Lapierre Morgon
2011 91 $30
77 Dehlinger Syrah Russian River Valley Goldridge
2010 92 $40
78 J.J. Vincent & Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Marie-Antoinette
2011 90 $25
79 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Savoya Vineyard
2010 93 $55

Picture: Ken Wright and Christian G.E. Schiller in McLean, Virginia, USA

See:
Winetasting: The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon, US

80 Querciabella Maremma Toscana Mongrana
2010 90 $22

See.
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo 

81 Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines
2010 93 $47
82 Mamete Prevostini Valtellina Superiore Sassella
2009 91 $30
83 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Special Selection
2010 96 $130
84 Jolie-Pitt & Perrin Côtes de Provence Rosé Miraval
2012 90 $28
85 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Black Label
2010 91 $35
86 Fontanafredda Barolo La Rosa
2008 95 $96
87 Graham Tawny Port 20 Year Old
NV 93 $60
88 Pierre Paillard Brut Champagne
NV 92 $48
89 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Generations
2009 95 $100
90 Carlisle Zinfandel Napa Valley Hayne Vineyard
2011 93 $48
91 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva
2006 94 $75
92 Château Larcis Ducasse St.-Emilion
2010 94 $90
93 A.A. Badenhorst Family Swartland
2009 92 $42
94 Schiavenza Barolo Prapò
2009 94 $60
95 Bodegas Alto Moncayo Garnacha Campo de Borja
2010 92 $45
96 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli
2008 95 $120
97 Louis Roederer Brut Champagne
2006 94 $78
98 Château d'Yquem Bordeaux White Y
2011 94 $150
99 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St.-Aubin La Chatenière
2011 92 $48
100 Badia a Coltibuono Toscana Cancelli
2011 90 $10

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Owner Emanuela and Owner/Wine Maker Roberto Stucchi Prinetti at Badia a Coltibuono, Tuscany, Italy

See:
Wining and Dining at Badia a Coltibuono in Tuscany with Wine Makers and Owners Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, Italy

Here is the link to the Wine Spectator:
http://2013.top100.winespectator.com/list/

For my comments on earlier years' lists, see: 
The Top 10 Wines of the Wine Spectator 2012, USA
5 Rieslings on the Wine Spectator Top 100 List of 2010
German and Austrian Wines in the Wine Spectator Top 100 2010
Top 100 of the Wine Spectator 2009 include Wittmann and Loosen Rieslings
Germany’s Top Wines: Ratings of Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast (US) versus Eichelmann and Gault Millau (Germany)




Monday, December 2, 2013

An American Whiskey Tasting and a Dinner with Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris at “Im Schiffchen” (2 Stars Michelin) in Duesseldorf, Germany

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Chris Morris, Master Distiller of Brown-Foreman in Kentucky, USA, and Chef Jean-Claude Bourguil, Im Schiffchen, in Duesseldorf, Germany

Chris Morris is the Master Distiller of Brown-Foreman, including Woodford Reserve, the ultra-premium Bourbon Whiskey from Kentucky in the US. I accompanied him on a recent tour through Germany. One of the highlights was an American Whiskey Tasting and a Dinner at “Im Schiffchen” in Duesseldorf, arranged by Ursula Haslauer, Managing Director and Co-owner of Falstaff Deutschland.

Picture: Ursula Haslauer, Managing Director and Co-owner of Falstaff Deutschland, and Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours

See also:
American Whiskey Producers in Germany
Amerikanische Whiskey Hersteller in Deutschland
18 US Distillers at Bar Convent Berlin 2013, Germany
With Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris on a Whiskey Tour in Frankfurt, Duesseldorf and Berlin, Germany

Woodford Reserve

Woodford Reserve is the smallest of the about 20 distilleries in Kentucky. It is unique in using a triple distillation method. This employs three copper pot stills, built in Scotland. Woodford Reserve is operated by the Louisville-based Brown-Forman Distiller Corporation, which also owns Jack Daniels.

Woodford Reserve traces its origins back to 1797, when Elijah Pepper moved from Virginia to Versailles, where he distilled corn whiskey in a small distillery behind the county courthouse. In 1812 he moved his operation to the present site on Glenn's Creek. In 1941 Brown-Forman bought the distillery used it to produce their Early Times whiskey. By the 1960s Bourbon sales were falling and Brown- Forman sold the distillery to a local farmer. The buyer proceeded to make the car fuel substitute 'gasohol' in the distillery for a short period, but when that venture failed, the distillery lay silent for 23 years. Then, in 1994, with interest in 'small batch' Bourbon rising, Brown-Forman bought back the semi-derelict site and restored it to showpiece condition. In 2003, the present Woodford Reserve name was adopted for both the distillery and its whiskey.

Between 40 and 50 barrels a day are filled at Woodford Reserve distillery. The resultant whiskey is bottled at six to seven years of age. The mashbill comprises 72 per cent corn, 18 per cent rye and 12 per cent malted barley. Bourbon whiskey must be at least 51% corn, and many bourbons are as high as 80%. A bourbon mashbill with 18% Rye is fairly high and helps distinguish Woodford Reserve’s slightly spicy character.

In the Brown-Forman family, a lot of time and attention is paid to Jack Daniels, the whiskey from Tennessee, and for good reason: it’s one of the best selling spirits in America. Although Jack Daniels gets lots of attention, it’s Woodford Reserve that is the crown jewel in Brown-Forman portfolio. Run by master distiller Chris Morris, Woodford Reserve focuses on producing small batch premium bourbon.

Chris Morris

Chris Morris is seventh Master Distiller for Brown-Forman, since the company began in 1870. A Louisville native, Chris Morris has grown up around bourbon his whole life. His dad was a production manager, and his mother worked in the art department at Brown-Forman. His career with Brown-Forman began in 1976, as a trainee. Chris Morris holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from Bellarmine College in Louisville, a master’s degree in liberal arts from Texas Christian University, and a master’s degree in marketing from Webster University.

At “Im Schiffchen” in Duesseldorf

Falstaff organized a whiskey tasting with dinner in the “Im Schiffchen” In Duesseldorf. First, Chris Morris led an entertaining and educational tasting with four very different American whiskeys. The aim of the tasting was to give a broad overview of the world of American whiskeys. Following the tasting, guests were treated to an excellent four-course menu. It was a terrific evening, which all who were present will remember as an extremely successful symbiosis of German and American delicacies.

American Whiskey Tasting

Knob Creek Rye Whiskey - Rye whiskey (based on rye) is the original version of American whiskeys, which was initially produced mainly in Maryland and Pennsylvania on the East Coast. Today, rye whiskey is experiencing a boom in the US, after it had almost disappeared. A rye whiskey must be based at least 50% on rye. Rye whiskeys tend to be spicier than Bourbon whiskeys.

Pictures: At the Tasting and Dinner

Woodford Reserve Bourbon Whiskey - This whiskey is produced in Kentucky, where most American whiskey distilleries are located. A Bourbon whiskey must be more than 50% based on corn. “Bourbon is the American interpretation of the whiskeys of our ancestors from Scotland, Ireland and Germany," said Chris Morris. Bourbon can be made anywhere in America. The best, however, come from Kentucky. Woodford Reserve is the premium bourbon whiskey from Brown Foreman.

Pictures: The Whiskeys

Jack Daniel's Single Barrel, Tennessee Whiskey - As the name suggests, this whiskey is produced in Tennessee . A Tennessee whiskey differs from a bourbon whiskey only in that he is additionally filtered over charcoal, making it softer than a bourbon. A “Single Barrel" comes from an individual barrel (and is not a blend of many barrels) .

Wild Turkey American Honey - This is a liqueur made from bourbon whiskey and honey - an example for how American whiskey producers have started to experiment.

Dinner


Prologue


Millefeuille de foie gras, thé matcha et confit de poires


Darne de loup de mer poellée, Consommé d’algues Komba et orge perlé


Coffre de Pintade de Bresse rôti aux arômes de café
Cuisse en Parmentier


Pêche blanche rôtie au four


Pistache et vanille Tahiti


Epilogue


Jean-Claude Bourguil

Jean-Claude Bourguil is one of the leading German Chefs. He was born (and grew up in France) and he moved to Duesseldorf in 1970. He quickly became one of the leading Chefs in the country, working in various top restaurants. In 1977, he took over the restaurant “Im Schiffchen” with his second wife Jeannine and made it within a short period of time one of the best known restaurants in Germany. The first Michelin star was awarded in 1979, the second in 1983 and the third in 1987. Since 2007, “Im Schiffchen” has two Michelin stars.

Pictures: Jean-Claude Bourguil

In 1986, “Im Schiffchen” moved to the second floor of the building, where it is until this day. The first floor has seen different restaurants, all run by Jean-Claude Bourguil, first the “Aalschokker” (which got one Michelin star in 1988), then the “Jean Claude (which gone one Michelin star in 2006) and since 2012 the “Enzo im Schiffchen”, which offers Italian cuisine.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Cognac – An Introduction, France

The “Rhums Arranges” - Arranged Rums - and the Tropical Fruits of Madagascar

In the Glass: A Banyuls - a Deliciously Sweet and Fortified Red Wine from Languedoc-Roussillon

Martini, Noilly Prat and Picpoul de Pinet

Visiting Jas Hennessy and Co. - or more simply: Hennessy - in Cognac, France

American Whiskey Producers in Germany

Amerikanische Whiskey Hersteller in Deutschland

18 US Distillers at Bar Convent Berlin 2013, Germany

With Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris on a Whiskey Tour in Frankfurt, Duesseldorf and Berlin, Germany

Friday, November 29, 2013

Bordeaux Tasting with Philippe Castéja, President of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855, in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Philippe Castéja, President of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855, in Washington DC

Earlier this month in Washington DC, the French-American Cultural Foundation organized a fundraising gala and a Bordeaux winetasting, on the occasion of its 15th anniversary. The French-American Cultural Foundation is a nonprofit organization that fosters cultural and educational exchanges between France and the United States. His Excellency, François Delattre, Ambassador of France to the United States, presided over the gala.

On the day after the fundraising gala, Constance Milstein, owner of The Jefferson Hotel in Washington DC and a member of the gala committee, opened her lovely salons to gala guests, some wine professionals, diplomats from the French Embassy and some members of the Congressional French Caucus for a special tasting of wines from the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. I was graciously invited by Karen Taylor, the editor of France Magazine, whom I met earlier in the year at a dinner with Henri Lurton of Chateau Brane-Cantenac.

See here:
Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA 

Picture: Bérénice Lurton, Chateau Climens, and Karen Taylor, Editor of France Magazine

Philippe Castéja

Philippe Castéja was the star of the tasting. He wears several hats. He is the President of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855. He is the Managing Director of Borie – Manoux, a négociant house since 1882 and one of the last to be family owned and run independently in Bordeaux. He is the owner and/or CEO of a number of Bordeaux chateaux both on the left and right bank. He is the President of French association of wine and spirit exporters (FEVS). Around ten years ago, he was also president of the Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB).

Pictures: At the Tasting

Another branch of the family owns the wine merchants Joanne and Chateau Doisy Vedrines in Sauternes, and the Castejas been involved in wine in the region for several centuries.

Philippe Casteja owns or manages: Chateau Batailley, Pauillac, Chateau Beau Site, St Estephe Cru Bourgeois, Chateau Trotte Vielle, St Emilion 1ere Grand Cru Classé, Chateau Bergat, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, Chateau Domaine de L’Eglise, Pomerol, Chateau Pignon Lalande, Pomerol, Chateau Lynch Moussas, Pauillac, Chateau Haut Bages Monpelou, Pauillac, Chateau Baret, Pessac Leognan (manages), Chateau La Croix Ducasse, Pomerol (manages), plus brands: Cuvee Borie, Beauroy, Beau Rivage, Port Royal, Chevalier de Lynch. Berry Bros’ Good Ordinary Claret is made by Borie Manoux.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Wine Writer Ben Gilberti, Bérénice Lurton and Mark Wessel (MacArthur Beverages)

Bérénice Lurton

Bérénice Lurton, who owns and manages Chateau Climens, was pouring the noble-sweet Bordeaux wines, including her own.

Château Climens was first mentioned in 1547. Since then only five families called Climens their home, with the Lurton family being the last owner when Lucien Lurton bought the estate in 1971. In 1992 Bérénice Lurton, Lucien Lurton’s youngest daughter took over the reins at Château Climens. The estate sits on the highest point in the Barsac appellation and is surrounded by 75 acres of vineyard. The vineyard is entirely planted with Semillion - unusual for a Sauterne – which gives the Climens wines its racy complexity and freshness. Work in the vineyard is based on biodynamic principles and in 2011 Château Climens received the biodyvin certification.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Bérénice Lurton in Washington DC and at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauterne, Premier Grand Cru Classé

A tour and tasting at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauterne, Premier Grand Cru Classé, was one of the highlights of the 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours.

See here:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
 
David Ludovic

David Ludovic is the Director General of Château Marquis de Terme, a 4th growth in the 1855 classification.

Pierre-Louis and Philippe Sénéclauze own the estate that their father, a wine barrel merchant in Algeria, bought in 1935. During the Algerian war, the Sénéclauzes settled in Marseille and built up a wine empire in France, hiring Bordeaux specialists to run their Margaux property.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and David Ludovic, Director General of Château Marquis de Terme, a 4th growth in the 1855 classification.

Château Marquis de Terme was once part of the vast Rauzan estate owned by Pierre de Mesures de Rauzan in the mid-17th century. Over time, this estate was divided, and by the time of the 1855 Classification, had been separated into the estates of Château Rauzan-Gassies, Château Rauzan-Ségla, Château Desmirail, and Château Marquis de Terme.

The vineyard at Marquis de Terme is 100 acres in size and is made up mostly of gravel-soil over clay. The vines average 30 years and are made up of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon,35% Merlot,7% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Production is 180,000 bottles. The average wine searcher price for the 2011 vintage is US$ 40.

Before joining Marquis de Terme in 2009, David Ludovic worked for 9 years at Chateau Bonalgue/Clos du Clocher in Pomerol and for 5 years as Technical Director with Bernard Magrez.

Aaron Nix-Gomez’s Tasting Notes

Last but not least, Aaron Nix-Gomez was among the wine bloggers that were invited and he has already issued his excellent tasting notes, which I am re-issuing below.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Aaron Nix-Gomez at the Tasting

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “Please find my brief tasting notes arranged in the order presented by the tasting sheet. The wines classified by Jefferson in 1787 are marked with a star. I was particularly taken by the 2009 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2000 Chateau Montrose, 1990 Chateau Boyd Cantenac, and 2005 Chateau Climens.

1990 Chateau Boyd Cantenac, Margaux

The nose bore mature aromas and wood box. In the mouth were mature but surprisingly ripe berries which expanded in the mouth. There was lots of berry grip towards the finish which was followed by a good aftertaste. The juicy acidity mixed well with black minerals in the finish and an earthy note. Drinking well now with plenty of life ahead.

2010 Chateau Boyd Cantenac, Margaux

In the mouth the flavors began with a vanilla note, toast, and a round personality. It maintained concentration with smokey graphite, flavors, and strong, drying, citric, tannins in the finish.

2007 Chateau Branaire Ducru, Saint-Julien

There was a good, rich nose of cherries, red berries. In the mouth was round red fruit, minerally acidity, then black fruit with some weight. There were some greenhouse tannins, integrated acidity, and blacker fruit in the finish. The wine left some tannins on the teeth which were a little spicy. Drinking well.

2006 Chateau Lagrange, Saint-Julien

There was an earthy, berry nose with hints of maturity. There was bright acidity, vigor, and a wood note. Will age.

2007 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

This wine played it close at first with a hint of salivating acidity. It showed more structure, drying flavors, and will clearly last for some time.

2007 Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Saint-Julien

There was a grapey nose which finished with earthy aromas. In the mouth was concentrated red fruit followed by black fruit and drying tannins. The finish was firmer.

2009 Chateau Saint-Pierre, Saint-Julien

There was a slightly earthy nose with aromas of blue berries. In the mouth were red and black fruit with the acidity and tannins building into a firm structure of ripe tannins.

2005 Chateau Batailley, Pauillac

The nose had hints of maturity. In the mouth the wine was more austere before building in flavor to reveal hard red fruit.

2009 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac

The round nose was perfumed and young. There was young red fruit in the mouth, tart acidity, and gentle integration with the very fine, ripe tannins persisting through the perfumed aftertaste. Built for long development.

2006 Chateau Pontet Canet, Pauillac

There was cassis on the nose followed by tart, red fruit in the mouth. The drying structure and acidity was present but the wine is very young with graphite and black fruit in the finish. It was a little spicy.

2000 Chateau Montrose, Saint-Estephe

There was a classic nose with a mature aspect. In the mouth there were fresh flavors, ripeness, expansion, and a controlled, classic structure for further development. Nice but will continue development.

2009 Chateau Filhot, Sauternes

There was higher toned flavors followed by honied, yellow fruit which builds to add moderate spice. There was a rich, creamy, apricot aftertaste. The wine has underlying acidity.

2005 Chateau Guiraud, Sauternes

The nose was nutty with the flavors in the mouth evocative of a mature Bordeaux. There were spices, creme brulee, and a cola hint. The acidity was noticeable on the sides of the tongue. The aftertaste was spicy.

2005 Chateau Climens, Barsac

There was a good, complex nose. The mouth followed the nose with balance, a glycerine mouth feel, acidity, and complex spices. The yellow fruit mixed with frangipane. The flavors were big and mouthfilling. Hard to resist now but it has a long future ahead.

2007 Chateau Coutet, Barsac

The nose revealed marmalade and peach aromas. In the mouth there was rich weight to the yellow fruit. There was a hint of spices, underlying acidity, and a honied, sticky aftertaste. Tastes like a lot of residual sugar.

2010 Chateau Nairac, Barsac

The nose was light with more white than yellow fruit aromas. In the mouth the wine was heavier and much thicker than the nose suggested. There were yellow fruit flavors, brighter acidity towards the end, and a little salivating aspect in the aftertaste.

schiller-wine: Related Posting

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Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux – A Short Introduction

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, 2012, USA

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites 

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

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Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux

An Afternoon with François Mitjavile at his Tertre Rôtebeouf - A Saint Emilion Cult Wine Producer

Tasting Château du Cros and other Petites Bordeaux Wines with Winemaker Julien Noel at Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, USA 

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Touring Virginia with Anne Cuvelier, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France 

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France

Château Brane-Cantenac, Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Margaux – A Profile, France

Henri Lurton and his Chateau Brane Cantenac Wines

An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA

Thursday, November 28, 2013

BerlinSpaetburgunderCup 2011/2013, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Caroline Diel, Schlossgut Diel. Her "Caroline" came in as #7. See here for more on Caroline Diel: Caroline and Armin Diel, Schlossgut Diel (Nahe Valley), Presented their New Wines (Vintage 2012), Germany

Martin Zwick, the wine blogger from Berlin, is rapidly building up a reputation as being a mover and shaker in the German wine scene. This is due to the various Berlin Cups that he is organizing. It all started with the BerlinRieslingCup a few years ago, a blindtasting and ranking in November of what Martin Ziwck considered the leading Grosses Gewaechs wines - the ultra-premium dry wines of the VDP producers, Germany’s elite wine makers - that were released on September 1 of the same year. Initially, people did not pay much attention to the BerlinRieslingCup, but this has clearly changed over the years. This year’s flights were put together by David Schildknecht and tasted and rated a few weeks ago by a group of experts. I will report about the results in due course.

Picture: Martin Zwick and Christian G.E. Schiller in Wiesbaden

But the BerlinCup is no longer just about Grosses Gewaechs wines, Martin has added a (1) BerlinGutsweinCup – ranking entry level wines, a (2) BerlinKabinettCup – ranking lightly sweet wines at the Kabinett level and recently for the first time a (3) BerlinSpaetburgunderCup – ranking German Pinot Noir wines.

For more, see:
BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 – Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany
BerlinKabinettCup 2013 - Kabinett 2012, Germany
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012

Red Wine Revolution in Germany

There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly takes note of it. Of course, given its location, the red wines of Germany tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent; in the international wine scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this is changing. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world; the share of red wines in terms of production has increased to about 35 percent now in Germany and increasingly the international market takes note of what is happening in Germany.

Pinot Noir in Germany

Today, Germany is the third biggest producer of Pinot Noir (called Spaetburgunder in Germany), after France and the US, with more planted than Australia and New Zealand combined. However, despite being the world’s third largest producer of Pinot Noir, the country exports just over 1% of its production.

BerlinSpaetburgunderCup 2011/2013

The BerlinSpaetburgunderCup 2011/2013 took place in 2013, tasted and ranked were wines from mostly 2011, but also some from 2010 and 2009. Master of Wine Caro Maurer from Bonn put together the flights. 34 wines were in the competition. A group of sommeliers, wine retailers, wine bloggers, wine marketing people and Pinot Noir lovers tasted and ranked 34 wines. Und als special guest die Winzerin Melanie Bickel-Stumpf. These were all ultra-premium wines, but not only VDP.Grosses Gewaechs wines.


The Ranking

1. 2011 Rings "Saumagen"
2. 2010 Gutzler "Morstein"
3. 2011 Huber "Schlossberg"
4. 2011 Meyer-Näkel "Pfarrwingert"
5. 2011 Stadt Klingenberg-B. Baltes "Schlossberg"
6. 2011 F. Becker "St. Paul"
7. 2011 Diel "Caroline"
8. 2011 Huber "Bienenberg"
9. 2011 Thörle "Hölle"
10. 2011 Wöhrwag "Kreidenstein"
11. 2011 Keller "Bürgel"
12. 2011 Krebs "Musikantenbuckel"
13. 2010 Knipser "Burgweg"
14. 2011 Ziereisen "Jaspis" PN
15. 2011 Keller "Frauenberg"
16. 2011 Aldinger "Marienglas"
17. 2011 Stodden "Rosenthal"
18. 2011 Kesseler "Schlossberg"
19. 2011 Fürst "Hundsrück"
20. 2011 Stodden "Herrenberg"
21. 2010 R&C Schneider "Engelsberg"
22. 2011 Kesseler "Höllenberg"
23. 2011 Jülg PN
24. 2011 Dr Heger "Schlossberg"
25. 2011 Chat Sauvage "Kapellenberg"
26. 2009 Duijn SD
27. 2011 Enderle&Moll "Muschelkalk"
28. 2011 Enderle&Moll "Buntsandstein"
29. 2011 Chat Sauvage Schlossberg
30. 2011 Fürst "Schlossberg"
31. 2011 Keller "S"
32. 2011 Steinmetz "Paulinsberg"
33. 2011 Ziereisen Jaspis Spätburgunder AR

2010 Christmann "Idig" (off-bottle)

Schiller Wine - Related Postings

Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

President Obama Serves a “German” Riesling at State Dinner for Chinese President Hu Jintao

Visiting Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, Washington State - Where Armin Diel’s Poet’s Leap Riesling is Made, USA

Caroline and Armin Diel, Schlossgut Diel (Nahe Valley), Presented their New Wines (Vintage 2012), Germany

Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

The Wines of Up and Coming Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen

Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany

Chat Sauvage Versus Peter Querbach – An Impromptu Pinot Noir Wine Tasting with Kai Buhrfeind at His Grand Cru Wine Bar in Frankfurt, Germany

BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 – Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany

BerlinKabinettCup 2013 - Kabinett 2012, Germany

Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Germany’s 2012 VDP.Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Picture: Grosses Gewaechs Pre-release Tasting 2013 in Wiesbaden, Germany

Germany’s 2012 VDP.Grosse Gewaechs – Grand Cru - white wines were released on September 1, 2013. These are the ultra-premium dry wines from the very best vineyard sites made by some of the best producers in Germany.

At this annual occasion, a number of presentations by the VDP – the association of German elite winemakers - take place in Germany, including one in Berlin during the first days of September and one later in the month in Frankfurt am Main.

Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden

One presentation that clearly stands out is the pre-release tasting for a group of about 120 wine journalists, sommeliers, retailers, importers, etc from all over the world, but mainly from Germany, in the old Kurhaus in the stately German spa town of Wiesbaden, which is 45 minutes drive from Frankfurt. It is a seated, very well organized tasting where you have the chance to go through the VDP Grosses Gewaechs wines during 2 days. The invitations for this event are highly sought after. This year, I was happy to get again invited by the VDP and to participate in the event. Others I saw at the event were US wine importer Rudi Wiest, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland editor Joel B. Payne, winemaker, blogger and internet-TV star Dirk Wuertz and Riesling guru and wine journalist Stuart Pigott.

Pictures: Monday Evening Party, Sponsored by the VDP Nahe - Christian G.E. Schiller with Christopher S. Miller (Spago Beverly Hills), Rudi Wiest (California), Martin Tesch (Weingut Tesch), Tim Froehlich (Weingut Schaefer-Froehlich) and Karsten Peter (Weingut Gut Hermannsberg)

420 Grosse Gewächse wines were poured. Notable absentees were Weingut Leitz, Weingut Breuer (as Weingut Breuer is no longer member of the VDP) and Weingut Peter Jakob Kuehn (Peter Jakob feels that late August is still too early to present his Grosse Gewaechs wines).

See here for last year's tasting:
Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Grosses Gewaechs

What is a VDP.Grosses Gewaechs wine? There is currently a bit of confusion (and there will be even more confusion in the years to come) as (1) Grosses Gewaechs was a term that was created by the VDP only a few years ago and (2) the VDP has created a new classification for German wines that differs radically from the German standard classification (and is still in the process of refining and implementing it). The latest revisions were those that came into effect with the vintage 2012.

Grosses Gewaechs and the new German Wine Classification

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the VDP producers.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller at the Tasting

In a nutshell, the VDP is moving to a classification system that resembles very much the classification system in the Bourgogne. The classification of the VDP puts the terroir principle at the center of its classification approach.

With the latest modifications of earlier this year, the absolutely finest vineyards are called Grosse Lage (for the 2011 vintage still called Erste Lage) and dry wines from these super top vineyards are called Grosses Gewaechs. Grosses Gewächs wines are the finest dry wines from Germany’s finest vineyards.

To qualify for the Grosses Gewaechs label, a number of criteria need to be respected. (i) The fruit has to come from a Grosse Lage (for the 2011 vintage still called Erste Lage) vineyard. (ii) At harvest, the grapes need to be at least at Spaetlese level in terms of the sugar content. (iii) Only certain – typical - grape varieties are allowed, including Riesling and Spaetburgunder. Riesling is the only varietal allowed for Grosse Lage wines in the Mosel, Nahe, and Mittelrhein, but grapes like Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir), Lemberger, Fruehburgunder, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Gewuerztraminer, and Silvaner are included in other regions. (iv) Further restrictions apply: there are yield restrictions; only hand picking of grapes is permitted and harvest must be late in the autumn.

Pictures: The Efficient VDP Service Team

This is what we had in the glass in Wiesbaden: White Grosses Gewaechs wines from 2012 and red Grosses Gewaechs wines from 2011 as well as a few white Grosse Lage wines that exceeded the sweetness limit of Grosses Gewaechs wines just a bit, but were still presented. The tasting covers most of the winegrowing regions in Germany, and not just Riesling. GG status has been approved for Silvaner, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and Lemberger, plus even a Chardonnay was included this year. But the majority of the wines are, of course, Riesling wines, and each region’s wines are grouped together for comparison.

The VDP

The VDP is the world’s oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

Pictures: Co-tasters Rudi Wiest (US Importer), Martin Koessler (K and U Weinhalle in Nuernberg), Ralf Kaiser, Martin Zwick, Helmuth O. Knall, Dirk Wuertz and Giuseppe Lauria

The Tasting Notes

Silvaner

Franken

The tasting list started with 20 Silvaner from Franken – wines which I liked very much but which are difficult to find outside of Germany. I liked in particular the wines of Wirsching from Iphofen, the Kronsberg with strong mineral notes and the Julius Echter Berg which was smoother and more approachable at this point.

Riesling

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

The Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Grosses Gewaechs wines came in 2 groups: (1) Here, at the beginning, wines within the dryness limits of the VDP and (2) then at the end again a few wines from a Grosse Lage vineyard, that were kind of dry, but slightly above the dryness limit and thus did not qualify as a Grosses Gewaechs

With regard to the first group, although I know that my fellow colleagues at the German Wine Society Board (Washington DC Chapter) all love the fruity sweet wines of Ernst Loosen, Dr. Loosen put on a very strong performance with his ultra premium Grosses Gewaechs wines from Himmelreich, Wuerzgarten, Praelat, Sonnenuhr and Treppchen. In particular the 2012 Praelat is a sensational wine. Treppchen is more withdrawn. The Graacher Himmelreich shows a lot of tropical notes.

I would also like to mention the impressive Marienburg collection of Clemens Busch, the non-conventional winemaker from Puenderich. Clemens Busch shows year after year what is possible in the Mosel Valley, following biodynamic practices. The Grosses Gewaechs from the Marienburg "Rothenpfad" vineyard is a very elegant and pure wine.

The Top 10 Mosel wines of my New York colleague Justin Christoph were:

1. Himmelreich Willi Schaefer
2. Saarfeilser Peter Lauer
3. Scharzhofberger "Pergensknopp" van Volxem
4. Rausch Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken
5. Karthäuserhofberg Karthäuserhof
6. Laurentiuslay St. Urbans-Hof
7. Schonfels Peter Lauer
8. Prälat Dr. Loosen
9. Juffer-Sonnenuhr Fritz Haag
10.Marienburg "Falkenlay" Clemens Busch

Saale-Unstrut

1 wine – the Edelacker of Weingut Pawis is a wine that I always like: clear, juicy and animating – good.

Mittelrhein

4 wines.

Rheingau

56 wines, up from 42 wines last year.

There was again a lot of – in my view undeserved – Rheingau bashing, as in previous years. Clearly, the Rheingau winemakers are not the darlings of the wine writers currently. Sommelier Jan Wilhelm Burmann went as far as saying that the Rheingau has reached a new low point. I strongly disagree with Jan Wilhelm. Kuenstler, for example, presented wines from Ruedesheim (Berg Rottland and Berg Schlossberg), Hochheim (Hoelle and Kirchenstueck) and Kostheim (Weiss Erd) and all 5 of them were in the top league, as far as I am concerned.

As expected, the Graefenberg of world class producer Robert Weil was an Ambassador for German Riesling, a wine very popular among wine connesseurs around the world.

There was less talk this year about the wines of Balthasar Ress, but all agreed that wine blogger and wine maker Dirk Wuertz continues to lead Weingut Balthasar Ress to new hights. Another name that came up in this connection was Theresa Breuer, Weingut Breuer, who did not present her wines, as Weingut Breuer is not a member of the VDP.

Few people had Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser (who sells predominantly in the domestic market), on their list, but I think she is a young, promising winemaker. Her Siegelsberg showed fine herbal notes.

Another producer that sells predominatly on the domestic market and that is someboday to watch is Weingut Jakob Jung. Alexander Jung presented 2 wines, the Siegelsberg and the Hohenrein, both steely, with a vibrant acidity.

Mark Barth is also one of the “Jungen Wilden”. Weingut Barth had 3 wines in the presentation: Schönhell, Hassel and Wisselbrunnen, all highly interesting wines.

The Nonnberg (Wicker) and Königin Victoriaberg (Hochheim) of Joachim Flick were the only FairChoice certified wines at the tasting, combining excellence and sustainability.

The Rheingau is also experimenting with wood. Weingut Allendorf presented with the Winkeler Hasensprung an excellent example of how it should be done.

In Erbach, von Oetinger showed 3 wines that were extremely good. In particular, Siegelsberg showed good fruit intensity and a round character, supported by good acidity.

The Top 10 of my New York colleague Justin Christopher were:

1. Doosberg F.B. Schönleber
2. Lenchen August Eser
3. Lenchen "Rosengarten" Spreitzer
4. Kirchenstück Künstler
5. Rothenberg Wegeler
6. St. Nikolaus Spreitzer
7. St. Nikolaus F.B. Schönleber
8. Marcobrunn Knyphausen
9. Weiß Erd Künstler
10.Berg Rottland Künstler

Nahe

23 wines, down from 26 wines last year.

There were just 4 flights of Nahe Rieslings this year, but it goes without saying that there were a lot of excellent wines on hand. For many I talked to, the Nahe and the Pfalz were battling for the top position in this tasting. In the Nahe region, the leading trio is Dönnhoff/Emrich-Schönleber/Schäfer-Fröhlich. Close behind is Caroline Diel, Schlossgut Diel; I was also very much impressed by the 2 wines Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, presented.

Schäfer-Fröhlich presented 6 wines. All of these were excellent and had a distinct “sponti” scent on the nose. Clearly, 2012 was a spectacular year for Tim Fröhlich.

In a rather different style, the wines from Dönnhoff were also excellent: More pure fruit and no sponti aromas. Doennhoff offered 3 wines – Dellchen, Hermannshöhle and Felsenberg, with the latter showing a superb balance of fruit and acid with some minerality and a very long finish.

Schlossgut Diel showed 3 excellent wines, all from Dorsheim - Pittermännchen, Goldloch and Burgberg. My personal favorite was Goldloch, with vibrant acidity and a long finish.

Kruger-Rumpf is generally viewed as a second tier top producer in the Nahe, but I must say, the Pittersberg was an impressive wine: Fresh acidity, fruity and elegant, quite lively, good length. Georg Rumpf is clearly somebaod to watch.

Rheinhessen

32 wines, up from 26 wines last year. Keller and Wittmann are the acknowledged leaders, widely regarded as among the greatest producers of dry Rieslings Germany, and their wines did not disappoint in 2012. Close behind the leading duo is H.O. Spanier with his Battenfeld-Spanier and Kuehling-Gillot wines. Gunderloch also showed excellent wines.

Keller only showed two of his numerous GG and high-end dry wines this year. No Kirchspiel, Morstein, Absterde or G-Max, but the two wines he did show – Hubacker and Pettenthal - were outstanding. As to the latter, for the first time this year he presented a wine from the “Roter Hang”, which showed a touch of sponti on the nose, but also great depth and minerality.

The other big name in Rheinhessen is Wittman, the 2014 Gault Millau Winemaker of the Year. Interestingly, Philip Wittmann was awarded the winemaker of the year title, but was not promoted to the top group of 5 grapes winemakers. Wittmann showed 4 wines, all from Westhofen, and many considered these 4 wines as the stars of the event: Aulerde, Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and, last but not least, Morstein.

There is no need to introduce the wines of H.O. Spanier. Perhaps not yet so well known is the fact that he is responsible for the wines of both Battenfeld-Spanier (his estate) and for Kuehling Gillot (the estate of his wife Caroline Spanier Gillot). There was general agreement among the various tasters I talked to during the breaks that H.O. Spanier is closely behind Wittmann and Keller.

Flight 33 – Morstein (Wittmann), Hubacker (Keller), Am Schwarzen Herrgott, Frauenberg, Kirchenstueck (all Battenfeld-Spanier) - was arguably the strongest flight of the tasting.

Pfalz

60 Rieslings, up from 53 last year.

With 11 flights, the Pfalz showed that it is one of the largest and most important producers of GG Rieslings. While all the regions have a number of vineyards with perhaps two or three Grosses Gewaechs producers, there were several flights in the Pfalz tasting with 6 or 5 wines from the same vineryard and different producers, including Pechstein, Jesuitengarten, Kirchenstueck and Ungeheuer.

The star and the most controversial Pfalz producer was von Winning, because many of the von Winning wines have a toasty/savory component from exposure to new oak barrels. According to Terry Theise, the von Wiining wines are not aged in barriques, but in new large oak casks which von Winning did not steam to reduce their new oak character. Also, I was told that some of von Winning’s wines are put though malolactic fermentation, although I could not taste it. Overall, von Winning wines tend to be different from the other wines. I found the wood too dominant in the Kirchenstück, but well integrated in the Kalkofen. Also, I liked von Winning’s Riesling most in the Pechstein flight. Dirk Wuertz: “von Winning plays in a different league. So much authentity and absolute will for his own style are unique.”

Christmann’s wines, by contrast, are the wines of a President, like the wines of Weil in the Rheingau – Ambassadors for the Pfalz. They show very well what the world can expect from the Pfalz and what the Pfalz is abel to delivery – world class crisp and fresh Riesling. I liked 2012 Christmann Idig Riesling GG: Hints of floral and orange peel notes on the nose, fruity, elegant and lively on the palate, good length. 89

Von Buhl is going through some difficult times, but the 5 GG wines von Buhl presented showed all very well. The Pechstein was fruity, elegant, with a lively palate and long.

The Top 10 of my New York Colleague Justin Christopher were:

1. "Ganz Horn" Im Sonnenschein Rebholz
2. Pechstein Bassermann-Jordan
3. Jesuitengarten Mosbacher
4. Im Sonnenschein Rebholz
5. Jesuitengarten von Buhl
6. Kalkofen Bürklin-Wolf
7. Mandelgarten Christmann
8. Kastanienbusch Rebholz
9. Idig Christmann
10. Gaisböhl Bürklin-Wolf

Franken

20 wines.

A surprisingly large number of Rieslings from Franken

Baden

While the focus of the wines from Baden was red wines, Baden also presented 14 Riesling wines, up from 6 last year.

Württemberg

Again, another German wine region that is not known for its Rieslings. I must admit I almost never drink Rieslings from Wuerttemberg. 14 wines, up from 12 last year. Ernst Dautel’s “Gruebenstein” Sonnenberg was my favorite.

Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc)

Sachsen

2 wines.

Saale-Unstrut

1 wine (of Pawis).

Franken

3 wines.

Pfalz

11 wines.

Baden

11 wines.

Wuerttemberg

3 wines.

Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris)

Saale-Unstrut

1 wine.

Wuerttemberg

2 wines.

Baden

11 wines

Chardonnay

Baden

1 wine.

Frueburgunder (Pinot Noir Précoce)

Pinot Noir Précoce is a form or mutation of Pinot Noir which differs essentially by ripening earlier than normal (thus the use of the descriptive nomination 'précoce').

All the red wines were 2011.

Ahr

2 wines.

Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir)

There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly takes note of it. Of course, given its location, the red wines of Germany tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent; in the international wine scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this is changing. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world; the share of red wines in terms of production has increased to about 35 percent now in Germany and increasingly the international market takes note of what is happening in Germany.

Today, Germany is the third biggest producer of Pinot Noir (called Spaetburgunder in Germany), after France and the US, with more planted than Australia and New Zealand combined. However, despite being the world’s third largest producer of Pinot Noir, the country exports just over 1% of its production.

Ahr

14 wines, up from 2 wines last year.

My favorites were the 3 wines of Meyer-Naekel: Sonnenberg, Kraeuterberg and Pfarrwingert. The Sonnenberg had a long, tarry finish.

Sachsen

1 wine.

Rheingau

6 wines, up from 3 last year: Kuenstler (2), Georg Mueller Stiftung, August Kesseler (2), Fritz Allendorf.

Rheinhessen

4 wines. Was not represented a year ago.

Pfalz

13 wines, unchanged from last year.

My favorites: Idig A. Christmann, Kammerberg, Friedrich Becker and the 3 Knipser wines: Kirschgarten, Mandelpfad, Burgweg.

Franken

5 wines, up from 4 last year.

Baden

12 wines, down from 19 wines last year.

My favorites: the 3 wines of Bernhard Huber – Bienenberg, Schlossberg, Sommerhalde – and the 2 wines of Dr. Heger – Schlossberg, Winklerberg “Haeuslerboden”.

Württemberg

10 wines, down from 11 last year.

Lemberger

Wuerttemberg

11 wines.

All interesting wines. The Austrians a currently showing the world what the Lemberger variety (called Blaufraenkisch in Austria) can produce. Again, Graf Neipperg was my #1.

Off-dry Riesling

Mosel Saar Ruwer

6 wines, down from 13 wines last year.

As referred to above, these were wines that exceeded somewhat the limit for dryness and thus can not be sold as Grosses Gewaechs.

5 of these wines came from van Volxem and 1 wine from Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken.

Summary Assessments

Falstaff

97 Riesling 2012 Gottesfuß, Wiltingen VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut van Volxem Wiltingen Mosel
96 Riesling 2012 Hubacker, Dalsheim VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut Keller Flörsheim-Dalsheim Rheinhessen
95 Riesling 2012 Goldtröpfchen, Piesport VDP Grosses Gewächs Reinhold Haart Piesport Mosel
95 Riesling 2012 Altenberg, Kanzem VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut van Volxem Wiltingen Mosel
95 Riesling 2012 Schonfels, Ayl VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut Peter Lauer Ayl Mosel
95 Riesling 2012 Ohligsberg, Wintrich VDP Grosses Gewächs Reinhold Haart Piesport Mosel
95 Riesling 2012 Hölle, Hochheim VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut Künstler Hochheim am Main Rheingau
95 Riesling 2012 Hermannshöhle Niederhausen VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut Dönnhoff Oberhausen Nahe
95 Riesling 2012 Halenberg, Monzingen VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut Emrich-Schönleber Monzingen Nahe
95 Riesling 2012 Morstein, Westhofen VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut Wittmann Westhofen bei Worms Rheinhessen
95 Riesling 2012 Pechstein, Forst VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut von Winning Deidesheim Pfalz
95 Riesling 2012 Ungeheuer, Forst VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut von Winning Deidesheim Pfalz
95 Spätburgunder 2011 Sankt Paul Schweigen VDP Grosses Gewächs Weingut Friedrich Becker Schweigen Pfalz

Mario Scheuermann

96
2012 Van Volxem Riesling Scharzhofberger “Pergensknopp” (Saar)
95
2012 von Winning Kirchenstück (Pfalz)
2012 Van Volxem Riesling Gottesfuss (Saar)
94
2012 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen “Blaufüßer Lay” (Saar)
2012 von Winnning Pechstein (Pfalz)
2012 von Winning Ungeheuer (Pfalz)
2012 von Winning Kieselberg (Pfalz)
2012 Künstler Hölle (Rheingau)
2012 Van Volxem Riesling Volz (Saar)
2012 Van Volxem Riesling Goldberg (Saar)
93
2012 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen “Laubach” (Mosel)
2012 Heymann-Löwenstein Röttgen (Mosel)
2012 Schlossgut Diel Goldloch (Nahe)
2012 Dr. Wehrheim Weissburgunder Mandelberg (Pfalz)
2012 Bernhart Weissburgunder Sonnenberg “Redling” (Pfalz)
2012 von Winning Langenmorgen (Pfalz)
2012 von Winning Kalkofen (Pfalz)
2012 Mosbacher Freundstück (Pfalz)
2012 Bassermann-Jordan Kalkofen (Pfalz)
2012 von Buhl Kirchenstück (Pfalz)
2012 Künstler Kirchenstück (Rheingau)
2012 Langwerth von Simmern Mannberg (Rheingau)
2012 Balthasar Ress Wisselbrunnen (Rheingau)
2012 Van Volxem Riesling Altenberg (Saar)

Kaufempfehlung (Buy!) (Martin Zwick, Berlin)

2012 Keller “Pettenthal” GG
2012 Schäfer-Föhlich “Stromberg” + “Frühlingsplätzchen” GG
2012 Battenfeld-Spanier “Frauenberg” GG
2012 Bürklin-Wolf “Pechstein” + “Kalkofen” + “Gaisböhl” GG
2012 Wittmann “Morstein” + “Brunnenhäuschen” GG
2012 Emrich-Schönleber “Halenberg” GG
2012 von Winning “Ungeheuer” GG
2012 A. Christimann “Idig” + “Mandelgarten” GG
2012 Dr. Loosen “Prälat” GG
2012 Clemens Busch “Falkenlay”
2012 von Othegraven “Altenberg”+”Bockstein” GG
2012 Wagner-Stempel “Höllberg” + “Heerkretz” GG
2012 Toni Jost “Hahn” GG
2012 Heymann-Löwenstein “Röttgen” GG
2012 Diel “Pittermännchen” + “Burgberg” GG
2012 Dönnhoff “Dellchen” + “Felsenberg” GG
2012 Kranz “Kalmit” GG
2012 Kühling-Gillot “Rothenberg” GG
2012 von Buhl “Kirchenstück” GG
2012 van Volxem “Altenberg” + “Scharzhofberg Pergensknopp” GG

Top 25 Grosses Gewachs Rieslings tasted in Wiesbaden this week (Justin Christoph, New York)

1. Felseneck, Schäfer-Fröhlich (Nahe)
2. Pettenthal, Keller (Rheinhessen)
3. Ölberg, Kühling-Gillot (Rheinhessen)
4. Pettenthal, Kühling-Gillot (Rheinhessen)
5. Heerkretz, Wagner-Stempel (Rheinhessen)
6. Hermannshöhle, Dönnhoff (Nahe)
7. Halenberg, Emrich-Schönleber (Nahe)
8. Frauenberg, Battenfeld-Spanier (Rheinhessen)
9. "Ganz Horn" Im Sonnenschein, Rebholz (Pfalz)
10. Himmelreich, W. Schaefer (Mosel)
11. Pittersberg, Kruger-Rumpf (Nahe)
12. Morstein, Keller (Rheinhessen)
13. Kirchspiel, K. F. Groebe (Rheinhessen)
14. Saarfeilser, Peter Lauer (Mosel)
15. Doosberg, F.B. Schönleber (Rheingau)
16. Scharzhofberger "Pergensknopp", van Volxem (Mosel)
17. Goldenes Loch, Schloss Neuweier (Baden)
18. Sackträger, Rappenhof (Rheinhessen)
19. Kupfergrube, Schäfer-Fröhlich (Nahe)
20. Felsenberg, Dönnhoff (Nahe)
21. Pettenthal, St. Antony (Rheinhessen)
21. Pechstein, Bassermann-Jordan (Pfalz)
23. Frühlingsplätzchen, Schäfer-Fröhlich (Nahe)
24. Frühlingsplätzchen, Emrich-Schönleber (Nahe)
25. Jesuitengarten, Georg Mosbacher (Pfalz)
Also in the running:
Höllberg, Wagner-Stempel (Rheinhessen)
Geyersberg, Winter (Rheinhessen)
Im Sonnenschein , Rebholz (Pfalz)
Lenchen, August Eser (Rheingau)
Lenchen "Rosengarten", Spreitzer (Rheingau)
Kirchenstück, Künstler (Rheingau)
Dautenpflänzer, Kruger-Rumpf (Nahe)
Stromberg, Schäfer-Fröhlich (Nahe)
Dellchen, Dönnhoff (Nahe)
Jesuitengarten, von Buhl (Pfalz)
Kalkofen, Dr. Bürklin-Wolf (Pfalz)
Mandelgarten, A. Christmann (Pfalz)
Idig, A. Chrimann (Pfalz)
Kastanienbusch, Rebholz (Pfalz)
Karthäuserhofberg, Karthäuserhof (Mosel)
Plauelrain, Andreas Laible (Baden)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

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Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

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The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

Barth Primus is Germany’s First Sekt Made with an Erstes Gewaechs Wine

Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, on the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany

FairChoice Certified Wine in Germany: Weingut Joachim Flick in the Rheingau

A Painted Winetasting at Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung in Hattenheim (Eltville), Rheingau, Germany

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Chat Sauvage Versus Peter Querbach – An Impromptu Pinot Noir Wine Tasting with Kai Buhrfeind at His Grand Cru Wine Bar in Frankfurt, Germany

Dirk Wuertz Presented the 2012 Grosses Gewaechs Wines of Weingut Balthasar Ress, Germany

Rheingau Riesling Gala 2013 at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Impressions from the Riesling and Co World Tour 2010 in New York

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Headwind (Gegenwind) – A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany