Champagne Barons de Rothschild is a very young Champagne House, founded in 2005 only. It is a joint venture of three branches of the Rothschild family. Its Managing Director, Frédéric Mairesse, was in town (Washington DC) and I had the please of attending a winemaker dinner with him that Calvert and Woodley, a leading wine store in Washington DC, organized at the prestigious The George Town Club.
Invitation
Please join us in welcoming Frédéric Mairesse, managing director of Champagne Barons de Rothschild, to Washington, DC! There is no more hallowed name in the world of wine than that of Barons de Rothschild, the family owners of Château Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild, and numerous great estates around the world. This extraordinary Champagne house is a joint venture of all three branches of the Rothschild family. When planning the production of its Champagne, the Rothschild family approached the very best winemakers and established a team of experts with an impressive track record. Foremost among them was an expert connoisseur of Champagne houses and wine in general.
This 4-course dinner will feature the entire line of Barons de Rothschild Champagne and will be held at the illustrious George Town Club, established in 1966 and patterned after the finest clubs in London and Paris. Please join us for what is sure to be a spectacular evening!
Champage and ombiasy WineTours
Annette Schiller and I visit regulary the Champagne region, as part of the Bourgogne/ Champagne tours by ombiasy WineTours. These tours start in Lyon and end in Paris and cover the Beaujolais, Bourgogne, Chablis and Champagne areas. Chamapagne producers that we have visited recently include the following.
Champagne – An Introduction, France
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
Champagne Barons de Rothschild
The Rothschild family has long been involved in numerous wine projects around the world, including their namesake Bordeaux.
In 2005 the three branches of the Rothschild family have come together and given rise to a single ambition: combine the best terroirs with their know-how to create champagne Barons de Rothschild.
The three Rothschild cousins – Baron Benjamin, a Geneva banker who also owns Chateau Clarke, Baron Eric, owner of Chateau Lafite and several other estates and Baroness Philippine along with her son Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, owners of Chateau Mouton – wanted the champagnes to enter their heavy portfolio of wines and spotted the ideal place for the production in the Cave Vertus in Reims.
Thus, they created three champagnes cuvées: Barons de Rothschild Brut, Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs andBarons de Rothschild Rosé.
The Barons de Rothschild started the champagne production with the ambition to do the best quality champagne they can.
One of their important first steps was to locate adequate supply of quality grapes, especially Chardonnay, which is what they wanted for the primary base of their champagnes.
This was a bold choice for a new House, as Chardonnay is the most scarce and most expensive grape in Champagne.
They wanted to purchase their own vineyards, but they needed to find a sufficiently large vineyard – at least 10-15 acres – while they found some very small plots and they did not like the idea to have a collection of tiny plots scattered about.
Eventually, they discovered what they sought in the Côtes des Blanc region, and settled long term contracts with selected vignerons in the finest Grands and Premiers Crus areas.
They began selling their champagnes in 2009, selecting Japan as their initial market, as all three branches of the family had connections in this country.
After Japan, the Rothschilds began selling their champagnes in Switzerland and Belgium, both which proved very good markets.
They are continuing to expand their distribution and sell about 250,000 bottles annually. They are now trying to expand into the U.S..
As part of their plans, they have chosen to serve their champagne at all of their formal events and functions, worldwide, to stand behind their product.
Managing Director of the House is Frédéric Mairesse who has been previously Operations Director at LVMH, at Mumm et Perrier Joüet and at Pommery & Lanson.
The first Chef de Cave has been Jean-Philippe Moulin (former Chef de Cave of Ruinart) until 2015 when Guillaume Lete, Deputy Chef de Cave for several years, took over.
The champagnes of Barons de Rothschild are quality wines, which can stand head next to comparable champagnes of the major Champagne Houses.
All the Barons de Rothschild cuvées include some of the best Chardonnays of Champagne, contributing to their elegant, light and refined style. They are matured all for at least four years in the cellars, for a richer expression.
The first champagnes produced were Barons de Rothschild Brut, Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs, and Barons de Rothschild Rosé.
Their blends include about 40% of reserve wine and receive a low dosage of about 6-8 grams per liter to be more palatable but without hiding the expression of their terroirs.
Barons de Rothschild Extra Brut was later added to the range. This champagne, with its very low dosage only 3 g/l is kept for further 9 to 12 months after disgorging, offering a balanced structure on the palate.
Finally, a Barons de Rothschild Vintage (2008, a great year in Champagne) was released, incarnating the elegance of an exceptional year for Chardonnay.
Interview With Frédéric Mairesse
Best Champagne: What is the story behind the Rothschild’s family involvement in the world of champagne, a dynasty usually very present in banking?
Frédéric Mairesse: The Rothschild’s family has been passionate about champagne for a long time. After the war when the Ruinart House was experiencing difficulties, Bertrand Mure the owner of the house met with Philippe de Rothschild to ask him to help support their development. Philippe de Rothschild liked the project very much and invested in the house. Ruinart even made a Baron Philippe de Rothschild cuvée.
Then the Ruinart House started to do business with the Moët & Chandon House and Philippe de Rothschild got close to the Henriot House who made the Baron Philippe de Rothschild champagne for 15 years.
When M. Rothschild passed away, the project was cancelled.In 2000 and the following years, Eric de Rothschild wanted to buy Krug. The 3rd cousin Benjamin could have also bought another Champagne House. Eventually they decided to create their own champagne, as they have a strong name, a rather developed distribution network and the means to do things properly.
Since they were not experts in producing champagne, they contacted people living in the Champagne area and found out that it was easier to produce champagnes with more Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier as these varieties were the easiest to get.
On further consideration, they took the consultants’ opposite view and decided to produce cuvées that were made with a lot of Chardonnay, more complicated and more expensive. When you are Rothschild, you can’t do like everyone else does. But this way you can’t produce millions of bottles. This was fine with them as they prefer producing less but with a focus on a very high quality.
The Barons De Rothschild Champagne House was created in 2005. The first grapes supplies were not easy to get as there was a strong demand on purchase. But we received help from the family’s friends such as Paul Roger, Billecart Salmon and Bollinger.
This way we were able to get in contact with winegrowers and the fact that the Rothschild family is a “terroir” family, a family of Bordeaux winegrowers and that for over a 100 years they have always respected their contract on all the financial elements reassured them.
The first vinifications started in 2005, and the first bottles of Barons de Rothschild brut champagne were sold late 2009: a Blanc De Blancs, a Rosé and a Brut. The Brut is made of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. The Blanc De Blancs comes from Great Vintages such as Mesnil, Avise, Cramant and Oger. The blending of the Rosé is based on 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir.
The House strategy is based on white grapes (Chardonnay); on small volumes; and on a perfect qualitye, because it is very important for the Rothschild family to make quality wine especially for themselves as they consume quite a fair bit of champagne. The family consumes 150 bottles a day.
Barons, friends, bank customers consume 25,000 to 30,000 bottles a year in 60 countries worldwide. Since 2009 they only drink the family’s champagne whereas before they were more inclined towards Krug, Pol Roger and Roederer.
BC: The Barons De Rothschild House doesn’t use Pinot Meunier at all?
FM: No we don’t.
BC: What does a customer find in a bottle of Barons De Rothschild champagne?
FM: He will find the assurance and the guarantee to have a great quality champagne. The Rothschild family has a passion for quality and a clear view: to have a successful House in the Champagne area with small volumes.
Shareholders tell me: “Let’s do what we can to make really good champagnes, and don’t compromise on quality. It doesn’t matter if it’s more expensive to make.”
Champagne Barons de Rothschild is a small team, everything is handmade.
Our Cellar Master is Jean Philippe Moulin who previously worked in the same position at Ruinart. He is a highly skilled expert, and had done almost 40 vinifications before he joined Champagne Barons de Rothschild.
A young oenologist is working with Jean Philippe Moulin so we make sure there will be continuity when he retires.
BC: When can we expect the first Barons De Rothschild vintage cuvée?
FM: The first vintage will be the 2006 and should be available for sale in 2014 or 2015. We strive to do a great vintage in the style of Krug Clos du Mesnil or Salon.
BC: What is your positioning in terms of price?
FM: In Europe the Barons De Rothschild Brut Cuvée retails on average for 42-43€ GST included. The Blanc de Blancs and the Rosé are at 60€ which places us with Ruinart or Bollinger.
BC: What are your volumes, your markets, your ambitions?
FM: The first year (2009) we sold our wines in only 3 countries: Australia, Germany and Japan. This is a very premium distribution, on the Rothschild network.
In a few months, we sold 15,000 bottles in Japan, 4,000 bottles in Australia and 8,000 bottles in Germany.
In 2010 we made our beginnings in 10 countries; in 2011 in 25 countries, in 2012 in 50 countries and in 2013, in 55 countries.
Today Japan is our biggest market with 20% of our sales made over there and a 4 to 5% growth annually.
We started on the US market two years ago and sold 20,000 bottles.
The high potential markets are as usual the Asian continent with Japan, China and especially Hong Kong.
In Europe there are important markets such as England, Germany, Scandinavia; we also have emerging markets such as Brazil in South America.
We produced 500,000 bottles since 2006. We progress slowly but surely to ensure we have the positioning we want in terms of product but also pricing, but we also want to have a quality distribution.
We aim to sell 500,000 bottles in 150 countries in 4 years.
BC: According to several players of the champagne world, brand legitimacy must first be created in France, the main champagne market. What does the French market represent for Champagne Barons De Rothschild?
FM: We started in France a bit later in 2011, to free ourselves from the fact that we had a good exposure abroad with good feedback from customers.
After we sold 100,000 bottles abroad to the best restaurants in Asia and to the best wine shops and restaurants in Europe outside France, quite a lot of French people said they were interested in our champagnes. They saw our wines in Hong Kong, Tokyo, Shanghai, Malaysia, Seoul, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Germany and Denmark.
Today France represents 15% of our volumes and in the future we want to achieve 100,000 bottles and 20% of the sales.
BC: Mr Mairesse you come from the wine world. Is it different compared to champagne?
FM: Yes, codes are different. Wine has a more important technicality when dealing with consumers. I spent 9 years working in wines in the Vallée du Rhône where I was often asked if Grenaches had 15 or 12 metre long roots, if it was a clay soil or a sandy clay soil, if we were to harvest at 5,000 or 4,900 feet/hectare. With champagne, consumers don’t have that many questions on the technicality of the wines.
BC: Do you think that today, consumers are more aware and want to know more about what is in the bottle?
FM: Yes indeed, I think consumers are more interested in learning technical notions about champagne that before. Wine consumers are still more advanced though, but champagne customers are looking for other things, the festive spirit, the show, the shining and sparkling aspect of champagne. These codes are closer to the world of spirits rather than wines. But it doesn’t affect the inherent quality of the product.
BC: How do you think the Global Financial Crisis will affect the world of champagne?
FM: Even if there is a crisis, champagne production (349 millions bottles in 2013) is very small compared to the world’s demand. Today China consumes 2 million bottles of champagne versus 1.5 million a year ago and 1 million 2 years ago. We can imagine that in 10 years China will consume 15 million bottles which corresponds to the current consumption in the USA. I think that growth will spread worldwide and will allow champagne to maintain a reasonable price to share the margin between winegrowers, producers and traders.
BC: Mr Mairesse what would be life without champagne?
FM: Life without champagne would be sad because there is always an emotion in all the family events, parties etc. that are celebrated with champagne and if we didn’t have it, a lot of people would be unhappy.
Menu
Reception
Smoked Salmon Napoleon, Crème Fraiche, Osetra Caviar
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Brut NV
Aperitif
Tuna, Hamachi and Salmon Tartare, Soy, Sesame, Ginger, Tobioko, Popped Sourgum
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Blanc de Blancs NV
Entrée
Duo of Roasted Virginia Lamb Loin and Bacon-crusted Scallop, Morel Mushrooms, Fava Beans, Brandy Lamb Jus, Beurre blanc
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, “Millesime” 2010
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée Spéciale” 2008
Dessert
Virginia Strawberries, Cream Cheese Mousse, Strawberry coulis, micro mint, Phyllo Crisp
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Brut Rosé NV
The Champagnes Frédéric Mairesse Poured
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Brut NV (US$69.99)
The Barons de Rothschild Brut is aerial Champagne that is rich and complex. The blend uses three to four-year old Chardonnays and Pinots Noirs from the best land in Champagne.
This subtle blend produces a wine with fabulously fine bubbles, elegant golden colour and fine, delicate nuances of white fruit. Low dosage and at least six months’ time after disgorging gives this Champagne beautifully balanced structure on the palate that is highly appreciated when served as the aperitif or throughout the meal.
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Blanc de Blancs NV (US$89.99)
The celebrated finesse in the Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs comes from the blend of the greatest Chardonnay grapes in Champagne after at least four years of cellars ageing. Inimitable brilliance, delicate bubbles, luminous golden glints, the Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs reveals notes of fresh fruit and ripe citrus. The very low dosage and long ageing after disgorging (6 to 9 months) enhance its innate quality. The Chardonnay develops its inherent authenticity and purity, for full appreciation for every occasion and at any time throughout the day.
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, “Millesime” 2010 US$145
A perfect balance that exhales hints of white peach and apricot. The peppery and warm finish will strengthen the beautiful balance of this 2010 vintage between generosity and elegance. Our vintage cuvée from the great year 2010, aged on the lees for 7 years, is the result of a selection of Chardonnay 50% and Pinot Noir 50% grapes in the Grands Crus of the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims.
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée Spéciale” 2008 US$239
In the respect of the house style, this millésime symbolizes the elegance of an exceptional year for Chardonnay. A perfect combination that gives this vintage all of its subtlety, thanks to over eight years of ageing in the cellars.
Barons de Rothschild Champagne, Brut Rosé NV US$89.99
Barons de Rothschild Champagne Rosé asserts gorgeous finesse. The Champagne Rosé is blended from the greatest Chardonnay grapes from Champagne and the very best Pinots Noirs made into red wines, after a minimum of three years cellar-ageing. The high proportion of Chardonnay contributes all the finesse and vivaciousness of very great Rosé. The Pinot Noir offers delicate, harmonious complexity that charms all five senses. The Champagne, brilliant with tints of pale pink, aromas of citrus and red berry notes, delights the most demanding palates. The very low dosage and careful ageing after disgorging (3 months) endow this Champagne Rosé with maturity where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir can develop all their authenticity and purity, for full appreciation at every occasion and any time of the day.
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