The last time we visited Rolly Gassman was in 2018. Back then, the tasting had taken place in a small room on the ground floor of the home of the Gassmann family. We had seen the construction site of the new winemaking and tasting facilties. Now, 4 years later, the construction of the huge and most impressive new winemaking and tasting facilities had been finished.
Pierre Gassmann was our host. Understandibly, he did not have as much time for us as in 2018. Yves Beck was there, the famous wine critic from Switzerland, for an introductory tasting of the region`s wines. Still, Pierre showed us around and then left us in the good hands of a staff member for the tasting.
Tasting at Rolly Gassmann in 2018
Rolly Gassmann
The wines from Domaine Rolly Gassmann are the fruit of the meeting of light, earth and subsoil, expressed by the plant cycle of the vine, undoubtedly allowing the miraculous meeting of men and wine. This is how the humility engendered by respect for nature allowed the transmission of a family know-how which found its wine roots as early as 1611. From generation to generation, we have always been independent winegrowers and harvesters in the heart of Alsace in Rorschwihr.
The estate covers 51 hectares of vines, cared for and maintained by a team of 10 people. We make every effort in the systematic search for a balance between the biological activity of the subsoil and the growth of the vine in order to obtain the most subtle and complex grape possible. All the interventions and works are directly linked to the different cosmic rhythms (astral conjunctions, planetary oppositions for example) and by means of various preparations and plants such as nettle, chamomile, horsetail, valerian, bark oak, the dandelion flower … It is these homeopathic infusions and doses that give us the possibility of intervening in the most natural way possible against external aggressions while preserving the intrinsic qualities of the fruit which represents the relationship between the living world of nature and the influence of the universal environment. It is therefore all this conjunction of factors that makes it possible to find in the wine the expression of the identity of the terroir and the particularism of each vintage.
Our Estate is located in the heart of a wine-growing village of 350 inhabitants. The village of Rorschwihr was cited from the year 742 by the Royal Merovingian Estate for its wines. it was also coveted by the largest abbeys and monasteries of central Europe as well as the Merovingian and Carolingian Kings of France (between 700 and 1700) and by various popes (between 1000 and 1400).
The real wealth of the wine-growing area of our 250-hectare village, in addition to its micro climates, lies in the diversity of its 21 types of subsoil, a remarkable and unique geological mosaic predominantly limestone from the primary and tertiary eras. it is this particularity that has enabled our ancestors to highlight and refine the expression of the identity of the 12 very well-defined crus or terroirs of which we already mention the reputation of their wines and their existence from the year 1000 or even 700 for some wines.
This is how we look for the physiological and phenological maturity of the grape with, if possible, the presence of Botrytis cinerea, especially for the Late Harvests and Sélections de Grains Nobles. All the plots are harvested manually and vinified separately. Fermentations are natural with local yeasts and last from 4 to 6 months depending on the type of terroir. Aging lasts for at least 11 months for all 40 wines produced annually.
We market around 20% of our production for export via a single importer per country in general who is looking for unique wines with a strong identity. The remaining 80% are marketed in France for Michelin-starred restaurants (10%), traditional catering (8%, wine merchants (8%) and the rest going to individuals, 45% of which are sold directly to the cellar. We do not supply any supermarkets or hypermarkets in France, but specialized chains and boutiques abroad through our importers.
Finally, our marketing policy is based above all on the maturity of our wines and their geological origin. The production year is high in casks and vats and we have more than 6 years in bottles which improve in our cellars. With aging, the aromas and acidity amplify and become more complex to create a perfect balance of wines that harmonize with the dishes. We have wines from the 1990,1994 and 1996 to 2019 vintages that are not yet on sale because they are too young. We offer for sale wines that are still closed and some that are starting to open with youthful aromas from 2018 to 1994 and others from these same vintages having reached, for some, a degree of maturity allowing them to be tasted and aged. Pair them with dishes without prejudging their significant aging capacity (from 20 to 50 years)
Welcome
Tasting with Yves Beck
Tim Lembke of Cheap Wine Ratings: Rolly Gassmann - Amazing wines from Alsace
Tim Lembke of the Cheap Wine Ratings Blog and his wife participated in
the Germany-South and Alsace Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, which a
visit of Domaine Rolly-Gassmann.
See: The Sun-Kissed South: Germany’s Pinot Noir, the Other Whites, the Culinary Regions - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
He wrote about it on his blog: Rolly Gassmann – Amazing wines from Alsace
Tim Lembke: It has been a few weeks since I’ve posted anything here, the
reason being that I’ve been off traveling. Some of that travel has
been for my day job, but some has been wine-related travel to Germany
and Alsace, France. One of the producers I visited on that trip was
Rolly Gassmann, in Rorschwihr, France, where we spent a couple hours
tasting wines and talking with Pierre Gassmann, going through 39 of the
wines they produce. Yes, 39 wines! They have a huge portfolio.
They produce some pinot noir, but most of their wines are whites like
riesling, pinot blanc, muscat, pinot gris and gewurztraminer. And those
whites were absolutely amazing. I would even say one of the wines,
the Riesling de Rorschwihr, Selection de Grains Nobles, was hands down
the best riesling I’ve ever tasted in my life. Although that one was
100 Euros per bottle, so a bit out of my price range. That said, they
offer many other wines at very reasonable and affordable prices.
I found Pierre Gassmann to be an interesting producer as well. He
applies biodynamic practices in his vineyards, although Rolly Gassmann
isn’t certified as biodynamic. However, he is a founding member of
Vignes Vivantes, an association of producers in Alsace who share
knowledge of vineyard practices that preserve and strengthen the
terroir.
Pierre Gassmann explained his biodynamic practices better than anyone
I’ve heard before. The explanation of biodynamics often sounds like a
blend of organic production, marketing and hocus pocus. But as
Gassmann explained it, he’s trying to do things that make the vines
strong, healthy and able to naturally defend themselves from pests and desaese.
In one of his buildings he had skids covered with herbs drying that he
uses to make “teas” for the vines. He also explained the technique of
placing a cow horn filled with manure in the vineyards. I’ve heard
about this before and it’s one of the practices that makes biodynamics
sound like superstition, but Gassmann explained that the intent of
this technique is to attract certain fungi to the horn in order to
keep them off the vines.
He also talked extensively about the soil types in his vineyards and
explained that there are over 20 different soil types in the region.
Gassmann chooses which vines to plant in which parts of his vineyards
based on the soil type. And then uses his experience and knowledge of
those soils to guide his vineyard practices as well as the wine
production. He knows that grapes from different soil types will require
different time to ferment — for example, grapes from a limestone soil
type will require longer to ferment than grapes from a granite soil
type.
Another part of Gassmann’s approach that was interesting is he doesn’t
try to make each vintage of his wines the same. Rather, he works with
what the vines give him and make the wine as he thinks will be best
each vintage. So a riesling from the same plot may result in wine that
is sweeter one year and drier wine the next year.
Across the board, his wines were great — ranging from really, really good to absolutely mind blowing!
In terms of the bargains to be found, there wasn’t a single riesling,
sylvaner, auxerrois, pinot gris or gewurztraminer I didn’t like. And
several of them were under $20.
I struggled with their pinot noir, although to be fair I don’t know if
that was due to the pinot noir or if my palate wasn’t ready for them.
We started those right after an extensive riesling tasting and I felt
as though my palate never adjusted to the pinot noir.
If you’re ever traveling to Alsace I’d suggest arranging a visit to
Rolly Gassmann — and stock up on their wines. They are in the process
of building a new winery building, including a new tasting room.
They are imported to the US, so you may be able to find some of their wines here at boutique wine shops.
Tour with Pierre Gassmann
Tasting
Bye-bye
Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: All Postings (already posted and forthcoming)
Summary: Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
The Sun-Kissed South: Germany’s Pinot Noir, the Other Whites, the Culinary Regions - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Daniel Wagner at Weingut Wagner-Stempel (VDP) in Siefersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Helmut Dönnhoff and Sascha Johannes Schömel at Weingut Dönnhoff (VDP) in Oberhausen, Nahe - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany
Dinner in a Typical Old Town Mainz Wine Tavern: At Weinhaus Bluhm and at Weinhaus Schreiner - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Cellar
Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Owner/ Winemaker Gesine Roll at
Weingut Weedenborn Weedenborn in Monzenheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South
and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Weingut Jülg (VDP): Lunch in the Wine Tavern with Karin and Werner Jülg and Tasting in the Vineyard with Johannes Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Sven Nieger at Weingut Sven Nieger in Baden-Baden-Varnholt, Ortenau - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Waldgasthaus Scherrhof - Deep in the Black Forest, Local Badenser Cuisine at its Best - Germany-South and
Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner/ Winemaker Robert Schätzle at Weingut Schloss Neuweier (VDP) in Baden-Baden-Neuweier, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Martin Bercher at Weingut Bercher (VDP) in Burkheim, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Matthias Höfflin and Kaylie Magestro at Weingut Höfflin in Bötzingen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Joachim Heger and Winemaker Markus Mleinek at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
The World Class Wines of Alsace
In the world class white wine region Alsace
Cellar Tour with Pierre Gassmann and Tasting at Domaine Rolly-Gassmann in Rorschwihr, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner
with Chef Laurine Gutleben and Restaurant Manager/ Husband Antoine
Bauer, both Owners, at Michelin-rated Restaurant La Veille Forge in
Kaysersberg, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Dirler at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Frédéric Hugel at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard
Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Owners Catherine Faller and Eddy
Leiber-Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace - Germany-South
and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace
Dinner with Chef de Cuisine
Jean-Michel Eblin at 1-star Michelin Restaurant Le Maximilien in
Zellenberg, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Adrien Schoenheitz at Vins Schoenheitz in Wihr-au-Val, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch
at Restaurant 1-star Michelin Restaurant La Nouvelle Auberge in
Wihr-au-Val, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Rémy Gresser at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau, with Rémy Gresser - Alsace Tour 2019 with the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, France
Vineyard
Tour and Tasting with Hans Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP),
Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Lunch at Restaurant 1832 at the Hambacher Schloss - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
in the Courtyard and Cellar Tour with Frank John at Weingut Frank John
in Neustadt an der Weinstraße - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy
WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Andreas Rings at Weingut
Rings (VDP) in Freinsheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andreas Rings - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
with Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze and Riccardo Korner at Weingut Dr.
Bürklin-Wolf (VDP) in Wachenheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022
by ombiasy WineTours
Impromptu Tasting at Weinbar & Vinothek Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf in Deidsheim, with Managing Director Steffen Brahner - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Tasting with Anne and Matthias Gaul at Weingut Matthias Gaul in Grünstadt-Asselheim, Pfalz - - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
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