The visit of Weingut Sven Nieger was quite extensive and intensive.
We met at the house, where Sven lives with his family and where everything started in the garage. Sven joined us on our bus and we drove to his vineyards. From there, we continued to his new winemaking facilities, where we also had a tasting from tank. The tour ended in the tasting room of Sven`s home with a tasting of his wines.
Sven Nieger belongs to the young generation of winemakers who are excellently educated and well travelled. They are the „enfants terribles“ of the wine scene since they follow their very own ideas that sometimes clash with the etablishment and wine laws.
This is a very new winery.
Sven – who did not have the advantage of growing up in a winemaking family - came home to Baden-Baden after earning his degree in oenology from the prestiges Geisenheim university, and after working abroad in Austria and in New-Zealand at Framingham, one of the best producers in New Zealand.
He
founded his own winery and in May 2012 his winery was officially
inaugarated. He leased some vineyards, bought some deserted vineyards on
very steep slopes, and was lucky enough to get some vineyards with
sixty year old vines.
Sven Nieger currently has around 26
acres, among them are prestigious plots such as Mauerberg,
Klosterbergfelsen und Stich den Buben.
Sven Nieger makes wines with a unique taste profile, and he loves making cuvées, which does not sit well with the authorities who assign the AP numbers (The official examination number -AP nr.- is the officially assigned number for the individual labeling of wines or brandys that meet certain quality and taste profiles.) As a result Sven does not present his wines anymore to the regulatory board and hence his wines are all in the „Landwein“ category, and not in the „Qualitätswein“ category.
But wine critics love his wines. I quote the wineguide Falstaff 2018: „Sven Nieger was a sensation with his impressive single vineyard Rieslings from Baden-Baden, but his wines are often denied an AP number. The white wine cuvée „Unbeschwert“ (easy going) tastes as it is called, and the powerful 2015 Riesling will get even better with maturity. Nieger shows a sensitive touch for the Pinot variety and a fine judgement when dealing with the barrique.“
Sven Nieger : a welcome rebel in Baden
During a recent stop over in Baden-Baden, I had time to visit only one winery. The wine region Baden is mainly known for Pinot Noir, or Spätburgunder in German. It is also known as the hottest wine region of Germany. Everything is relative of course if you think of summers in the south of Europe, but still, there is a clear difference between the Spätburgunders of the Ahr, situated further north, and those of Baden, the latter being richer and more full-bodied. Not being a huge fan of big and bold wines, I looked for wine makers who dare to go off the beaten track. When I read about Sven Nieger, I knew that he was my man.
Sven Nieger is a relative newcomer in Baden. He only started in 2010 and did not have the advantage of being born in a family of winemakers. He did, however, Go to the Geisenheim institute and worked in other wineries in Germany and New-Zealand before he started on his own. When he came back to Baden, he had to start from scratch, having no land and no winery. Nieger was able to buy vineyards, amongst which three Grosse Gewächse (grand cru), from older colleagues who had no successors and sold off their lands. He showed me a few pictures of the early days, when he was literally making garage wine. He now has a new space with more professional facilities. “But it was more fun working in the garage”, he laughed.
Despite Baden being a red wine region, Nieger focuses on riesling. “Many people don’t like riesling because it’s too sour, but I want to prove that riesling can also be a wine they like”. That is also why he doesn’t mention the grape on his labels. He wants people to judge the wine without any prejudices they might have about riesling. I told him I’m surprised that he is confronted with such opinions on riesling, the grape after all being the nec plus ultra for certain wine drinkers. “We are in Baden”, he reminded me. “People here are used to wines that are round, creamy, and more full-bodied”. And this is also the second reason why he has rather unconventional labels. The 2014 vintage was not an easy one, producing wines with very high acidity, his rieslings fetching 9g/l instead of the 5,5-6g/l he has in other years. We tasted the Underdog 2014 and indeed the acidity here was high, but not higher than you’d expect in riesling. And then there is Nieger’s rosé : it is bone dry! Again not very much in the tradition of Baden’s wines. The committee judging the region’s wines on their typicity didn’t think much of Nieger’s wines. Eight times he had to send in a bottle. Not wanting to play that game anymore, Nieger decided from then on to declare his wines as Badischer Landwein. And that was the end of that. And of his ambitions to join the VDP at some stage, a German group of top wine makers. When I tasted the 2014 Underdog, it was simply amazing, enormously complex. I think Baden will regret having lost Sven Nieger.
Anyhow, he seems very happy with the path he has chosen. Also no lack of ambitions : “When people drink my wine, I want them to say: This is a Nieger wine.” And so far, things have lifted off quite fast for him, being chosen “newcomer of the year” by Falstaff magazine and getting good press in Germany and abroad.
We started off with his 2016s. His Riesling range consists of three Grosse Gewächse (Grand Crus), one wine that is a blend of grapes of these three vineyards, and one entry level Riesling. Because of the fact his wines are now declared as Badischer Landwein, he cannot mention the names of the vineyards on his labels, and for sure not call them Grosse Gewächse. So he gave them other names : Ungeschminkt (without make up), Underdog, Unbestechlich (incorruptible), Ungeniert (unashamed), and Ungezähmt (untamed). The message is quite clear.
The entry-level Ungeschminkt was already a nice starter, with lots of fruit and refreshing acidity. The Underdog is a step up, being the blend of the three Grosse Gewächse. The grapes come from the foot of the hills, where there is more loam. The wine was still a bit shy though, and still needs to develop a bit further. Of the three Grosse Gewächse, the Unbestechlich was my favorite. Here the vineyard is based on granite soil. Slate or schist are probably the types of terroir that are most associated with Riesling, but granite is not unusual either. Alsace’s Charles Baur describes the acidity in riesling from granite soils as “delicate”. And that’s the perfect word to descibe the acidity in Nieger’s Unbestechlich. It is perfectly integrated, leaving the front stage for a beguiling mix of saffran, summer blossom, green herbs, and orange peel. The saffran very much reminded me of the 2014 Rieslings of Mosel’s Markus Molitor. But whereas most of Molitor’s Rieslings are sweet, semi-sweet or have at least some residual sugar, this Unbestechlich is completely dry. The Ungeniert, also from granite soil, was similar to the Unbestechlich but more timid at this stage, and will benefit from further ageing. The Ungezähmt, finally, does have some sweetness, but also a mineral touch and sufficient acidity to keep it nicely balanced.
It became clear during the tasting how passionate Nieger is about his wines. Even though the 2017s were not on sale yet, I could still taste the whole range. I could also taste the 2015s and certain 2014s. What I thought would be a one hour visit, turned into a three hour one, but time passed as if it were only one hour. Tasting through all these Rieslings was very interesting and clearly showed the differences from one year to another, the 2014s being very fresh and dry, while the 2015s were richer and riper. Nieger decides every year whether he will make the Rieslings dry, off-dry or semi-sweet, letting the vintage decide. While that is probably the best for the wines, that might make it harder for the consumer in terms of knowing what you will get. His experiments do not help to make that any easier, his 2017s having aged in oak barrels, again not a very typical thing to do with Riesling. The oak is not very present, however, only adding a hint of smoke here and there. I’m very curious how the 2017s will evolve, as they were rather shy when I tasted them. Nieger agreed that they are still too young, but is convinced that they will open up with further ageing. That is also why he will put the 2018s on the market before the 2017s, as the 2018s will be more straight-forward and easier to drink, a consequence of the hot vintage.
19 bottles further, aroma’s of homely cooking started entering the room. I visited Sven Nieger because I wanted something different, and not only did I get a fantastic overview of his wines, I also felt the passion and ambition of an untamed wine maker. I am convinced that that will take him very far.
Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: All Postings (already posted and forthcoming)
Summary: Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
The Sun-Kissed South: Germany’s Pinot Noir, the Other Whites, the Culinary Regions - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Daniel Wagner at Weingut Wagner-Stempel (VDP) in Siefersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Helmut Dönnhoff and Sascha Johannes Schömel at Weingut Dönnhoff (VDP) in Oberhausen, Nahe - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany
Dinner in a Typical Old Town Mainz Wine Tavern: At Weinhaus Bluhm and at Weinhaus Schreiner - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Cellar
Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Owner/ Winemaker Gesine Roll at
Weingut Weedenborn Weedenborn in Monzenheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South
and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Weingut Jülg (VDP): Lunch in the Wine Tavern with Karin and Werner Jülg and Tasting in the Vineyard with Johannes Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard
Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Sven Nieger at Weingut Sven Nieger
in Baden-Baden-Varnholt, Ortenau - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner/ Winemaker
Robert Schätzle at Weingut Schloss Neuweier (VDP) in
Baden-Baden-Neuweier, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy
WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar
Tour and Tasting with Martin Bercher at Weingut Bercher (VDP) in
Burkheim, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy
WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Matthias
Höfflin and Kaylie Magestro at Weingut Höfflin in Bötzingen,
Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar
Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Joachim Heger and Winemaker
Markus Mleinek at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl,
Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
The World Class Wines of Alsace
In the world class white wine region Alsace
Cellar Tour with Pierre Gassmann and Tasting at Domaine Rolly-Gassmann in Rorschwihr, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Massive Tasting at Domaine Rolly-Gassmann in Rorschwihr, Alsace, with Pierre Gassmann - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner
with Chef Laurine Gutleben and Restaurant Manager/ Husband Antoine
Bauer, both Owners, at Michelin-rated Restaurant La Veille Forge in
Kaysersberg, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Dirler at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Frédéric Hugel at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard
Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Owners Catherine Faller and Eddy
Leiber-Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace - Germany-South
and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace
Dinner with Chef de Cuisine
Jean-Michel Eblin at 1-star Michelin Restaurant Le Maximilien in
Zellenberg, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Adrien Schoenheitz at Vins Schoenheitz in Wihr-au-Val, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch
at Restaurant 1-star Michelin Restaurant La Nouvelle Auberge in
Wihr-au-Val, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Rémy Gresser at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau, with Rémy Gresser - Alsace Tour 2019 with the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, France
Vineyard
Tour and Tasting with Hans Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP),
Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Lunch at Restaurant 1832 at the Hambacher Schloss - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
in the Courtyard and Cellar Tour with Frank John at Weingut Frank John
in Neustadt an der Weinstraße - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy
WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Andreas Rings at Weingut
Rings (VDP) in Freinsheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andreas Rings - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
with Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze and Riccardo Korner at Weingut Dr.
Bürklin-Wolf (VDP) in Wachenheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022
by ombiasy WineTours
Impromptu Tasting at Weinbar & Vinothek Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf in Deidsheim, with Managing Director Steffen Brahner - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Tasting with Anne and Matthias Gaul at Weingut Matthias Gaul in Grünstadt-Asselheim, Pfalz - - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
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