Today we explored the Kaiserstuhl region. It is a very special place in the German wine regions landscape. We visited 3 producers: Weingut Dr. Bercher, Weingut Höfflin and Weingut Dr. Heger, before moving on to Alsace.
Kaiserstuhl Region
Importer Schatzi Wines: The Kaiserstuhl (named for its resemblance to an emperor’s throne) is a compact zone of some 10,000 acres of vines planted around the stump of an extinct volcano. It rises above the Rhine river valley, just east of Alsace. Geologically speaking, it is a rare place indeed. Volcanoes formed here during the late Tertiary period, at the end of a long succession of eruptions, starting in the Cretaceous. Heavily eroded volcanic vents mark the landscape and the rocks that remain are of the Miocene, dating 16 to 19 million years before the present. These volcanic rocks are of alkali-carbonate structure and contain elements of magnesium iron silicate, which can be found here as the gem peridot, a crystalline material that weathers slowly and provides good drainage.
We started the day with a visit of Weingut Bercher (VDP) in Burkheim, Kaiserstuhl, Baden. Martin Bercher was our host. He showed us the wine cellar and led a seated tasting.
Weingut Bercher
The history of the Bercher family in the Kaiserstuhl region can be traced back to 1457 when the family moved from Switzerland to Burkheim after the end of the Thirty Year War. In 1756 Franz-Michael Bercher built the manor house with the vaulted underground cellar which has since been the seat of the winery. Today it is the 10 th generation of the Bercher family, brothers Martin (vineyard manager) and Arne (winemaking) that is at the helm of the estate.
The 62 acres of vineyards are planted mostly with Burgundy grapes: 40% Pinot Noir, 23% Pinot Gris, 17% Pinot Blanc, some Chardonnay and also some Rieslings.
The Kaiserstuhl region is the warmest grape growing area in Germany and the soils consist of mineral-rich, chalky loess on top of volcanic subsoils.
Weingut
Bercher belongs to the top estates in Germany with 4 stars (out of 5) in
the 2018 Vinum wine guide for Germany. They also have an eclectic
portfolio of grape varieties including pinot noir, pinot gris, pinot
blanc, chenin blanc, scheurebe, riesling, muscat and chardonnay.
The Western Emperor`s Chair/ Kaiserstuhl has the Volcanic Soils to which our vineyard owes its top Locations
VDP: What is so special about your winery?
Martin Bercher: Certainly the long family tradition. We are the tenth generation of winegrowers here. And the history of the Berchers can be traced back even further, to 1457 to be precise. The coat of arms you see on our labels also dates from this period. The family was then based in Switzerland, and after the Thirty Years' War they moved to Kaiserstuhl in Burkheim. Apropos Burkheim: The location of our winery in Burkheimer Mittelstadt is something I would definitely call something special. Such a well-preserved historical town centre is not very common in Germany, but the small town has remained very small and lies very picturesquely in the cultural landscape of the Kaiserstuhl. Right in the middle of the middle town is our main building, which was built in 1756. It has an imposing wooden barrel cellar with a three-volute cross vault in which we still work.
Arne Bercher: Well, and certainly the Kaiserstuhl itself must also be one of our specialities. This is truly a unique landscape, which is not only beautiful, but also has a very special climate and flora and fauna. And of course the western Kaiserstuhl has the volcanic soils to which our winery owes its top sites, the VDP.ERSTE LAGE® Burkheimer Feuerberg as well as the VDP.GROSSEN LAGEN® HASLEN and the KESSELBERG. Many who know our wines will certainly think of the Feuerberg at Bercher.
VDP: What is your winery philosophy? Which wine style do you aim for?
Martin Bercher:
For us, the artisanal approach to wine making is important. To make a
good wine, it takes a lot of careful manual work. To this end, we try to
combine what previous generations have given us in terms of knowledge
with modern technology. As a result, the wines should taste, simply put,
"like Kaiserstuhl". Soil embossing therefore plays a major role. We
strive for a good storability according to the classification level and
always see good wines as a food companion. We therefore make sure that
the wines are not too powerful, but always retain their elegance.
Arne Bercher:
The drinking flow is also important, so the wine should not only
impress at the first sip, but also give pleasure at the second or third
glass ... I think that this style can be tasted very well from our Pinot
Gris. The Pinot Gris also makes the race as our favourite grape
variety.
"THE FLOW OF THE DRINK IS IMPORTANT, SO THE WINE SHOULD NOT ONLY IMPRESS AT THE FIRST SIP, BUT ALSO GIVE JOY AT THE SECOND OR THIRD GLASS."
VDP: Which of your wines would you recommend to someone who does not yet know your winery - as an introduction, so to speak?
Arne Bercher: When
it comes to demonstrating our basic approach with a wine, I would say:
The Burkheimer Feuerberg Grauburgunder VDP.ERSTE LAGE®. For me, this is the prototype of a Pinot Gris from the volcanic weathered soil of the Kaiserstuhl.
VDP: Which wine are you particularly proud of?
Martin Bercher: Hm, good question ... This will probably be a photo finish between the HASLEN Pinot Gris GG and the KESSELBERG Pinot Noir GG. They have been fighting for first place for quite some time ...
VDP: Why did you become a vintner?
Arne Bercher: The most important impulse certainly came from the generation before us, who lived the profession with passion. All energy was put into getting the best out of the vineyard and the cellar. This intensive and even successful work has already been very impressive. Of course, later there were still very important suggestions and encounters in the training companies, during studies or during stays abroad. Besides, this job is just fun. At the end of the winegrowing year there is a product that has a lot to do with the person who is responsible for it. You have the opportunity to develop your own style and perhaps also yourself, you can try out many things and are in a stimulating exchange with good colleagues.
VDP: How do you combine tradition and innovation?
Martin Bercher: The old is not good simply because it is old, and the same applies to the new. A conscious cultivation of tradition can certainly protect you from simply following every new trend. This gives the work a certain stability and continuity. But of course there is nothing that cannot be improved. At the same time, change must not be made simply for the sake of change. Both tradition and innovation must therefore always be questioned anew, neither has its justification in itself. The one can thus serve as a corrective for the other, so to speak. Among the traditions worth preserving are certainly the selective hand-picking and the ageing in large wooden barrels.
Bye-bye
Thanks for a wonderful cellar tour and tasting.
Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: All Postings (already posted and forthcoming)
Summary: Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
The Sun-Kissed South: Germany’s Pinot Noir, the Other Whites, the Culinary Regions - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Daniel Wagner at Weingut Wagner-Stempel (VDP) in Siefersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Helmut Dönnhoff and Sascha Johannes Schömel at Weingut Dönnhoff (VDP) in Oberhausen, Nahe - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany
Dinner in a Typical Old Town Mainz Wine Tavern: At Weinhaus Bluhm and at Weinhaus Schreiner - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Cellar
Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Owner/ Winemaker Gesine Roll at
Weingut Weedenborn Weedenborn in Monzenheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South
and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Weingut Jülg (VDP): Lunch in the Wine Tavern with Karin and Werner Jülg and Tasting in the Vineyard with Johannes Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Sven Nieger at Weingut Sven Nieger in Baden-Baden-Varnholt, Ortenau - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Waldgasthaus Scherrhof - Deep in the Black Forest, Local Badenser Cuisine at its Best - Germany-South and
Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner/ Winemaker Robert Schätzle at Weingut Schloss Neuweier (VDP) in Baden-Baden-Neuweier, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar
Tour and Tasting with Martin Bercher at Weingut Bercher (VDP) in
Burkheim, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy
WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Matthias
Höfflin and Kaylie Magestro at Weingut Höfflin in Bötzingen,
Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar
Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Joachim Heger and Winemaker
Markus Mleinek at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl,
Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
The World Class Wines of Alsace
In the world class white wine region Alsace
Cellar Tour with Pierre Gassmann and Tasting at Domaine Rolly-Gassmann in Rorschwihr, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Massive Tasting at Domaine Rolly-Gassmann in Rorschwihr, Alsace, with Pierre Gassmann - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner
with Chef Laurine Gutleben and Restaurant Manager/ Husband Antoine
Bauer, both Owners, at Michelin-rated Restaurant La Veille Forge in
Kaysersberg, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Dirler at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Frédéric Hugel at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard
Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Owners Catherine Faller and Eddy
Leiber-Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace - Germany-South
and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace
Dinner with Chef de Cuisine
Jean-Michel Eblin at 1-star Michelin Restaurant Le Maximilien in
Zellenberg, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Adrien Schoenheitz at Vins Schoenheitz in Wihr-au-Val, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch
at Restaurant 1-star Michelin Restaurant La Nouvelle Auberge in
Wihr-au-Val, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Rémy Gresser at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau, with Rémy Gresser - Alsace Tour 2019 with the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, France
Vineyard
Tour and Tasting with Hans Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP),
Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Lunch at Restaurant 1832 at the Hambacher Schloss - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
in the Courtyard and Cellar Tour with Frank John at Weingut Frank John
in Neustadt an der Weinstraße - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy
WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Andreas Rings at Weingut
Rings (VDP) in Freinsheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andreas Rings - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
with Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze and Riccardo Korner at Weingut Dr.
Bürklin-Wolf (VDP) in Wachenheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022
by ombiasy WineTours
Impromptu Tasting at Weinbar & Vinothek Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf in Deidsheim, with Managing Director Steffen Brahner - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Tasting with Anne and Matthias Gaul at Weingut Matthias Gaul in Grünstadt-Asselheim, Pfalz - - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
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