Friday, April 28, 2023

WeinGuide Falstaff Deutschland 2023: The 5 Best German Lemberger (Blaufränkisch)

 
Lemberger in Germany
 
Lemberger, also known as "Blauer Limberger" and "Blaufränkisch", grows in a warm climate and wind-protected areas, since bud-burst is early and it ripens late. In very good sites, this Württemberg speciality yields wines with excellent quality. It does well in various soil types, especially fertile, deep, loess-loam soils.

For years we have been seeing a gradual but steady increase in the area under vines for Lemberger. It has expanded from 500 ha in 1970 to 1,900 ha in 2019. It is almost exclusively cultivated in Württemberg, where it accounts for about 16% of the total vineyard area compared with 1,9% in Germany overall.

History

Officially classified under the name “Blauer Limberger”, this red grape variety also goes by the synonyms “Lemberger” and “Blaufränkisch”. The late-ripening Lemberger probably originated in vineyards on the lower stretches of the Danube River. The grape was documented in Austria in the second half of the 18th century and is cultivated there to this day (as Blaufränkisch) in Burgenland and near Vienna. In Hungary it is known as Kékfrankos. In the 19th century a “wine improvement society” advocated replacing high-yielding varieties with high-quality grapes (such as Lemberger) in the Kingdom of Württemberg. Indeed, Lemberger wines from Württemberg were the favorite of the first president of the Federal Repubic of Germany, Theodor Heuss, and it is said that the variety was equally as popular with Bismarck and Napoleon.

WeinGuide Falstaff Deutschland 2023: The 5 Best Lemberger

2. 2020 Weingut Karl Haidle, Stetten Gehrnhalde, Lemberger GG - 95+ Falstaff Points




Pictures: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Karl Haidle in Kernen-Stetten, Württemberg, with Moritz Haidle - Germany-East Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture, History - Berlin, Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen, Württemberg, Franken

3. 2015 Weingut G.A. Heinrich, Heilbronn Vorderer Hundsberg Lemberger Trocken - 95 Falstaff Points

4. 2020 Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann, Fellbach Lämmler, Lemberger GG - 94+ Falstaff Points
 
Pictures: At Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann with Rainer Schnaitmann. See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), German
 
5. 2019 Weingut Dautel Cleebronn Michaelsberg, Lemberger GG - 94+ Falstaff Points 

Picture: Ernst Dautel and Christian Schiller at Weingut Dautel

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
 

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2022 Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in McLean, Virginia, USA 

Christian Schiller`s SCHILLER-WINE Blog on Corking Wines` Top 101 Wine Writers of 2020 List

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Massive Tasting of Bordeaux 1982 - the Vintage that made Robert Parker a Star, USA/ France

Carl Willner, Christian Schiller and Ken Bensley of the German Wine Society/ Washington DC Chapter (Re-)elected to the National Board, USA, Germany 

The American Wine Society National Conference 2022 in Bellevue/ Seattle, Washington State - Seen through Christian Schiller`s Camera Lens

The End of the "Grosslage" in Germany - Seminar about the new German Wine Law of 2022 at the 2022 American Wine Society National Conference in Bellevue/ Seattle, Washington State, led by Annette Schiller

Christian Schiller: Re-elected to the Board of the "Weinfeder", the Association of German Wine Journalists

2022 Holiday Party of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) at the Cosmos Club in Washington DC Downtown, USA/ Germany

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Germany's Weingut Künstler #2 on James Suckling's List of the Top 100 Wines of the World (2022)

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Thursday, April 27, 2023

David Williams in The Guardian on April 18, 2023: What’s the Most Exciting Country for Wine in the World right now? Germany

David Williams on Wine, The Guardian Tuesday April 18, 2023

What’s the most exciting country for wine in the world right now? Germany

The Liebfraumilch years are long gone. From seriously good riesling to juicy pinot noir, Germany now has plenty to offer

... I am not quite sure when it happened. There was no moment of Damascene conversion, no single palate-altering bottle or preconception-shredding cellar tour but some time over the past couple of years, the weight of evidence (measured in the strictly scientific unit of empty bottles per week) began to point to an unexpected conclusion: the single most improved, exciting, and all-round high-performing wine country in the world right now might be Germany. ...

Riesling, in all its forms (and the best classic off-dry, medium- and fully sweet styles from the Mosel remain among the wonders of the wine world) still accounts for many of my favourite German bottles. Butthere has been a remarkable improvement in Germany’s other styles. Most impressive is the pinot noir (or spätburgunder), which has emerged in the 21st century as a genuine challenger to burgundy. The country’s best sekt sparkling wines are likewise a much more serious proposition, offering a steely alternative to champagne. ...

For the whole article, see here.  

See also: Jancis Robinson, Financial Times, March 25, 2023: "German Wine has Completely Transformed itself in Recent Years, but Fine-wine Buyers seem Stubbornly Unaware of the Fact." One of them is Eric Asimov, the Wine Critic of the New York Times 

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Tour and Tasting at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Cellar Master Jean Christoph - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Cellar Tour and Tasting with Daniel Wagner at Weingut Wagner-Stempel (VDP) in Siefersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting with Helmut Dönnhoff and Sascha Johannes Schömel at Weingut Dönnhoff (VDP) in Oberhausen, Nahe - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours

2022 Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in McLean, Virginia, USA 

Christian Schiller`s SCHILLER-WINE Blog on Corking Wines` Top 101 Wine Writers of 2020 List

The Wines of Germany: Presentation by Annette Schiller at the German Embassy in Washington DC/ Consular Conference December 2021

Massive Tasting of Bordeaux 1982 - the Vintage that made Robert Parker a Star, USA/ France

Carl Willner, Christian Schiller and Ken Bensley of the German Wine Society/ Washington DC Chapter (Re-)elected to the National Board, USA, Germany 

The American Wine Society National Conference 2022 in Bellevue/ Seattle, Washington State - Seen through Christian Schiller`s Camera Lens

The End of the "Grosslage" in Germany - Seminar about the new German Wine Law of 2022 at the 2022 American Wine Society National Conference in Bellevue/ Seattle, Washington State, led by Annette Schiller

Christian Schiller: Re-elected to the Board of the "Weinfeder", the Association of German Wine Journalists

2022 Holiday Party of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) at the Cosmos Club in Washington DC Downtown, USA/ Germany

All Sorts of Sparklers: How do the Bubbles get into that Bottle? - Tasting at the American Wine Society (NoVa Chapter) led by Annette Schiller 

Germany's Weingut Künstler #2 on James Suckling's List of the Top 100 Wines of the World (2022)

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Wednesday, April 26, 2023

Rioja Winemaker Dinner at Joselito Casa de Comidas in Washington DC with Bodegas Altanza





Annette and I enjoyed a wonderful Rioja winemaker dinner at the Spanish restaurant Joselito Casa de Comidas in Washington DC on Pennsylvania Ave SE.

The event was orchestrated by General Manger/ Sommelier Gustavo Iniesta, who worked for many years at Taberna Del Alabardero before joining Joselito Casa de Comidas.

Joselito Casa de Comidas is a bib Gourmand Michelin restaurant, owned and run by Javier Candon, who also owns and runs SER in Ballston.

Chef David Sierra, who is from Madrid, Spain, cooked in Spanish kitchens until he moved to the US in 2009 to work at the Washington DC. location of Taberna del Alabardero. Locally, he has also cooked at Fiola Mare in Georgetown and SER Restaurant in Ballston. 

Bodegas Altanza is a 300 hectare estate in Rioja Alta, founded in 1998. Their wines are made in a more modern style from 100% Tempranillo. Schneider`s on the Hill, a leading Washington DC retail store, imports the Bodegas Altanza wines directly.

The wines were presented by Altanza’s Export Director Alberto Anoz Varea and Terry Brown of Schneider's.


Invitation by Schneider's

We have partnered with Joselito Casa de Comidas, the acclaimed Spanish restaurant, to bring you a gastronomic experience like no other. 

Chef David Sierra has prepared four delicious courses expertly paired by Sommelier Gustavo Iniesta to complement the unique flavors of Bodegas Altanza wines. 

Altanza’s Export Director, Alberto Anoz Varea, will guide you through each wine providing insight into the winemaking traditions and terroir of Rioja.

Joselito Casa de Comidas
660 Pennsylvania Avenue Southeast
Washington, DC 20003

Thursday, April 20th at 6:30 pm
$120.00 per person (Taxes and gratuity included) 

MENU




 

WELCOME 

Chupito de gazpacho andaluz
Cold tomato soup “gazpacho” shot
Brocheta de salpicon de mariscos
Shrimp, octopus, mussel and pepper & onions skewer
Endivia con brandada de Bacalao
Endive stuffed with cod brandade 

Lealtanza Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ~ D.O.Ca. Rioja






FIRST COURSE 

Crema de puerros y almejas, huevas de salmon
Vichissoise with clams, salmon roe

Lealtanza Alma bohemia Rose 2021 ~ D.O.Ca. Rioja





SECOND COURSE

Salmon con salsa bearnesa y brócoli salteado
Salmon with bearnaise sauce, sauteed broccoli

Lealtanza Crianza 2018 ~ D.O.Ca. Rioja
Lealtanza Gran Reserva 2012 ~ D.O.Ca. Rioja






THIRD COURSE

Filete de venado, patatas risoladas, reducción de moras
Venison Trip-tip, buttered potatoes, blackberries demi-glaze

Lealtanza Reserva Especial 2010 ~ D.O.Ca. Rioja
Lealtanza Reserva Artist Collection Velazquez 2011 ~ D.O.Ca. Rioja 





FOURTH COURSE 

Seleccion de quesos con su guarnición
Spanish cheese selection with garnish

UVA por UVA de Altanza 2019 ~ D.O.Ca. Rioja



Bodegas Altanza

Bodeags Altanza began its story in 1998 as synonym of quality and dedicated exclusively to top Reserva wines. Since then, their goal has been to offer the best possible quality wine at a sensible price.

Located in Fuenmayor (Rioja Alta), they try to show daily how to combine tradition and modernity.

Bodegas Altanza is a winery that emerges being distinguished for their identity, passion, know-how and creativity producing great wines like the Collection of Spanish Artists. Their wines are made in a more modern style from 100% Tempranillo. The wines are fermented using natural yeasts and then aged in entirely French oak barrels which are renewed every 5 years

All of their reds are produced with 100% Tempranillo grapes. The “queen” of Rioja autochthonous varieties and the most popular in Spain – though each area gives it a different name – is Tempranillo. It is because it creates wines with good body and structure. It has a slower evolution than other varieties, which makes it ideal for aging. Although its derivation from pinot noir has been questioned, what’s certain is its descent from two varieties which were once at home in the Ebro valley. Their crossbreeding in the Middle Ages gave birth to the Tempranillo. It requires a cool, temperate climate during the year, with high temperatures in the summer for the vine to give optimum results with good acidity. Though it has a relatively late budding, its berries develop faster than those of other varieties, hence its name (“temprano” which means “early”).

Their estate spans 300 ha. (740 acres), 220 of which are vineyards. The estate provides sixty to seventy percent of the total amount of grapes they need; the rest follows a strict selection process.






Joselito Casa de Comidas: MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

Pull up a chair at this intimate restaurant where portraits line the walls and everyone feels like family. Joselito’s offers a spectrum of appealing Spanish favorites that are doled out with extra love. In fact, this kitchen even encourages you to order based on your appetite: go for the tapa portion to sample a wide variety or commit to a larger portion if you’ve spent the morning spinning.

These talented chefs aren’t forging a new path; instead, they’re cooking only with the most top-notch ingredients and tender, loving care. Start things off with the velvety smooth chicken liver terrine before tucking in to the creamy delicious “pasta” topped with jumbo crab, sea urchin, pimiento and shrimp. Finish with sopa de chocolate blanco for a decadent treat.

Joselito Casa de Comidas: Washington Post

On my last trip to Spain, I sat down for lunch one day in Barcelona at 1 p.m. and didn’t leave until almost 5. Not every meal was like that, but if there’s one thing I admire about the Spaniards, it’s the seriousness with which they approach leisure, matters of the table included. Whenever I want to relive that Iberian intensity here at home, I head to this dignified yet easygoing oasis on the Hill. The black-and-white dining room feels timeless, and I appreciate how the mirrors at the bar are tilted so that even customers at the counter can appreciate the collection of family photos on the walls. The hours take into account that some people can eat lunch at 3 p.m., and the menu is mindful that appetites vary, hence the three portion sizes of most dishes. Point just about anywhere on the list and you’ll find something to like: smoked fish, orange and onion tied with a mustard seed dressing, scarlet peppers swollen with creamed spinach, winy lamb sweetbreads hit with orange zest and scattered on a fluffy hedge of couscous. Every neighborhood should be so lucky. 
 
Javier Candon | Proprietor

Javier oversees front and back of the house operations at Joselito Casa de Comidas. He has more than 20 years of experience with both casual and fine dining establishments.

His previous experience includes international work with leading hotels and world-renowned restaurants throughout Europe and the Caribbean, including the Hotel Melia Sevilla, Taberna del Alabardero, and Casa del Duque Vinoteca and Restaurant in Spain; Hotel Relais & Chateau Mas D’Artiny in France; and the Hotel RIU Melao and RIU Palace Macao in the Dominican Republic.

Javier graduated with honors from Europe’s prestigious Escuela Superior de Hosteleria de Sevilla. A native of Spain, he is fluent in Spanish, Portuguese, French, and English. When not at Joselito, Javier is at his other restaurant, SER, in Arlington, VA. In his spare time, he fervently watches Real Madrid games, cooks with his two children, and enjoys beautiful meals with his wife Christiana.

David Sierra | Executive Chef

David was born in Madrid and at an early age discovered his passion for the kitchen while cooking with his mother.  He studied culinary arts and spent ten years working in Spain alongside renowned chefs and restaurants before making the journey to the United States in 2009.

During his time stateside, David has put his culinary skills to work at several of DC’s most prestigious restaurants, including the classic Spanish restaurant, Taberna del Alabardero, the critically acclaimed Fiola Mare, and most recently, SER Restaurant in Arlington, VA.

At Joselito, David’s creative and imaginative personality comes to life.  By recalling the feelings and flavors he experiences in Spain, he applies a unique, modern twist on some of the most traditional and beloved Spanish recipes.  He is passionate about serving guests only the best and freshest ingredients that truly showcase the delectable flavors of Spanish cuisine.  David believes that the food he prepares is a way of providing guests with a special look into his heritage and the culture that treasures sharing wonderful meals with family and friends.

When David isn’t working, he loves exploring new restaurants, visiting the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, and discovering quiet, serene spots where he can escape from the noise and rigors of city life. He is also is a big fan of rock classics like Queen and Led Zeppelin.  Like a true Spaniard, David believes that anytime is a good time to savor a nice glass of red wine with family and friends.

Gustavo Iniesta | General Manager

Gustavo Iniesta was born in La Mancha Region of Spain and grew up in a household that was passionate about food and wine.  He became a sommelier in 2003 when he graduated from the Chamber of Commerce in Madrid.

Gustavo has an extensive background in fine dining and hospitality.  While in Spain, he worked with the prestigious Grupo Lezama from Taberna del Alabardero in Madrid, as well as with the Michelin star Restaurant Sant Pau in Barcelona under the tutelage of renown Chef Carme Ruscalleda. He also held the position of Wine Director for a five star hotel in Barcelona.

In 2007, Gustavo crossed the Atlantic to rejoin the Grupo Lezama in Washington, DC, as Taberna del Alabardero’s Wine Director/Sommelier.  In that post, his wine list was awarded “Best Wine Program in the DMV” from the Restaurant Association of Washington area in 2011.

Throughout Gustavo’s career, he has had the honor to work with well known personalities in the wine industry including Carlos Falco, Robert Parker, Pierre Lurton, Mariano Garcia, among others, as well with notables from the political and social world in Madrid, Barcelona, and Washington, DC. When Gustavo is not wining and dining Joselito's guests, he enjoys wining and dining with his friends and family.




Bye-bye



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