What’s the most exciting country for wine in the world right now? Germany
The Liebfraumilch years are long gone. From seriously good riesling to juicy pinot noir, Germany now has plenty to offer
... I am not quite sure when it happened. There was no
moment of Damascene conversion, no single palate-altering bottle or
preconception-shredding cellar tour but some time over the past couple
of years, the weight of evidence (measured in the strictly scientific
unit of empty bottles per week) began to point to an unexpected
conclusion: the single most improved, exciting, and all-round
high-performing wine country in the world right now might be Germany. ...
Riesling, in all its forms (and the best classic off-dry, medium- and
fully sweet styles from the Mosel remain among the wonders of the wine
world) still accounts for many of my favourite German bottles. Butthere
has been a remarkable improvement in Germany’s other styles. Most
impressive is the pinot noir (or spätburgunder), which has emerged in
the 21st century as a genuine challenger to burgundy. The country’s best
sekt sparkling wines are likewise a much more serious proposition,
offering a steely alternative to champagne. ...
For the whole article, see here.
See also: Jancis Robinson, Financial Times, March 25, 2023: "German Wine has Completely Transformed itself in Recent Years, but Fine-wine Buyers seem Stubbornly Unaware of the Fact." One of them is Eric Asimov, the Wine Critic of the New York Times
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