Thursday, April 13, 2023

Bidlabu - a New Michelin Star Restaurant in Frankfurt, Germany, with Chef/ Co-owner André Rickert





The new Michelin Guide Deutschland 2023 was released on April 5, 2023. There are now 334 Michelin-starred restaurants in Germany, the largest number ever.
 
3-star Restaurants
 
Baiersbronn/ Bareiss
Baiersbronn/ Schwarzwaldstube
Berlin/ Rutz
Drais/ Waldhotel Sonnora
Hamburg/ The Table Kevin Fehling
München/ JAN
Perl/ Victor's Fine Dining by christian bau
Piesport/ schanz.restaurant
Rottach-Egern/ Restaurant Überfahrt Christian Jürgens
Wolfsburg/ Aqua
 
2-star Restaurants
 
There are now 50 2-star restaurants, including 8 new 2-star restaurants.  

1-star Restaurants
 
There are now 274 1-star restaurants, including 34 new 1-star restaurants

New 1-star Restaurant: Bidlabu in Frankfurt
 
One of the 34 new 1-star restaurants is Bidlabu in Frankfurt. Annette and I had dinner there recently and I posted about it on schiller-wine. I am re-releasing the posting (see below).

Chef André Rickert is a Juan Amador disciple, who is currently cooking in Vienna, Austria, where he is the chef/ owner of at Amador, the first restaurant in Austria to be awared 3 stars by Michelin. Currently Amador is one of the 2 restaurants in Austria that got 100/ 100 points by Falstaff. Juan Amador was based in the Frankfurt area before moving to Vienna/ Austria. In 2008, his restaurant Amador in Langen near Frankfurt was awarded 3 Michelin stars. 
 
Chef André Rickert underwent his initial apprenticeship at Thomas Bühner when the latter was still cooking in Dortmund. 
 
Before taking over Bidlabo, Chef André Rickert headed the small kitchen team of Weinsinn, where he was awarded a Michelin star in 2012. In 2017, Weinsinn relocated from the Westend to the Bahnhofsviertel (Central Station Area), with Chef André Rickert leaving Weinsinn.

Pete Wells in the New York Times on Weinsinn and Chef André Rickert (October 23, 2013)

... Mr. Rickert has a modernist’s skill set and a modernist’s talent for combining the serious and the playful. Look what he does to ratatouille. Even its fans have to admit that the dish, a lump of stewed vegetables mired in a tar pit of olive oil, is usually no great beauty. Mr. Rickert’s version is a colorful, bright, edible garden, a field of couscous across which he plants black olives, shards of feta, a bright green mound of basil ice cream and warm cherry tomatoes that dissolved into sweet pulp on my tongue like berries in a pie.

The ingredients were strewn all across the plate, but the flavors were firmly rooted. That was the case, too, with a dessert of late-summer damson plums that appeared in three guises: stuffed into a tender dumpling, frozen into sorbet and poached with cinnamon syrup.

Weinsinn is compact, with only 35 seats in two small dining rooms. So is Mr. Rickert’s menu of three appetizers, three main courses and three desserts. The wine list, on the other hand, goes on for page after page, although there is a simpler way. We asked the sommelier, Jens Gabelmann, to choose for us. He sized up our table at a glance and brought us just the wine we might have asked for if we had been able to put our wishes into words.


Picture: Chef André Rickert and his Team at Weinsinn in 2012. See: Lunch and Beaujolais at Weinsinn in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
 
Bidlabu - MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View (2023)

One MICHELIN Star: High quality cooking, worth a stop!

Located in the heart of the city – albeit somewhat tucked away – this appealing bistro is a lively place with really good food. André Rickert (known from the "Weinsinn") forms the dual leadership in the kitchen together with chef Patrick Löhl. Their culinary style is pleasingly down to earth yet sophisticated in terms of craftsmanship. Vegetarians are also well catered for. The service comes courtesy of a laid-back yet highly competent front-of-house-team who provide astute wine recommendations for the set menu. Tip: book early to avoid disappointment!

Dinner at Bidlabu, 15 Points Gault Millau, in Frankfurt, with GM/ Sommelier Dietmar Fritz and Chef André Rickert, Germany 
 
Annette and I had dinner at Bidlabu recently and I posted about it on schiller-wine. I am re-releasing the posting here.

Picture: Dinner at Bidlabu, 15 Points Gault Millau, in Frankfurt, with GM/ Sommelier Dietmar Fritz and Chef André Rickert, Germany
 
Bidlabu is a top 10 restaurant in Frankfurt downtown with 15/ 20 points in the Gault Millau Deutschland. It is owned and run by GM/ Sommelier Dietmar Fritz and Chef André Rickert.
 
Annette Schiller and I enjoyed a wonderful date-night dinner there last night, with amazing food and wines. 
 
Hidden in a dark alley off Goethestrasse, Frankfurt’s high-end shopping street, bidlabu provides fine dining in a relaxed and casual atmosphere. You have a choice between 4 (Euro 60), 5, 6 and 7 (Euro 90) courses.
 
Due to covid, all seats have been moved outside with 2 large awnings providing protection in case of rain (as we needed yesterday for about 15 minutes).

Michelin Guide Deutschland 2021: This extremely pleasant little bistro is a tucked away in the heart of the city, just around the corner from the shopping street Fressgass. The owner and the chef are experts through and through, as can be seen not least from the tasty, ambitious market cuisine, e. g. the char, pumpkin, green apple and watercress. Very fairly priced lunch menu. 

In the Michelin Guide Deutschland 2021, bidlabu is listed with a Michelin plate. In the Gault Millau Guide Deutschland 2021, it has 15/ 20 stars. 















Pictures: Dinner at Bidlabu, 15 Points Gault Millau, in Frankfurt, with GM/ Sommelier Dietmar Fritz and Chef André Rickert, Germany

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