Château Figeac Wine Dinner at The Henri in Washington DC with Decanter Wine Writer Panos Kakaviatos, USA/ France

Annette and I attended an outstanding Château Figeac tasting dinner at The Henri in Washington DC. The dinner was supposed to be co-hosted by wine writer (Decanter) Panos Kakaviatos and Figeac GM Frédéric Faye, but the latter got stuck in Canada and was unable to participate in the tasting. We had 6 wines. 

Invitation

 

Dear Anette and Christian, 

Hope you have been well! 

 

Sorry not to have been in touch, as it has been far too long since we last shared wine! 

 

As Covid is becoming a (hopefully) distant memory, I am starting again with my wine dinners. 

 

And since it was promoted to premier grand cru classé A, Château Figeac is coming to town with director Frédéric Faye. 

 

I plan to co-host a dinner that evening at Le Henri restaurant in downtown Washington D.C. with Frédéric Faye on Friday evening, April 7. 

The cost will be $275 per person to include all wine and food and tips. 

 

Let me know if you can come. And if not, maybe you have friends who would like such an event. 

 

Just want to be sure you get word of this early, as I only get a limited number of seats, max 25 people. 

Mit herzlichen Grüßen aus Straßburg, 

 

Panos

 

 

Participants

 

Vicki and Bruce Ballantyne

Eric Bendickson and Teresa Mastrangelo

Michael Besche and Karen Taylor

David Bloch 

Anne Broker 

Ken Brown 

Paul Chaconas 

Adam Feinberg 

Dimitri Galanis

Chris Loukaides and Ginny

Randy McFarlane 

David Miller

Assaf Pinchas 

Christian and Annette Schiller

Evangelos and Barbara Spyridakis 

Marcus Stanley 

Bill Willfong

Konstantina Zaras

Dinner Menu and Wine Pairings 

 

The Henri, with several private dining rooms and centrally located in Washington DC, is an excellent venue for winemaker dinners.

 

 

Hors-d'œuvre

First Course 

MUSHROOM TRIO, DUCK EGG “SOLEIL” -  GRILLED RUSTIC TOAST

Château Figeac 2004 from magnum 

 

Second Course 

DUCK “CARPACCIO STYLE” (not raw but cooked) 

BLACK TRUFFLE DRESSING / ASSORTED VEGETABLES 

Château Figeac 1981 from magnum 

 

Third Course 

PISTACHIO CRUSTED LAMB STRIP, SCALLION JUS, BABY CARROTS, HERB CHARCOAL, POMME ANNA

Château Figeac 2011

Château Figeac 2009 

 

Final Course 

AGED COW-MILK BASED CHEESES, APPLE BUTTER + BREAD BASKET 

Château Figeac 2015

Château Figeac 2018

 

 

Message from Frédéric Faye

 

Cher Panos,

Chers amis,

C'est avec beaucoup de regrets que je ne pourrai pas être avec vous ce soir. Les compagnies aériennes, après annulation de mon vol et impossibilité de rejoindre Washington dans la journée, m'imposent à rester au CANADA. 

Le plus important sera bien étendu dans votre verre ce soir et mon ami Panos, qui connaît bien FIGEAC, vous parlera de la propriété. 

Le CHATEAU-FIGEAC est une propriété familiale qui appartient à la famille Manoncourt depuis 1892 et que j'ai la chance de diriger depuis 10 ans, tout en y étant arrivé il y a 20 ans en tant que stagiaire. 

Le terroir y est singulier, dominé par des graves sur argile bleue et les vins sont composés de merlot, cabernet franc et cabernet sauvignon en proportions quasi identiques dans l'assemblage. Ils expriment au travers de leur complexité aromatique, de leur texture minérale et de leur longueur interminable toute l’élégance de notre terroir et la sincérité de la famille Manoncourt. 

Vous allez voyagez dans le temps au travers de plusieurs millésimes :

2018 et 2015 qui sont des millésimes aux climats chauds et qui expriment fraîcheur et fruité avec beaucoup d’harmonie malgré leur jeunesse. Les cabernets jouent un rôle prépondérant et permettent aussi de conserver l’équilibre. D’ailleurs à partir du millésime 2015 nous avons réduit les doses de soufre utilisée afin de rendre les vins plus précis et plus expressif dans leur jeune âge. Ne vous inquiétez pas ils sont parfaitement taillés pour la garde. 

2011 et 2009 vont vous charmer en montrant comment FIGEAC se patine avec le temps même si ces deux millésimes sont encore loin de leur apogée. Le nez sera complexe et séducteur, mélange d’épices, fraîcheur, menthol  et des tanins parfaitement intégrés. La longueur en bouche est remarquable en particulier pour le millésime 2009. 

2004, pour un millésime au climat frais démontre la capacité de FIGEAC à produire de grands vins quelques soit le climat. En plus des notes fruitées, les arômes de réglisse et de cèdre vous feront voyager dans ce millésime que nous affectionnons beaucoup à la propriété. 

1981 est une année fraîche et tardive. Toute l'expérience de Monsieur Manoncourt à attendre patiemment la maturité des raisins avant de les récolter permet à ce vin de toujours s'exprimer aujourd'hui. Les arômes tertiaires y sont bien présents et nous trouverons en particulier la feuille de tabac et les épices des cabernets. La bouche est vibrante et les tanins y sont parfaitement intégrés et soyeux. Juste pour que vous sachiez....il s'agit de mon millésime de naissance ;-)

Je suis vraiment navré de ne pas être avec vous tous ce soir mais je vous invite dors et déjà à venir à FIGEAC où nous pourrons partager lors d'un déjeuner ou d'un dîner d'autres millésimes. Je m'y engage même et serai ravi de vous faire découvrir notre terroir, nos nouveaux chais et bien d'autres choses...

Au plaisir de vous accueillir

Bien amicalement,

Frédéric

 

Pictures: At Château Figeac with Château Figeac's Director Frédéric Faye. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

 

Report by Panos Kakaviatos

 

Thanks to everyone who came last night for the Château Figeac dinner at the downtown D.C. restaurant The Henri. We enjoyed excellent Champagne and sparklers before seating, and I especially liked the Grande Dame 2008. Although the Krug was yummy. As was the richer vintage 2005 Dom Perignon. Excellent Greek sparkler in the Karanika. 

 

Among others. 

 

We then sat to enjoy 6 vintages of Figeac over a fine meal prepared by talented chef Frederick De Pue. Pairings went well for the 1981, 2004, 2011, 2009, 2015 and 2018. 

 

The 2011 had a gorgeous nose of bright red fruit and tobacco leaf, but more linear on the palate than the more succulent 2009, both served nicely with pistachio crusted lamb strip. The 2011 was charming, but I could see why 2009 was the group preference. And the most complete wine of the evening. 

 

For two magnums of 1981, both having been recorked in 2016, the tertiary notes of forest floor, truffle and creosote were unmistakable even if one bottle was slightly better than the other. Both paired well with the duck infused with truffle sauce. Neither had the depth of, say, 1982, but it was fun to experience a (difficult) older vintage from magnum. 

 

We actually started with a magnum of the underrated 2004, whose bright verve and ripe fruit went well enough with the mushroom trio and duck egg on toast. Indeed, the tannin was still quite powerful and slightly overpowered the first course. But it was lovely wine!

 

When we got to the 2015 and 2018 vintages, another world. More obviously ripe, but with suave tannins. The 2018 is more youthful and has a bit more alcohol at 14.5% (the 2015 is 14%), while the 2015 has “settled down” by comparison, with many preferring it to the 2018 yesterday evening. Served with cow milk based cheeses from Pennsylvania. 

 

Cheers to the chef and to the restaurant staff for their friendly and efficient service.

 

And thanks to maria E. Denton for joining us at the last minute to cohost the dinner!

 

The Henri - Washingtonian: Modern French-Belgian Bistro the Henri Centers Around Rotisserie Cooking and Private Dining

It’s been five years since chef Frederik De Pue closed the last of his DC restaurants, which at one point included the intimate Table in Shaw and Menu MBK in Penn Quarter. So the February 15 debut of his latest modern bistro, the Henri, might seem like a homecoming. In fact, the chef never really left. While opening Flamant in Annapolis, he’s continued to live in DC and operate his longtime catering business here. And in many ways, the Henri—located a couple of blocks from the White House—is an extension of his catering. Only now he’ll be hosting clients on his own turf. While the restaurant will feature a 60-seat dining room and sizable bar area, 60 percent of the space will be devoted to private dining.

“It’s so hard to find a space for 40 people in DC if it’s not a hotel or it’s a full buyout that is so expensive,” De Pue says. “I found that there’s such a demand for those spaces.”

 

Next Visit of Château Figeac by ombiasy WineTours in 2024

We will visit Château Figeac during the forthcoming Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours in 2024 and will have lunch at the estate with Frédéric Faye. Join us!

 

Here is the posting from our visit in 2015:

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) 

 

Picture: Annette Schiller and Château Figeac's Director Frédéric Faye

Château de Figeac is one of the 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B Châteaux in Saint-Emilion. Its prominent neighbor is Château Cheval Blanc. The vineyards of Château de Figeac border the Pomerol appellation vineyards and thus the vines grow on a very different terroir than the rest of the Saint-Emilion vines. The Figeac wines show a more “Left Bank” character than the rest of the Saint-Emilion wines.

In 1892, the Manoncourt family took over the Château, restored it to its former glory, and transformed the estate into one of the most elegant châteaux in Saint-Emilion.

Pictures: At Château Figeac with Gwennaelle Brieu Château Figeac's Director Frédéric Faye

We visited Château Figeac as part of the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), organized and led by Annette Schiller. The tour took place from September 15 to 24, 2015. The group comprised 8 wine lovers from the United States, including Annette and Christian Schiller.

I already provided an overview about the tour: Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

This posting focuses on our visit of Château Figeac.

Gwennaelle Brieu was our host. We also had a chance to talk with Figeac's Director Frédéric Faye and met winemaker Jean Albignon.

Château Figeac

Because of its fine gravel based soil (which is uncommon in the Right Bank), Merlot accounts only for 30 % of the plantings (which is very low by Saint Emilion standards). The Château Figeac Grand Vin is dominated (70%) by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in equal parts. Château Figeac is known as the most Médoc of the Saint Emilion chateaux.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Figeac

Château Figeac is an old estate. It takes its name from a Roman called Figeacus who built a villa here. Today, one can still see a water-supply system dating from the Gallo-Roman period, foundations of buildings from the Middle Ages and defensive walls along with the remains of a Renaissance chateau incorporated into its structure.

Until the late 18th century, Château Figeac had been in the hands of one family for almost 500 years. With almost 200 hectares, Château Figeac was one of the largest wine estates at the time, but parts were sold and the estate was subdivided several times until 1892, when the Manoncourt family purchased Château Figeac. (A sizable chunk which was purchased by the Ducasse family in 1832 formed the nucleus of what would eventually become Cheval Blanc.)

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Château Figeac

For most of the past 70 years, Château Figeac was been associated with Thierry Manoncourt, who took over the management of the property in 1946, and his wife Marie-France; Thierry Manacourt passed away in 2010. It was under his leadership that Château Figeac rose to the front ranks of Saint-Émilion estates. His son-in-law Comte Eric d'Aramon took over the daily running of the estate in 1988. In 1992, Thierry Manacourt divided the business between his 4 daughters, bestowing the larger share on his eldest daughter, Laure.

Château Figeac tends to harvest early with a view of retaining freshness. After Haut Brion and Latour, Château Figeac was the third estate in Bordeaux to introduce stainless steel tanks; there are now 20 temperature controlled vats, 10 in oak and 10 stainless steel. Since the mid-1970s, Figeac has been aged in 100% new oak. The time spent in new oak varies according to the vintage character. The 1997 vintage was aged 12 months, while the 2009 vintage saw new oak for 18 months.

Pictures: In the Vineyard at Château Figeac

The following wines are produced: Château Figeac (Saint-Emilion - Premier Grand Cru Classé B), La Grange-Neuve de Figeac (second wine) and Chateau Petit-Figeac (bought in 2002 as most of the vineyard was in the middle of their Château Figeac vineyard. The wine is now made at Château Figeac). In total, the Figeac estate amounts to 54 hectares of which 40 are planted with vines. Annual production is 10 000 cases.

The family also owns two other wineries: the nearby Château La Fleur-Pourret (4, 5 hectares, Château La Fleur Pourret was part of Château Figeac many years ago, also bought in 2002), and Château de Millery (just over 1 hectare), in the southern sector of St.-Emilion known as St.-Christophe des Bardes.

Pictures: Tasting at Château Figeac

New Management Team

For many years, Madame Manancourt's son-in-law, Comte Eric d'Aramon, was the DG of Château Figeac, but he was removed in 2013, when the Manoncourt family appointed Jean-Valmy Nicolas as Joint Managing Director and Frédéric Faye as Manager of Château Figeac. Jean-Valmy Nicolas (a graduate of France’s HEC business school) is the joint owner of Chateau La Conseillante in Pomerol and a professional at an investment company, based in Paris.

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Winemaker Jean Albignon and Technical Director Frédéric Faye at Château Figeac

Frédéric Faye (an engineering graduate of Bordeaux’s ENITA), has been at Château Figeac since 2002, when he began as Vineyard Manager before being promoted to the post of Technical Manager. He now has overall management of the vineyard and the wine-making, as well as the sales of the wines.

Pictures: Château Figeac's Technical Manager Frédéric Faye Explaining

As part of these changes, in March 2013, Michel Rolland signed a consulting contract with Château Figeac, with the aim of bringing it up to Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Pictures: Château Figeac's Technical Manager Frédéric Faye and Annette Schiller

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