
Take Ernst Loosen’s Dr. L. A hugely popular German wine in the US, which made it to the Top 100 Wine Spectator list this year, one of two German wines. The Loosen wine is very well regarded in the US, but unheard of in Germany. When you go to the web site of the Dr. Loosen Estate in Germany, you will not find it. A wine, produced only for the export market. A Top 100 wine in the US, an unknown wine in Germany. In general, Dr. Ernst Loosen is a rising star in the US, hugely popular, while in Germany the Estate has just been downgraded in the Gault Millau Wine Guide.

What you can find a lot in the US are the German flagship wines, the noble sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein, made from botrytized or frozen grapes. There is nothing you can do to prevent these wines from becoming noble-sweet. As a result of the noble rot or the freezing of the grapes, the grapes have such high sugar content at harvest, that it is impossible to make dry wines from them. They are very popular in the US and American demand is high. They account for a large share of award winning wines in the US, but do not at all play that prominent role in Germany. They are well known and appreciated, but they are not the wines, people are talking about.

Moving below the noble-sweet wines in terms of sugar content at harvest, Germany being located at the northern border of wine making, the grapes that are harvested for Spaetlese or Auslese wines and below all have a sugar content that they can be alternatively fermented in a dry or sweet style. It is the winemaker who decides in the cellar if he or she wants to make a dry or sweet wine, not Mother Nature in the vineyard. Thus, all wines ranging from Tafelwein to Auslese can be alternatively fermented as dry or sweet wines.
There are principally two ways for making wine sweet that do not have enough sugar. First, you do not let the fermentation run its course and stop it. As a result, you get delicious sweet and low level alcohol wines. Second, you let the wine fully ferment to a normal alcohol level and then add “Suessreserve” which is sterilized juice to achieve the desired level of sweetness.
These basic facts are not well known in the US and too often, American consumers equate sweetness with quality. In particular the latter category is high in demand in the US and skillfully practiced in the Mosel valley. No wonder that the majority of wines on the Wine Enthusiast list from Germany are from the Mosel region. In Germany, on the other hand, consumers principally prefer dry wines. Thus, there is a large segment of German wines in the American market, which is fermented in a way to please the American market and does not appear in the German market.
Finally, Germany’s wine industry is dominated by small, family-owned wineries that are usually very quality driven, but do not have access to export markets. These often very innovative wines are absent in the US. The US is dominated by wine makers with long tradition and well established trade links.

Schiller Wine - Related Postings:
Wine ratings: One German and No American wine on Jancis Robinson's list of red wines.
Wine ratings: Top 100 of the Wine Spectator 2009 include Wittmann and Loosen Rieslings
Wine ratings: London's Times Top 100 Winter Wines 2009
Wine ratings: Gault Millau Germany 2010
Wine rating: German wine - Eichelmann 2010
Wine ratings: Mosel and Pfalz regions dominate German Wines on Top 100 Wine Enthusiast List in 2009
German Wine Basics: How does a sweet German Riesling become sweet?
German Wine Basics: Erstes Gewaechs, Grosses Gewaechs, Erste Lage
No comments:
Post a Comment