When I put a picture of this wine on my facebook account a few days ago, people asked: What is this? Answer: This is a very unusual German wine.
To be more specific:
First, it is a Ruländer, which is the German term for a Pinot Gris that has residual sweetness. The German term for the fully fermented (and dry) is Grauburgunder. The overwhelming majority of German Pinot Gris’ is Grauburgunder. Ruländer are hard to find in these days.
Second, it is a wine that was made with grapes from the 2008 vintage, i.e. 7 years ago, but released only in 2015.
The wine was fermented in a big, old “Stückfass” (1200 liter barrel) and spent 4 years in that barrel, before being bottled 3 years ago. It was given another 3 years in the bottle for further development before being released this year – without fining and filtration.
Only healthy grape material was chosen and the juice which was not enriched. Fermentation was spontaneous; pure breed yeast were not known in the old days. Once a year, winemaker Odin Bauer carefully racked the wine.
Third, when you look carefully at the label, you will notice that the wine does not have a “Amtliche Prüfnummer”, i.e. did not pass the Government review board for “Qualitätsweine” (or was not presented for review). Yet, it sells at Euro 39 ex-winery, in the range were the ultra-premium dry German Grand Cru GG wines are currently sold for. The price is elevated because it is an ultra-premium wine, but outside of the norms. A bit like a Super Tuscany (which did not meet the Chianti regulations).
Fourth: The producer is Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein, owned by Baron (Freiherr) Johannes and Baroness Christina von Gleichenstein in the Kaiserstul area (Baden). Since 1634, this estate has been in the hands of the family of the Baron von Gleichenstein. The estate comprises 50 hectares of the finest vineyards exclusively planted with the classic Burgundy grapes. Baron Johannes and Baroness Christina von Gleichenstein manage the estate in the 11th generation.
In recent years, Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein has seen a remarkable rise, under the leadership of Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein. In 2010, Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein was named Germany’s Rising Star of the Year (Gault Millau). "Increasingly, he uses the great potential of the prime locations in Oberrotweil for excellent Burgundy,” Editor Joel Payne of the Gault Millau praised his wines.
Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein is located in the Kaiserstuhl region in Baden, the most southerly German wine-growing area, across Rhine River from Alsace.
Fifth, the 2008 Ruländer of Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein fits well into the recent trend in Germany to release wines later. Star producer Weingut Dr. Loosen in the Mosel region just relased his new GG Reserve collection, wines that have been barrel aged for 2 years. Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg announced to release the grand crus of the 2014 vintage for sale not in autumn 2015 but as late as one year later.
The release of the 2008 Ruländer of Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in 2015 – after 7 years - is particularly extreme as is the way the wine was vinified.
Sixth: Tasting the wine, it is very aromatic and creamy, as the great Kaiserstuhl white wines were 100 years ago, according to Owner Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein and Winemaker Odin Bauer. It is of golden color, with smells of nuts, honey, caramel and chamomile. It is a thick, ripe wine with a generous mouthfeel. Smooth on the palate. Powerful, but not too heavy (13 % vol. of alcohol). Very elegant and complex.
Ombiasy WineTours Visit: Weingut Freiherr zu Gleichenstein
The Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) took us to 5 exceptional winemakers in the Kaiserstuhl region. One of them was Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein. (The others were: Dr. Heger, Johner, Bernhard Huber, Franz Keller).
See:
Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein toured with us the winery and led a tasting of his outstanding wines.
schiller-wine: Related Postings
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany
In the Glass: A 2007 Pinot Noir from the Gault Millau Shooting Star of the Year - Estate of Baron Gleichenstein
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