Monday, January 28, 2013

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Picture: Jean-Bernard Grenié, Co-owner of Château Angélus and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC

When the new Saint Emilion classification was released on September 6, 2012, I was visiting Saint Emilion. On that day, I visited Château Canon La Gaffelière, promoted to Premièr Grand Cru Classé B on that day, Château Beauséjour, in the satellite appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion and a regular Saint Emilion AOC and organic producer, Château de Figeac, Saint-Emilion, also a Premièr Grand Cru Classé B, which missed out on a promotion to a Premièr Grand Cru Classé A and Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf, that is clearly at the Premièr Grand Cru level, but owner/winemaker Francois Mitjaville does not bother to apply for being included in the classification; thus, Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf remains an ultra-premium unclassified St. Emilion estate.

For more see:
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

I have already provided a general introduction to the main elements, the history and the problems I have with the Saint Emilion classification. This posting focuses on the new 2012-2022 classification.

See:
Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

The St. Émilion Classification

Admittedly, Pomerol does not have a classification of its wines until this very day, but the St. Émilion classification was introduced late, only in 1955, 100 years after the Medoc classification had been released. Importantly, in contrast to the Medoc classification of 1855, which is set in stone, the Saint Emilion classification is revised periodically.

Pictures: St. Émilion

Classified estates are grouped into three levels (with descending  quality level):

St. Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe A
St. Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe B
St. Emilion Grand Cru Classe

In addition, St. Emilion has 2 appellations:

Appellation St. Emilion Grand Cru Controle, and
Appellation St. Emilion Controle, with somewhat less strict requirements.

Taken together, the classification and the appellation systems represent a quality ladder with 5 steps. In terms of volumes, AOC Saint-Emilion accounts for about 50% of total production, unclassified AOC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru for about 30%, Grand Cru Classe for about 15% and 1. Grand Cru Classe for about 5%.

The 2012-2022 Classification

It was with the release of a new classification in 2006 that a huge controversy began that only ended with the release of the 2012 classification. Too many estates were displeased with the classification of 2006 – 2016 and started to fight it. Following 3 years of legal wrangling, the classification was annulled by the courts (and then eventually partially reinstated).

In order to avoid the melodrama of the 2006 classification, for the 2012 classification, the authorities tried to establish as large as possible a wedge between the chateaux to be judged and the judges: The St.-Emilion Wine Syndicate and Bordeaux wine trade were no longer involved. The jury comprised seven wine professionals, all from outside the Bordeaux region. The authorities also brought in two independent bodies - Qualisud for organizing the tasting and Veritas-certification for ensuring the application process was correctly carried out.

Picture: In the cellar with Francois Mitjaville who does not bother to apply for being included in the classification, although his Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf is an ultra-premium wine

Estates were graded - on a scale of 20 - on 4 criteria: tasting, reputation, estate and terroir, estate practices. The weighting of the criteria was different for the Grand Cru Classé (GCC) and Premier Grand Cru Classé (PGCC):

•    Tasting - GCC 50%, PGCC 30%
•    Reputation - GCC 20%, PGCC 35%
•    Estate and terroirs - GCC 20%, PGCC 30%
•    Estate practices - GCC 10%, PGCC 5%

To become Grand Cru Classé, chateaux had to score at least 14 out of 20, to become Premier Grand Cru Classé, at least 16 out of 20.

96 estates applied of which 68 asked to be recognized as Grand Cru Classé and 28 as Premier Grand Cru Classé. In total, 82 properties have been classified into three tiers: Premier Grand Cru Classé A, Premier Grand Cru Classé B and Grand Cru Classé.

The following is the list as published in September 6th, 2012. The promotions are marked by *.

Premiers Grands Crus Classés - A

•    Château Angélus*
•    Château Ausone
•    Château Cheval Blanc
•    Château Pavie*

Picture: Château Angélus

For more, see:
Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Premiers Grands Crus Classés - B

•    Château Beau-Séjour Bécot
•    Château Beauséjour  (Duffau-Lagarrosse)
•    Château Bélair-Monange
•    Château Canon
•    Château Canon-la-Gaffelière*
•    Château Figeac
•    Clos Fourtet
•    Château La Gaffelière
•    Château Larcis-Ducasse*
•    Château La Mondotte*
•    Château Pavie-Macquin
•    Château Troplong-Mondot
•    Château Trottevieille
•    Château Valandraud*

Picture: In the Cellar of Château Figeac

For more, see: 
Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion - A Profile, France

Grands Crus Classés

•    Château L'Arrosée
•    Château Balestard La Tonnelle
•    Château Barde-Huet*
•    Château Bellefont-Belcier
•    Château Bellevue
•    Château Berliquet
•    Château Cadet-Bon
•    Château Cap de Mourlin
•    Château Le Chatelet*
•    Château Chauvin
•    Château Clos de Sarpe*
•    Château La Clotte
•    Château La Commanderie*
•    Château Corbin
•    Château Côte de Baleau*
•    Château La Couspaude
•    Château Dassault
•    Château Destieux
•    Château La Dominique
•    Château Faugères*
•    Château Faurie-de-Souchard
•    Château de Ferrand*
•    Château Fleur-Cardinale
•    Château La Fleur Morange*
•    Château Fombrauge*
•    Château Fonplégade
•    Château Fonroque
•    Château Franc-Mayne
•    Château Grand-Corbin
•    Château Grand-Corbin-Despagne
•    Château Grand-Mayne
•    Château Grand-Pontet
•    Château Les Grandes-Murailles
•    Château Guadet
•    Château Haut Sarpe
•    Clos des Jacobins
•    Couvent des Jacobins
•    Château Jean Faure*
•    Château Laniote
•    Château Larmande
•    Château Laroque
•    Château Laroze
•    Clos La Madeleine*
•    Château La Marzelle
•    Château Monbousquet
•    Château Moulin du Cadet
•    Clos de l'Oratoire
•    Château Pavie-Decesse
•    Château Péby-Faugères*
•    Château Petit Faurie de Soutard
•    Château de Pressac*
•    Château Le Prieuré
•    Château Quinault L'Enclos*
•    Château Ripeau
•    Château Rochebelle*
•    Château St-Georges Côte-Pavie
•    Clos St-Martin
•    Château Sansonnet*
•    Château La Serre
•    Château Soutard
•    Château Tertre-Daugay
•    Château La Tour Figeac
•    Château Villemaurine
•    Château Yon-Figeac

Château Angélus + Château Pavie joined Château Ausone + Château Cheval Blanc at Premier Grand Cru Classé A

World-famous chateaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc have had the Premier Grand Cru Classe A category to themselves since the classification began in 1955. Chateau Angelus and Chateau Pavie, the next most expensive Saint-Emilions at $300 to $400, have now joined them.

Promotions to Premier Grand Cru Classés B

The following 4 producers were elevated to Premier Grand Cru Classé B status, making a total of 14 chateaux with the designation of Premier Grand Cru Classé B status:

Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere
Chateau Larcis Ducasse
La Mondotte
Valandraud

La Mondotte and Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere are both owned and run by Count Stephan von Neipperg. Initially, he had wanted to include La Mondotte in Canon-la-Gaffelière, but the authorities refused, saying that he could never make wine of the quality of Canon-La-Gaffelière at La Mondotte. Chateau Mondotte jumped straight to Premier Grand Cru Classé B.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Count Stephan von Neipperg at Canon-la-Gaffelière and his wines

For more on the wines of  Count Stephan von Neipper, see:
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Jean-Luc Thunevin’s Chateau Valandraud has also been promoted straight to Premier Grand Cru Classé B without passing first to Grand Cru Classé. Some 20 years ago he was dissed by the region’s traditional winemakers as a “garagiste” upstart and called “the bad boy of Bordeaux.”

17 Newt Editions to Grand Cru Classe 

Today 63 estates share the honor of Grand Cru Classe status. The 17 newest editions to Grand Cru Classe are:

Chateau Cote de Baleau
Chateau Barde Haut
Chateau Le Chatelet
Chateau Clos de Sarpe
Chateau Clos La Madeleine
Chateau La Commanderie
Chateau  Faugeres
Chateau de Ferrand
Chateau Fombrauge
Chateau La Fleur Morange
Chateau Jean Faure
Chateau La Marzelle
Chateau Peby Faugeres
Chateau de Pressac
Chateau Quinault l’Enclos
Chateau Rochebelle
Chateau Sansonnet

Reportedly, a Grand Cru Classe sells for 1.5 million Euros to 3 million Euros per hectare, 3 to 5 times more than one in the basic Saint-Emilion grand cru appellation. A Premier Grand Cru Classe sells for 2.5 million to 4.5 million Euros per hectar.

Demotions

A total of 4 chateaux were demoted. Magdelaine lost the Premier Grand Cru Classe status and Chateau Bergat, Chateau Cadet Piola and Chateau Corbin Michotte lost their Grand Cru Classe status.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion - A Profile, France

A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos

Château Brane-Cantenac, Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Margaux – A Profile, France

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Returning to Washington DC, USA

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA 

Friday, January 25, 2013

Vendredi du Vin #52: Soyez Coopératif! – Vent Contraire: un Vin de Protest

Picture: Reiner Flick and Christian G.E. Schiller in Hochheim with a Bottle of 2011 Gegenwind

Gegenwind (Headwind, Vent Contraire) is a protest wines, made in a joint venture by 2 German elite winemakers – Gunter Kuenstler, Weingut Franz Kuenstler and Reiner Flick, Weingut Joachim Flick, both from Hochheim (Rheingau). With this wine, they joined a citizen movement in the greater Frankfurt am Main area “against the unbridled exploitation of culture and nature” as Reiner Flick put it and “in particular, against the expansion of the Frankfurt Airport.” Recently, a third landing strip was opened and the resulting increased noise in the Hochheim area from aircrafts landing at and taking off from Frankfurt Airport triggered the decision to make this wine and to contribute the proceeds to the non-profit organization Gegenwind 2011 Rhein-Main.

Picture: Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Vendredi du Vin #52 : en 2013, Soyez Coopératif !

This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by Eric Leblanc, who works as a Sommelier in Lambersart, a suburb of Lille, in the Northern Part of France.

Hochheim in the Rheingau and Frankfurt International Airport

Hochheim, where the 2 wine makers are from, is at the eastern edge of the Rheingau, well known around the world for its Riesling wines. Moving from Hochheim to the west, the fairly flat, dimpled landscape evolves into progressively steep slopes. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition.

Picture: The Rheingau

Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock. The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines in Hochheim to take back to his estate in Virginia.

Picture: Kloster Eberbach

Even though it belongs to the Rheingau, Hochheim is actually situated along the Main River. Its vineyards have amongst the best exposure and climate in all of the Rheingau. Hochheim is just 30 Minutes away by S-Bahn from Frankfurt am Main central railway station. Coming from Frankfurt, you arrive in vineyards and it is a beautiful walk up through the vineyards to the village.

Picture: Frankfurt Airport does not own the Skys

Joachim Flick: “The Flick and the Kuenstler families own vineyards in the thousand years old, culturally rich Rheingau region and live from and with winemaking. Both wineries generate jobs for more than 40 people each. The unbridled expansion of the Frankfurt International Airport goes at the expense of several hundred thousands of residents of the Rhein Main region, threating this area in a way that has never happened before”.

What is behind Reiner Flick and Gunther Kuenstler’s actions is their concern for the region and its living standard: "There will be a massive change in the structure of our towns and villages, if the noise level increases further, instead of going down: The people who can afford it will move away and those people who will move in will be looking for cheap living space. The lower income groups will settle here. Our clients who buy our wine will move away. This very divers region cannot be defined by the Frankfurt Airport alone. This is a dead end street” criticizes Reiner Flick.

Picture: Gunter Kuenstler with Christian G.E. Schiller

Gunther Kuenstler agrees: "I am concerned that this region will one day no longer be a rich region, neither in terms of resources nor in terms of people. The Rheingau region is an outstanding spot on earth that deserves to be protected. I am not one of these fellow citizens who participate in every protest movement. I only try to do the best for my family and my employees. Of course, we need an airport in the region but it should not be an airport that crowds out everything else.”

For more on Weingut Kuenstler, see:
Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84
Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany
Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma
World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler

Gegenwind/Headwind/Vent Contraire

Gegenwind is a non-profit organizations of about 40 lawyers, medical doctors, journalists and winemakers that was founded in January 2012 at the Flick Estate.

Joachim Flick and Gunther Kunstler produced 1200 bottles of the 2011 Gegenwind.

For more information, see the initial posting:
Headwind (Gegenwind) – A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature

schiller-wine - Related Postings

“Hoffest” (Winery Party) at Weingut Heinrich Baison in Hochheim, Rheingau - Best of Riesling 2010 Award Winner

Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Impressions from the Riesling and Co World Tour 2010 in New York

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

The Focus on Dry German Riesling – Daniel Hubbard Presents the German DSWE Portfolio to the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter)

Christian G.E. Schiller Leads Tasting of US-American Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Headwind (Gegenwind) – A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature

Thursday, January 24, 2013

The Wines from Madagascar and 9 Other Exotic Wine Regions and Countries

Pictures: Ile Sainte Marie off the East Coast of the Grand Ile de Madagascar and Christian G.E. Schiller with Patrick Rajaonary at Cafe de la Gare in Antananarivo

Exotic wine is a wine that is foreign in origin or character, not native, from abroad, to try an attempt of a description. This posting provides an overview of 10 exotic wine countries and regions that I have visited and/or written about.

Africa: Madagascar
United States: Finger Lakes, Missouri, Virginia
Eastern Europe: Czeck Republic, Poland, Russia, Serbia
China
Germany: Saale Unstrut

Weinrallye #59 Exotic Wines

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading “Exotic Wines”. This month's wine rally is organized by the Institute of Drinks Blog of Peter Ladinig - "Das Onlinemagazin von Peter Ladinig mit News & Stories aus der Welt des Weines und der Gastronomie".

Madagascar

Off the eastern coast of Africa, Madagascar in the Indian Ocean is the 4th largest island in the world. Long known for vanilla beans and peppers, you can dine in its capital Antananarivo like in Paris, but at much, much lower prices. Not well known in the rest of the world, Madagascar produces wine. Typically, Malagasy wine tends to be of good table wine quality, not more. Traditionally, the main grape varieties are Petit Bouchet, Villardin, Chambourcin and Varousset for vins rouge and the Couderc Blanc for vins blanc. These are all so called French American hybrid grape varieties. Generally speaking, French-American hybrid grape varieties have the advantage of being robust, but do not match the so-called European grape varieties (vitis vinifera) in terms of elegance and refinement.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jean Allimant with Marie Nomena Allimant and their Clos Nomena Wines in Antananarivo

However, a brand-new development, there is now one winery in Madagascar  - Clos Nomena - that is radically different as it makes wines exclusively on the basis of the European grape varieties: Vitis vinifera grapes are without any doubt the best in the world for fine wine. My wife Annette and I have known the Clos Nomena owners Pâquerette and Jean Allimant for many years through joint Betsileo friends.

See more:
The Wines of Madagascar - Good and Interesting Table Wines
Fine Wine and Fine Oysters in Madagascar: Oysters from Fort Dauphin and Wine from Clos Nomena
Clos Nomena: Taking the Wine of Madagascar to New Heights

Finger Lakes Wine Region

The Finger Lakes AVA in upstate New York encompasses seven glacial lakes, although the majority of plantings are around Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga Lakes. Most vineyards are planted on hillsides overlooking the lakes. These deep lakes help to moderate the climate, as stored heat is released from the lakes during the winter, keeping the weather mild during summer extends the growing season. This cool-climate region is often compared to the wine-growing region of Germany, and like Germany, has had special success with Riesling.

Pictures: The Finger Lakes and their Wines

The Finger Lakes include 4,452 hectares of vineyards, making it New York State's largest wine growing region. New York State is with Washington State the second largest wine producer in the US, with a bit more than 10.000 hectares. Of this, 400 hectares are accounted for by Riesling.

There are over 100 wineries, mostly family owned and operated small producers, bottling over 100,000 cases per year. While the region does an excellent job with other grapes like Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and even Pinot Noir, Riesling is the star, with each producer making an average of two to three different styles from dry to sweet each vintage.

At President Obama's Inauguration Luncheon a few days ago, a Finger Lakes Riesling was served.

See more:
Celebrating the Release of the Finger Lakes 2011 Riesling in Washington DC, USA
The Wines and the Food at President Obama’s Inauguration Luncheon, January 21, 2013, USA


Missouri

Missouri’s wine history dates to the 1830s, when German immigrants established Hermann and the Missouri River as one of the main viticulture areas in the US, growing the American grapes that they found there when they arrived. 50 years later, more wine was produced in Missouri than in any other State in the US. In the 1880s, Stone Hill Winery in Hermann was the second largest winery in the US and the third largest in the world. Its wines won awards at the world fairs in Vienna in 1873 and Philadelphia in 1876.

But then came Prohibition and brought Missouri’s wine industry to a halt. However, Missouri’s wine industry came back, starting in the 1960s, in particular after French American hybrid grapes became available. Indeed, the Augusta AVA (American Viticultural Area, the American equivalent of the French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée - AOC) in Missouri is the first federally approved AVA (gaining the status on June 20, 1980, eight months before the Napa Valley AVA).

Christian G.E.Schiller with winemaker/owner Tony Kooyumjian (Montelle Winery and Augusta Winery) in Missouri and the Gateway Arch of St. Louis

Today, Missouri has more than 1,400 acres planted in grapes and more than 100 wineries. Missouri is again a serious wine producer, relying heavily on French American hybrid grapes and native American grapes like Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc, and Norton - the latter one being the most prominent Missouri-grown variety. The State’s climate is harsh and humid and vinifera grapes – like Chardonnay and Merlot - have a hard time to thrive under these conditions, although recently there has been more interest in planting vinifera grape varieties.

However, overall, Missouri is a small player now, accounting for less than 0.5% of total wine production in the US.

See more:
Wine Producer Missouri – Once a Major Force in the US Wine Market, then Non-existant and now on a Rebound with French American Hybrid Grapes

Virginia

Virginia is the 5th largest wine industry in the US, with about 200 wineries and 2,500 acres of vineyards.

In the original charter of the thirteen colonies was a royal commission to pursue three luxury items that England was unable to provide for itself: wine, silk, and olive oil. Every colony made attempts to satisfy the requirements of its charter. Despite many years of failure, the early Americans persisted in their efforts. A big step forward was made in 1740 when a natural cross pollination occurred between a native American grape and a European vitis vinifera. Other successful crossings followed.

Pictures: Rachel Martin of Boxwood Winery, Virginia


In 1762, John Carter, who had 1,800 vines growing at Cleve Plantation, sent 12 bottles to the Royal Society of Encouragement of the Arts, Manufacture and Commerce in London for their evaluation. Minutes of their meeting on the 20th of October 1762 declared Carter’s wines to be “excellent” and a decision was taken to reward Carter’s efforts with a gold medal for his wines. These were the first internationally recognized fine wines produced in America.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jim Law at Linden Vineyards, Virginia

Over the past 30 years or so, Virginia wines have experienced a tremendous development - to elegant and balanced, mostly European vinifera-based wines. Recently, Donald Trump as well as AOL founder Steve Case bought a Virginia winery.

See more:
Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia – A Profile, USA
Book Review: "Beyond Jefferson's Vines - The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia" by Richard Leahy, USA
An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA
Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA
Northern Virginia Magazine October 2012: Wine Recs from Local Winos
Visiting Jennifer Breaux Blosser and Breaux Vineyards in Virginia, USA
Virginia Wines Shine in San Francisco - 2012 San Francisco International Wine Competition, USA

Czech Republic

The Czech Republic is well known for its outstanding beers, but very much absent from the international market when it comes to wine. However, the Czech Republic produces good wines, which will eventually become internationally better known.

Pictures: Saint Wenceslas Square in Prague and a Glass of Czech Wine

More than 90 percent of the wine production is accounted for by the southern part of Moravia, particularly around the Danube tributaries Dyje, Svraka and Morava. The Moravian wine region is largely concentrated on the border with Austria. It is kind of a continuation of the Austrian “Weinviertel” region in the north-east of Austria.

In Bohemia, north of Prague, vines are planted along the river Labe (Elbe) and its tributaries, totaling 400 hectares of vineyards only. It is a small wine region, although Bohemia accounts for more than half of the Czech Republic. It is one of the most northerly wine regions in Europe. Prague sits on the 50° north latitude, the same as Wiesbaden in the Rheingau. The original instigator of vine-planting in Bohemia was the Emperor Charles IV, who gave it impetus with his decrees issued in the year 1358. The wine region Bohemia is divided into two sub-regions: Mělník and Litoměřice.

No wine is grown in Czech Silesia, the third of the three Czech regions, in the north-east.

See more:
Vinograf Winebar - Arguably the Best Place to Taste Czech Wines in Prague
A Great Selection of Czech Wines at the Villa Richter Outdoor Wine Bistro in Saint Wenceslas Vineyard in the Middle of Prague
The Exciting Wines of the Czech Republic 

Poland

It is very difficult to find Polish wine, when you visit Poland, though there is a rapidly growing wine industry. When EU accession was negotiated, Poland asked that 100.000 hectares of to land be approved for wine growing. If one day all this land is planted with grape vines, this would exceed Germany’s current wine growing area.

Poland lies at the northern limit for wine growing. But in Poland and elsewhere in this situation, this line is moving upwards, as I have recently also observed in the UK. Wine growing is now viable in a large part of Poland, although vineyards are still concentrated in the South. The main problem that the climate is cool is still there, but slowly losing its relevance.

There are about 500 winemakers now. Most are boutique wineries with less than 1 hectare of land. Most of the plantings took place in the last 20 years, after the fall of the iron curtain. Apart from the difficult, though improving, climate, the wine industry still suffers from lack of expertise and experience.

Throughout history, Poland has never been an important producer of wine. But the Polish aristocracy always had a taste for good wine and the European producers always had an eye on the Polish market.

See more:
Emerging Wine Country Poland: The Early Days of a Climate Change Gainer?

Russia

Wine making during the period of the Soviet Union was concentrated in the South, reflecting the climate conditions there: Crimea in the Ukraine, the valley of Ararat in Armenia, as well as the Republics of Moldova, Georgia and Azerbaijan. After the break down of the Soviet Union, most of these regions became foreign for Russia.

The founder of modern commercial wine-making in Russia is Prince Leo Galitzine, who established the first Russian sparkling wine estate in the Crimea. In 1889 his sparkling wine won the Gold Medal in Paris. Until today, Russian Sekt remains very popular in Germany.

After the Russian Revolution in 1917, the French wine-savvy professionals fled Russia, but during the Soviet Union, wine growing and making came back. In general, priority was given to higher-yielding sorts of grapes, quantity over quality.

The wine growing areas of Russia are located between the Caspian and Black Seas. Until today, the wine market in Russia is almost entirely a table wine market.

See more:
Champagne in Russia
Emerging wine country: Russia --- After the break down of the Soviet Union, many important wine growing areas became foreign for Russia 

Serbia

Generally, Eastern European countries like Serbia have a history of winemaking that is as long – if not longer – than that of France, Spain or Italy. Yet, to find fine wines from these countries outside their borders is not easy. This is due to a combination of factors. These countries were behind the Iron Curtain until 20 years ago and are only now emerging on the world market. During the communist period, the wine industry suffered and fell behind, while the rest of the world was moving ahead rapidly. They are now trying to catch up and are doing this with uneven success. Some countries are advancing rapidly, such as Hungary, Slovenia and Croatia, others are moving at a slower pace. Anyway, these are all highly interesting wine countries and I am glad to see their wines entering the world market.

Serbia is the former state of the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia that had to wait the longest time to find stability. It has arrived only now after the conflicts with Croatia, Montenegro and Kosovo. Wine is being made all over the country, for hundreds of years, but overall the quality remains low. It is not yet easy to find Serbian wines that are up to international standards in these days, due to 50 years of Yugoslavian-style socialism and 15 years of war and political repression and unrest, although things are changing rapidly in this lovely country in the Eastern part of Europe. Serbia has a long wine making tradition and quality wine making is gaining momentum. There are now about 70,000 hectares of vineyards in Serbia.

See more:
Winemaker Small Cellar Radovanovic in Serbia
Emerging Wine Country Serbia - Still in the early Stages after the Break-up of Yugoslavia
Wine Bar: Podrum Wine Art and Question Mark, Belgrade/Serbia
In the glass: Schiller from Serbia
In the Glass: 2006 Do Kraja Sveta from Serbia

China

The wine industry in China is developing at a remarkable pace.

China has a long tradition of producing all kinds of wine, but produced practically no vinifera wine before the economic reforms of the early 1980s. It now ranks 7th in terms of production, ahead of Germany, South Africa and Chile and almost at par with Australia and Argentina, and it is likely to overtake Australia soon. China already produces more wine than Spain and Portugal combined.

Much of the wine industry is run by the Chinese Government. The wine industry is dominated by three giants. Great Wall, Changyu and Dynasty Estates are the big players of China’s burgeoning wine industry.

The wine production area largely rests in the Yantai region. Located roughly 300 miles southeast of Beijing, the peninsula is part of Shandong province. Its proximity to the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea gives it a maritime climate, shielding it from the cold winters of northeastern China, not very different from Bordeaux in France. With some 10,000 hectares of vineyards, the area is home to many well-established wine companies producing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

China’s first winery, the Changyu winery, was established in 1892. It won gold medals in the 1915 World Expo for their Roses and Rieslings. Its cellar is the largest wine cellar in Asia. Changyu puts out a million and a half bottles of wine annually. Dynasty Estates is a joint venture of the state and the French company Remy Cointreau.

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, partnering with CITIC, China's largest state-owned investment company, is in the process of setting up a winery in China to produce ultra premium wines there. The French wine maker plans to plant on 60 acres in the Shandong province. Chateau Lafite Rothschild has an extraordinary reputation in China.

Apart from the large wineries, the Chinese wine industry is also littered with smaller, privately owned wineries. Many people say it’s like being in Napa 35 years ago; there’s a buzz, the industry is still in its infancy but you know it is bound for greatness.

See more:
China's Wine Boom: Is Jeannie Cho Lee the New Robert Parker?
The Emerging Wine Giant China - Mouton Cadet Bar Opening
Emerging Wine Country: China's Wine Boom Since 2000

Saale Unstrut (Germany)

The Saale Unstrut wine region is Germany’s most northern wine region, in the valleys of the Saale and Unstrut rivers, around Freyburg and Naumburg. With 730 hectares of vineyard area, it is one of the smaller wine regions in Germany. The oldest record of viticulture dates back to the year 998 during the reign of Emperor Otto III.

Located in the area of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR), Saale-Unstrut has become a thriving emerging wine region after the Berlin Wall came down in 1989 (as Sachsen, the other wine region in the area of the former GDR; Sachsen is half of the size of Saale Unstrut).

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Bernhard Pawis in Saale Unstrut, Germany

Basically, all of the wineries we visited have experienced rapid growth and large investments over the past years, following 50 years of communism that did not allow for private initiative. In a way, Saale Unstrut is an emerging wine region in an old world wine country. It is pretty much an emerging market situation there, but without any foreign investors.

Saale-Unstrut exports almost no wine and sells very little in the western part of Germany. Most of it is consumed in East Germany. The quality price ratio is not very favorable, so Saale Unstrut wines have a hard time to compete with the wines in West Germany. But the Saale Unstrut wine makers have no problems at all to sell their wine, as the Saale Unstrut wine is very popular with the locals and the tourists visiting East Germany, including the Baltic Sea. Of course, when you visit Weimar, Erfurth or Leipzig, to name a few of the many very historic towns of the eastern part of Germany, you want to drink local – either Saale Unstrut or Sachsen wines.

See more:
Weingut Pawis in Saale Unstrut, Germany
Weingut Lützkendorf in Saale Unstrut in Germany
Visiting Andre Gussek and his Weingut Winzerhof Gussek in Saale Unstrut, Germany

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Tasting Vintage 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Wines with Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Panos Kakaviatos and 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Montrachet, Grand Cru (Picture: Aaron Nix-Gomez, Hogshead – A Wine Blog)

When my friend and wine journalist Panos Kakaviatos is in town, there is always a flurry of tastings taking place in Washington DC. This time, he had organized with fellow wine lovers, merchants and bloggers a 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Wines at Lavandou Restaurant in Washington DC, US.

Panos Kakaviatos brought ten 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils  wines, provided by Bouchard Père et Fils ‘ US Importer Henriot. In addition, each participant provided another bottle of wine. This posting focuses on the 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils wines only.

Present were Karl and Adelaide Keller, Howard and Nancy Cooper, Amy Ray, Darryl Priest, Ben Gilberti (Calvert and Woodley), Paul Marquardt, Tim O’Rourke (Weygand Wine Store), David Choi (Owner of Pearson’s Wine Store), Ken Brown, Kevin Shin, Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead – A Wine Blog), Annette Schiller (Owner of Ombiasy Wine Tours) and Christian Schiller (schiller-wine, Blog) and Panos Kakaviatos (Decanter and Connections to Wine, Blog).

Pictures: Tasting 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Wines at Lavandou Restaurant in Washington DC, US

The highlight of the evening was a 2010 Montrachet. Panos Kakaviatos: "One cannot really understand truly great "Chardonnay" until one tastes Montrachet. Here a fine example, in fact a barrel sample, from the excellent producer Bouchard Père et Fils .”

For more on Panos Kakaviatos:
A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos 

Bouchard Père et Fils

Bouchard Père et Fils is a wine grower and négociant, based in Beaune, in the Côte de Beaune.

Bouchard Père et Fils was established as a cloth merchant by Michel Bouchard in Volnay in 1731. Starting in 1746, his son Joseph Bouchard began selling wines and acquiring vineyards. Over several generations, Bouchard Père et Fils has assembled one of the finest portfolios in Bourgogne of 130 hectares of vineyard in the heart of the Côte d’Or – 12 of them classified as Grand Cru and 74 as Premier Cru, including: Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Clos Vougeot, Chambertin, Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus, Volnay Caillerets, Meursault Perrières.

Picture: The Wines of Bouchard Père et Fils

Moreover, installed since 1820 at the Château de Beaune in the heart of Beaune, a “Monument Historique”, Bouchard Père et Fils benefits from ideal natural conditions for leaving its precious bottles to age.

In 1995, the Bouchard family sold the firm to Joseph Henriot.

Henriot

The Henriot Family has been in Champagne since the 16th Century. In 1808, Apolline Henriot, one of the many famous widows of the Champagne region, decided to sell their wines under the Champagne Henriot label, hitherto only reserved for family and friends. Today, Henriot Champagne can be found around the world.

When Etienne Henriot died in 1957, his son, Joseph Henriot, also a trained agronomist, gradually took over the reins of the family company from 1962. Joseph Henriot, a successful businessman, also became President of Charles Heidsieck, then Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin. In 1995, Joseph Henriot bought Bouchard Père et Fils.

Since 1999, Stanislas Henriot, son of Joseph Henriot, gradually took over the management of the House and was appointed President in 2004. He resigned in 2010. The resignation surprised many, given that Stanislas Henriot has overseen a transformation of Henriot Champagne, which had been relatively unknown outside France. He also set up a subsidiary in the US that imports and sells, inter alia, Henriot Champagne and Bouchard Père et Fils wines. During his tenure, the turn-over of Henriot increased from 9 to 27 million Euro and the contracts with growers reached 185 hectares.

The 2010 Vintage

Bouchard Père et Fils states that 2010 is a very promising vintage. The harvest started September 20th and finished October 1st. The grapes were small with very concentrated juice. The bottling dates were a little earlier than normal.

White Wines

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault Les Clous, Village

Imported by Henriot. 100% Chardonnay sourced from soils of calcareous marls on a hard platform. Aged for 8-10 months in up to 15% new oak. Alcohol 13.5%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “There was a light nose of tighter, darker fruit. In the mouth there was similarly tight fruit with a creamy touch that was focused. There were some spices and a barrel note in the aftertaste.”

Kevin Shin: “A hint of flint, limestone and white fruits. Refreshing, bright acidity, not too complex.”

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Clos Saint-Landry, Premier Cru

Imported by Henriot. 100% Chardonnay sourced from soils of limestone and clay with marls. Aged for 8-12 months in up to 15% new oak. Alcohol 13.5%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “The light nose was a touch fruitier with more tropical aromas and some floral notes. In the mouth it was a bit structured with a hint of tropical fruit and young grip. There were apples and stones in the aftertaste.”

Kevin Shin: “Bubble yum, yellow fruits, displaying more acidity than Les Clous. Round and warm mouthfeel. Not terribly complex.”

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru

Imported by Henriot. 100% Chardonnay sourced from predominantly limestone soils and clay. Aged for 12-14 months in up to 20% new oak. Alcohol 14%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “The light to medium strength nose tilted towards lemons. In the mouth the white fruit slowly expanded in the mouth with good acidity. This balanced wine has structure for aging. There were lemon notes and minerality as the wine warmed and breathed.”

Kevin Shin: “A great example of big scale Corton Charlemagne displaying piercing acidity and incredible minerality. Lime, white fruits, white flowers, sesame, wet stone, flint and smoke. Excellent fruit depth, air and mineral yet unctuous and sweet palate ending with piercing acidity. Lovely wine that will improve with cellaring.”

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Montrachet, Grand Cru

Imported by Henriot. Barrel Sample. 100% Chardonnay sourced from soils of gravelly limestone. Aged for 12-14 months in up to 20% new oak. Alcohol 14%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “The light to medium nose was aromatic and complex with flinty aromas and deep fruit. It opened up over the course of the glass. There was good depth in the mouth with spices and a broader, weighty nature. There finish was nice as well as the spiced aftertaste. Upon revisiting there was ripe lemons and spice in the beginning. An oily mouthfeel developed along with a fine, almost grainy texture. Clearly the best thus far, precise, focused, and determined.”

Kevin Shin: “Upon pour, just darn impressive, massive scale wine that reminds me a batard. White pear, white peach, lime, rose, sesame, limestone, sea salt and white pepper. Unbelievably dense and concentrated palate yet remains precise and delicate. With air, the nose opened up displaying more delicate fruits. The palate remains almost chewy yet light and precise with just perfect amount of acidity. A great great example of Le Montrachet.”

Red Wines

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Teurons, Premier Cru

Imported by Henriot. 100% Pinot Noir made from estate and purchased fruit. Aged 8-14 months in 20-40% new oak. Alcohol 13.5%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “There was a light, good nose of finely delineated red and black fruit. In the mouth there was good, racy black cherry fruit. The flavors were simpler but worked with the juicy acidity and the blacker red racy vein. There were fine tannins which coated the tongue and lips. It has a young, attractive personality which was somewhat forward.”

Kevin Shin: “Ripe red fruits, earth. Pretty simple wine but enjoyable.

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-Les-Beaune, Village

Imported by Henriot. 100% Pinot Noir made from estate and purchased fruit. Aged 8-14 months in 20-40% new oak. Alcohol 13%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “There was a light, tight nose with slightly deeper, dark red cherry fruit. In the mouth there was brighter red fruit, leaning towards cran-raspberry. The acidity and fruit were integrated with a little Pinot note in the aftertaste.”

Kevin Shin: “Round red fruits, earth, tar and stem. Medium concentration, good acidity and no noticeable tannins. No complex note. Good restaurant wine.”

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Cailleret, Ancienne Cuvee Carnot, Premier Cru

Imported by Henriot. 100% Pinot Noir sourced from soils of thin limestone and clay on cracked rock. Aged 10-18 months in 60-85% new oak. Alcohol 13.5%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “The light nose bore the fine scent of red and purple fruit. In the mouth there was a bit of a creamy start as the wine rounded out with a black and red mineral vein. There was controlled ripeness to the flavors which became blacker with air. There was a powdery sweetness in the finish. Nice. Youthful.”

Kevin Shin: “Rounder and more complex fruit expression, root beer, fresh beet, raspberry fruits, cherry, flower and limestone. Warm and round palate with good acidity that keeps the wine fresh. Lovely and pretty wine.”

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin, Village

Imported by Henriot. 100% Pinot Noir made from estate and purchased fruit. Aged 8-14 months in 20-40% new oak. Alcohol 13%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “There was a very light and tight nose which was not that appealing, sort of blend of fruits and vegetables. In the mouth there was firm red fruit, athletic, and a core of ripe red fruit. There were fine, strong tannins which powered through the aftertaste. Upon revisiting a second bottle it showed a bit better but was still my least favorite of the reds.”

Kevin Shin: “Floral, cherry, red fruits, a hint of blackberries, tar, noticeable tannins. Relatively simple fruit expression.”

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Vosne-Romanee, Village

Imported by Henriot. 100% Pinot Noir made from estate and purchased fruit. Aged 8-14 months in 20-40% new oak. Alcohol 13%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “The nose was very light with exotic berries. In the mouth there was tart red fruit, more cranberry flavors, then very fine tannins. This is very young and the tannins are quite strong.”
Kevin Shin: “Fresh red and blue fruits, round, warm. Drinking nicely but simple.”

2010 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus, Premier Cru

Imported by Henriot. 100% Pinot Noir sourced from soils of limestone and clay. Aged 10-18 months in 60-85% new oak. Alcohol 13.5%.

Aaron Nix-Gomez: “The very light nose bore fine, black and mulberry aromas. In the mouth there was old-school flavors of light, red fruit. It was finely articulated. The acidity, tannins, and fruit were all in balance as the flavors slowly expanded. There was a perfumed, lipstick finish with black, focused fruit. You can drink it now with extended air but best to cellar.”

Kevin Shin: “A bit more concentration than the Volnay Cailleret, a bit more masculine. Beautiful flower driven nose, red fruits, cherry, sap and a hint of mint. Excellent concentration, good acidity and nice length.”

Acknowledgement

I would like to thank Aaron Nix-Gomez and Kevin Shin for the pictures and the reviews of the wines. Aaron issued a detailed account of the tasting on his blog Hogshead: The 2010 Bouchard Pere et Fils Tasting and Kevin in a wine forum.

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Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Panos Kakaviatos, Jean-Bernard Grenié, Ivanhoe Johnston (Negociant) and Christian G.E. Schiller

When my friend and wine journalist Panos Kakaviatos is in town, there is always a flurry of tastings taking place in Washington DC. This time, he and Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages had arranged with Jean-Bernard Grenié from Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay in Saint Emilion a tasting at the trendy Black Salt Restaurant on MacArthur Boulevard, just next to Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, US.

For more on Panos Kakaviatos, see:
A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos

Château Angélus

Château Angélus is - newly promoted – one of only 4 Premier Grand Cru Classé A, AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru producers, the top category in the Saint Emilion Classification.

Château Angélus has been owned by the de Boüard de Laforest family since 1909, when the Domaine de Mazaret was bequeathed to Comte Maurice de Boüard de Laforest.

Pictures: Panos Kakaviatos and Jean-Bernard Grenié establishing the order of the wines

The name refers to the three Angelus bells audible from the vineyards, coming from the chapel at Mazerat, the church in Saint-Martin de Mazeret and Saint-Émilion.

Château Angélus consists of 23.4 hectares with a grape variety of 51% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The estate also produces a second wine, Le Carillon de l’Angelus. The annual production averages 10,000 cases of the Grand Vin and 1,000 cases of the second wine.

In June 2012, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, was named Executive Manager. The family of Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal has been making wine in Saint Emilion for nine generations.

Hubert de Boüard de Laforest and Jean-Bernard Grenié

Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal is the daughter of Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, who had joined the family business at Angélus in 1976. Until she took over, Château Angélus had been run - for several decades - by Stephanie’s father Hubert de Boüard de Laforest and her uncle Jean-Bernard Grenié, who presented the wines at Black Salt. Initially, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest worked under his uncle, but he became the #1 in 1985.

Pictures: Panos Kakaviatos, Jean-Bernard Grenié, Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Wine Tours and Christian G.E. Schiller before the dinner

Starting with the 1988 vintage, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest rapidly changed things at Château Angélus. He was one of the first Bordeaux wine makers to embrace fermenting in open top vats and conducting malolactic in small barrels. In the vineyard, he lowered yields. He began aging wines in new oak barrels.

Today, fermentation takes place in a combination of temperature controlled stainless steel vats, concrete and open top, oak vats at 28 to 32° degrees Celsius. Everything in the cellar moves by gravity flow. After malolactic fermentation in barrel is completed, the wine is aged in 100% new, French oak barrels for between 18-24 months.

In addition to progressive winemaking, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest also has embraced new kinds of marketing, including movie product placement. Angélus has made appearances in three dozen films, including “Casino Royale” in 2006 and “Passion” last year.

This has helped the chateau reach new consumers in Asia, who now account for 55 percent of sales, up from 15 percent in 2005, Jean-Bernard Grenié said.

The de Boüard de Laforest family also owns other estates in the Right Bank including Chateau Bellevue and Chateau Daugay in St. Emilion and La Fleur de Bouard in Lalande Pomerol.

Chateau Daugay

Chateau Daugay is an unclassified AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru estate. It emerged, when the initial estate was divided into Daugay and Tertre Daugay in 1909. In 1920, Chateau Daugay was bought by Henriette de Boüard de Laforest, whose brother, Maurice de Boüard de Laforest, had taken over Angelus in 1909. Maurice’s son, Christian de Boüard de Laforest purchased Daugay from his aunt in 1946 and the vineyard was absorbed into that of Angelus until 1985 when Daugay returned to being an autonomous château. Since 2006, Hélène Grenié de Boüard, the daughter of Christian de Boüard de Laforest has run the estate, with her husband, Jean-Bernard Grenié.

Pictures: Panos Kakaviatos, Jean-Bernard Grenié, the Sister-in-Law of Bourgogne Wine Maker Alex Gambal, who comes from Washington DC and Christian G.E. Schiller during the dinner

The estate consists of 5.5 hectares with a grape variety of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The wine is aged in 50% in one year old French oak barrels and 50% in stainless steel vats for between 18-20 months.

Annual production is 2000 cases, distributed through Nath. Johnston and Fils. Ivanhoe Johnston was also present at the dinner. Chateau Daugay sells at around US$ 25.

(The owners of Chateau Haut Brion purchased the Chateau Tertre Daugay estate in May, 2011 from Count Léo de Malet-Roquefort the owner of Chateau La Gaffeliere and changed its name to Chateau Quintus. 2010 is the last vintage of Chateau Tertre Daugay.)

Black Salt

Black Salt is the Black Restaurant Group’s popular flagship in the Palisades area, directly next to McArthur’s. It combines a terrific on-site market for fresh fish, a lively bar, the main dining room and the somewhat more intimate and elegant back room, where tasting took place. Black Salt is one of the leading fish restaurants in town. I like to go there for oyster happy hour.

Pictures: Chef Thomas Leonard

Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages

Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages is – with Calvert and Woodley - Washington DC's leading retailer and importer of fine wines and spirits. MacArthur Beverages was founded in 1957 by Addy & Ruth Bassin and is located at 4877 MacArthur Blvd. in Washington DC. Ruth Bassin and her two daughters are the sole owners of MacArthur Beverage.

Pictures: Jean-Bernard Grenié, Ivanhoe Johnston, Annette Schiller and Christian G.E. Schiller before the event at Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages

The Dinner

The superb dinner was prepared by Chef Thomas Leonard.

First Course

Wood Grilled Prosciutto Wrapped Figs
Walnuts, Frisee, Mixed Berry-Balsamic


Chateau Daugay 2008

Panos Kakaviatos: “Because Chateau Daugay 2008 was so smooth and even somewhat light while the 2009 more voluminous and tannic (ripe tannins), I decided to reverse the order and have the 2008 go first with the delectable wood grilled prosciutto wrapped figs, followed by the richer 2009 to better match the second plate of Hudson Valley Foie Gras with pan seared sea scallop in a port reduction sauce with poached pear.”

Second Course

Pan Seared Sea Scallop and Hudson Valley Foie Gras
Toasted Brioche, Poached Pear, Port Reduction


Chateau Daugay 2009


Third Course

Pepper Crusted Bigeye Tuna
Chaterelles, Truffled Sherry Vinaigrette, Wild Mushroom Risotto


Chateau Daugay 2005

Panos Kakaviatos: “Another reversal: instead of the Daugay 2006 preceding the 2005, I opted to serve the 2005 – whose tannins and structure were far more imposing – with the pepper crusted bigeye tuna (albeit the strong pepper notes, balanced by the strong tannin of the 2005, seemed a touch obtrusive). The fourth course of wood grilled prawns and Duroc pork belly served over a bed of white beans (not unlike a Cassoulet) proved a fine match for the more plump and friendly 2006 Daugay.”


Forth Course

Wood Grilled Prawns and Duroc Pork Belly
Rainbow Carrots, White Beans, Spiced Pork Jus


Chateau Daugay 2006

Fifth Course

Randall Lineback Veal Short Rib Ragout
Fava Beans, Pearl Onions, Potato Puree


Chateau Angélus 2008

Dark red in the glass, notes of coffee, blackberry and licorice on the nose, ending with black cherry liqueur and dark chocolate flavors, with a lighter edge to the tannic structure and plenty of freshness to the middle. US$ 240


Dessert - Cheese Plate


Chateau Angélus 2005

53% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc. Dark red in the glass, attack of chocolate, truffle, mint, licorice and mineral notes on the nose, endless layers of rich and ripe fruit, coupled with silky tannins, an extremely intense wine, a great pleasure to taste. US$ 420

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