Rhône
Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours led by Annette Schiller took place
from October 13 - October 23. The tour started in Lyon and ended in Châteauneuf-du-Pap/ Avignon. There were 8 of us including Annette and me.
The
Rhône Valley is one of the oldest wine regions in France, and the second
largest after Bordeaux. The Greeks introduced viticulture in the 4th
century BC. Later the Romans came and brought viticulture to a different
level. Since then the world has discovered Rhône wines and some of the
most famous wines come from the Rhône Valley. The vineyards are located
on both sides of the river.
The Rhône Valley is divided into two
distinctively different regions: the Northern Rhône and the Southern
Rhône.
The Northern Rhône stretches for 60 miles from Vienne – south of
Lyon – to Valence, and produces just 5% of Rhône wines. The region has a
continental climate with pronounced seasons. Here we explore the right
bank: Côte Rôtie, Saint-Joseph, Cornas, Condrieu, etc and the left bank:
Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage.
As the Rhône river flows southward and
the valley widens the climate changes. It becomes more Mediterranean
with long, warm summers and mild winters. The landscape is much flatter
and a variety of soils can be found: alluvial soils, limestone subsoils,
sand, gravel, stones.
We tasted the entire range of Rhône wines:
reds, whites, rosé, sweet, fortified wines. We discovered Gigondas,
Vavqueyras, Tavel, etc. and of course we had a special focus on
the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape region with its very special terroir of
the ‘galets': huge pepples that give the soil its distinctive
character.
A journey to the Rhône Valley would not be complete without visiting Avignon,
the city that was the seat of the papacy for the better part of the
14th century; Arles, where Vincent Van Gogh painted some of his most
iconic works; the Pont du Gard, the Roman aqueduct bridge built in the
first century AD that was part of a sophisticated system bringing water
to the Roman colony of Nîmes; and a stay in a Provençal resort to grasp
the southern Rhône spirit.
October 12 - Arrival Day
Most
of us arrived a day or even more before the tour started. Annette and I
arrived on the evening of October 12, coming by train from Frankfurt.
As has become a tradition, Annette and I always go to the
Le Broc'Bar, a small
neighborhood bar we all dream about, just next to our hotel
Grand Hôtel des Terreaux.
Colorful chairs on the terrace beneath the glow of white lights strung
from a large mulberry tree. As always, we had saucisson sec,
Saint-Marcellin cheese and a bottle of Rhône rouge. We finished the
evening with a beer.
Grand Hôtel des Terreaux in Lyon, a 4 star Art-Deco hotel in the heart of Old Lyon, the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It combines the atmosphere of an old-fashioned 19th century town house with a modern, innovative décor. It also has a small indoor pool and hot tub.
October 13 - Day 1Annette spent the morning preparing for the tour, while I went to one of Lyon's Sunday morning markets, the St. Antooine Market, a large outdoor food market on the banks of the Soane river.
The tour started at 2pm in the Grand Hôtel des Terreaux with a meet&greet and an introduction to the Rhône wine region by Annette Schiller, followed by a guided sightseeing walking tour of Lyon.
We had our first joint, 3-course dinner (Menu Tradition - entrée, plat, dessert) at Grand Café des Négociants, a stunning place with its Second Empire decor. 
October 14 - Day 2
This was the first of three days we spent in the Northern Rhône.
At Maison M. Chapoutier, our host took us to the foot of the famous Hermitage hill,
before a seated tasting of high-end Chapoutier wines.
Lunch in a brasserie Route N7 in Tain l'Hermitage was with a wonderful view of the Hermitage vineyard.
In the afternoon, we went to Domaine Jaboulet Philippe et Vincent. Philippe was for 30 years the director of production at Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné before the Jaboulet family sold it in 2006. The wines of Philippe and Vincent Jaboulet are brought to the USA by Bonhomie Wine Imports.
On the way there, we stopped at Valrhona, the famous chocolate producer.
The 3-course dinner was with a view again, at Le Quai in Tain l'Hermitage on the opposite site of the Rhône river. The restaurant has a Bib Gourmand in the MICHELIN Guide.
We stayed at Hôtel Fac & Spera in Tain-Hermitage, a 4 star fitness and spa hotel – recently beautifully renovated - belonging to Maison Chaputier situated in the center of town at the foot of the famous Hermitage vineyards and just 200m from the banks of the Rhône river.
October 15 - Day 3
This was the second of three days we spent in the Northern Rhône.
We started the day in Tain L'Hermitage right at the banks of the Rhône river at Ferraton Père & Fils, an elite winemaker of the Northern Rhône. Jerome Nuss showed us the wine cellar and led a tasting in the tasting room. The wines are available in the USA through @Sera Wine Imports.
The next stop was @Domaine Yves Cuilleron in Chavany, where we enjoyed a portfolio tasting led by Thibaut Jager.
We had a "Menu du Jour" lunch at @Le Bistro de Serine in Ampuis, a block away from DOMAINE GUIGAL.
The whole afternoon was taken up by Guigal with our host Kim Conley from California (who now runs the @Les Enfants de la Rhone wine bar in Condrieu with her French husband), first, doing a tour of the impressive winemaking facilities of Guigal in Ampuis,
and, second, sitting in the garden of @Chateau d'Ampuis doing a tasting of high-end Guigal wines.
Back in Tain L'Hermitage in the evening, Annette and I went to Toulon on the other side of the Rhône river and discovered Le Moderne, a wine bar focussing on "natural wines" opened by @Romane Vallon and her husband Raphael Vallon recently.
There we bumped into Alice Feiring, the famous American "natural wine" journalist, book author and facebook friend of mine. Her most recent book is "To Fall In Love, Drink This: A Wine Writer's Memoir" (2022, Simon and Schuster).
October 16 - Day 4
This was the third and last day in the Northern Rhône.
The day started at Cave Sebastien Blachon in Saint-Jean de Muzols, a small and new producer that is not yet represented in the USA.
In contrast, Domaine Alain Graillot in Pont-de-l'Isere, where we went next, is known to winelovers throughout the world. Owner/ winemaker Maxime Graillot, who we had met earlier at 2941 Restaurant in Washington DC, gave us a comprehensive tour - vineyard, cellar, tasting - including tasting from barrel and from bottle. Several of us regarded the visit of Domaine Alain Graillot as the best of the whole Rhône Valley tour. The wines of Maxime Graillot are available in the USA through Elite Wines Laurent Givry.
Lunch today was a high-end gourmet lunch with wine-pairing at la Grande Table Maison Chabran in Pont d'Isere. In his high-days Michel Chabran used to have 2 MICHELIN Guide stars and to play in the same league as Paul Bocuse, Michel Rostang, Roger Vergé, to name a few. Today, it is run by his son Louis Chabran, who came to the table to greet us as did Michel Chabran. A memorable lunch at an iconic restaurant that is working on its come-back.
The last event in the Northern Rhône Valley was at Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné in Tain-l'Hermitage, a tasting of 4 high-end Jaboulet wines.
At around 5:30 pm we left the Northern Rhône and drove for about an hour to @Hostellerie Domaine de Cabasse in Seguret, in the Southern Rhône, where we had a light dinner and spent the night there.
Hôtellerie du Domaine de Cabasse in Séguret, a 3 star hotel, is part of the wine estate Domaine De Cabasse. The view up to the village of Séguret clinging to the rugged mountain behind the domaine is breathtaking. The calm atmosphere and the great outdoor swimming pool hidden in a quiet garden surrounded by vineyards gives it a true Provençal feeling.
October 17 - Day 5This was our first day in the Southern Rhône. The day started with a tasting at @Domaine Alary in Cairanne., a recommendation of one of the tour participants. Jean Etienne Alary was our host. Senior boss Denis Alary joined us for part of the tasting.
The second winery we visited in the morning was @Domaine Chaume Arnaud in Vinsobres. Valerie Chaume Arnaud welcomed us. Virginia Fréguin, the wife of Alexandre Freguin, UK Best Sommelier 2018, who we had met on the previous Rhône tour, led the tasting. Domaine Chaume Arnaud is available in the Washington DC area through Elite Wines/ Laurent Givry.
We had lunch in the village of Séguret at restaurant Le Mesclun. Séguret literally hugs the hillside topped by the ruins of its feudal château. Séguret is one of the official "most beautiful villages in France". Two us us bought some art work there.
Lunch.
We spent the afternoon at Domaine Saint Gayan in Gigondas, Southern Rhône. This family wine state has been established in 1703 and has always been one of the top wine estates in the southern Rhône. Owner/ winemaker Christian-Yves Carré de Lusançay was our host.
Short stop in Gigondas.
Back at Domaine de Cabasse, our hotel for 2 nights, we had dinner at the estate. As the chef is from the Indian Ocean and Annette and I lived in Madagascar for 3 years, Annette and chose from his special card of Mauritian/ Malagasy food.
October 18 - Day 6
This was our second day in the Southern Rhône.
The day started with a tour and tasting at Domaine des Pasquiers in Sablet. Owners/ winemakers @Jean Claude Lambert, Philippe Lambert and @Perrin Lambert received us. The wines of Domaine des Pasquiers are readily available at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, a direct importer of the #excellent Pasquiers wines.
The second winery we visited in the morning was @Domaine la Ligiere in Beaume-de-Venise, where we enjoyed a tasting in the front-yard of the estate.
We had a 3-course "Menu du Jour" lunch in Beaumes-de-Venise at @Restaurant Auberge Saint Roch, a wife/ husband operation with Isabelle in the kitchen and Johann taking care of us. Johann is from the island of Corsica and we had excellent wines from Corsisa for lunch.
In the afternoon, we branched out to the AOC Ventoux, which does not belong to the AOC Côtes du Rhône. We had a cellar tasting with @Corinne Faravel, who is from the Nahe wine region in Germany and owns and runs Domaine La Martinelle in Lafare, on the other side of the Dentelle from Gigondas and Vacqueras. Corinne is married to Thierry Faravel, owner/ winemaker at the iconic Domaine La Bouïssière in Gigondas. Domaine La Martinelle is represented in the USA by North Berkeley Imports.
The day ended at Hotel Mas de l'Oulivié in @Les Baux de Provence, where we also had dinner. Shortly before reaching the hotel, we had an amazing view of Les Baux de Provence.
Hôtel Le Mas de L’Oulivié in Les Baux is a 4 star traditional Provençal country house style hotel sitting in the center of an olive grove at the foot of the rocky, steep slopes of the village of Les Baux de Provence. The beautifully landscaped pool invites for a relaxing swim.
At the hotel, we were right in the middle of the Provence. We had reached the southern tip of our tour. We spent 2 nights at the beautiful Mas de l'Oulive.
October 19 - Day 7
From Les Baux de Provence we drove further south to visit @Mas de Gourgonnier. This is a family domaine that makes olive oil and wine. It is available in the US through Skurnik Wines & Spirits. Owner/ winemaker Eve Cartier took us to the olive trees, the vineyards, the wine cellar and the tasting room, where we enjoyed a wine and olive oil tasting.
Lunch at Restaurant Le Mas Teulière in Maussane-les-Alpilles was pretty good. The aunt of our waiter did the cooking: "100% home-made".
The afternoon was devoted to Arles, the city of the Roman Empire and the painter van Gogh.
Back at Hotel Mas de l'Oulivié in @Les Baux de Provence in the later afternoon, Annette and I had a drink at the pool,
before having dinner with the group in the hotel.
Sunday. No winery visits today. Focus was on culture.
We
spent the morning at the Pont du Gard, the Roman aqueduct bridge built in the first century AD,
where we also had lunch (with an amasing view of the Pont du Gard).
( Hôtel Mercure, Centre Palais des Papes, is a 4 star very modern hotel in an ideal location. The famous sites – the Pont d’Avignon and the Palais des Papes, as well as restaurants, shops, wine bars, and the city wall are just steps away).
we enjoyed a guided tour of the Palace of the Pope
and of the so-called "Pont d' Avignon".
The evening was "free". Some of us went to a
MICHELIN Guide-starred restaurant. Annette and I stared the evening with a beer on the main square,
followed by a light dinner with Naomi and John.Good night.
October 21 - Day 9
First of 2 full days in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
We started out at #worldclass Domaine Pegau, where, after a tour of the cellar, owner/ winemaker Laurence Feraud showed us her wines. We also met long-time winemaker Andreas Lenzenwöger (from Austria).
From Pegau we drove to Vignobles Alain JAUME, where owner/ winemaker Hélène Jaume did a vineyard and cellar tour with us,
before we sat down for lunch at the estate - with the delicious food of Chef Axel Thomas and 9 #worldclass wines of Alain Jaume.
After a long lunch we went to Domaine Berthet-Rayne, where owner/ winemaker Laure Berthet-Rayne (Laure Capeau) did a cellar tour
and a tasting with us. The wines of Berthet-Rayne are available in the Washington DC area through Elite Wines.
The evening was "free", but we all went together to a brasserie in the old part of Avignon near "Les Halles", the central food market.
October 22 - Day 10Second of 2 full days in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. We checked out from our hotel in Avignon and drove to Lirac where we visited @Château de Ségriès, which Robert Parker called "a super value treasure trove in the Southern Rhône. Owner/ Winemaker Henri de Lanzac was our host. The wines are available in the USA through Kysela Père et Fils.
We tasted 5 Château de Beaucastel wines in the Boutique Famille Perrin, who owns Beaucastel, in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Right next to it is the Restaurant La Mule du Pape, where we had lunch on the terrasse.
In the afternoon, we went to @Chateau Gigognan in Sorgues, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The cellar is an impressive state-of-the art cellar and we had the pleasure to meet the head winemaker Jenna Lelay, who features prominently in the 2025 Bettane+Desseauve, a leading French wine guide.
The visited ended with a seated tasting.
Dinner and overnight-stay was at Hostellerie du Chateau des Fines Roches, a castle sitting in the middle of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards.
Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a 5 star exquisite castle hotel. Approaching the hotel takes your breath away. The medieval and Provencal fantasy style castle was built in the 19th century. It sits high on a hill overlooking the Châteauneuf du Pape vineyards, with gorgeous views to the town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and as far as to Avignon and the Luberon in the distance.
After relaxing at the pool,
Chef Hugo Loridan Fombonne prepared for us a MICHELIN Guide star level 7-course dinner.
This was the last day of the tour in the Rhône Valley. The next morning, Annette had arranged taxis that took us to the railway station in Avignon. Annette and I went to Marseille to catch a plane. All the others went to Paris by TGV.
Related Postings on schiller-wine (Published and Forthcoming):
Arriving in Lyon: Saucisson Sec, Saint-Marcellin Cheese and a Bottle
of Rhône Rouge at Le Broc'Bar for Dinner - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy
WineTours
Sunday Morning Stroll on the St. Antoine Market on the
Banks of the Soane River Market in Lyon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy
WineTours
Meet&Greet + Introduction to the Rhône Valley Region
at Grand Hôtel des Terreaux in Lyon and Guided Sightseeing Tour of Lyon
- Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
"Menu Tradition" at Grand Café des Négociants - Created in 1864 - in Lyon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
At the Foot of the Hermitage Hill and Tasting at Maison M. Chapoutier in Tain l’Hermitage - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch with a View of the Hermitage Hill at Brasserie Route N7 in Tain l’Hermitage - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Quick Stop at Valrhona, the Famous Chocolate Producer, in Tain l’Hermitage - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet, Croze-Hermitage, with Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
3-course Dinner at Restaurant Le Quai (Michelin Bib Gourmand) in Tain L’Hermitage - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Caveau Ferraton Père & Fils in Tain L’Heremitage, with Jerome Nuss - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Yves Cuilleron in Chavanay, Northern Rhône, with Thibaut Jager - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Next to Maison Guigal: Lunch at Le Bistro de Serine in Ampuis - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour at Maison Guigal and Guigal Tasting at Château d’Ampuis, with Kim Conley - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Focus on "Natural Wine": Meeting Alice Feiring at Le Moderne Wine Bar of Romane Vallon in Toulon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting in the Cellar at Cave Sébastien Blachon in Saint-Jean de Muzols, Northern Rhône, with Sébastien Blachon - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard
Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting from Barrel and from Bottle at Domaine
Alain Graillot in Pont-de-l’Isère, Northern Rhône, with Maxime Graillot - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
High-end Wine Pairing Lunch at La Grand Table Maison Chabran, with Chef Louis Chabran and Legend Michel Chabran - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
High-end Tasting at Paul Jaboulet Aîné in Tain-l’Hermitage, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Alary in Cairanne, Southern Rhône, with Jean Etienne Alary and Senior Boss Denis Alary - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Chaume-Arnaud in Vinsobres, Southern Rhône, with Valérie Chaume-Arnaud and Virginia Fréguin - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Le Mesclun in Séguret, with Artist Chef Christophe Bonzi - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
and Cellar Tour at Domaine Saint Gayan in Gigondas, Southern Rhône,
with Owner/ Winemaker Christian-Yves Carré de Lusançay - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner at Restaurant Domaine de Cabasse, Séguret - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine des Pasquiers in Sablet, Southern Rhône, with Jean Claude, Philippe and Perrin Lambert - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting in the Front-yard at Domaine La Ligière in Beaumes-de-Venise - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
3-course
Lunch at Restaurant Auberge Saint Roch in Beaumes-de-Venise, with the
Husband and Wife Team Johann and Isabelle from Corsica - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting in the Cellar at Domaine La Martinelle in Lafare, Ventoux, with Owner/ Winemaker Corinne Faravel - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Charcuterie and Cheese Dinner with Rosé Wines at Hôtel Le Mas de l’Oulivié, Les Baux de Provence - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Olive
Trees Tour, Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Mas de
Gourgonnier in Mouriès, Alpilles, with Owner/ Winemaker Eve Cartier - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
3-course Lunch at Le Mas Teulière in Maussane-les-Alpilles - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Van Gogh and the Romans: Sightseeing in Arles - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch with a View at Restaurant Les Terrasses at the Pont du Gard - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Avignon - Town of the Popes: Guided Tour of the Palace of the Popes and of Pont Saint-Bénézet - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Light Dinner in Avignon at the Palace of the Popes - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine du Pègau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Owner/ Winemaker Laurence Féraud and Winemaker Andreas Lenzenwöger (from Austria) - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard
Tour, Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Vignobles Alain Jaume,
Domaine Grand Veneur in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Hélène Jaume and Chef Axel Thomas - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Berthet-Rayne in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Owner/ Winemaker Laure Berthet-Rayne (Laure Capeau) - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Light Dinner in the old part of Avignon near "Les Halles", the Central Food Market - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Bottleing and Tasting at Château de Ségriès in Lirac, with Owner/ Winemaker Henri de Lanzac - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting Château de Beaucastel Wines at Boutique Famille Perrin in the Village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at La Mule du Pape in the Center of Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Château Gigognan in Sorgues, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Head Winemaker Jenna Le Lay - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Michelin-star
level Wine-pairing Dinner at Hôtellerie du Château des Fines Roches in
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Chef Hugo Loridan-Fombonnet - Rhône Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
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