Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours took place from August 28 – Friday, September 06, 2024. We spent 10 days visiting top wine estates in five wine regions, tasting fabulous Rieslings and Pinot Noir (aka Spätburgunder), meeting world-renowned wine makers, travelling through the world’smost beautiful wine regions, cruising on the romantic Rhein river, looking at dizzying steep vineyards along the Rhein and Mosel rivers, and delving deep into German history and culture: Rheinhessen • Rheingau • Mittelrhein • Mosel • Nahe
The Nahe wine region, with 10,000 acres one of the smaller ones, follows the Nahe river which originates in the Federal State of Saarland and meets the Rhein in Bingen. The region is protected by the Hunsrück hills from the northern winds and enjoys a temperate climate.
The Nahe wine region is the region in Germany with the most diverse geological formations making it very difficult to claim a distinctive “Nahe” character of the wines. The Nahe has180 soil varieties: entire rock cycle, chalk, sand, gravel, all types of clay, loess, quartzite, slate, limestone, which provides for many different types of wines. 77% of Nahe wines are white, predominantly Riesling but also Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner, and all white Burgundy grapes. The rest is mainly Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir).
Weingut H. Dönnhoff (VDP), Oberhausen, Nahe
The Dönnhoff family has been making wines for more than 250 years, but a new era started when Helmut Dönnhoff began making wine in 1971. He started out with a vineyard of 10 acres, and through careful acquisition he now cultivates 60 acres of the best vineyards in the Nahe valley.
Helmut Dönnhoff has become a living legend of German wine and is celebrated as one of Germany’s very best producers. He is committed to making the most out of the terroir to attain the ultimate in quality. The
majority of the grapes planted are Riesling, but Dönnhoff also produces outstanding Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. We will have the honour of learning from Helmut Dönnhoff about his philosophy of wine making and will taste the wines under his guidance.
The Dönnhoff family first came to the Nahe region 250 years ago, establishing a traditional farm in the village of Oberhäusen an der Nahe, which included livestock and vegetable gardens in addition to some grape growing. Oberhäusen and this part of the Nahe river valley is very pastoral; it feels far away from the relative hustle and bustle of the Rheingau and wine tourism. This is not Napa Valley. The countryside is serene and beautiful, marked by steep hillside vineyards in the succession of villages following the river from Norheim to Niederhausen, through Oberhäusen, ending in Schlössbockelheim.
The estate was started by Helmut Dönnhoff’s grandfather, Hermann, in the 1920s. Helmut took over from his father, Hermann Jr. in 1966; at that time there were only 4 hectares under vine and still quite a bit of farmland, which was rented out. In 1971 the farmland was sold and Helmut turned his full attention to producing quality wine. He worked the vines in Oberhäusen, expanding slowly and naturally. His successes followed hard work, commitment, and the understanding that “the vineyards speak for themselves – you just have to hear them.” Helmut, who has spent years honing his skills, finding the right sites, and developing a personal philosophy for winemaking, says, “I express myself clearly and so do my wines.”
Helmut is a very instinctive winemaker with a natural touch that he’s clearly passed on to his son Cornelius, who joined him at the winery 2007. The Dönnhoffs believe in craft and workmanship with the understanding that “winemaking alone cannot bring quality; it can only retain the available quality.” In the 40+ years that have passed since Helmut began his work some things have changed and shifted, but the commitment to excellence and transparency above all has remained constant from one generation to the next. “It has been a long road,” remarks Helmut, looking back at 44 vintages and a period when his wines were not always as internationally recognized and lauded as they are now.
The Estate has grown to 25 hectares but both father and son feel that this is as large as they want to be; more growth would mean less time in the vineyards and cellar, where they feel most at home and in their element. Cornelius is as thoughtful as his father and the two share the same view on winemaking, viticulture, and taste in wine; balance and “Das ganze ding muss klingen – The whole thing must be sound” are at the center of their philosophy. With the addition of Norheimer Kirscheck and Dellchen in the mid-1990s and Roxheimer Höllenpfad in 2010, the estate is comprised of nine different single vineyard sites, all classified as Grand Cru. The fact that Dönnhoff selects only three sites to produce Grosse Gewächse-style wines is natural when discussing wine with the family. “We have to think of what we can do for the vineyard – each one has a special talent,” says Cornelius.
Grapes are handpicked at the height of ripeness rather than by sugar levels, and each site is fermented individually with native yeasts. The winery was designed to have total capacity in either oak or steel, allowing Dönnhoff to vinify and age wines according to what they feel the wines need, not what they have room for. The oak here is Stückfass (1000 Liter), made from an incredible cooper in Bad Kreuznach called Hösch, not well known outside of Germany. The wood for Dönnhoff’s casks comes from the Lemberg forest, directly across from the Leistenberg vineyard. The staves are twice as thick as the average 1000L cask and are seasoned outside for 7 years at the minimum, often for 12 years, which results in a very neutral barrel. Regardless, Riesling never goes in a new cask here – the first three passes are used for Weiss and Grauburgunder. If a wine has had enough oxygen in oak it will go into barrel and vice versa. Many tasters assume that all of Dönnhoff’s wines are 100% in steel as there is never perceptible oak flavor. Decisions for elevage are made by taste and taste alone – analytics are ignored. “I make wines for myself, not for the market,” says Helmut. The estate recently became part of Fair’n’Green, a new sustainable certification that is supported by both the German Government and the Frauhofer Institute, one Europe’s top research organizations. This certificate doesn’t involve money from any of the wine growers involved; it is not a marketing tool, but a way for growers to share information and improve wines and vineyards for the future generations.
The Single Site Wines:
“There is so much more to terroir than just rocks laying there – this idea embraces the history of the soil, of the people, that have played a part in its evolution.”
Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg is a steep vineyard with the very best steep parcels around the Felsentürmchen in the midst of the magnificent Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg site. The story is that this castle was built by an Italian Count for his German bride, on the spot on the hillside where the last rays of sun hit the mountain on the longest day of the year. Outstanding Riesling terroir with a soil of red volcanic igneous rock, a mélange of porphyry and melaphyr. Very expressive, minerally Riesling wines and vigorous Grosse Gewächse (GGs).
Oberhäuser Leistenberg is a steep, southeastern facing slope with grey slate soil. The morning sun dries the grapes, keeping them healthy, while the afternoon sun is not so direct, allowing the grapes to ripen over a long period without becoming overripe. A perfect vineyard for Kabinett wines!
Oberhäuser Brücke is the smallest single vineyard (1.1ha) in this valley and a monopole site directly by the river, which regulates the temperature. Grey slate bedrock with loam and volcanic elements. Brücke often ripens even later than in the Hermannshöhle due to wide diurnal temperature swings along the river.
Niederhauser Hermannshöhle has been rated the best site in the Nahe for more than 100 years. It’s the benchmark by which all other sites in the valley are judged. Perfect, steeply sloping vineyard. Blackish grey slate soil with volcanic elements. Magnificent wines, dry Grosse Gewächse and noble sweet Prädikat wines are produced here. The soils are different in each parcel and the decision for style is based on the site and flavor of the wine during fermentation.
Norheimer Dellchen is a steep, terraced hollow in the volcanic cliffs rising from the Nahe river. Soils here are a mix of slate and porphyry, producing outstanding wines of mineral elegance.
Norheimer Kirschheck is one of the oldest recorded vineyards in the Nahe. Kirsche means “cherry,” and the old name suggests that wild cherries grew in the vineyards. It’s a steep south-facing site with weathered grey slate and sandstone soils.
Kreuznacher Kahlenberg was first mentioned in 1499. It’s a southern slope of gravelly loam, perfect for dry wines with the characteristic spicy flavor found in wines of the Nahe.
Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl is rich in quartzite and gravel for perfect drainage. Krötenpful means “turtle pond” and is named for the water source in the vineyard.
Roxheimer Höllenpfad is a very famous, steep, south-facing vineyard of weathered red sandstone, similar to the Roter Hang of the Rheinhessen. The old name Höllenpfad means “path to hell” and was likely named for the red sandstone, an anomaly in the Nahe.
Arriving at Weingut H. Dönnhoff (VDP), Oberhausen, Nahe
Tasting with Anne Dönnhoff
Bye -bye
Previous Visits
Pictures: Tasting with Helmut Dönnhoff and Sascha Johannes Schömel at Weingut Dönnhoff (VDP) in Oberhausen, Nahe - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Pictures: An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany
Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours: Already Released and Forthcoming Postings
Overview: Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by Ombiasy Public Relations and Wine Tours led by Annette Schiller - Facebook Day-by-day Postings
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Braunewell in Essenheim, Rheinhessen, with Stefan Braunewell - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, with Christoph Thörle, Johannes Thörle and Uta Thörle - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Grauburgunder (French: Pinot Gris - Italian: Pinot Grigio) and Dinner at Restaurant Lumen - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Eva Fricke in Eltville, Rheingau, with Eva Fricke - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Wein- und Sektgut Barth (VDP) in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Mark Barth and Alexia Putze - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe
2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Iconic
Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau (one of the Largest Wineries in
Germany): Lunch at the Abbey Tavern and Guided Tour of the Eberbach
Abbey - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
"Steinberg"
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Kloster Eberbach
(VDP) in Eltville, Rheingau, with Head-winemaker and Deputy MD Kathrin
Puff - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Wine-pairing Dinner at Restaurant Kronenschlösschen, Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Weingut Balthasar Ress Senior Boss Stefan Ress, Kronenschlösschen Maître and Head Sommelier Florian Richter (Best German Sommelier 2024 - Sommelier Union), Chef Roland Gorgosilich and Owner Johanna Ullrich - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Georg Breuer in Rüdesheim, Rheingau, with Theresa Breuer - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Johannisberg (VDP), the Iconic Rheingau Estate, with Dieter Salomon - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by
ombiasy WineTours
Lunch and Impromptu Tasting of Weingut Familie Allendorf Wines with Ulrich Allendorf and Max J. Schönleber at Restaurant Allendorf am Rhein - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn (VDP) in Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Peter Bernhard Kühn - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Massive Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler (VDP) in Assmannshausen, Rheingau, with August Kesseler - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by
ombiasy WineTours
Spectacular View of the Rhein Valley in the Mittelrhein Region (UNESCO World Heritage Region), Lunch and Wine Tasting at Weingut Lanius Knab (VDP) in Oberwesel, Mittelrhein, with Jörg Lanius - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cruise on the Rhein River in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region, from Boppard to Koblenz, with Castles and Ruins Crowning the Top of the Hills like Pearls on a String - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour of the Fortress Ehrenbreitstein in Koblenz, the Largest Historical Fortress in Europe after Gibraltar - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch and Impromptu Wine Tasting of the Wines of Weingut Madame Flöck, with Weingut Madame Flöck Owner/ Winemaker Robert Wade, Verbene Bistro Chef Tim Johnston, Restaurant Verbene Michelin starred Chef/ Owner David Weigang and Partner Verena Schimmel - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with the Locals: At the Weinfest in Winningen, Terrassenmosel - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Guided Tour of Eltz Castle, a truely Fairytale Medieval Castle in the Hills above the Mosel - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
3-course "Sommermenü" Lunch at Restaurant Heim in Hotel Reiler Hof in Reil - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Melsheimer in Reil, Middle Mosel, with Thorsten Melsheimer - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Clemens Busch (VDP) in Pünderich, Middle Mosel, with Oda Borchert - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Weingut
Dr. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef, Wines and Overnight Stay at the
Brand-new, High-end Deinhard’s Hotel in Bernkastel-Kues - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Dr.Loosen (VDP) in Bernkastel-Kues, Middle Mosel, with Anne Juchem - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Max Ferdinand Richter in Mülheim, Middle Mosel, with Dirk Richter - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch on the Mosel Terrace at Restaurant Weisser Bär in Mülheim - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Hermann Ludes in Thörnich, Middle Mosel, with Julian Ludes - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Günther Steinmetz in Brauneberg, Middle Mosel, with Sammy Steinmetz - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Matthias Hild in Wincheringen, Upper Mosel, with Matthias and Jonas Hild - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch with Wines from Luxemburg at Koeppchen Bistro-Brasserie in Wormeldange-Haut in Luxembourg - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by
ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Van Volxem (VDP) in Wiltingen, Saar, with Lukas Büchner - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy
WineTours
Asian Themed Wine-pairing Dinner at Dian's in
Bernkastel-Kues, led by Janet Cam and Annette Schiller - Germany
Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut H. Dönnhoff (VDP), Oberhausen, Nahe, with Anne Dönnhoff - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Hermannshöhle Restaurant Weck in Niederhausen - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
at Weingut Korrell Johanneshof in Bad Kreuznach, Nahe, with Sonja
Reinbold and Martin Korell - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe 2024 by ombiasy
WineTours
Wine-pairing Dinner at Restaurant Kruger-Rumpf,
Weingut Kruger-Rumpf (VDP), with Stefan Rumpf - Germany Rhein-Mosel-Nahe
2024 by ombiasy WineTours
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