Bollinger (Champagne) and Weil (Rheingau): Spectacular Winemaker Dinner at Steins Traube (1 Star Michelin) in Mainz, with Cyril Delarue (Bollinger Family), Wilhelm Weil, Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai and Chef Philipp Stein, Germany (October 2024)

 

Steins Traube in Mainz Finthen, owned and run by Alina Stein (front) and Philipp Stein (kitchen) has a Michelin star since 2021. Annette and I went there in 2022 with the Frankfurt Gourmet Group, a group of 8 wine and food aficiniados that visits high-end restaurants once a month. We enjoyed a fabolous evening.

 

See: Dinner at 1-star Michelin Restaurant Steins Traube in Mainz, with Philipp and Alina Stein, Germany, 2022

Back at Steins Traube. This time, I was there for a very special event, a winemaker dinner with Champagne Bollinger and Weingut Robert Weil. The wines were presented by 6th generation Bollinger family member Cyril Delarue, Global Sales Director, and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil. Philipp Stein, after introducing the two special guests, was in the kitchen, his wife Alina Stein headed the service team and Maria Vizsnyai took care of the wines.  

 

Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai had just returned from Düsseldorf from the Rolling Pin Convention, where the new list of Germany's top 100 chefs and top 50 sommeliers had been released. Bravo, Maria, she made it to #11 on the 2024 List of Top 50 German Sommeliers (Rolling Pin). "Kein Sprungbrett, ein Trampolin muss Maria Vizsnyai unter den Füßen gehabt haben, so schnell wie sie sich in die Top 50 der besten Sommeliers Deutschlands katapultiert hat."

 

Bollinger (schiller-wine)

Bollinger is one of the many Champagne Houses that have German roots.

Veuve Clicquot's cellar master, the German Anton Mueller, who invented with Madame Clicquor the remuage technique, married into the Ruinart family. With the Ruinart daughter, Anton Mueller created his own Champagne House, Ruinart-Mueller, which does not exist anymore. While at the helm of Ruinart-Mueller, his compatriot Joseph-Jacob Bollinger was one of his employees, before leaving Ruinart-Mueller and setting up his own Champagne House.

Joseph-Jacob Bollinger joined Mueller-Ruinart in 1822 to sell their Champagne in the Kingdoms of Bavaria, Hanover, Wuerttemberg and the Netherlands. In 1829, with his Mueller-Ruinart colleague Paul Renaudin de Villermont and with Athanase Hennequin de Villermont, Joseph-Jacob Bollinger (he took the name of Jacques Bollinger when he was naturalised French in 1854) formed the Renaudin-Bollinger Champagne House which would become the famous Bollinger Champagne House.

See also:
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France
 

Champagne Bollinger (wine-searcher)

Champagne Bollinger is one of the most famous houses in Champagne, in northern France. It is notable for its muscular, Pinot Noir-dominant cuvée, and is widely available around the world.

The house, originally known as Renaudin-Bollinger & Cie, was founded in 1829. It passed through generations of the family of Bollinger until 2008 when, for the first time in its history, the chairman came from outside of the family. Champagne Bollinger is still independently owned by Société Jacques Bollinger.  

Bollinger is located in Aÿ in the heart of Champagne, and the majority of the vines are located on premier cru and grand cru plots. The house style is focused on Pinot Noir, with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier being used to enhance rather than dominate. Pinot Noir makes up no less than 60 percent of all of the Bollinger collection, and there is no Blanc de Blanc in the portfolio.

Two-thirds of the grapes are estate-grown, with the rest coming from growers with a long history with the house; all plots are vinified separately to allow for each specific terroir to be fully expressed. Bollinger manages 169 hectares (417 acres) of vineyards. 

Bollinger has a vast array of barrels dating back to 1903. The majority are purchased from a French négociant at three years of age and are maintained by an in-house cooper until 30 years of age. This allows for the roundness of style and integrated flavor typical of Bollinger.

The house also has a large portfolio of reserve wines kept under cork rather than the more traditional crown cap. This is time-consuming and expensive, with hand riddling and disgorgement needed, which is why the majority of Champagne houses do not follow this practice.

The Bollinger collection encompasses non-vintage brut and rosé wines, La Grand Année Brut and Rosé, as well as prestige cuvées, RD, Vielles Vignes Francaises and La Cote aux Enfants. RD (meaning recently disgorged) was the brainchild of Madame Bollinger in the mid-20th Century, a major innovation of the time. This cuvée is kept on its lees much longer than any other wine in the range. Disgorging the bottle just before release – hence the "recently disgorged" – allows for a combination of freshness and age.

In recent years, Bollinger RD has been the favorite of James Bond in the Licence to Kill, Skyfall and Spectre movies. This highlights a historical relationship between the two brands, which began on paper in the 1956 novel Diamonds are Forever; Ian Fleming wrote that Bollinger was the favorite champagne of Her Majesty's secret agent.   

Société Jacques Bollinger also includes Ayala Champagne, Langlois-Chateau, Delamain and Maison Chanson within its holdings. In 2002, Bollinger expanded into Australia and established Tapanappa in partnership with the Cazes family of Lynch Bages and Brian and Ann Croser.  

Lobenberg -Champagner Bollinger

Der unverkennbare Stil von Champagner Bollinger beruht im Prinzip auf fünf Säulen: 1. Eigene Weinberge. Champagne Bollinger besitzt rund 160 Hektar eigene Weinberge. Davon 85 % Grands und Premiers Crus. 2. Pinot Noir. Die unverkennbar filigrane Pinot-Noir-Traube gibt den Champagnern einen besonders charmanten, sehr weinigen Stil. 3. Die Reserveweine. Die Special Cuvée besteht aus einem Großteil an Reserveweinen, der den Hausstil repräsentiert. Zudem reifen die Grundweine in Magnumflaschen, die anstatt wie heute weitgehend üblich, nicht mit Kronkorken, sondern mit echtem Kork verschlossen werden, da dies eine kontrollierte Reifung erlaubt. 4. Die Holzfässer. Bei Champagne Bollinger wird bewusst auf Mikrooxidation gesetzt. Die Grundweine reifen im Holz. 5. Die Reifezeit. Die komplette Kollektion von Champagne Bollinger reift stets doppelt, wenn nicht gar drei Mal länger als die Appellation es vorgibt.

Bereits die Special Cuvée, der Einstieg in die Bollinger-Welt, verbringt über drei Jahre in der Flasche, bis sie dégorgiert wird. Beim Grande Année gibt Bollinger fünf Jahre Reife vor, die R. D. (Récemment Dégorgé) muss mindestens volle acht Jahre auf der Flasche reifen. Bei allen Weinen wird nur die erste Pressung für den Grundwein akzeptiert, der Most aus den kräftiger gepressten Trauben wird weiterverkauft. Alle Champagner kommen somit erst trinkreif auf den Markt, auch wenn Kenner schon lange wissen, dass die Jahrgangs- und Prestige-Champagner außerordentlich gut reifen. Für den R. D. werden nur Grundweine aus den besten und lagerfähigsten Jahrgängen verarbeitet. Die niedrige Dosage von 3–4 Gramm pro Liter ergibt einen ungeschminkten Jahrgangschampagner, der durch seine lange Lagerung auf der Hefe enorm vielschichtig und balanciert daherkommt. Der bewusst als weinig zu bezeichnende Geschmack, der von der Ausbauart und Betonung der Pinot-Noir-Traube herrührt, erlaubt eine leicht angehobene Serviertemperatur von circa 8–10 Grad Celsius. Die kraftvolle Art prädestiniert alle Bollinger Champagner daher auch zu idealen Speisebegleitern, die ganze Menüs abdecken können.

Weingut Robert Weil

Founded in 1875, Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich is the Rheingau’s #1 estate and one of Germany’s best. Four generations and over a century ago Dr. Robert Weil, who was a Professor of German at the Sorbonne, was forced to leave Paris because of the Franco-Prussian War (1870/1871). He subsequently joined his brother August in Kiedrich in the Rheingau and established the Robert Weil winery.

Pictures: Christian and Annette Schiller with Wilhelm Weil at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich

Dr. Robert Weil purchased his first vineyards in Kiedrich and moved there in 1875, when he bought the estate manor from the heirs of Sir John Sutton, an English baronet. A man of vision, he built up the estate by purchasing 2 local wine estates and the vineyards of Count von Fürstenberg. Contacts throughout the world and the production of great wines brought rapid growth to the Weingut Robert Weil.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Wilhelm Weil. Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany and Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Today, Weingut Robert Weil is managed by Wilhelm Weil, who owns the winery jointly with Suntory from Japan. With 75 hectares under vine, it is one of the largest estates in the Rheingau. The historical manor house, the ultra-modern cellars and the vinothek stand side by side in a beautiful park – the same synthesis of old and new that is reflected in the estate’s philosophy of winemaking.

In 1988, the estate was sold by Robert Weil to the Japanese beverage group Suntory, and his son Wilhelm appointed as estate director.

Pictures: At Weingut Robert Weil with Jan Christensen. See: Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

The vineyards are planted 100% with Riesling. The estate’s dedication to Riesling since 1875 has led numerous observers of the international wine world to regard Weingut Robert Weil as a worldwide symbol of German Riesling culture. A Riesling wine of the 1893 vintage, grown on the Gräfenberg site, made the estate famous. The imperial Habsburg court in Vienna purchased 800 bottles of this wine at a price of 16 gold Marks per bottle in 1900. The 1920 vintage of the Kiedricher Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese is described as a Zeppelin wine, as it was served on board the LZ 127 „Graf Zeppelin” dirigible on its circumnavigation of the world in 1929. Robert Weil’s top botrytis wines are sold today at extremely high prices - they are among the most expensive in the world. The current world record (in 2006) is held by a 1999 Weil Trockenbeerenauslese, at DM 5.000 (EUR 2500).

Picture: Annette Schiller, Wilhelm Weil, Ernst Loosen and Christian Schiller. See: Rheingau Riesling Gala 2013 at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Weingut Robert Weil’s top vineyards all belong to the group of the highlying sites of the Rheingau: Kiedricher Klosterberg, Kiedricher Turmberg and Kiedricher Gräfenberg. Inclination (up to 60 %), exposure (southwest) and the ability of the barren stony soils to absorb heat are the factors that make for three perfect Riesling sites. These conditions, as well as ideal circulation, enable the grapes to remain on the vine for a long time, ripening well into November.

Steins Traube - Michelin

 

Thanks to the commitment of the Stein family, what began in the early 20C as a village tavern has evolved over the decades into a modern restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine. Owner and head chef Philipp Stein represents the sixth generation at the helm. His outstanding culinary talent is such that there is no need for ostentation or gimmicks in his dishes. What may, at first glance, seem simple is actually exceedingly complex in terms of flavour and harmony, yet accessible for all that. His dishes demonstrate a restrained elegance, but he is also able to draw on a bolder sense of innovation when he deems it necessary. Choosing where to sit is not easy, because the smart and modern yet cosy interior is just as inviting as the beautiful inner courtyard. Friendly service comes courtesy of Alina Stein, your cordial young hostess.

Chef Philipp Stein

Philipp Stein was borne in Mainz, where his parents were the fifth generation to own and run the Steins Traube restaurant. In 2019, at the age of 29, Philipp and his wife Alina took over the family restaurant, after a period of renovation. Alina Stein manages the service in the Steins Traube restaurant. 

After working with Dirk Maus, at the Ente in Wiesbaden, with Dieter Müller and at Waldhotel Sonnora, in 2014, Philipp Stein took up his first position as head chef at the Favorite restaurant in Mainz. In the same year, he was awarded a Michelin star and became the youngest Michelin-starred chef in Germany in that year. Philipp and Alina Stein met at the Favorite restaurant, where Alina holding the position of restaurant manager. Since 2017 Philipp Stein he has been a regular television chef on the ARD program ARD-Buffet.sommmelier.podigee: Kein Sprungbrett, ein Trampolin muss Maria Vizsnyai unter den Füßen gehabt haben, so schnell wie sie sich in die Top 50 der besten Sommeliers Deutschlands katapultiert hat.

Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai

 

Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai had just returned from Düsseldorf from the Rolling Pin Convention, where the new list of Germany's top 100 chefs and top 50 sommeliers had been released. Bravo, Maria, she made it to #11 on the 2024 List of Top 50 German Sommeliers (Rolling Pin).

 

sommelier.podigee.io: Kein Sprungbrett, ein Trampolin muss Maria Vizsnyai unter den Füßen gehabt haben, so schnell wie sie sich in die Top 50 der besten Sommeliers Deutschlands katapultiert hat.

 

Maria Vizsnyai: Sommeliere zu sein ist für mich mehr als ein Beruf. Das Foto in den Weinbergen ist ja sehr passend gewählt. Mein Job ist mein Hobby und meine große Leidenschaft!Mein Ziel ist es, all die verschiedenen Facetten von Terroirs, über die Charakteristik des Jahrgangs bis hin zur Philosophie des Winzers, welche der Wein widerspiegelt, zu zeigen und unseren Gästen transparent und authentisch zu vermitteln.

 

Arriving

Zum Aperitif

Garnelen-Curry-Croustiilant

Gratinierte Austern mit Blattspinat

Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvée (Euro 60)

Menüfolge

Begrüssung

1. Course

Gateau von Elsässer Gänseleber

Rieslinggelee Zwetschge Burgundertrüffel Pistazienbrioche

2012 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese

2. Course

Sanft Gegarte Seeforelle

Waldpilzvinaigrette Petersilienmayo Rettichravioli Bucheckern

2014 Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année (Euro 160)

2015 Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année

3. Course

Lauwarmer Meeresfrüchtesalat

Limettenvinaigrette Bohnen Paprika Pinienkerne Gartenkräuter

2018 Weingut Robert Weil Riesling Monte Vacano

2019 Weingut Robert Weil Riesling Monte Vacano

4. Course

Stör vom Grevenhof - gräuchert und gebraten 

Mandelspinat Beurre Rouge Imperialkaviar Artischockenböden

2015 Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé (Euro 260)

2008 Champagne Bollinger R.D. (Euro 390)cccc

5. Course

Ragout von Kalbsbries und Steinpilzen

Mascarponenocken Erbsen Parmesa

2019 Champagne Bollinger PN VZ (Euro 140)

2013 Champagne Bollinger La Côte aux Enfants (Euro 1400)

6. Course

Zweierlei Mieral Schwarzfederhuhn

Wilder Brocoli Haselnusskrokette Creme von Pastinake und karamelisiertem Rahm Geflügeljus mit gelben Maulbeeren

2016 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling GG
2016 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling GG

Dessert

Weisser Schokoladenkringel

Flugmango Tonkabohnen-Ananas Kokos-Mango-Sorbet Gewürz-Brickteig

2007 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese

2011 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese

Petit Four

The Wines

Thank You

Bye-bye

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