4th Annual Chardonnay Day - Chardonnay Around the World and in Pouilly-Fuissé

Picture: Pouilly-Fuissé

Today is the 4th annual Chardonnay Day. This is a global event set to run 24 hours in order to give everyone time to have a glass of Chardonnay when it makes sense in their time zone. All you have to do is share on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, Foursquare or any other social site using the #Chardonnay hash tag all day May 26th. You'll be able to search what other wine lovers are sharing by searching posts using the #Chardonnay hash tag.

See also:
Third Annual Chardonnay Day – Chardonnays Around the World, Snooth’s Top Picks and Hamilton Russell Vineyards in South Africa
A Global Event: Second Annual Chardonnay Day (@Chardonnay) #Chardonnay

Chardonnay Around the World

Chardonnay is grown wherever wine is made, from England to New Zealand, although the best Chardonnay comes from the Bourgogne. It is one of the most widely-planted grape varieties in the world, with over 175.000 hectares.

Chardonnay first rose to prominence in the Chablis, Bourgogne and Champagne regions. The Bourgogne Chardonnays were long considered the benchmark standard of expressing terroir through Chardonnay. In Chablis, Chardonnay is the only permitted AOC grape variety. The wines rarely go through malolactic fermentation or are exposed to oak. The biting, green apple-like acidity is a trademark of Chablis. In the Champagne, it is most often blended with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Champagne, Chablis and Burgundy account for more than 3/5 of all Chardonnay plantings in France.

In the US, Chardonnay found another region where it could thrive in California. The early trend to imitate the Bourgogne wines soon gave way to more buttery and oaky styles. New oak barrels coupled with malolactic fermentation were used to produce wines that were big in body and mouthfeel, and high in alcohol. In recent years, Californian winemakers have been trying to go back to more Old Word Chardonnay, leaner, using less oak and lower alcohol levels.

In Australia, the export driven wine industry was well situated for the Chardonnay boom of the 1980s and 1990s. Now being more famous for its Sauvignon Blanc production, Chardonnay was New Zealand's most widely planted grape variety until only a few years ago.

In conclusion, the area planted with Chardonnay throughout the world is estimates at over 175.000 hectares, with the US and France accounting for about half of it.

Large Chardonnay Producers in the World (in 1000 hectares)

1. USA (California 45, Oregon 3,Washington State 3)
2. France 35 (Bourgogne, Jura, Champagne, Loire Valley, Midi, Charentes).
3. Australia 23
4. Italy 12
5. Moldavia 8
6. South Africa 8
7. Chile 8

Chardonnay in the Mâconnais - Pouilly-Fuissé

Pouilly-Fuissé is a wine, known all over the world. Here are some basics: (1) Pouilly-Fuissé AOC is part of the Mâconnais, which is part of the Bourgogne. (2) In 1936, when the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC was created, 3 “Pouilly” AOCs were created: Pouilly-Fuissé AOC and Pouilly-Loché AOC plus Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC. (3) In 1971, the Saint-Veran AOC was created; it sandwiches the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC. (4) All these AOCs are located in the extreme south of the Mâconnais subregion and of the Burgundy wine region as a whole.

See:
In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Mâconnais

The Mâconnais in the Bourgogne takes its name from the provincial town of Mâcon. Most of the wine made in the Mâconnais is white wine. Chardonnay is the main grape grown.

Picture: Macon

Unlike the Cote d'Or to the north, where a densely planted strip of vineyards runs through the countryside, the vineyards of the Maconnais are more sparsely planted and interspersed with land dedicated to other forms of agriculture.

Macon has historically been most famous for its red wines. During the 20th century, however, white wine production accelerated dramatically and now represents the large majority of Maconnais wines. These whites are produced exclusively from the quintessential Burgundian variety Chardonnay.

Macon Appellations

These are the Macon appellations.

Bourgogne AOC – Interestingly, red wine made from Pinot Noir in Macon is typically sold under the more-prestigious, but broader Bourgogne AOC appellation.

Macon AOC - the generic appellation for red, white and rose wines from the Maconnais. The term Superieur may be added to denote a slightly higher alcohol level.

Macon plus name of village AOC: a number of communes within the appellation have been recognized as sources of higher-quality wines and may append their names to that of the appellation; for example, Macon Lugny.

Mâcon-Villages AOC - a title reserved for white wines.

Pouilly-Fuissé AOC
Pouilly-Loché AOC
Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC

Saint-Veran AOC

Vire-Clesse AOC – introduced in 1999.

Pouilly-Fuissé AOC

Pouilly-Fuissé is an AOC for white wine produced in the communes of Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, Vergisson and Chaintré. The AOC was created in 1936. The area - before known simply as "Pouilly - was split into three AOCs: Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles.

Pictures: The Pouilly-Fuissé Vineyards

The Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards total 750 hectares; the Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles vineyards are much smaller.

While Pouilly-Fuissé is the best-known part of Mâconnais, there are no Premier Cru or Grand Cru vineyards within the AOC.

The AOC regulations only allow Chardonnay to be used. The allowed base yield is 50 hectoliter per hectare and the grapes must reach a maturity of at least 11.0 per cent potential alcohol.

The Beaujolais King George Deboeuf grew up in Pouilly-Fuisse.

Pouilly-Fume is an AOC further up north in the Loire region, on the opposite side of the Loire from Sancerre.  It has nothing to do with Pouilly-Fuissé. Only Sauvignon Blanc is made here.

Pouilly-Fuissé Climats/Lieux-dits

In the wine world, lieu-dit is something like a single vineyard, the smallest piece of land which has a traditional vineyard name assigned to it. In some cases, lieux-dits appear on wine labels, in addition to the AOC name. This is most commonly seen for Alsace wine and Burgundy wine. In the Bourgogne, the term climat is used interchangeably with lieu-dit.

The climats of Pouilly-Fuissé are:

Chaintré : Les Chevrières, Le Clos Reyssier, les Plantes Vieilles, en Cenan
Fuissé : Les Vignes Blanches, Vers Cras, Le Clos, Les Brûlés, Les Perrières, Les Combettes
Solutré-Pouilly : En Servy, La Frérie, Aux Chailloux, Aux Morlays, Vers Cras, Au Clos
Vergisson : Les Crays, La Maréchaude, En Carmentrant, En Bulland

Picture: 2008 Pouilly-Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, En Servy

Pouilly-Loché AOC and Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC

Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles are located adjacent to the appellations Pouilly-Fuissé.

Pouilly-Loché AOC vineyards total 32 hectares and the Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC vineyards 52 hectares.

The AOC regulations only allow Chardonnay to be used. The allowed base yield is 50 hectoliter per hectare and the grapes must reach a maturity of at least 11.0 per cent potential alcohol. The three neighboring appellations all produce white wines of a similar style.

Saint-Véran AOC

Saint-Véran is a relatively new AOC, which sandwiches the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC.

The Saint-Véran AOC extends over 8 communes and is divided into two small islands separated from each other by the Pouilly-Fuissé appelation. It is made up of the villages of Davayé, Prissé and Solutré-Pouilly in the north, and Chânes, Chasselas, Leynes, Saint-Amour and Saint-Vérand in the south.

The Saint-Veran appellation covers 645 hectares. The maximum yield is 55 hectolitres/hectare, which is higher than in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation.

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Pacific Rim Winemaker’s Blog Recommends "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine" on schiller-wine

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Pacific Rim Winemaker Nicolas Quille in Oregon

Quote from the Pacific Rim Winemaker's Blog:

“For those of you guys that really enjoy digging into German laws and regulation here is an excellent blog entry from Dr Christian Schiller about sugar levels, labeling laws and capitalization in Germany. A must read: http://schiller-wine.blogspot.com/2010/01/german-wine-basics-sugar-in-grape.html”
January 27, 2010

Here is the link to the Pacific Rim Winemaker's Blog.

Here is the link to referenced posting on schiller-wine. "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine"

German Wine 101

Here are more postings “for those of you guys that really enjoy digging into German laws and regulation".

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine
German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version
Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Pacific Rim in Washington State

Pacific Rim in Washington State produces 190,000 cases of wine, almost all of which is Riesling. It is owned by the Banfi family from New York.

Pictures: Pacific Rim Winery in Washington State and Pacific Rim Wines

Randall Grahm

One of the wine world’s true iconoclasts, Randall Grahm, founded Pacific Rim. The owner of famed Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz in California started his Pacific Rim project in 1992. Unusually, he used grapes from Washington State and from Germany.

By 2006, Randall Grahm’s decided to downsize and reorganize. Randall sold his popular Cardinal Zin and Big House brands and started to spin off his Pacific Rim wines as a standalone winery in Washington State, where the US Riesling grapes came from. He worked with the Den Hoed family, longtime grape growers in the Yakima Valley, to create a winemaking facility in the shadow of Red Mountain. The Den Hoeds built the building, which they own and lease to Pacific Rim. This year, Pacific Rim has been purchased by the Banfi family, which owns an important wine import company in New York and a famous winery and vineyard in Italy.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Randall Grahm in San Francisco

I met Randall recently in San Francisco while I was there to see Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen at the San Francisco Opera. Randall was accompanied by his wife and his daughter. His wife is Japanese and this explains there is a Geisha on the Pacific Rim label.

See more:
August Kesseler’s Pinot Noir and Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen in San Francisco, USA

Nicolas Quille

Nicolas Quille accompanied the spin-off and eventual sale of Pacific Rim from beginning to the end. Nicolas joined Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz as General Manager in 2004 and initially managed the whole company, including Pacific Rim, but then focused on coordinating the spin-off of Pacific Rim and eventual sale to the Banfi family in 2010. He is now the General Manager and Winemaker for Pacific Rim winery. Nicolas came to the United States in 1997 and worked for J. Lohr and The Hogue Cellars.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Nicolas Quille in Oregon

I met Nicolas at the 1. Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium in Hillsboro near Portland (OR), where the headquarters of Pacific Rim is. We had lunch together and talked a lot about Pacific Rim.

See more:
Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro

Steven Sealock

Steven Sealock is the resident winemaker at Pacific Rim in Washington State. Steven told me that “as an Air Force brat, I lived in Germany for several years. Combine this with a German mother and you can begin to understand why Riesling has a special place in my heart. To me, Riesling and German beer is a normal accompaniment to a filling meal. So I jumped at the chance to work here at Pacific Rim, a great company dedicated to making world class Riesling.” Steven started his career in the wine industry at Columbia Winery.

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Steven Sealock at the Pacific Rim Winery

See more:
Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA

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German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, (2) Eroica, (3) Woelffer and his Schiller Wine

The Wines of Abeja, Washington State

The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon

Visiting Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, Washington State - Where Armin Diel’s Poet’s Leap Riesling is Made

Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA

August Kesseler’s Pinot Noir and Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen in San Francisco, USA

Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro

The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Giorgio Fragiacomo of Agricola Querciabella at Open Kitchen in Falls Church, Virginia

Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo was in town (Washington DC area) and presented his ultra-premium Querciabella wines at Open Kitchen in Falls Church, Virginia. Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey had prepared Tuscan food to complement the wines.

Agricola Querciabella

From the Chianti Classico DOCG region in Tuscany, Agricola Querciabella has become known among wine lovers for taking the concept of premium wines to the extreme. Agricola Querciabella is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Second, Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.

Agricola Querciabella was founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Castiglioni, a wine connoisseur and fine wine collector from Milan, who had made a fortune in the construction business, including in Mexico. Giuseppe Castiglioni initially planted vines as a hobby, but soon set about authoring with his Camartina—the flagship wine of Querciabella - a Super-Tuscan success story.

Money was not an issue when Giuseppe Castiglioni bought a run down estate in the Greve region. His main concern was to make wines that could match with the fine French wines from Bordeaux and Bourgogne that he liked to drink so much. The shift to vegan biodynamic winemaking was engineered by his son, Sebastiano Castiglioni, who took over the management of the estate in the 1990s. Under Sebastiano Castiglioni leadership, the trend of perfection is still the utmost priority.

Pictures: At the Tasting at Open Kitchen in in Falls Church, Virginia

Only the best of everything is used, like stainless steel tanks with computer control, peristaltic pumps, 100% natural yeast and only the finest of the fine oak barrels. Quality is something that the Castiglionis do not compromise upon. Also, over time, they established an elite winemaking cadre, including winemaker Guido de Santi and famed consultant and Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis.

Chemical–free viticulture was introduced at Querciabella  with the conversion to organics in 1988. This was followed by a transition to biodynamics in 2000. Today, Querciabella practices a farming and winemaking regime known  as cruelty–free biodynamics, which bars the use of animal–derived products from all phases of grape growing and winemaking.

With 74 hectares (183 acres) of prime Chianti Classico  vineyards – located in the municipalities of Greve, Panzano,  Radda and Gaiole – in addition to 32 hectares (79 acres) in  Maremma on Tuscany’s unspoiled Etruscan coast, Querciabella’ holdings represent the largest extensions of biodynamically  farmed (certified organic) vineyards in Italy, contributing extraordinary biodiversity to local and surrounding ecosystems  and serving as a sanctuary for thriving numbers of honeybee colonies.

Chianti, Chianti Classico and Sanghiovese

The Chianti region is split between Chianti and Chianti Classico. Accordingly, two separate DOCG designations apply to wines from the Chianti region: the Chianti Classico DOCG for the heartland of Chianti, and Chianti DOCG for all other Chianti regions.

Sangiovese is the signature grape of Chianti. The Sangiovese grape, like the Pino Noir, is not an easy grape variety, but has the potential of producing world class wines.

Since 2006, the use of white grape varieties such as Malvasia and Trebbiano has been prohibited in Chianti Classico. The share of Sangiovese can range from 80% to up to 100%, with the remainder either other native red grapes, like Canaiolo and Colorino, or international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Wines that do not comply with these rules – of which we tasted a number during the trip - cannot be sold as Chianti Classico.

Super Tuscans

In the 1970s, a class of wines that became known as Super Tuscans emerged. These wines were made outside DOC/DOCG regulations, but were of high quality and commanded high prices.

The Italian DOC/DOCG system is a highly specific set of production requirements that is designed to ensure a certain quality and taste corridor for all wines from a specific DOC or DOCG. It is amazing, how detailed the production requirements are for a wine to qualify as a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, for example. That the grapes come from the Brunello di Montalcion DOCG zone is just one of many requirements.

Pictures: Getting Ready - Open Kitchen Owner Hue-Chan Karels and Giorgio Fragiacomo

The advantage of such a detailed and rigid system is that consumers have a very good idea of what they get when they buy a bottle of wine, both in terms of taste and quality: No surprises, as the taste and quality range of Italian DOC/DOCG wines is rather narrow compared to other countries. But this may also be a disadvantage. If, as a winemaker, you want to experiment and try something new, you have to leave the DOC/DOCG system and sell your wine as a Vino da Tavola or as a Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) wine. And this is what a number of Tuscan wine producers did.

By the 1970s, the market for Chianti wines was suffering and the wines were widely perceived to be lacking quality. Chianti was typically associated with basic Chianti sold in a squat bottle enclosed in a straw basket, called a fiasco. In response, a group of ambitious producers began to experiment. Some of these producers wanted to make Chiantis that contained more Sangiovese than allowed. Others wanted less Sangiovese and experiment with blending French grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Many did not want to be required to blend in any white grape varieties. Thus, the late twentieth century saw a flurry of creativity and innovation in the Chianti zones as producers experimented with new grape varieties and introduced modern wine-making techniques such as the use of new oak barrels. These wines became known as Super Tuscans, had to be classified as a Vino da Tavola or as IGT wine, while the prices and wine ratings of Super Tuscans would often eclipse those of the DOCG Chiantis.

See more:
Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy

Agricola Querciabella Portfolio

Agricola Querciabella produces four wines from its vineyards located in the  Chianti Classico zone: Batàr, a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay;  Camartina, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese; Palafreno,  a monovarietal Merlot; and Querciabella, a Chianti Classico DOCG  made of 100% Sangiovese. From the vineyards in coastal Maremma, Querciabella produces  Mongrana, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Pictures: Giorgio Fragiacomo and his Querciabella Wines

Camartina—the flagship of Querciabella—was Castiglioni’s first contribution to the Super-Tuscan movement. Camartina continues to be a defining example of the Super-Tuscan genre. While Sangiovese was the predominant varietal for the greater part of Camartina’s early career, the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has increased gradually over the years, with recent vintages favoring Cabernet.

Batàr is Querciabella’s high-level Tuscan white, inspired by the white grand cru wines of the Bourgogne. Initially, Batàr was a Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio blend. Today, it is a 50/50 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay blend.  Its stylistic orientation altered with the 1998 vintage, when the use of new oak was reduced, bringing Batàr within much closer range of its Burgundian archetype.

The portfolio’s penultimate wine, Palafreno, is monovarietal Merlot, debuting with the 2000 vintage. Its vinification regimen entails a fairly lengthy maceration period of 18 days and aging in 100 percent French oak (60% new and 40% first passage) for approximately 18 months.

The Wines we Tasted

Querciabella Mongrana Maremma Toscana IGT 2009

Sangiovese (50%); Merlot (25%);  Cabernet Sauvignon (25%).
Biodynamic (since first planting, 1997).
130,000 bottles

Bright red fruit and cherry give the wine a lively, cheerful personality and the wine's structure is perfectly balanced and smooth.  Market $31

Querciabella Camartina Toscana IGT 2008

Cabernet Sauvignon (70%); Sangiovese (30%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
15,000 bottles
First vintage: 1981.   Camartina is made and released only if the vintage
 reaches a very high quality level. Camartina was not  produced in 1989, 1992, 1998 and 2002.

Dark fruit, spices, leather and tobacco are some of the aromas and flavors that take shape in the glass. Mineral notes appear later to frame the long, vibrant finish.  Market $165

Pictures: Charlos pouring Querciabella Camartina Toscana IGT 2008

Querciabella Chianti Classico Chianti Classico DOCG 2008

Sangiovese (95%); Cabernet Sauvignon (5%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
100,000 bottles
First vintage: 1974

Beautifully delineated with a crystalline finish, this Chianti Classico is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep red-ruby. Balsamic black plum, sweet milk chocolate and coffee liquor aromas on the captivating, mineral-accented nose.  Market $43

Querciabella Batàr Toscana IGT 2009

Chardonnay (50%); Pinot Blanc (50%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
5,000 bottles
First vintage: 1988

Picture: Giorgio Fragiacomo pouring Querciabella Batàr IGT 2008

Opens with a beautifully intense bouquet of vanilla bean, peach cobbler and citrus mousse. White almond and toasted spice make for rich accents on the long fresh finish.  Market $97

Giorgio Fragiacomo

Giorgio Fragiacomo is a wine adventurer who hails from North Eastern Italy but grew up in Australia. A combination that led to his acquiring the simultaneous passions for yachting, fine wine and fine art (in which he has a degree from the University of Sydney) from a tender age.

After spending too long in the wrong career, he has now corrected his course and has been navigating the treacherous but exciting waters of the fine wine world for over a decade. Giorgio effortlessly earned his WSET Diploma with top marks, and is a qualified professional sommelier. He has worked in wine journalism as well as sales and marketing for leading wineries of the Piemonte, Veneto and Toscana. He currently steers the export sales of Querciabella.

Open Kitchen

Open Kitchen is owned by Hue-Chan and John Karels. "Our Mission" Hue-Chan says "is to create a unique culinary gathering space that celebrates the kitchen and the table as centers of pleasure and community. Open Kitchen is…

A full-service bistro that honors the farm-to-table spirit with seasonally, ingredient-driven menu of handmade, comfort food, using fresh, local and sustainable products as much as possible.

Picture: Giorgio Fragiacomo, Hue-Chan Karels and Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey

An intimate, fully-equipped, commercial kitchen facility and dining space offering custom-designed, interactive, and engaging private events for business and social gatherings, life celebrations, and chef-instructed, design-your-own cooking classes.

A gourmet market and wine boutique that reflects our philosophy that there is a magical relationship between wines, foods, and human connections. An evolving concept that includes Open Kitchen’s newly launched Wine Club featuring weekly wine tastings, seasonal wine dinners, wine reward program, and wine shop with gourmet snacks and nibbles.

Amid the noise and haste of modern living, Open Kitchen aspirse to provide guests with a culinary retreat for gracious living…a place to relax, unwind and share in the joy of food, wine, and community."

Pictures: Open Kitchen

As its name suggests, the space is pretty much open, with the meal preparation going on in front of your eyes, especially if you snag a counter seat.

The decor of Open Kitchen is modern. When you enter the place, you see the "open kitchen" with the Chef and his team at work. The kitchen is surrounded by a large wooden bar. You have the option to sit at the bar, the dining bistro area, which includes pub style butcher block tables or the fully covered patio.

See more:
A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA
Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA

Special Taste of Tuscany Menu

Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey prepared Tuscan food to go with the wines:

Fava Bean Crostini with Fresh Mint & Pecorino Shavings (V)

Chicken Liver Crostini

Grilled Lamb Meatballs with Shaved Fennel, Lemon Juice & Cold-Pressed Olive Oil

Pappardelle with Porcini Ragù (V)

Bistecca alla Fiorentina with Arugula & Shaved Parmesan (GF)

Bruschetta Prosciutto with Marinated Artichokes, Arugula & Shaved Parmesan

Spring Lemon Risotto with Asparagus & Peas (V, GF)

Panzanella (V)

Zabaglione with Vin Santo & Spring Berries

Chocolate Amaretto Tartlette

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Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Chef Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore, and Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce, Black Ankle Vineyards, at Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland

In connection with the 5th annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore in Maryland, USA (May 14, 2013), about 40 wine bloggers, columnists and writers toured wine country Maryland. One of the highlights of the pre-conference trip was the second stop at Black Ankle Vineyards. We were visiting Black Ankle Vineyards to both taste wine and to eat lunch catered by the Woodberry Kitchen of Baltimore, a restaurant devoted to farm-to-table cooking.

See also:
At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA 
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Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off - Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Maryland, USA

Black Ankle Vineyards

Black Ankle sets the new standard for what is going on in Maryland wine. Black Ankle has won numerous awards for their wines, including recent Maryland Governor’s Cup Awards.

Picture: Black Ankle Vineyards

Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce (both former management consultants) planted their first vines in 2003 after a lengthy search looking for farms with the worst soil. They succeeded, buying a 142-acre farm on Black Ankle Road in the rolling hills of Carroll County near Mt. Airy.

Ed and Sarah explained that the meager 1 1/2 feet of soil is 60 percent rock with a solid layer of rock below. Although this soil environment would be a nightmare for a farmer planting traditional agricultural crops, it proved perfect for their vision of a world-class vineyard growing vinifera grapes.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce, Black Ankle Vineyards

Currently, Black Ankle has 42 producing acres. Since Ed and Sarah purchased the property, they have made and applied compost in place of chemical fertilizers and they have never used herbicides of any kind. “Although we are not yet able to farm 100% organically, we are optimistic that with more research and ingenuity we will get there before too long,” say Ed and Sarah. “We have also made the decision to farm with the principles of Biodynamics. Black Ankle’s barrel room holds 300 French oak barrels. It is constructed with hay-bale walls coated with a plaster made from the farm’s earth and wood harvested from their acreage.

The business has been a bit of a juggling act for Ed and Sarah, who have kept their house in Silver Spring and, except at harvest time, alternate days at Black Ankle with working from home. They have five children, one in college and four at home.

Woodberry Kitchen

I have yet to visit Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore. Let me quote Huffington Post: “Nestled in a long-closed mill in Baltimore's Hampden neighborhood Woodberry Kitchen is a bastion of local and organic cooking.

Pictures: Owner and Chef Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore, and his team at Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland

Since opening in fall 2007, the place has won acclaim for dishes by chef and owner Spike Gjerde. The Washington Post's Tom Sietsema enthusiastically endorsed it, writing "One part Fannie Farmer, one part Alice Waters, Woodberry Kitchen is all heart. Go, Baltimore!" In Washingtonian magazine's list of the 100 best restaurants in the region for 2012, Woodberry Kitchen is the only Baltimore spot profiled.

Here, the wait staff is equipped with answers to a multitude of questions: Where is the meat from? How is it prepared? Is this fish wild or farm-raised? Is this sour cream homemade? (The answer to that last one is yes.)”

Chef Spike Gjerde told us: “Woodberry Kitchen relies on longstanding relationships with the growers of the Chesapeake to provide the ingredients that nourish and delight our guests. At our table, you join us in supporting sustainable agriculture that respects the abundance and traditions of the region while helping to ensure its future.”

The Lunch

We had lunch in the Black Ankle tasting room. Completed in 2007, the tasting room—built to reflect the owner’s belief in sustainability—was constructed from the farm’s wood, straw, soil, rain and sunshine, and from as many locally green materials as possible.

The Food

Seasonal Tartines

Grilled Chesapeake Oysters - Spring onion-horseradish verjus, fish pepper butter

Next Step Organic Wheat Berry Salad - Yogurt, radishes, pea shoots, pecans

Whole Maryland Suffolk Lamb - Grilled chops over grapevines, confit belly, fresh sausage, scallions and potatoes with herbs

Beiler’s Heritage Acres Cornflour Cake - Grape preserves, buttermilk sherbet

The Wines

2012 Black Ankle Vineyards, Gruener Veltliner – (Barrel Sample)

We were greeted by a glass of a excellent 2012 Gruener Veltliner that complemented seasonal tartines.

Hogsheadwine: “The nose revealed white fruit then some weight yellow fruit aromas.  In the mouth the floral fruit had both good acidity and mouthfeel.  There were flavors of honeysuckle in this wine with good length and round aftertaste. Nice.”

2011 Black Ankle Vineyards, Bedlam

With grilled Chesapeake oysters we sipped the floral 2011 Bedlam, a blend of Chardonnay, Albarino, Muscat, Viognier and Gruener Veltliner.

Hogsheadwine: “There was a fresh, bright nose with herbs and the slight texture of white fruit.  In the mouth the flavors were of drier white fruit which was tart and mixed with acidity that made my tongue salivate on the sides.  There was a yeasty note in the middle.”

2010 Black Ankle Vineyards, Rollings Hills

This wine is a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, 8% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot which was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels. Alcohol 13.6%.

Hogsheadwine: “The nose was of light red berries.  In the mouth there were berry flavors and a hint of something bright.  The flavors had density with acidity at the back of the mouth.  There were some grapey tannins along with fine-grained tannins in the structure.  There was a cool finish.”

2010 Black Ankle Vineyards, Leaf Stone Syrah

This wine was aged for 18 months in 65% new French oak. Alcohol 14.6%.

Hogsheadwine: “The beautiful nose had depth with floral fruit that smelled proper and was evocative of the Northern Rhone.  The flavors were young and tight but still enjoyable.  There was some grainy texture to the fruit and a creamy feel to the blue, grapey, and red flavors.  There was a touch of lipstick in the finish.  The acidity was well-integrated along with a deft touch of ripe oak tannins.  Nice.”

NV Black Ankle Vineyards, Terra Dulce II

A fortified wine, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petite Verdot, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Chardonnay, Albarino, Gruener Veltliner, and Muscat.

Hogsheadwine: “The color was a tawny garnet.  There was tangy red fruit in this fortified wine.  Herbs and acidity came out at first with the red fruit.  Then tea, tobacco, and more tobacco.  It was a little spirity at this point and could use some age for integration.”

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Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Henri Lurton at CityZen in Washington DC

Henri Lurton of Château Brane-Cantenac was in town (Washington DC) for 24 hours and invited a small group of wine writers/bloggers/officials to have dinner with him at CityZen: Karen Taylor (France Magazine), Michael Besche (Commanderie de Bordeaux), and Lou Marmon (GrapeLines), Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead) and myself.

See also Aaron Nix-Gomez for his posting on the evening: “Quantity being sacrificed to quality”: A Dinner with Henri Lurton of Château Brane-Cantenac

Henri Lurton and the Lurton Family

Château Brane-Cantenac is a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux. In 1922, it was acquired by the Lurton family. In 1992, control passed to the current owner Henri Lurton.

The Lurtons are one of Bordeaux's great wine dynasties. With more than 1,000 hectares in the region, they are collectively Bordeaux's largest holder of wine-producing land. The family members own more than 20 châteaux and manage several well-known properties. They are also active in the New World and the South of France.

Pictures: Henri Lurton

The Lurton family is not some centuries-old French aristocratic dynasty. They are new-comers. It all began in the 1920s with Léonce Récapet, who was a prosperous distiller and vineyard owner in the Entre Deux Mers region. His daughter married François Lurton. Their 4 children Andre, Dominique, Lucien and Simone took wine making seriously and between them began to build an empire. Lucien and André, in particular, acquired châteaux that were in a bad shape and brought them back on track. André is still running his business, while Lucien has handed over the 11 estates that he had gradually acquired to his 10 children, including Château Brane-Cantenac to Henri Lurton.

See also:
Château Brane-Cantenac, Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Margaux – A Profile, France
Henri Lurton and his Chateau Brane Cantenac Wines
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites
An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

Château Brane Cantenac

Originally known as Chateau Gorce, Château Brane Cantenac was one of most venerated Left Bank estates in the 1700s and 1800s. During the Gorce family’s 100-year tenure, the wines fetched prices similar to those for Chateau Brane Mouton – the precursor to Mouton Rothschild.

Château Brane Mouton owner Baron Hector de Brane sold Brane Mouton in 1833 to purchase Château Gorce and renamed it Château Brane Cantenac. In 1920, the Société des Grands Crus de France purchased Château Brane Cantenac and 5 years later, M. Récapet and his son-in-law, François Lurton, took over Château Margaux along with Château Brane Cantenac.  Lucien Lurton inherited Château Brane-Cantenac in 1956. He passed it on to Henri Lurton in 1992.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller, ombiasy wine tours, with Henri Lurton at In the Cellar with Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac

See more: "An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France". This was part of a trip organized by ombiasy wine tours and led by Annette Schiller. See more: "Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France". For the forthcoming wine tour to Bordeaux, which again will include a visit of  Château Brane-Cantenac, see: "Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013"

Château Brane-Cantenac’s vineyard totals 94 hectares. The grape varieties are 62.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 0.5 Carmenère.

Château Brane Cantenac makes 4 wines (36.000 cases in total): The Grand Vin, the second wine Baron de Brane, an additional label named Château Notton using grapes from the Notton vineyard, a plot acquired from Château d'Angludet, and a generic Margaux wine.

Winemaking at Château Brane Cantenac

During the dinner, we talked a bit about vineyard management, vinification and aging of the Château Brane Cantenac wines.

In terms of vineyard management at Château Brane-Cantenac, important aspects include: alternating between traditional working of the soil and top soil ploughing, good canopy management, which helps to keep yields low, de-leafing at setting and three weeks before the harvest, as well as crop thinning.

Pictures: At the dinner table with Henri Lurton

Henri Lurton: “For full ripening, it is essential to do the phenolic and other tests before harvest but it is also important to actually taste the grapes to decide if they are fully ripe. My father taught me this process years ago before many people in Bordeaux made this a routine. Now, I can pretty much taste grapes from different parts of the vineyard and tell if it is fully ripe.”

In terms of grape varieties: “Like in the rest of Medoc, we rely on Cabernet Sauvignon. We are aiming at increasing the share of Cabernet Sauvignon to 70%. We are experimenting with Carmenére in a half hectare of plot, so we use about 0.5% in the blend.”

Starting with the 2010 vintage, Brane Cantenac began to use the Vistalys Optical Sorting Machine. Brane Cantenac also began employing the Air Tec Wine System, which is aimed at preventing crushing of the grapes and premature oxidation of the fruit.

Henri explained that the optical sorting line analyzes berries in real-time sorting the good from the bad using air jets based on programmable criteria. The optical sorter not only shortens the sorting time but improves the quality of the fruit in both bad and good vintages.  As an example, in the 2010 vintage the destemmer let some Merlot berries with green stems through but the optical sorter was able to remove them.  It helped moved things along by sorting through the large numbers of grapes in the 2011 vintage.  It would have been helpful in the 1999 vintage when there were green berries in the center of some clusters which made it through.  The optical sorter cannot eliminate the necessity of field sorting for it is important to leave any botrytis affected fruit in the vineyard.

Pictures: At CityZen

The fruit is fermented in a mixture of wooden, concrete, and stainless steel vats.  Typically, the Cabernet Sauvignon is fermented in wood and concrete, the Cabernet Franc in wood, and the young vines in stainless steel.  Henri Lurton employs vats of various sizes.  These he can match to parcel sizes as well as to separate very small sections of a vineyard which have unique soil characteristics.  These he marks with flags.  With such an array of vats he can aim to maximize the balance of each vat.

The wine is aged in an average of 60% new, French oak for 18 months. After 18 months in barrels, the wine is racked into oak vats for fining with fresh egg whites.

Chef Eric Ziebold, Sommelier Andrew Myers and CityZen

CityZen is one of the best restaurants in town. The Washingtonian: “Some chefs can't resist seeing themselves in a magazine or on TV and are content to be faces for their restaurants instead of constant presences in the kitchen. Eric Ziebold, the chef at this sleekly plush dining room, isn't one of those publicity seekers. Every night the quietly intense Ziebold, who came up at California's French Laundry, is at work in the open kitchen. His obsession with detail means plates are gorgeous, and his creative drive means the menu changes every few months and rarely repeats; the only constant is the wooden box of Parker House rolls that arrives with main courses. Service is nearly always perfect--when you get up from the table, the hostess will likely be holding your coat.”

Pictures: Chef  Eric Ziebold, Henri Lurton and Christian G.E. Schiller

Andrew Myers' sommelier career began at The Inn at Little Washington in 1997. He later returned to Washington to manage the wait staff and the wine department of Restaurant Nora. Five years later, he joined the team at CityZen. At 40 plus now, Andrew Myers remains obsessed with metal. He plays the drums in a Heavy Metal Group and is covered in tattoos that would make most head bangers proud. But that obsession is rivaled by his passion for wine.

Pictures: Sommelier Andrew Myers and Henri Lurton

Chef's Tasting Menu

For our dinner, we had the five-course tasting menu.  There was also an amuse-bouche upon settling down and a sorbet as well as chocolates to finish off the evening. Three-course menu: $75. Five-course tasting menu: $110. Three-course bar menu: $50.

SOFT BOILED PATH VALLEY HEN EGG
CityZen Scrapple and Darden Ham Emulsion

HAWAIIAN SWORDFISH EN PERSILLADE
Savoy Cabbage Ribbons, Braised Rhubarb, and Dijon Mustard Broth

BRAISED OAKLEIGH RANCH VEAL SHANK
English Pea Tapenade, Julienne Snow Peas, Pea Shoot Tempura and Paloise Aïoli

SLOW COOKED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB SADDLE
Spring Garlic Stuffed Crêpe, Red Wine and Rosemary Panade

A SELECTION OF ARTISANAL CHEESES FROM OUR TROLLEY

The Wines 

2012 Château Brane-Cantenac, Echantillon, Margaux

68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. Alcohol 13%.

Henri Lurton: The Merlot was excellent in the 2012 vintage.  Harvest was rushed for fear of dilution and botrytis but the later did not occur.  The Cabernet Franc was unusually late, it typically comes in between the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  As a result it was not included in the Grand Vin.  The Carmenere was not ripe enough so it was excluded as well.

Robert Parker: A beauty from Henri Lurton, the 2012 Brane Cantenac exhibits classic notes of spring flowers intermixed with black raspberries, black currants and damp forest floor. This medium-bodied, sweet, ripe, quintessentially elegant, medium-bodied Margaux is nicely concentrated as well as sexy. Enjoy it over the next 10-12 years. 90 to 92 points.

2008 Baron de Brane, Margaux

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 28

58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, which was aged for 12 months in 30% new French oak. Second vin.

Notes of pepper and strawberries on the nose, medium bodied wine, good structure, black fruits with roasted coffee on the palate, nice finish.

2010 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 93

Blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc.  Alcohol 13.5%.
Flower, black raspberry, and earth notes on the nose, silky tannins on the palate, ending with long, ripe, dark berry aromas.

2006 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

Wine Searcher Average Price: 70

Blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc which was aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak.

Notes of spices, pepper and sandalwood on the nose, a full bodied wine, good structure, soft, round, creamy on the palate, with cassis and blackcurrant, has a well balanced character, lingering finish.

2005 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

Blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc which was aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak.

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 107

Aaron Nix-Gomez: The nose was lovely with perfume and youthful aromas.  In the mouth the wine was finely textured with some structure evident in the middle.  The cool acidity caused salivation at the end followed by grip in the back of the throat.  It showed a good concentration of flavors.

2000 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

55% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Cabernet Franc which was aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak.

Wine-searcher average price: US$ 144

Lots of tobacco, truffle, cassis and earthy scents on the nose, good structure, an elegant wine with well integrated tannins and a sweet cherry and cassis filled finish.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Château Brane-Cantenac, Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Margaux – A Profile, France

Henri Lurton and his Chateau Brane Cantenac Wines

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

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