Lunch with Raphael Dornier, Dornier Estate, in Stellenbosch, South Africa

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Raphael Dornier having Lunch at the Bodega Restaurant

I first met Raphael in the virtual world, on the Facebook Page of German wine journalist Mario Scheuermann, discussing the pros and cons of the 2010 Soccer World Cup for the South African economy. We agreed that next time I would come to South Africa, we would continue the discussion over lunch at his restaurant Bodega in Stellenbosch. When we had lunch at the Dornier Wine Estate earlier this year, off Blaauklippen Road at the outskirts of Stellenbosch, we didn’t really talk about the Soccer World Cup, but about the delicious Dornier wines, the exquisite Bodega food and the people behind it.

The Dornier Estate

The first thing you see when you arrive from Stellenbosch is the extravagant winery. With its curved roof and the use of face brick and reflecting materials, the building blends creatively into the dramatic scenery of Stellenbosch Mountain, enhancing the beauty of its natural surroundings. Raphael Dornier says: “The style of the winery is a visual translation of our wines – elegant, clear yet complex and distinctly unique”.

The Dornier Estate is located on two estates, both with long traditions. The history of Keerweder goes back to 1694, when it was acquired by Jac van Dyk. The Homestead farm includes a historic Sir Herbert Baker homestead and one of the oldest wine cellars in the area. The Dornier family bought the first farm in 1995, planted most of the vineyards and opened the new cellar in 2003.

Picture: Dornier Winery

There are currently 70 hectares under vine. The varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Chenin Blanc. These seven varieties are the building blocks of three blends. In addition, Dornier has started to grow wine in the Swartland.

Bodega Restaurant

Raphael, my wife and I had lunch in the Bodega restaurant. While the winery building with its striking architectural beauty of the superb modern cellar reflects the passion for architecture of Raphael’s father, Christoph Dornier, the Bodega restaurant is Raphael’s baby. Housed in a carefully renovated 19th century Cape Dutch barn, this is a mellow spot for a languid lunch, conversation fuelled by wines, and unpretentious cooking. Grab a table on the terrace and linger over the views of the ultramodern wave-design winery against a stunning mountain backdrop.

Picture: The Bodega Restaurant housed in a 19th Century Cape Dutch Barn

Neil Norman is the Dornier Chef de Cuisine. I asked Neil who was his greatest cooking influence and why? “For inspiration in the kitchen, I would say Thomas Keller from the French Laundry in the Napa valley. For cutting edge flavours, definitely Neil Perry of Australia”.

Picture: Dornier Chef de Cuisine Neil Norman

Raphael, Christoph and Claude Dornier

Raphael Dornier is now the full time Managing Director at Dornier Wines. He was born in Munich in Germany and grew up in Switzerland where he received most of his school and university education. Raphael holds a PhD in Economics. He says: “In five years, I see Dornier as one of the most prominent brands of South African wines. With our small range of unique wines we will showcase the potential and character of our soils as well as our individual style. With the support of our dedicated team we will strive to improve from vintage to vintage based on our tradition of creativity, innovation and perfection.”

The Dornier Wines Estate was founded Christoph Dornier, Raphael’s father. Christoph was born in 1938 as the youngest child of Claude Dornier, the German aviation pioneer. He passed away in 2008. Art had been his vocation from the early days. After art schools in Switzerland and Germany, he had developed his trademark style made of symbols, riddles and bright colors. In the early 1990’s he became one of the first foreign investors in post apartheid South Africa.

Everyone in Germany and everyone in the world interested in aviation know Claude Dornier, Raphael’s grandfather, who was born in Kempten, Germany, in 1884. Claude is known as the aviation pioneer, who replaced wood and paper with metal in the design and construction of early aircraft. Unable to persuade Graf Zeppelin officials to diversify into airplanes, he formed his own company with his brother and enjoyed immediate success with some of the world's earliest, large, all metal aircraft. Notably, Dornier's DO-X was the world's largest passenger plane at its time, which in the face of widespread skepticism concerning its practicality flew from Germany to New York in 1931.

JC Steyn

JC Steyn heads the Dornier wine cellar. He graduated from Stellenbosch University and took over Dornier Wines 5 years ago, after having gained experience of the full spectrum of viticulture and winemaking as right-hand man to charismatic winemaker of Cape Town’s Signal Hill Winery, Jean Vincent Ridon.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Dornier Winemaker JC Steyn

What we Drank and Ate

We had a lovely lunch at the Bodega, which offers spectacular mountain views and delectable country fare paired with Dornier wines. We were lucky to be there while the restaurant was hosting its second annual asparagus festival. Neal Norman offered a mouthwatering menu, featuring white and green asparagus, freshly picked on Saxenburg farm. As main course, I had asparagus with Black Forest Ham, Raphael with Salmon. As a starter we shared Flammenkuchen with green and white asparagus, porcini and watercress. Delicious! As to the wines, we had two flights, a white one and a red one.

Picture: My Main Course - Asparagus with Black Forest Ham

Dornier has three ranges of wines. (1) The Cocoa Hill wines are the entry level wines, no wood. They offer lively fruit, uncompromised pleasure, and great value. The Cocoa Hill segment includes a Chenin Blanc, a Sauvignon Blanc, a Rosé and a Red Blend. Cocoa Hill wines are roughly in the US$ 12 range. (2) The dornier wines are the middle-level wines, all in the US$ range. They comprises single variety wines, no or only little wood. The aim is to express the unique concentrated varietal characteristics refined with soft, clean tannins and abundant freshness. The range includes a Chenin Blanc, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Merlot and a Pinotage. (3) The DONATUS wines comprises the two flagship red and white blends. They aim at achieving a combination of a distinctive local character with an. individual Dornier style. All wines are fermented and aged in separate batches and blended after a long ageing process. The Donatus wines are in the US$ 30 range.

First flight: 3 Chenin Blancs

Raphael Dornier explained that since their inception as a wine producer they have been making white wine with a Chenin Blanc focus. Each of the three ranges of Dornier wines includes a Chenin Blanc. ‘At Dornier Wines we believe that Chenin Blanc is by far the most attractive and versatile white wine varietal available in South Africa and we see it as integral in the future of white wine production on the farm” says winemaker JC Steyn.

2010 Cocoa Hill Chenin Blanc

Grapes were selected from vines aged between 19 – 52 years-old and located in several different Stellenbosch micro-climates. Wine was left on lees for two month to give it the desired fullness and texture. A pleasant, unwooded, straightforward wine, fresh and fruity. guava and kiwi notes on the nose, good structure, more tropical aromas on the palate, clean and crisp fruit aftertaste.

2010 dornier Chenin Blanc

The grapes were sourced from the Swartland. Fermented half in tank and half in fourth-fill barrels. Five months on the lees. The wine is rich and ripe, on the nose white pear, dried peaches and ripe apricot notes, good acidity, a silky mouth-feel.

2009 DONATUS White

The 2009 is a blend of Chenin Blanc (77%) and Semillon (23%). All batches spent eight months on lees in French oak barrels (300 litre barrels, 30% new). The wine combines the opulence and complexity of barrel-aged Chenin Blanc with the freshness of the Semillon, notes of ripe apple, citrus and roasted nuts on the nose, rounded, full palate, lots of minerality, a wine that could be put away for at least 10 years.

Second Flight: 3 Red Wines

2007 Cocoa Hill Red

Dornier’s red entry-level wine. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Franc. It combines its fruit driven layers of dark berry fruits, spice notes and nuances of roasted cocoa beans.

2007 dornier Pinotage

Both parents of this cultivar (Pinot noir and Cinsaut) are clearly present, the wine shows the elegance and poise of the Pinot Noir with its freshness and mild blackberry characteristics, from the Cinsaut it borrows the masculine flavors and upfront fruit attributes, a wine with a fine tannin structure.

2007 DONATUS Red

A blend of Cabernet Franc (70%) and Merlot (30%). Notes of spice, cassis, tobacco and hints of sweet fruit on the nose, firm tannin structure and flavors of red fruits on the palate, with a fresh, lingering finish, a wine with class and presence, worthy of extended cellaring,


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The World Class Wines of Alsace

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Colette Faller from Domaine Weinbach

Great Dry and Crisp White Wines

Alsace produces many good still and sparkling, red and white wines. But above all it is appreciated for its unoaked, dry and crisp white wines. The Alsatian are different from those made in the other parts of France: They are higher in acidity, sometimes really sour, but always a very pleasant experience to have them in the glass. And they go very well with Alsatian food, which is also unique in France. The famous choucroute you find only there in France. But of course, you find it also on the other side of the Rhine river in neighboring Germany, for example in the region where I come from, Frankfurt am Main.

Compared with Germany, which is also famous for its white wines, Alsace wines tend to be drier, more full-bodied, more concentrated and higher in alcohol. It is often said that the German white wines, in particular the Rieslings, tend to be sweet. But this is a misconception. 95% of German white wines are dry. The white wines with a noticeable remaining sweetness and a low level of alcohol – which are so popular in the US - have become a niche wine in Germany, largely produced for the export market. Overall, German, Austrian and Alsatian white wines are pretty similar, although they all have their own characteristics.

Trimbach, Weinbach, Leon Beyer

I spent a couple of days in early December 2010 in snow covered Alsace and had the honor of being received by Jean Trimbach (Maison Trimbach) in Ribeauville, Madame Colette Faller (Domaine Weinbach) in Kaysersberg and Yann Beyer (Maison Leon Beyer) in Eguisheim. All three of them are very well established wine estates, belonging to the elite of Alsace's winemakers. I will report separately about these three wine estates on Schiller Wine.

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Marc and Yann Beyer, Catherine Faller and Jean Trimbach

As to the food we ate in Alsace, it was in general very good; I would like to mention the Restaurant/Winstub L’Ami Fritz in Ottrott, where Chef/Owner Patrick Fritz offers delicious Alsatian meals in a very pleasant setting. And for the wine, I had the Edelzwicker “en carafe” of Domaine Fritz-Schmitt, produced by Patrick Fritz’s sister.

Region

Alsace sits in the northeast corner of France, sheltered by the Vosges mountains to the west, which block out the dreary maritime weather that plagues so much of the rest of northern France and hard against the German border to the east. It has arguably France’s most picturesque wine villages, with hundreds of years old, beautifully restored, half-timbered houses.

The vineyards reach from around Wissembourg in the north to Mulhouse, 70 miles south. Some 12 million cases are produced annually from 32,000 acres of vineyards (13.000 hectares). All 3 wineries I visited – and indeed all famous winemakers – are located south of Strasbourg.

History

Alsace is a fascinating amalgam of the German and French. The end of the 30 Years’ War in 1648 gave Alsace to France. In 1871, at the end of the Franco-Prussian War, Alsace was taken by Germany. After World War I, it was once more part of France — until 1940, when Germany reclaimed it. With the defeat of the Nazis in 1945, Alsace became French yet again — and so it has remained.

While the great powers ruling Alsace alternated between the Germans and the French, I see more German elements in Alsace than French elements. For once, the German winemaking tradition is based on the concept of varietals whereas the French winemaking culture tends to believe in the concept of terroir. Alsatian wines are bottled under their varietal names, unlike virtually all other French wines.

Grape Varieties

Four grape varieties are considered to be the best:(i) Riesling – like in Germany, the most celebrated grape; (ii) Muscat – often used to produce sweet wines in France, the Alsace version is bone-dry; (iii) Pinot Gris and (iv) Gewurztraminer –Alsace's signature grape. Three other white grape varieties are also grown: (i) Sylvaner – A high-yielding grape, producing a refreshing wine, often used for blends, (ii) Pinot Blanc and (iii) Chardonnay – used only for sparkling wine. In addition, Alsace does have a little red wine made from the Burgundy grape, Pinot Noir. The Alsatian red wines tend to be quite lightweight, but can be delicious and interesting.

Picture: The Vineyards of Alsace in Kaysersberg (December 2010)

Appellations

Alsace produces wines under three different appellations: (i) Appellation d'Origine Contrôlées (AOCs) for ¾ of the white, rosé and red wines, (ii) Alsace Grand Cru AOC for white wines from certain classified vineyards and (iii) Crémant d'Alsace AOC for sparkling wines.

Edelzwicker

Edelzwicker is a traditional, blended wine of Alsace, typically sold in liter bottles. In the early parts of the 20th century, blending was the norm, and these blends were called "zwicker". Edelzwicker (noble-blend) is a "zwicker" made only from noble grapes. It is a fairly simple wine for day to day drinking, best in a wine brasserie to wash down a plate of chaucroute garni at lunch or dinner! But one should not forget that Edelzwicker is a basic table wine; none of the 3 world class estates I visited produce Edelzwicker.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Patrick Fritz, Chef/Owner of L'Ami Fritz in Otrott

Noble-sweet Wines

Alsace produces noble-sweet wines, but – I would say - does not have the same reputation as Germany or Austria for producing noble-sweet wines. There are two kinds. (i) Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) is used to indicate a wine produced from grapes that have benefitted from remaining on the vine for an extended period of time. Often this refers to sweet, dessert style wines, but like in Germany the Spaetlese and Auslese wines, vendages tardives wines can be fermented until dry, yielding wines of special concentration and power. (ii) Sélection de Grains Nobles, on the other hand, does refer to noble-sweet wines. A selection of grapes affected with botrytis (noble rot), these are wines that express their innate character in a luscious, unctuous, perfumed style that is the same as the German Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Picture: Copy of the Statue of Liberty in Colmar, where Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi was borne on August 2, 1834, a French sculptor who is remembered mainly for designing the Statue of Liberty.

Cremant d’Alsace

Alsace also produces a sparkling wine similar to champagne, the Cremant d’Alsace. Crémant d’Alsace is made using the traditional method (bottle fermentation), mostly from Pinot Blanc grapes. Rosé Crémant d'Alsace is made exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes. Crémant d'Alsace is a significant part of the wine production in Alsace, with 18% of the region's vineyards used for this purpose.


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Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

Pictures (from left to right): Ingo Swoboda, John Dade Thieriot (Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco), Jancis Robinson, Wilhelm Weil

The 1st International Riesling Symposium

Eight very interesting lectures, four outstanding wine tastings - one in the morning and one in the afternoon of each day - and a walking wine dinner provided for two fascinating and highly entertaining days around Riesling at the 1st International Riesling Symposium that took place a couple of days ago at Schloss Rheinhartshausen in the Rheingau in Germany. The symposium was attended by about 150 people, including such luminaries as Jancis Robinson from the UK, Willi Bruendlmayer from Austria, Helmut Doennhoff from the Nahe, Ernst Loosen from the Mosel and Colette Faller from Domaine Weinbach in Alsace, and many others. I have provided my impressions about the symposium here.

This posting focuses on one (of the four) major tastings, in which we tasted 21 aged Rieslings from Austria, France and Germany.

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22 .400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Nevertheless, Australia was a bit underrepresented at the 1st International Riesling Symposium. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Wine Tasting: Aging Potential of Riesling

Jancis Robinson, Financial Times, led a fascinating tasting of 21 aged Rieslings. It was a very lively tasting with many of the winemakers present and also commenting on their wines. Jancis was assisted by John Dade Thieriet (Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco. I was able to pick up some of the comments of Jancis and those winemakers who commented on their wines.

1970 Heiligenstein, Riesling, Schloss Gobelsburg, Austria

JR: Very interesting, very delicate, filigran, fully mature, the wine gets us on the way straight away, light bodied, bone dry, a souvenir, sliding into old age, I like the breadth of the wine, reminder of how long Rieslings can age.

1990 Cuvee Frederic Emile, Riesling, Domaine Trimbach, France

JR: Only Alsatian wine of the tasting, absolutely lovely, very brisk, wonderful structure, citrus nose, could happily go on for another 10 years.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in France

1994 Zoebinger Heiligenstein, Riesling Alte Reben – Magnum, Weingut Bruendlmayer, Austria

JR: Magnum bottle, looks fantastic, Willi Bruendlmayer feels that many wines are consumed to early or too late - this one is right on time, bone dry with great balance, not lush, Riesling in its prime.

1995, Siegerrieder, Riesling Smaragd, Weingut Franz Hirtzberger, Austria

JR: Another great Austrian wine, quite different from the previous wine, 15% botrytised grapes, quite powerful, as near as Riesling gets to a powerhouse: right up at the limit, in its prime now.

1997, Ungeheheuer G.C., Riesling Trocken, Weingut Dr. Buerklin-Wolf, Germany

JR: Strong grapefruit notes on the nose, a well polished wine, note of wild flowers which I like, made for a long life, fine finish.

2001, Kirchenstueck Forst, Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewaechs, Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl, Germany

JR: Much more developed than the previous wine, full, very slight oiliness on the finish, quite tight on the end.

2001, Schuett, Riesling Smaragd, Weingut Emmerich Knoll, Austria

JR: Another 2001 - 2001 is only now opening up, spicy nose, raciness on the palate, showing well now, very ripe, great fun to drink.

2002, Pechstein, Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewaechs, Weingut Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Germany

JR: Back to the Pfalz, floral notes, the wine grabs my attention, very flirtatious on the nose, very impressive on the finish.

2000, Kellerberg, Riesling Smaragd, Weingut F.X.Pichler, Austria

JR: The wine is very tight on the nose, long distance runner, an elephant on a tight rope, big wine, slight note of bitterness, quinine (tonic water) on the finish as well as peach notes, pretty much the moment to drink it.

2003, Klaus, Riesling Smaragd, Weingut Prager, Austria

JR: 2003 was a difficult vintage, the wine has not lost its freshness, wine is still very fit.

2005, Erbach Steinmorgen, Riesling Erstes Gewaechs, Weingut Jakob Jung, Germany

JR: Notes of a wet bull and a bunch of flowers on the nose, the wine tastes relatively sweet, interesting to see if the wine develops a bit more complexity over the coming years.

1969, Erbacher Bruehl, Riesling Cabinet, Schloss Reinhartshausen, Germany

JR: An old wine, shows very well that Riesling can last, no shortage of extract, exotic taste, a wine you do not want to pair with food, but drink by itself, still alive, but in the retirement home, gives us lots of pleasure.

1964, Schloss Johannisberg, Riesling Gruenlack Spaetlese, Schloss Johannisberg, Germany

JR: Despite its age, very much alive and well, a senior citizen, who is still going to keep fit classes, amazing wine, heavy.

1959, Steinberger, Riesling Spaetlese, Hessische Staatsweingueter Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Dieter Greiner(Managing Director): I selected the wine because it shows very well the Steinberger terroir with stony soils, is a good example of the Steinberger.

Picture: Dieter Greiner

JR: Really a treat for us, great vintage and great vineyard, magnificent, so much density, a bit of mustiness, stunning on the palate, builds up towards the end, majestic finish.

1990, Scharzhofberger, Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Egon Mueller-Scharzhof, Germany

Egon Mueller: I chose the wine because it is good example of a classic Kabinett wine, which is now 20 years old, presents itsself very well.

Picture: Egon Mueller

JR: Another treat from the Mosel, amazingly -not yet ready to drink, single most ascertive wine so far, , not yet middle age, very youthful, very dense, massive finish.

1990 Uerziger Wuerzgarten, Riesling Auslese, Weingut Dr. Loosen, Germany

Ernst Loosen: I picked this wine because it is a classic Auslese from the Mosel, a Mosel wine at its best, how Mosel should be.

Picture: Ernst Loosen

JR: More developed than the previous wine, a bit of lime juice on the palate, is in its prime, a middle Mosel classic.

1998, Leiwener Laurentiuslay, Riesling Spaetlese, Weingut St. Urbans-Hof, Germany

Nik Weis (Owner): I picked this wine because Mosel is at its best at the Spaetlese level, also, 1998 showed Mosel wines from their best side.

Picture: Nik Weis

JR: Lovely wine, is slim but not skinny, very elegant, very appetizing, great stuff.

1975, Johannisberger Klaus, Riesling Auslese, Weingut Prinz von Hessen, Germany

JR: An amazing wine, presumably gets drier every year, very nice, very ripe, very opulent wine, it has evolved beautifully, lovely finish.

1994, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Auslese, Weingut Joh. Jos. Pruem, Germany

Katharina Pruem: This wine is a very good food partner, I would serve it with venison or seafood, we only do spontaneous fermentation.

Picture: Katharina Pruem

JR: A big treat, wonderful wine, very opulent opening , passion fruit notes, extremely well balanced, beautiful wine, so youthful, is a baby, sweetness is there, but almost hidden.

1998, Dorsheim Pittermaennchen, Riesling Auslese, Schlossgut Diel, Germany

Armin Diel: Food pairing? This is French idea. This wine does not need nor want food, it should be consumed on its own.

Picture: Armin Diel

JR: A lovely wine, big bouquet of flowers on the nose, with a mineral undertone, can go for another 12 years, well balanced.

1999, Monzinger Halenberg, Riesling Auslese, Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber, Germany

JR: 20 % botrytised grapes, nose very tight, less developed than the previous wine, polished, lots of layers, I got a little bit of chew on the finish, has gotten this great Schoenleber balance, filigran, great potential.

2001, Hattenheim Schuetzenhaus, Riesling Beerenauslese, Wein- und Sektgut Barth, Germany

Norbert Barth: 192 Oechsle, an extremely dense wine, beautiful, can go on for many years.

Picture: Norbert Barth

JR: The only Beerenauslese of the tasting - and a very intense Beerenauslese, very nice sweetness/acidity balance, has enormous aging potential, great stuff.

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Christian G.E. Schiller Leads Tasting of US-American Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller in Hochheim, Germany, Presenting American Wines from the East and West Coast to the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim

The Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim asked me to lead them through a tasting of US-American Wines. I bought some of the wines from importers of US-American wines in Germany, bought some of the wines myself in the Washington DC area and brought them over to Germany and was provided with the Dr. Frank dry Riesling directly from the Wine Estate in the Finger Lakes region in New York State.

Hochheim

Hochheim is at the eastern edge of the Rheingau, well know around the world for its Riesling wines. Moving from Hochheim to the west, the fairly flat, dimpled landscape evolves into progressively steep slopes. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Annette Schiller and Gunter Kuenstler, Hochheim's Top Winemaker

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines in Hochheim to take back to his estate in Virginia.

The best winemaker in Hochheim now is with any doubt Weingut Kuenstler. Its founder, Franz Kuenstler, who died earlier this year, was a founding member of the Weinfrundeskreis Hochheim. Weingut Kuenstler is now being owned and run by Gunter Kuenstler.

What we Tasted
Here are the wines we tasted.

Sparkling Wine

2005 Domaine Carneros Taittinger Sparkling Brut, Napa Valley, California



White Wine

2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Beringer, 13,5 %, Napa Valley, California
2007 Chardonnay, Woelffer Estate, 12,5 %, Long Island, New York State
2008 Chardonnay, Walter Schug, 14 %, Carneros, California
2008 Riesling , Dr. Konstantin Frank, 12 %, Finger Lakes, New York State
2008 Riesling Eroica, Dr. Loosen and Chateau St. Michelle, 11.5%, Washington State



Red Wine

2006 Norton, Horton Vineyards, 13 %, Virginia
2007 Merlot , Woelffer Estate, 13 %, Long Island, New York State
2007 Pinot Noir, Walter Schug, 13,5 %, Sonoma Coast, California
2006 Pinot Noir, Joseph Drouhin, 14,5 %, Oregon
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Robert Mondavi Private Selection, 13,5 %, California
1990 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spottswoode, 13,4 %, Napa Valley, Cailfornia
2006 Zinfandel, Grgich Hills, Grgich Vineyards, 14,9 %, Napa Valley, California
2008 Cabernet Franc , Jefferson Vineyards , 13 %, Virginia





Wine Producer US

The US accounts for about 400.000 hectares of the world’s total vineyard area of about 7.000.000 hectares, in other words, 7% of the total. When you talk Europeans about American wine, they always mention three wine growing areas, California, Oregon and Washington State. True, there is wine made in Oregon and Washington State, and, in fact, in all other American States, but it is California, which accounts for 90% of America’s vineyard area. Washington State is small compared with California, with 4% of the total each, about the same vineyard area as New York State (with Long Island and the Finger Lakes being the main areas). Oregon is tiny in terms of wine making, at less than 1% of the United States’ total. Living in Viriginia, when I am in the US, and being a member of a Virginia wine meet-up group, I of course also had to present my home state. But Virginia is also tiny, wine accounting for under 1 % of the total.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Janine I., Hochheim's Reigning Wine Queen

Strong German Touch

Obviously, the tasting had a stong German touch. Beringer was founded by the German brothers Jakob and Friedrich Beringer. Walter Schug, one of the fathers of California Pinot Noir, was born in Assmannshausen in the Rheingau and moved to California with his German wife Gertrude after having received his formal training as winemaker at the Geisenheim wine college and after having worked for several years as winemaker in Germany. Woelffer Estate on Long Island was founded by the German Christian Woelffer; in the vineyard and the cellar, the German Roman Roth is the driving force. He even produces in New York State a wine that would be called “Schiller Wine” (blend of white and red grapes) in his home region Wuerttemberg. Eroica is a joint venture of Chateau Ste. Michelle from Washington State and German star winemaker Ernst Loosen. Dr. Konstantin Frank immigrated from a German speaking part of the former Soviet Union into the US. His grandson Fred, who is currently in charge, studied winemaking in Germany and speaks perfectly German.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Holger Krimmel, President of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim

Stong American Component

There was of course also a stong Ameriican component. Norton is the only American grape variety that can produce high quality wines. Robert Mondavi is the father of the American wine revolution. Spottswoode is one of the leading American producers of organic wine. Mike Grgich is one of the winemakers, whose wine beat the French wines in the famous 1976 tasting in Paris. Finally, the last wine was made in the vineyards, where President Thomas Jefferson had unsuccessfully tried to grow wine several centuries ago.

Picture: Signpost in Hochheim for President Jefferson's Visit in Hochheim

For those, who can read German, I had prepared a power point presentation, which can be obtained from me upon request; just send me an e-mail: cgeschiller@gmail.com



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3. German Twitter Wine Awards – German Pinot Noir Below Euro 20

Pictures: Dirk Wuertz and the TWA Jury

3. Twitter Wine Awards in Germany

The 3. German Twitter Wine Awards (TWA) took place at the Restaurant Rebstock in Oberbergen in the Kaiserstuhl area in Germany on November 27, 2010. The Rebstock is the second restaurant of Fritz Keller - star winemaker, famous wine retailer and owner of the well-known Schwarzer Adler, just across the road of the Rebstock. The participants of the event had to select the best wine of the almost 100 submitted Pinot Noir wines - in the below Euro 20 (= US$ 28) price range.

For the first time, the contest was held under the auspices of the German Wine Institute (DWI). The idea for the TWA grew out of the German Twitter Wine Tastings that take place once a month, initiated by Dirk Wuertz. Dirk Wuertz is a well known German winemaker, who exports most of his production to the US and the Nordic countries; recently, his back-in-box Riesling (bone dry) has become available at Whole Foods in the US. He is also a web 2.0 guru. See here. Co-organizer was Partick Johner, Weingut Johner and Johner Estate. Patrick, with his father Karl-Heinz, owns and runs two wine estates, one in the Kaiserstuhl area and one in New Zealand. Patrick is another leader in the German wine web scene. See here.

German Red Wine Boom

German red wines are increasingly appearing in the international wine market. Of course, given its location, they tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, in the international scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this has changed. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world. The share of red wines in terms of production has increased from 10 percent in the 1980s to about 35 percent now in Germany.

Pinot Noir

In Germany, the Pinot Noir is called Spätburgunder. It is to red wine what the Riesling is to white wine: the cream of the crop. In the US, Pinot Noir shows great promise in Oregon and California. The reputation that gets Pinot Noir so much attention, however, is owed to the wines of the Bourgogne in France, where it has probably been cultivated since at least the 4th century (first documented, however, in the 14th century).

Pictures: The TWA Tasting - Dirk Wuertz, Frank R. Schultz (DWI), Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller in the picture below.

Regardless of where it’s grown, Pinot Noir is not typically a value wine. That is so because Pinot Noir is such a delicate grape that it is difficult and expensive to grow and make into the spectacular wine it can be. It is sensitive to climate and soil, Pinot Noir needs warmth (but not intense heat) to thrive and does well in chalky soils. As the German name implies, it ripens late (spät).

The Submitted Wines

Weingut Karl H. Johner, 2007 Spätburgunder vom Kaiserstuhl
Weingut Götz GbR, 2009 Spätburgunder trocken
Weingut Götz GbR, 2007 h3 Spätburgunder trocken
Weingut Klaus Runkel, 2008 Bechtheimer Spätburgunder
Weingut Jürgen von der Mark, Pinot Noir von der Mark - Village
Weingut Jakob & Jonas Kiefer, Blauer Spätburgunder Rotwein trocken
Weingut Jakob & Jonas Kiefer, Blauer Spätburgunder Rotwein feinherb
Weingut Braunewell, 2008 Spätburgunder KALKMERGEL trocken
Weingut Braunewell, 2008 TEUFELSPFAD Spätburgunder
Weingut Feitig-Richter, 2008 Spätburgunder Rotwein Qualitätswein trocken
Weingut Feitig-Richter, 2009 Spätburgunder Rotwein Spätlese trocken
Weingut Heinrich Vollmer, 2009 Ellerstadter Kirchenstück Spätburgunder Rotwein Auslese
Fischborn-Schenk, Biebelsheimer Kieselberg Spätburgunder
Nals Margreid, Pinot Nero “Mazzon” D.O.C.
Domaine Frédéric Mochel, Pinot Noir Frederic Mochel
Weingut Rainer Schlumberger, Pinot Noir "Eich"
Weingut Försterhof, Ahrweiler Rosenthal Spätburgunder Qualitätswein
Weingut Försterhof, Ahrweiler Rosenthal Spätburgunder Auslese trocken
Friedrich Kiefer KG Privatkellerei - Weingut, 2008 Eichstetter Herrenbuck Spätburgunder Rotwein QbA trocken
Friedrich Kiefer KG Privatkellerei - Weingut, 2009 Eichstetter Herrenbuck Spätburgunder Rotwein AUSLESE PRACHTSTÜCK

Picture: Patrick Johner and Dirk Wuertz

Friedrich Kiefer KG Privatkellerei - Weingut, 2007 Eichstetter Herrenbuck Spätburgunder Rotwein*** Gutsabfüllung QbA trocken
Zalwander, Spätburgunder
Weingut Villa Heynburg GmbH, Spätburgunder Rotwein Qualitätswein trocken
Weingut Villa Heynburg GmbH, Spätburgunder Rotwein "Réserve" Qualitätswein trocken
Winzerkeller Hex vom Dasenstein eG, Spätburgunder Rotwein Qualitätswein trocken -Barrique-Ausbau
Winzerkeller Hex vom Dasenstein eG, Spätburgunder Rotwein Qualitätswein trocken - Selection ALTE REBE
Winzerkeller Hex vom Dasenstein eG, Rotwein Qualitätswein -Selection ALTE REBE
Weingut Feitig-Richter, 2009 Spätburgunder Rotwein Kabinett trocken
Weingärtner Brackenheim eG, Spätburgunder QbA trocken
Shelter Winery, 2008 Spätburgunder
Shelter Winery, 2008 Pinot Noir seven-seven-seven
Weingut Steinmühle, Fam. May-Weissheimer, 2009 Spätburgunder trocken
Weingärtnergenossenschaft Dürrenzimmern-Stockheim eG, "Divinus" Spätburgunder QbA trocken -im Barrique gereift
Weingut Klaus Runkel, 2007 Spätburgunder
Weingut Wolfgang Kühn, 07er Klingenberger Schloßberg Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken
Weingut Wolfgang Kühn, 08er Klingenberger Schloßberg Spätburgunder "U" trocken Spätlese
Weingut Dr. Helmut Scholl, Pinot Noir 2008
Lauffener Weingärtner eG, Lauffener Katzenbeißer Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken Poet
Weingut Michael Wiesler, Spätburgunder
Weingut Michael Wiesler, Spätburgunder "Edition Wiesler"
Weingut Josef Walter, 2007 Spätburgunder "J" Centgrafenberg
Weingärtnergenossenschaft Mundelsheim eG, Rozenberg Spätburgunder QbA trocken im Eichenfass gereift

The Winners

1. Platz – 1. Place:

M Runkel, Weingut Jakob und Klaus Runkel, Bechtheimer Spätburgunder Trocken, 2008, Rheinhessen.

Weingut Runkel is a family-run winery in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with 10 hectares of vineyard land. The award winning wine is one of their top-of-the-line wines, the M Runkel series, all made by Runkel-junior, Matthias Runkel.

Weingut Jakob und Klaus Runkel
Petersgäßchen 2
67595 Bechtheim

Tel. 0 62 42 - 21 10
Fax 0 62 42 - 55 54
E-Mail: info@weingut-runkel.de
Internet: www.weingut-runkel.de

2. Platz – 2. Place:

Weingut Weishaar, Eichstetter Herrebuck, 2007, Baden and
Weingut Kiefer, Eichstetter Herrenbuck, 2007, Baden.

The special Twitter Wine Awards for best low price, good quality wines went to:

Lauffener Katzenbeisser POET, Lauffener Weingärtner (6,50 Euro) and
Klosterpfad, Weingut Stefan Meyer (6,30 Euro).

Citizen Jury, Tweet-Ups and Twitter Wine Tastings

Twitter wine tastings are becoming increasingly popular. Basically, your taste the wines at home, anywhere in the world (with decent internet) and communicate with fellow tasters by Twitter. The critical thing is to agree on a wine, a time and a #hashtag in advance, so that everyone can buy the wine in advance and then taste it at the agreed time, while tweeting and following the tweets of others. If the winemaker himself or somebody else more competent than the average consumer is among the participants, this adds value to the Twitter wine tasting. One step further is the same thing but with live streams in the net. Patrick Johner, for example, did this recently, with a Skype connection to his father in the vineyard in New Zealand and streamed live in the net.

Picture: Patrick Johner and Christian G.E. Schiller

Another thing are so-called wine Wine Tweet-Ups. This are Twitter wine tastings, where the participants meet in the same room for a walk-around tasting and communicate via Twitter. Typically, the tweets are shown on a large board in the meeting room. So you taste, tweet and read the tweets of others on the large Twitter wall or your own device. The Four Seasons Hotel Austin just organized a Twitter wine tasting cum Tweet-Up, in which I participated. You could join the crowd either at 6 pm Central Standard Time at a device near you with the hashtag #FSWine via Twitter, or directly attend the Tweet-Up at the Four Seasons Hotel. The featured wines were Dr. L Riesling, Paraiso Syrah and Chappellet Mountain Cuvee. Loosen Bros. VP Kirk Wille joined in the Twitterverse and you had a chance to fire questions at him.

The 3.German Twitter Wine Awards event was neither a Tweet-Up nor a Twitter wine tasting in the conventional sense. It was a Twitter event in the sense that most of the people there know each other via Twitter. As for me, for example, I knew almost all participants, but almost all of them through the virtual Twitter and Facebook world. Thus, the TWA event was part of the transformation process that is going on from the old system of wine criticism (the ivory tower critics) to the new system of wine citizen bloggers. The young generations like to share opinions and tasting notes with their peers on blogs, Facebook, Twitter, etc. The award winning wine of Weingut Runkel at the TWA was chosen by a citizen jury, composed of wine consumers, bloggers and wine makers present at the event. Anybody was invited to attend and participate. I had never heard of Weingut Runkel before the TWA. Now I know that they make outstanding wines.

The Participants

Here are some of the participants.

twitter.com/Ultes
twitter.com/Yuki_Keylin
Matthias Metze (twitter.com/MatthiasM)
Jochen Uebel (twitter.com/Weingut_Uebel)
Philipp Breiten¬feld (twitter.com/GazzettadelVino)
The Ritsch (twitter.com/ritsch
Patrick Johner (twitter.com/johner)
Andreas Kaul, DWI (twitter.com/kaul_mz)
Frank R Schulz, DWI (twitter.com/deutscheweine)
Stefan Schwytz (twitter.com/StefanSchwytz)
Richard Kerber
(me) Christian Schiller (twitter.com/Schillerwein)
Annette Schiller
Martin Schmidt
Gabi Wuertz
Dirk Würtz (twitter.com/Wuertz)

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