Henri Lurton and his Château Brane-Cantenac Wines

Picture: Henri Lurton and Christian G.E.Schiller

I had the pleasure of meeting Henri Lurton, owner of and winemaker at Chateau Brane-Cantenac, at MacArthur’s Wine and Beverages in Washington DC in April 2010.

Château Brane-Cantenac

Château Brane-Cantenac is a Deuxieme Grand Cru  Classe en 1855 winery in Margaux. In the early 20th century the vineyard lost much of its reputation. In 1922 it was acquired by the Lurton family. In 1992 control passed to Henri Lurton, whom I met.

Picture: Map of Bordeaux

Brane-Cantenac’s vineyard totals 94 hectares (230 acres). Production is 30,000 cases. The grape varieties cultivated are 62.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 0.5 Carmenère. Brane-Cantenac makes in addition to its Grand vin, the second wine Baron de Brane, an additional label named Château Notton using grapes from the Notton vineyard, a plot acquired from Château d'Angludet, and a generic Margaux wine with grapes sourced from young vineyards.

Henri Lurton and the Lurton Family

The Lurtons are one of Bordeaux's great wine dynasties. With some 3,000 acres in the region, they are collectively Bordeaux's largest holder of wine-producing land. The family members own more than 20 Châteaux and manage several well known properties. They are also active in the New World and the South of France.

The Lurton family is not some centuries-old French aristocratic dynasty. They are new-comers. It all began in the 1920s with Léonce Récapet, who was a prosperous distiller and vineyard owner in the Entre Deux Mers region. His daughter married François Lurton. Their 4 children took wine making seriously and between them began to build an empire. Lucien and André, in particular, acquired wine estates that were in a bad shape and brought them back on track.

I used to buy the Chateau Bonnet of Andre Lurton, when I was a student in Mainz, Germany; it is a good quality AOC Bordeaux at a very reasonable price. Andre is still running his business, while Lucien has handed over the 11 estates that he had gradually acquired to his 10 children: Châteaux Brane Cantenac, Haut Nouchet, Château Climens, Durfort Vivens, Camarsac, Tour de Bessan, Bouscaut, Duplessis, Desmirail, Villegeorge and Doisy Dubroca. In addition, other family members are flying winemakers and manage wineries. Pierre Lurton is chief executive at Cheval Blanc.

Here is an interesting chart about the holdings of the Lurton family.

Bordeaux and its Classifications

There are four different classifications of Bordeaux, covering different parts of the region:

(1) The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855, covering (with one exception) red wines of Médoc, and sweet wines of Sauternes-Barsac. Château Brane-Cantenac is a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 winery in Margaux.

The 1855 classification system was made at the request of Emperor Napoleon III for the Exposition Universelle de Paris. It ranked the wines into five categories mainly according to price.

The first growths are:

• Château Lafite-Rothschild, in the appellation Pauillac
• Château Margaux, in the appellation Margaux
• Château Latour, in the appellation Pauillac
• Château Haut-Brion, in the appellation Péssac-Leognan
• Château Mouton Rothschild, in the appellation Pauillac, promoted from second to first growth in 1973.

At the same time, the sweet white wines of Sauternes and Barsac were classified into three categories, with only Château d'Yquem being classified as a superior first growth.

(2) The St. Émilion Classification was introduced in 1955, with 3 levels. It is revised every 10 years. The most recent revision is the one of 2006. There are now: 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé, devided into 2 classes 'A' and 'B' (with Château Cheval Blanc and Château Ausone the two top names)and 46 Grand Cru Classé.

Unusually, the St. Emilion 1955 Classification is integrated with the AOC system of St. Emilion, comprising 3 appellations: (1) Appellation St. Emilion Controlee, (2) Appellation St. Emilion Grand Cru Controlee, and (3) Appellation St.Emilion Grand Cru Classee Controlee. This creates a lot of confusion for the non-expert wine drinker. First, the material difference between the first and the second group, the "Controlee" and "Grand Cru Controlee" wines, is minor; over two hundred Saint-Émilion wines carry the description "Grand Cru Controlee", although they are no way at the "Grand Cru", i.e. at the top level. Second, the difference on the label between second and the third group, the "Grand Cru Controlee" and "Grand Cru Classee Controlee", is minor, just the word "Classee", although only the latter are the top wines of the 1955 Classification.

(3) The 1959 Official Classification of Graves, initially classified in 1953 and revised in 1959.

(4) The Cru Bourgeois Classification, which began as an unofficial classification, but came to enjoy official status and was last updated in 2003. However, after various legal turns, the classification was annulled in 2007.

There is no official classification applied to Pomerol. However some Pomerol wines, notably Château Pétrus and Château Le Pin, are often considered as being equivalent to the first growths of the 1855 classification, and often sell for even higher prices.

Finally, Bordeaux has some 57 AOCs in 3 levels. The lowest ranking is the Bordeaux AC, the middle rankings are district wines, like Médoc AC and the highest level are commune wines, like Margaux AC. Bordeaux Supérieur AC indicates that the wine has a bit more alcohol than a Bordeaux AC.

What Henri Lurton Poured

Le Baron de Brane (Margaux) 2008

58% Cabernet Sauvingon, 40% Merlot, 2 % Cabernet Franc

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, nose of pepper and strawberries, medium- to full bodied wine, good structure, black fruits with roasted coffee on the palate, long finish.

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2008

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28%Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, strawberries and vanilla on the nose, a medium- to full-bodied wine, round tannins, with good concentration and a long finish.

Le Baron de Brane (Margaux) 2006

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, appealing on the nose, with ripe dark fruits and some oak, a medium- to full bodied wine, good acidity, cherries on the palate with a gentle layer of ripe tannins, long finish.

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2006

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, notes of spices, pepper and sandalwood on the nose, a medium- to full bodied wine, good structure, soft, round, creamy on the palate, with cassis and blackcurrant, has a well balanced character, lingering finish.

Bordeaux in 5 Minutes

If you want to get a quick introduction to Bordeaux, go to Heike Larsson's vinum diligo blog . Also, Chateau Brane Cantenac has a very active Facebook Fan Page.


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The 94 plus Brunello di Montalcino Wines – Falstaff 2010 Selection

Falstaff, the Austria-based Wine Guide, has released its list of top Brunello de Montalcino Wines. 8 Wines are in the 94 to 96 points range (see below).

Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello di Montalcino is a red wine produced in the area surrounding the town of Montalcino, in Tuscany. Brunello, roughly translated as "nice dark one" in the local dialect, is the unofficial name of the clone of Sangiovese grown in the Montalcino region. Brunello di Montalcino is one of the Italy's best-known and most expensive wines.

The town of Montalcino is a small medieval village located about 1,850 feet (564 m) above sea level in the province of Siena. Compared to the nearly 41,000 acres (16,592 ha) of planted land in Chianti, Montalcino is a relatively small wine region with around 3,000 acres (1,214 ha) planted. Vineyards in Montalcino are planted in varied soils-including limestone, clay, schist, volcanic soil and a crumbly marl known as galestro-at altitudes ranging from 490 ft (149 m) to 1,640 feet (500 m). Montalcino has one of the warmest and driest climates in Tuscany with the grapes in the area ripening up to a week earlier than in nearby Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Chianti Classico.

Picture: Tuscany wine map (Source: cellartours.com)

Brunello di Montalcino is made 100% from Sangiovese. Traditionally, the wine goes through an extended maceration period where color and flavor are extracted from the skins. Following fermentation the wine is then aged in oak. Traditionally, the wines are aged 3 years or more in large Slovenian oak casks that impart little oak flavor and generally produce more austere wines. Some winemakers will use small French barrique which impart a more pronounced vanilla oak flavor and add a certain fruitiness to the wine.

In addition to Brunello di Montalcino, producers in the Montalcino region can produce wine under Rosso di Montalcino, Sant'Antimo and Moscadello di Montalcino DOCs as well as the generic Indicazione geografica tipica designation of Toscana IGT.

Rosso di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese grown in the same delineated region as Brunello di Montalcino. However, the wine is required to spend only six months aging in oak and 1 year total aging before release. Rosso di Montalcino is typically lighter, fresher and more approachable upon release though some producers will make wines with more Brunello like characteristics. These "Baby Brunellos" are often 1/3 to 1/2 the price of Brunello di Montalcino.

There are 200 Brunello producers in Montalcino now. You find the complete Falstaff list of the best Brunello di Montalcino in their database, which, however, is in German.

The Winning Wines

96 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 2004, Casanova di Neri
96 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004, Poggio di Sotto
95 Brunello di Montalcino PS 2004, Siro Pacenti
95 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004, La Fiorita
94 Brunello di Montalcino Altero 2005, Poggio Antico
94 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004, Uccelliera
94 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004, Poggio Antico
94 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Santa Caterina d'Oro 2004, Ciacci Piccolomini


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Jean Trimbach and the Wines of Maison Trimbach in Washington DC

Picture: Jean Trimbach and Christian G.E.Schiller

Jean Trimbach from the famous Maison Trimbach in Alsace, France, was in Washington DC on one of his regular US tours. My wife and I had the pleasure to attend a dinner at the Sofitel that he hosted.

Alsace

Alsace is one of the several world class French wine regions, which produces many excellent still and sparkling, red and white wines, but above all it is highly appreciated for its unoaked, dry and crisp white wines.

They tend to be different from those in the other parts of France: Higher in acidity, sometimes really sour, but always a pleasant experience to have them in the glass. And they go very well with the Alsatian food, which is also unique in France. The famous choucroute you find only there in France. But of course, you find it also in neighboring Germany, for example in Frankfurt am Main. Compared with Germany, which also is famous for its world class dry wines, Alsace wines tend to be drier, more full-bodied and higher in alcohol. Finally, sweeter white wines and red wines play only a minor role in Alsace, but they have a very good sparkling wine, the Cremant d’Alsace.

Picture: Alsace

Alsace sits in the northeast corner of France, sheltered by the Vosges mountains to the west and hard against the German border to the east. The vineyards reach from around Wissembourg in the north to Mulhouse, 70 miles south. Some 12 million cases are produced annually from 32,000 acres of vineyards.

Alsace is a fascinating amalgam of the German and French. The end of the 30 Years’ War in 1648 gave Alsace to France. In 1871, at the end of the Franco-Prussian War, Alsace was taken by Germany. After World War I, it was once more part of France — until 1940, when Germany reclaimed it. With the defeat of the Nazis in 1945, Alsace became French yet again — and so it has remained. Wine production in Alsace traces its beginnings to the early centuries of the Roman Empire, when the Romans conquered Alsace and introduced wine.

One of the most intriguing characteristics of Alsace wines is that they are bottled under their varietal names, unlike virtually all other French wines. Four grape varieties are considered to be the best:(i) Riesling – like in Germany, the most celebrated grape; (ii) Muscat – often used to produce sweet wines in France, the Alsace version is bone-dry; (iii) Pinot Gris and (iv) Gewurztraminer –Alsace's signature grape. Three other white grape varieties are also grown: (i) Sylvaner – A high-yielding grape, producing a refreshing wine, often used for blends, (ii) Pinot Blanc and (iii) Chardonnay – used only for sparkling wine. In addition, Alsace does have a little red wine made from the Burgundy grape, Pinot Noir. The Alsatian red wines tend to be quite lightweight, but can be delicious and interesting.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Oscar in the vineyards between Ribeauville and Riquewihr

Alsace produces wines under three different appellations: (i) Appellation d'Origine Contrôlées (AOCs) for ¾ of the white, rosé and red wines, (ii) Alsace Grand Cru AOC for white wines from certain classified vineyards and (iii) Crémant d'Alsace AOC for sparkling wines. Alsace makes noble-sweet wines, but does not have the same reputation as Germany or Austria for its noble-sweet wines. I like the Edelzwicker from Alsace, which is blend and an easy to drink day to day wine.

Maison Trimbach

Maison Trimbach’s wine-making history goes back to 1626, when Jean Trimbach was recognized as a citizen of Riquewihr in Alsace. From then on, the Masion Trimbach became renowned for its wines. However, it was not until the turn to the 20th century, when, under the leadership of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach, business really took off. Since then, Maison Trimbach has remained a family run business, based in Ribeauville, just a few miles north of Riquewihr, were it all began almost 400 years ago.

Jean and Pierre Trimbach, the 12th generation, are now in charge, with Pierre looking after the winemaking side and Jean after the selling and marketing side of it. Jean comes 4 times a year to the US to show the wines at dinners and tastings.

Maison Trimbach owns vineyards scattered across three villages, with an emphasis on planting Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The vines have about 40 years of age on average, and are cared for along lines that resemble lutte raisonnée, with a reasoned and restricted approach to the use of chemicals including insecticides and fertilisers. Maison Trimbach is very export-oriented with up to 80 perecent of the production being exported. It is both a domaine and negociant, thus it produces wine sources from own vineyards and from lease contracts.

Maison Hugel & Fils is the other wine producer in Alscace that comes to mind when you talk about large premium producers of Alsatian wine. Based in near-by Riquewihr, it resemble very much Maison Trimbach: Maison Hugel & Fils also has a long tradition of about 400 years, is a highly export-oriented winery, is both a domaine and negociant. We drank the wines of Hugel et Fils recently at the Restaurant des Emotions of Jean Luc Brendel in Riquewihr. See here.

Jean Trimbach

Jean is a lively, amiable character who provides both entertainment and instruction when it comes to his and his brother’s wines. It was a pleasure to dine with Jean Trimbach.

The Menu that Jean Trimbach and Chef Perret of the Sofitel had paired for us

Picture: Chef Perret and Annette Schiller

1st course: Chesapeake Jumbo Lump Crab Cake with frisèe and lady gala apple salad, mushroom essence

Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve 2005

The Trimbach wines come in 4 quality groups: (i) the classic range, (ii) the reserve range, (iii) the reserve personelle range and (iv) the prestige and collection wines.

This is a Pinot Gris, one of the noblest of Alsace grapes, from the reserve range, i.e. a wine made with riper than the classic range grapes.

Tasting notes: light yellow in the glass, attack of pineapple and tropical fruit on the nose - a very impressive nose, a voluptuous body, a fruity wine with some noticeable residual sugar on the palate, balanced by the crisp acidity that gives structure and longevity, a superb Alsatian Pinot Gris.

2nd course: Pan seared Branzino with Swiss chard, curry and salsify roots, Little Neck clams or Duck Confit Risotto with spring asparagus, roasted hazelnuts, shaved parmesan

Trimbach Riesling cuvee Frederick Emile 2002

The Cuvée Frédéric Emile is probably the best known Trimbach wine. It is one of the finest wines of Alsace, if not one of the world's greatest white wines. Cuvée Frédéric Emile bears the name of the most significant person in the 400 year’s history of Maison Trimbach.

Interestingly, the label neither declares the vineyard of origin, nor its grand cru status. Since the creation of the grand cru appellations in Alsace a number of viticulteurs have shunned the system, and Trimbach is one of the most notable names to do so. The Riesling Cuvee Frederic-Emile is always made from Grand Cru fruit from the Geisberg and Osterberg vineyards.

Tasting notes: an Alsatian Riesling at its best, with a fresh, crisp and fruity character, a harmonious wine, which is very rich and fat, but has no residual sugar and has a wonderful mineral structure. This wine benefits from extended cellaring. The classic Riesling cuvee Frederick Emile 2002 was an ideal marriage with the fish, while the combination with the duck was sub-optimal.

3d course: Cheese Plate, imported and local seasonal cheeses

Trimbach Gewürztraminer 2006

A wine from a classic Alsatian grape – Gewuerztraminer – in the classic Trimbach range, a day to day wine.

Tasting notes: attack of flavors of exotic spices, lychee, passion fruit and papaya on the nose, amazing aromas from rose, ginger and geranium on the palate, coupled with some residual sugar, a well-balanced and very aromatic wine.

4th course: Red Wine Poached Pear with green apple sorbet

Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2006

Tasting notes: attractive pale yellow color with bright young green hints in the glass, white flower and apricot notes on the nose, medium-bodied with a creamy palate, classic structure and bright acidity, elegant and easy to understand with a substantial finish.

Maison Trimbacg, Ribeauville, France
http://www.maison-trimbach.com/


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Picture: A Vineyard in the Rheingau

Grosses Gewaechs Wines

The concept of Grosses Gewaechs was introduced a few years ago in Germany for outstanding dry wines. It tries to imitate the concept of Grand Cru wines in the Bourgogne, France. In Germany as well as in France, these are full-bodied, bone dry premium wines.

There were 2 objectives behind the innovation: To restore the prestige of Germany’s significant vineyards and to help the consumer in terms of distinguishing dry from sweet wines.

In a first step, the concept of Erste Lage (First Site) was introduced: all vineyards were rated and the best parcels of them were identified as Erste Lage.

Second, the concept of Grosses Gewaechs was introduced. A Grosses Gewaechse wine is always fully fermented, dry and from a Erste Lage vineyard.

To qualify for the Grosses Gewaechs label, a number of criteria need to be respected. (i) The fruit has to come from a Erste Lage vineyard. In the Rheingau, for example, about 1/3 of the vineyards has been classified as Erste Lage. (ii) At harvest, the grapes need to be at least at Spaetlese level in terms of the sugar content. (iii) Only certain – typical - grape varieties are allowed, including Riesling and Spaetburgunder. Riesling is the only varietal allowed for Erste Lage wines in the Mosel, Nahe, and Mittelrhein, but grapes like Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir), Lemberger, Fruehburgunder, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Gewuerztraminer, and Silvaner are included in other regions.(iv) Further restrictions apply: there are yield restrictions; only hand picking of grapes is permitted and harvest must be late in the autumn.

Picture: The 13 German Wine Regions



Third, although the Grosse Gewaechs wines are at least at Spaetlese level, they are not labeled as Spaetlese, but as Qualitaetswein besonderer Anbaugebiete (QbA). About half of the wine produced in Germany is sold at the QbA level and these wines of lower ripeness are allowed to be chaptalized. Thus, the declassification gives the winemaker the possibility to chaptalize their Spaetlese wines in order to increase the alcohol content in the wine, if desirable. This has nothing to do with augmenting the sweetness level in the finished wine, because Grosse Gewaechs wines are always fully fermented and dry.

Fourth, the must needs to be fermented to full dryness. Erste Lage wines made in a sweet style continue to carry the labels Spaetlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller in Mainz, Rheinhessen, in January 2010

Finally, the Grosses Gewaechs concept is a concept introduced by the VDP association, Germany’s elite winemakers. Only VDP winemakers can use this label, others not. The 200 members of VDP own 4,000 hectares of vines, representing 4% of the German vineyard area, but account for only 2% of total production.

Erstes Gewaechs Wines

The Land of Hessen introduced its own classification before the VdP winemakers introduced the Grosse Gewaechs concept. This applies basically to the Rheingau region.

The Erstes Gewaechs concept is the same as the Grosses Gewaechs concept, with one major difference. Any winemaker – not only VDP Estates – can produce an Erstes Gewaechs wine, provided it is from a Erste Lage vineyard, fulfills all the technical criteria, and passes a final tasting test.

Thus in the Rheingau, there are Grand Cru wines from other than VDP Estates, wheras in the other wine areas only VDP Estates have the possibililty to label their wines as a Grand Cru wine.

In the Bourgogne, the terms Grand Cru and Premier Cru are used and imply a ranking. Grand Cru wines are better than Premier Cru wines. In Germany, Erstes and Grosses Gewaechs wines are exactly at the same level in terms of quality.

The Grosse Gewaechs and Erstes Gewaechs Riesling Wines of 2008

In the year 2008 a total of 231 wines were granted the Grosses Gewaechs or Erstes Gewaechs label. Jens Priewe has tried 179 of them and evaluated them. His conclusion: Not all are great, but the best are world class. He has published his findings on his new web site www.weinkenner.de.

The price range is from Euro 15 to 70. The Points range is from 83 to 94.

Interestingly, the Mosel region accounts only for a small portion of the Grand Cru wines. This does not come as a surprise as many Mosel winemakers prefer sweeter style wines. Rheinhessen, Rheingau and the Nahe dominate the list. The southern regions are also represented, but Riesling does not play the same role in these areas as it does in the northern regions.

Picture: Erstes Gewaechs Producer Gunter Kuenstler, Hochheim, Rheingau, with Annette and Christian G.E.Schiller

Here is his list of the 179 wine which he evaluated, in German. Please drop me an email at cgeschiller@gmail.com if you have any questions on the list.

http://www.weinkenner.de/home/riesling-tabelle.html





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One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyards Wines in Washington DC

Picture: Myron Redford and Christian G.E.Schiller

The Eatonville Restaurant in Washington DC welcomed one of Oregon's pioneering Vineyard's from the Williamette region- Amity Vineyards. Founder Myron Redford was there to discuss his award-winning wines as Eatonville paired them with their Southern-inspired cuisine.

Oregon

Amity Vineyards is in the Willamette Valley, were about two-thirds of Oregon’s wineries and vineyards are. Buffered from Pacific storms on the west by the Coast Range, the valley follows the Willamette River north to south for more than a hundred miles from the Columbia River near Portland to just south of Eugene. But Oregon is not only about Willamette Valley. Oregon’s vineyards span the whole State, rising up and falling over the rolling hills and gentle valleys of more than 12,000 acres (4,858 hectares) of wine grapes. Oregon’s major wine regions are the Willamette Valley, Rogue Valley, Umpqua Valley, and the Columbia Gorge. Some regions straddle the border between Oregon and the States of Washington and Idaho.

Picture: Oregon's wine regions

Wine was made in Oregon in the 19th century already, when Italian and Swiss immigrants planted wine grapes and started bottling wine. Oregon's wine industry was suppressed during Prohibition. It wasn’t until1961, when Richard Sommer set up shop in southern Oregon and planted Riesling, that the modern Oregon wine industry was borne. Other pioneers include David Adelsheim, Dick Ponzi and Bill Sokol-Blosser. Then the French also came with Domaine Drouhin bringing European sophistication to Oregon. In the past 40 years, Oregon has become one of the country’s top three wine States, with 350 wineries producing an average of 5,000 cases each a year. Most of it is Pinot Noir, but there’s also Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and modest amounts of Riesling and Merlot.

Oregon produces wine on a much smaller scale than its southern neighbor California. Oregon's biggest producer ships only 125,000 cases per year and most produce under 35,000 cases. The State features many small wineries which produce less than 5,000 cases per year. In contrast, E & J Gallo Winery, the US’ largest winery, produces about 70 million cases annually. The majority of wineries in Oregon operate their own vineyards, although some purchase grapes on the market.

Like New Zealand, Oregon rode the Sideways Pinot Noir boom for several years, expanding vineyard plantings repeatedly. Now the financial crisis has hit the wine industry. Malbec from Argentina and Camenere from Chile are hot and prices are tumbling. As if weak demand and strong competitors weren't enough, the 2009 crop was a big one -- up 23% from 2008. Combined with the unsold inventory from 2008, the State faces its first significant surplus of wine in many years.

Amity Vineyards

Amity is a small family-owned winery in Yamhill County, established in 1976, 45 miles south west of Portland, above the village of Amity. The winery was the first to produce Gamay Noir in Oregon in 1988. Amity Vineyards also produced Oregon’s first sulfite free wine from organically grown grapes in 1990.

Owners: Myron Redford, Janis Checchia and Vikki Wetle; Founder and President: Myron Redford; Winemaker: Darcy Pendergrass; Vineyard Manager: Robert Taylor.Total Acres: 15; Pinot Noir: 7.5 acres; Riesling: 3 acres; Pinot Blanc: 4.5 acres. Average Brix at Harvest by Variety: Pinot Noir: 21.5 – 22; Pinot Blanc: 19.5 - 21.5; Riesling: 19. Winery Production Capacity: 34,000 Gallons. Source of Grapes: Amity Vineyards (Estate Grapes), Sunnyside Vineyards, Bois Jolie, Cattrall, and Crannell-Amity; Schouten Vineyards-Sheridan; Meadow Vineyard. The labels routinely identify the vineyard source for grapes. All the vineyards are located in the northern end of the Willamette Valley, Oregon's main grape growing area.

Amity’s sulfite free wines

Beginning in 1990, Amity introduced ECO-WINE®, Oregon’s first sulfite-free wine from organic grapes. Myron Redford noted that the challenge was to make a wine about which people say, ‘This is good Pinot Noir’, not ‘This is good, for an organic sulfite free Pinot Noir." He was convinced that with good grapes and careful cellar practices Amity could make good Pinot Noir and bottled it without sulfites. In 2006, the T.T.B., the federal agency regulating wine labels, made them change “Sulfite free” to “No Detectable Sulfites”, but as Myron pointed out, the ECO-WINE is still sulfite free. In 2006, Amity expanded the ECO-WINE ® family to include Marechal Foch and Pinot Blanc.

Myron Redford

He is a legend in the Oregon wine industry. With the launch of his Amity Vineyards in 1974, Myron joined a handful of other pioneer wineries in Oregon. Born in 1945 in Utah, Myron spent his growing years in Seattle, Washington, where he lived until moving to Amity, Oregon in 1974. He attended Antioch College in Ohio where he obtained a BA in Political Science in 1968.

Although winemaking runs in his veins (Myron’s great, great uncle owned part of the Mormon Winery in Toqueville, Utah in the late 1800’s), it was a chance placement of diners at the University of Washington Faculty Club in 1970 that led to his winemaking career. In 1974, Myron purchased a small, existing vineyard in Amity, Oregon. The next two years were spent learning farming and preparing for making the first vintage of wine. He built the winery himself in 1976, and has been making wine ever since. He has supplemented his on-the-job training with short courses and seminars at both the University of California at Davis and Oregon State University.

What we ate and drank

Passed Hor D’ouevres

Tuna-Cucumber Tartar on Wonton Chip with Wasabi Crème
Hierloom Tomatoes and Goat Cheese Bruschetta
Prosciutto wrapped Marinated Mozzarella
Smoked Salmon on Potato Crisp with Crème Fraiche and Caviar

Paired with Amity Vineyards Pinot Blanc 2007

100% Pinot Blanc, 13.00% alcohol, Williamette Valley, $ 17

Tasting notes: On the nose, the wine showed pineapple, stone fruits and mineral notes, a full-bodied wine, with good acidity and a round mouth feel on the palate, coupled with flavors of nectarines and pineapple, reminded me of a traditional Alsatian Pinot Blanc.

First Course

Butter Poached Shrimp with Warm Lentil-Green Bean Salad and Truffle Vinaigrette

Paired with Amity Dry Gewuerztraminer, 2007

Willamette Valley, Alcohol: 13.50%, 100% Gewuztraminer, $ 20.00

Tasting notes: This wine smells and tastes like a traditional Alsatian Dry Gewürztraminer with aromas of lime, flint, pear and spice, on the palate the wine exhibits flavors of lime zest and lychee that leads to a spicy finish.

Second Course

Ancho Crusted Rack of Lamb with Chive Parmesan Whipped Potatoes Blackberry Gastrique and Balsamic Reduction

Paired with Amity Winemakers Reserve Pinot Noir 2007

Willamette Valley, Alcohol: 14.00%, 100% Pinot Noir,

Tasting notes: Light red in the glass, raspberry and tobacco notes on the nose, well structured and elegant, aromas of black cherry, currant, and pomegranate combined with subtle notes of cocoa and sandalwood on the palate, finishes with grace, a feminine wine.

Dessert

Lemon Mousse in Phyllo Cup with Fresh Berries

Paired with Amity Wedding Dance Riesling 2008

Willamette Valley, Alcohol: 10.50%, 100% Riesling, $17.00

The wine had a noticeable sweetness. How was this achieved? Myron explained that this was done by following the practice of the Mosel winemakers in Germany. They cool the fermenting must down so that the fermentation stops and not all sugar in the grape is converted into alcohol. What you get is a sweet wine with a low alcohol level.

Tasting notes: The 2007 Wedding Dance Riesling shows both aromas and flavors consisting of lime and lemon zest, honeysuckle, minerality notes of wet rock and flint, with hints of rose and petrol, a well balanced wine.

Picture: Myron Redford with Eatonville's Chef Rusty Holman


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A Rich Selection of Hungarian Wines at the Hungarian Embassy in the US

Picture: Budapest in the Summer of 2009

I was very thrilled when I received an invitation from the Hungarian Ambassador to the US requesting the pleasure of my company to an Hungarian wine tasting event at the Embassy. The Ambassador was offering us the opportunity to taste some of the best Hungarian wines available on the US market.

Hungary has a Long History of Winemaking

Wine was introduced to Hungary by the Romans. During the Turkish occupation beginning in the early 16th century, displaced Serbs brought the red Kadarka grape to Eger, which was the basis for the red wine blend that later became known as Bull's Blood. It was also during the Turkish occupation that the Tokaj region became known for dessert wines, harvested late to encourage noble rot.

After the Ottoman Empire ceded Hungary to the Austrians in 1699, the Germanic influence was felt with the introduction of grape varieties such as Blauer Portugieser. From 1882, the phylloxera epidemic hit Hungary hard. The 2oth century saw the introduction of modern grapes such as Zweigelt. Under Communism quality was neglected in favour of overcropping, pasteurisation, and industrial production.

Picture: Istvan Kiss, General Manager of Tokaji Kereskedohaz Zrt. and Christian G.E. Schiller

Since 1989, when the Berlin wall came down, there has been a lot of new investment, particularly in Tokaj and renewed interest in the traditional varieties. In general, red grapes have been on the rise. The most important whites are still Furmint and Hárslevelü (the grapes of Tokaj), along with Riesling, Welschriesling (Olaszrizling in Hungarian, and no relation to German Riesling) and Zöld Veltlini (Austrian Grüner Veltliner).

Hungary’s Wine Regions

Hungary has 22 designated wine regions, in all 4 corners of the country. Some people consider the red wines from Szekszárd and Villány in southern Hungary to be the cream of the crop. I am a fan of the Joseph Bock wines from there. Around Lake Balaton, you will find the Balatonfelvidék, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Balatonboglár, and Badacsony regions. Further to the North, the Somló hills and Sopron region also offer fine wine.

Tokaji is the Best Known Wine Region

Noble-sweet Tokaji has been Hungary’s crowning glory for hundreds of years. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, noble-sweet Tokaji was a cherished wine enjoyed by the European Courts, including Louis XIV of France, Peter the Great, Elizabeth of Russia, and Frederick the Great; it graced the wine glasses of Beethoven, Schubert, and Hungary’s native son Franz Liszt.

The vineyards of the Tokaji region were classified long before Bordeaux, already in the 1700s, with vineyards grouped into 3 categories depending on the soil, sun exposure and potential to develop noble rot. A royal decree in 1757 established a closed production district in Tokaji and the classification system was completed in 1772.

Noble-sweet Wines

Mother Nature, under non-special circumstances, produces dry wines in the vineyard. All the sugar in the grapes at harvest disappears during fermentation and no sweetness remains in the wine. There are, however, plenty of sweet wines made around the world. There are different techniques to make a wine sweet. One of them is to let the noble rot suck the water out of the grape, so that the degree of sugar in the grapes is extra-ordinary high.

Picture: Attila Toth, Agricultural Secretary at the Hungarian Embassy in Washington DC and WSET Certified Wine Educator Jason Whiteside

Another technique is used in Portugal to make Port wine. Port wine is made sweet by adding alcohol to the fermenting must so the fermentation stops and the sugar of the grapes remains in the wine. What you get, is a wine with lots of alcohol and remaining sweetness in the wine.

Botrytized Noble-sweet Wines

Botrytis cinerea is the key to the success of many of the world’s most famous noble sweet wines. Also known as noble rot, Botrytis cinerea is a fungus that under the right conditions attacks already-ripe grapes, shrivelling them, concentrating the sweetness and acidity. The grapes end up looking disgusting but they make profound sweet white wines.

Noble sweet wines made on the basis of noble rot are produced in a number of countries. The most famous ones are the Sauternes in France, the Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese in Germany and in Austria, the Austria Ausbruch and the Tokaji from Hungary. No doubt, the first noble rot wines were created by accident - both the Hungarians and the Germans have similar stories of how the harvest was delayed for some reason, but the over-ripe grapes were vinified anyway and then the resulting wine found to be delicious.

Noble-sweet Tokaji

A noble-sweet Tokaji is typically a blend of botrytised (aszu) and non-botrytised grapes. There are different levels of sweetness in the noble-sweet Tokaji wine. The more aszu grapes are blended into base (not- botrytised) grapes, and the sweeter the aszu grapes are, the sweeter the final wine will be.

Picture: Award-winning Embassy Chef Viktor Merényi

To indicate the sweetness of the Tokaji wine on the label, the Hungarians have developed the puttonyos classification system. A puttony is a traditional wooden hottes. Generally, noble-sweet Tokaji wines range from three to six puttonyos. Since joining the EU, wine with one or two puttonyo(s) is no longer allowed to be bottled.

3 puttonyos = 60 grams of remaining sugar per liter
4 puttonyos = 90 grams of remaining sugar per liter
5 puttonyos = 120 grams of remaining sugar per liter
6 puttonyos = 150 grams of remaining sugar per liter

In addition the rare Aszú Eszencia wines contain more than 180 grams of remaining sugar per liter and the Eszencia wines more than 400 grams of remaining sugar per liter.

What is interesting is that Hungarian Tokaji wines are classified according to the level of remaining sweetness in the wine, while German and Austrian noble-sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein are classified according to the sugar level in the grape at harvest.

Once mixed, the Tokaji must undergoes a slow and cool fermentation which can take several months or even years to complete. A practice unique to Tokaji wines is to allow a degree of oxidation to occur during fermentation. In fact, the amount of oxidation often becomes the hallmark of the producer’s unique style.

Picture: The Wines we Tasted

When I was in Budapest last year, I was surprised by the extent of oxidation experienced in many Hungarian wines; I did not like it. In fact, when I spent a week in Budapest earlier last year, I came across several times a dry Tokaji wines, with a distinctive note of oxidation. Initially, I thought the wine was faulty. But then I learned that some wine makers in the Tokaji region still use a vinification method whereby the wine is exposed to air during fermentation , as the Sherry from Spain, and adopts a distinctive style. This style is clearly not appreciated on the international market, but I found it interesting to experience this taste in Budapest.

What we Ate and Drank

WSET Certified Wine Educator Jason Whiteside, DWS, presented the wines, while the Hungarian wine industry and the participating wineries werel be introduced by Agricultural Attaché Attila Tóth. Food pairing was prepared by award-winning Embassy Chef Viktor Merényi.

The Food

Pan Fried Scallop Served with Brown Bread and Cheese Air Foam

Goose Liver Brulee Served with Celery Marmalade

Blue Cheese Coated Grape with Pink Peppercorn and Almond

Veal Cheek Cooked in Red Wine Served with Buttered Potato

Cantaloupe “Caviar” Served with Oven Dried Ham and Fresh Pear

Crispy Sweet Cracker with Tokaji Wine Foam and Dark Chocolate Ganage

The Wines

Törley Grande Cuvée 2008

Wine region: Etyek-Buda, Winery: Törley, www.torley.hu, Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International,joern@monarchiamatt.com, Retail price range: 15 $

Tasting notes: Clean on the nose, flavors of toast and mineral on the palate, refreshing finish.

Tokaj Kereskedöház Tokaji Furmint 2009

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Tokaj Kereskedöhaz, www.tkzrt.hu Awards: Decanter Hungary – Best value, Contacts in the USA: Vinum Tokaj, International, 1-714-794-4840 attila@drinktokaji.com, Retail price range: 8-9 $

Tasting notes: Fresh and fruity on the palate, with mouth-watering acidity, good structure, very approachable.

Disznókö Tokaji Furmint 2007

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaji, Winery: Disznókö, www.disznoko.hu, Awards: Wine and Spirits International – Winery of the Year 1997 ; Winery of the Year, Hungary 2005, Contacts in the USA: Vintus, info@vintus.com, 1-914-769-3000, Retail price range: 15$

Tasting notes: Straw yellow in the glass, attack of peach and apricot, couple with minerals on the nose, good acidity, long, mineral, briny finish.

Alana Tokaji Furmint 2006

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Alana-Tokaj, www.alana-tokaj.com Contacts in the USA: Allison Tonkin, 801-503-7693, friends@alana-tokaj.com Retail price range: 18-22 $

Tasting notes: Wave of quince notes on the nose, rich and concentrated on the palate with loads of fresh peach and nectarines, a bit of residual sugar which rounds out the body.

Dobogó Tokaji Furmint 2006

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Dobogó Pincészet, www.dobogo.hu Awards: Decanter Hungary – Best Furmint of 2006, Retail price range: 14 $

Tasting notes: 100 % Furmint, fermented partly in oak and partly in stainless steel, a lot of honey notes and a bit of petrole on the nose, spicy, wet stone and foral aromas on the palate, long finish.

Nobilis Hárs 2008

Variety: Hárslevelü, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Nobilis, www.tokajnobilis.hu, Retail price range: 18 $

Tasting notes: Fermented in oak barrels with native yeast and aged in 50 % new and 50 % 2-3 years old barrels for 6 months, attack of peaches and melon on the nose, a very perfumed wine, floral aromas, vanilla and honey on the palate, a very distinctive and memorable wine.

Patricius Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2008

Variety: Yellow Muscat, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Patrícius, www.patricius.hu Contacts in the USA: Blue Danube Wines, frank@bluedanubewine.com, Retail price range: 18.95$

Tasting notes: Wave of orange and lemon on the nose, crisp, fruity and clean on the palate, good acidity, with just a touch of residual sugar.

Heumann Kékfrankos 2007

Variety: Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch), Wine region: Villány, Winery: Heumann Pincészet, www.heumannwines.com Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com Retail price range: 20-25$

Tasting notes: Medium dark ruby in the glass, vanilla, plums, raspberries on the nose, a full-bodied wine, mouth filling with fruity aftertaste.

Takler Noir Gold 2006

Variety: Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch), Wine region: Szekszárd, Winery: Takler, www.takler.com Awards: Winemaker of the Year, 2004 Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com Retail price range: 25-30$

Tasting notes: Dark red, almost black in the glass, raspberries and wet stone on the nose, a full-bodied wine, cherry and smoky oak on the palate, long finish.

Picture: The Tables were Nicely set-up for the Tasting

Heumann Cabernet Franc 2007

Variety: Cabernet Franc, Wine region: Villány, Winery: Heumann Pincészet, www.heumannwines.com, Awards: Topwine, X. Pannon Bormustra, 2009 Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com Retail price range: 20-25$

Tasting notes: Dark ruby in the glass, vanilla and spices on the nose, a full-bodied wine, dark chocolate and plums on the palate, with a creamy texture, fine structure, long finish.

Heumann Cuvée 2007

Variety: 50 % Cabernet Franc, 20 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 % Merlot, 10 % Portugieser Wine region: Villány Winery: Heumann Pincészet, www.heumannwines.com Awards: Topwine - Pannon Bormustra Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com, Retail price range: 20--25 $

Tasting notes: Dark ruby in the glass, liquorice nose, blackberries, chocolate and spices on the palate, concentrated and full bodied, good structure and well integrated tannins, long aftertaste.

Heumann Terra Tartaro 2007

Variety: 40 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 % Cabernet Franc, 30 % Merlot, Wine region: Villány Winery: Heumann Pincészet, www.heumannwines.com Awards: Topwine Pannon Bormustra Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com Retail price range: 25-28 $

Tasting notes: Dark ruby in the glass, cassis, underpinned with a fine smell of tobacco and chocolate on the nose, a full-bodies wine, very well integrated tannins acidity structure, an elegant yet powerful wine, long finish.

Gere Kopár 2006

Variety: 52 % Cabernet Franc, 46 % Merlot, 2 % Cabernet Sauvignon Wine region: Villány Winery: Gere Attila Pincészete, www.gere.hu Awards: Winemaker of the Year 1994 Contacts in the USA: Blue Danube Wines, frank@bluedanubewine.com Retail price range: 59.95 $

Tasting notes: Dark red in the glass, attack of dried roses, cedar and cigar smoke on the nose, a full-bodied wine, good structure, a wine that can hold up with the finest from Bordeaux

Takler Regnum Proprietor’s Reserve 2002

Variety: 45 % Merlot, 25 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 % Cabernet Franc, 10 % Kékfrankos Wine region: Szekszárd Winery: Takler, www.takler.com Awards: Winemaker of the Year 2004 Contacts in the USA: Monarchia Matt International, joern@monarchiamatt.com, Retail price range: 60 $

Tasting notes: Dark ruby in the glass, flavors of berries and cherries co-mingle with chocolate and coffee on the nose, a full-bodied wine, luscious in the mouth, with green paprika and sweet pepper on the palate, long finish.

Gróf Degenfeld Fortissimo 2008

Variety: Furmint, Hárslevelü, Muscat Lunel, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Gróf Degenfeld, www.grofdegenfeld.hu, Contacts in the USA: The Country Vintner, 1-800-365-9463, Retail price range: 30-35 $

Tasting notes: Straw yellow in the glass, wave of spiced corn typical of Hárslevelü on the nose, medium-bodied wine, good acidity, notes of honey and pineapple on the palate.

Tokaj Kereskedöház 4 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú 1991

Variety: Furmint, Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Tokaj Kereskedöhaz, www.tkzrt.hu Awards: Vinitaly – Grand Menzione, 2000, 2003; Concours Mundial de Bruxelles 2000 – silver; International Wine and Spirits Competition, London – silver, Contacts in the USA: Vinum Tokaj International, 1 -714-794-4840 attila@drinktokaji.com, Retail price range: 25 $

Tasting notes: Dark golden in the glass, this 4 puttonyos, furmint-based aszú has a sugar content of 117 g/l, is produced from grapes grown in one of the best classified vineyards of Tokaj, the Szarvas-dülö.

Patricius 5 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú 2000

Variety: Furmint, Hárslevelü, Wine region: Tokaj Winery: Patrícius, www.patricius.hu Awards: Wine Spectator 94 points, in Top 100 Wines of 2009; Vinagora International Wine Challenge 2004, Budapest Gold Medal; Decanter World Wine Awards 2006, London Silver Medal; Japan Wine Challenge 2006, Tokyo Silver Medal Contacts in the USA: Blue Danube Wines, frank@bluedanubewine.com Retail price range: 49.95 $

Tasting notes: Dark golden in the glass, the wine announces in its fragrance and taste the apricot and peach hues of the aszú grape, sugar, acidity and alcohol create an elegant balance, smooth structure, long finish.

Alana Tokaj 6 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú 2005

Variety: Zéta, Yellow Muscat, Hárslevelü Wine region: Tokaj, Winery: Alana-Tokaj, www.alana-tokaj.com, Contacts in the USA: Allison Tonkin, 801-503-7693, friends@alana-tokaj.com, Retail price range: 90-100 $

Tasting notes: Intensely fragrant, with notes of citrus, honey and essence of muscat fruit, framed by fresh floral touches, viscous and concentrated body, ultrasweet yet extraordinarily elegant, built on a mouthwateringly zesty tangerine core; long, 45+ second finish, fascinating and hedonistic, a Tokaji par excellence.



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The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Picture: Assaggi Chef Domenico Cornacchia and Christian G.E.Schiller

The Giro d’Italia is one of the world’s most famous cycling races. The 2010 Giro d’Italia, the 93rd edition of the Giro, started off in Amsterdam today, on May 8. A few days ago, Chef Domenico Cornacchia of Assaggi Osteria in McLean, Virginia organized a tasting of Italian wines that follows the route of the 2010 Giro. What a great idea!!

The 2010 Giro d’Italy

The 2010 Giro covers much of the Italian peninsula, and runs counter-clockwise from its start in Amsterdam to the finish in Verona. The Giro rolls from Piedmont on the northern border with France to the Amalfi Coast, then travels across to the Adriatic Coast. From Bitonto, the Giro travels north along the Adriatic and passes through l’Aquila in a commemoration of the earthquake which caused widespread destruction in the city. Then, it’s on to Venezia and the Monte Zoncolan near Italy’s northern border. The final week lingers in Trentino and Lombardia in the north near Switzerland before the final time trial in Verona.

Fausto Coppi

This year, the Giro celebrates the career of Fausto Coppi, with a stage in Novi Ligure, Piedmont. Coppi is Italy's greatest cycling hero. At the same time, he was dogged by tragedy and conflict, from being born into a poor farming family to his premature death from malaria 40 years later. One aspect of that life was his affair with Giulia Locatelli, referred to very seldom by her name, but more simply and detachedly as the "White Lady". They had a child together. The press ate up the scandal as the relationship became public, in a deeply Catholic country where adultery was punishable by prison. It was a liaison so influential to the nation that the Vatican intervened and asked Fausto Coppi return to his wife and family.

Picture: Fausto Coppi

Italian Wine

Italia is home of some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Etruscans and Greek settlers produced wine in the country long before the Romans started developing their own vineyards. Two thousand years later, Italy is world leader in wine, accounting for about 20% of world wine production. Italians also lead the world in wine consumption by volume, 59 liters per capita, compared with 8 litres per capita in the US. Wine is grown in almost every region of the country.

The Classification System

Italy's classification system has 4 groups of wine, with 2 falling under the EU category Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR) and 2 falling under the category of table wine. The 4 classes are:

Table Wine: (1) Vino da Tavola (VDT) - a basic wine, made for local consumption; the bottle label does not indicate the region or grape variety. (2) Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) - this appellation was created in 1992 for wines that were considered to be of higher quality than simple table wines, but which did not conform to the strict wine laws for their region.

QWPSR: (3) Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and (4) Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). Both DOC and DOCG wines refer to zones which are more specific than an IGT, and the permitted grapes are also more specifically defined. Presently, there are about 120 IGT zones, 310 DOC and 30 DOCG appellations.

Wine Regions

There is wine everywhere in Italy, from the Alps in the North to Sicilia in the South, clustered into 20 wine regions, which correspond to the 20 administrative regions. The about 30 DOCG wines are located in 13 different administrative regions but most of them are concentrated in Piedmonte and Tuscany.

The Piedmonte area of northwestern Italy is further divided into the two popular regions of Barbaresco and Barolo. The predominant grape there is the Nebbiolo.
Northeastern Italy has the Veneto area. Soave and Valpolicella are two important regions that produce many local varieties.

The large area in central Italy is Tuscany and is known for Chianti. The Sangiovese is the predominant red grape in Tuscany. The Chianti area of Tuscany is a large geographic area that is divided into eight zones. Each zone has a Chianti DOCG that regulates the Chianti made in that zone.

In Italy’s South are Puglia and the island of Sicily. The Negroamaro grape is widely grown in this area.

Italy’s Grapes

There are several hundreds of indigenous grapes in Italy. The following is a list of the most common and important ones.

Rosso/Red

Sangiovese - Italy's claim to fame, the pride of Tuscany. It produces Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino. Sangiovese is also the backbone in many of modern-styled blends with Bordeaux varietals, typically aged in French oak barrels, to produce a wine for the world market: high-alcohol, fruity and jammy.

Nebbiolo - The most noble of Italy's varietals. Nebbiolo is difficult to master, but produces the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco. Traditionally produced Barolo can age for fifty years-plus, and is regarded by many wine enthusiasts as the greatest wine of Italy.

Montepulciano - The grape of this name is not to be confused with the Tuscan town of Montepulciano; it is most widely planted on the opposite coast in Abruzzo. Its wines develop silky plum-like fruit, friendly acidity, and light tannin.

Barbera - The most widely grown red wine grape of Piedmont and Southern Lombardy, most famously around the towns of Asti and Alba, and Pavia. Barbera wines were once considered as the lighter versions of Barolos. But this has changed. They are now sometimes aged in French barrique, intended for the international market.

Corvina - Along with the varietals rondinella and molinara, this is the principal grape which makes the famous wines of the Veneto: Valpolicella and Amarone.

Nero d'Avola - Nearly unheard of in the international market until recent years, this native varietal of Sicily is gaining attention for its plummy fruit and sweet tannins. The quality of Nero d'Avola has surged in recent years. Trader Joe’s sells a very good Nero d’Avola at a very reasonable price.

Dolcetto - A grape that grows alongside Barbera and Nebbiolo in Piedmont; a wine for everyday drinking.

Bianco/White

Trebbiano - Behind cataratto (which is made for industrial jug wine), this is the most widely planted white varietal in Italy. It is grown throughout the country, with a special focus on the wines from Abruzzo and from Lazio, including Frascati. Mostly easy drinking wines.

Moscato - Grown mainly in Piedmont, it is mainly used in the slightly-sparkling (frizzante), semi-sweet Moscato d'Asti.

Pinot Grigio - A hugely successful commercial grape, known as Pinot Gris in France and Grauburgunder in Germany. Produces crisp and clean wines. Typically mass-produced wine in Italy.

Arneis - A crisp and floral varietal from Piedmont, which has been grown there since the 15th century.

Garganega - The main grape varietal for wines labeled Soave, this is a crisp, dry white wine from the Veneto wine region.

Wine Tasting at Assaggi

The Wine Tasting followed the Giro’s course by sampling the wine varietals from the region, town or place the 2010 Giro traverses during the 2000 mile race. We tasted 16 wines, like the Giro – very fast. There was not much time to reflect and take adeaquate notes. Still, it was a lot of fun in a very lively atmosphere. I felt a bit like in a Osteria in Milano.

Picture: The 2010 Giro'Italia

After the Dutch party with the

(1) Gewurztraminer from H. Lun (beautiful nose, good acidity, lingering finish) the Giro returns to Italy, touching down in Piedmont with

(2) Gavi Vigna del Lago 2008 from Laura Valditerra (crips, fresh, lots of spices on the nose) and the

(3) Barbera d’Asti Bricco del Uccellone 2001 from Braida (dark violet, expressive nose with spices, licorice, plenty of fruit, good acidity, nicely balanced, 91 points The Wine Advocate). The Giro continues its southward journey with two stages running from Carrara with

(4) Valgiano Rosso 2004 (60% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 20% Syrah, wave of blackberry and plum on the nose, a full-bodied wine, round tannins, a long, chocolaty and mineral character, 91 points Wine Spectator) from Tenuta di Valgiano to Montalcino with

(5) Brunello di Montalcino 2004 Donna Olga. Then there is a running stage with

(6) Ferro e Seta 2004 (50% Cesanese and 50% Sangiovese) from Villa Siomone-Costantini in the Appenino not far from Roma. The Giro returns to the flat lands with two stages for the sprinters from Frosinone to Cava de’Tirreno with

(7) Kerres 2005 (100% Piedirosso) from I Pentri, and Avellino to Bitonto with

(8) Quarantale 1998 (Negro Amaro and Malvasia Nera) from Rosa del Golfo, which passes through Campania to the Adriatic Coast. As it heads deeper into Abruzzo, the Giro races over bumpy territory in the earthquake country around l’Aquila, which hosts the finish of a hilly 256 kilometer stage with

(9) Dante Marramiero 1998 (100% Montepulciano CRU, one of the 3 wines that cost more than $1000 a case) from Marramiero. Then the Giro races north through Porto Recanati and Cesenatico with

(10) Conte Guido 2000 (Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon). From Cesenatico, there’s a transfer to Ferrara in Emilia-Romagna with

(11) Magnificat 1997 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, opaque purple in the glass, viscous and oily with never ending legs, thick and concentrated, long finish, 90 points The Wine Advocate ) from La Palazza Drei Doná and the final week of the Giro is a hilly affair through Venezia with

(12) Amarone Case Vecie 2004 from Brigaldara (one of the 3 wines that cost more than 1000 $ a case, almost 17% alcohol, notes of dark blueberries, spices and herbs on the nose, a full-bodied wine, lingering notes of sweetness round out the long finish, 94 points The Wine Advocate), Friuli with

(13) Tato 1999 (a barrique-aged blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, a new world style wine, purple in the glass, graphite and black currant on the nose, a full-bodied wine, good acidity, nice finish, 90 points The Wine Advocate) from Sant’Elena, Trentino with

(14) Mason 2003 (100% Pinot Noir, attack of ripe berry and earthy notes on the nose, a full-bodied wine, good structure, long finish, 90 points Wine Spectator) from Manincor, and Lombardia with

(15) Ai Suma (100% Barbera d’Asti CRU, the most expensive wine of the tasting, aged in 100% new oak, very much new world style, inky in the glass, notes of chocolate and berry jam on the nose, a full-bodied wine, dense, lush on the palate, lingering finish, 94 points The Wine Advocate). For the final stage, the Giro skips its traditional finish in Milano, thanks to a dispute with the City Council in the northern city. Instead, the 2010 Giro finishes with a 15 kilometer time trial in Verona with the amazing

(16) Recioto della Valpolicella 2001 from Monte Faustino (15% alcohol, with noticeable sweetness).

What a ride! We enjoyed tasting a comprehensive array of 16 different wines from some of Italy’s finest producers from 11 different Italian regions (Piedmont, Tuscany, Lazio, Campania, Puglia, Abruzzo, Marche, Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Friuli, Trentino).

Italian Dinner

Following the tasting, we enjoyed a 4 course Italian dinner, prepared by Assaggi Osteria's renowned chef/proprietor Domenico Cornacchia and paired with wines from the Bartali, Icario and Fontalpino wineries.

Finti Ravioli di Pesce Spada con verdurine e colatura di Alici
Mock Swordfish ravioli of vegetables, greens and “colatura di Alici”
Wine pairing: Vermentino Lugure, Sardus Pater , Sardegna
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Lasagnette Verdi con ragu’ d’Anatra e Porcini
Spinach Lasagnette with porcini mushrooms and Duck Ragu
Wine pairing: Gaglioppo, I Greco, Calabria
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Spalla D’Agnello con erbe e limone, carciofi alla menta e fave al prosciutto
Roast Spring Lamb shoulder with lemon, and herbs, mint artichokes, and fava beans with prosciutto
Wine pairing: Nero d’Avola, Caruso e Minini, Sicilia
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Semifreddo al Gorgonzola con croccante alle noci
Gorgonzola nougat with walnut crisp
Wine pairing: Orvieto Passito Calcaia Muffa Barberani, Umbria

Dominico Cornacchia, Dominic Nocerino and Giovanni Cesaratto

Domenico Cornacchia is the chef at and owner of Assaggi Osteria. He was corporate executive chef and partner at Café Milano, for more than 15 years. For those who love Italian cuisine, Assaggi Osteria features homemade pasta, fresh seafood, veal and scrumptious beef.

Picture: Domenico Cornacchia and Christian G.E. Schiller

Dominic Nocerino led the tasting. Dominic is the founder and owner of Vinifera Imports. Vinifera Imports represents a number of the most celebrated producers in Italy's greatest wine growing areas. Dominic's knowledge, understanding, and enthusiasm added immensely to this event. Giovanni Cesaratto is co-owner and the Maitre d’Hotel of Assaggi Osteria. He very ably orchestrated the whole event.

Assaggi Osteria, Virginia
http://www.assaggiosteria.com/

Vinifera Imports, New York State
http://www.viniferaimports.com/





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