Monday, October 28, 2024

Angélus (Saint-Émilion, France) and Battenfeld-Spanier (Rheinhessen, Germany): Spectacular Winemaker Dinner at Steins Traube (1 Star Michelin) in Mainz, with Hubert de Boüard de Laforest (Angélus), H.O. Spanier (Battenfeld-Spanier), Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai, Host Alina Stein and Chef Philipp Stein, Germany (October 2024)















A week earlier, I was at Steins Traube for a similar evening:
 
Bollinger (Champagne) and Weil (Rheingau): Spectacular Winemaker Dinner at Steins Traube (1 Star Michelin) in Mainz, with Cyril Delarue (Bollinger Family), Wilhelm Weil, Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai and Chef Philipp Stein, Germany (October 2024) 
 
This time, we were honored by the presence of Hubert de Boüard from Saint-Émilion, who presented his Château Angélus wines, which retail for several hundred of US dollars per bottle (the current wine-searcher average price in US$ is 407), and of H.O. Spanier from Rheinhessen, who presented his Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier wines, including 3 vintages of the ultra-premium C.O. Liquid Earth, the first German dry Riesling that is sold via the Place de Bordeaux; the current wine-searcher average price in US$ is 204).

Guiseppe Lauria, editor-in-chief of the Weinwisser, was also there. 

Château Angélus

Château Angélus is an iconic estate, sitting in the middle of a natural amphitheatre on the south-facing hillside of the famous footslope „pieds de côtes“, just half a mile from the village of Saint-Emilion.

Château Angélus has been owned by the de Boüard de Laforest family since 1909, when the Domaine de Mazaret was bequeathed to Comte Maurice de Boüard de Laforest.

The name refers to the three Angelus bells audible from the vineyards, coming from the chapel at Mazerat, the church in Saint-Martin de Mazeret and Saint-Émilion.

Château Angélus consists of 23.4 hectares with a grape variety of 51% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The estate also produces a second wine, Le Carillon de l’Angelus. The annual production averages 10,000 cases of the Grand Vin and 1,000 cases of the second wine.

In June 2012, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, was named Executive Manager. The family of Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal has been making wine in Saint Emilion for nine generations.

Classification

In the classification of 2012, Château Angélus was promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé A. Four estates were in that top group - Angélus, Ausonne, Cheval Blanc, Pavie.  

The 2022 St. Emilion classification has faced some controversy and Angélus - along with other prominent estates, including Ausone and Cheval Blanc, withdrew from the process. There are now only two estates classified as Premier Grand Cru Classé A: Figeac and Pavie.

Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, Jean-Bernard Grenié and Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal

Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal is the daughter of Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, who joined the family business at Angélus in 1976. Until she took over, Château Angélus had been run - for several decades - by Stephanie’s father Hubert de Boüard de Laforest and her uncle Jean-Bernard Grenié, who we met in Washington DC. Initially, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest worked under his uncle, but he became the #1 in 1985.

Starting with the 1988 vintage, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest rapidly changed things at Château Angélus. He was one of the first Bordeaux wine makers to embrace fermenting in open top vats and conducting malolactic in small barrels. In the vineyard, he lowered yields. He began aging wines in new oak barrels.

Today, fermentation takes place in a combination of temperature controlled stainless steel vats, concrete and open top, oak vats at 28 to 32° degrees Celsius. Everything in the cellar moves by gravity flow. After malolactic fermentation in barrel is completed, the wine is aged in 100% new, French oak barrels for between 18-24 months.

In addition to progressive winemaking, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest also has embraced new kinds of marketing, including movie product placement. Angélus has made appearances in three dozen films, including “Casino Royale” in 2006 and “Passion” last year.

The de Boüard de Laforest family also owns other estates in the Right Bank including Chateau Bellevue and Chateau Daugay in St. Emilion and La Fleur de Bouard in Lalande Pomerol. In fact, the tasting took place at Chateau Bellevue, which is in walking distance from Chateau Angélus.

Château Angélus - Visits and a Tasting

Annette and I have visited Angélus twice on a Bordeaux by ombiasy WineTours trip: 

See:  

Visiting a “Holy” Construction Site: Château Angélus in Saint-Emilion, France


Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France 
 

and have enjoyed a tasting with Jean-Bernard Grenié, organized by Panos Kakaviatos:

See: Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier

Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot are among Germany's wineries that have reached world-class status. They are owned and run by the winermaker couple H.O.Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot.

It was only in 1993 that H.O. Spanier founded Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier in Hohen-Sülzen at the southernmost tip of the Rheinhessen Wonnegau region. Weingut Kühling-Gillot can look back to a longer history. It is located in the north of the Rheinhessen region, close to Mainz. Carolin took over the winery from her parents after she finished her studies at Geisenheim University.

Since their marriage, Carolin and H.O. have reorganized and streamlined the operations of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot two wineries quite a bit.

There is no wine made in Bodenheim at Weingut Kühling-Gillot any more. The winemaking facilities of both Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot are in Hohen-Sülzen.

H.O. takes the lead in terms of winemaking for both wineries and Carolin is more active on the administrative and marketing side of both wineries.

Carolin and H.O. have constructed a lovely tasting room in Bodenheim at Weingut Kühling-Gillot which is the central place for selling and marketing the wines of both Weingut Kühling-Gillot and Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier. You cannot buy wine of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier in Hohen-Sülzen, but only in Bodenheim.

Carolin and H.O. live with their children in Hohen-Sülzen in a posh villa just next to the winemakng facilities of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot.

This is where we were received the last time by Carolin Spanier-Gillot for a tasting of both Weingut Kühling-Gillot and Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier wines. The outlay of the villa allows for receiving guests in an intimite way, which is not possible in the tasting room in Bodenheim. 

See:

Tasting the Wines of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot at the Spanier Family Home in Hohen-Sülzen and Touring the Winery with Carolin Spanier-Gillot - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours 
 

Steins Traube - Michelin

Thanks to the commitment of the Stein family, what began in the early 20C as a village tavern has evolved over the decades into a modern restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine. Owner and head chef Philipp Stein represents the sixth generation at the helm. His outstanding culinary talent is such that there is no need for ostentation or gimmicks in his dishes. What may, at first glance, seem simple is actually exceedingly complex in terms of flavour and harmony, yet accessible for all that. His dishes demonstrate a restrained elegance, but he is also able to draw on a bolder sense of innovation when he deems it necessary. Choosing where to sit is not easy, because the smart and modern yet cosy interior is just as inviting as the beautiful inner courtyard. Friendly service comes courtesy of Alina Stein, your cordial young hostess.



Chef Philipp Stein

Philipp Stein was borne in Mainz, where his parents were the fifth generation to own and run the Steins Traube restaurant. In 2019, at the age of 29, Philipp and his wife Alina took over the family restaurant, after a period of renovation. Alina Stein manages the service in the Steins Traube restaurant. 

After working with Dirk Maus, at the Ente in Wiesbaden, with Dieter Müller and at Waldhotel Sonnora, in 2014, Philipp Stein took up his first position as head chef at the Favorite restaurant in Mainz. In the same year, he was awarded a Michelin star and became the youngest Michelin-starred chef in Germany in that year. Philipp and Alina Stein met at the Favorite restaurant, where Alina holding the position of restaurant manager. Since 2017 Philipp Stein he has been a regular television chef on the ARD program ARD-Buffet.sommmelier.podigee: Kein Sprungbrett, ein Trampolin muss Maria Vizsnyai unter den Füßen gehabt haben, so schnell wie sie sich in die Top 50 der besten Sommeliers Deutschlands katapultiert hat.

Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai
 
Sommelière Maria Vizsnyai had just returned from Düsseldorf from the Rolling Pin Convention, where the new list of Germany's top 100 chefs and top 50 sommeliers had been released. Bravo, Maria, she made it to #11 on the 2024 List of Top 50 German Sommeliers (Rolling Pin).
 
sommelier.podigee.io: Kein Sprungbrett, ein Trampolin muss Maria Vizsnyai unter den Füßen gehabt haben, so schnell wie sie sich in die Top 50 der besten Sommeliers Deutschlands katapultiert hat.
 
Maria Vizsnyai: Sommeliere zu sein ist für mich mehr als ein Beruf. Das Foto in den Weinbergen ist ja sehr passend gewählt. Mein Job ist mein Hobby und meine große Leidenschaft!Mein Ziel ist es, all die verschiedenen Facetten von Terroirs, über die Charakteristik des Jahrgangs bis hin zur Philosophie des Winzers, welche der Wein widerspiegelt, zu zeigen und unseren Gästen transparent und authentisch zu vermitteln.
 







Arriving


Zum Aperitif

Garnelen-Curry-Croustillant

Kalbstatar-Tartelette mit Mango-Miso-Mayo

2010 Grande Cuvée Blanc de Blancs, Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier
































Begrüssung




Menü





Erster Gang

Carpaccio von Roter Wildgarnele

Purple Curry - Helles Ponzu - zweierlei Kürbis

Sot-l'y-laisse von der Maishenne - Hühnerkeulen-Buttermilch-Praline

2020 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Frauenberg Riesling GG aus der 5-Liter-Flasche







Zweiter Gang

In Käuteröl gegarter Atlantik Adlerfisch

Lauwarmer Kohlrabisalat - Senfkörner - Saublingskaviar

Gebratener Blumenkohl - Nussbutterschaum

2017 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling Kreuzberg Versteigerungswein

2019 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling Kreuzberg Versteigerungswein

2021 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling Kreuzberg Versteigerungswein






Dritter Gang

Konfierte Keule vom Stubenküken

Waldpilzsud - Liebstökel - Burgundertrüffel - Buchenpilze

2014 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling C.O. Liquid Earth

2016 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling C.O. Liquid Earth

2019 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling C.O. Liquid Earth



Vierter Gang 

Gebratene Brust von der Challans Ente 

Hibiskus-Haut - Gänseleberroyal - Rote Beete - Brombeerjus 

2015 Carillon d`Angélus

2015 Carillon d`Angélus





Fünfter Gang 

Rücken vom US Prime Beef unter der Pfefferkruste 

Serrano-Bohnen - Rinderzungen-Jus Rosmarin-Bérnaise - Pommes rissolées 

2014 Château Angélus 

2015 Château Angélus 









Sechster Gang

Gereifter Brillat Savarin
 
Perigord Trüffel - Portweinreduktion - karamelisierte Haselnuss
 
2006 Château Angélus 

2011 Château Angélus 
 




Dessert

Crème von Vanille und weisser Schokolade

Trockenaprikose - Karamelleis - Flugmango - Five-Spice-Ganache

2015 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling Auslese Frauenberg
 





Danke  








 
Petit Four
 
 
Bye-bye
 





 
Die Weine

 
"Absacker" (After Dinner Drinks)
 



 
Gute Nacht

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