Tuesday, November 29, 2022

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Couvent des Jacobins, Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Émilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France





The Couvent des Jacobins, Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Émilion, is right in the middle of the old town of Saint-Émilion. Following an extensive lunch:

Gourmet Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

we walked there from our hotel. This was the last event of the day and the last event in Saint Saint-Émilion. We toured the cellar and had a tasting of 3 wines.






Couvent des Jacobins

Nestled at the heart of the World Heritage city of Saint-Émilion, Couvent des Jacobins is among those places whose soul and identity linger in the memory of those who visit it. From the Middle Ages to today, from the Jacobin Friars to the Jean and Joinaud families, Couvent des Jacobins has spent almost 7 centuries celebrating winemaking, an exceptional terroir, and the great tradition of the Classified Growth wine estates of Saint-Émilion, a unique UNESCO World Heritage. » This fascinating estate shows us the history of winemaking in this Right Bank region. 

The monks started making wine in the 13-hundreds. During the French Revolution the property was nationalized but was later passed to private families. In 1902 the property was purchased by Jean Jean and is now in the hands of the fifth generation of the family. Today it is Xavier Jean and Rose-Noëlle Borde, direct descendents of Jean Jean, who manage the estate. 

The 26 acres of vineyards of Le Couvent des Jacobins are spread out in different areas of the Saint-Émilion appellation. One part is on the limestone plateau, other parts are on soils of clay-limestone, molasses closer to Fronsac, ferrous sand, and clay soils. 

The vineyards are planted with relatively old vines (45 yrs and older) of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet-Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Thus the wines show a unique character. 

In 1969 the estate was awarded the Grand Cru Classé classification. In 2015 Denis Pomarède, who has been overseeing the production at Couvent des Jacobins for a long time, started the transition to organic winemaking. In September 2020 the estate received the organic certification by Ecocert. Given the age of the vines, the limited yields make for rather concentrated, structured, and powerful wines with an incredible ageing potential.













Couvent des Jacobins

(The Fermented Fruit)

The wine blogger "The Fermented Fruit" visited the estate at about the same time and issued an excellent report on his/ her blog, which I am re-releasing. 

Couvent des Jacobins has just celebrated their 120 year anniversary since the Jean family acquired the estate in 1902. As only one of two Grand Cru Classe located within the historic walls of Saint-Emilion, the estate boasts a longstanding history of producing estate wines, but Monks were the early vintners in this monastery, originally crafting more simple wines from the Merlot grapes they cultivated.

At that time, there were just two hectares of vineyards, having since expanded to a total of 10.5 hectares of vineyards located entirely within the historic city walls of Saint-Emilion. Of the 10.5 hectares, .5 are planted to Petit Verdot, one Cabernet Franc and the remaining 9 hectares Merlot, the variety most associated with Saint-Emilion. 

Today, the estate is in the good hands of fourth generation owner Xavier Jean, who considers himself more of a steward and caretaker rather than an owner.

The focus is to look after the estate for the next generation, charged with the task of balancing preserving its history while making the improvements necessary to stay relevant and increasingly important, conscious of the environment. For example, after an arduous four year long certification process, the winery is now fully certified organic as of the 2020 vintage.

I last visited the estate in 2018 and was impressed not just by the history and beauty of the property, but the quality of the wines and extensiveness of the cellars, with vintages dating back to 1947! Needless to say, I jumped at the opportunity to visit again and spend some time with the winemaker as he worked his magic in the cellar. 

Denis Pommarede, who has been Winemaker at Couvent des Jacobins for an impressive 26 years, is most at home in the cellar, embracing a hands-on approach to his winemaking. While discussing the nuances of fermenting lots in barrel vs tank, closely monitoring fermentation temperatures and being ready to adapt when necessary, and strictly doing manual pump-overs, he draws the analogy that he is more like a Chef who works in a kitchen, rather than a “business chef” who travels from restaurant to restaurant directing staff to execute their vision. 

Denis is not afraid to get his hands dirty. While discussing his reasoning for barrel fermenting specific lots versus fermenting in tank, a member of his team calls for his assistance, and Denis manages to fix an electrical issue causing a pump to fail with his bare hands in a matter of minutes.

He explains to me that while learning to make wine in Hungary, we didn’t have much to work with. “We worked with what we had”, he tells me, and I’m convinced he has learned a thing or two along the way. He also encourages his team to be open to making changes when necessary to achieve a higher-quality wine, which is his ultimate goal. I had the opportunity to ask him a few questions…

What are you working on today in the cellar?

We are working on the ecoulage, meaning the racking of the wines after the fermentation. We macerate the juice for 10-15 days after the fermentation, which can be up to 45 days. During this process we are separating the juice from the cap separating the wines by lot (for example, 4 lots of Merlot) while allowing the juice to undergo malolactic fermentation before moving the juice to barrels. 

You have been the Winemaker here for 26 years! What makes the wines of Couvent des Jacobins special?

The regularity and the quality of Couvent des Jacobins. When the winemaker remains for so long, the winemaker knows exactly vintage by vintage the terroir, type of soil, and quality of vines. I have also planted the new vines and understand the potential of the terroir and new vines. What makes our wines special is the quality of Couvent des Jacobins, resulting from a combination of the quality of the terroir and my experience here. 

From your vineyards at Couvent des Jacobin, is there a particular variety that you are most fond of?

The Merlot, because of the typicity for Merlot and it does so well in Saint-Emilion. Merlot is more fresh and fruity than Cabernet Sauvignon. But as the climate changes and the weather keeps getting warmer it can be difficult for Merlot, so we have to adapt our blends. It used to be Saint-Emilion wines were 90% Merlot, but now it is more like 70% as we adapt to rising temperate. Now we utilize Petit Verdot to contribute to the freshness and the acidity that we want for our wines. 

Many consumers fear that some Bordeaux producers are embracing a New World winemaking style. How would you describe your winemaking philosophy? 

We aren’t extracting a lot during the vilification. We just control the process and nature gives you the potential. We try to do our best job to achieve the quality of Couvent des Jacobins, and we work hard to preserve the potential of the of the berries as that is where the quality comes from, not from technology. If you have good maturity of the skins and good weather, you don’t have much to do, nature does it for you. Our goal is to preserve the potential of the vines, 80% of the work is done in the vineyards. 

What are your thoughts on the 2022 vintage?

Normally harvest begin around September 26th, but this year it began on September 6th which is quite early. We have had a dry growing season with a lot of sunshine, and the wines will benefit from good concentration and quality as a result.

Le Menut de Jacobins 2016: Roughly 15 to 20% of the production goes into the second label each year. Softer and considerably more open-knit than the grand vin, with beautiful strawberry and licorice flavors underscored by hints of forest floor. Finishes with good moderate length and supple tannins.

Couvent des Jacobins 2016: 5% PV, 11%CF, 86% Merlot. Fresh and pure on the nose with aromas of black cherry and pomegranate laced with mint and licorice and subtle hints of strawberry. Wonderfully fragrant. Builds on the palate with fine but intense structure, becoming spicy with mouthwatering acidity maintaining freshness and balance. Superb!

Calicem 2016: 100% Merlot from 60 year old vines. Pure and soft nose. Aromas of strawberry and cherry are underscored by subtle suggestions of roasted meat. On the palate, it’s structured but pillowy soft in texture, with finely grained tannins providing the framework while hints of toast and licorice linger on the lengthy finish. 

A visit and tour of these historic cellars is a must for anyone visiting Saint-Emilion, and now it’s easier than ever. Couvent des Jacobins was one of the first wineries to open their doors for tours and tasting post-pandemic, welcoming more than 800 visitors to their estate this year alone.

While most wineries in the region remain open only during the busy summer season, they have decided to stay open year-round, with the exception of a much-needed respite in January. And if you’re unable to visit, you’d be rewarded for asking your local wine merchant to bring in a case of their wine. It’s unlikely to be the last. xx



Bye-bye

Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France 

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics 

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tour and Tasting at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux – A Short Introduction

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Clos Puy Arnaud with Owner Thierry Valette, Appellation Côtes de Castillon - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch at Restaurant L’Atelier de Candale in Saint-Laurent-des-Combes - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Cellar Tasting at Tertre-Rôtebœuf with Owner/ Winemaker François Mitjavile, Appellation Saint-Emilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Saint-Émilion: Tour of Saint-Émilion and Dinner at Restaurant Le Bouchon on the main Square - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Vineyard Tour in a Golf Cart and Tasting at Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Émilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Dassault with the Managing Director, Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Émilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France 

Gourmet Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Couvent des Jacobins, Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Émilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France 

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour, Lecture and Tasting at Château Reynier with Owner/ Winemaker Marc Lurton, Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Reynier, Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers, with Owners/ Winemakers Marc Lurton and Agnès Lurton 

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Coutet, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Sauternes, with the General Manager - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch at Restaurant L’Entrecœur in Preignac - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Grand Cru Classé Appellation Pessac-Léognan - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch at Restaurant Le Bord d’Eau in Fronsac - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Winery Tour and Tasting at Château de la Rivière, Appellation Canon-Fronsac - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

L’Herbe: Visit of an Oyster Farmer - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm in Grand Piquey/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Winery Tour and Vertical Tasting at Château Cos d’Estournel, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Estèphe - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Cos d’Estournel, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Managing Director Aymeric de Gironde - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch  at La Maison d’Estournel in Saint-Éstèphe - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Phélan-Ségur in Saint-Éstèphe, with Winemaker Fabrice Bacquey - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Phélan-Ségur, with General Manager Véronique Dausse and Winemaker Fabrice Bacquey - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Ferrière, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Margaux - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Pauillac, with Nicolas Glumineau, Managing Director - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Pauillac, with Nicolas Glumineau, Managing Director - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Massive (16 Vintages) Tasting of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande with MD/ Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau and Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC, USA

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

Wine-Pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Gruaud-Larose, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Julien - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Lynch-Bages, 5ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Picnic-style Lunch at Château Kirwan, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Margaux - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch, Tasting and Tour at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Sophie Schÿler, Owner of Château Kirwan, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, for a Wine Pairing Luncheon at Evo Bistro in McLean, with the Wines of RdV and Clemens Busch, USA/ France/ Germany

Dinner in the Private Quarters of the Château Bouscaut, Grand Cru Classé de Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, with Owner Sophie Lurton Cogombles and Winemaker/ Owner/ Husband Laurent Cogombles

Winery Tour and Dinner at Château Bouscaut, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, with Owner Sophie Cogombles-Lurton and her Husband Laurent Cogombles - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France

No comments:

Post a Comment