schiller-wine: Summary of Loire Valley 2025 by ombiasy WineTours, led by Annette Schiller: Wine, Food, History, Culture

Le Val de Loire

WINE, FOOD, HISTORY, CULTURE

Pays Nantais • Anjou-Saumur • Touraine • Centre Loire

Sunday, October 05 – Thursday, October 16, 2025

The Loire Tour 2025 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, October 5 to Thursday, October 16, 2025. The tour started in Nantes and ended in Sancerre, with a bus transfer and lunch in Paris. There were 9 of us including Annette and myself.

Loire 2025 by ombiasy WineTours led by Annette Schiller

Annette Schiller in her announcement: What comes to your mind when you hear ‘Loire Valley’? Of course images of glorious Châteaux pop up in your mind. Yes that is true and we will visit some iconic château and dig deep into France’s history. However, during this wine tour we also discover a magnificent, but often overlooked French wine region and one of the most exciting best kept secrets of excellent, high quality wines at very reasonable prices. The Loire Valley wine region is a vast area and consists of several distinct wine regions, each with its own characteristic grapes, appellations, and wine style. We take you on a journey from the Atlantic Ocean to the Auvergne mountains to explore this unique region. We learn to appreciate “Sancerre”, "Pouilly-Fumé", “Vouvray", “Chinon”, as well as many other not so familiar appellations.

DAY 1: Sunday, October 05

01.30 pm Meeting at the Hotel

03.30 pm Guided visit of Old Town Nantes.

Today Nantes is France’s sixth largest city with a population of about 320.000 in Nantes proper and roughly 1 million in the metropolitan area. The ancient gallo-roman city of Namnetus, founded at a narrowing of the Loire and the confluence of the Erdre and Sèvre Nantaise, owes its rise to its extremely favorable geographical location. Located at the mouth of the river, Nantes was not vulnerable to attacks from the sea and was considered one of the safest seaports when overseas trade began. Nantes took on the
status of an industrial and commercial metropolis. Nantes was conquered by the Bretons in 851 and was the capital of an independent Brittany for hundreds of years. In 1207 a fortress and château -the Château des Ducs de Bretagne-, was built which served as the residence of the kings of Brittany and the center of the historical province of Brittany. In 1446 the last Duke of an independent Brittany François II rebuilt the castle and this is the architecture as we see it today. After Brittany was annexed to France in 1532 -Anne
of Brittany married the king of France- the Château des Ducs de Bretagne was used by the kings of France when they visited the region. After centuries of being the home to dukes and hosting kings and their courts, the castle, gradually abandoned, was put to use as both a barracks and a prison. In 1915, the City of Nantes acquired the building and had a museum added in 1924. In Nantes a mile-stone of French history was written: in 1598 the “Edict of Nantes” was issued which legalized Protestantism to put an end to the
religious wars and to unify France.

07.00 pm Dinner at Brasserie La Cigale in Nantes.

This iconic brasserie across from the opera house of Nantes and our hotel, established in 1895, displaces all the images of the classic, voluptuous style of the late 19th century: an intoxication of ornamental decoration and on top of it a superb meal is served.

DAY 2: Monday, October 06

We start off exploring the Loire Valley wines in the Atlantic region of the Pays Nantais or Lower Loire, the easternmost and last Loire Valley wine region before the Loire River empties into the Atlantic Ocean.

The Muscadet Sèvre et Maine wine-growing region is located on a southern slope, at the confluence of the rivers Sèvre and Maine. The soils are mainly different types of schist.

This region is almost exclusively devoted to white wine, the “Muscadet” - made from the “Melon de Bourgogne” grape - with crackling acidity and sleek citrus fruit.

These are sea-side wines with an emphasis on freshness and the perfect pairing with all sorts of seafood. I quote Flatiron Wines: “Oysters and Melon de Bourgogne: a magical pairing, the two together really are more than the sum of two.”

09.30 am Check-out and departure at Oceania l’Hôtel de France.

10.30 am Visit at Maison Chéreau Carré, Château de Chasseloir in Saint Fiacre-sur-Maine,

AOP Muscadet Sèvre et Maine.

There is evidence that the lands in this region have been cultivated since Roman times. One can see cellars, hewn from the ground and built up with schist and sandstone. The Chéreau family can trace their presence in the Muscadet region back to at least 1412. However serious viticulture only stared with Bernard Chéreau after WWII with the acquisition of more vineyards. The domain began to take the form we see today when Bernard Chéreau married Edmonde Carré, who brought Château l’Oiselinière into
the portfolio and with the purchase of Château de Chasseloir in 1953. Later the acquisition of two more wine estates brought the vineyard area to about 180 acres.

Today the estate comprises four separate properties: Château de la Chesnaie, Château du Bois Bruley, Château l’Oiselinière, Château de Chasseloir. All vineyards are managed sustainable and are certified HVE (High Environmental Value) and mainly planted with Melon de Bourgogne.

12.15 pm Lunch at Restaurant Chez Pipette (beverages on your own)

This is a typical French family restaurant with homemade patés and deserts and a good list of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine wines.

02.00 pm Visit and tasting at Domaine Gadais Père et Fils, in Saint Fiacre-sur-Maine, Muscadet Sévre et Maine, Pays Nantais.

The domaine exists as a mixed farming estate since before the French Revolution. In 1947 Louis Gadais decided to concentrate only on wine production. In 1958 they wrote history when Franck Schoonmaker, an importer of high-quality French wines paid them a visit and started to import Gadais Muscadet wines into the US.

Today it is Christoph Gadais, fifth generation, and his son Pierre-Henri Gadais, great-grandson of two brilliant Loire winemakers – Louis Gadais in the Muscadet region and Henri Bourgeois in the Sancerre region (whom we will visit on the last day of this wine tour) who are running the domaine. Pierre-Henri pushes the domaine into a new direction: while training abroad he gained interest in organic and biodynamic agriculture and they farm sustainably now.

The 125 acres of vineyards are exclusively planted with the Melon de Bourgogne grape and are divided into 100 small parcels to show the specific terroir. “It is the richness and geological diversity, as well as limited yields, that have earned the estate its reputation today” the Gadais family says.

05.30 pm Arrival and Check-in at Hotel d’Anjou in Angers.

Hôtel d’Anjou in Angers, a charming, recently updated 4 star hotel in the heart of the city of
Angers welcoming sophisticated guests since 1857. New additions to the hotel are the
restaurant in an exceptional space decorated with mosaics dating from the 1930s and the great spa
area with sauna, hammam, and Nordic bath.

07.00 pm Dinner (beverages on your own) at restaurant Les Petits Près in Angers.

This is the restaurant of Samuel Albert, who won the 10th series of the French version of the show Top Chef. The menu is created with local ingredients and is the expression of Samuel Albert’s travels: a fusion between Europe, Asia, and America.

DAY 3: Tuesday, October 07

The next days we scout out the Anjou-Saumur wine region. The maritime influence fades and one can sense the shift towards a continental climate. Anjou and Saumur’s most famous grapes are Chenin Blanc, Cabernet-Franc. However, we will also taste fantastic wines made from a range of other grapes mostly unfamiliar to us until now.

Two subregions meet and here are the most prominent wines of the regions:

Crémant de Loire: Must be second fermentation in the bottle with a min. of 9 months on the lees before disgorgement, can be dry, sweet, white, red, rosé.

Anjou, queen of Chenin Blanc: white wines: this is the top spot for Chenin Blanc, (there also is a bit of Sauvignon Blanc) where Savennière is the spot for the best dry Chenin Blanc; noble sweet Chenin Blanc is found along the Layon river, a tributary of the Loire.

Saumur: red wines: Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Grolleau, and blends; the well-known Rosé d’Anjou, mostly a blend of Cabernet Franc and Grolleau, Saumur-Champigny, Chinon, Bourgeuil are the most prominent regions for Cabernet Franc.

Bourgueil is coined as the first village in the Loire Valley to plant Cabernet-Franc. Cardinal Richelieu brought the grape variety from Bordeaux to Bourgeuil wherehis friend Abbot Breton lived. (For the history lovers: Cardinal Richelieu, churchman and statesman, foreign secretary to Louis XIII is known for consolidating royal authority in France, weakening the nobility and Huguenots, and advancing French foreign policy, most notably through France's involvement in the ThirtyYearWar to counter Habsburg dominance in Europe. His efforts helped lay the foundation for French Absolutism, centralizing the state through the establishment of royal intendants and creating a powerful, centralized France).

09.30 am Leaving the hotel.

This morning we explore the AOP Savennières appellation.

The fact that great Chenin Blanc, bursting with power, depth, elegance, and freshness, are produced in Savennières, just a bit south of Angers, is not on everyone’s radar. These wines compete with the great Chardonnays of Burgundy. The reputation comes from some seriously strict regulations in the AOP Savennières concerning vinification: Chenin Blanc is the only grape allowed in the region, harvesting must be by hand, and mandatory low yields guarantee optimal flavor and ripeness in each grape.

10.00 am Visit of Domaine Loïc Mahé, AOP Savennières, Anjou.

The Domaine Loïc Mahé is a rather young wine estate but quickly earned the reputation as one of the premium Chenin Blanc producers. After working as an advisor at the local Chamber of Agriculture, Loïc Mahé planted his first vines in 2000 in Savennières. Today, he has 15 acres planted entirely with Chenin Blanc.

From day one he worked according to organic and biodynamic principles and in the meantime the Domaine is certified by Ecocert. The soil here is distinct and makes for some of the best Chenin Blanc produced anywhere. He is a direct neighbor of the famous Coulée de Serrant vineyard. Loïc’s vineyards have the two primary soils of Savennières: the classic schist (sometimes called shale) of the region, and loess (a windblown sand), locally called sables”.

Loïc holds back the wines a couple of years before release to give them the time to build up weight and to add intensity.

11.30 am Visit at Château des Vaults, Domaine du Closel in Savennière, Anjou.

Domaine du Closel is located right in the center of the cute village of Savennières and produces some of the most beautiful Chenin Blanc wines. The property, the impressive Château des Vaults, was first mentioned in 1495. The château we see today was rebuilt in the 19th century and the park was created in 1850. At that time the family of Emmanuel de Las Cases, biograph of Napoleon, inherited the château and a line of female winemakers and estate managers was born. In 2001 Evelyne de Pontbriand, a literary scholar, who had lived and worked in the US and Germany, took over the reins.

The 35 acres of vineyards are spread out on the most western hill of Savennières and the best plots are Les Caillardières and Clos du Papillon. Evelyne de Pontbriand was a lover of nature and botanics. She immediately started the conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture and today the domain is certified organic and biodynamic by Ecocert and Demeter. Evelyn’s goal is to make wines that are expressing their origins. She says: “Thanks to grassing and plowing, the life of the soil is respected, the soil’s micro-organisms are active: oxygen comes into action allowing maximum exchanges between soil and vine. This is how we obtain the famous terrior effect: combination of soil, the precocity of its warming, plant material, and light.” We had the tremendous pleasure to meet her last year when she showed us her vineyards, gave us an in-depth lecture on biodynamic winemaking and agriculture and shared a fantastic wine pairing lunch with us in her private quarters.

Evelyn died of a heart attack on her 74th birthday in 2024. I am very sad: I was soooo much looking forward to seeing her again on this tour. She was an impressive personality.

01.15 pm LUNCH (beverages on your own)

Brasserie de la Maine in Bouchemaine.

This local hang-out sits right at the spot where the Maine river joins the Loire river.

03.30 pm VISIT of the Château Angers and the Apocalypse Tapestry, listed as UNESCO World Heritage historic monument.

Construction of this mighty fortress and castle started in 970 to protect the Anjou region from any invasion coming from the north from Normandie. You will feel tiny when you stand before this imposing Medieval fortress with its 17 defensive towers.

The main attraction of this castle however is the exhibit of the Apocalypse Tapestry. This incredible monumental medieval work – designed to be transported from place to place – is the largest set of tapestry known to date. It was commissioned by Louis I, the Duke of Anjou in 1373 and it took seven years to finish. The tapestry describes the story of the Apocalypse from the Book of Revelation in colorful scenes in 74 pictures: 103 meters long, 4.50 meters high, 74 scenes, virtuoso weaving, striking details, expressive characters, a fantastic story evoking wars, pollution, disease, famine, death, but also hope: an encounter with a masterpiece unique in the world.

Time to explore Angers on your own.

Although Angers is an Antique city, the Middle Ages are one of the periods to have marked it the most. When wandering the old town, you will become aware of a strong medieval influence in the form of charming, cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, the Saint-Maurice cathedral and monuments built in the Angevin Gothic style. Angers is also the place to learn more about the wines of Anjou, either at the Maison du Vin or at the city’s wine bars.

Evening and dinner on your own.

Annette and I went to a wine bar in Angers - L’Angevigne - focusing on on natural, organic, biodynamic and low-intervention wines.

There is a lot of focus on natural, organic, biodynamic and low-intervention winemaking in the Loire valley. See: Salons des Vins - all with a Focus on Natural, Organic, Biodynamic and Low-intervention Producers in the Loire Valley and elsewhere in France and Europe - in February in Angers and Saumur, Loire Valley, France (February 2024)

DAY 4: Wednesday, October 08

08.45 am Check-out at Hôtel d’Anjou in Angers and departure.

09.15 am Tasting at Domäne Vincendeau in Rochefort-sur-Loire, Anjou.

I let Liv Vincendeau speak: “Born in Darmstadt, Germany, where I also grew up, I first went to study (Master II in chemistry) in York (UK) and Strassburg (Alsace). Arriving in Anjou in 2000 during viticulture-oenology training, I have remained faithful to this beautiful province ever since. Creating my own domain – a dream!... and then a carefully prepared project. Many winegrowers from France and elsewhere have passed on to me their know-how and their passion for this magnificent profession. I thank them wholeheartedly. 2014 is the year of implementation and since then each vintage is a new adventure.”

She produces racy Chenin Blanc, two types of Rosé produced from a blend of traditional and autochthon grape varietals, a noble sweet Coteaux du Layon Rochefort, and spectacular Crémant de Loire. Her Crémant “Zeitlos” is raved about in every single top wine magazine. The domaine is certified biodynamic by Demeter.

10.30 am Visit at Domaine Belargus in Saint-Lambert du Lattey, Anjou.

“This is one of the most spectacular new entries in the history of The Wine Advocate, and it makes the Loire, especially its tributary, the Layon river, one of the most fascinating terroirs in the Anjou region. Domaine Belargus is the name that should soon populate the world’s finest wine lists, especially since the prices are - still?- affordable." I quote Stephan Reinhart, The Wine Advocate.

The domaine was originally the Pithon-Paillé domaine owned by renowned winemaker Jo Pithon who was known for his stunning dry Chenin Blancs. He sold the estate in 2018 to businessman Ivan Massonnat. Belargus has 60 acres of vineyards on exceptional terroir, a mosaic of millenary terroirs 100% dedicated to Chenin Blanc. The domaine’s mission is to express their quintessence through a single-plot approach. The most spectacular parcel of vines is the famous Les Treilles hillside, a sort of Côte Rôtie of the Loire. Only in years with good botrytis, some sweet wines are also produced. The Domaine is certified biodynamic.

12.00 pm Visit at Domaine de la Soucherie in Beaulieu-sur-Layon, Anjou, with Light Lunch

The viticultural domaine is part of the Château Soucherie which was originally a farm owned by the Duke of Brissac. He built this château as a leisure place. In 2007 the château was acquired by Roger-François Béguinot, who made his fortune in infant nutrition. The beautiful château and the winery sit on a high point above the Layon river. The 70 acres of vineyards are immediately around the château on gentle south-facing slopes running down to the river. The soils are various types of schist. A wide variety of wines is produced: the whites from Chenin Blanc: a noble sweet Côteaux du Layon, an every day Anjou Blanc, a top Chaume 1er Cru, and a top Savennière “Clos des Perrières”. Grape varieties planted are Gamay, Grolleau, Cabernet Franc for the reds and Chenin (94%) and Chardonnay (6%) for the whites. The view from the château over the valley in the distance is breathtakingly gorgeous.

03.30 pm Visit of Château de Parnay in Saumur-Champigny.

The beginnings of this beautiful property go back to the 15th century. The location is just gorgeous: it sits on a slope overlooking the Loire river. In the late 19th century the château and vineyards came into the possession of Antoine Christal who transformed the estate into the jewel of the Saumur-Champigny region.

Antoine Christal built a special vineyard called a ‘clos’. Around this ‘clos,’ there are eleven additional walls, each placed between every two rows of vines. These walls have holes near the bottom so the vines can grow through them and face the sunny south while being protected from the wind on the other side of the wall. This setup, as the French say, gives the vines ‘cool feet and a warm belly from the sun,’ which helps the grapes grow well. This single vineyard is called “Clos d’Entre Les Murs” and unique to Château de Parnay.

In 2006 Regis Vincent bought the estate and continues to make it the jewel of the Loire Valley. Today the estate has 87 acres of vineyards in four plots. All plots are located on exceptional clay-limestone soils. The estate is certified organic by Ecocert and biodynamic by Demeter.

05.30 pm Arrival and Check-in at Hôtel Mercure Bords de Loire in Saumur.

Saumur is an incredibly beautiful town at the confluence of the Loire and Thouet rivers worth exploring. The pretty Château dates from the 14th century, but Saumur is most known for its excellent cavalry school with its Cadre Noir, a counterpart of the Spanish riding school in the Hofburg in Vienna, its Crémant de Loire wines, and mushroom cultivation.

07.30 pm DINNER (beverages on your own)

Restaurant L’Alchimiste in Saumur – Bib Gourmet Michelin

This unassuming small restaurant rightly deserves a Bib Gourmand which is a distinction just one step below a Michelin star. Chef François Deplange will introduce you to a refined traditional cuisine with creative twists. His spouse is front of house and will great us with a warm welcome.

After Dinner Drink at the Hotel

DAY 5: Thursday, October 09

09.45 am Leaving hotel.

10.30 am GUIDED VISIT

L’Abbey Royale de Fontevraud in Fontevraud.

The abbey and the monastic order “Order Fontevraud” was founded by a preacher in 1101. The order was recognized as a religious community by the Bishop of Angers. It was a unique order as it was a double monastery: there were nuns and monks following the same rules. The French revolution put an end to the monastery. Luckily, for a long time the buildings served as prison and that saved the monastery from dilapidation. Still today the monastery is of high historic relevance: we will pay a visit to the tombs of the
Plantagenêts who like no others shaped Frances’ history: The union of Henry II, Duke of Anjou, later the king of England and most powerful ruler of the Middle Ages, married Eleonor of Aquitaine, herself one of the most powerful women of her time. Because of this union large parts of France came under English rule – for wine lovers: Bordeaux and the Loire Valley were English for 300 years. Henry II, his wife and their two sons Richard Lionheart and John Lackland and daughter-in-law Isabella of Angoulême are buried here.

12.30 pm LUNCH (beverages on your own)

L’Orangerie Saumur – Le Bistro Château

L’Orangerie is a traditional bistro located in an exceptional setting, the courtyard of the Château de Saumur – the origins go back to the 10 th century - on the top of the hill above Saumur. Enjoy reathtaking views of the historic heart of the city and the panorama of the Loire and its valley, listed as UNESCO world heritage site.

02.30 pm Visit at Clotilde Legrand – Domaine Legrand in Varrains, Anjou

The Legrand family can trace their wine grower history back to the 17th century. In 2014 the first women – Clotilde Legrand – took over and has since become an icon in the Saumur-Champigny appellation. The domaine farms 44 acres, mostly planted with Cabernet-Franc, and a tiny parcel with Chenin Blanc. The vineyards are divided into about twenty plots spread out over the villages of Saumur, Dampierre, Chacé, Varrains, and Souzay-Champigny. The average age of the vines is 45 years, with the oldest being planted in 1927. The soils are clay-limestone and these produce the best Saumur-Champigny wines. In Saumur, the vines grow on gentle slopes which are traditionally enclosed by walls, hence a “Clos”. These tufa (the local name) walls ensure optimal maturation of the grapes through their protection and brightness. All fruit is harvested manually, fermentation is spontaneously, followed by malolactic fermentation and ageing 2 to 4 years in French oak of which is 1/3 new. The vinification is done without adding sulfites. There is no fining and filtering before bottling.

04.30 pm Visit at Maison Bouvet-Ladubay in Saumur.

Maison Bouvet-Ladubay is one of France’s greatest producers of méthode traditionnelle sparkling wine. It is also one of the oldest sparkling wine producers in the Loire valley with a history of more than 170 years. In 1851 Etienne Bouvet and his wife, Celestine Ladubay purchased 8 km of underground tunnels in Saumur with the intention of turning them into cellars. By the 1870s, Etienne was exporting his wines to England, became an official supplier to the House of Lords, and had built a majestic château, a theater, and his own power plant to serve the estate. At the turn of the 19th / 20th century Bouvet Ladubay was one of the largest sparkling wine producers in the world with an annual production of 7 mio. bottles. The couple did not have any direct heirs and after their death the Monmousseau family acquired the estate. Today it is Juliette Monmousseau who runs the business. French wine law dictates that “Crémant” must be produced in the traditional method and that the bottles need to age a minimum of 9 months on the lees
before disgorgement. Very often the Crémant spend many more months on the lees to enhance quality.

05.45 pm Back at hotel.

No group dinner. Annette and I went to the wine bar La Tonelle.

DAY 6: Friday, October 10

The next four days we divided our time between focusing on wine and history, i.e. visiting a few Loire Châteaux where history was written. It is fascinating how events taking place at some of these châteaux shaped France’s and eventually Europe’s course of history.

The Touraine wine region is the Loire Valley’s most diverse subregion. The climate is continental and the terroir is enormously varied: from chalky tuffeau to flinty-clay, some sands and gravels from the river’s deposits. Main grape varieties are Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc for the whites, Cabernet Franc, but also lots of fantastic Gamay, and Côt -the local name for Malbec- for the reds.

Delicious wines are produced from autochthone varieties such as Romorantin for whites, and Grolleau and Pineau d’Aunis for reds. The most famous appellations are Vouvray - always from Chenin Blanc - and Chinon - Cabernet Franc for red wines.

09.00 am Check-out at Hôtel Mercure Bords de Loire and departure.

Today we focused on wines from the AOP Chinon. The medieval town of Chinon is also very important: it is steeped in decisive events having shaped the course of history of France. On the border between the three historical regions of Anjou, Poitou, and Touraine, the fortress-castle occupies a strategic place that was hotly contested in ancient times. From its rocky spur it dominates the entire territory, but also several centuries of history. It was here where the Plantagenêt court of Henry II. and Eleanor of Aquitaine was held and where Henry II. and his son Richard Lionheart died. Much later, in 1429 Joan of Arc met here with King Charles VII. to ask for providing her with an army to defeat the English which eventually ended the 100-year war and gave the territories north of the Loire and the Bordelais back to France after 300 years under English rule.

10.00 am Visit at Domaine Bernard Baudry in Cravant-Les-Coteaux, Touraine.

“Bernard Baudry founded his eponymous estate in the early 1980's with a couple inherited hectares. After graduating from the Lycée de Beaune, he quickly rose to prominence in the appellation for precise, textured Chinon. Today, Bernard is technically retired (vignerons never really retire) and his son Matthieu, who has been making wine with his father since 2000, has taken over as head vigneron. Over the years, the father and son team's fascination with Chinon's diverse terroirs have led them to expand the estate to its current 70 acres.” Quote of their importer Louis/Dressner.

The only grapes grown on the estate are Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. The farming is certified organic, all wines are bottled without fining or filtering. Cravant les Côteaux’s moderate maritime climate is excellently suited to its cardinal grape: cabernet franc. But at the core of the region’s vinous character is the diversity of its soils.

The village takes its name from an old Gallic word for pebbles and the domaine’s vineyards encompass alluvial sands and gravelly flood plains of the Vienne river. (the town of Chinon does not sit at the Loire river, it is the Vienne river, a tributary to the Loire). The clay and limestone plots are further inland.

Domaine Bernard Baudry produces eight different wines: one Chinon Rosé, two estate wines: Chinon Blanc, Chinon Rouge ‘Domaine’, and four single vineyard wines to showcase the different terroir: three Cabernet Francs and one Chenin Blanc. It will be very interesting to compare the 3 Cabernet Franc grown on different soils.

11.15 Tasting at Domaine Couly-Dutheil

There are few names more respected in the Loire than that of Couly-Dutheil, known for the quality of its wines served at the most prestigious tables in France for almost 100 years. Established in 1921 by Baptiste Dutheil it was not until 1928 when the winery flourished. That year, a distant relative, Rene Couly, came to Chinon and married the daughter of Baptiste and Marie, Madeleine. Rene subsequently became the driving force in Couly-Dutheil, increasing the vineyard holdings and dramatically raising the quality of the wines. The estate’s reputation was firmly established by next two generations; first, Pierre and Jacques, then their sons Bertrand and Arnaud. (Pierre and Bertrand have since founded their own domaine.) Couly-Dutheil remains in the visionary hands of the father-and-son team, Jacques and Arnaud, who produce Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc from extraordinary Chinon vineyard sites.

12.15 pm LUNCH

Restaurant Le Lion d’Or in Chinon

This simple village restaurant sits right in the center of Chinon.

02.00 pm Visit at Cave M. Plouzeau in Chinon, Touraine.

In 1846 the Plouzeau family acquires Château de la Bonnelière on the left bank of the Loire river near Chinon. Pierre Plouzeau replanted the neglected vineyards in 1980. A winery was constructed at Château de la Bonnelière in 1989. Marc Plouzeau took over in 1999 and converted to organic viticulture. The wines are aged in a unique space: the cellars under the fortress of Chinon. Here, in these caves, hewn from limestone in the 12th century, the Plouzeau wines mature in oak or concrete eggs and the bottles are also
stored in these caves. I quote Marc Plouzeau: “Our cellars under the fortress of Chinon are a major asset for an optimal breeding. Our mono-parcellaires improve slowly in half-muids, at a constant temperature of 12° C and at high hygrometry. In these conditions, our wines are refined and stabilize naturally. The winemaking techniques are ancestral but use all the modernity that allows to preserve the best potential of grapes.” We will have a tasting of the Plouzeau wines in these incredible caves and Marc will tell us
everything about his idea of winemaking.

05.00 pm Arrival and Check-in at Novotel in Amboise.

07.30 pm DINNER (beverages on your own)

Restaurant L’Écluse – Bib Gourmand Michelin

The Michelin guide says: A step away from the royal castle of Amboise and the Clos Lucé, chef Mélanie Popineau can be relied upon for joyful bistronomique cuisine, rich in flavour, in the form of brief seasonal menus. Diners are warmly welcomed by her partner. In fine weather, the leafy terrace shaded by willows is heaven-sent.

DAY 7: Saturday, October 11

09.00 am Leaving hotel.

Montlouis is an appellation of 1000 acres located directly across the Loire river from Vouvray. Before it was granted AOC status in 1037, Montlouis wines were produced as AOC Vouvray. The soils in both places are similar: sandy clay on a base of tuffeau. Some people claim that the soils here have a slightly higher content of pepples and sand and therefore the Montlouis Chenin Blanc wines are a bit leaner than the Vouvray ones.

09.30 am Visit at Domaine François Chidaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire

The Domaine François Chidaine is a Loire Valley success story. François did not come with a prestigious wine domaine but built a flagship winery with his passionate focus on his philosophy of ecological esponsibility and clever purchases of top vineyards.

Domaine François Chidaine sits in the heart of the Touraine region. François comes from a winemaking family in the region but started from scratch with a couple of acres to build his own domaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire in 1989. This family estate has now 120 acres of vineyards and is at the forefront of ecological sensible winemaking and agriculture.

For over twenty years (certified biodynamic by Biodyvin since 1999) they practice biodynamic viticulture, soil conservation, and regenerative agriculture (implementing practices – for example: no till farming - that improve the rate at which CO2 is removed from the atmosphere and converted into plant material and soil organic matter).

60 acres in Montlouis and 25 acres in Vouvray – including the very prestigious Clos Baudoin - are planted with Chenin Blanc. It will be very interesting to taste the Chenin from those two appellations side by side. The rest – about 40 acres - are East of the Cher Valley and planted with Sauvignon Blanc, and the red varieties Pinot Noir, Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Côt, et Pineau d’Aunis. These wines are in the AOP Touraine appellation.

The portfolio de François Chidaine is vast: he produces the entire range of Loire Valley wines: whites from Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc from dry to moelleux to noble sweet to fortified, reds from autochtone grapes and international varieties, and a range of sparkling wines.

12.15 pm LUNCH and WINE

Restaurant Le Favori – 1-star Michelin in Cheverny

Guide Michelin: “In the heart of a wooded estate, this venue sets the scene for a culinary experience that is both delicate and daring under the auspices of Pierre Frindel, formerly at Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux. The chef delicately crafts local and less local produce, deploying his consummate skill and subtle creativity.”

03.15 pm Château Chambord.

Château Chambord was built by François I. in the 16th century. It is the largest and most known Loire Château and also the most unusual one. With its 400 rooms, it never served as a residential palace, but rather as an impressive backdrop for State Visits. Charles V., Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire of German Nations, commented after a stay: “an epitome of what human art can produce.”

06.30 pm Back at Novotel in Amboise.

The evening and dinner are on your own.

DAY 8: Sunday, October 12

09.40 am Leaving the hotel.

09.45 am GUIDED VISIT

Château du Clos Lucé and the Leonardo-da-Vinci Park in Amboise.

King François I. was fascinated with Leonardo da Vinci and has lured the genius to Amboise with three convincing arguments: a castle at his sole disposal, a monthly pension, and - most importantly - the promise of artistic freedom. Leonardo da Vinci spent his last three years at this château before he passed away in his bedroom on May 2, 1519.

12.30 pm LUNCH and WINE

Restaurant La Croix Blanche – Bib Gourmand Michelin.

This restaurant has a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin guide. I quote the guide:” At this former coaching inn, you can enjoy the modern cuisine of chef Jean-François Beauduin, who learned his trade in Michelin-starred restaurants. His tempting menu abounds with wonderfully indulgent treats, which does not preclude finesse – the warm duck and foie gras pâté, shredded Brussels sprouts and langoustine sauce is a case in point. Seasonal and local ingredients are de rigueur. Note the selection of more traditional dishes, such as beuchelle tourangelle (creamed kidneys and sweetbreads). Charming service courtesy of the chef's wife, in a delightfully rustic setting. The pleasant terrace in the shade of mulberry trees is a real highlight.”

03.30 pm Visit of the Château Royale d’Amboise and the Burial Place of Leonardo da Vinci.

The impressive Château Royal d’Amboise is regarded as the cradle of the Renaissance in France and French history was written here for over a century. Five kings of France resided in the Château d’Amboise. Under King Charles III. and his wife Anne of Brittany, Italian splendor and enlightened thinking unfolded here. The metamorphosis from a feudal fortress to a Renaissance palace dates back to this era and the triumpf of the Renaissance began here.

Much later, in 1560 during the religious wars an unimaginably horrific bloodbath that lasted several days occurred at the château when Catholics brutally killed hundreds of Protestants.

Worth visiting is the richly decorated jewel from the Gothic period, the St.-Hubert chapel, on the castle grounds. This is the burial site of Leonardo da Vinci.

05.45 pm Back at Novotel Amboise.

07.30 pm DINNER (beverages on your own)

Restaurant Novotel Amboise.

DAY 9: Monday, October 13

09.00 am Leaving the hotel.

Today we explore the famous Vouvray region. I found the perfect description of Vouvray on Kevin Pike’s Schatzi Wine (one of the great importers to the US of German and other European wines) website:

“Vouvray is one of the Loire’s great terroirs for Chenin Blanc. As part of the Paris basin, the soils are largely fossilized marine based. The bedrock, from which the region’s myriad historic cellars are cut, is tuffeau. The topsoils are flinty clay, limestone, gravels, and marls. The climate is marked by the tension between moderate maritime and more extreme continental influences. This, and the fact that Vouvray is traditionally one of the last parts of France to harvest, opens vignerons here to great risk - first, of severe weather, foremost hail later, of disease. The reward is a cool climate that allows both the acid edge and haunting, subtle depth of Chenin to develop to maximum potential. Multiple vineyard passes are key to producing the traditional range of style from sec to moelleux to sparkling. The wines can fall anywhere between austere and opulent, depending on the ripeness and botrytis levels of the vintage.”

The Vouvray AOP classification only allows Chenin and Pineau d’Aunis grapes.

09.30 am Visit at Domaine Pichot in Vouvray, AOP Vouvray, Touraine.

Vineyard Brands: Jean-Claude Pichot’s family is one of the oldest in Vouvray, with origins as viticulturists and restaurateurs dating back to 1739. The family cellars are located in the charming village of Vouvray, in caverns hewn from the rolling hills which were once quarried to provide stone to construct the grand châteaux of the Loire. Domaine Pichot was established in 1996, uniting the three historic vineyards of the family: Coteau de la Biche, Le Peu de la Moriette, and Le Marigny. The 60 acres of vineyards are all in Vouvray, six miles east of Tours on the right bank of the Loire River. The vines are thirty years old on average and are all of the Chenin Blanc variety. In an era when most Vouvray wines are bottled by négotiants, the stylish wines of the Pichot family continue to show the perfumed elegance of Chenin Blanc and are authentic expressions of a particular terrain, climate, cellar, and the winemaker’s art.

11.15 am Visit at Domaine Carême in Vernou-sur-Brenne, AOP Vouvray.

Situated in the heart of Vouvray, Domaine Carême is the mastermind of the young and dynamic Carême couple. The estate currently spans 37 acres with different blocks spread over three villages: Vouvray, Vernou-sur-Brenne and Noizay. Most of the blocks are on steep slopes overlooking the Loire valley with two of them, Le Clos (meaning an enclosed vineyard) and Le Peu Morier, being vinified separately to express their unique terroirs. All of Domaine Carême's wines are certified organic from 2010 onwards by Ecocert.

This is one of the top domains in Vouvray. The vineyards have the classic Vouvray terroir: limestone bedrock and superficial flint (Silex in French), and some limestone mixed with fine clay.

01.00 pm LUNCH (beverages on your own)

Restaurant Le Val Joli in Vouvray.

This is a traditional, typical French village restaurant in the heart of the small town of Vouvray with a reliable country cuisine.

03.15 pm GUIDED VISIT

Château Chenonceau

It is the most elegant, most endearing of all the Loire castles. It stretches gracefully across the Cher River, a tributary of the Loire River. Originally it was a mill. The war treasurer of King François I. ordered the castle to be built in 1513. Six women played an important role in the architecture and decoration of the château, the most famous is Diana de Poitier. In 1547 it became the residence of Diana de Poitier, the mistress of Henry II, husband of Katharina de Medici. Chenonceau is one of the few privately owned castles. Since 1913 owner is the family of the chocolate manufacturer Menier.

05.30 pm Back at Novotel in Amboise.

07.00 pm DINNER (beverages on your own)

Restaurant Le Parvis in Amboise.

DAY 10: Tuesday, October 14

Today we were travelling south-east to the Centre region. Crispy, gorgeous Sauvignon-Blanc is produced here as well as fantastic reds from grapes such as Pinot Noir, and Gamay. In Sancerre we find the famous silex soils, on the western side of the Loire River, in Pouilly-sur-Loire we find Kimmeridgian that we know from Chablis, which gives the wines a broader, more mellow character. We will figure out the differences between “Sancerre” and “Pouilly-Fumé”. On the way to Sancerre we stop in Menetou-Salon, a rather unknown appellation to the casual Loire wine drinker producing fantastic Sauvignon-Blanc and Pinot Noir, quality-wise equal to Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. When France introduced the AOC classification system, another -now an under-the-radar appellation in this area -Quincy- was the first appellation in France granted the AOC (today AOP) designation in 1936.

08.30 am Check-out at hotel and departure.

10.45 pm Visit at Domaine Pellé in Morogues, Centre.

This domain has a 100 year long history of being involved in wine and winemaking in the village of Morogue, some 30 minutes west of Sancerre. Today it is Paul-Henry Pellé, who is the winemaker just like his great-grandfather, grandfather, and father. Paul-Henry's grandfather, in fact, played an instrumental role in the establishment of the appellation and lobbied hard to include "Morogues" on the label, which he felt essential since it is unique in its high percentage of Kimmeridgian soils. When Paul-Henry took over he immediately started to convert to organic viticulture. The 100 acres of vineyards are exclusively planted with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir and are situated in the Menetou-Salon appellation, the Morogues appellation and in the Sancerre appellation. The soils are characterized by Kimmeridgian loamy limestone, flint, and fossil deposits. I quote Arrowine in Arlington VA: “we invite you to discover these distinctive, mineral-laden whites and reds from this under-the-radar appellation, Menetou-Salon, and from one of its true masters, Domaine Pellé.”

01.00 pm LUNCH and WINE

Restaurant Au Bon Laboreur in Menetou-Râtel.

This is a charming restaurant offering delicious comfort food made with fresh local ingredients. There is an extensive wine list filled with top-quality wines that are more than reasonably priced, almost a steal in some cases. The restaurant was recommend by Clément Berthier.

03.00 pm Visit at Vignobles Berthier in Saint Gemme.

This domaine is now in the hands of the fifth generation of the Berthier family, brothers Clément and Florian Berthier. The vineyards stretch across the Loire river, from one side to the other, from Menetou-Salon, Sancerre to the Côteaux du Giennois, Pouilly-Fumé.

The vineyards are planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Gamay. They produce whites in the Sancerre and Côteaux du Giennois appellations and a single varietal Pinot Noir and a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. The domaine is certified organic and also uses biodynamic practices.

The little known Côteaux du Giennois appellation is a very good choice when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc wines: a very good and less pricey alternative to Sancerre.

06.30 pm Check-in at Le Panoramic Hôtel in Sancerre.

Le Panoramic Hôtel in Sancerre, a wonderful, recently completely renovated 4 star hotel with breathtaking views over the Sancerre vineyards and a stone’s throw from charming old town of Sancerre.

The best lookout-point over the vineyards of Sancerre and Chavignol is from your window in your room!

07.30 pm Light Dinner at Le Panoramic Hôtel

The rest of the day is on your own. Enjoy a stroll through old town Sancerre, a very charming medieval town perched on top of a hill.

There was no tour-dinner. Some of us went to the main square of old town Sancerre for dinner, others stayed at the hotel.

DAY 11: Wednesday, October 15

Today we continued to explore Sancerre proper.

Almost all of the appellations of Sancerre lie on the left bank of the Loire, opposite Pouilly-Fumé, in the eastern-most part of the Loire Valley. Sancerre is well regarded for and primarily associated with Sauvignon Blanc, making wines of great purity and elegance. Pinot Noir is also grown, accounting for around 20% of the region's production. A rosé style from Pinot noir is also produced.

The focus of Sancerre winemakers is usually to express the pure fruit flavors of Sauvignon Blanc and the natural terroir of the region. Here we find the famous Silex soils: Silex is a type of sedimentary soil that is rich with flint. In fact, silex is the English word for flint. Silex is basically a harder limestone soil and can have an almost metallic look. Sancerre wines tend to have very little interaction with oak, instead spending most of their fermentation and aging period in large stainless steel fermentation tanks. However, since the late 20th century some producers have begun experimenting with some degree of oak fermentation or aging.

08.30 am Leaving the hotel

09.00 am Visit of Domaine Alphons Mellot in Sancerre.

The Domaine Alphonse Mellot was founded in 1513. Alphonse Mellot sen. is the 18th generation of the vintner family in Sancerre. He took over the domaine La Moussière in 1970 and was the driving force in the transformation of the family winery towards the focus on top quality. With conversion to biodynamic viticulture he went much further than other domains in the region at that time. The domaine is certified biodynamic since 1999.

Today the 16th generation -Alphonse Mellot jun.- runs the domain. The winery sits in the middle of the town of Sancerre and occupies a maze of medieval cellars right under the town center, some date from the 15th century. The vineyard area is about 140 acres with a single plot of 75 acres of “La Moussière”, considered the best in Sancerre, solely owned by Mellot. “La Moussière” sits on a large block of Kimmeridgian soil whereas “La Demoiselle” sits on silex soils. There are also 33 acres of Pinot Noir and more vineyards (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) on the IGP Côtes de la Charité.

Domaine Alphonse Mellot is an iconic producer in Sancerre and that was recognized by the King of France, Louis XIV. long before our times. He named César Mellot as his personal wine advisor in 1698.

11.00pm Visit at Domaine Delaporte in Chavignol.

The domaine is located in the heart of the Sancerre region, in the small hamlet of Chavignol.

Domaine Delaporte is a family winery which has been passed from father to son since the 17th century. Today, it is Matthieu Delaporte, who manages the estate. He has undertaken major measures to improve the wine quality: tillage without herbicides, reduced yields and vinification in barrels. From 2020, the estate has embarked on the conversion process to organic farming. With fifty different plots, the terroir of the domain is diverse, from silex to the limestone and kimmeridgian loam soils. The white Sancerre Chavignol from Domaine Delaporte is a Sauvignon Blanc whose vines are 35 years old and grow on south facing slopes ensuring ripe, mature grapes. The most prominent vineyard site in Chavignol is the “Côté des Monts Damnés (The Damned Mountain)” a plot with quite steep and rugged slopes. The Delaporte family is the only producer in the region to produce a Pinot Noir from the walled clos - Cul de Beaujeu, on the famous Monts Damnés hillside.

01.30 pm LUNCH (beverages on your own)

Restaurant Au p`tit Gouter in Chavignol

This is an excellent, very small, simple restaurant in a medieval building right at the main square of the tiny hamlet of Chavignol. There is no central heating and in winter times the beautiful old fireplace is enough to make you feel warm and cosy. They have an excellent wine list of Sancerre wines written on a black board.

Chavignol is renowned for its goat cheese: the Crottin de Chavignol, which tastes totally different depending on the stage of ripeness.

03.30 pm Visit of of Domaine Régis Minet in Pouilly-sur-Loire

In 2021, Régis handed the reigns of the domaine to his stepdaughter, Lucia Mineur-Billet, who was out of town. Our hosts were Régis Minet, Nathalie Minet, the mother of Lucia, and Bruno Mineur, the father of Lucia. We started in the tank cellar with a tasting from tank, followed by a tasting from bottle in the tasting room.

Nathalie Minet

plays a crucial, behind-the-scenes role at Domaine Régis Minet, handling various administrative, communication, and commercial tasks. She was also a significant factor in her daughter Lucia Mineur-Billet's decision to return to the domaine to take over management. Her first husband and father of Lucia, Bruno Mineur, helps his daughter occasionally.

Domaine Régis Minet is represented in the USA by Kermit Lynch.

Domaine Régis Minet - Kermit Lynch

One could easily consider Régis Minet the Loire Valley’s answer to an action hero. He may play it cool on the outside, but at closer look, one sees a man of brooding intensity on an insatiable quest for adventure. It may just be in the blood. His grandfather, Robert Minet, was an artisan tonnelier, or barrel-maker. At the beginning of the last century, Robert kept a mere three hectares of vines in the eastern Loire town of Pouilly-sur-Loire—just enough to make the family’s wine. He, too, was very independent, living autonomously off his own livestock and fresh vegetables from his farm. When he passed away in 1976, Régis left his studies to continue the work of the domaine without giving it a second thought. Since then, he has made this tiny farm a full-time domaine, and has succeeded in adding an additional eight hectares of vineyards to the holdings. It is certain that his love of his native terroir translates into his wines, although one sees it in many other aspects of his character as well. Watching him fervently serve a plate of crottins de chevre to guests, seeing his latest fossilized finds after a day of diving into the bottom of the Loire River, or watching him tinker with his motorcycle after an epic ride is proof enough that Régis shares both his grandfather’s rogue-ishness and love of the land.

Pouilly-sur-Loire produces one of the greatest Sauvignon Blancs in the world. Régis’ vineyards sit at 750 feet, surrounded by hills on the far east of the Loire River, and centered proudly on the prized limestone and clay of the Kimmeridgian chain. The scattered flint in these vineyards imbues the wines with a character quite distinctive from the neighboring village of Sancerre. In the eloquent words of KLWM Store Manager, Steve Waters, “You couldn’t ask for a cleaner, fresher, flintier, or truer expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Its mouth-watering acidity, depth of flavor, and fleshy texture will have you racing back for more.”

In 2021 Régis handed the reigns of the domaine to his stepdaughter, Lucia Mineur-Billet. Régis and Lucia are both ready and excited for this new chapter in the estate's history!

07.30 pm WINE PAIRING DINNER

Restaurant Le Clos du Maréchal in Sancerre.

This is a great little restaurant well hidden in the maze of the narrow streets and alleys of Sancerre.

Owner/Chef Nathanael Fromant labels his place as Restaurant Bistronomique, a place which offers an upscale cuisine, prepared with fresh, quality, local products, while at the same time maintains the relaxed and friendly atmosphere typical of bistros.

DAY 12: Thursday, October 16

08.45 am Check-out at hotel and drive to Paris.

12.30 pm LUNCH and WINE

Brasserie La Coupole in Montparnasse, Paris

La Coupole is a historic Montparnasse café / restaurant (and an official French historic monument), which opened in 1927. This huge restaurant is a temple of Art Déco. It still symbolizes the “roaring twenties”.

End of wine tour. La Coupole is the final destination of our tour.