I grew up with apple wine (hard cider) in Frankfurt am Main, Germany.
Although until not so long ago there
were 3 beer breweries in Frankfurt am Main and the world renowned Rheingau and
Rheinhessen wine regions are just 30 minutes away from Frankfurt am Main by S-Bahn
or car, Frankfurt am Main is a city of apple wine - hard cider.
Frankfurt am Main has a large number of traditional apple wine taverns
(Apfelweinwirtschaft), where you sit on communal benches, eat hearty
local food and drink sour and tart German apple wine. Typically, there
is only one apple wine – the house apple wine – available.
Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
German apple wine has an alcohol content of 4%–9% and a tart, sour
taste. Traditionally, it is not bubbly. Arguably, the capital of German
apple wine is Frankfurt am Main.
In Frankfurt, much of the apple wine is consumed at the wooden,
communal tables in the local apple wine taverns with hearty local food,
like Green Sauce (made from 7 herbs and yogurt accompanied by boiled
eggs and boiled potatoes), Rippchen mit Kraut und Brot (grilled pork,
sauerkraut and bread). It is served in a Geripptes, a glass with a
lozenge cut that refracts light. A filled Geripptes is called a
Schoppen. If you drink more than a glass or are in a group, you
typically order a Bembel (a specific Apfelwein jug). The different
sizes of a Bembel are designated after their contents in glasses from
4-er to 10-er Bembel.
Apple wine did not gain popularity in Hessen until the 16th century. By
the mid-19th century, 12 large commercial apple-wineries existing in
Frankfurt, along with hundreds of small or private apple-wineries.
Today, over 60 large and small commerical apple-wineries exist in
Hessen, producing 1,040 million gallons (40 million liters) annually.
Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main
The apple wine tavern (Apfelweinwirtschaft) is as distinctive a
Frankfurt institution as the Bierkeller is of Munich or the Weinstube of
Mainz. Many of the best-known establishments are concentrated in
Sachsenhausen, but others are dotted all over the city. They are
strongly traditional. They offer hearty local cuisine, usually at
moderate prices.
Munich has the beer taverns, Mainz has the wine taverns and Frankfurt has the apple wine taverns.
For my favorite apple wine taverns, see here:
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
For an occasional visitor, the various apple wine taverns do not differ that much one from
another. For the locals who are frequent visitors, there are differences.
Back in Frankfurt for 10 days during January and February 2023, I went to 4 apple wine taverns: Apfelwein Solzer in Bornheim, Buchscheer in Sachsenhausen, Daheim in der Affentorschänke in Sachsenhausen and Desche Otto in Schwanheim.
Apfelwein Solzer
Five generations have been running the Apfelwein Solzer since the Solzer family took over this tradional apple wine tavern back in 1893.
Located at the end of the Berger Strasse in Bornheim, a northern suburb, Apfelwein Solzer is a reference for Frankfurt am Main, a mainstream, inexpensive, tradional apple wine tavern.
Annette loves their Green Sauce, with the 7 distinctive herbs hand-chopped.
I went there to watch a Eintracht Frankfurt soccer game as Apfelwein Solzer as a large number of TV screens showing all games of Eintracht Frankfurt.
I went there before having dinner with friends a Chairs, which is near-by:
Dinner at Chairs, Frankfurt, Germany - 2 White Toques Gault/ Millau, Nose-to-tail Fine Dining, Natural Wines, Casual Atmosphere
Buchscheer
Buchscheer is located in Sachsenhausen, a bit off the beaten track near the Frankfurter Stadtwald (Frankfurt City Forest) and not in the main part of Sachsenhausen. As a result, you rarely meet tourists or business visitors there, only locals.
The part of Sachsenhausen where the Buchscheer is located is an area where you tend to find better educated and higher income class people. The clientel of the Buchscheer reflects this. This is an important factor for your choice of an apple wine tavern as you sit at communal tables and converse with other people you meet just for that evening.
In the old days, the apple wine taverns would make their own apple wine on the premises.
This has changed dramatically. The Buchscheer is one of the few remaining apple wine taverns in Frankfurt that still make the apple wine they pour on the premisses. During harvest there are often large piles of apples waiting to be pressed.
The food, though very traditional, is a tick better than in many other apple wine taverns, such as Apfelwein Solzer.
Annette and I go to the Buchscheer often. I always have the Steak Tartare Classic, as I did this time.
See also:
Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt am Main, Germany – The Traditional Way: Apple Wine Made on the Premises
Daheim in der Affentor Schänke
Daheim in der Affentor Schänke is the sister apple wine tavern of Daheim im Lorsbacher Thal, both centrally located in Old Town Sachsenhausen. Daheim im Lorsbacher Thal dates back to 1803. In 2014, after some years in difficulty, it re-opened under new ownership (Pia and Frank Winkler, Jürgen Henne) and with a new concept. 4 years later, the Daheim in der Affentor Schänke was added.
Both tavern were decorated with historical family photos, art, books, magazines, games, lots of candles and cushions, with a view of providing a relaxed atmosphere in a charming setting.
Unusually, Daheim im Lorsbacher Thal offers hard cider in bottles from all over Germany and around the world totalling 300 bottles. This reflccts the fact that the new owners are hard-core apple wine aficionados. Daheim in der Affentor Schänke has considerably less but still a large number of hard ciders by the bottle and also an extensive and excellent wine list, covering Germany and France. The latter is something very unusual for an apple wine tavern. Most of the apple wine taverns in Frankfurt do not serve any wine.
Overall, everything - food, the apple wine, the guests - is less basic and more sophisticated here.
Desche Otto
Mainlust "Desche-Otto", owned and run by the husband/ wife couple Claudia and Louie, is a basic, traditional apple wine tavern, with an innovative twist. For many years, it was run and owned by Otto Desch, hence the name. It opened in 1890.
It is in walking distance from where
I live in Frankfurt am Main. At times, I go there every day, sometimes just for one glass of apple wine, sometimes until late in the evening. The French would call it my "cantine". And it is even more the cantine of my wife Annette.
In the “Schankstube” (Barroom) there are 7 tables for 8 to 10 people. On the wall, there is a picture of Chancellor Bismarck, which probably has been hanging there since the days when Bismarck was Chancellor. In addition, there is a nice and cosy garden restaurant, which is open during the summer months until 10 p.m.
The food is typical apple wine tavern food. However, Mainlust "Desche Otto" is member of the "Slow Food Association" and Chef Michel used to cook in Michelin-starred restaurants.
There are no tourists or business visitors at Desche Otto, only locals, mostly from Schwanheim. And only a special group of locals. Many locals prefer the apple wine tavern "Seppchen" near by, where the food is not at the same level as here, but also pricewise at a lower level, more at the Apfelwein Solzer level.
Louie likes Schnaps very much and has assembled an amazing selection of
different Schnaps. You can choose from over 100 different brandies. I
have seen that many guests like to finish the evening with one – or two
or even more – of the Schnaps Louie has to offer.
Louie also is a wine lover and he has an impressive selection of wines in his cellar. Many of them are not on his wine list. I often drink wine here and Annette sparkling wine .
Every other week or so, the place rocks and rolls. Claudia and Louie like music and have a concert series there.
See also:
Mainlust “Desche Otto” – an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative
Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany
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