The Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours took place from June 20 - June 29, 2022. The group comprised 10 wine lovers including Annette and Christian
Schiller.
This posting provides an overview. I am also issuing separate
postings covering individual events, including visits of wineries and
special lunches and dinners. See the list of postings at the end of
the article.
Annette Schiller in her Announcement
Join us as we explore in detail the wines of the Rhône Valley. We
start in vibrant, cool, sophisticated Lyon, the capital of Haut Cuisine.
We stop in the Northern Rhône where names such as Côte Rôtie,
Crozes-Hermitage make us crave a glass of wine. We follow the eponymous
Rhône river south to Avignon, the city that was the seat of the papacy
for the better part of the 14th century. We stop in Châteauneuf du Pape.
We do a side-kick to the gorgeous Dentelles de Montmirail where we find
the wines of Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Séguret, and the sweet wines of
Rasteau. The southern Rhône belongs to Provence. Provence: this
immediately ignites a deep yearning for the fragrance coming from
Lavender fields, for the special light the Impressionist artists
masterfully captured in their paintings, for a very special "savoir
vivre", and for the dark red, fruity, spicy wines. This year we travel
during the height of the flowering season and we will experience a sea
of purple Lavender fields.
- We will visit a total of 18 Domaines in well-known appellations such as Côte Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, Châteauneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueras, etc.
- We will get intimate insights into the world of the Rhone Valley wines with visits to famous Domaines, but also to excellent lesser known and unknown producers.
- We will see the beautiful terraced vineyard sites clinging to the slopes of the steep mountains in the Northern Rhône.
- We will explore the fascinating history of the region and its importance for wine production and wine trad
- We will visit medieval villages and historic landmarks from Roman times.
- We will have meals at beautiful, quaint French village restaurants typical for the region.
- We will dine at exquisite gourmet restaurants worthy of a Michelin star.
- We will travel through incredibly beautiful landscapes, which have been made immortal by the paintings of the Impressionist artists.
- We will do a guided tour of the Papal Palace in Avignon.
- We will experience genuine French hospitality and the Provence "savoir-vivre".
- We will have wine pairing luncheons or dinners in an intimate setting at different Domaines which we share with the proprietors / general managers and/or winemakers.
The Rhône Valley is one of the oldest wine regions in France, and the second largest after Bordeaux. The Greeks introduced viticulture in the 4th century BC. Later the Romans came and brought viticulture to a different level. Since then the world has discovered Rhône wines and some of the most famous wines come from the Rhône Valley. The vineyards are located on both sides of the river. The Rhône Valley is divided into two distinctively different regions: the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône. The Northern Rhône stretches for 60 miles from Vienne – south of Lyon – to Valence, and produces just 5% of Rhône wines. The region has a continental climate with pronounced seasons. The soils are granitic and schistous and the vineyards are located on very steep terraced slopes. The red grape of the Northern Rhône is 100% Syrah. Depending on the appellation the red wines are often blended with 5 – 20% of the white varietals Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne. As the Rhône river flows southward and the valley widens the climate changes. It becomes more Mediterranean with long, warm summers and mild winters. Here we find the big brother of the Northern Rhône, the Southern Rhône wine region which accounts for 95% of the production and with Grenache being the principal variety in most red wine blends. There also is Syrah, Mourvèdre, ( “GSM” blends) and a variety of other red and white grapes. The landscape is much flatter than in the north and a variety of soils can be found: alluvial soils, limestone subsoils, sand, gravel, stones. We will taste the entire range of Rhône wines: reds, whites, rosé, sweet, fortified wines. And of course we will have a special focus on the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape region with its very special terroir of the 'gales' huge pepples that give the soil its distinctive character. It is so difficult to choose which wine estate to visit since there are many great producers. We selected top estates of different price points, from top-rated well-known expensive wines to budget friendly, excellent, unknown wines of small producers.
Southern Rhône Valley/ Provence
The Provence largely corresponds with the modern administrative région
of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur and extends from the left bank of the
lower Rhône River to the west to the Italian border to the east. The
largest city of the region is Marseille.
The Romans made the region into the first Roman province beyond the Alps
and called it Provincia Romana, which evolved into the present name. It
was ruled by the Counts of Provence from their capital in
Aix-en-Provence until 1481, when it became a province of the Kings of
France.
Accommodation:
Night 1: Monday, June 20 Grand Hôtel des Terreaux in Lyon, a 4 star Art-Deco hotel in the heart of Old Lyon, the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It combines the atmosphere of an old-fashioned 19th century town house with a modern, innovative décor. It also has a small indoor pool and hot tub.
Night 2: Tuesday, June 21 Hôtel Beau Rivage in Condrieu, an old school 4 star hotel with an exquisite restaurant sitting on the banks of the Rhône river with gorgeous views over the water and towards the famous Condrieu vineyards.
Night 3: Wednesday, June 22 Hôtel Fac & Spera in Tain-Hermitage, a 4 star fitness and spa hotel – just beautifully renovated - belonging to Maison Chaputier situated in the center of town at the foot of the famous Hermitage vineyards and just 200m from the banks of the Rhône river.
Nights 4 + 5: Thursday, June 23 and Friday, June 24 Hôtel Le Pradet in Vacqueyras, a 3 star recently completely renovated hotel owned by a wonderful couple with excellent wine knowledge. The view of the famous Dentelles de Montmirail, the calm atmosphere and the great outdoor swimming pool hidden in a quiet garden surrounded by cypress trees give it a true Provençal feeling.
Night 6: Saturday, June 25 Hôtel Le Mas de L’Ouliviés in Les Baux, a 4 star traditional Provençal country house style hotel sitting in the center of an olive grove at the foot of the rocky, steep slopes of the village of Les Baux de Provence. The beautifully landscaped pool invites for a relaxing swim.
Nights 7 + 8: Sunday, June 26 and Monday, June 27 Hôtel Mercure, Pont d’Avignon in Avignon, a 4 star very modern hotel in an ideal location. The famous sites – the Pont d’Avignon and the Palais des Papes, as well as restaurants, shops, wine bars, and the city wall are just steps away.
Night 9: Tuesday, June 28 Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a 5 star exquisite castle hotel. Approaching the hotel takes your breath away. The medieval and Provencal fantasy style castle was built in the 19th century. It sits high on a hill overlooking the Châteauneuf du Pape vineyards, with gorgeous views to the town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and as far as to Avignon and the Luberon in the distance.
ITINERARY
Day 0: SUNDAY, June 21
Most of the participants arrived on the day before the tour started. Some of us liked to have a glass of wine and some cheese and charcuterie at the little place just next to the hotel, the Broc Bar.
Day 1: MONDAY June 22
02.00 pm Meeting in the Lobby of Grand Hôtel des Terreaux for an Introdution by Annette Schiller
03.30 pm Guided Traboule (Secret Passage) Tour of Lyon
There
are about 500 traboules in more than 230
of Lyon’s streets. Those of Vieux-Lyon are home to treasures of the
Renaissance and those of the Croix-Rousse, more recent, date mostly from
the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
7.30 pm Dinner at Grand Café des Négociants in Lyon
Created in 1864, the « Grand Café des Négociants » settles in Lyon’s History. It keeps throughout time
its Second Empire decor characterized by its moulded and painted
ceilings, its splendid opulent curtains and its numerous mirrors, all in
burgundy and mahogany monochrome that give it a warm ambiance.
Day 2: TUESDAY June 21
08.45 am Check-out at hotel, departure from Lyon, and short drive to the Côte Rôtie
09.30 am Cellar Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour at Maison Guigal in Ampuis, Côte Rôtie, Northern Rhône
Following an afternoon in Lyon, we spent 21/2 days in the Northern Rhône region. Our first stop was the famous and large producer Guigal in Ampuis in the Côte-Rôtie.
Though Guigal is situated in the Northern Rhône it produces wine from appellations across the Rhône region, but is particularly noted for their Côte-Rôtie wines. We spent the whole morning at the Guigal estate learning a lot about the Northern Rhône and the Côte Rôtie. The visit had three parts.
First, we started with a tour of the large winemaking
facilities Ampuis. Second, to get you a feel for the Côte Rôtie we took a
trip through the
vineyards to see the Côte Blonde and Côte Brune as far as our bus could
negotiate the serpentine small roads. Finally, we went to the famous
Château d’Ampuis for a tasting.
13.15 pm Lunch at Le Bistro de Serine in
Ampuis, Northern
Rhône
This is a simple village lunch hang-out for locals and the occasional tourist alike. The owners also have a wine store next door with a fabulous selection of Rhône wines.
03.30pm Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine de Boisseyt in Chavany, Northern Rhône
The
visit of Domaine de Boisseyt in Chavany, Northern Rhône, had three
parts. First, we walked over to the wine making facilities. Second, we
sat down in the modern tasting room for a tasting. Third, we drove by
bus to the vineyards and spent some time there.
05.45 pm Arrival and Check-in at Hôtellerie Beau Rivage in Condrieu, Northern Rhône
07.30 pm Wine-pairing Dinner at Hôtellerie Restaurant Beau Rivage in Condrieu
We arrived in the later after at Hôtellerie Beau Rivage in Condrieu, where we had a gourmet wine-pairing dinner at the exquisite restaurant of Hôtel Beau Rivage.and stayed for the night.
Chef Ludovic Mounier is well known beyond the boundaries of the Northern Rhône. This elegant restaurant features an innovative cuisine with classic top regional products.
Day 3: WEDNESDAY June 22
10.00 am Tasting at Vins Jean-Luc Colombo with Anne Colombo in Cornas, Northern Rhône
"Jean-Luc Colombo has become one of the stars of Cornas. Well-known as
an oenologist for dozens of Rhone Valley clients, Colombo has had a
positive influence in the Rhone, undoubtedly improving the quality of
many estate's wines. As for his own wines, there are usually three
cuvees of Cornas. In ascending order of quality they are: Les Terres
Brulees, Les Ruchets (from a specific vineyard), and La Louvee (formerly
known as cuvee JLC) ." (Wine Advocate)
This was a wine tasting only. We were joined by Anne Colombo, the wife of Jean Luc, herself an oenologists, who moved with Jean-Luc to Cornas in 1982.
11.15 am Visit and Tasting at Domaine du Tunnel with Owner/ Winemaker Stéphane Robert in Saint-Peray, Northern Rhône
While we were there, they were in the process of bottling. Still, Stéphane Robert gave us some time for a tasting and a visit of the "tunnel", i.e. the winemaking facilities. We started by tasting 5 wines and then moved to the tunnel.
It was in 1994 when Stéphane Robert founded the Domaine du Tunnel with just 6 acres of vineyards in Saint-Peray and Cornas. This is an area in the southern tip of the right bank of the Northern Rhône wine region, famous through history and in France for making particularly excellent white wines and of course red wines.
Since then Stéphane Robert has forged a reputation as one of the leading wine producers of this region.
01.30 pm Lunch at restaurant Le Quai in Tain-l’Hermitage
The restaurant has a Bib Gourmand mention in the Michelin Guide. This is what the guide says: “You could stay on this quayside for hours admiring the Rhône and its vineyards. It has a cruise liner - style terrace and bright dining room. Generous, carefully presented cuisine ranging from traditional to brasserie - style dishes”.
03.00 pm Check-in at Hôtel Fac & Spera de l’Hermitage in Tain-l’Hermitage, Northern Rhône
03.45 pm Visit of the Hermitage Vineyard and Tasting at Paul Jaboulet Aîné in Tain-l’Hermitage, Hermitage, Northern Rhône
Paul Jaboulet Aîné is the smallest of the big négociants businesses of the Rhône region. Jaboulet is a great old name and one of the historic estates in the Rhône.
06.15 pm Back to the Hotel
In the evening, some of us strolled along the banks of the Rhône river and crossed the bridge to Tournon-sur-Rhône on the other side of the Rhône. From there we had a fantastic view of the hills with the Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage vineyards.
Day 4: THURSDAY, June 23
09.30 am Tasting and Cellar Tour with Owner/ Winemaker David Reynaud at Domaine Les Bruyères in Beaumont-Monteux, Northern Rhône
Domaine Les Bruyères has been in the Reynaud family since the 18th century. In 1955, Georges Reynaud planted vines on a gentle slope along the Isère River –a Rhône tributary - in the southern sector of the Crozes-Hermitage appellation. The grapes were sold to the cooperative.
In 2003 George’s grandson David took over. He constructed modern wine making facilities, and produced his first vintage. He also bought new vineyards bringing the domaine up to 50 acres under vine. Before his ownership in 2003 David already controlled the domaine and had started to farm organically, so the domaine was certified by Ecocert the same year as his first harvest. He then converted slowly to biodynamic principles and Domaine Les Bruyères received its Biodyvin certification in 2005.
David Reynaud and his wife were our hosts. A major construction project is currently going on at Domaine Les Bruyères. We started the visit with a quite extensive tasting of the Domaine Les Bruyères portfolio and then toured the wine cellar.
12.00 pm Lunch at Maison Chabran - La Grand Table with Chef Louis Chabran and his Father Chef Michel Chabran in Pont d l’Isère, Northern Rhône
We had lunch at Maison Chabran - La Grande Table. This restaurant has been a French institution for decades. Since 1977, the restaurant had been Michelin-starred, until 2000 even with 2 stars. In the Michelin Guide 2023, they withdrew the star.
Until recently, Maison Chabran was run and owned by Michel Chabran. A few years ago, he started to step back and to hand over to his son Louis Chabran. Chef Louis Chabran is now fully in charge. As it often happens during such father-to-son transfers, the Michelin Guide withdraws the star or stars.
We started lunch in the beautiful garden area with a glass of Champagne and an Amuse Gueule. We then moved to the dining room for lunch with regional wines. One of the highlights was the impressive cheese tray at the end the lunch.
Louis was in the kitchen, Ms. Chabran in charge of the service and Michel Chabran meet us when we left the restaurant.This is a truly beautiful place. When you approach the restaurant you see a façade with different ochre hues that enhance the traditional pebbles of the Rhône river. You enter and you find an elegant dining room, decked out in sunshine colours, an open fireplace, a garden with many different flower and herb beds - that Michel loves to show you after a meal -, patios and a sumptuous wine cellar. And then there is the exquisite cuisine that draws on excellent products every season in the Dauphiné and Provençal traditions.
04.15 pm Tasting at Domaine Chaume-Arnaud with Owner/ Winemaker Valérie Chaume-Arnaud in Vinsobres, Southern Rhône
The stop at Domaine Chaume-Arnaud with Owner/ Winemaker Valérie Chaume-Arnaud in Vinsobres was our first event in the Southern Rhône. It was a tasting only.
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, a young and vibrant couple. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar. This is a traditional mixed farming estate. Olive trees, cereals, and tomatoes keep the vines company.
Until 1956 there were more olive trees in the communes of Vinsobres and St-Maurice than vines until one night in February when a terrible frost killed all olive trees and the focus shifted to the vines.
At Domaine Chaume-Arnaud farming was always done in harmony with nature, a herd of sheep was always in sight since they were an important component of the holistic management of fields, groves, and vineyards. Since 2003 the estate is farmed according to biodynamic principles. Since 2009 all products have been AB (Agriculture Biologique) and Demeter certified. I quote the Chaume-Arnaud family: ”Over the years, we have noticed that not only are our soils more lively, but our vines are more vigorous, and our wines have evolved towards a more harmonious balance”.
Today they have 85 acres of vineyards situated in and around Vinsobres – which is one of the nine “Cru” of the Southern Rhône - and St-Maurice on a magnificent terroir of calcareous and stony soil with southern exposure facing Mont Ventoux. Yields are kept low, and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines are around 30 years old, some going up to 65 years for the Vinsobres cuvée. The red wines are made from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre for the AOP; Caladoc, Syrah, merlot for the IGP. The whites are madse from Marsanne, Rousanne, and Viognier for the AOPs, and Chenin, Chasselas, and Vermentino for the IGP.
07.30 pm Arrival at Hôtel Le Pradet in Vacqueyras, Southern Rhône.
We enjoyed the tranquility and beauty of this Provencal manor house before dinner at the hotel.
08.00 pm Light Cold Dinner of Cheese and Charcuterie at Hôtel Le Pradet in Vacqueyras, Southern Rhône
Good night.
Day 5: FRIDAY, June 24
09.00 am Departure
We admired the stunning Dentelles de Montmirail, a jagging mountain range visible from afar.
09.30 am Vineyard Tour, Cellar Visit and Tasting with Alexandra Berthet-Rayne at Domaine André Berthet-Rayne in Cairanne, Southern Rhône
At Domaine André Berthet-Rayne, the passion for winemaking has been passed down for five generations.
The story began in 1880, when the great-grandfather owned several plots of land from which he farmed 6 hectares of vineyards, several olive groves.
Paul Berthet-Rayne, the father of André, subsequently grew this winemaking tradition. Through his work, the domaine’s vineyard and production grew substantially.
Today, André, his wife Marina and their daughter and son-in-law Alexandra and Axel, continue the work carried out with passion by their ancestors.
The Domaine has 75 acres under vine in the commune of Cairanne; some vineyards are planted with very old vines, some of which are a century old. Here you find a mixture of the different grape varieties found in the Rhône Valley. The terroir contains clayey, calcareous soils with a stony surface that enables good drainage.
Alexandra
Berthet-Rayne was our host. We started the visit with a vineyard tour,
followed by a tour of the winemaking facilities. The visit ended with a
seated tasting in the wine cellar.
12.30 pm Lunch in Gigondas
03.15 pm Tasting the Wines of Château de Beaucastel at Domaine du Clos des Tourelles in Gigondas with Alexandre Fréguin, UK Best Sommelier 2018
When Annette Schiller and I met Matthieu Perrin of Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, at the Veritable Groupe Show in Frankfurt 2021, we discussed with him the possibility of visit of Château de Beaucastel during the Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours. Unfortunately, as it turned out, a visit of Château de Beaucastel was not possible in 2022 because of a major ongoing construction project.
Instead,
Matthieu proposed a tasting of Château de Beaucastel wines at Domaine
du Clos des Tourelles, also owned by the Perrin family, in Gigondas, led
by Alexandre Fréguin, Sommelier at the Michelin-starred L'Oustalet Restaurant (UK Best Sommelier), also in Gigondas and also owned by the Perrin family.
Annette like the idea and also included a gourmet wine-pairing dinner with Alexandre Fréguin at the L'Oustalet Restaurant in the Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, following in the evening the tasting at Domaine du Clos des Tourelles in the afternoon.
So, we ended up having an outstanding tasting of Château de Beaucastel wines at Domaine du Clos des Tourelles in Gigondas led by Alexandre Fréguin, Sommelier at the Michelin-starred L'Oustalet Restaurant (UK Best Sommelier), followed in the evening by gourmet wine-pairing dinner with Alexandre Fréguin at the L'Oustalet Restaurant.
05.30 pm Back at Hôtel Le Pradet to relax before dinner tonight
07.30 pm Wine-pairing Dinner at Restaurant L’Oustalet, 1 Star Michelin, in Gigondas, with Owner-chef Laurent Deconinck and Alexandre Fréguin, UK Best Sommelier 2018
We had 2 events with Alexandre Fréguin (UK Best Sommelier 2018) in Gigondas.
First, we spent the afternoon with him at Domaine du Clos des Tourelles having an outstanding tasting of Château de Beaucastel wines.
Second, in the evening we enjoyed a gourmet wine-pairing dinner with Alexandre Fréguin at the Michelin-starred L'Oustalet Restaurant, where he is the head sommelier.
In this wine-producing village, this pretty stone house, with a terrace that looks on to a small square dotted with old plane trees, provides the attractive backdrop for pleasing cuisine featuring supremely fresh ingredients, delicious and refined recipes, and astute combinations of flavours on a single menu served in several stages.
Laurent Deconinck, the owner-chef, is a master at satisfying guests’ tastebuds, accompanied by efficient and flowing service, and a cellar full of wonderful surprises.
Thanks Alexandre for taking the selfie in the kitchen.
Day 6: SATURDAY, June 25
09.00 am Visit and Tasting at Domaine des Pasquiers in Sablet, Southern Rhône, with Owner/ Winemaker Philippe Lambert in Sablet, Southern Rhône
The visit of Domaine des Pasquiers in Sablet consisted of a cellar tour and a tasting.
Owner/ Winemaker Philippe Lambert was our host.
We tasted 11 wines. The wines of Domaine des Pasquiers are available in the Washington DC area through MacArthur Beverages.
Founded in 1935 by the grandfather and great-grandfather of the current owners, this estate is situated in Vaucluse in the tiny, beautiful village of Sablet.
Today the domaine is expertly run by brothers Jean Claude and Philippe Lambert and Philippe’s son Matthieu, the third and fourth generation. With 220 acres of prime vineyards in appellations such as Gigondas, Sablet, Côtes du Rhône Village, Plan de Dieu, Côtes du Rhône, IGP, and Vin de Pays they are in the possession of some of the region's best plots.
11.15 am Tasting at Domaine la Bouïssière, Gigondas, Southern Rhône, with Josiane Faravel
Gilles and Thierry Faravel of Domaine la Bouïssière belong to the superstars of Gigondas and are perhaps the whizzards of the Rhône.
Right in the middle of Gigondas, just around the corner of Restaurant L’Oustalet, where we had dinner and a block away from Clos de Tourelles, where the tasting of the Beaucastel wines took place, they have a little tasting room.
Domaine La Bouissiere
The 45 acres of vineyards of this estate are located on some of the highest vineyards in Gigondas. Thierry and Giles’ father Antonin Faravel carved the vineyards out of the stone cliffs of the Dentelles de Montmirail in the 60s. He was aware of the hot southern climate and knew that the cooler temperatures of the higher altitude and the rocky soils would produce perfectly ripe grapes that would produce wines with more acidity and a moderate alcohol level. Vineyard work is done according to organic principles. The oldest vines are between 60 and 70 years old. Harvest is performed by hand, and grapes are partially destemmed and lightly crushed, depending on the vintage. Fermentation on indigenous yeasts takes place in unlined cement tanks or stainless steel tanks; wines age in a combination of tank, larger foudre and barrique. Wines are bottled by gravity and are unfined and unfiltered.
01.00 pm Lunch at Restaurant La Maison de Celou (Michelin Bib Gourmand) in
Châteauneuf-de-Cadagne
On the way to Les Baux de Provence, where we would spend the night, we had lunch at Restaurant La Maison de Celou in Châteauneuf-de-Cadagne, which has a Michelin Bib Gourmand.
Annette had selected the Menu Gourmand. We had a table on the terrace with a fantastic view of the Luberon area.
04.00 pm Visit of the Olive Oil Mill Moulin CastelaS in Les Baux de Provence
Moulin Castelas produces award-winning olive oils from olives produced organically in their 110 acres of AOP groves on the sun-drenched footslopes of Les Alpilles in the Valley des Baux de Provence and 160 acres on the Plaine de Crau since 1997. We will learn how olive oil is produced and we will taste the different award winning olive oils that embody the exceptional character of the Provence terroir.
05.15 pm Arrival and Check-in at Hôtel Le Mas de l’Oulivier in Les Baux de Provence.
Hôtel Le Mas de L’Ouliviés in Les Baux is a 4 star traditional Provençal country house style hotel sitting in the center of an olive grove at the foot of the rocky, steep slopes of the village of Les Baux de Provence. The beautifully landscaped pool invites for a relaxing swim.There,
we were deep in the provence. We enjoyed a
couple of hours in the afternoon at the pool and went back there for a
lovely cocktail dinner.
The site of Les Baux-de-Provence lies 15 km from Arles and 25 km from
Avignon. The small village and its ruined medieval castle are the stars
of the Alpilles. Set atop a rocky spur, it displays panoramic views over the Crau plain, the Camargue and the city of Arles. vv
08.00 pm Cocktail in the Beautiful Parc at Hôtel Le Mas de l’Oulivier.
Some beautiful wines matched with finger food was served.
Day 7: SUNDAY, June 26
09.00 am Check-out at hotel and departure.
Today is our day of three out of the five “Must See” cultural sights in the Southern Rhône area.
09.30 am Arrival in Arles - Arles: Roman History and van Gogh
We spent a morning in Arles, touring the town. Tour Guide François Carré gave us a fantastic city tour and explained the Roman history of Arles as well as the van Gogh era.
When visiting the Southern Rhône a sightseeing tour to Arles is a “must”. Arles exists since 800 BC but it became an important city much later when it came under Roman influence in 123 BC. During the Late Roman Empire Arles was the cultural and religious center and the city reached its peak of influence during the 4th and 5th centuries, when Roman Emperors frequently used it as their headquarters during military campaigns.
Arles is also knows as the city of van Gogh. It was here
where he produced some of his most famous paintings and we will pass by
some of the locations we will recognize from his paintings.
01.30 pm At the Pont du Gard: Lunch at Restaurant Les Terrasses and Sightseeing at the Pont du Gard
A visit to the Pont du Gard is the second “must” in the Southern Rhône
region. The Pont du Gard is a Roman aqueduct bridge built in the first
century AD that was part of a sophisticated system bringing water to the
Roman colony of Nîmes. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and truly
fascinating. It is breathtaking to imagine that people built this
aqueduct some 2000 years ago.
We had lunch at Restaurant Les Terrassesat at Pont du Gard and spent about an hour touring the Pont
du Gard.
05.00 pm Guided Tour of Pont Saint-Bénézet in Avignon.
This is the famous ruin of the so-called ‘Pont d’Avignon’, a wooden bridge across the Rhône river built between 1177 and 1185. It is beautiful to stand at the end of the half bridge in the middle of the Rhône river with a beautiful view towards the ancient city walls of Avignon and the turrets of the Palace of the Popes.
06.30 pm Arrival and Check-in at Hôtel Mercure Pont d’Avignon in Avignon.
Drinks at the Palace of the Popes
DAY 8: MONDAY, June 27
08.30 am Departure to Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
In the 13th century, during their stay in Avignon, the Popes – especially Pope John XXII - built a papal summer castle in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They found out that the area had exceptional soils, and they established vineyards on the slopes surrounding the summer palace.
I found a nice article in the Los Angeles Time: “Popes throughout history have liked their juice, and when the papal sea moved to Avignon in the 13th century, that juice was Châteauneuf-du-Pape ("the pope's new castle") made from grapes grown nearby in the Southern Rhône. The castle is a ruin now, the papal court long gone back to Rome, but the wines that bear the pope's coat of arms emblazoned on the bottles are still produced more or less according to the long-standing recipe. Not every winemaker uses all 13 of the grapes in the prescribed blend, though.”
The wines grow on a soil that is a mixture of large quartz stones (galets roulés) and sandy red clay. The large sun-warmed galets roulés reflect the sunlight and diffuse a gentle, provençal heat that helps the grapes to mature and their juice to concentrate. A very strong southern wind - the Mistral - whips up through the Rhône valley from the Mediterranean Sea and creates a welcome cooling effect, since the region can be pretty hot and dry.
With more than 8,000 acres under vine, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the largest appellation in the Rhône. It was the first wine region in France to gain AOC (today AOP) status in 1923.09.00 am Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Beaurenard in Châteauneuf-du Pape
We visited Domaine de Beaurenard in the center of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. We toured the wine cellar and tasted 6 wines.
Domaine de Beaurenard
Domaine de Beaurenard in Châteauneuf-du-Pape has been a family-run estate for seven generations. A notarial act dated December 16, 1695 mentions “Bois Renard”, which over time has become “Beaurenard”. Today Daniel and Frédéric Colon and Daniel’s sons Victor and Antoninn have taken over and are striving to sustain tradition.
The estate covers a
little under 80 acres of vines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and 60 acres in
the Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau AOP area. The vines in the
Châteauneuf-du-Pape are 45 years old on average and the yield varies
from 15 to 35 hl/ha. All of Domaine de Beaurenard’s vines are cultivated
organically (Ecocert certified) and biodynamically (Demeter certified).
The vines are thus attuned to nature, lunar and planetary cycles, and
the rhythms of the cosmos. At key moments, biodynamic preparations (born
dung, dung compost, silica, etc.) are applied that strengthen the
vines’s natural defenses. To further fortify them, plant-tea sprays
(nettle, yarrow, horsetail, camomile) are regularly dispensed. In the
vineyards, these methods involve working the soil without herbicides,
spreading carefully-dynamized manure, and maintaining sensible grass
cover. They also created a conservatory with the 13 grape varieties
allowed by the appellation, procured from the estate’s oldest vines
which also promotes biodiversity. The varieties were selected over a
five-year period and splice-grafted in a plot where the soil had been
resting for 12 years. In doing this, the domaine aimed primarily to
safeguard a natural genetic heritage that is particularly well adapted
to the terroir.
11.15 am Vineyard and Cellar Tour at Vignobles Alain Jaume, Domaine Grand Veneur, with Hélène Jaume in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The Jaume family first planted vines in 1826. Five generations later, in 1979, Alain Jaume took over and in 1996 he created Domaine Grand Veneur to bottle and age the wines under their own label.
Today his two sons, Sébastien and Christophe, and his daughter Hélène also work at the estate, hence the 6th generation is maintaining the traditions that made the estate one of the greatest in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The family produces estate wines and négociant wines.
The estate wines comprise 225 acres: “Domaine Grand Veneur” (15 acres Châteauneuf-du-Pape), “Château Mazane” (35 acres in Vacqueyras), “Clos de Sixte” (80 acres in Lirac), and “Domaine de la Grangette Saint Joseph (95 acres in the Vaucluse, Côte de Rhône appellation. These estate wines are farmed with certified organic agricultural practices.
The négociant wines are labeled “Alain Jaume” and are from purchased grapes and wines from winegrowing partners in several Southern Rhône appellations. The estate wines of the Jaume family are regarded as belonging to the upper echelon of Southern Rhône wines. The same attention to detail is paid to the winemaking of the négociant wines. The négociant wines are simply great wines at great prices with strength, complexity, and finesse.
The Jaume family holds five brands. The acquisition of Domaine de la
Grangette Saint Joseph in 2015 took the total area owned by Alain Jaume
to over 200 hectares:
Domaine Grand Veneur in Châteauneuf du Pape
Domaine du Clos de Sixte in Lirac
Chateau Mazane Vacqueyras
Domaine de la Grangette Saint Joseph at Jonquières in the Vaucluse (Côte du Rhône Appellation)
Alain Jaume (Négociant)
01.00 pm Wine-pairing Lunch at La Table d’Alain Jaume with Hélène Jaume at Domaine Grand Veneur in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
04.00 pm Guided Tour of the Palace of the Popes
To pay a visit to the Palace of the Popes is the third “must” when travelling in the Southern Rhône region. The palace is one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in Europe. It is also of great importance for European and Christian history given the fact that between 1309 and 1377 the Roman Catholic Papacy resided in Avignon and the Popes took residence in the ‘Palace of the Popes’.
05.45 pm Back at Hôtel Mercure Pont d’Avignon.
Drinks at the Palace of the Popes
Day 9: TUESDAY, June 28
09.00 am Tasting at Domaine de la Solitude in Châteauneuf-du Pape with Owner/ Winemaker Florent Lançon
We visited Domaine de la Solitude in Châteauneuf-du Pape. Although we had planned a more substantial visit of Domaine de la Solitude, because of the covid situation, the people of Domaine de la Solitude limited the visit to a tasting-only visit in the courtyard of the estate.
Domaine de La SolitudeDomaine de La Solitude belongs to one of the most ancient families native to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
This classic domaine, owned by the Lançon family, dates back to 1535.
The first member of the family came from Italy in 1264 to serve the Pope in Avignon. His name was Barberini - the name today of the special cuvées.
Over the centuries, the Lançons had two Bishops and even one Pope in their family. The three hats on the label refer to this. The medal on the label refers to a medal that one family member received from Napoleon after the battle of Waterloo. The three bees on the label is a family crest from the Middle Ages.
Today, Florent Lançon is in charge of the domaine. It is a large, 92 acres, property. The regular cuvée of the Domaine de La Solitude is a very traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Barberini and Réserve Secrète are more modern-style Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.
20 acres are planted with white varieties: 30% Roussanne, 50% Grenache Blanc, 15% Clairette and 5% Bourboulenc. 75 acres are planeted with red varities: 60% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault and 10% other. 11.00 am Departure.
11.15 am Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine du Pégau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine du Pégau is one of the top Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers and always among the top 3 in France’s Revue du Vin, Wine Advocate and other important magazines.
The
visit of Pégau consisted of a seated tasting with 6 wines and a tour of
the cellar. Different from the previous visit, we did not have a chance
to take to Owner/ Winemaker Laurence Féraud or Winemaker Andreas
Lenzenwöger, as both were out of town.
Domaine du Pégau
There is evidence that the Féraud family cultivated vines as early as 1733. However Domaine du Pégau only came into existence in 1987 when Paul Féraud and his daughter Laurence created the estate with initially 17.5 acres of vineyard holdings.
Today the domaine has a total of 51 acres in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation with a small percentage (about 4 acres) of white grapes; 67 acres of the Côte du Rhône Village appellation, 5 acres of Côte de Rhône, and 53 acres VSIG (vins sans identité géographique – vin de France).
Pégau produces two special
Châteauneuf-du-Pape red cuvées: one is the ‘Cuvée da Capo’ made most
years and coming from a plot in La Crau. The lieu dit ‘La Crau’ is a
very special plot in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyard sites and the most
famous one. It is the area towards Courthézon and particularily rich in
the galets roulés, round rocks or pebbles covering the clay soil, and
perfect for retaining the heat.
01.30 pm Village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Lunch at La Mule du Pape
We had lunch right in the center of Châteauneuf-du-Pape at La Mulke du Pape and some time to check out the small but famous village of Châteaunauf-du-Pape dotted with bistros, restaurants and ‘caveaux’.
02.45 pm Tasting of Châteuneuf-du-Pape Wines at La Cave de Mathias with Mathias in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
With a view of wrapping up our Châteauneuf-du-Pape experience, we visited La Cave de Mathias, right in the center of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Mathias gave a tour d’horizon of Châteuneuf-du-Pape wines and its history.
The cave itself is an experience. This vaulted cellar of the 17th century is a place where visual art and the art of discovering the secrets of wine meet.
04.15 pm Tour of the Ruins of the Summer Palace of the Popes
We drove up to the Pope’s summer palace that gave the village and vineyard appellation its name. Today we can only see the ruins of the medieval castle which sits at the top of the village and dominates the landscape to the south. It was built in 1320. The Popes of Avignon built their summer palace here to get away from busy Avignon. Only two walls and the foundation remain of the château. The walls are facing the village, and you see them from afar. They are still high and imposing, giving a good impression how it must have been centuries ago.
05.00 pm Arrival and Check in at Hôstellerie du Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf du Pape
07.30 pm Wine-pairing Dinner at Hôstellerie du Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf du Pape
The Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours ended at Hôstellerie du Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf du Pape, as the previous tours have done.
We spent our last dinner and night at Hôstellerie du Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf du Pape. Chef Hugo Loridan-Fombonnet prepared a very special wine-pairing menu for us matched with wines of the Rhône Valley.
This was a special evening in a very special place and a fitting finale to our tour through the Rhône Valley.
Day 10: WEDNESDAY, June 29
09.00 am Breakfast
Shuttle to Avignon
Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Rhône Valley Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History
Understanding the Wines of the Rhône Valley: The Classification - AOC/ Vin de Pay/ Vin de France
The Rhône Wine Region in Southern France and its Wines: History, Classification, Northern and Southern Rhône
Dinner at a Historic (Second Empire) Café-Brasserie in
Lyon: Grand Café des Négociants - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy
WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Maison Guigal in Ampuis, Côte Rôtie, Northern Rhône: Cellar Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Lunch at Le Bistro de Serine in Ampuis, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Visit and Tasting at Domaine de Boisseyt in Chavany, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Wine-pairing Dinner at Hôtellerie Restaurant Beau Rivage in Condrieu, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Tasting at Vins Jean-Luc Colombo with Anne Colombo in Cornas, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Visit and Tasting at Domaine du Tunnel with Owner/ Winemaker Stéphane Robert in Saint-Peray, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Lunch at Restaurant Le Quai (Michelin/ Bib Gourmand) in Tain-l’Hermitage, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Paul Jaboulet Aîné in Tain-l’Hermitage, Hermitage, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Tasting and Cellar Tour with Owner/ Winemaker David Reynaud at Domaine Les Bruyères in Beaumont-Monteux, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Lunch at Maison Chabran - La Grand Table with Chef Louis Chabran and his Father Chef Michel Chabran in Pont d l’Isère, Northern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Tasting at Domaine Chaume-Arnaud with Owner/ Winemaker Valérie Chaume-Arnaud in Vinsobres, Southern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Visit and Tasting with Alexandra Berthet-Rayne at Domaine André Berthet-Rayne in Cairanne, Southern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Tasting
the Wines of Château de Beaucastel at Domaine du Clos des Tourelles in Gigondas with Alexandre Fréguin, UK Best Sommelier 2018 - Rhône Valley
Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Wine-pairing Dinner at Restaurant L’Oustalet, 1 Star Michelin, in Gigondas, with Owner-chef Laurent Deconinck and Alexandre Fréguin, UK Best Sommelier 2018 - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Visit and Tasting at Domaine des Pasquiers in Sablet, Southern Rhône, with Owner/ Winemaker Philippe Lambert in Sablet, Southern Rhône - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Tasting at Domaine la Bouïssière, Gigondas, Southern Rhône, with Josiane Faravel - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Lunch at Restaurant La Maison de Celou (Michelin Bib Gourmand) in Châteauneuf-de-Cadagne - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
In Les Baux de Provence: Visit of the Olive Oil Mill Moulin Castelas and Overnight Stay and Dinner Hôtel Le Mas de l’Oulivier - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Arles: Roman History and van Gogh - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
At the Pont du Gard: Lunch at Restaurant Les Terrasses and Sightseeing at the Pont du Gard - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Lunch at Pont du Gard - Rhône Valley Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Avignon: Guided Tour of Pont Saint-Bénézet, the so-called ‘Pont d’Avignon’, and the Palace of the Popes - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Tasting at Domaine de la Solitude in Châteauneuf-du Pape with Owner/ Winemaker Florent Lançon - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Vineyard and Cellar Tour at Vignobles Alain Jaume, Domaine Grand Veneur, with Hélène Jaume in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Wine-pairing Lunch at La Table d’Alain Jaume with Hélène Jaume at Domaine Grand Veneur in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Beaurenard in Châteauneuf-du Pape - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine du Pégau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine du Pégau in Châteauneuf du Pape, with Owner/ Winemaker Laurence Féraud and Winemaker Andreas Lenzenwöger - Rhône Valley Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Lunch at "La Mule du Pape" and Tour of the Ruins of the Summer Palace of the Popes - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Tasting of Châteuneuf-du-Pape Wines at La Cave de Mathias with Mathias in Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
Wine-pairing Dinner and Overnight-stay at Hôstellerie du Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf du Pape - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France
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