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The 2022 Germany-South and Alsace Tour by ombiasy WineTours took place from July 1 to 10, 2022.
It was the first tour after a 2-year interruption due to corona. There were 9 participants, including Annette and myself.
This posting provides an overview. I am also issuing separate postings covering individual events, including visits of wineries and special lunches and dinners. See the list of postings at the end of the article.
Annette Schiller in her Announcement
Annette Schiller: Discover Germany’s southern wine regions where Rieslings have a very different taste profile than the ones from the more northern wine regions such as Mosel, Nahe, Rheingau, and where Pinot Noir is king (Riesling is the queen).
For the start we will visit winery Dönnhoff in the Nahe region as an outstanding example of a “classic” German Riesling appreciated and known by wine aficionados around the planet.
On the second day of our tour we travel to Rheinhessen, a region with gently rolling hills, sumptuous red and white wines, and a generation of young, ambitious, up and coming winemakers.
Then we travel on to Baden, the southernmost and internationally fairly unknown region that produces bone dry, more opulent Rieslings. This is also historic Pinot Noir (in German: Spätburgunder) country. The Cistercians brought the Pinot Noir grape to Baden, because they found there the same limestone terroir as in Burgundy.
We will step across the Rhine River to compare the different style of wines of the eastern (German) and western (French) Rhine valley.
The Alsace, where the vineyards are concentrated in a narrow strip between the Vosges mountains in the west and the Rhine river in the east is one of the most picturesque wine region on the planet. History has an important influence on the style of the Alsatian wines since nationality has passed from Germany to France and vice versa several times throughout the centuries and each country left its mark. Enjoy 1-Michelin star meals at beautiful Alsatian restaurants.
Enjoy the Pfalz, the second largest German wine region by growing area and only topped by Rheinhessen, which it borders to the north.
Discover the 2000 year old city of Mainz, one of the ten wine capitals of the World, where wine is one of the most important parts of everyday life.
Rheinhessen • Baden • Alsace • Pfalz
We visited a total of 21 wineries in Alsace in France (7) and in 3
different
German wine regions (14): Rheinhessen, the largest German wine region
with many innovative, young winemakers; Baden, the most southern German
wine region and Germany’s
answer to Burgundy; Pfalz with its almost Mediterranean climate and
voluptuous whites and reds.
Accommodations
Night 1: Friday, July 01:
► Hotel Hilton in Mainz, a modern 4 star hotel situated on the edge of old town Mainz on the picturesque banks of the mighty Rhine River.
Night 2: Saturday, July 02:
► Hotel am Sophienpark in Baden-Baden, a lovely 4 star old style grand hotel with high ceilings
and a beautiful staircase central to the hotel. Its location is fantastic, right in the center of town and
close to everything.
Night 3: Sunday, July 03:
► Achkarrer Krone in Achkarren, a 3 star beautifully situated family-run hotel in the middle of the
vineyards of the famous Kaiserstuhl region with a genuine Kaiserstuhl hospitality tradition since
1561.
Nights 4, 5, 6: Monday July 04 + Tuesday, July 05 + Wednesday 06:
► Hôtel Les Remparts in Kaysersberg, Alsace, a 3 star hotel with a great view from the breakfast
roomon to the Kaysersberg castle ruins and surrounding vineyards, just outside of the city gate of
Kaysersberg, a very typical, picturesque, romantic Alsatian wine town.
Night 7: Thursday, July 07:
► Parkhotel in Landau, a 4 star hotel located in the outskirts of Landau, just next to the city park and lake. The vinotheque offers a good choice of the best of Palatine wines.
Night 8: Friday, July 08:
► Merkurhotel an den Salinen in Bad Dürkheim, a 4 star modern hotel in the park of the spa town
of Bad Dürkheim next to the salt pans.
Night 9: Saturday, July 09:
► Hotel Hilton in Mainz, a modern 4 star hotel situated on the edge of old town Mainz on the
picturesque banks of the mighty Rhine River.
Germany-South and Alsace Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Day 1: Friday, July 01, 2022
12.00 pm Meeting in the Lobby of the Hotel Hilton in Mainz
01.00 pm Cellar Tour and Tasting with Daniel Wagner at Weingut Wagner-Stempel (VDP) in Siefersheim, Rheinhessen
Owner and winemaker Daniel Wagner is the 9 th generation of this estate in Siefersheim, in the far northwestern corner of the Rheinhessen wine region. The Siefersheim sites are carved out of volcanic hills and the weathered volcanic soil brings out phenomenal, well-structured wines. Daniel’s thrive for precision and quality regularly gets awarded with 4 grapes in the Gault-Millau wine guide for Germany.
03.30 pm Tasting with Helmut Dönnhoff and Sascha Johannes Schömel at Weingut H. Dönnhoff (VDP) in Oberhausen, Nahe
Following our first stop at Weingut Wagner-Stempel in Siefersheim, in the far northwestern corner of the Rheinhessen wine region, we visited another Riesling Giant, Weingut Dönnhoff in Oberhausen, Nahe.
From Wagner-Stempel to Dönnhoff, it was a short trip of just 45 minutes, although we moved from the Rheinhessen region to the Nahe region.
We were received by Sascha Johannes Schömel, who was a Sommelier at the Michelin-starred Restaurant Amador in Mannheim and L.A.Jordan Ketschauer Hof in Deidesheim before he joined Weingut Dönnhoff in 2017.
Helmut Dönnhoff, the Grand Master of Riesling, was there for part of the tasting.
08.30 pm Al Fresco Dinner at Weinhaus Bluhm in Old Town Mainz
This restaurant / wine bar is tucked away in Old Town Mainz. Owners are the French/German father and daughter team Pierre and Mureille Stadelmann. Murielle is an accomplished opera singer but it is also her passion to conjure up delicacies with her father behind the stove. Their motto is: „French-Mainz-Fusion; this special connection between German ‚Gemütlichkeit’ and French ‚savoir-vivre’ is our goal.“
DAY 2: Saturday, July 02
09.15 am Check-out at Hotel Hilton and departure from Mainz.
10.00 am Cellar Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Owner/ Winemaker Gesine Roll at Weingut Weedenborn in Monzenheim, Rheinhessen
Weingut Weedenborn is located in Rheinhessen, Germany’s largest wine
region, in the village of Monzernheim, about an hour south of Mainz by
bus, close to world renowed winemakers KP Keller, Wittmann and
Battenfeld-Spanier.
Rheinhessen is a region with gently rolling vine-covered hills as far as your eye can see. It forms a triangle between the Rhein and the Nahe river. Rheinhessen has long been the backwater of the German wine scene in terms of quality. Over the last two decades a generation of young, exquisitely trained, well-travelled, and highly motivated vintners put Rheinhessen back on the map.
We started the visit with a tour of the winemaking facilities and then sat down in the lovely courtyard for a tasting of Gesine's wines.
01.30 pm Weingut Jülg (VDP): Lunch in the Wine Tavern with Karin and Werner Jülg and Tasting in the Vineyard with Johannes Jülg
Weingut Jülg is a rising star in the German wine world. Not surprisingly, it was asked to join the VDP - the Association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany - recently.
The visit of Weingut Jülg had two parts.
First, after the visit of Weingut Weedenborn in Rheinhessen, we drove about an hour to the southern tip of the Pfalz region, to the small village of Schweigen, which sits right at the German/ French border. Weingut Jülg is based in Schweigen. In addition to the winery, the Jülg family also runs an excellent restaurant at the estate, where we had lunch. The weather was fine and we sat down at one of the many tables in the lovely courtyard of the Jülg Estate.
We were met by Werner and Karin Jülg, who transferred the estate to their son Johannes Jülg a couple of years ago. Johannes is now in charge of winemaking. His parents help out and take the lead in the Jülg restaurant.
Second, while we were there, the
"Grenzenlos Wein/ Wine Borderless" took place, a wine festival right in the vineyards. Following
lunch, we went to the wine festival and enjoyed a winetasting right in the
vineyards of Schweigen with Johannes Jülg.
04.30 pm Departure. We cross the Rhine river and drive to the Baden wine region.
05.30 pm Check-in at Hotel am Sophienpark in Baden-Baden.
Baden-Baden is well-known in Europe as one of the fanciest, and most glamorous spa towns. In the 19 th century it’s thermal baths led to fame as a fashionable resort and in its heydays Kings and Queens, Europe’s aristocrats, artists, intellectuals flocked to Baden-Baden to take their baths.
DAY 3: Sunday, July 03
10.00 am Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Sven Nieger at Weingut Sven Nieger in Baden-Baden-Varnholt, Ortenau
Sven Nieger belongs to the young generation of winemakers who are excellently educated and well travelled. They are the „enfants terribles“ of the wine scene since they follow their very own ideas that sometimes clash with the etablishment and wine laws.
The visit of Weingut Sven Nieger was quite extensive and intensive. We
met at the house, where Sven lives with his family and where everything
started in the garage. Sven joined us on our bus and we drove to his
vineyards. From there, we continued to his new winemaking facilities,
where we also had a tasting from tank. The tour ended in the tasting
room of Sven`s home with a tasting of his wines.
12.30 pm Lunch at Waldgasthaus Scherrhof - Deep in the Black Forest, Local
Badenser Cuisine at its Best
It took us a while to find this place. The beautiful drive took us through the densly wooded Black Forest and our GPS stopped working. So, we had to go back to the old method and had to ask people for direction.
The historic Scherrhof is a unique place with a very cosy ambiance. It sits in the middle of the woods and you feel like being in a Hänsel and Gretel forest.
03.00 pm Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner/ Winemaker Robert Schätzle at Weingut Schloss Neuweier (VDP) in Baden-Baden-Neuweier, Baden
Weingut Schloss Neuweier/ Robert Schätzle is one of the most impressvie wine estates in all of Germany.
Wine has been produced at this 13 th century castle for more than 700 years. About 100 years ago Riesling became the dominant grape and passion. Still today, winemaking takes place in the vaulted cellars that date back to the 17 th century. In 2012 the Schätzle family bought the estate and continues to produce wines of uncompromising quality. Robert Schätzle, the winemaker, studied oenology and comes from a family with a long tradition of winemaking in the Kaiserstuhl region to the south.
Robert Schätzle was our host. When we arrived, Robert suggested to walk over to the vineyards first. While walking there, he introduced us to the rich history of Schloss Neuweier. We then sat down with Robert for a tasting of the Weingut Schloss Neuweier portfolio.
06.15 pm Check-in at Hotel Achkarrer Krone in Vogtsburg-Achkarren, Kaiserstuhl, Baden
If you want to experience true German “Gemütlichkeit”, and a family-run hotel in the upper middle class with a soul and genuine friendliness, this is it. The hospitality history of this place started 451 years ago. Germany’s rural areas are dotted with these kind of hotels.
07.00 pm Dinner at restaurant Achkarrer Krone
The restaurant has an excellent write-up in the Michelin guide for Germany.
DAY 4: Monday, July 04
09.00 am Check-out at hotel and departure
Today we explored the Kaiserstuhl region. It is a very special place in the German wine regions landscape. Importer Schatzi Wines came up with a very good description: “The Kaiserstuhl (named for its resemblance to an emperor’s throne) is a compact zone of some 10,000 acres of vines planted around the stump of an extinct volcano. It rises above the Rhine river valley, just east of Alsace. Geologically speaking, it is a rare place indeed. Volcanoes formed here during the late Tertiary period, at the end of a long succession of eruptions, starting in the Cretaceous. Heavily eroded volcanic vents mark the landscape and the rocks that remain are of the Miocene, dating 16 to 19 million years before the present. These volcanic rocks are of alkali-carbonate structure and contain elements of magnesium iron silicate, which can be found here as the gem peridot, a crystalline material that weathers slowly and provides good drainage.”
09.15 am Cellar Tour and
Tasting with Martin Bercher at Weingut Bercher (VDP) in Burkheim,
Kaiserstuhl, Baden
The history of the Bercher family in the Kaiserstuhl region can be traced back to 1457 when the family moved from Switzerland to Burkheim after the end of the Thirty Year War. In 1756 Franz-Michael Bercher built the manor house with the vaulted underground cellar which has since been the seat of the winery. Today it is the 10 th generation of the Bercher family, brothers Martin (vineyard manager) and Arne (winemaking) that is at the helm of the estate.
The 62 acres of vineyards are planted mostly with Burgundy grapes: 40% Pinot Noir, 23% Pinot Gris, 17% Pinot Blanc, some Chardonnay and also some Rieslings.
The Kaiserstuhl region is the warmest grape growing area in Germany and the soils consist of mineral-rich, chalky loess on top of volcanic subsoils.
Weingut Bercher belongs to the top estates in Germany with 4 stars (out of 5) in the 2018 Vinum wine guide for Germany. They also have an eclectic portfolio of grape varieties including pinot noir, pinot gris, pinot blanc, chenin blanc, scheurebe, riesling, muscat and chardonnay.
Martin Bercher was our host. He showed us the wine cellar and led a seated tasting.
11.15 am Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Matthias Höfflin and Kaylie Magestro at Weingut Höfflin in Bötzingen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden
Matthias
Höfflin belongs to the pioneers of organic viticulture. His winery of
30 acres benefits from sun-drenched sites around the almost untouched
Schambachtal in the eastern Kaiserstuhl region.
US-American Kaylie Magestro was our host.
Matthias Höfflin joined us at various occasions during the visit, which comprised of a vineyard walk, a seated tasting and a tour of the wine cellar.
Given the winemaking philosophy of Matthias Höfflin, we spent a large part of the visit in the vineyard.
01.30 pm Lunch at Rasthaus Lenzenberg in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden
The restaurant offered fantastic view of the Kaiserstuhl vineyards.
03.15 pm Cellar Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Joachim Heger and Winemaker Markus Mleinek at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden
Weingut Dr. Heger is one of the young wineries by German standards. It was founded in 1935 by
Dr. Max Heger, a country doctor. Today the winery is in the hands of the third generation.
Joachim Heger and his wife Silvia are in charge of 50 acres planted primarily with Pinot Noir and the white Burgundy grapes. The winery is in Ihringen. The town of Ihringen enjoys the highest average temperature in Germany. While some great Riesling and Silvaner get made here, it is really Pinot country. I quote Joachim Heger: “Pinot noir has a very long tradition in Baden. The first vines were planted in the year 884 by Emperor Karl III at Lake Constance.”
After graduating from the
oenological university in Geisenheim Joachim travelled the world to
learn more about making Pinot Noir. Most influential for him were the
trips to Burgundy. He said: “Burgundy opened a completely new
perspective. We learned that all is about terroir, soil, and aspects.
But also the importance of the grower’s absoluter commitment to manual
work and the steady and deep look into these components.” His wines are
rich, very well-structured, compact, but nevertheless elegant and
subtle.
Long-time winemaker Markus Mleinek was our host. We did a cellar tour followed by a seated tasting in the courtyard of Weingut Dr. Heger. There, we were joined by Joachim Heger.
Weingut Dr. Heger wines are available in the USA through Schatzi Wines.
05.30 om Departure
We left the Baden area and Germany on the right bank of the Rhine River, at the foot of the Black Forest Mountains, and crossed over the Rhine into France, into the Alsace region. Alsace lies just across from Baden on the left bank of the Rhine at the foot of the Vosges Mountains
06.30 pm Arrival and Check-in at Hôtel Les Remparts in Kaysersberg, Alsace.
Kaysersberg is an incredible beautiful small town. It is the birthplace of Dr. Albert Schweitzer, theologian, organist, philosopher, and physician, who is mostly known for his work at the jungle hospital in Lambarene, Gabon, and as recipient of the Nobel Peace Price in 1952.
08.00 pm Dinner at Restaurant Chez Roger Hassenforder in Kaysersberg, Alsace.
This restaurant is just around the corner of our hotel. Owner is the Hassenforder family. The name is well-known among Europeans interested in sports. Roger Hassenforder – who died at age 90 in 2021 – was a Tour de France legend. The brasserie is famous for its Flammkuchen.
DAY 5: Tuesday, July 05
09.30 am Tour of the Newly Constructed Winery with Pierre Gassmann and Tasting (with Wine Journalist Yves Beck) at Domaine Rolly-Gassmann in Rorschwihr, Alsace
The last time we visited Rolly Gassman was in 2018. Back then, the tasting had taken place in a small room on the ground floor of the home of the Gassmann family. We had seen the construction site of the new winemaking and tasting facilties. Now, 4 years later, the construction of the huge and most impressive new winemaking and tasting facilities had been finished.
Pierre Gassmann was our host. Understandibly, he did not have as much time for us as in 2018. Yves Beck was there, the famous wine critic from Switzerland, for an introductory tasting of the region`s wines. Still, Pierre showed us around and then left us in the good hands of a staff member for the tasting.
The Domain Rolly-Gassmann came into existence in 1967 with the marriage of Marie-Thérèse Rolly and Louis Gassmann. But Domaine Rolly-Gassmann is by no means a newcomer in Alsatian viticulture. The Gassmann’s can trace back their viticultural roots to 1611 and the Rolly family to 1676. Today the Domaine is managed by son Pierre Gassmann who already started to convert to biodynamic viticulture in 1997.
Domaine Rolly-Gassmann has 150 acres of vineyards which is quite big for an Alsatian family
domaine. There are no Grand Cru sites in and around Rorschwihr but several excellent ”lieu-dit”. The style of the Rolly-Gassmann wines is opulent, lush, ripe, and very often with a fair bit of residual sugar. The Domain’s philosophy is to wait for physiological and phenolic maturity in the fruit even with some botrytis. 10% of their production is Pinot Noir, and their Pinot Noir belongs to the best what Alsace has to offer.
12.15 pm Snack-type lunch at Le757, La Taverne du Haut-Kœnigsburg, in Orschwiller
01.00 pm Guided Tour of Château du Haut-Kœnigsburg in Alsace
This
was something for the history buffs among us. The castle represents 900
years of German/ Alsatian/ French history: Guided Tour of the Château
du Haut-Kœnigsburg.
The castle was built in the first half of the 12th century as a Hohenstaufen imperial castle by Duke Friedrich, father of the German king Friedrich Barbarossa, and was first mentioned in 1147 as Castrum Estufin. The castle is a contemporary witness of several centuries of inner-European disputes and rivalries between feudal lords, kings and emperors. The towns and trade routes in this part of the Upper Rhine Rift could be controlled from the castle. Among other things, a bricked-up window arcade and a lion relief have been preserved from the Staufer period.
From 1192 the name Kinzburg (Königsburg) was used. In 1462 the castle was destroyed. The Habsburgs then gave the castle complex to the von Tierstein family. Around 1500, the Tiersteiners rebuilt the castle and adapted it to the advances in artillery. The Koenigsburg is said to withstand even heavy artillery fire. From then on, Haut-Kœnigsbourg flourished until 1633.
In 1633, during the Thirty Years' War, in which Catholic forces fought Protestants, the Imperial Castle was besieged by Protestant Swedish forces. After a 52-day siege, the castle was burned down and looted by the Swedish troops. After that it remained unused for almost 200 years and the ruins were overgrown by the forest. During this period, various romantic poets and artists were inspired by the castle.
In 1862, the castle ruins were listed as a historic monument and, three years later, were acquired by the nearby town of Sélestat. The city administration is ensuring that part of the ruins are structurally secured and is considering restoring the castle. However, the city was unable to fund the planned restoration.
After the war between France and Germany, Alsace became part of the newly founded German Empire in 1871. In 1899, the city of Sélestat donated the still majestic ruins to German emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II, who commissioned extensive restoration work. The aim was to restore the castle as faithfully as possible to the state it was in before it was destroyed in the Thirty Years' War. The work lasted from 1900 to 1908.
On May 13,
1908, the restored Hochkönigsburg was inaugurated in the presence of
the Emperor. In a lavish re-enactment ceremony, a historical squad
entered the castle under the pouring rain. After World War I, the French
state confiscated the castle under the 1919 Treaty of Versailles. Since
1993, the castle has been classified as a historic monument by the
French Ministry of Culture. In 2007, ownership was transferred to the
Bas-Rhin department. Today it is one of the most famous tourist
attractions in the region.
03.00 pm Tasting at Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim, Alsace
The Domaine Zind-Humbrecht is unquestionably one of the greatest domaines in Alsace.
“Winegrowing is a passion that has been passed down from father to son in the Humbrecht family since the 17 th century. Domaine Humbrecht today comprises of 100 acres of vines, spread out over an array of different terroirs in the geological patchwork which is the Alsatian wine region and birthplace of our noble grape varieties.” That’s how the Humbrechts describe their domaine. The domaine was established in 1959 through the amalgamation of the Humbrecht vineyards in Gueberschwihr, and the Zind Family vineyards in Wintzenheim, following the marriage of Léonard Humbrecht and Geneviève Zind.
Today their son Oliver Humbrecht, who is the first Frenchman to have received the Master of Wine title, and Léonard Humbrecht run the domaine. Since 1997 the vineyards are farmed biodynamically. Work in the vineyards is organized according to moon phases and burying cow horns to improve the vitality of the soil, as well as preparing natural compost at home are some of many practices followed at the Zind Humbrecht domaine.
The visit of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht was a combined cellar tour and tasting as the tasting room of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht is located adjacent to the cellar with a great view of the cellar. We tasted 7 wines.
05.00 pm Back at Hotel in Kaysersberg
Following the visit of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim, we
drove back to our hotel in Kaysersberg and enjoyed dinner a 3-course
wine-pairing dinner with 5 wines at Restaurant La Veille Forge in the evening.
Before dinner we had some time to stroll through the town of Kaysersberg. At this time the shops were still open.
Also worth seeing is the magnificent Renaissance palace of the Hôtel de Ville (town hall) and next to it the church of Saine-Croix with the altar of 1518 with its 18 painted wooden reliefs depicting the passion of Christ and his resurrection.
DAY 6: Wednesday, July 06
09.00 am Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Dirler at Domaine Dirler-Cadé
in Bergholtz, Alsace
This winery exists since 1871. It came into existence in its current
form when Jean Dirler, 5th generation of the Dirler family, married
Ludivine, daughter of Leon and Nicole Hell-Cadé, winegrowers in
neighboring Guebwiller. In 2000 Ludevine’s parents plots of vines were
integrated into the Dirler estate and the domaine was renamed
Dirler-Cadé.
Jean Pierre Dirler, the father of Jean Dirler, hosted us, assisted by his wife.
Ludevine Dirler-Cadé was supposed to host us but because her father-in-law had been admitted to the hospital earlier that day, was not able to be with us. So, Jean Pierre Dirler took over on short notice. Upon arriving, Jean Pierre joined us on our bus and showed us his vineyards. We then went to the tasting room of Domaine Dirler-Cadé for a formal tasting.
The integration of Ludevine’s parents plots of vines into the Dirler
estate in 2000 took the total estate to 18 hectares, of which 42% are
Grand Cru:
Saering, with its clay/limestone/sandstone soils and quivering acidity; Spiegel, more sandstone/stony in its make-up, ensuring an ethereal finesse;
Kessler, rich in sandy/clay/sandstone is famed for its power and ageing potential;
while the sandstone/volcanic/sandy Kitterlé brims with perfumed spicy
aromas on the nose and great persistence on the palate.
11.15 am Cellar Tour and Tasting with Frédéric Hugel at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace
Famille Hugel is one of the major producers of Alsace wine and has been an important force in the Alsace wine industry in its developments during the second half of the 20th century. For over 370 years and with 13-family generations the Hugel family has unrivaled experience and knowledge of Alsace vineyards and winemaking. Known today for their passion and modern outlook, the dynamic Hugel family, located in the picture-postcard fortified village of Riquewihr, has earned a worldwide reputation for their Alsace wines.
Owner Jean Frédéric Hugel was our host. We toured the winery, which is
situated right in the center of Riquewihr, and then sat down for a tasting.
01.00 pm Touring Riquewihr
Following the visit of Hugel we stayed on in Riquewihr for a couple of hours to have lunch and for sightseeing.
Riquewihr is a medieval town right
in the heart of the Alsatian vineyards. It is basically an open air
museum. The magnificent half-timbered houses dating back to the 15 th –
18 th centuries, the intact city wall, the Dolder-a 13 th century
defensive city gate, the Thieves’ tower-the former prison of Riquewihr,
they all make up an exceptional architectural whole. There are numerous
wistubs, restaurants, cafés to get a bite for lunch.
03.00 pm Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Owners Catherine Faller and
Eddy Leiber-Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace
Domaine Weinbach is one of the most prominent estates in Alsace.
Owners Eddy Leiber-Faller was our host. He took a look at the vineyards, toured the wine cellar and sat down in the kitchen for a seated tasting, where we also joined by his mother, Catherine Faller.
Domaine Weinbach is beautifully situated at the foot of the majestic Schlossberg hill within the 12.5 acres large Clos des Capucines, the former Capuchin monastery still today completly surrounded by a high stone wall.
Today, 73 acres of vineyards belong to Domaine Weinbach. The Capuchin monks started making wine in 1612 and established the Domaine Weinbach. During the French revolution it became a national property. In 1898 the domaine was acquired by the Faller brothers.
Théo Faller, the next generation, developed the estate into one of the best wineries in Alsace. His unrelenting commitment to delivering excellence and his focus on the incomparable terroirs and grape varieties produced wines of the highest quality.
After Théo’s death in 1979, the winery was managed by his widow Colette and their two daughters, Laurence and Catherine, who continued the commitment to quality.
In 1998 they started the process of converting to biodynamic winemaking. I quote the Fallers: “The main motivation is to increase soil activity and thus stimulate soil/root/aerial system exchanges with the objective of producing better quality, terroir driven and aromatically complex grapes and wines. Biodynamics helps us care for and protect our vines not only for now but also for future generations.”
In 2014 Laurence died at age 47 and in February 2016 Colette passed away.
Catherine Faller is now the sole manager of the estate.
05.00 pm Departure. Returning to Hotel Les Remparts in Kaysersberg.
07.15 pm Departure from Hotel Les Remparts.
07.30 pm Wine-pairing Dinner with Owner/ Chef Jean-Michel Eblin at 1-star Michelin Restaurant Le Maximilien in Zellenberg, Alsace
Michelin - 1 Star: Jean-Michel Eblin, the chef-patron of this place in the pretty village of Zellenberg, is clear on one thing: he will never sell it! We can understand his almost visceral attachment to this establishment, which is built on a plot of (Pinot Noir) vineyards that belonged to his family. With impressive consistency, he creates cuisine based on solid classical foundations, with the occasional nod to modern innovation for good measure. Might you opt for his turbot, green asparagus and morels or, alternatively, the shredded scallop, truffle and baby lettuce? The produce is fresh and of excellent quality; it is all elevated by a fine wine list: they have ticked all the boxes here.
DAY 7: Thursday, July 07
09.30 am Check-out at Hotel Les Remparts in Kaysersberg.
10.00 am Visit and Tasting with Adrien Schoenheitzat at Vins Schoenheitz in Wihr-au-Val, Alsace.
The Nouvelle Auberge is elegant and endearing at the same time. The owners offer a delicious culinary duet. The gastronomy upstairs offers classic recipes with modern interpretation perfectly prepared by chef Bernard Leray.
03.30 pm Tasting with Rémy Gresser at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau, Alsace
The
tasting at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau with Rémy Gresser was our
last stop in Alsace. Following the tasting we drove up to the north to
visit estates in the Pfalz and Rheinhessen regions.
Andlau is halfway between Strasbourg and Colmar at the foot of the Sainte Odile mountain. The vineyard area is thinning out in this northern Alsatian wine region. However the prestigious slopes of the Sainte Odile hill produce first-class wines.
The Domaine Rémy Gresser can look back on a long history. As early as 1520, Thiébaut Gresser is mentioned in the Andlau annals as the winegrower and magistrate of Andlau, which proves the family's connection to viticulture. Since then, the domain has passed from father to son.
Rémy Gresser now cultivates 35 acres of vineyards with extremely complex geology. Rémy produces exciting wines of great purity and expression due to the soil from which they come.
His three Grands Crus, for example, are very different in style.
Wiebelsberg is the largest Grand Cru, and its sandstone gives very floral, lively Rieslings.
Moenchberg, on granite and fossil limestone, produces succulent wines.
And Kastelberg, a unique terroir on Steige schist, produces some of Alsace’s most exciting
wines, loaded with minerality.
His other crus are Brandhof (limestone), Duttenberg (clay-marne) and Kritt (gravelly soil).
Tradition and nature are very important to him, hence long ago he converted to biodynamic winemaking practices. Rémy creates his wines in a dry style. His wines are extremely terroir-expressive and elegant.
07.30 pm Arrival and Check-in at Parkhotel in Landau, Pfalz, Germany
The hotel has a nice restaurant with a lovely terrace overlooking the city park and the lake.
I had a Knipser in the evening and a Weisswurst for breakfast.
DAY 8: Friday, July 08
09.30 Check-out at Parkhotel in Landau.
09.45 Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Hans Rebholz at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP) in Siebeldingen, Pfalz
After
spending 4 days in Alsace, we were back in Germany, in the Pfalz. The
first winemaker we visited was Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, which
belongs to the best of the best in Germany.
Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz, the third generation of the Rebholz family continue what the founder, the Ökonomierat Eduard Rebholz began: producing highly individualistic wines by working as close as possible with nature.
Today the winery works according to biodynamic principles. The Rebholz wines do not undergo any chaptalization, fining, or deacidifying nor will sweet reserve be added to underscore the individuality of the terroir, the climate, and the grape.
The Rebholz were the pioneers to produce through fermented dry wines in the southern Pfalz region. 75% of the 47 acres under vine are planted with Riesling and the Burgundy grapes, 10% with Chardonnay and the rest with Silvaner, Sauvignon Blanc, Muskateller and Gewürztraminer. Due to the purity the wines have an enormous ageing potential.
Hansjörg Rebholz motto is: “No compromise!" The famous vineyard sites are “Kastanienbusch” and “Im Sonnenschein”.
Our guides were Hans and Valentin Rebholz, the twin sons of Hansjörg und Birgit, who are slowly take on more and more responsibilities for the winery. We saw Valentin only shortly. It was mostly Hans Rebholz, while Valentin was working in the wine cellar.
Hans took us on a vineyard tour by bus to the famous vineyard sites “Kastanienbusch” and “Im Sonnenschein” and then led a seated tasting at the estate.
12.45 pm Lunch at Restaurant 1832 at the Hambacher Schloss (Hambach Castle) in Neustadt an der Weinstraße
The Hambacher Schloss is considered a symbol of democracy in Germany.
From 1798 to 1815 (Congress of Vienna) French Revolution troops governed the Palatinate and had given important rights to the people.
After the Congress of Vienna this area came under Bavarian rule. The Bavarian administration stripped the people of the rights granted to them under French rule.
In 1832 the ruin of the Hambacher Schloss was the focal point of the discontent of the Palatinate people over the repressive measures of the Bavarian administration.
The Hambacher Fest was a German national democratic festival celebrated from 27 May to 30 May 1832 at Hambach Castle. The event was disguised as a nonpolitical county fair. It was one of the earliest main public demonstrations in support of German unity, freedom, and democracy. Finally in March of 1848 at the instigation of liberal leaders from all German States including Austria, a preliminary parliament met in Frankfurt am Main and called for election of a national assembly. The German National Assembly ultimately failed to create a united German state during the revolution of 1848.
03.30 pm Tasting in the Courtyard and Cellar Tour with Frank John at Weingut
Frank John in Neustadt an der Weinstraße, Pfalz
Frank
John is a very small, family owned and run wine manufactury, producing
ultra-premium wines according to biodynamic principles.
Frank
John was cellar master at the prestigious Reichsrath von Buhl winery
before he started out on his own. He now farms 8 acres of vineyards with
biodynamic principles and since 2012 he is Demeter certified. Only
manual harvesting in the vineyard, real spontaneous fermentation in the
wine cellar without the usual post-vaccination with pure culture yeasts.
Of course, no enzymes or
bacteria are added. The basic and
style-defining feature is the long aging in large wooden barrels of
1.200 to 2.400 liters on the full yeast and the aging in the bottle.
Patience as a basic principle, deceleration as a quality feature. Frank
John is a true specialist who, like few winemakers, has mastered the
full range of wine. He can make red wine, white wine, and sparkling
wine. He does this by concentrating on just a few wines.
The perfect Pinot Noir with German DNA, a dry Riesling worthy of aging and an excellent Riesling sparkling wine with bottle maturity and depth, which is even still disgorged warm, like in the past.
The wines are all calm and balanced like John himself. You have inner radiance and seriousness. Thoroughly great, technically excellent wines.
And
with son Sebastian, the next generation is already working hard and
responsibly in the cellar. Daughter Dorothea is also joining the estate.
After receiving an introduction by Sebastian John in front of the estate, we sat down in the beautiful courtyard for a vertical tasting (2018 – 2019 – 2020) of his Rieslings from different terroir as well as of his Pinot Noir. We also tasted his spectacular Riesling Sekt, before ending the visit with a tour of the wine cellar.
06.00 pm Arrival and check-in at Mercure Hotel an den Salinen in Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz
07.30 pm Dinner at Riverside Lounge Restaurant
This restaurant belongs to the Mercure hotel. It was very relaxing to sit next to the parc and
the salt pans.
DAY 9: Saturday, July 09
09.15 am Cellar Tour and Tasting with Andreas Rings at Weingut Rings (VDP) in
Freinsheim, Pfalz
Weingut Rings is one of the current shooting stars in the German wine scene. They came from nowwhere and are now one of the best producers in Germany. In 2015, Weingut Rings was admitted to the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany. In the Eichelmann WeinGuide Deutschland 2023, Weingut Rings is one of the 2 climbers to the group of world class producers (5/5 Stars).
Eichelmann WeinGuide Deutschland 2023 - 2 Climbers to the 5/5 Stars Level (World Class): Salwey (Baden) and Rings (Pfalz), Germany
We were received by Andy Rings, who showed us the new winery and sat down with us for an extensive portfolio tasting of 14 wines.
The foundation for today's winery was laid by the previous generation, which farmed grapes and other fruit right up until the turn of the millennium. Son Steffen Rings started to make wine at the estate in 2001. His brother Andreas joined the family winery later after he finished his vocational training. In 2008 the brothers teamed up and have been running the estate together ever since. With its steady expansion over the last few years, the now 75 acres of vineyards are planted with an even split between red and white grape varieties. The vineyards now include many of the best sites in Freinsheim, Kallstadt and Ungstein. The brothers produce unique wines that show the different soils and the signature of the winemaker. In mid 2015 winery Rings was admitted to the VDP. This membership crowns the tireless effort of the brothers to strive for top quality wines.
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11.30 am Tasting with Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze and Riccardo Korner at Weingut
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf (VDP) in Wachenheim, Pfalz
This was a tasting only event at one of Germany's leading wine estates, Weingut Bürklin-Wolf in Wachenheim. We were seated at one of the tables on the terrasse, where Ricardo Korner, Manager of the Tasting Facilities, led us through the portfolio of Weingut Bürklin-Wolf.
During the tasting, we were joined by owner Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze.
Weingut Bürklin-Wolf was founded in 1597, but it wasn’t until the end of the 19th century that it
reached its present size and worldwide fame at the hand of the privy councilor Dr. Albert Bürklin.
With 212 acres of vineyards Bürklin-Wolf numbers among the largest and most renowned estates of Germany. It is a treasure trove of top-rated vineyard sites (9 Grand Cru and 6 Premier Cru sites in Wachenheim, Ruppertsberg, Forst, Deidesheim) in the unique landscape of the Mittelhaardt – and it is here where they produce top-quality Riesling in harmony with nature.
The Estate has always been considered to be a pioneer and trailblazer for change in German viticulture.
In 1990, Bettina, Dr. Albert Bürklin’s eldest daughter, who studied oenology, took over the estate from her parents, together with her husband Christian von Guradze. Their decision to classify the vineyards sites consulting century old classification maps and adopting the Burgundian tradition of vineyard classification (which is the new German wine law today since January 2020), as well as their decision to convert to biodynamic production methods was a revolutionary move in Germany.
Joel Payne sums it up nicely: “In this discipline (dry Riesling), this estate has essentially no rival in all of Germany. In fact, given their sheer vineyard potential–they’re capable of producing nine grand crus and an equal number of premier crus in any given vintage–this may well be the best and most consistent producer of great dry Riesling in the world.” Joel B. Payne, Vinous, January 2013.
01.15 pm Wine-pairing Lunch with Chef/Owner Swen and Sommeliere/Owner Sybille Bultmann at Restaurant Atable im Amtshaus (bib gourmand Michelin / 16 points Gault Millau) in Freinsheim, Pfalz
The Amtshaus sits in a great location in the old town of Freinsheim, surrounded by the city wall. The inner courtyard with its idyllic terrace leads to the chic restaurant, which has a white cross vault supported by columns. Ambitious, seasonally inspired cuisine made from top-notch ingredients is served.
The owners, Swen and Sybille
Bultmann are well known in the German culinary and wine scene. Swen is a
top chef and I would not be surprised to see one Michelin star at the
door in the future. Sybille is one of Germany’s highly decorated
sommelièrs.
04.00 pm Tasting with Anne and Matthias Gaul at Weingut Matthias Gaul in
Grünstadt-Asselheim, Pfalz
The
stop at Weingut Gaul was our last visit of a winemaker on the tour. It
was a lovely tasting in the courtyard of Weingut Gaul with Anne and
Matthias Gaul.
Weingut Gaul
Owner and winemaker
Matthias Gaul is the fourth generation at the helm of this wine estate.
He farms 85 acres of vineyards in the northern tip of the Pfalz region
close to the border with the Rheinhessen wine region. The plantings in
his vineyards are equally divided between white and red grapes. His
focus is on Burgundy grapes. They find ideal conditions in the limestone
marl vineyards. Matthias looks ahead in a visionary way, plants vines
at 300 meters above sea level, plants a vineyard with a narrow spacing
between the rows following the Burgundy model, and lets lavender bloom
in Asselheim. The somewhat cooler climate due to the higher altitude
vineyards gives the wines lively
minerality and beautiful fruit. Matthias says: “We spend a lot of time
tending to our vines. That means consistent manual work. Only by being
close to nature can we understand the plant and its soil.”
07.00 pm Check-in at Hotel Hilton in Mainz
08.00 pm Supper and Wines at Weinstube Schreiner in Mainz
09.30 am Breakfast
10.00 am Discover Mainz: A walking sightseeing tour through Mainz.
Guided by a true expert, we walked through historic Mainz. You literally walk on ruins from Roman times. Every time when renovating, building, etc, construction workers stumble on Roman artifacts buried under layers of past century buildings. Mainz is also the birthplace of Johannes Gutenberg, the man who gave the world the power to print and ultimately to develop our digital future.
1:00 pm Lunch at the Mainz Cathedral
The city tour ended at the 1000 years old Cathedral of Mainz, where we had lunch.
Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: All Postings
Summary: Germany-South and Alsace Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
The Sun-Kissed South: Germany’s Pinot Noir, the Other Whites, the Culinary Regions - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Daniel Wagner at Weingut Wagner-Stempel (VDP) in Siefersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Helmut Dönnhoff and Sascha Johannes Schömel at Weingut Dönnhoff (VDP) in Oberhausen, Nahe - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany
Dinner in a Typical Old Town Mainz Wine Tavern: At Weinhaus Bluhm and at Weinhaus Schreiner - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Cellar
Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Owner/ Winemaker Gesine Roll at
Weingut Weedenborn Weedenborn in Monzenheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South
and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Weingut Jülg (VDP): Lunch in the Wine Tavern with Karin and Werner Jülg and Tasting in the Vineyard with Johannes Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Sven Nieger at Weingut Sven Nieger in Baden-Baden-Varnholt, Ortenau - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Waldgasthaus Scherrhof - Deep in the Black Forest, Local Badenser Cuisine at its Best - Germany-South and
Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner/ Winemaker Robert Schätzle at Weingut Schloss Neuweier (VDP) in Baden-Baden-Neuweier, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Martin Bercher at Weingut Bercher (VDP) in Burkheim, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Matthias Höfflin and Kaylie Magestro at Weingut Höfflin in Bötzingen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting in the Courtyard with Joachim Heger and Winemaker Markus Mleinek at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
The World Class Wines of Alsace
In the world class white wine region Alsace
Tour of the Newly Constructed Winery with Pierre Gassmann and Tasting (with Wine Journalist Yves Beck) at Domaine Rolly-Gassmann in Rorschwihr, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Guided Tour of Château du Haut-Kœnigsburg in Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner at Restaurant La Veille Forge (Bib Gourmand Michelin) in Kaysersberg, Alsace, with Chef Laurine Gutleben and Restaurant Manager/ Husband Antoine Bauer, both Owners - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Dirler at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Frédéric Hugel at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Touring Riquewihr/ Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Owners Catherine Faller and Eddy Leiber-Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace
Wine-pairing Dinner with Owner/ Chef Jean-Michel Eblin at 1-star Michelin Restaurant Le Maximilien in Zellenberg, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Adrien Schoenheitz at Vins Schoenheitz in Wihr-au-Val, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch in Wihr-au-Val/Alsace at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant La Nouvelle Auberge, with Chef Bernard Leray, Directeur de Salle Martine Leray and Sommelière Charlotte Leray - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Rémy Gresser at Domaine Rémy Gresser in Andlau, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Hans Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP), Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant 1832 at the Hambacher Schloss in Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, Pfalz -
Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting
in the Courtyard and Cellar Tour with Frank John at Weingut Frank John in Neustadt an der Weinstraße, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy
WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting with Andreas Rings at Weingut Rings (VDP) in Freinsheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze and Riccardo Korner at Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf (VDP) in Wachenheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Impromptu Tasting at Weinbar & Vinothek Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf in Deidsheim, with Managing Director Steffen Brahner - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Wine-Pairing Lunch with Chef/Owner Swen and Sommeliere/Owner Sybille Bultmann at Restaurant Atable im Amtshaus (bib gourmand Michelin / 16 points Gault Millau) in Freinsheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Anne and Matthias Gaul at Weingut Matthias Gaul in Grünstadt-Asselheim, Pfalz - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
Mainz: Dinner, City Tour and Lunch - Germany-South and Alsace 2022 by ombiasy WineTours
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