Red and White Grape Varieties in Germany - Trends (September 2023)
The Association of American Wine Economists, of which I am a member, published 3 most interesting charts concerning the structur of German wine over the past 30 to 60 years.
In terms of the mix between white and red grape varieties, up to the turn of the century, Germany as the share of red grape varities was increasing rapidly, reaching almost 40 percent of total output. This development, however, has stopped and in the last 20 years the share of red grape varieties in the total is falling again, although only very slowly.
Today, red grape varieties account for about 35 percent and white grape varieties to about 45 percent of total production.
Within this overall trend, Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) is the most important red grape variety in Germany. It has increased from hectars 2.000 to hectar 12.000 in the past 60 years. Germany has become the #3 producer of Pinot Noir in the world, after France and the USA.
Dornfelder was also on the rise, but has started to decline in 2010, reflecting the shift to premium and ultra-premium red wine production. The other rising red grape variety is Lemberger/ Blaufränkisch, but its production is limited to Württemberg.
On the white wine side, the dominat grape variety is Riesling, accounting for a large part of the total and growing. Müller-Thurgau and Silvaner, both important white grape varieties in the 1960s, are rapidly loosing their weight. While decling overall, in Franken, Silvaner continues to be on the rise, as Silvaner is increasingly becoming the signature grape variety of Franken. The other grape varieties to watch are Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder) and Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) both displyaing steady growth for the last 30 years. Germany is now the #1 producer for Weissburgunder and the #2 producer for Grauburgunder in the world.
Until the early 20th century, Elbling was Germany's most planted
variety, after which it was eclipsed by Silvaner during the middle of
the 20th century. After a few decades in the top spot, in the late 1960s Silvaner was
overtaken by the high-yielding Müller-Thurgau, which in turn started to
lose ground in the 1980s. From the mid-1990s, Riesling became the most
planted variety.
Nicolas Quillé (MW): Overview of German Wine - Regions, Grape Varieties and New Labeling Rules
...German vineyards are planted with 2/3 white grapes and 1/3 reds grapes
but be aware that there is a strong movement towards more red grapes,
and especially Pinot Noir. Germany is the home of the Riesling grape
(35% of global production) and it accounts for
24% of all German plantings. The other
varieties that Germany can claim global leadership include Pinot Blanc
(Weissburgunder), Muller Thurgau, and Silvaner. Other quintessential
northern European varieties planted in Germany
includes Pinot Gris (Grauerburgunder), Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder),
Trollinger (aka Schiava Grossa) & Lemberger. Germany has an historical interest in grape hybridization (many developed
domestically) and among the most popular
are red grapes that were planted because of their high yields during
cooler times such as Dornfelder (complex cross of Pinot Noir,
Trollinger, Blaufrankish: dark and floral), as well as
productive white crosses such as Muller Thurgau (Riesling x Madeleine
Royale), Bacchus (Silvaner, Riesling, Muller) and Scheurebe. Finally, a
few French international varieties are starting also to be planted such
as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot.
Of all German wines, it is Riesling that captures the attention. Its
great versatility allows for the making of different wine styles, from
dry to sweet, from still to sparkling. Riesling’s intense aromatic
(citrus, jasmine) and polarizing balance of high acid
and residual sugars create some of the most exquisite wines in the
world: There cannot be a serious German wine tasting without a Riesling!...
Announcement: Exciting ombiasy Wine Tours in 2023
ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North
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